In September and October, late dry season, the dirty little secret is, the most interesting routes are generally not really challenging. You can actually drive a 4x4 to practically all the popular parks and never go into 4 wheel drive. The downside is that there are fewer people/vehicles taking these routes because earlier in the dry season it is well known that it can be difficult and in the wet, a no - go, therefore scaring people off later in the dry season for an easy drive. Even ferries have been popping up where I once had to ford rivers. If it is navigation issues, Tracks4Africa has accurate and frequently upgraded gps maps. There are a few paper maps that have most of these routes too. If you are afraid of a breakdown, locals(friendly) generally appear out of nowhere to assist, and can help with the small stuff. With a sat phone, common nowadays with 4x4 hire, let your fingers do the walking.

You can also do many of these self drive safaris in Zambia without camping. Just depends on your budget, time frame available, and which routes you have in mind.

We are undertaking our first self-drive in Zambia in October, in combination with a self-drive through Moremi and Chobe in Botswana. Zambia would not likely have been my first choice as our initial self-drive destination in Africa, but having driven through SA, Namibia, Botswana, Kenya and Tanzania previously, I feel confident that we will be able to handle the challenges of Zambia. Also, we wanted to return to Botswana, so Zambia was the logical choice in terms of combining a second country with Botswana. As usual, we have chosen a very simple route, taking in some of the highlights of the country. Here is our itinerary:

We fly into Namibia from Cape Town where we pick up our 4x4 with a roof-top tent (rented from safaridrive.com) and, after an overnight in Windhoek, drive to Maun in Botswana with two nights on the way at Edo Camp. From there:

Botswana
Maun - 1 nt Royal tree Lodge (used to be Motsentsela Lodge)
Moremi Game Reserve (2 nts Third Bridge Campsite, 1 nt North Gate Campsite, 1 nt Khwai Concession campsite)
Chobe National Park (2 nts Savuti Campsite, 3 nts Ihaha campsite)

Zambia
Then cross the border from Botswana into Zambia by ferry at Kazungula.

Livingstone - 2nts Waterberry Lodge then on to Lower Zambezi National Park (LZNP)
1 nt Moorings campsite in Monze on the way to LZNP
3nts camping (Elly campsite) Mvuu Lodge LZNP
4 nts Old Mondoro LZNP - our splurge of the trip
(We leave our vehicle at Mvuu and get picked up by boat by Old Mondoro).
LZNP to Lusaka
1 nt Pioneer Camp, Lusaka
Lusaka to South Luangwa National park (SLNP)
1 nt camping Luangwa Bridge Camp between Lusaka and SLNP
3 nts Track and Trail campsite SLNP
4 nts Kaingo Camp SLNP
1 nt Track and Trail Campsite SLNP
SLNP to Lilongwe in Malawi for our flights back to Cape Town

You'll note that we are camping much of the time but have some tented camp stays thrown in. Our only regret for Zambia is that we don't have time to take in Kafue NP - next time!

This is certainly not a cheap trip. While self-driving may seem cheaper (than flying), things like the park fees, camping fees, and vehicle insurance add up quickly. Robin

Can you make some changes? And you could have managed to include Kafue.

Yes, we could have included Kafue (we also debated North Luangwa) from a logistics standpoint, but I hate trying to see too much and feeling rushed and we really couldn't afford to extend the trip any longer (my DH needs to get back to work in CT) - so, after much debate, we eliminated Kafue and NLNP. Also, we like to leave an excuse to return to a country. We do hope to fly into Kasanka to see the bats. As for changes, we likely could make some, but I am not certain I wish to. What would you suggest? Robin

You don't seem receptive to my suggestions, so lets forget it.

I am reluctant only because I fear that we don't, by any stretch of the imagination, have your local knowledge and experience, so what you suggest I sometimes find intimidating. I don't wish us to get in over our heads. Nothing personal! Robin

October is the end of the dry season. The tracks have been driven over and not tough. The navigation, not difficult- you have T4A. You have more experience then the the vast majority of overseas renters and shouldn't be intimidated. Zambia is probably the safest country to self drive in. The locals haven't eaten a tourist for decades . Sat Phone and you are covered.

I make self drive interesting and unique. Not cookie cutter. With that itinerary, renting a vehicle for Botswana makes sense, the rest of the time you should fly.

Hi Lauren, I'd be interested to hear if you find a local 4x4 hire firm for your self-drive Zambia trip. I know Robin uses Safari-Drive but I'm on the lookout for a reliable/recommended local outfit out of Lusaka or Livingstone. We're also in very early planning stages for September/October so interested to hear how you get on. Unlike Robin we haven't got anywhere with a detailed plan yet!

