Great start, there is quite a bit of interest in PNG on this board so you should have a nice following to your thread. Can't wait for more!

Aloha!

Yes, I await the rest of the report. I had a friend who lived there in the 80s and have heard some wild tales. Happy Travels!

Great start! I'm really looking forward to reading about your trip to PNG!

PNG is on our list - look forward to more.

More, please!

Also waiting for more...

Thank you all very, very much for your encouragement. I was nervous when I pressed the Submit key yesterday evening for my very first trip report ever, but now--well, I’m glowing!

O.K., here goes the next part.....

My husband and I didn’t mean to fall in love with Papua New Guinea when we went there In October of 1998. All we meant to do was enjoy ten relaxing days scuba diving from a live aboard dive boat. We’d little interest and less knowledge of the country but decided, seeing we were there and some of the other divers were going to take a trip inland, we might as well go with them. The Pacific islands have seduced so many who’ve travelled there—explorers, scientists, artists, writers. And us. From the moment we arrived back home, we started longing and planning to return.

Day 1: Papua New Guinea: Arrive and overnight in Port Moresby.
All went smoothly with the flights to Port Moresby via Brisbane and we arrived to the cheerful playing of a group of local musicians. Met up with our ElderTreks guide, who was in his early thirties and the other ten group members, all from the U.S except for one Canadian. They ranged in age from 56 through 82, pleasant, well traveled, and fit. On days when we had a long road journey, we’d get out our vehicle and walk for a mile or so.

My husband had decided to grow his beard so he didn’t have to struggle with shaving under, at times, difficult conditions, and if he hadn’t, he would have been the only man without one. Our Eldertreks guide had shaved his off before the trip, but both he and the local guide, who was with us throughout the whole trip, grew their beards as the days went by.


Day 2: Fly to Mt. Hagen. Rest of day at Paikona village for mini show. Overnight Hagen.
After a quick visit to the hotel, off we went to the mini Sing Sing at Paikona village. We enjoyed it more than the main one next day at the Mt. Hagen fairgrounds, I think because we were right in there amongst them as they practiced for the coming competitions the following day. I got some fabulous photos.

While in the Highlands I hoped to find the huli wigmen I‘d photographed on my previous visit and give them prints. As I was wandering around, peering into huli faces, one of the men asked me who I was searching for, I showed him my photos, and he led me to “my” huli. They were very happy to get the prints—they’re familiar with seeing themselves in the back of digital cameras but don’t have actual photographs. They were also excited to see my photo of their witchdoctor, Dr. Pajia, and said they’d take it to him.

On the way back to the hotel that evening, our local guide asked if we wanted to meet his wife and children, which we very much did, so stopped by his family compound for a brief visit. Everything was well kept and thriving and he had a delightful family.

Day 3: Mt. Hagen Cultural Show…out-dress, out-dance, and out-sing the other competitors.
Bright and early we were at the Mt. Hagen showgrounds, even before many of the tribes had arrived. Wandering about and watching people getting ready was most interesting and a chance for more photos. Our Eldertreks guide arranged for us to all get a small face painting.

The energy the various groups put out during the competitions was impressive, especially the women. Some of them were loaded down with shells around their necks and other decorations on their traditional dress, yet they danced and sang and danced for hours in the hot sun. The variety of costumes was amazing.

Afterwards, on the field, took many more photos, though with around 200 other visitors also wanting to do the same thing, it was difficult to get a picture without other tourists in it.

Every tribe was impressive in its own way but my favorites, beside the huli wigmen with their distinctively painted faces, elaborately decorated wigs made of their own hair, multicolored legs, and “ass grass” or “arse grarse”, depending on your accent, were the mudmen, and the two groups of children, one--the flying foxes-- covered from head to toe in black charcoal with black trash bag wings attached to their back and arms that they flapped like bat wings as they ran, and the skeletons--again charcoal over their faces and bodies—but with white bones and skull face painted over the charcoal; they walked and danced disjointedly, like one imagines a skeleton would.

There were tribes there from as far away as the coast.

***

More tomorrow.

Eve

Wow! I can't wait to read more!

I'm really enjoying this, sounds like a great trip. I've looked at the Eldertreks brochures, but never booked with them. Interested to hear they worked out well.

