Ok, 24 days starting in Boston and 5 days in BH. That gives you about 19 days remaining - giving you one day to travel to BH from Boston.

BH to New Brunswick - if you like scenery and potential for moose sightings, I would suggest you hug the coastline and travel from Saint John to Fundy National Park. St. Martin, Alma are beautiful spots. Great hiking in the park, low tides at the rocks. Two days in this area.

Take the Confederation Bridge to PEI. The Cavendish area is nice - beautiful beaches. Spend a couple of days exploring the Island - not far from anything really. Charlottetown is 20 minutes away.

Take the ferry to Nova Scotia. Pictou county also has beautiful beaches,some great hiking trails. Or if you want to travel directly to Cape Breton and not in a huge hurry, take the turn off at Sutherland's River and travel towards Antigonish on the mini cabot trail. It is a lovely drive. You are about a days drive to Cape Breton if not in a hurry. Spend the night in Cheticamp. From there you can hike Skyline. You can also break up your trip around the trail by staying around Keltic Lodge and then the next night in Baddeck. Louisbourg is a fantastic historic site - so majestic - it really shouldn't be missed. So you have now probably spent about 5 days exploring Cape Breton Island.

Peggy's Cove really only warrants an afternoon. The surrounding area though, it beautiful - Mahone Bay, Chester, Lunenburg, Rose Bay, The Ovens. Halifax itself is a great city to explore. You could spend a couple days here, giving you time to travel to Quebec City for your conference.

Hope I haven't rambled too long.

Oh yes, I forgot to mention - probably your best possibility of seeing a moose is during your trip around the Cabot Trail. Typically in the higher regions.

I really like Tanya's itinerary. The only change I wld make is that I wld tour the Cabot Trail in a counter-clockwise direction as opposed to beginning in Cheticamp & taking the clockwise route. But, this is simply a matter of personal preference. Many prefer the clockwise route!

I have spent years & years in Cape Breton & I have never seen a moose!( except the ones on the bottles of Moosehead beer). I tend to agree w/ your DH's assessment! If you want to see moose, go to NL.

I saw 7 Moose in two days on the Cabot trail, 6 the same day. They should be relatively easy to see on the high plateaux and the skyline trail. Tracks are everywhere. Of course, you reduce your chance if you drive pass once at 80km/h. Damn and dusk are best.

Jacques-Cartier park near Quebec City is a good place to see Moose. They're often in the river.

On my many visits to Nova Scotia and living in Cape Breton, I have seen a moose once on the Skyline Trail.
Now if you visit NL you are almost guaranteed to see lots.

Thanks guys! Re reading this I probably sound like the international visitors to Oz who expect to see kangaroos wandering down suburban streets! Then again, oceanbreeze is with me on this.

Tanya, your itinerary gives me food for thought, I hadn't thought of doing PEI first. So basically I can't really make it work by staying in a cottage for 5 days in one place on Cape Breton Island? Sounds like the idea is to move along. I will have to look at the places you recommend on the map when I get home from work.

My idea with the cottage near Peggy's Cove was to 'do' the southern part of NS from there - is that reasonable?

LOL @ Kangaroo humor there.

I like Tanya's itinerary too... and let me add a touch of personal flavor to her offering:

Once you get your travel window set in stone, go to the following table and print out the TIDE TABLES for perhaps 3 or 4 spots on this map, for the entire window of time you'll be in the New Brunswick/Nova Scotia area.

Include "Hopewell Cape" for sure, and perhaps Burntcoad Head or Truro in addition.

The TIDES in the Bay of Fundy are incredible (Google "Flower Pot Rocks" to get the full effect) and you should definitely visit Hopewell Cape (which IS the location of the "Flower Pot Rocks") at low tide.

In other spots, seeing both high tide and low tide from the same point would be most ideal, but with 6 hours between extremes it helps to have the tide table and time things so you can see the opposite effect on a return trip.

Get ready for the look of large, ocean vessels sitting on the bottom of the ocean floor while moored to a dock, as they await high tide a few hours later at which point they can be taken back out to sea.

Finally, I feel that you should really concentrate on the northern/central parts of NS in addition to PEI and NB.

If I were going to visit the southern reaches of NS, most of my interests would be on the Fundy side of the province and thus Peggy's Cove wouldn't make for the most ideal base camp.

For Peggy's Cove, you go there, you have dinner at the restaurant by the light house, you look at the live lobster in the tank, buy a souvenir, have your photo taken on the rocks near the light house (in the gloom or fog), you admire the quaint fishing village appeal, and then you move on.

