My wife and I are considering a trip to Egypt in November, not certain yet but leaning that way.
Our interest is in seeing the antiquities, and we enjoy slow travel. By that we typically stay a minimum of 3 full days at one location before moving on, often longer, in order to minimize time spent in transit. In some cases this means skipping some famous locations altogether. Here is the outline of our preliminary itinerary:
- Fly to Cairo, transfer to hotel near Giza pyramids. We prefer to stay there rather than central Cairo.
- Spend 4 nights in this hotel. Tour Giza pyramids, Saqqara, Dahshur, perhaps Egyptian Museum.
- Drive to Bahariya Oasis in Western Desert, spend one night. Continue on to Farafa Oasis for a camel trek in Great Sand Sea. Trek concludes in Dakhla Oasis.
- Drive to Luxor (which is now closer than Cairo).
- Three nights in Luxor, tour TBD selected sights.
- Five night Nile Dahabeya cruise to Aswan.
- Fly to Cairo, one night near airport, fly home.
Feedback welcome. Thanks.
Egypt Itinerary Critique
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Some people do prefer to be out in Giza near the pyramids, but before you come, consider that the pyramids are located in what would be considered (in any other city) the ghetto area. The only nice things about this area are the Giza Pyramids themselves (and some people would debate that fact in that they are overrun with touts that will tell you just about anything to get you to part with your cash), the Mena House Hotel and the Meridian Hotel. If you stay at one of these two hotels you pretty much need to stay within the walls of them to enjoy yourself. That means every meal needs to be taken inside the hotel, OR you need to pay for transport to get to the few decent restaurants out in that area or come into the city.
Alternatively, I highly recommend considering the area of Zamalek. It is by far the nicest area for tourists in Cairo. It is the area where about 70%+ of the worlds embassies have chosen to locate, making it very secure and very International. It is an old area on an island in the Nile (with lots of bridges over to it from the Cairo side and Giza side) which I also often refer to as the Cultural Center of Cairo. It has the Opera House, Art Galleries, loads of restaurants, bars, cultural centers and shops. You can walk the whole area safely and there are hotels of every star level there to choose from. If, as you say, you want to spend a few days in one location, this is much better for being centrally located to do and see more with a *lot less transport time. If you want a view of the pyramids, pray for good weather and ask for a room on a high floor of the Gizera Tower at the Marriott..facing south.
*every time you want to do something other than look at pyramids, you will have a 60 min car ride into town and another 60 min back to your hotel.
Just my opinion for a better location in Cairo.
Thanks very much for that advice, Casual_Cairo. I was hoping to hear from you!
OK, will definitely take that into consideration. My wife really wants to see the pyramids, and we thought staying out there would be satisfy that. But I hear what you are saying.
The rest of the itinerary looks decent to you?
I am not really an expert on what is going on out in the desert these days. I don't have contacts for that like I used to. All I know is that some oil company Americans have been told NOT TO GO TO THE DESERT due to security issues. They are often overly cautious, but I can't say one way or the other if they are being that way this time. I'd say do your research on the desert portion of this trip and find a company you like to take you if you will move forward with this bit.
)
Also check and make sure the Dahabayia sails from Luxor to Aswan. I think you may end up being towed the whole way since you will be going against the current. I may be wrong, but make sure you know what to expect so you aren't disappointed once on the boat - since you pay premium prices for Dahabayias. If there is no wind, it could be disappointing. (I was in Luxor last week. There were 3 Dahabayias tied up on the west bank that I could see. I heard one of them was the one that Kent Weeks owns.
Thanks for your reply.
The camel trek is actually the whole reason for the trip. For many years my wife has wanted to go on a long camel trek in the desert. Don't ask me why, perhaps a deeply buried Bedouin gene hidden behind blonde hair and blue eyes.
I have read some relatively recent desert trip reports. In virtually all cases people say it was a highlight of the trip. There are some stories of driving in convoys, or having guards in the vehicles but nowhere any issues that I've found. I check Lonely Planet and TripAdvisor forums, as well as general web searches. When we first started think of this trip some years some years ago we were looking at Sinai, but then Jan, 2011 happened and now Sinai seems off limits except for the coast.
Here is the trip we are considering, slightly customized to continue to Luxor at the end rather than returning to Cairo.
http://www.selectegypt.com/safari-tours-in-egypt/camel-trekking-siwa-oasis-egypt.html
And the Dahabiya cruise.
http://www.selectegypt.com/dahabiya-cruises.html
I did wonder why they were going upstream. One Dahabiya page I found says says: "Engines will only be used if wind is insufficient to sail ...", so maybe that’s the answer. But I will inquire.