PNG is another place that's high on my list. Glad you've decided to write a report.

Day 4: Waghi Valley. Avi village, Simbu courtship ritual. Overnight Hagen.
A fun day. First of all visited a village, looking at the well kept farm and their orchid forest.

Then on to watch the Simbu courtship rituals--the karim leg, kukim nus (literally translated into English would mean carry the leg, cook the nose). We even got to take part in it and two young women chose to throw their leg over my husband’s. But that was O.K., because I found a hunk of a guy to throw my leg over, sing, and rub noses with.

Day 5: To Enga province by road.
Today, while driving, we saw a field being planted with white (what they call English) potatoes. Instead of dividing the potato with an eye in each piece, the whole potato was planted.

Stopped in at a school—the children had never seen white people before (except in pictures) and were fascinated by us. The principal asked us if we would divide the group up into twos and each pair talk to a class of his students, which we did. As we walked back to the minibus, everyone poured out of the classrooms, following and laughing and crowding around us, wanting to touch our skin and have us say “hello” to them, then they’d giggle, put their hands over their mouth, and shyly turn their heads away. I felt like the Pied Piper.

After a boxed lunch, we visited a hut where the villagers (I think this was Opiyepul village) showed us the skulls and bones of ancestors. They put on a play for us showing how they fought, and how they tracked down a sorcerer who had killed a boy. Afterwards, we were invited to shoot arrows. My husband did fine, but mine just plopped to the ground two inches in front of me—either it’s harder than it looks, I’m a wimp, or both!

Day 6: Enga Province.
Supposed to be a very big birding area but, except for a some at the bird feeders at the Kumul Lodge, didn’t see many at all. Quiet day today. Probably just as well as several of us had a little touch of the Papua Poops. While doing a scenic drive this afternoon, we came across a bride price negotiation. Stopped for a while to watch.

Day 7: To Goroko by road. JK McCarthy Museum, Raun Raun Theatre.
The JK McCarthy Museum was fascinating. Among its exhibits: how salt was made, pottery styles, weapons, clothing , and the Leahy Wing which houses an interesting collection of photographs. The outside of the Raun Raun Theatre reminded me of Jabba the Hut. Inside it was beautifully made and carved of wood, with seats made out of tree trunks cut crosswise. Regret there was no performance scheduled.

Day 8: Goroko area: Asaro village.
The visit to the mudmen’s village on the Asaro River was a highlight. Their slow movements, grotesque masks, and clicking bamboo claws were eerie as, ghostlike, they materialized through the bushes and smoke of several strategically placed fires.

Have heard slightly differing stories of how their look came into being. The mud, as it dries and flakes off, looks like the decaying flesh of the dead. At the village we visited, we were told that when they were defeated by an opposing tribe, they ran away and hid in the Asaro River. Waiting until dusk, hoping their enemies had gone, they slowly and stealthily, covered in the clay mud, stole through the bushes to their village. The rival tribe was still there and thinking the ghostly spirits of the defeated tribe had come to get them, ran away in fear. As time went by, they started making the masks to add to their fearsome appearance, and the bamboo claws.

After a shopportunity, their best potter showed us how he made a small mask--I was surprised how long it took, and with how much care he modeled it. As we watched, the young man who chatted with me and took care of my purchases, said he had tried and tried to be able to do that but just didn’t have the skill. He said it is so much more difficult that it looks, so he is going to university to become an accountant.

Later in the afternoon, we visited a coffee factory and, of course, had to buy some packets of their coffee—such great memories as we drink a cup now we are back home.

Day 9: To Madang by road. Balek Wildlife Sanctuary. Overnight at Jais Aben Resort.
Glad we stopped by the wildlife sanctuary to see their eels and turtles and sulfur springs on the way to Madang--interesting enough but not worth driving out of the way to see. Would happily have stayed longer at the Jais Aben Resort.

Day 10: Flight to Wewak. Overnight Inwewak Hotel.
After watching the sun rise and a leisurely breakfast, we spent the morning in Madang. Saw a WWII Japanese anti-aircraft gun and the Coastwatchers Memorial, a working lighthouse. For much of the war, Madang was at the center of Japan’s New Guinea territory, so the coastwatchers, reporting on Japanese troop and ship movements, were in an extremely dangerous and vulnerable position. Thirty-six coastwatchers lost their lives. At the base, one of the plaques lists the names. The inscription beneath their namess: THEY WATCHED AND WARNED AND DIED THAT WE MIGHT LIVE.

