African Report Mala Mala for 12 nights, May 2007
We flew from Boise Idaho to Minneapolis and Minneapolis to Amsterdam on NWA. We had business class tickets due to the lengthy journey and the fact that I had broken back and wrist in January. The seats on the flight to Amsterdam were not functional and the entertainment centers went out as well. We were a little disappointed, but were able to get instructions from the stewardess on "how to manually" adjust the seats in upright and reclining position. NWA did give us a 25K mileage certificate for our inconvenience. So as one might suspect, I did not sleep on the flight over the Atlantic.
The next leg of the flight from Amsterdam to Johannesburg was on KLM and was very nice, working chairs that had an almost flat bed position, a nice selection of entertainment options and excellent service and foods. We arrived in Johannesburg and were greeted by Yolanda a travel representative arranged by our booking agent. She assisted us across the street to the Intercontinental Sun Hotel and had already checked us in and arranged for someone to assist us to domestic flights on SAA to Mala Mala for the next morning. We had a nice breakfast that morning in hotel and walked over to the domestic flight departures for SAA to Mala Mala. They weighed our two duffle bags together and gave us a tag. The flight was delayed about an hour, so we visited with another couple who happened to be on their way to Mala Mala as well. The husbands discussed cameras. I was able to carry on a laptop computer and small backpack onto the SAA flight. My husband had a camera bag.
We had a smooth flight to Mala Mala and were greeted by the Rattray's (owners of Mala Mala) who happened to be at the lodge that week. We were upgraded to Sable Camp, had lunch and then headed out for the first game drive. Our guide was amazed that we had come for 12 nights with only two duffle bags as luggage. We found that what we had brought was sufficient and were glad that we had not over packed. We took advantage of the daily laundry service as well.
The first few days were pleasant and we had warm weather, reaching 90 F during the days. But as the days past a cold front blew in and the weather turned very cold . We were glad that we had the fleece coats, gloves and scarfs to keep us warm in the open jeeps. For the first 4 or 5 days we were accompanied in our jeep by persons who were staying only a couple of nights. Therefore, we spent the first 4 days rushing around in the jeep trying to see the Big 5. We saw the Big 5 nearly everyday and managed to see the Mala Mala 7 by the 5th day. (Mala Mala 7 includes Big 5 + wild dogs & cheetah).
We saw kudo, waterbuck and nyala near our bungalow at Sable Camp, as well as, baboons. One nite we had roaring lions which lasted until 5AM. There were elephants, duikers and kudo that came up near the swimming pool, during afternoon lunches.
We were fortunate to see some very interesting action: leopards mating, lions mating, 5 lions next to jeep that were charged by a rhinoceros that came out of the reeds, a group of 7 lionesses stalking at night and drinking at the river, wild dogs running, and a young male leopard playing with a porcupine.
We spent the last 5 days at Rattray's and it was a nice change of scenery, a different guide and setting. We enjoyed both camps and even managed to use the gym every other day. Watching elephants while walking on treadmill was quite exciting. We used the internet at Ratrray's that was in our room. The internet at Sable Camp was almost non functional and the one at Main Camp worked but took about 30 minutes to log onto email page. Nearly half of our game drives we were the only two people in the jeep and this gave us an opportunity to pace our drives, allowing for nice viewing and photo shooting of birds and other animals, as well as get to know our guides and trackers.
Each day was a new adventure seeing many large and small mammals, as well as birds and reptiles. Some of the more unusual ones that we saw were: secretary bird, servel (small cat), tortoise, porcupine, puff adder, cameleon, little blue heron, wildebeest, giraffe, zebras, and many more. I even spotted a Baird's owl on morning drive as well as a female cheetah, before the tracker or guide sited them. My husband is still amazed that I saw that owl.
