Has anyone been to Gabon in the last year? I'd appreciate any info.
thanks
Info on Gabon
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Good luck. Gabon is near the top of my Africa shortlist, and I have never seen an informative post about Gabon on this forum. The Bradt Guide, which also covers Sao Tome, is excellent.
Thanks. I've found a couple of operators but could do with some feedback as to where to go and practicalities etc. It looks beautiful...
Thit Cho,
If you won't snorkel with the Belugas in Churchill for me and report back, the least you can do is get over to Gabon and let us all know about that destination.
Looking at Gabon for 2008. Anyone have any experience with ExploreAfrica? Very interesting sample itinerary-gorilla rehab, elephants on the beach?
I don't know ExploreAfrica but you can book directly with Operation Loango who are the main operator out there.
They offer a number of sample tours or will do tailormade.
www.operation-loango.com
Operation Loango looks interesting also. Wish we could get some general feedback on travel in Gabon.
Sundowner Wildlife Holidays (www.sundowner.nl) is a Dutch touroperator specialised in wildlife holidays worldwide. Gabon and the Islands Sao Tome e Pricnipe are some of of our destinations.
We offer taylor made trips to Loango, Lope and Ivindo National Park. The latter is the park where Michael Fay discovered the "Langoue Bai" in 1994 during his Megatransect (look at www.nationalgeographic.com). A bay is a clearing in the rainforest and in the right season (june - august) one has about 85% chance on a three day visit to see the western lowland gorilla.
Elephants, buffaloes and hippos on the beach is in the wet season form october - march.
We use Operation Loango but as a touroperator we can offer clients more favorable rates than booking directly.
Our website is in Dutch but you can ask all questions about Gabon and book all trips through us.
Do sent us an email at info@sundowner.nl
Loriaux,
Don't know how the last response works with the advertising policy. But a first hand source of information is helpful and we can evaluate that source knowing it is an agent. Maybe just toning down the pitch would make such a post ok.
Loriaux, I am assuming you work for the company and are not just posting information you found from its website. Correct me if I am wrong.
So, if 3 nights results in an 85% chance of seeing lowland gorillas, then 5 nights would greatly increase the odds. Is there any reason not to stay 5 nights or even 6? There must be other cool stuff to see in addition to the lowland gorillas. Maybe cost is the answer.
Also wouldn't it make a difference when you went as to whether the odds were 85% in 3 days?
Could you place some typical 14-day and 18-day itineraries here on the board for us to see?
Thank you.
I met Cherri, the woman who runs Explore Africa, in Hwange last year. Fascinating woman with lots of stories and adventures. Very nice and knowledgable.
I went to Gabon last summer. I loved it but it certainly had its challenges. I used IExplore but ultimately Mistral Voyages was the Gabonese agency. They did what they said and were efficient, however, tourism is undeveloped and if you want to stray from the itinerary, it is "Can't Do." In my case I wanted to extend my trip a few days and it was just one "not possible" after another. I would try Operation Loango. The folks I met that used them were pleased and felt they were very much trying to please their clients and if it were at all possible, they would give it a go. They have their own transport (light aircraft,etc)...so they can arrange outside of Loango to Ivindo and Lope as well.
I was "unlucky" at Langouie Bai because I saw no gorillas in a three night stay, even once spending the night in the hide, however, "unlucky" is a relative term. The Forest is an Eden. Very remote. Quite magical. We saw many long tusked forest elephants, monkeys, etc...It is an incredible place. I had to be content that it was truly nature at its best...a fruiting tree may have diverted a gorilla group for a day or two. Much to my chagrin, a spanish couple I met saw 35 gorillas in their stay, the week prior including a family group that crossed the road on the trip back to Ivindo Station. Must be in good enough shape to hike a few hours as to get to the bai, there is quite a walk. Porters can be hired for your luggage though. Accomodations are celan and neat. Nothing special---very much more a research camp than a luxury safari camp. I highly recommend it, gorillas or not. Another interesting point is that many of the gorillas have some sort of skin desease that can disfigure their face. They are very susceptible to these kind of deseases.