Then a flight to Wewak, a nice town and I’d like to return there. The Inwewak Hotel was first class.

***

Tomorrow: Three days on the Sepik River.

YES!!!!

Cool! What did you think of the accommodations?

Hi Femi,

They were perfectly adequate, middle-of-the-road, accommodations, except for the Inwewak Boutique Hotel which was superb. Not of the caliber of the Ambua or Karawari lodges, but we weren't staying in those areas or traveling with Trans Nuigini Tours, this time.

Three days on the Sepik River. Overnights in village.
Our ElderTreks guide had paid for food, soft drinks, wine, beer and water for the trip. When we arrived at the village and the supplies were unpacked, found two small cans of tuna and luncheon meat, a couple of loaves of bread, beer and water. The six New Guinea Expeditions employees had been given a few packets of hardtack to live on. Our ElderTreks guide was resourceful and purchased food from the villagers, which we shared with the NGE employees.

Day 11: Drive to Pagwi, Sepik River.
Our two, very noisy, motorized canoes had each been hand hewn from tree trunks. Plastic chairs were provided for us to sit on, although we did sometimes change position by sitting on the bottom of the canoe.

At the village where we were originally to stay, our Eldertreks guide didn’t like the outhouse (too full and stinky) and arranged for us to sleep in a village across the river where they had just dug a new one; however, all the guys were fascinated with the “things” wriggling in it very close to the wooden seat—“The whole surface is moving! Come and look! It’s alive! Come and see!!” I’m game for most anything—but passed on that.

Visited Palimbe village and they did their crocodile dance for us.

That night the sky was overcast and it was pitch black everywhere except just around the fire. It was time for bed, and time to make a pit stop before climbing under the mosquito netting. The only light to guide me down the path was from my headlamp. (Scary music starts as victim opens the outhouse door--creeeeeaaaakkk.) Carefully, I lift the wooden seat to make sure there’s nothing under that will bite my bum. (Music builds.) Sit down gingerly on the wobbly throne, lift my head and the light strobes on--wham--horror music crescendo—the spider!!! A king kong of a spider. Bigger than Godzilla. The Outhouse Spider!!! Screeeeeeeeeaaaaammm!!!!

Never letting it out of my narrow beam of light, it stays unmoving on the door and doesn’t attack its quivering prey. After slowly and gingerly easing past it on my way out, I stumble back into the firelight and manage to stammer out the warning. After everyone stopped laughing, I’m told it’s quite harmless to humans and does a good job keeping the outhouse free of creepy crawlies. And, from the size of it, I’m sure that’s true. So….I head back with my camera and discover it’s really only as big as my outstretched hand (which is still plenty big IMHO). And, it’s going to have babies. From the number of eggs under it, there will be the patter of many, many, many little feet.

Day 12: Ainom, Chambri Lakes.
We had a fry-up for breakfast—fried slices of the canned pork luncheon meat, fried eggs, fried onions, fried sweet potatoes, even fried bread. Yum—my kind of breakfast.

Visited several more villages today including Aibom where a young woman showed us how they made their clay pots. Another village we stopped at had the most fantastic carvings.

Sleeping on the floor of a hut on stilts, next to the Sepik River was a great experience.

Day 13: Canoe back to Pagwi, then by road to Wewak. Overnight at Inwewak Hotel.
We saw a village this morning that had bullet holes in the trunks of the trees supporting the spirit house. They were made by U.S. planes during WWII when the village was occupied by Japanese troops. One of the young men I talked to said his father and the other old men tell horror stories of the cruelty of the Japanese during that time, which he had a difficult time believing because the Japanese who come to the village these days are their most favorite visitors--polite, pleasant and generous. He just couldn’t understand how they could be so different then, than now. I told him that war can make decent people do things they wouldn’t normally do and which, at a later time, they may very much regret having been involved in.