Hi Robin & luangwablondes, following the route debate with interest! Trip looking good, Robin!

And to anyone interested in self-drive or just adventure, here's an interesting blog from 2 guys doing the route South Africa - Botswana - Zambia - Tanzania - Lake Malawi - Zambia - Zimbabwe - Pretoria.

http://www.serengetitrip.com/p/our-route.html

Some of you might recognise Villiers from his time at Mashatu as the leopard researcher.

tockoloshe

IMO, the reason you will not find a good local operator with fully equipped.
For years, primarily what was available in Zambia was 4x4s with driver/guides. And they were not fully equipped as is in the rest of Southern Africa. Fast forward and now some of the 4x4 hire companies have moved depots close to Zambia, and have relationships with some companies in Zambia, to act like depots. Zambia business climate is just not friendly and plain costly to operate there. The duties on new vehicles are prohibitive. Even used vehicles are expensive. So it makes it difficult to compete with the out of country operators that charge lower rates, even when including pickup and dropoff fees.

There were a couple in country 4x4 hire companies that had a good reputation, but they called it quits in the past couple years.

You can try Hemingways(Livingstone)and Bushlore for starters.

The reason I am commenting on Robins Zambia itinerary like I have is because it is not really an itinerary that normally would require a 4x4, let alone fully equipped for camping. And the way it is designed, could be done for less flying. The alternate routes I suggest are quite easy, especially when compared to the Maun - Moremi - Savute - Chobe route in Botswana, which has deep sand and due to rains in the past 2 years, water crossings to negotiate. The deep sand in very hot weather(October)can make for challenging driving during the heat of the day. Water crossings that most likely they will need to get out and walk to insure a safe path. There is nothing near as difficult as that in any of the routes I would suggest in Zambia. Although I should comment on the Botswana portion, with a high clearance diesel land rover or land cruiser, Robin should be just fine driving it.

I have read good reviews about Bushlore - only one negative as I recall about the client not being given the type of vehicle promised. We like Safari Drive because of the excellent service and advice they provide before the safari, and the back-up they offer during the safari - peace of mind as we travel that is worth every penny to us (especially given that we travel solo).

I guess I should make it clear that the primary reason my DH and I self-drive and camp is not to save money. We prefer to travel without a guide and we both grew up in camping families and love to camp. We love that roof-top tent. We love to drive so that we are able to see as much of a country as possible and have more interaction with the people. Personally, I would hate to fly from camp to camp. We did debate flying for the Zambia portion of the trip (we will fly to Kasanka to see the bats), but decided against it - it just didn't appeal to us. It is costing us more to drive in Zambia because, for every night we spend in one of the tented camps (Old Mondoro and Kaingo), we are also paying for the 4x4 - although SD did offer us a good rate because of the overlap and both camps have offered a stay 4 nights pay for 3 deal). If we save money by self-driving and camping, then we consider it a bonus. People often seem of the impression that it (a self-drive/camping safari) is much cheaper than a fly-in/all inclusive safari, but it really isn't - at least not the way we do it. We have nothing against guides, and enjoy their company and expertise when we stay at tented camps - we simply enjoy the freedom that self-drive offers.

We have been warned by SD that Moremi and Chobe may offer a few more challenges (because of the water) than during our previous visit, or that we may have to change our route. No worries - having travelled that route before, we won't fret if we are delayed by water crossings or are forced to detour - all part of the adventure. Happy to learn that we won't be eaten in Zambia - at least not by the villagers! As to the sat phone, you may recall that on our first trip through Botswana with SD, they forgot to give us the unlock code for the phone. We only discovered that it was completely useless to us when we tried to lend it to a stranded German couple whose 4x4 had broken down near North Gate. By that time, we were about half way through our trip. Quite funny actually! Lesson learned - try the phone before leaving civilization! Duh!

luangwablondes - Please do offer suggestions in terms of alternate routes. At the very least, I will add them to our extensive itinerary/research and, as long as we are feeling comfortable once we cross into Zambia, we will happily take the road less travelled. One of my fondest memories of our Kenyan self-drive is getting lost between Serian Camp and the Mara Triangle, and being rescued by the villagers of the tiny community of Mararianda.

tockoloshe - I have been following Villiers' blog - great photos and reading. I am so envious! Treetops in Tarangire looked wonderful. I can't wait to go back to Tarangire - we loved that park.
Robin

I am happy to hear that people want to self-drive Zambia! It is a great way to see it! It is not difficult either, as long as you do it somewhat in the drier times. I have found driving in some parts of Tanzania more of a problem than in Zambia.