Confess I had to look up Kent Weeks, so that is funny if he was stranded! Coincidentally last week I happened to check the Great Courses website and their History of Ancient Egypt series was on the 70% sale, plus another 10% online coupon so I bought a copy. Weeks might be mentioned in the series.
http://www.thegreatcourses.com/tgc/courses/course_detail.aspx?cid=350
We are concerned about the general situation there (perhaps you saw my other posting here), especially reading things like Tom Friedman’s column today in the NY Times or Dan Murphy’s in the CSM, makes it sound like the place is about to fall apart. So we’ll see.
Anyway, thanks so much for your time, really appreciate it.
The Great Courses series is indeed great. Prof. Bob wears the same outfit/uniform pretty much the whole way through and by the end you will have some of his stock phrases and pauses memorized. You will like the series.
As to hotel, I agree with Casual, At different points, I've stayed at Le Meridien Pyramids and the Cairo Marriott. I would definitely choose the Marriott over Le Meridien from a tourist location standpoint. We walked to a couple good restaurants close to the Marriott. The last time I was at the Marriott was summer 2010 and I know restaurants are notorious for changing, so more current info is important.
Favor, thanks for the info. If we do the trip then we'll look into Zamalek instead of Giza, as you guys suggest.
Looking forward to the Great Courses Egypt series. We have been using them before traveling to a destination for about 5 years now. They always add to our enjoyment of the trip. We also watch them just for fun and education. Great indeed, there's only been one that we were lukewarm about.
Hello Nelson. The western desert is safe with no problems there. I'm planning for a trip next May to tour the oasis area. I know a friend there and he says things are ok.
I hope you enjoy your trip.
Thanks Wella_f1. We are excited about doing this trip, but are a bit concerned with the situation in Egypt. Hard to say what will happen in 8 months, but we are still very interested and doing research. From what I've read it's possible the desert will be the highlight of the trip for us.
Regards from Colorado, USA.
The night sky will leave you speechless all by itself.
No doubt! In fact we are planning the trip so our time in the desert is around the new moon.
On new moon nights the stars come right down to the sand and seem as close as the next dune over. You can see satellites plod across the sky and lots of shooting stars. It really is an incredible sight. The pictures you'll bring back will only be a suggestion to your family and friends of what you'll have seen.
Dear Nelson
I have read you tour and I hope you enjoy it 8 month its too early to let you know will be ok in Egypt or not no body know but we hope it will be ok for the desert will be nice you will enjoy it and you will enjoy the camel too 3 nights in Cairo its ok fair enough then one night in Bahiray its ok too then Farfra one night is fine but you need to visit the white desert you will enjoy alot Dakhala one night is ok but you need to stay in Kharga one night before you go to Luxor its about 5 hours drive stay three nights in Luxor then you will go by Dahabia will you join other people on Dahabia or will you have a private one hope this will help you while you search for your tour shold you need anything just send your request
Thanks vacationstogo. I can add one more night after our camel trek. We can use that to move on to Kharga. I see the drive from Dakhala to Luxor is at least 7 hours according to Google. That might be too long for one day.
Our Dahabia is not private. It could be a small group.
Thanks for the info.
I also suggest staying in the city of Cairo and at the Marriott. Other than the Giza pyramids the area is not much to see. 1 night at the Mena house would be enough for me. We used Lady Egypt for a private tour (2 of us) and were thrilled with them. I've posted a trip report too. We had a fabulous trip!
Tuni01, thanks much for the info. Based on what Casual_Cairo told us above we decided that staying at Giza was a bad idea and that Zamalek was better. I just checked and that's where the Marriott is located. Our plan is now to stay somewhere around there.
I read your report and it was great.
The best hotels in the area are as follows:
5 star - Cairo Marriott http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/caieg-cairo-marriott-hotel-and-omar-khayyam-casino/
3 star - Longchamps Hotel http://hotellongchamps.com/
Hostel type - Mayfair Hotel http://www.mayfaircairo.com/
This list covers all budget ranges and all 3 hotels are some of the best in the city in their catagory. Being located on the island and in Zamalek makes them top notch!
Thanks once again Casual. To be honest we don't often stay in 5* hotels and not just because of the price, but we'll check things out.
Appreciated.