On our return to Wewak, the folks at the Inwewak cooked us a meal of traditional foods, including fried sago palm grubs. “Think of it as a shrimp” was how I managed to eat one. It was tough outside, squishy inside, and tasted like liquorice or aniseed. I don’t like liquorice, or aniseed flavors, or squishy insides, so didn’t try another.

Uhh, maybe not so cool afterall. I think I'm better off experiencing this vicariously, LOL. I'd have a really hard time getting down a sago palm grub. The Thai grub I choked down was a comparative piece of cake.

Ditto what Femi just said, lol. I HATE spiders. Had one drop on my face in bed and bite me when I was 7 years old. It was a brown cane spider and it left me traumatized when it comes to spiders. Loving all the details though

Aloha!

The spider tale sounds like South Africa. Two friends, on two different trips, had the same kind of spider tales. The difference was that the monster spiders were in their rooms strutting across the floor. My best friend has severe arachnophobia and had to get the spider, the size of her hand, out of her room herself. I'm the same when it comes to geckos, lizards, and snakes. I'd rather deal with the spiders. Smiles. Happy Travels!

Well, this does sound like a bit too much roughing it for Jeane and I. We have looked at Trans Niugini Tours for the May Tumbana show - seems to have less of the spiders and fried sago palm grubs and more up-market accomodations (the cost is also much higher). Much to our regret, it seems that however you do PNG, it requires a minimum of 3 weeks, especially if the itinerary includes Sydney.

Thanks for providing the one and only PNG trip report on this forum...

Like others, the spiders and grubs give me pause. But the cultural experiences are so wonderful, I keep asking myself whether I could do it.

Thank you, thank you for this report!

This is so inspiring -- looking forward to more.

Eating grubs was purely voluntary; it was only because some of our group wanted to have a meal of traditional foods we were offered them. And, me being me, was one of the few who tried them. I just figure, if other people like something, maybe I will too.

ekscrunchy, marya, thursdaysd, Thank you for your comments; glad you are enjoying this.

Femi, Oh, please don’t worry about spiders, this was the only one of this size we saw—and it was harmless to humans. And—you ate a Thai grub? Tell me more about that.

Guenmai, I’m so glad “my” spider wasn’t moving.

HawaiianT, what a horrible experience for you as a little child. You have a good reason to be scared of spiders—I don’t.

Craig, for a first trip I’d definitely go with Trans Niugini Tours (and we did!). We wanted to do more roughing it on our second trip. When we return (yes—we’re already thinking about a next trip), we’ll use Trans Niugini and do a custom tour. That May Tumbana show trip does look like a good one. But, you’re correct, even with only 3 days in Sydney, you’d still be gone 2 ½ weeks. Shame they don’t have their return departure day on the Sunday.

Kathie, of course you could do it—I’ve read your Borneo trip report!

Eve

Day 14: Fly from Wewak to Port Moresby. Rouna Falls, Bomana WW II cemetery.
Bomana cemetery is well kept, with a plaque showing the Kokoda Trail. I believe that megalomaniac, power hungry people who start wars such as WWII are truly, truly evil. I felt that way when I stood on Normandy Beach in France and couldn’t keep the tears away, and felt it here in so many places, too. We met a man from Tasmania whose dad had died on the Kokoda Trail. He was a newborn at the time so never knew his dad and was going on a group trek with some other Australians whose fathers had also died on the trail while trying to keep the Japanese troops from getting overland to Port Moresby. While we were in the Trobriands a few days later, one of the local men brought us an American soldier’s dog tag he’d found.

Day 15: Port Moresby. National Parliament, National Museum, Botanical Gardens, Hanuabada stilt village, fish market.
The National Museum was fascinating--they have done a fantastic job. We spent about an hour and I would have happily spent many more hours there.

The National Parliament is impressive, and the Botanical Gardens gave us a chance to see the Raggiana Bird of Paradise, the national bird.

The people of Hanuabada stilt village were most pleasant and showed us around. One of our group’s hat got blown off by the wind into the ocean and a boy of not more than eight immediately jumped in, swam after it, and brought it back. The people are live mostly from harvesting the sea.

Days 16, 17 and 18: Fly to Kiriwina Island, Trobriands. Overnights at Butia Lodge.
I hadn’t been expecting much for this part of the trip, and thoroughly enjoyed these three days. It had been raining a lot before we came and the locals were starting to be concerned about getting their planting done.