Doubt if you remember me, LuangwaBlondes, but you and I exchanged some emails about driving when I first moved to Zambia in 2008. Thank you again for your good advice. I just left Zambia for Gabon and although it is exciting to be exploring a new country in Africa, I miss Zambia too much. i think I want to live there for keeps.

Canadian Robin (fellow Canadian Robin): may I ask one question? Why will you stop at Bridge Camp en route between Lusaka and Mfuwe? It is only a few hours drive from Lusaka on the fast, tarred Great East Road, and the place itself I don't find very inspiring. The campsite, if you are camping, is a small patch of earth. You can make it in seven hours to Chipata where you can camp or take simple rooms at Mama Rula's. And from there make it to Mfuwe early the following day. Lusaka to Mfuwe is do-able but makes for a very long day, especially if the road works aren't complete between Chipata and Mfuwe. You can also stop at Katete, about one hour west of Chipata and take very simple rooms at Tikondone (Luangwa told me about this program). The plus here is that Tikondane will organize an ox cart ride into a nearby village where you will eat a local dinner and watch some famous Chewa dances called Gule Wamkulu. It is a very worthwhile thing to do.

Let me add my two cents worth too about North Luangwa - it is brilliant, brilliant during the late dry season. The North Luangwa lions stalk the buffalo which amalgamate into huge herds as the dry season progresses. I encountered so many lions and a leopard while on foot up here. I wouldn't miss it, even if you say that you need something to come back to. It is an easy drive to North Luangwa from off the North Road or you can go the long way round from South Luangwa and return to Lusaka from the north, after a night or two in the hot springs at Kapishya.

So many wonderful destinations in Zambia!

Thanks for listening.

Hello MamaTembo, a fellow Canadian!
In case you are feeling homesick, it is -20C here in Western Canada this morning! This is a warm day - we have been in the -30s for several days. I look forward to the warmth of Africa and its people!

Our reason for stopping at Bridge Camp after leaving Lusaka is that we will be too rushed if we try to reach Chipata (7 hours driving). The morning that we depart for the camp (from Lusaka), we will need to buy groceries, visit a bank and top up our fuel (shopping the night before is not an option - we arrive in Lusaka on a Sunday and were told not to expect the malls/shops/banks to be open). Given that we will have to wait for the bank/shops to open in the morning, we will not get away from Lusaka until mid to late morning. We had looked into Mamma Rula's, but once the itinerary had us arriving in Lusaka on a Sunday, that was no longer possible. We realize that Bridge Camp is not an ideal stop, but we hate to feel/be rushed and certainly do not wish to arrive in Chipata after dark. Looking at my map, I suspect Katete (86km west of Chipata - 6 hours from Lusaka?) would be too far as well. Pity! I had a look at the Tikondane website, and it would have been a more interesting stop.

So true about the wonderful destinations! We had a great deal of difficulty deciding which parks to visit. We even considered dropping Botswana so that we could have longer in Zambia, but really wanted to return to Botswana. In the end, we opted to leave Botswana in the itinerary and see less of Zambia. Given that we first visited Africa in 2004-2005 and have been back except every year since but one (to avoid World Cup), I have little doubt that we will return to Zambia. If we fly into Kasanka to see the bats, we may try to combine it with NLNP. I will pull out my map and have a look at the driving route you suggest. Thank you for the suggestions! Robin

You have mentioned the Bat migration a couple times. And NLNP.
I think with the timing of this trip, you might want to reconsider your route and combine them this year. Because normally, people don't include Kasanka(Bats interest) with NLNP, and the bats start arriving in late October in Kasanka. NLNP camps start to close up near the beginning of November normally because of the 1st rains timing.

www.lowdown.co.zm/2006/2006-10/kasanka.htm
www.batcon.org/index.php/media-and-info/bats-archives.html?task=viewArticle&magArticleID=17

I would suggest you consider driving to Kafue. Drop LZNP. Include Nanzila Plains on the way to Busanga Plains (I can arrange a very good deal there). Drive to Kasanka, NLNP - Buffalo Camp(has self drive rates) or Kutandala (there is a ferry across the Luangwa),Delia Luambe and then SLNP. This would be a lot less expensive and is not a difficult route. Very interesting with remote villages, scenic, and by October, has seen plenty of traffic and not really challenging driving. The lodges and camps enroute are quite nice too.

There are better times of year to go to LZNP. October can be very humid and hot- 8 days/7 nites-eish. I would have suggested you drive in anyway. You are missing a nice game drive.