I have been to Newfoundland several times and only once saw the tail end of a moose going down an embankment. I have however, seen moose in the highlands of Cape Breton simply standing on the side of the road. Word of caution, don't get out of your car and walk close to take pics! Moose will charge and believe me, you won't be able to get out of the way unless there is a tree close by to climb. As with any wild animal, please respect their surroundings and recognize they are protecting their habitat.

Hi Tanya, I will have the utmost respect for Mr Moose if I happen across him/her don't worry!

I have looked at some accommodation at Alma that looks good (Cliffside suites..?) thanks for identifying Alma, it looks great.

DH is not keen on overnight stops - is it at all conceivable to cover Cape Breton Island from one place or would that simply involve too much backtracking? If it is possible, where would you suggest? (I had my eye on a great cottage in Skir Dhu but have just missed out!)

Thanks again.

Laugh - here is the link for tide tables in the Bay of Fundy:


http://www.lau.chs-shc.gc.ca/cgi-bin/tide-shc.cgi?queryType=showZone&language=english&region=5&zone=30

Thanks NorthwestMale, most helpful. By the way, I just missed a kangaroo on the way home from work yesterday! We are a bit rural though.

To do Cape Breton from one location, I would choose Baddeck. This would mean doing the trail in one day though - doable, but not enough time to hike. Baddeck is a beautiful small village that burgeons in the summer months with visitors who fell in love with the spot and return each summer(a lot of them buying property). Situated on the Bras d'or lakes, it is at the bottom of the trail. Counterclock wise around the trail would take you to Inverness, Keltic Lodge, Pleasant Bay, Cheticamp and then track back through Mabou to Baddeck.

The Telegraph House used to rent out their "McNeil House" which has 3 bedrooms, 1.5 baths. Maybe too big for you, but located in the heart of the village and walking distance to everything.

Alexander Graham Bell museum is a must. There used to be a gentleman who did boat tours from the marina. I can't remember his name, but he was so knowledgeable about the Bell family which made our visit the next day to the museum, that much more interesting. Mr. Bell's original house still stands and I believe family members still own it.

Thanks Tanya, I am looking at somewhere in Margaree Valley which I think would serve the same purpose but will check out McNeill House as well. You really helped put timing into perspective so many thanks again!

Rather than "Doing The Trail" in one day (it's a long day) why not head out from Baddeck in a counter-clockwise direction?
Take your time. When you arrive in Ingonish, spend the rest of the day & the following morning enjoying the Ingonish area. Stay overnight in Ingonish. We love Keltic Lodge (the main lodge, NOT The Inn).

Wow, Tannya keeps hitting on all cylinders... Baddeck is what I usually suggest too.

And the one potential reason for not doing the Ingonish thing as suggested by Ocean Breeze, is the part where she said: "DH is not keen on overnight stops".

We have completed the trail counterclock wise from Baddeck. We departed around 7am and stopped at the base of the route for breakfast at a little diner on the water. We stopped a couple of times and did a quick hike, before arriving at Keltic Lodge. We stopped at Pleasant Bay and tried to decide if we had time to do a whale watching tour. Did the whale watching museum. Stopped at the top of Pleasant Bay and enjoyed watching whales off the shore (oh yes, bring your binoculars). We stopped at Skyline but didn't hike. (we may have stopped at a couple more spots along the trail just to see the view) Tried to get into the Cheticamp pub for a bite to eat, but on a Saturday afternoon the place was jammed - local music. We did have a meal in Cheticamp and then drove back to Baddeck. I think we arrived around 8pm. So while not a lot of time, you get a good feel for the trail and what it has to offer.

I guess...if that's the way you want to do it. But, it's just not for me. I like to take my time. But, obviously everybody is different. I missed the part about DH not wanting to do an "overnight" stop.

To me, the Ingonish are is the most enjoyable part of the Cabot Trail. I like to spend as much time as possible there. I would miss so much if I just "passed through it". The beaches alone require at least an afternoon for me! And, Middlehead Trail needs time (for me).

But, hey, if you like to head out at 7:00AM & "drive & stop" for 13 hours, then go for it!

Hi everyone, thanks for all tips - this is what I am thinking...

Original week booked in Bar Harbor
2 nights Alma, probably Cliffside Suites
3 nights PEI (any suggestions?)
5 nights Margaree Valley - visit Cabot Trail from both sides, plus Distillery, Louisbourg, Baddeck
4 nights Peggy's Cove environs
2 days (one overnighter ? where) to get to Quebec City for conference.

I have lived in the maritimes all my life and have only seen moose in the early morning..whether it is Cape Breton or in NB just before the bridge to PEI...had one run out in front of our car last week on a trip to maine shopping...at 7:30am...enjoy your vacation...sounds like a wonderful trip...on PEI there are lots of self catering cottages in Cavendish but try not to spend all your time there..the Island is much quieter and scenic west or east of there.

