Have a terrific time!

I'll be following along - am starting to do research on my own trip.
Hope you have a great time!

Thanks, the excitement is building. A few more days of work then I leave for Buenos Aires and hope to spend a few days on my own in Ushuaia. I was glad to discover that I can fly there from EZE this time of the year instead of going to the downtown airport.

Quark Expedition has been great so far. Original trip I had booked was canceled but they upgraded me to a better ship for the same price!

Have heard nothing but good things about them.

Newberry, the downtown airport, usually used for domestic flights, is currently closed for some reason. We flew from there to Puerto Iguazu a few years ago.

We cruised from Valparaiso to BsAs last January and it was an absolutely wonderful trip. The day we were in Ushuaia it rained all day. We cruised the Beagle Channel and got some great pictures in spite of the rain. I would have loved to spend more time walking about the town but the weather was pretty bad. I did manage to get into the visitor's center and have some postcards stamped "end of the earth," etc. We also visited the Paseo de los Artesanas and bought some nice things.

I certainly understand your excitement.

Just found out AEP, the downtown airport is closed until Dec 2nd, 2010 for major construction. For now operations are in and out of EZE which is convenient for international connections.

It's raining in USH but the 10 Day Forecast looks good. Have not been able to find reliable weather for the continent. Just hope it's not to cold!

Giovanna, will try to walk the town for you. Thanks for the tips.

Thank you DMBTraveler. I'll be with you in spirit!

In less than 3 hours I will be leaving Miami (MIA) headed south to Ushuaia (USH). It is almost a nervous excitement as I journey to "The Blue Continent". Pinch me, I think I am dreaming!

Antarctica, Unfolding Of A Dream

A few years ago I received a travel e-mail about a cruise to Antarctica. Not aware of the uniqueness of travel to the area like I am today, I balked at the $1400 price tag.

Turns out that I might have made the right choice as the ship involved on the cruise hit an iceberg during one of it's voyages to Antarctica.

All of the passengers and crew were rescued. Unfortunately, I think the ship sank and became forever a part of the Antarctica ocean landscape.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2007/11/071124-AP-cruise-ship.html

In October 2009 during a visit to New Zealand my interest is again peaked about Antarctica while viewing an exhibition at the Canterbury Museum in Christchurch. Back home I begin some research and discover that a well respected adventure travel company, Quark Expedition has a wide selection of trips to Antarctica. However, the minimum price tag is now, $4000. Although a bit steep for my kind of travel, this time I am not willing to past up the opportunity for maybe a once in a life time adventure.

http://www.quarkexpeditions.com/

I put down a deposit with a K-Mart type lay-a-way plan. I begin making monthly payment in order to pay off the balance due 90 days prior to sailing. For me, this is a good plan as I will practically have my vacation paid off before I leave home.

My plans hit a small snag when I am informed by Quark that my original trip has been canceled because of insufficient bookings. I am feeling like a penguin left out in the cold but I am given some time to make a decision. I can have my money refunded or choose a trip on another ship. At first it is an agonizing financial decision as the new expeditions now start at $6000 but I go for it only to have buyers regret. $6000 is beyond my Antarctica or any where else travel budget.

Somewhere along the line there has been a miss-communication with Quark. Calling to cancel my trip altogether I am informed that I am being given the $6000 trip at my original price, a $2000 discount! Now I can see one reason, great customer service, why Quark Expedition has done so well in this specialized area of the travel business.

Monthly e-mails of the Quark Newsletter along with reading various articles and surfing the web keeps the expedition excitement fresh in my memory as I patiently wait until the end of November 2010 to discover “The Blue Continent”.

http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/11/antarctica-unfolding-of-dream.html

Antarctica, All My Bags Are Packed

All my bags are now packed but it wasn’t long ago I felt like one of the Three Stooges going to a nudist colony.

Hey Moe, “I don't know what to wear, Nyuk, Nyuk, Nyuk.”

Packing for a 12 day trip to one of the most remote places on earth can present a challenge. Once I leave home my shopping choices become limited and maybe even expensive if I am inadequate in my planning.

Typically, I travel as a backpacker with the least amount of clothing possible. These items along with all other necessities are carried in a single medium size backpack except for my camera equipment. So far, the places I have traveled along with MasterCard and Visa have allowed my minimalist approach to work out nicely.