We are getting our flights booked! Now this is the proposed itinerary:
1 Arrive Cairo (Zamalek)
2 Cairo (Zamalek)
3 Cairo (Zamalek)
4 Cairo (Zamalek)
5 Drive to Oasis Bahariya (~5 hours) (Bahariya)
6 Camel Trek: Draa Mariam (Camp 1)
7 Camel Trek: Bir Dakar spring (Camp 2)
8 Camel Trek: Ghard Abu Muharrak (Camp 3)
9 Camel Trek: Sabaa Russ (Camp 4)
10 Camel Trek: Sukkak (Camp 5)
11 Camel Trek: Harrafish (Camp 6)
12 Camel Trek: El Ghard El Malfuf (Camp 7)
13 Camel Trek: El Selim (Camp 8)
14 Camel Trek: El Qasr (Dakhla)
15 Drive to Kharga (~2-3 hours) (Kharga)
16 Drive to Luxor (~5 hours) (Luxor)
17 Luxor (Luxor)
18 Luxor (Luxor)
19 Luxor (Luxor)
20 Nile Dahabiya: Esna-el Hegz Island (Cruise 1)
21 Nile Dahabiya: Edfu Temple (Cruise 2)
22 Nile Dahabiya: Gabal el silsilah (Cruise 3)
23 Nile Dahabiya: Kom Ombo, Kopania (Cruise 4)
24 Nile Dahabiya: Aswan (Cruise 5)
25 Aswan (Aswan)
26 Fly to Cairo (Cairo Near Airport)
27 Fly home
We think it will work for us. Open to suggestions of course, and thanks for the previous advice.
If you don't want or need 5 star - my recommendation for Cairo is the Longchamps. I feel this hotel is far and away the BEST value in Cairo.
In Luxor, I like the St. Josephs for the price. It is across the street from the Sonesta and offers good views of the West Bank from all rooms 4th flr and up.
Thanks Debbie. The Longchamps is like places we typically stay - more local than chain feeling, so that looks great. It's not listed on the Select Egypt website as one of their hotels, but neither was the Steigenberger which she offered to us at no upgrade cost from a 3* in Luxor.
Luxor is when we'll be coming off the camel trek, so some 5* pampering might be in order!
Still waiting to hear back from Select Egypt since we've given then our slightly revised itinerary. I'm sure things will work out.
Casual cairo: Jumping into your thread here--sorry. The mariott looks booked. We are thinking of the fairmont Nile hotel. Looks very nice and has fab reviews--even better than the Mariott which we were also recommended by friends there. Is that neighborhood where the Fairmont is a problem? Is it close enough to the Zamalek area? It looks like it on a map.We will be traveling with kids. Thanks much-
The Fairmont is a lovely hotel, but not nearly as good for walking around the hotel. It is built next to a ghetto area. The hotel is fab though, if you think you'll be happy eating all your meals *at the hotel. The BIG advantage of anything on the island where Zamalek is, is that it is all so safe and walkable with zillions of good restaurants, galleries, bars, cultural centers and some shopping available. The river is between Zamalek and the Fairmont, unfortunately, and it is not an easy walk from the Fairmot over to the good side where the Marriott is.
The other hotels that are in Zamalek, if you need 5 star are the Hilton Residence in Zamalek, and a bit further away (and not as well placed) are the Novotel and the Sofitel. Neither of those would be my first choice for location, but they are both better than the Fairmont location.
* I said that you have to eat all your meals at the hotel - I should clarify that there is a smallish mall attached to the hotel there that surely has some restaurants, coffee shops and maybe even fast food in it that would be available much of the time.
I still think the Marriott is MORE kid friendly than the Fairmont. The Fairmont has little to no outdoor areas for them to run and play. The Marriott has tennis courts, and a garden area. They both have pools. The pool at the Fairmont is on the roof.
If you're looking for more local flavour in your stay I suggest you spend a few hours in Islamic Cairo. You can start by Sultan Hassan Mosque & Ibn Toloun (You can see Cairo Skyline from the Minaret which is kinda cool). You can then take a cab to Azhar, see Al Azhar mosque, Al hussein mosque, Khan Al Khalili ( a local antique market) , Al Moez street (a street full of historic mosques, schools and houses) and maybe have Lunch at a local "feteer" place (It's not Pizza or a pie...but it's somehow related) or have a drink in a local cafe (Ahwa) like El Fishawy.
I think you shouldn't skip the Egyptian museum but you have to check how Tahrir square is going to be like by then due to security issues.
FYI marwamorgan - if you are thinking about the local Egyptian Pizza restaurant on the road into the Khan just off Al Azhar St, it is closed up. Sad but true.