Kasanka will be a completely separate fly-in bat research trip - not part of our trip. You're quite right - time of year is wrong to combine it with NLNP.

I would suggest you consider driving to Kafue. Drop LZNP.

I would be interested in your reasons for choosing Kafue over SLNP. Is it mainly weather/time of year? We realize it is going to be stinking hot and I don't look forward to the humidity. We would have preferred to go earlier, but we already have another trip booked in July/August. October was the only month available. The following winter (of our year in SA) we will be in Kenya and Tanzania. So it was October or not at all and we really wanted to see Botswana (again) and Zambia. We did consider Kafue long and hard, especially Busanga Plains, and SD suggested it, but in the end, for many reasons, we went with SLNP. We can't possibly add Kafue on to this itinerary - we are already doing a lot of driving (given that we start in Windhoek). I look forward to those times when we will have three or four nights in one place because our trip will involve a lot of travelling. We typically spend 10 to 12 nights in a SAN Park (Kgalagadi) and never find it too long. I can't imagine finding 7 nights in LZNP too long. Really? I picture us sitting on the riverbank with a G&T in hand, watching the sunset over the river, dinner on the braai, after a splendid day of game viewing in the park - I think I could do that forever. I realize we could use at least some of that time to see other things, but we prefer not to rush around.

I would have suggested you drive in anyway. You are missing a nice game drive.

Sorry - I'm confused - which game drive are we missing? Robin

Into LZNP, to Old Mondoro, instead of taking a boat.

Good morning Canadian Robin, -20 in the WEST? Really? Where in the west are you? I will be back in my home city of Vancouver come April for a quick visit....any chance we can talk?

I understand your reasons for Bridge Camp now...and if you get an earlier start that expected, you can always push for Katete.

If you do opt for a northern driving route, you can look at stopping at Mutinondo Wilderness (beautiful semi-private camp site there with great hiking) where Lari and Mike make wonderful hosts, and Kundalila Falls, which also has a camp site. The "miombo flush" in the Mutinondo area is at its best in September - it is all the leaf colors of our autumn in temperate climates - you might still catch these colors in October.

Everyone has a different experience of course, but I have to say that driving up from Livingstone through South Kafue and overnighting at Nanzila Plains, which I did it a few times at different times of the year, was ultimately disappointing. Beautiful bush but not much wildlife. I went back that second and third time to see if I could improve on past exeriences. Wildlife was better in North Kafue and also in the game management areas that I visited east of North Kafue, but the tsetses were murder. On the other hand, one of my favorite camps and favorite camp owners is in South Kafue. With his guiding skills and passion, you do see the animals.

A great driving trip in Zambia is to go out West to Loziland on the Angolan border. You can do a circular route, beginning in Lusaka and ending in Livingstone. Best to time this for the big Lozi cultural ceremony that typically takes place in the spring, although this time of year makes for the most challenging drive. Put this on your list for your second driving safari of Zambia!

Stay warm. I will try and stay cool.

MT

luangwablondes - We did consider driving into LZNP, but we will be doing drives into the park from Mvuu and game drives from Old Mondoro, so we jumped at the chance to spend a couple of hours on the river. It should also make the day we leave for Lusaka a little easier.

MamaTembo - we are one province over from you. It is -1 here today and feels almost summer-like. Mind you, tomorrow, we are back into cold with a forecast high of -18. Only in this silly province!

It is difficult to say exactly when we will get away from Lusaka - I assume malls like Manda Hill open at 10am on a Monday morning?

Thank you for the suggestions - I will look into Mutinondo and Kundalila Falls - I found one trip report with pictures of the falls and it looked lovely.

Interesting your input about Kafue - certainly most of the glowing reports we had read were from the north. It would have been an easy add-on from Lusaka, but we simply ran out of time. Absolutely - next time! Robin

Hi- was away traveling the last 3 days, but I see the board has been active! Will read through and see if I have any questions. Thanks!

Canadian Robin, sorry to be late getting back to you. You will find Manda Hill and Arcades Malls in Luskaa open by 9am latest. At least the grocery stores are.

MT

Thanks MT! Would you recommend one mall over the other, or are they much the same? Most people seem to use Manda Hill.

-25C here this morning -33C with the wind chill. Blessed cold! Not going to get out of the cold until the end of the weekend. I gather Victoria was at a standstill yesterday after receiving nine inches of snow - not certain if the storm hit Vancouver. Enjoy your warmth! Robin

Hi CR,

I prefer Arcades because it is quiet and parking there isn't so much of a problem. It also has a great book store. Manda Hill has recently re opened after a reno: people love to hang out there. Depends what supplies you need. The Shoprite at Manda is arguably better than the Spar at Arcades.