Most of the people look Polynesian, and their costumes (grass skirts for the women and simple bark loin coverings for the men) and dancing also reflect that—the body above the waist remains fairly stationary while the hips do the moving. They are softly spoken. They are scrupulously clean—never smelled one sweaty armpit. Unfortunately, like on the mainland, quite a few people do chew betel nut, so their teeth are discolored.

From what I could see, there is little opportunity for paid employment; the adults work their gardens, do a little fishing, and on occasion sell some of their crafts. The men do the carving, and very highly skilled it is, too. I saw some exquisite work, the wood highly polished, carefully carved, much with inlaid mother of pearl.

Some of the things we did: had lunch on the beach; took outrigger rides; watched school kids in traditional dress dance; saw structures where yams are stored and saw one huge yam, must have been all of 5 foot long, being carried down the road by two young men; spent some time with villagers who were getting ready for a memorial ceremony and feast in remembrance of their chief’s brother who had died the previous year, with baskets and baskets of banana leaf money stacked around the village central ground; visited the local hospital and a school; and on our final evening the staff of the Butia Lodge put on a cultural show for us.

We all got very good at pretending we couldn’t feel the little hands of preschool children touching our legs, I suppose to see if the white would rub off, and then hearing their mothers or older children gently scolding them. I’m glad we all knew that the excited shouts of “Dimdim! Dimdim!” by the children, didn’t mean what it sounds like to us, although it may have been correct.

Day 19: Kiriwina. Fly to Port Moresby.
It was pelting down with rain while we were waiting for our plane to arrive to fly us back to Port Moresby, and there was some question whether it would be able to land but the rain did ease off enough for it to do so.

Back in Port Moresby, New Guinea Expeditions didn’t arrange or pay for accommodation or food for their guide, who had been with us throughout the trip. He knew no one in Port Moresby (he’s from the Mt. Hagen area). Fortunately our ElderTreks guide found this out when he asked where he would be staying so they could coordinate the times for getting our group and our luggage to the airport the next morning. Our ETG made arrangements for him to stay in the second bed in our ETG’s room, and he ate with us.

After a goodbye party, it was time to return to our rooms and do some last minute rearranging. Surprisingly enough, of the three mudmen statues I bought, only one needed surgery to reattach an arm and a leg. As carefully as my husband had packed them, I still hadn’t believed they’d make it without being in a thousand pieces.

Day 20: Fly home.
Another long, but uneventful--the best kind--trip home.


Odds and Ends:

A fruit I ate for the first time on this trip was the pommelo—I really gorged on them. The fruit looked like grapefruit but with fatter whatever-you-call-the-juicy-little-globes-that-are-inside, and didn’t have a grapefruit taste--very mellow and refreshing. I bought some from the supermarket when I returned home but, although similar in looks, they were more tart and grapefruity tasting. I’ve since read that when grown here in the USA, they do taste more like grapefruit and it was suggested this might be because of the difference in soil.

While on Kiriwina, I couldn’t get used to being encouraged to eat all the crab I wanted, and there were heaping platters of it. Here in Colorado it is horrendously expensive, but I suppose there it is cheap eats.

Papua New Guinea is an expensive place to visit; however, the logistics of getting around in a timely manner requires flying between many places. I’ve been to over twenty countries and this was my second visit to PNG, but, unless I was just going to stay in one place such as Madang, I wouldn’t dream of not using a local tour operator. For first time visitors, I’d strongly suggest Trans Niugini (or a company that uses them for their land operator, such as AsiaTranspacific Journeys). They’ve been in business a long time, are highly reputable and knowledgeable, and you definitely get what you pay for with them. Their whole operation is first class.

If you can make it to PNG, the experience, both under and above water, is unforgettable.

Thanks for the great report. I didn't realise pommelos might taste different elsewhere. As you mentioned, they taste like grapefruit here, but now I know to give them a try if I come across them in a different region. Same goes for Custard apples, known here as cherimoyas. I thought they were fantastic and couldn't get enough while I was in Asia, not so here at home.

I walked into a shop on the road between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, and sitting at the desk a little girl was steadily working her way through what looked like a bowl of mini french fries. Turns out they were lightly toasted grubs. It took quite a bit of courage to finally put one in my mouth. I think I *might* have taken a liking to them if it weren't that I could feel every body segment and the dozens of leg buds on my tongue. Crispy on the outside, not much to the inside...