We saw a great variety of lions and leopards and rhinos. The first evening we saw the two Roller coaster Males with two Eyrefield female lionesses, one of which looked pregnant. We encountered one Roller Coaster Male lions on the road another evening. We also encountered the other Roller Coaster Male lion and one of females mating the same day that we sighted his brother with a very full belly sunning near a water hole. We saw 5 Charleston female lions at rivers edge, that scattered when a rhino charged them from the reeds. We saw the 7 styx females one evening devouring a kudo in a matter of seconds. As well as these same females at a water hole the night before. We saw 7 or 8 different leopards and I am not able to site their names: two sisters, grandmother to two sisters & male mating, single female in southern end of reserve stalking impala, young male leopard cub learning a lesson when poking a porcupine. The young male leopard cub ended up with quills in his paw. We saw at least 13 different rhinos and lots of elephants and giraffes.
In my opinion Mala Mala still remains one of the best places to view game. Nothing like riding in an open jeep, over the brush and off road while chasing wild dogs, or trailing the lions or leopards stalking game. Overall, a very enjoyable, yet relaxing trip and already counting the days until we can return again.
The flight back to states was via Frankfurt and San Francisco. It took 39 hours from the time we left Mala Mala and unfortunately got little rest on the flights as we had children in the area near us that seemed to sense when you were about to doze off. But can't complain, at least we had leg room and good service in business class. We actually flew over Boise on way to San Francsico and felt like parachuting out at that point. But that leg of trip was non-stop from Frankfurt to San Francisco and we had a 5 hour layover until we got back on plane and flew back 1 hour to Boise.
Hope to post some of the photos soon. I took some with a backup Cannon S2 and did ok, for my first photo shoots. But it was so hard to take photos, when the action was so captivating. We have so many photos to go through, before I post some of the better ones.
Thanks again to all those who helped with questions when I was planning this trip, your advise was invaluable.
-Granny Joan
Mala Mala Trip Report May 2007
Recent Activity
View all Africa & the Middle East activity »
- 1 Advice on Porinin camps?
- 2 Best Budget Tour Operator
- 3 Currency Exchange in Morocco
- 4 Driving Aswan to Luxor
- 5 Is now a good time to visit Yemen
- 6 RSA: Tswalu vs Mashatu vs Phinda
- 7 2 weeks in South Africa with teens
- 8 phone service
- 9 Tanzania in 2014
- 10 Difference between Air Botswana and South African Air
- 11
Morocco . . . Rough Around the Edges
- 12 How to choose tour group for Egypt
- 13
16 Days in Uganda - mountain gorillas and so much more!
- 14 How to find if safari company is legit ?
- 15 Mosquito repellants whicwork best !!
- 16 Living in Morocco.
- 17
Our best trip ever - in Morocco
- 18
Mozambique 1 - 13 June 2013.
- 19 Yellow Fevor innoculation revisited
- 20 Questions re Gorillas in Rwanda and money in both Rwanda and Tanzania
- 21 6 nights in Morocco - how long to spend in marrakech and fes each?
- 22 Help! First trip to Africa and overwhelmed!!
- 23
TRIP REPORT: Northern Tanzania with a Birding Twist 2/13
- 24 Cross Egypt Challenge and 4 extra days
- 25 Makoa-Farm Tanzania
Welcome back! Thanks for the report. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos.
Good report, thanks. Were the "couple of nights" guests newlywed/honeymooners? I had some vehicle companions like that and they were sooooo silly. And a general aggravation in wanting to take videos of EVERYTHING. (My trip report in progress).
regards - tom
Sounds like you had a fantastic time! My husband and I are going to MM for four nights in July, so I was glad to read that you had such a good experience. Looking forward to seeing your photos! Welcome back!
Hi GJ and thanks for the report. Much appreciated and glad you and your husband had a nice time and saw lots of wildlife.
Did they charge you for extras such as cokes and laundry and wines etc at Mala Mala?
Warm regards
Mohammed
(Sri Lanka)
Sounds like a great trip and looking forward to the photos!
Joan
Sounds like you had a great time. 12 nights is a huge luxury at MM, and did give you plenty of drives with no other people always a major plus. I have been there ten times and never seen the 7 in one visit. About 2% of visitors actually get that lucky. I was reading the cyberdiar for the period of your stay and you did really well.
Thanks for the report.
Mohammed,
They do NOT charge for laundry. They do charge for drinks such as cokes and wine. We aren't big coke drinkers and the lemonade and ice tea was available. We had wine and beer which you would normally pay for on most safaris I believe.
