I can't say I "know" Havana having only been once, but I can say that we enjoyed staying the Parque Central because of the fantastic location with many bars/restaurants being within walking distance. It is walking distance to Old Havana as well. Breakfast was impressive (for Havana).

Thanks, Odin. I looked more closely at a map of the city and it seems that the Parque Central is in a better (more central) location, so I'm definitely leaning towards that hotel.

Was your room OK?

Yes the room was very nice, quite large with king bed and modern clean bathroom, the hotel bar was good as well, great cocktails. Had one evening meal which was not very good, although breakfast was great. Loved the rooftop swimming pool, great views over the city.

Thanks for your input, Odin. I think I'll go ahead and book the Parque Central.

Yes, while the Melia is a nice hotel, it's still a $5 cab ride from the Old City. You'll want to be at the Parque Central for it's location, and it's a good hotel as well. I'm flying down on Nov 30th and will be right next door at the Plaza Hotel.

There are two noted Jazz clubs in Havana and here's the info on them. Ironically, one is right across the street from the Melia Cohiba but I'd still take the Parque Central location for perference.

Jazz Café
Gallerias del Paseo, Avenida Primera (First) and Paseo, second floor, Vedado Tel: 855-3475
Irakere (Chucho Valdez’ group) often plays here, along with other famous Cuban groups. There are two sets nightly at 8:00 and 11:00pm. There’s no cover but there is a $10CUC “consumo minimo,” which is pretty easy to accomplish, especially if you go for dinner and stay for the show. The food is reasonable and there are also snacks and drinks are just $2. The atmosphere is more sophisticated that La Zorra y El Cuervo and it has a more open spacious feel.

La Zorra y el Cuervo (“The Fox and the Crow”)
Calle 23 #156, between O andrising N Vedado. Tel: 866-2402
This is the most well known jazz club in Havana and the place to hit if you want to catch some of Cuba’s A-list jazz performers. This smoky basement club has a laid back, unpretentious vibe. Cover is usually $10 and drinks are inexpensive. This club has a long history in Havana’s Latin jazz scene and a reputation of featuring virtuoso musicians on any given night. There‘s always has a mixed crowd of foreigners, Cubans and other musicians. It’s in a great location in Vedado and since the club is so compact, it makes for an intimate experience.

Now, if you're just local to the Parque Central Hotel and want to get out for a quick drink and some great music, check out Bar Monseratte which is a quick 5 minute walk away, and perfectly safe to walk to any time of day or night. It's on Monserratte at the corner of Obrapia.
For a great dinner close by, ask the front desk to direct you to Los Nardos, which is directly across the street from the Capitolio front steps, and up on the second floor. Again, less than a 5 minute walk to get there.

Oh, and in Parque Central (the park, not the hotel) directly outside the Parque Central Hotel, if you see a large group of men arguing loudly, don't worry. That is THE place in Havana where Cubans get together to argue about.... of all things.... baseball. They are very passionate about their beisbol!!! You're not walking into trouble, and it's fun to stand and watch the show.

Anything else.. just ask.
Steve

Thanks so much, Steve, this is just the kind of information we need. My husband and I love jazz, and will definitely be checking out the places you mentioned.

Just last night, a friend was telling us that when he visited Havana he thought he had stumbled into the start of a revolution when he came upon a group of men arguing loudly in the Parque Central, until he figured out the argument was about baseball. I'm looking forward to such cultural experiences.

Oh, what about salsa? Any recommendations for places to take a beginner's class, or just watch Cubans dance? Also, would you suggest we take any particular tours, or just wander on our own? Do any guide books or websites offer itineraries to explore? From reading other threads on Cuba, I appreciate your expertise.

Hola baladeuse

Glad to be of help. Ok, here's a few slideshow links, plus a link (a bit out of date, keep meaning to update it but no time) of a day tour of Havana. Now it's set up for someone coming from Varadero by cab for a day, but will give you some ideas. Also links to a couple of blog type threads I wrote on another travel forum from some of my past trips. Read between the lines and it might help you some.

Havana - Dusk to Dawn
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y55/Steve_YYZ/Habana%20-%20Dusk%20to%20Dawn/?albumview=slideshow

Cuba Images Slideshow (Havana, Vinales & General)
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y55/Steve_YYZ/2008_Trip/?albumview=slideshow

Trinidad Slideshow
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y55/Steve_YYZ/Trinidad-1/?albumview=slideshow

Touring Havana Itinarary
http://www.7daysinparadise.com/smf/index.php?topic=6052.0

Feb 2008 Trip Blog with Photos
http://www.7daysinparadise.com/smf/index.php?topic=6374.0

Feb 2009 Trip (Parts 1 & 2)
http://www.7daysinparadise.com/smf/index.php?topic=7543.0
http://www.7daysinparadise.com/smf/index.php?topic=7634.0#new


Now, as to tours. Every hotel desk has a tour desk, but one of the great bargains in Havana is the Hop-on-hop-off bus that runs along predicted routes. Here's a map of the routes a friend of mine made. I don't know the price, but it's one fare for all day and very reasonable. It's a double-deck bus so you can sit up top and see the sights and enjoy the breeze.

Havana Hop-On-Off Bus
http://g.co/maps/9r29u
Blue - T1 stops
Yellow - T2 stops
Green - T3 stops
Flags mark points where routes intersect

As to books, by all means get a good book or two. I personally like the book "Cuba Handbook" by Christopher Baker (Moon Publishing) and also the Lonely Planet Cuba Guide. Lonely Planet also has a City Guide for Havana that is ideal for guiding yourself around the city. Good maps, listings of restaurants, sights, etc.
As with any books, don't buy them on the day you leave. Buy them NOW and start reading so you'll be prepared when you land.

Now, as to understanding money in Cuba, I'd suggest you read this helpful thread by a friend of mine Bellagio. Great information.
http://www.tripadvisor.ca/ShowTopic-g147270-i91-k4360860-All_you_need_to_know_about_Cuban_currency-Cuba.html

Salsa:
I don't dance due to a birth defect..... two left feet!!!! LOL!!!
Seriously, lots of dance clubs etc and here's a listing from Cuba Absolutely....
http://www.cubaabsolutely.com/articles/intertaiment/intertaiment.php?landa=2

So.... you've got a couple of hours reading all the links. Grab yourself a nice tall cold beer and away you go. Anything more, just ask.

Steve

We wandered on our own around Havana using a guidebook. We stopped at various cafes where people were really interested to talk to us. For excursions further afield, we negotiated the fare with a taxi outside the hotel (eg Ernest Hemingway's house).

I'd recommend eating at least a couple of times at a paladar. I think there is salsa at the Melia Cohiba.

This is fantastic information, Steve. I will definintely set some time aside to go through everything in detail. No cold beer right now, though, since I'm at work on my lunch hour. But I feel like I will be so well prepared after checking out all your links.

You guys have been great. Thank you both.

BTW Steve, how do you take those amazing night time photos? Awesome photography!

LOL Baladeuse..... I spent 20 years working as a Photojournalist and corporate photographer. My career has taken me strictly into the business world now, but photography is one of the major reasons I travel. I still like to just go out and capture something different. Some day maybe a book on Havana en la Noche! Meanwhile thanks for your kind appreciation of my efforts.
I'll be back in Havana in just over 5 weeks time and plan to get out and wander some more at night looking for images that attract my eye.