Heavy rain here in Libreville. Most of us woke up to floods. Still preferable to -25 C however!

MT

Thanks MT! Does Manda Hill have a Woolworth's food since the renovations? We are shattering cold records here - two nights ago, several cities in this province broke the previous recorded lows by 10 to 13C - amazing and blessed cold! It was -43C with the wind chill in Lethbridge last night - and this is March! CR

http://tinyurl.com/4k74bqc

Canadian Robin - i am a fello canuck (in ontario but did live in edmonton for four yrs) followed your east african trip report with much fun! What a great trip. I am heading to tz for a self drive this august with my father and friend - is there a way to hook up on email so i can ask some rather silly questions - like can we get groceries in karatu....and where my buddy can buy yet more wooden carvings...

My wife and i spent three weeks in zim and zambia in 2009 and we put our trip together with the awesome help of luangwa blondes - so hello to luangwa blondes!

For what it is worth we loved track n trails - eles in the camp everyday and night. Do pay for a night drive as we saw a pride take down three buf calves, just after a leopard and a pack of wild dog....productive to say the least....

Hi Sallycanoe! Always happy to chat with a fellow canuck and self-driver - I am originally from Ontario and went to Trent. Pity you are not still in Edmonton - I am headed there next weekend.

If you want to post your email, I will certainly be happy to respond. However, you might want to post your questions here so others can benefit - there are no silly questions on this forum . Whatever you like!

We didn't stop in Karatu but, as I recall, there was a market. Mto Wa Mbu is the larger town of the two, and would likely have better shopping. For wooden carvings, the best market we visited in Tanzania was the Masai market in Arusha - good selection, good prices!

Have you posted a trip report for your Zim/Zam trip? Would love to hear about your trip.

Good to learn you liked T&T - haven't been able to find anyone who has stayed there. You had quite the night drive! CR

Thanks for the link to Manda Hill luangwablondes. I have been on the website and know that there is a Woolies, but no where does it say if the Woolies has food. CR

Canadian Robin, or any one!, okay I know this is not on the right post but I'll make up for that with some details on our last trip to Zambia.

The big question I have is our trip and camping sites: end aug/early september we are doing the fol: 3 nights Tarangire (Mhwembe SC- booked); 1 night Rhino Lodge (on the rim); 1 night Simba A public campsite (we'll bring warm clothes!); 2 nights Hembe SC, 2 nights Lobo Hill SC, 1 night public campsite in Seronera area; then fly into a camp in the Mara Triangle (TZ side but in the thick of the migration river crossings - not very cheap!).

Any thoughts on this is appreciated, but in particular your thoughts on the 2 nights Hembe, 2 nights Lobo, 1 night Seronera. There are no SC available for our last night in the area and we need to be at the airstrip by around noon, so we are thinking that a public campsite will need to do. The same for the first two in the serengetti - nothing available closer to Seronera so we've booked Hembe SC. Hembe is about 30km from Seronera towards the western corridor...we wanted to be in the Seronera area because we've been told that the wildlife, particularly cheetah and lion is good. Have you any thoughts on this: we could decrease a night in Hembe for another night in a public campsite in the valley (traffic and congestion...ugh) if you think the game is that much better or even add a night at Lobo Hill (for three nights)...or stay at Hembe for two...

Am over-thinking this yet again, but hey, planning the trip is almost as much fun as doing it!

Thanks!

Zambia. Zimbabwe Trip report from 2009 - this is a rough summary from a trip two years ago...August 2009, focused on Mana Pools Zim, and SLNP Zambia (self-drive)

