I don't know how to make this short, but will do my best. Got lots of help from this forum. We are a family of 5, celebrating my DH and my 50th b-days, and daughter #2 graduating college and getting hired! Other daughter is 25, son is 16. We rented a house in Esperanza, about half a mile to waterfront (Malecon). Owner had a small Geo Tracker that we rented from her for the week. Only regret of the whole trip was that decision. It was 2 door and tiny, not good for 5 adults. We should have asked more about it and rented a 4 door jeep. But, it made for lots of jokes, and it made it to every beach we attempted to see!
The weather was hot and quite cloudy mixed with sun. It rained every day, very heavy but for short periods. Felt like a tropical rain forest all week. The clouds were actually welcome, since our NE white skin could not have taken a full week of sun. We never went out without SPF 30 or higher, and all came back very tan. Our house had AC, but we were the only ones in the town who had it on. Everyone had windows open. The roosters, stray cats and dogs, horses, were all very charming, we loved that part of it.
We just were amazed with each beach we discovered. They are all so beautiful, and there is practically no one around. It feels like your own survivor island. And the trek into some of them felt like a scene from Jurassic park; tiny sand roads with huge ruts and puddles.....you definitely need 4 wheel drive. We are all beach people and loved snorkeling at each beach we visited. Our best luck was out to the left of Red beach, my son followed a large sea turtle for about 15 minutes, and the fish were such vivid colors.
We brought too much with us, our house had beach chairs, umbrellas, coolers, snorkel equpment for 4, water shoes for 6, laundry available. There were plenty of little stores on the island, and I didn't think prices were too bad. ie: $10 for sunscreen instead of $8 at home. You definitely need to keep mosquito repellent with you at all times. We did, but still got lots of bites, not bad enough to bother anyone, though.
I will continue with part 2............
Just back from a fantastic week in Vieques, PR
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I forgot to say how easy the travel was for us. Direct from Balt to SanJuan on AirTran. Then a cab to Isla Grande airport about 15 min away, and then Vieques AirLink to the island. We all especially loved that flight over that lasts about 25 minutes, but flies low and just gorgeous views of Puerto Rico, beaches, and Vieques! We had the same pilot for both flights, and our daughters got to sit in the co-pilot seat. Then, once on Vieques, called a cab for 15 minute ride to our rental on other side of the island.
More to come..........
THanks for the report! It's been a few years now that I've been to Vieques but I certainly remember it fondly. Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Excellent! Glad to hear you had a great trip and loved the part of the horses, dogs, roosters! The roosters crowed at 3am every morning for us. Made for early mornings. And, the wild horses were charming, too.


I just love Vieques and like hearing you and your family enjoyed it, too.
Keep it coming!
We chose to do the BioBay tour with Abe's (kayaking). For a 2 hour time span it was $30/person. Since there were late afternoon storms every day, we kept putting it off. Finally with 2 nights left, I booked it. We had completed the first hour, which is meeting, rubbing down with all natural bug repellent (must have no lotions or chemicals on to swim in bay), riding the 15 minutes to the bay, getting suited up with life jackets, kayaks, etc, paddling out to the middle, listening to about 10 minutes of info, when a storm blew up so fast that all 10 of us were huddled together, torrential rain and wind, then thunder and lightning. The guide screamed to paddle back as fast as possible, following the other guide who had a lantern. It was quite intense, but I guess safety first! What an experience, they gave us the cash back (cash only for them) and said we could come back the next night. We did, there was no rain, and we enjoyed it so much, all in the water watching the dinoflagellates sp? for about 20 minutes, it was great!
Probably the best thing about this trip was how 'unplugged' we all were. There was limited cell service, no blackberry service, our rental had no TVs, we went down to a bar to watch world cup and game 7 of Lakers bball, it was heaven and it was the kind of vacation we all longed for. Our original plan for 2010 had been a family cruise, but the thought of all those people and being told where we were going, waiting in lines, just couldn't do it. This trip was perfect for us.
There isn't a traffic light on this island. (unless you consider stopping for horses in the road annoying).
I will finish up with food on the next part (PS we are not foodies, but do enjoy good meals)
great report luugis. did you take a cooler or buy everything on island?
any photos?
Thanks, no we did not bring any food, bought everything on island, mostly at the Green Store in Esperanza and the larger grocery going into Isabel II. Will write more about eating tomorrow!
Glad to hear that you had a great time.