Lily, I am sure you will have a great time at MM in July. Is this your first visit to MM?
Granny Joan
We are also going to MM from JNB. Does the flight only allow duffle bags? We are unfortunately going for just three days so we do not need to take much with us, but I did not realize that we needed to repack into duffles.
12 nights-how wonderful. Isn't that Shakespeare?
Nice to get an upgrade to Sable. Even nicer to have your tremendous wildlife sightings. The poor leopard cub with the porcupine quills in his paw. Oh well, one of those invaluable lessons.
Wild dogs running! Did you know where to or from what?
Good job with the owl and cheetah!
Thanks for the report!
Elainee,
Others on the flight checked regular type small suitcases on the SAA flight from JNB to Mala Mala. We already had the duffles from a previous trip and just find them easier to use on trips to Africa.
Granny Joan
Granny Joan -
Yes, this will be our first trip to MM. We went to Botswana last year and were lucky enough to put together a somewhat last minute trip to SA this July. We can't wait - and are now even more excited after reading about your trip!
-Lily
GJ, did you see vehicles from other camps at MM? One called Kirkmans maybe?
Carla,
Yes we did see Kirkman vehicles several times when in the Southern area of MM. We also attempted to help one of the local residents who got stuck at one of the river crossings.
Granny Joan
Thanks GJ, was there a noticeable difference in sightings from the South end vs. the North?
Carla,
It seems that we saw more leopards in the Northern area, as well as elephants and giraffes. But along the main road into Mala Mala we did see giraffes as well. We only had one sighting as I recall of leopards in the southern area. Did have lions in both areas. The cheetahs were sighted in daytime in more central area. It is hard to say, as the animals tend to move around somewhat.
I am almost ready to post a few videos and photos. I am trying to put the variety of animals I saw and since I have thousands of photos it is hard to choose the best ones ... but will post a link as soon as I get it all together.
-Granny Joan
Hi GrannyJoan
Great to hear that you had a fantastic trip. Certainly when you stay 12 nights, you shall get your share of 2 nighters and I have had my share of racing around after the big 5 when I am at MalaMala for 3 weeks or so. I love looking at many, many, many things and probably the more I return to MM, the less interest I have in seeing "the big 5" on a daily basis.
Matt,
are you kidding when you say you have not seen the MM 7 in any one visit? That is amazing! I had dry spells for a few years, and it was those wild dogs that were normally missing, but my luck has returned this year with both visits giving me the 7.
CarlaM
Great sightings to be had in both north and south. I am never disappointed in heading south, although you do not always make it, if some viewing brings you back north. Staying there for a few nights usually only means one visit to the south but it also depends on your ranger. Some of the newer ones do not have the experience of the south, especially since Kirkmans was sold. It also helps if your ranger has worked at Kirkmans, and that is the case with Bens and was the case with past rangers. I also know that Kirkmans have made a huge number of new roads, and that is a whole new learning process for the MM rangers, as obviously they need to learn the new roads now.
I am not returning until mid December, so a long long time to wait.
Kind regards
Kaye
GrannyJoan just posted her response to CarlaM as I was posting. Really, great leopard viewing to be had in both north and south.
Cartainly, the fantastic sightings of the hyena dens I had in March were only in the south - and even though we visited the den quite a few times, the hyena were not always there! But always plenty of other things to view!
Kind regards,
Kaye
Well, here goes the link to my photos and video clips. Enjoy. I tried to pick a few for variety and none have been cropped or enhanced and hope they give you an idea of what to expect at Mala Mala.
I may add to this link as time allows and update periodically if I find some better photos in the thousands we took while on this trip.
http://web.mac.com/jheitzeb/iWeb/South%20Africa%202007/Photos.html
-Granny Joan
Fantastic! Loved the pictures and the movies with the audio!! You were so close to the leopards and lions mating!
Thanks for posting!
Hi Joan,
That's a giant kingfisher you've got there. So glad you enjoyed Mala Mala, it was my first camp in 1974, and I've been to Africa just about every year since.
Loved your report,
Jan
Jan,
Yes, you are right that is the Giant Kingfisher. My mistake.