- Arrived Lusaka, then immediate transfer to Chirundu (arranged through Zambian Safari Company who are great, very responsive with queries via email and tons of help) on the Zambezi river (Zam/Zim border). Stayed at Zambezi Breezers - perfect location, great atmosphere (mostly Zim expats living in Zambia and staying for a fishing weekend). Reasonable rates, and facilities were good. Arrived around 5PM after a long 44hrs of transit, had a glass of wine listening to the resident hippo, then spent a lively evening at the bar with the Zim expats...these folks are hardy! We stuck it out as long as we could at the bar, and our new friends helped us the next day with the border crossing.
- Border xing. We did not have a vehicle at this time and had planned on walking the no-man's land across the bridge. This would not have been a good idea as it is probably close to 3km between border posts. Our new Zim expat friends dropped us at the Zam exit post (about 10 mins from Breezers) and we then took a taxi across the no-mans land to the Zim entry port after getting the appropriate stamps. The Zam taxis are allowed in no man's land, but the zim taxis are not. On the Zim side, we had no problems, and within 15mins had linked up with the driver from our Mana Pools tented camp.
- 5 nights in Mana Pools. Incredible. Walking and canoeing safaris with an amazing guide. Lion, wild dog (saw them hunting twice), leopard and elephant..). Mana was awesome.
- we were then dropped off at the Zim border post for our reverse journey into Zam. We had arranged for our 4x4 rental company to pick us up at the border on the Zam side. After some attempted bribes which we shook off, we finally found a young man with a cell phone who, for a price, was willing to call over to a Zam taxi, who then drove over the bridged picked us up, and then dropped us off on the Zam side. This was actually not much fun. But it worked. The bribe experience was unpleasant, but we firmly declined the offer to pay 100USD for the exit visa. The official looked around the empty customs room and implied that we really had no choice...I explained that we had loved our time in Zim and it would be unfortunate if my last memory was a negative one. He smiled and stamped the exit visa.
- we then found our Landy, and drove back to Lusaka. We stayed at Chita Lodge which was in a great location to Manda Hill and the other shopping centre, Arcades. Accomodations were okay, nothing special but good enough for a quick overnight. We had supper at Manda Hill (nice) and did groceries that night at Arcades. No difference...they are both close and both have everything you need.
- we hit the road early the next morning (too early as I forgot my visa card - more on this later). It was a sunday and traffic was light. We drove to Chipata - a long drive. Roads were good, a few sections with potholes, but nothing compared to the Kasane-Nata road. What was truly awesome was that we saw zero tourist/safari traffic - we really felt like we were touring through the 'real' africa - for whatever that means. Definately off the beaten path and away from the normal safari circuit.
- we arrived Chipata after a good 7 hrs of driving. No issues at any of the checkpoints - just smiles and waves, and one half-hearted search with no malice intent. We stayed at Mama Rulas which was good enough to camp in. Another solid grocery store in Chipata if you forgot anything.
- Chipata to MFuwe was a good drive, not sign posted, and very very corrugated. We drove too slow, and after speaking to our campsite neighbours, he advised to travel fast, and skim the bumps....up to you! We stayed at Track and Trail - great location. Our tent (RTT) was parked right on the river and we saw hippos, crocs and elephant all day long. T&T also has good facilities and a good bar/restaurant. We purchased bread once, but otherwise we stuck to our own provisions. Track and Trails is a good choice, and every day we had eles in the campsite - you need to make sure you give your fruit to the camp manager everynight, else you might end up with a smashed up trunk (or boot)...
- SLNP was fantastic. Lions and giraffe and big buf heards. And of course leopard. Two solid days and no leopard for us, so we went on a night drive. Ten minutes in - there - a leopard. How many had we driven by? The price we self-drivers pay in missed sightings...the night drives are well worth it. We actually hired our night drive driver to come with us in our vehicle for morning drive - sure enough he spotted two leopards.
- game drives in SLNP were very easy. Travelled along main roads until we found tracks we liked and followed them. Most sightings were solo with no other vehicle traffic and the vehicle traffic that did exist was very courteous - guides would hang back to avoid a crowd, then move in once the other vehicle had departed. Had a leaky tire and actually needed to hand-pump the tire in the midst of a zebra herd. The leaky tire was a pain for the rest of the trip, as was the leaky and underinflated spare...
- we also visited the Tribal Textiles in Mfuwe - a good mid-day diversion - especially for my wife. After all the dust and dirt, she managed to pay me back by spending our gas money on those irresistable table cloths and whatever else they sold. This is where we realized I had lost my visa. So literally we used our 'emergency gas cash' to pay for the stockpile of future wedding gifts she had selected. Very beautiful stuff, and not cheap, but of high quality. Not really my thing.
- we also visited the Chipembele Wildlife Education Centre - about an hours drive from track and trail along the non-park side of the Luangwa river. Great place - we linked up with the amazing brit expats who run this place via the internet and had brought a bag full of donations (the normal soccer balls, pens, paper, stickers etc). What an incredible place and people.
- we also spent a day in the north east part of the park - east side of the river, Nsefu Sector. Wild - we spent a full day and never once saw another vehicle. Saw the most amazing buffalo herd cross a river - the herd must have been a km long. Great day and well worth it if you have time.
- After 5 nights, we hit the road back to Lusaka. Realized we were ready to go when we drove past a lion without blinking an eye...we stopped at the Bridge Camp on the way home...as per the post above, nothing to write home about. Camped with three couples from South Africa (50s and 602s) who were fretting about how all their doctors had moved to Canada (we apologized and shared a bottle of wine).
- Back to Lusaka and the Chita Lodge - where they, without prompt, handed me my visa card which I left on the counter at checkout (so excited to get going). The Lusaka weekend market was really good with a wide variety of curios...