I was able to visit Kongo Falls as well. That was a great adventre but required quite an unusual travel schedule. It is in the same park (Ivindo) bu it is not connected with Langouie Bai. I had to travel by train back to Libreville and fly out to Makoukou. A three hour pirougue trip through the rapids was incredible. The extensive complex of falls was mine alone for three nights! There were three guides along as well. We explored the falls and took hikes in the forest. Although I could not find much info about them (initially I was told the camp was not complete...in fact, an italian now working in Lope had finished the camp for several years---so communication is definitely not consistent or complete)Kongou Falls is another spot where you may find troops of Mandrills...we just missed them but could hear their calls and movements in the forest. My thought is that "maybe" you can see them in Lope better but even there, your chances are not real high...this setting is absolutely incredible and I would highly recommend Kongou...a GREAT experience and certainly a highlight....Langouei Bai though is also great. Accomodations here are more basic than Langouie but they are chalet-like---just a bit damp, like the forest. One night I was able to sleep on the crude platform right next to the roaring falls...moonlit, the stars and then sunrise...is unfotrgettable. Also stalked forest elephants near the falls on foot...the guides were VERY skittish of these animals but it was thrilling.
Stayed a few nights at a beach camp near Libreville which was pleasant and relaxing...but I missed out on Loango. I would like to go back to catch that park. Do not expect to see hippos cavorting in the ocean as I think that is common a certain time of year and even then rare. Same with elephants on the beach...possible but not real likely. What I heard from the spanish couple that had been in Loango was INCREDIBLE whale watching opportunities. They wre treated toi hours of males leaping about, breaching to impress the females...very close and the pics were spectacular...involves many attempts to leave the lagoon on the zodiak as there is a difficult area to get through with the waves coming in...sometimes the weather prevents the crew from being able to go out to sea for the whale viewing. Also, good photo opportunities at the gorilla rehab on some island in Loango. They enjoyed that very much. Great fishing too with enormous Tarpon in the south of the park...I would certainly go back and I hope to go back and visit Loango since I missed it the first time. hope this helps everyone.
Thanks for the report Gator, I've been anxious to see a firsthand account. It sounds fantastic, I definitely hope to visit before it becomes a more fully developed tourist destination.
I'll e-mail you a link to some photo high-lights. I'd be glad to e-mail the link to others.
i could post it but don't know how to link to kodakgallery albums without sending it to an e-mail address. Be glad to offer my opinion and some "lessons learned"...I did love it and would go back. It wouldn't be everyone's trip and prob not for first time to Africa visitors but folks should go knowing a few things in advance to adjust their expectations.
This is certainly a good thread to keep going. I am headed to Gabon in 2008 to do some photography from hides. Should be a great time. I will report back at that point, as well.
GatoratLarge, Thanks so much for your account of a fascinating place.
gator, please email the link to your photos. would love to see them.
Thanks much!
I think I figured out how to do this:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?mode=fromshare&Uc=965um1h.65tf37l9&Uy=3ghuos&Ux=0
If that doesn't work---I'd be glad to e-mail the link...my pictures will give you a good feel...gosh, I wish I could send some of the pics others took. One Swedish guy stayed longer at Langouie Bai and his patience paid off when he got pics of a gorilla and a forest elephant. Eventually the elephant chased the gorilla off. But such as mine are...see the above link.
Not to hog this thread, but to answer a question above...If I had to do it over again I would try to stay four nights in Langouie Bai rather than three...your first night you don't go to the bai as it's a good hike from the research station. it goes something like this...you take the TransGabonese train through the night and are deposited at the Wildlife office in Ivindo Station very early in the morning. After a bit of breakfast you pack up and take a couple hour drive over largely dirt/mud roads til the end of the line...then you hike a couple/few hours to the research station where you stay. You don't arrive until early afternoon and the group that is already at camp has left for the bai that morning. It takes another hour and a half to get to the bai on foot. So you take a short hike to some nearby falls. That's a long way of saying you lose your first day. But then you have two full days at the Bai with the option on spending the night in the Hide...great experience. I wish I had one more night but the Bai is the main attraction and you can't wander much. You'd really have to be a "true believer" to stay much more because you will mostly stay in the blind the great majority of the time although there is another blind closer to a favorite forest elephant spot to try. I missed out on the gorillas but as I said, the week before, one couple saw 35 in their three day stay---needless to say I was jealous as heck! the Swede stayed five days and saw only one but got some great gorilla/elephant shots in the same frame.
looks like an incredibly beautiful place! the people too. sorry you didn't see the gorillas but what an adventure you had. definitely moving Gabon up on my list. Thanks for the photos and report!
Gatoratlarge, thanks for interesting feedback. I am interested to know how you arranged your trip.
Thanks for sharing the link to the photos. As I said in the first response above, Gabon is on my shortlist.