GJ
Joan
Secretarybird - great sighting at MM, most of the rangers there have not seen one on property. Loved the Owl also.
Hi GJ,
I enjoyed your photos but for some reason I am unable to view your videos. I tried on 3 different computers...hummm
I did find out that Kirkmans uses the airstrip at MM that is why people see their vehicles there in the South. Thanks for your info, I am trying to fit MM into my 9 day trip budget.
Sorry you aren't able to view the movies. I created them on Macintosh and should be playable with Quicktime. Are you using windows machine? Do you have Quicktime on that machine?
Granny Joan
Kaye
Never seen the 7 in one go. I have had dog sightings on 3 trips and cheetah on 6 or even 7, but everytime I see dogs, the cheetah have disappeared. This year has been amazing for both, becuase of Lion pride dynamics.
Matt, can you expand/expound some on the lion pride dynamics in the Sabi Sand Reserve, please? I heard there is a coalition of six (yes 6) males that is wrecking havoc in the area.
regards - tom
GJ, did you use the S2 to do the video clips? They're great.
Yes, I did use the S2 to do the video clips. Actually took my photos with the S2 and my husband used a Nikon 200 SI SLR type camera. He has been comparing photos we both took of same animal at around same time and it looks like the S2 actually provided clearer images in a lot of cases.
I was impressed with the color of the video clips during the day with the S2. The rangers at the camp were impressed with the night time video clips and said they had tried to get similar shots in the past and that our video seemed clearer.
Very pleased with the S2, easy to use and my first time using it. I am not the photographer normally. I have two adult kids and DH that have always been the cameramen.
Granny Joan
If you set the S2 video mode to 640x480 at 30fps it is a good quality video in the AVI format. That AVI is not compressed ( I think) and that is why is sucks up about 120 meg of memory card per minute. Apple Quicktime compresses the AVI file, not sure by how much.
I use Proshow Gold to put the S2 videos, and stills, on DVD and it does of good job of keeping the video quality. (Although not HD).
Also, I must defend the Nikon D200. I have the S2 and the D200 with Nikon lenses and the Nikon is without a doubt the better camera, better image quality. Whether they are better photos/pictures depends on the photographer (and post processing)
regards - tom
Thanks for info Tom. Not sure that my husband would agree that it was the photographer. Better keep that to myself. Ha.
Granny Joan
Tom
The six males were from the Eyrefield Pride ranging in years from 4 to 7. Their last act on MM was the Buffalo kill I posted on Youtube. After that with all of MM at their disposal they headed west and appear to be hunting whatever they like, Buffalo, hippo's etc.
MM was then controlled by two sets of male Lions, the Split Rocks in the North and the Rollercoasters in the south. With the exodus of the 6, the Rollercoasters started to push north, that coincided with the death of one of the Split Rocks. MM is really too big for a coalition of two males to hold, but the loss of his partner has put the remaining Split Rock on the defensive, so he hangs with the Styx pride and is not being territorial. That really leaves large swathes of MM without Lions being territorial which has increased the amount of Cheetah's and Wild Dogs. For more information look through the cyberdiary, you can look at individual Lion prides / coalitions and individual Leopards. So if you read up on the Split Rock males you'll get a good sense of the story without having to wade through months of the daily diary.
The link below has a history of Londolozi's lions but as some of these the same it makes interesting reading.
http://www.rangerdiaries.com/category/animals/
You can also follow the 6 Eyrefield males ("Mapogo") on the Exeter game reports..
http://www.wildwatch.com/sightings/exeter
I actually keep a cheat sheet for MalaMala, Londolozi, Djuma, Nkhoro etc game reports as they don't all use the same names for the same animals.
nancy
To illustrate my point, wild dogs are now denning on Mala Mala in the south eastern part of the property in Paradise Valley. This is the first time they've denned since 2004 I think.
NapaMatt,
Can guests visit the place you described to try to see the dogs?
Granny Joan,
In another thread I saw you mentioned heading back from a drive because someone booked a massage. Is a game drive cut short for the whole vehicle because someone wants a massage? Can I request a massage-free vehicle?