What a contrast to your original plan of a family cruise! You made the right choice
There is a small bakery La Dulce, about 2 blocks back from the beach, and that is where we got pastries, coffee, and really good egg sandwiches on fresh baked bread. They were closed Mon and Tues, so we ate breakfast at BellyButtons which was good portions for about $6/ person. One morning we had great blueberry pancakes at Tradewinds; all these places in Esperanza. We usually ate pretty heavy breakfasts, then just packed a cooler with snacks, drinks, and things we picked up at the stores so we could head to the beaches.
By evening, we were ready for a good meal! Enjoyed taco night at BellyButtons, had burgers at Duffy's, a very nice meal at Tradewinds, gourmet pizzas at Lazy Jack's, one evening, before the biobay tour we just ate from the carts on the Malecon...delicious pastallios (sp?) fried local fare, that is very inexpensive. Also had a nice breakfast one morning in Isabel at Roy's coffee house, lovely backyard patio. We all agreed that no one had a bad meal anywhere on the island, and I am hungry just thinking about it.
One thing that was apparent in this off season, shops and restaurants opened and closed on a whim, we had to be flexible and eat or stop wherever we could. Same for the 2 gas stations on the island....limited hours, everyone advised that we not let the tank go below half.
Forgot to mention a great fruit stand just outside of Isabel where we loaded up for the week. It was all good quality.
Glad that you had a good time. My wife and I went a few years back and had a blast. It was our first "out island" experience and it was awesome.
Can't beat beautiful beaches, Don Q and Cokes, and of course icy cold Medellas.
By the way did you visit Secret Beach? Is it still a secret these days?
Funny you should ask that, we looked for it, even saw a sign, but never found it. Our favorite beach was Navio, then Blue, then Red. Media Luna was gorgeous, but totally calm and the most people we saw on any beach (maybe 20?). We had our fair share of Medallas, my girls called it the Natty lite of the islands, cheap and good.
It is on the base. It was then marked by a trash station. There's a little pathway that slopes down into the cove, which is hidden if you don't look to the right and down to notice water.
We liked Media Luna too.
luugis, did you find your rental house on vrbo? Do you have a link for the property?
property link: http://www.villamalecon.com/
Yes, Casa Magnolia in Esperanza, found it on VRBO and would recommend it to anyone, about 3 block walk to beach and Malecon. I don't know what that link above is.
http://www.vrbo.com/209116
This is it.
Went in Nov. 2007 for 5 days pre-cruise and can't wait to go back! It's such a super un-touristy place to hang out and kick back. We also hired Abe for the bio bay excursion and loved every bit of it. Amazing! Did the ferry transfer as opposed to the flight. Outbound was fun but in retrospect should have chosen to fly back to San Juan.
Glad to hear your experiences in Vieques! We are heading out there next week. We're renting a villa and will be doing some cooking in-house - any words of advice re: purchasing food? Also, were you able to swim in the bio bay on your second trip? Was there anything that you had wished you had brought along? Thanks - in advance - for the info! Enjoyed your post!
sorry my link above has nothing to do with this thread
Yes we did swim in the bio-bay for about 20 min that second night. I would definitely recommend getting in! As for cooking, we did none! Our house had a grill, but we just went to the Super Morales in Isabel to stock up on milk, cereal, beach snacks, drinks (you will drink a lot). My 16 year old son can eat a box of cereal in one sitting. Also, get produce at the roadside stand, nothing looked great in the grocery stores. We went out each evening which is what we planned and budgeted for. I cannot think of anything we did not bring, only things we should have left at home! Our house was well equiped. Have fun, we will go back some day, I'm sure.
twoofsisters: Super Morales Market and Farmers' Market near GE on Tues. and Wed. mornings. Good lobster from fish man near ferry. Beware of locally caught fresh fish, other than lobster, due to ciguatera (http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/11/magazine/11FOB-diagnosis-t.html?emc=eta1). This was our second vacation to Vieques and enjoyed it both times. Did 1/2 day trip to Biobay with Abe's 3 years ago and the 2 hr. trip with Island Adventures this time. Definitely get in the water.
Thanks for the replies, folks! Will definitely avoid barracuda and will be careful. Appreciate the heads-up.
Thanks for bringing back so many wonderful memories!! We first went to Vieques for holiday about 15 years ago--when people thought it was a bombed out island. It was such a special place. I am glad to hear that it is still the laid back island that we fell in love with. If you are looking for a side trip, a day on Culebra is always fun. A great beach-Flamingo--complete with a tank!!
bookmarking
Virginiafish, you can eat fresh fish in PR. Just make sure to avoid barracuda and any whole fish which is more than 3 pounds. My favorite is capitan.