Bottomline: not a normal self-drive trip as we were kind of in and out in a hurry with just one drive in destination, but we really wanted to see SLNP and I am not a big fan of being guided around, and we can't afford the high end lodges. The Mana Pools part was amazing. SLNP was amazing. The roads in Zambia were fine, and the people friendly. Great trip for sure - short, but sweet, and with the driving we felt we actually saw something of Zambia, rather than just airport, airplane, lodge...etc.

Another shout-out to Luangwa Blondes who provided alot of info and advice for our planning.

Mbweha campsite in Tarangire is great - good location in terms of where the action was when we were there in August, very isolated and a beautiful spot with lovely views - probably the most scenic of all the special campsites we stayed on. It is a little difficult to find - I assume you got our GPS points off our report. There are several forks in the road on the way to the site, and none are marked. Beware of the colony of bees in the big tree on the campsite. We were fine on the campsite for the first night, before the bees discovered us (and more importantly, that we had water!). The second two nights, the bees forced us to camp about a kilometre away, which was fine. We just found an open spot and camped - we didn't build a campfire because we didn't want to leave a scar on what was not a legitimate campsite. Rangers we met at the picnic site were fine with us camping off the site, but they did offer to move us to another SC. We liked the location too much, so we stayed put. We found the best game viewing to be along the river, below the Matete picnic site, so head south from the campsite at dawn.

Despite the fact that the migration had moved on, we liked the Western Corridor. Having been stripped of all of the grass, it looked incredibly barren, but we saw plenty of wildlife, including two prides of lions. There were still pockets of water in the Grumeti River that attracted the wildlife. We watched crocs eat a zebra that had come in to drink. From my map, it appears as though Hemba isn't too far from Seronera, so two nights there would likely be good. It would be worth spending a bit of time along the Grumeti River - although maybe not, given your limited time. Head south to Seronera - although that will be a long round trip.

Lobo was a huge surprise to us. The reviews we had read implied that the game viewing wasn't that good, but we saw more lions in Lobo than anywhere else, and also had a cheetah to ourselves at one point. We found the game viewing amazing and were so thankful that we had booked three nights. The Lobo Hills campsite is located at the end of a dead-end track. We actually camped about a kilometre from the end - where the views were much better and it was more open (so no tsetse flies). The campsite at Lobo Hills is very close to the Ngare Naironya Springs and the road along the springs provided the best game-viewing of our trip - if we drove it at dawn or dusk, we were almost guaranteed to see at least two or three groups of lions. It is where we watched the lions kill a buffalo. Check out the kopjes near the airstrip at Lobo - the lions like to warm themselves on the rocks at dawn. The Grumeti Game Drive circuit, while very scenic and quiet (we saw only one other vehicle), didn't provide great viewing other than the cheetah.

The public campsites at Seronera for one night would be fine, just not nearly as isolated or private - they are popular with large groups and there may be more than one group on a site, so they may be a tad noisy. However, the sites are big enough that you could perhaps tuck yourself away in a corner.

We certainly had great sightings in the Seronera area - we regretted only having two nights there but mainly because we had to have been given what is surely the best campsite at Seronera. The Turner Springs campsite was amazing - very isolated and the springs attracted a lot of wildlife. The lions and hyenas kept us awake most of the night. However, the downside was many vehicles once we drove back towards the main area. Any good sightings involved several vehicles - ugh!

I think your two nights Hemba, 2 nights Lobo and 1 night Seronera will be fine. If it were possible to get a SC at Seronera, I would drop a night or even two at Hemba and add it on at Seronera - or add another night at Lobo. I might be tempted to add a night at Seronera even if you have to stay on a public campsite - it's a tough choice. You could book yourself onto a public campsite and then check to see if there is a special campsite available once you get there. There were two special campsites at Turner Springs and one was empty when we were there in August. In fact, on our Serengeti trip, we only ever saw two other SC being used - both at Lobo by mobile safari groups. I am amazed that they are telling you that they are booked. Honestly, from our experience, we could have been based anywhere in the Serengeti and the viewing would have been great. However, when we were there in August, the area just south of Seronera and Lobo did seem to be the centre of activity.