How many nights in the maritimes is that, and not a one in Halifax???

That's unfair (to yourself)!!


Peggy's Cove is less than 30 miles from Halifax, and while I can see spending a good day or two touristing between there and Lunenburg, even Lunenburg is only 62 miles from Halifax.

If you are coming all that way, then it just makes better sense to stay in Halifax, as a base camp, and then AD-LIB when the time comes, in terms of how much time you want to spend at Peggy's Cove / Lunenburg.

It MIGHT evolve to where you schedule a dinner and a long evening at Peggy's Cove one night, and then spend a separate day of your trip in Lunenburg.

Sunset will happen at 9:00pm each night, and the days will be loooooooooong...

In Halifax you will always be near SOMEthing to do... and that could really help on those mornings/nights when you need to plan on the fly...

Note: A grand feature of Halifax is that it isn't on the WAY to anywhere, and thus, as is the case with most of the maritime provinces, they AREN'T over-run by society. So staying in central Halifax doesn't subject you to as much hustle and bustle as in most North American cities.

If you become intrigued by my high tide information in the Bay of Fundy, "Truro" is only 60 freeway miles and one hour away from Halifax. (where if you are 'buried' farther south toward Lunenburg, you wouldn't have as many easy alternatives if time becomes available)


As for the overnight spot between Halifax and QC... I guess I would pick Fredericton... it is fairly central... leaving time on both sides for daylight sightseeing.

And BTW, I love the drive along the St. Lawrence River on either side of QC.

ALSO, if given the chance... driving along the north shore of the Bay of Fundy from Truro to Parrsboro is pleasant... (unless you're trying to save time by staying on #104 highway)

Anyway, do consider Halifax for your lodging... so you can spend your listed "4 nights" in a central spot, and "DH" won't be stuck in a relatively remote place down the coast. Halifax is just more convenient...

Oh yeah, regarding your Cabot Trail run... and 5 nights in the Baddeck area...

The first day you awaken to clear skies, you get up and haul A** to the Cabot Trail... because the fog can occasionally render it view-less. So lucky for you that you have a window of opportunity built-in.

Thanks northwest male - but I found a great cottage near Peggy's Cove!!! Could we not visit Halifax from there?
Trying to factor in a couple of days of just R&R prior to our conference in QC.

Yes, you can visit Halifax from Peggy's Cove. Where is the "great cottage"?

http://www.vrbo.com/252951
St Margaret's bay?

Hope you do trip report...always looking for a good cottage in this area..

Thanks jannieween, will do, any suggestions for particular cottages on PEI? We will be a little restricted by our short stay (3 days) there I suspect.

St. Margaret's Bay is a hop, skip and a jump into Halifax. Just don't try to do it during rush hour traffic which can be very heavy to and from that location.

As for PEI, mmm, it is hard to rent a cottage for only a few days. Most will want a week, esp. the closer you get to July 1st.

Thanks Tanya, may have to try B&B or similar on PEI I think.

check the PEI tourism website for cottages....things here don't get busy till July usually...I would try the Cavendish area...lots of cottages and its pretty central for day trips.

In Cavendish, we have stayed at Anne's Windy Poplars. She may do a few days for you. Great location and your stay gives you a pass to the beach area. You are 20 minutes from Charlottetown tops.

Ozgirl,

I liked the Duchess of Kent B&B in Charlottetown. The home, built in 1875, was just my cup of tea (wallpapered, period furniture and artwork), but wouldn't be for someone who likes things ultra-modern. The proprietress is just lovely and was so helpful to everyone I noticed, truly taking the time out to tailor the vacation to each visitor's interests. (She had cycling guides ready for us upon arrival, knowing that THIS was our primary reason for visiting PEI!) Sharyn is a character and provided a delightful dose of humanity in an often cold and impersonal modern era.

Everything's so compact in Charlottetown, I really felt it to be an ideal base. You're within walking distance of the harbour, Province House, Victoria Park, numerous seafood restaurants, a grocery store, cycle shops... Anyhow, there are tons of great choices on PEI, so have fun deciding!