Thnaks y'all. I arranged through IExplore which is Chicago based. They worked through Mistral Voyage a Gabonese agency. My contact was great but response from Gabon was tough. I thought i might explore other options (Discovery Initiatives) but they were working with the same Gabonese group and were having the same communication troubles. It is definitely not very developed in tourism yet and they eventually got to my trip and were able to arrange two of the three things I wanted to see in Gabon (Kongou Falls and Langouie Bai). If I had to do it over again, I might try to use Operation Loango for all my arrangements. An American group of three used them and so did the spanish couple I met. Both had great things to say and were quite pleased. I have no real complaints but I wanted to change things and as I said, there was no flexibility. The fact they are a major operator and have their own transportation fleet is key. I was pleased with IExplore and they were doing their best...some things were just out of their hands. Gabon is not cheap by the way...tourist standards are not the same as other parts of Africa but it is very unique (the country).
Enjoyed your photos Gator. Thank you for posting them and also your first hand experience. I see why they call it "the Last Eden".
Gatoratlarge -
If you happen to check this post, have a few questions for you:
It doesn't sound like you went mandrill tracking at Lope - but I was curious as to whether you met anyone that did, and if so, what they said about it?
Also, did you meet anyone that went to Evengue, the gorilla sanctuary? Was wondering if it was worth a stop.
Finally, where did you stay in Libreville? (If you happened to stay in a budget place that was OK, I'd love to know the name...I have the Bradt guide but it's hard finding anything out firsthand about places.)
Thanks!
Just out of interest how far is the hide at Langoue Bai from the animals in your shots, what lens were you using?
I did not get to spend any time in Lope but there is mandrill research going on there. What I gathered is that it is harder to see them than I thought---the large troops that gather together "more than 1,000 strong" make it seem that you would almost be guaranteed a sighting. I don't think this is the case. Getting a good guide is essential and a bit of a problem in Lope too...apparently they've had trouble keeping good guides and you want to avoid getting a local "guide" that wants to get in, get out with a tip...I just heard mixed things about Lope is what I'm trying to say.
The Kongou Falls trip was probably my favorite part and we nearly caught sight of a mandrill troop----the Italian guy that set the camp up told me that they had habituated them to a certain degree there.
I stayed some at the Tropicana in Libreville which is a basic African Hotel but has a GREAT restaurant. The food is excellent there and quite the beach scene on Sundays from the locals. I also stayed at the Le Meridien in Libreville for that luxury feel. But I really did enjoy the Tropicana which was very near the airport but a bit far from downtown. Good for relaxing though.
I did not go to Loango either and want to go back to check it out, but a spanish couple I met spent quite a bit of time there. They LOVED the whale watching. They had great pictures from Evengue. They went when few others were present and (probably against the rules) got some pics with a baby gorilla sitting on their head. I think they really like it but there's no reason to spend too much time there. In and out at Evengue would be fine.
E-mail me if you want....be glad to talk more about it---might be easier than typing. i really enjoyed Gabon.
The hide is quite a distance and my camera is fairly old and basic...Olympus maybe 3 or 4 megapixel with a 6x zoom with an optical zoom to 10x I think---unfort I'm not a real camera person...there is another hide that gets a little closer to a favored elephant spot. The high powered lenses make the viewing pretty good from the hide----but photography is a challenge unless you have the professional stuff---I took a couple of the pics through the high powered telescope as you can see from my pics as an experiment.
Gator –
Thanks so much for the info. I am at the very, very initial planning stages, but I can assure you I will have many more questions (I don’t know where to find your email address…but since you are the only one with recent first hand experience in Gabon posting here, I’d love to have it in case you don’t check the boards when I am further along in planning)
Good to hear re Tropicana in Libreville - it was one of the budget places I had marked in my book (Le Meridien sounds great, but since I’m already gagging at the single supplement, I’m looking to cut costs anywhere possible).
I have been corresponding with Operation Loango (extremely responsive and have provided very detailed responses to my questions) and they’ve been very upfront about how “iffy” it is as to whether I’ll be successful w/the mandrills or gorillas, so your comments just confirm that. Hopefully I will be lucky though!
I cannot believe they let a baby gorilla sit on their head! Granted, I had chimps sitting on my shoulders at Ngamba in Uganda, but I had to get a bunch of shots and present medical records before they'd let me have any one on one contact.
I just pulled up some info one agent sent me about Evengue, and it said that "you may have the opportunity to interact with the youngsters." I still can't believe this is safe for the gorillas health without requiring shots, etc like at Ngamba.....
I think you are in good hands with Operation Loango---they seem to be the main thing going in Gabon and as I said in previous posts, have their own transportation so they can make things happen. The tourist infrastructure is not very efficient and I had a good bit of downtime in Libreville because of it. As I've read though and its true, the lack of infrastructure is probably what has preserved the forest for as long as it has. I believe that Op Loango has recently gained the rights to build camps in Ivindo which will be an upgrade to what is there presently. That will add further to their portfolio sort of like Wilderness Safaris in Southern Africa they will be able to provide the full experience all within the same company. I hope to go back sometime soon and see what I missed on my first trip.