GrannyJoan and NapaMatt,
I recall other threads stating Mala Mala kept a folder on guests' food preferences and animal sightings. If they are that meticulous, I would think you could ask for a group that gets their butts in the vehicle pronto so we don't miss decent light and a group that won't drag you back early for massage time. Such a customer focused place must try to minimize these conflicts. Don't they?
Massage-free vehicle - some may feel like a massage AFTER an off road drive
I'm thinking of making a separate post as an open suggestion to camp marketing. Like you said Lynn, camp "alumni". A deal for those of us who can not afford private vehicles.
Here's sort of what I've been thinking. The camp has a special category for camp alumni or those new guests who have been on several safaris, other camps. First thing this does is eliminate the first timers, first safari, first game drive, with a new camera who want photos of all animals even if they are 300 meters away. Second requirement is that you have to be interested in photography and be willing to go out earlier in the morning and earlier in the afternoon than the official "summer" or "winter" drive hours. And there would be no more than four guests in the vehicle. Finally, it would cost more, another perhaps $75 per day per guest. But it would be worth it, believe me. I'd jump right on such a setup.
I know there are special tours for photographers only and lead by professional photographers. Have you seen the prices? Some make having a private vehicle look cheap after all.
This would not have to be that extreme. Just that the camp would have a "class" for the "graduate" safari goer who is keen on photography. And the camp caters to that interest. And of course charges more to provide it.
Comments?
regards - tom
I agree Tom, but think you should start this talk on a new thread so it doesn't detract from Granny Joan's trip report! (EDITED) tom's next post p.s. might not make sense now
Agreed, I just wanted to send out some "feelers". Let's not discuss any further here, this posting.
regards - tom
ps - not my trip report, sorry GJ for distracting
Hey Dennis - how did you edit your reply after it was posted????
regards - tom
ps - sorry GJ, another off topic
In regards to the "wild dogs" den, the rangers had not found the den at the time we were at MM (May 18th - 30th, 2007) but had narrowed it down to a rectangular section on the MM property. One of the wild dogs appears to be pregnant as well.
We spent 3 to 4 days searching this area and seeing the wild dogs on three different ocassions. The rides in the jeep off road to try and keep up with these dogs is a crazy fast paced ride. Some of these rangers should enter the Nascar races as they have some great skills manuevering on and off the roads.
There is suppose to be a pack of 11 or so of these dogs, at most we saw about 4 or 5 at one time.
Lynn, our driver was not thrilled with having to take the persons who booked a massage back to camp, but I am sure they are encouraged to not upset the guests. It is ashame that some persons don't seem to realize that they should be considerate of others in making their appointments. Most of the persons in our jeep were very considerate of all in the jeep, this couple was probably the exception.
Lynn, guess you are about to leave fairly soon. Have a great trip and I am sure you will enjoy MM.
Granny Joan
I am having a hard time adjusting to the lack of wild game around here and ocassionally I talk to DH into a game drive around the city or out to dinner. We certainly miss Africa.
Lynn
They do keep detailed records, but most people only ever go there once in their lives.
I have never experienced that, but these days generally travel with like minded friends.
Tom your alumni idea is a good one. I suspect it would potentially be workable at somewhere like MM which is a little bigger. As for driving back for a massage, I'm sure politeness would have stopped me saying anything in the vehicle, but I would have complained to management on my return.
I think my politeness would have gone out the window (or whatever you call a vehicle's window space that doesn't have a window) and protested.
Not sure how much I would have said right then, but would have complained to management later. Who would/could probably do nothing.
BUT on-the-ball management should check such appointments (before game drives) and seeing a conflict talk with subject party. Or, on-the-ball management should have a policy that says that their staff who performs such services tells management about any appointments that could conflict with game drives. Simple, management just has to really care enough to be proactive with this. So, next problem please.
regards - tom
Thanks for all the info.
Tom, I love your idea. Hoping that guests are divided up with some logic, I did ask my agent to inform Mala Mala and Phinda that I've been on previous safaris and am always willing to forego fine dining or sleeping late in exchange for game viewing.
GrannyJoan,
Hope the game drives around town have been fun. Do you take binoculars? That might get you arrested.