Give the Retima Hippo pool on the way to Lobo a miss - not worth the hype! Spend all your time at Lobo.

...and I agree - the planning is soooo much fun - such anticipation!

Speaking of anticipation...I am eagerly anticipating those Zambia details....

You might wish to start a new post so that others can offer their Serengeti input - no one will think to look on this post given the Zambian title. Robin

Please refer to my comments on camping at Croc Valley in South Luangwa!

Hi Robin -

I can't tell you what a resource your travel log has been in putting together my own self-drive trip - thanks for being so thorough!

I know that you didn't us the public campsites in Serengeti and Ngorongoro, but thought I'd ask in case you or anyone else tuned in has an answer.

1. Is it possible to reserve a spot at the public campsites ahead of time (so one knows for sure that a place to stay is waiting)?

2. If not, do they ever fill up? (Translate: someone arrives and gets turned away - yikes!).

* I can't seem to figure this one out.

thanks in advance!
best,
rich

Some maps of the SLNP area - www.maunselfdrive4x4.com/slnpmaps.htm

Gives you an idea where places and routes are that we often talk about.

My apologies richwpagen - I missed your questions - just found them now when luangwablondes' post brought the thread back to the top. I am certain my response will be far too late but... as far as I know, you cannot book a public campsite. The campsites I have seen have all been quite large (accommodating 20 tents), and I cannot imagine they fill up. The exception would be at the campsite in Seronera in the central Serengeti. At Seronera, the campsites (there are several) were busy, but campers were assigned to a specific site on arrival, so there were not too many campers per site.

Regarding the Zambia discussion above, here is the link to my trip report and photos from our Botswana/Zambia trip in October 2011 - it is a work in progress, but the highlights are posted, along with some of our favourite photos. CR

http://bert-and-bin.smugmug.com/Travel/Sabbatical2011-2012Newsletter4/20148040_sCzBLk

I just got an email from the owner of Zikomo Safari Camp. The camp has had regular visits by wild dog recently. They think the wild dogs are denning in the general vicinity.

@CR-- it's taken nearly all day for me to get through your remarkable trip report with those fabulous pictures. What a fabulous adventure!

Hi Robin,
what a great trip report!
i had already read you previous report from Tanzania and Botswana and had enjoy them as well!
this one is especially enjoyable since i am "strandet" i Norway for the moment after a four years periode living in Zambia as well as tree years in Malawi...
durring this seven year i did a lot a selv driving all around the region,SLNP for ex i probably visit around 40 times sometime up to 10 days at the time...i drive up to the Serengeti from Lusaka and have been down a couple of time to Namibia...
for your next Africa expedition allow me to recommend Katavi np and Ruaha np, to places, i am sure you will enjoy a lot!

About self-drive in Zambia i d like to precize a few things
first, driving into the Zambian bush even in the dry season without a 4/4 is asking for trouble!
of the tre main np in the dry season Kafue is probably the easyest to drive around but in the busanga depending on the amount of rain that has falling one can meet muddy areas well up into august, also there are patch of deep sand on somme tracks...
the acces road to the Lower Zambezi np cross severals dry rivers beds where the descent into and the climing out is verry steep, the road sandy with loses rocks, crossing those without a 4/4 is a serious problem is possible at all...once in the park many of the game drive loops cross muds holes, pools and deep sand patches...
the last time i was there driving to South Luangwa, it could be done with a saloon car from Chipata and many loops could be drived with a high clearence 2/4 nevertheless some loops cross dry river and small streams beds, som of them are actualy on those beds witch are made of verry deep sand...
it is possible of course to avoid those road but it can be frustrating to have to back track the samme loop...

about camping i will recommend Flattdogs, when it is available for it s great site with a lot of big trees and bushes and the wildlife passing throug (elephants, hippos, girafes, hyenas, bushbucks, lions...)
For the rest of the year my choice will be Wildlife camp with great wildlife viewing around the camp and the adjacent floodplains.
The problem if one with those camp is the overlands trucks and the noise they can make, espesialy in the evening...these trucks actualy can be a problem in most of the easy accesible campsites in the region.
lukyly one can still find great campsites without in place like North Luangwa, Katavi and Ruaha for ex...

Unfortunately, Flatdogs doesn't offer camping any more. There is a new campsite at Nsefu that doesn't take large groups, unless they reserve all the campsites- all 5 of them. This is getting to be a popular option for campers who want some space and quiet when camping. All the sites are on the river, and in a game rich area-That includes cats and dogs.