The beach scenes in my photos are mostly from in front of the Tropicana. I really liked it. Seems to be a hub for some of the foreign military as it is near the base (French?). I occasionally heard fighter jets scream overhead as their were elections going on in one of the "Congos" when I was there.
Port Gentil looked a bit more interesting than Libreville but I did not get a chance to stay there. Libreville was fine but not particularly interesting. My e-mail addy is jgunter32804@aol.com. I'd be glad to answer more questions but you seem to heading in the right direction. I'm just glad to see a trickle of Americans going because I think it will be good for the wildlife and country.
Thanks very much for your email address - As I get further along in figuring out my trip, you'll be hearing from me!
Linda
Gator
thanks for all of this info. I've continued to research this trip and everything I've discovered seems to be backed up by your experience. I think some of the operators are holding off on Gabon as the infrastructure and reliability of guiding is causing difficulties.
I'm in. I contacted Operation Loango about a trip for next Summer, and have begun sketching something out that combines Gabon with Sao Tome & Principe. It will really depend on whether I can get free tix on Air France.
Awesome---that's how I got there by using a Delta Frequent Flier ticket on AirFrance...they did lose my luggage but hopefully that won't happen to you : ) I had to shop at some "mall" in Libreville to get some jungle clothes...it's surprising how expensive it is in Libreville although insurance gave me some of it back. I think everything is imported to Gabon and therefore its pricey...
Gator - you haven't been to Nouabalé Ndoki Park in the Congo have you? Thought I'd ask.....
that is not encouraging about Air France - they have lost my luggage for 3 of the last 4 flights I've taken with them and I'm already worried about my backpack not showing up in Libreville.
No I havent been to Ndoki----looks like a great park. If I go back to Gabon I hope I can add that in...
We used operation Loango last yr when we went to Gabon... my trip review is post on Virtual Tourist http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/97866/e12/
The best part of our trip was the forest walk with the baby gorilla's
Bumping for Michael. I believe this is the only thread with reports and photos.
Note for everyone that the research station at Ivindo, including visits to Langoue Bai is closed until at least January and I don't believe it can be booked at all until the government finishes a review of the multi-year research that has been taking place there.
Also, Operation Loango is now called Africa's Eden, and they do seem to be the premier operator with the ability to book all the parks as well as Sao Tome and Principe.
Also, this activity calander is somewhat helpful to see the seasons and plan for certain wildlife but it only covers Loango N.P.
www.africas-eden.com/activities/activity_calendar.html
By the way, there's an article on Gabon in the latest African Geographic as well.
Pixel,
Hi! Yes, agree-nice article!!!
Also, the previous issue - cheetah family in Mara.
Cheers
Hari
I am hesitant to post here due to the advertising policy; I am in the tour business. I do apologize if I end up offending anyone. But way back in this thread Nouabale Ndoki NP in ROC is mentioned and no one had yet visited.
Based in Vancouver, Canada, I have been living off and on since last year in Brazzaville, Rep of Congo. I am familiar with Nouabale Ndoki NP (ROC) and Dzanga Ndoki NP (Central African Rep.) The attractions here are pristine rainforest, western lowland gorillas and forest elephants—not unlike Gabon’s, another beautiful place, but far less visited. The star attraction in Nouabale is the habituated group of gorillas under the silverback Kingo; while in Dzanga it is the habituated family of Makumba. Kingo means “voice” btw, while “Makumba” means “speed”. (Kingo was last written up by the NGS in Jan 08.) Whether you see any of the 150 or so gorillas known to forage at NNNP’s Mbeli Bai (a saline forest clearing) comes down to luck and a bit of timing. At certain times of the year the fruit and vegetation which gorillas like are more prevalent. I have seen a few gorillas over a two day period here and up to three families. You are pretty much guaranteed that you will see the habituated gorillas, although you might have to walk two or three hours to get to them. Dzanga Bai in DNNP is the place to see forest elephants, up to 75 in one day is my personal record. Also special at Dzanga Bai is the hundreds of African grey parrots which collect here noisily in the morning.
I join a small group of operators which bring in a limited number of guests each year. These tours are difficult logistically, the rewards tied to their challenges. If you shoot RAW and prefer your travel that way too then you might consider these parks. I haven’t been quite the same since I met Kingo!
Leslie
www.mamatembotours.com
leslienevison@gmail.com
Thanks, PB, this is the thread. I'll read this when I get back to NY -- now off for a day of snorkeling in Grand Cayman.