NapaMatt,
You mentioned wild dogs denning in Mala Mala. The pups first came out a little over a week ago. There are 13! I got to see the pups twice. Mother and the rest of the pack look very healthy.
The rangers said that 2004 was the last time dogs were seen on the Mala Mala property. They were actually denning in Kruger but would come across often to hunt.
Actually denning on Mala Mala property has not occurred for 24 years I was told.
Mala Mala is starting to book up now that word is out.
I am at Southern Sun in Joburg, post an exciting 4 days at Mala Mala.
Hello Lynn,
Great dog sightings!!! Enjoy the rest of your trip....and would love to hear from you soon.
Rgds,
Hari
P.S:Your posts are being missed right now!!!
Lynn,
Can't wait to hear the report and see photos of the new pups at MM. We drove around that area it seems almost (12 nights) and only had 3 sightings of the grownups.
Looking forward to your report.
- Granny Joan
Lynn
Dogs have been seen many times on MM since 2004, in fact in 2003, they did in fact den temporarily for about 5 days when the pups were two months old.
So glad you got to see them and hopefully this will be a good year for them, how much water was around when you were there. My trip is the end of September and I dont really expect to get very far from the river at any point if conditions are really dry.
Matt
Actually, there are 14 pups (we all counted and confirmed). Am jet-lagged, just returned. Mala Mala is incredible. Wonderful, wonderful staff, rangers, trackers. (Tom, your idea is terrific - would do that in a heartbeat).
I just found this adorable photo of the pups, Lynn and Clematis are so lucky!
http://www.malamala.tv/diary.htm
Thanks for posting. I was waiting for photos from trip reports, duh ... should have checked the MM diary.
They are so cute, would have loved to seen them when we were there. Oh so cute.
Thanks again,
-Granny Joan
GrannyJoan,
After 4 nights, I can see why you'd enjoy a dozen!
Kaye,
Not returning until Mid-December? Bruce thinks you are coming back sooner. You were a MM topic of conversation! As Bruce and I were discussing your frequent and lengthy visits with and without the niece, my vehicle mates joined us. Since it is not good manners to talk about someone they don't know, we told them about you. So here were people from different parts of the US in South Africa discussing a lady from Australia. What the Internet will do!
Did I read you don't eat dinner at Mala Mala? Do you have a snack in the room or just have tea then sundowner snacks be your last food for the day?
Hi atravelyn
Sorry, but Bruce is incorrect, as unfortunately I am not back until mid-December, with a niece, as luck would have it!
Must have been a fascinating conversation, as I only know Bruce! So everyone else must have had a lot to contribute! But you are not alone in discussing my frequent and lengthy stays, as my friends here do the same, but they do know me and my many interests!
When by myself, I rarely have dinner, but usually have some fruit or something, I take from lunch or if I forget, I get some off the girls before returning to my room after the evening gamedrive. If I have a niece, they prefer going to dinner, so I mostly go with them. This is mainly because I am so tired by 8.30pm or 9pm as I always wake in the morning anywhere between 2am and 4am, every morning I am in Africa, as I cannot wait to be out in gamedrives and I hate being late. Thank god I do not have this problem at home!
Kind regards
Kaye
Kaye,
Just so you know, we were saying nice things about you as well as discussing Fodors in general.
Lynn,
Yes 12 nights at MM is heaven and was a very relaxing trip. Now we are off to Galapagos/Machu Picchu in couple of weeks. Frantically getting stuff together and hoping that I will be able to handle all the walking and steps to climb. Not sure I want to snorkel yet and keep vasilating on doing so, but will probably take my snorkel, mask and wetsuit anyway.
We booked the Nat Habitat trip and may possibly be able to camp out with the turtles.
Found a great site with some photography on the island trip that is very similar to one we will be on .. getting excited about seeing the blue footed boobie.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
-Granny Joan
Are you doing a trip report and posting photos? Love to see the MM photos.
Whoops Lynn, forgot the URL of site of Galapagos photos. This young man has some fabulous photos.
http://echeng.com/travel/ecuador/galapagos/
-Granny Joan