DAN

HI - I'm getting my 2 cents worth into this thread a little late, but was in NS and NB in August/September (about 5 or 6th visit) so here are some thoughts, some of which will be repetitive:
- Cliffside Suites in Alma are beautiful with spectacular views. We planned to eat out but instead got supplies in town and ate on our deck both nights. Fundy National Park next door has some interesting drives and walking trails and you can daytrip to Hopewell Rocks from here (try to visit these at low tide if you can't do both tides).
- I would have agreed with others to stay elsewhere than Peggy's Cove and just visit there - but you say you have a nice cottage in the area so that should be fine. Daytrip up and down the Lighthouse Route for more charming villages and some beautiful (if cold) beaches - including some "hidden gems" as you get farther from Halifax (ask around) where you can beachcomb, stroll and picnic with hardly anyone else around.
- I like Halifax and it's definitely worth at least a day - especially around the vibrant Harbour area with boardwalk, museums, shops (Historic Properties), pubs, Saturday Market, etc. Evenings here can be lively with live music.
- When I visit Cape Breton I like to make a point of staying on the water for a "seaside vacation" experience. Spectacular scenic drives, nice nature walks and hikes, Celtic and some Acadian culture. A lot of people like Baddeck but I usually stay in the Ingonish area (again aiming for that "seaside vacation" feel).
- I've seen a number of Moose in NS - most often when you don't want to, e.g. while driving the switchbacking roads of Cape Breton Highlands in the dim light of dusk or dawn and suddenly one walks right in front of you (take care). I have also seen Moose on NS hiking trails a couple of times.
- For an overnight between Peggy's Cove and Quebec City, Fredericton was suggested and is fine but last time we stayed, for the first time, in the smaller town of Miramichi at the Rodd Hotel Resort and it was very nice, good room, good restaurant, good service. It is near Kouchibouguac National Park which might be worth a stop, also the Bouctouche Dunes aren't far.

Tanya, I am surprised that you require a "pass" to the beach! I thought all PEI beaches were public property!

mat54, Where do you stay in Ingonish?

OceanBreeze1 - on this last visit we rented a private cottage for a week (which was their minimum unfortunately). http://www.vrbo.com/222318

OceanBreeze1...you require a pass to the National park in Cavendish to go to the beach...all other beaches are public and there are many that are nicer.

Thanks guys, really appreciate your generous thoughts and advice, will look into the latest suggestions, glad to hear positive view of Cliffside Suites as I thought it looked good on website.
Will look into Charlottetown and PEI suggestions also, thank you everyone.

OK - I'll sign-off on the cottage near Peggy's Cove... at least it is north of where it could be, and thus central Halifax won't be too distant.

But don't go all that way and not give Halifax its due. I can't quite place its uniqueness, but it is a combination of NOT being overrun by society, being old, and having five universities.

Halifax is just... always pleasant (even when it is socked-in by fog as thick as pea soup).

Go round-trip on the cute little passenger ferry from Halifax to Dartmouth.

Thanks Northwest Male, I feel so relieved that you are comfortable with 'my' cottage! lol
Halifax is definitely on my 'to do' list don't worry - and help from people like yourselves who have taken time to reply is invaluable when one is half a world away.
I am looking forward to comparing your lobster with our 'crayfish' which is on the menu for Christmas lunch!
Thanks again.

Oh yeah, at certain times, the McDonalds' in Nova Scotia serve the "McLobster Sandwich"!!


LOL

just thought I would "chime in" that the Digby neck & islands is "world class" for whale-watching (zodiacs or fishing boats). I know there is whale watching in Australia (have been) but alot of people never get to do the "tourist thing" close to home!

(ferry from Saint John to Digby OR MAYBE they'll have ferry from Maine to Nova Scotia again)

also, summer cottages on the coast, would be about half price of bar harbor.

can provide more info on either if you are interested.

tom

I would agree with the previous post that you should for sure include the Fundy Trail, that starts in St. Martins, and Fundy National Park and then The Rocks in Hopewell Cape. Since you will be driving by, a diversion to Grand Manan just after you cross from Maine is a very beautiful place. It was years since I was last there, but hope to return very soon. You can sometimes see whales right from the car ferry to the island. The upper Bay of Fundy is also a beautiful place, and if into geological history at all be sure to visit Joggins which has a new interpretive centre and a beach where everyone can find a fossil, really! (but you must leave them there, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site). I have put together 15 must-see Bay of Fundy vacation ideas if you have time for a longer visit. See it on my blog at http://bayfundy.blogspot.com/2010/11/your-bay-of-fundy-checklist.html. Have a wonderful vacation! Bob

Oh I meant to add, re "maybe a moose" that if you are in Fundy National Park (we visit there a lot - have hiked every m of every trail, many many times over) the place that I have most regularly seen moose is the Caribou Plain Trail that is an easy few km flat walk in the highlands of the park. There is a beaver caused pond, and near that often a moose or two. Also, along the main roads in that area. Clearly there are moose elsewhere in the park, but that is the location we have seen most. Enjoy this beautiful area! Bob

Thanks guys, great additional information and resources, particularly the moose tip!! Tom are you aware of any plans for the ferry to NS or just wishful thinking?

Hi - The responses to your trip were so great, I saved it! We are planning a trip for 2012 and I would love to hear how your trip turned out!