Thanks Casual: our agent still said she thought it was OK, but she has now left us hanging for 5 days while she is out of town--just when i am trying to finalize eveything and pay. We leave in 2 weeks and I am not a happy camper. So I may just book Mariott myself --she originally said they would not do a triple, but the rooms online have 2 doubles and i would guess 2 kids could sleep in one bed! [2 rooms of course.]Anyway, my only issue now is do I try to book the SOnesta cruise on my own? They have promos on their site but I assumed my agent got better deals. Thoughts on the whole cruise thing? Thanks much-
I can't say if your agent is getting a better deal on the cruise than you can get. I like the Sonesta people and their boats were nice when I visited them.
Who knows what your agent will do for you now that you are taking her hotel commission away from her though - she might try to make it up on the cruise alone. I don't know. I think the Marriott would be fine. In a double room there are two large beds, so if the kids are young I would think they would be OK, but probably best to call and find out what they say.
Also curious where and who your agent is that says the Fairmont was "still OK". Curious if she has ever been to Egypt and if she knows where the Fairmont is. To be clear, it is OK, but not nearly as OK as the Marriott.
Hi again: she is with Lady Egypt and lives there. It's the Fairmont Nile City--I think there are other Fairmonts so is this the one you are concerned about? I do see that the Zamalek area is the best to wander around in but it looks like the Mariott is booked mar 30 as it is easter weekend. You can see why I am stressing. I may do the Hilton Zamalek.Do the major hotels do Cairo/Giza tours that aren't super pricey? By the way: The sonesta wants to charge 2800$ for the 4nites for our family of 5. Seems high. Ahhhhh. What do you think? THANKS!!!!!
I would imagine that with the tourism numbers being lower than normal that you should be able to get a good rate with any agent in Egypt. I would second what CC says about the Marriott in Zamalek, real nice hotel, really good service too. but probably pricier than the fairmont which is prob why your agent is steering you towards that as maybe they get a deal with them that they dont get at the marriott??
I know the sonesta boats as have used them before myself and they are really good boats, but again pricey, and prob because of the easter time. They don't seem to bring their rates down on the sonesta cos they are more elite - ish, IMO but this close to arrival you might get a much better deal as they will be trying to fill up their rooms in the hotels and cabins on the boats.
if you are waiting 5 days for your agent to get back to you cos she is out of town then I would check out some others cos they can't be that busy that they can afford to leave you hanging for 5 days! Try the one we use www.egyptqualitytours.com they have always been fast to respond when we've used them and they got us the marriott and the sonesta before and we got good prices off them too.
worth a try, unless you already fixed it out with Lady Egypt?
Thanks much. Still working through the whole thing, believe it or not!! May stay in the Hilton Zamalek now as the Mariott is booked. It is Easter weekend. Ahhhh. Am hoping everything is straightened out by Sunday, inshallah. Will post when I know what'going on, thanks!
Sorry I wasn't around for comment. I was in Istanbul!

Some Comments though -
1 - Yes, did not know you wanted to travel over Easter week. That will cause less availability and higher prices. It's common.
2 - I think the Hilton is a better option than the Fairmont, and yes, I know what Fairmont you are talking about. The only other one in Cairo is in Heliopolis. If you will have time to get out and walk around Zamalek while you are here, stay on the island. If you won't have time to leave your hotel except on tours, then stay at the Fairmont.
3 - What tour are you looking at that you need to be NOT super pricey? If there are 5 of you...contact me for Gosh Sakes. NOW I'll probably be kicked off the board for saying that, but with 5 of you, I'm the best!
4 - scotsgirl - you said "you might get a much better deal as they will be trying to fill up their rooms in the hotels and cabins on the boats"..... I have to say LOL. That is such a western LOGICAL way to think about doing business, and in general has NOTHING to do with the way they do business here. The people making these decisions get nothing more if the rooms sell, and they have been told to sell it at "this" rate, so that is the rate they sell it at. Remember - Egypt = Logic Free Zone....and never more before than now.
Hi again:
Thanks for all your advice and tips. Much appreciated! AFter much thought, I think I will be going forward with LEgypt afterall. I did so much research and planning on my own I could definately do it on our own, however, I am so done with it all --tired of the emails and prices and tour companies all offering a different price, and worried I have too many moving parts and I just want someone else to worry about the details on the ground. I did book our own hotel rooms at the Mariott--got in despite the Easter holidays. Am excited to walk around Zamalek as we will have dinners on our own. LE will cover the Nile cruise and internal flights and Cairo tours. I am hoping all goes well and will post a report when we come back in a few weeks. Thanks again--Shukran!