Preview button not working, is it just my computer?

LOL, Eve, of course you're right that we could do it. But I often have that initial reaction when I read of an adventure like this. Would I sample the grubs? Who knows!

Thank you so much for your report and for the tour company recommendation.

Thanks for the wonderful report! Our %-day trip on the Sepik was MUCH tamer than yours. We visited loads of villages and saw great dances, little plays put on by the villagers and terrific carvings, we went back to air-conditioned comfort afterwards. I passed on the grubs, though they were a bargain a 3 for less than a penny at the market. The sago pancake I tried in one of the villages was not something I'd care to repeat, and it's unfortunate that they use this as a staple of their diet since it has little nutrition.

I leave for PNG in 3 weeks, but unfortunately won't see much on land, only the wonderful reefs.

Oops - make that 5-day, not %- day.

susncrg--I loved our "tame" first visit, wouldn't have had our first trip there any other way. We went on the Sepik Spirit and it was wonderful. Also stayed at the Karawari Lodge--fabulous. Where did you stay on the Sepik? Are you diving on your upcoming trip? Have you done that before?

We were on a boat out of Madang, that I believe no longer does the Sepik trip, the Melanesian Discoverer. Stopped in Murik Lakes in Mendam village, Angoram, Tambanum, Kamindibit, Palimbei, Yenchen and Ambon. We loved everything except the incredible heat. I would recommend it to anyone wantring to go to PNG.

Yes we are diving - that's the real purpose for the trip. The last two trips were in Kimbe Bay and this time will be Milne Bay. Have you dived there?

I think you're correct--the Melanesian Discover is no more. I don't know how that boat was, but the Sepik Spirit was magnificient.

Haven't dived Milne Bay--maybe next time. We dived Kimbe Bay on the FeBrina. Great liveaboard and crew. I'd be very interested in your comparison of diving in the two areas when you return.

We are avid snorkelers who do some diving. We have been through much of Thailand, Malaysia, Great Barrier, Central America, etc. Will the snorkeling top or equal the Great Barrier Reef, Simillan Islands, Koh Tao, Prehentians, if you have been to any of the?
Also being in our mid-60's we are concerned about the very limited highly qualified physicians available within 30-60 minutes for treatment. Do you have any observation on that matter?
Thanks.

Wow, this is a fascinating report, thank you for posting ! How about some photos, please ????

StanKase: Haven't dived any of the places you have, except Central America. I've heard it's comparable to the Great Barrier Reef, though I imagine it depends where you dive on the GBR or around PNG. The Solomons were maybe a tad better, at least comparing the trips we took, but both places were superb. Would go back to either in a heartbeat.

As far as medical--we used DAN, as members. Fortunately never had to use it. We talked to DAN and also the dive operators with questions like you have, and got satisfactory answers. We used DAN rather than one of the other travel insurance companies because of their vast experience with divers and diving problems.

Kellyee21--Will work on this. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm looking forward to when we can post photos with our travel reports here on Fodors.

O.K., I've finally got pictures up! The link goes to the trip report, same as above but with some minor corrections, and with pictures. Then you can click to links on the side navigation bar to get to more pictures, or from the bottom of the page. I tried to get the pages with the montage of pictures to just fill the screen but wasn't able to do this, it was way too big, so put in a small picture which you can click on to see the much bigger one.

http://sites.google.com/site/evecolorado/Home

Once again, thank you, everyone, for all your good comments and support.

Hi Eve,

Wanted to touch base after visiting PNG with Trans Niugini (Greg Stathakis out of Santa Barbara) for the Tumbuna Show. What a blast! Ten of us, all together, and it went like
clockwork. Greg does a fantastic job, covering all bases at all times. The Tumbuna
was very intimate (12 groups participating). Asia-Transpacific was the only other
tour there. LOTS of photo opportunities, with a great deal of local cooperation!
Spent 3 days (pre-tour) in Sydney & finished with 2 days in Cairns, visiting the GBR.
Trip of a lifetime!

Pete

Glad this thread got topped because I missed your pictures the first time around. Wow!