With input from a few travel sites like Fodor's, I can see that this trip packing will have to be a little different. Understanding the need to stay warm, I will take the “layering approach” to accomplish this. My research tells me that “polypropylene” thermals are a good foundation to start with. Silk thermals are also an option but I have read that I might just slip slide away in rough seas if I try to use them as sleepwear.

While Quark Expedition does provide some recommendations for warm clothing and accessories, I am adding a few extra items besides a drain plug and electrical adapter that I normally bring on my trips.

A three way electrical splitter, thanks to a suggestion from a Fodorite that has previously visited Antarctica.

While a mono-pod may turn out to be better, I settle for two mini tripods both weighing less than 1 pound respectively. Each of which fits nicely in my camera bag or backpack.

Since my trip will require several Zodiac landings, light weight waterproof pants and a dry bag to keep my camera equipment safe also become necessities. I am able to easily find these items at a local Bass Pro Shop along with several packages of foot and hand warmers.

Although I have packed 4 sets of outfits including a swim trunk in hopes of taking a polar plunge, a clothes line that requires no clothes pin might just come in handy.

Feeling accomplished and somewhat prepared I begin a systematic packing scheme. I am planning on spending a few days in Argentina before we set sail so I have broken down my packing into two trips. All the clothing and items I will need once we set sail are in one large backpack. A smaller backpack has all the items that I will need for a few days around Ushuaia. This arrangement will also come in handy when I check in for my flight.

As I often do when traveling, I will board my flight with a single backpack and my camera case although this time with one or two minor exceptions. For this trip I will have stowaways with me, my new travel companions, Cisco Flip and Philips Vibe.

For photos:
http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/11/antarctica-all-my-bags-are-packed.html

American To Buenos Aires, Nothing Special In The Air

My trip to Antarctica begins with a flight on American Airlines from Miami to Buenos Aires. The evening flight is on a Boeing made 777 which I understand is an awesome airplane. It is an approximately 9 hour flight to Buenos Aires where there is a 2 hour time change from Miami.

Tonight's flight is not full and I end up in a middle section aisle seat just behind the wing area. There is only one other passenger in my 5 seat row and he makes a quick claim to three of the seats, leaving me with a solo pillow and blanket. I find it a bit comical as he sets up a bed even before we leave the gate.

I am a bit surprised there is not much leg room on such a huge international long haul airplane. Fortunate for me, I am sitting behind two young kids that are not yet familiar with the recline button. Besides, they are to busy playing games on their seat back video display.

I don't think I can spend almost 9 hours with my knees touching the back of the seat in front of me. I am going to have to find a way to make a “mini-me” bed with the remaining free seat next to me. Luckily, I have taken a shower in the last few days and I am wearing a new pair of socks. My “mini-me” bed ends up with my feet just inches away from the head of my seat row neighbor. I wake up and we are about two hours from touching down in Buenos Aires.

Having by passed dinner, I am looking forward to breakfast. A croissant, jelly, yogurt, OJ and luke warm tea make me wish I had stayed awake for dinner. Ironically, my breakfast disappointment is soothed as I pop in my Sony ear buds and enjoy a nice selection of on board jazz music provided by “American Airlines After Dark”.

Passing through Business and First Class as I leave the airplane I realize where the “Something Special In The Air” was on this flight. Seats that turn into beds and legroom for the tallest NBA player. Unfortunately, I think that “Something Special requires an NBA player type bankroll, I just not there yet.

Overall American did a good job getting us to Buenos Aires, I just don't think it was “Something Special In The Air” and wouldn't be unless you can afford to fly Business or First Class.

For Photos:
http://dmbflyingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/11/american-to-buenos-aires-nothing.html

Argentina, Buenos Aires Arrival


American Airlines Flight 943 begins it's descent for Buenos Aires with a promise of an on time arrival. Although I have a few hours to make my connection to Ushuaia this is good news. With my customs and immigration forms complete I am excited to enter Argentina, the process bringing me one step closer to Antarctica.

An automatic arrival announcement is beginning made when it is interrupted, “Ladies and Gentlemen this is your Captain Kangaroo and we have just been given a delay for our arrival into Buenos Aires.”
Apparently, this is a busy time for arrivals into Buenos Aires (EZE) especially since the downtown domestic airport (AEP) is closed for construction. All of the domestic flights are temporarily operating out of the main airport.

I continue listening to “American Airlines After Dark”, a nice selection of jazz music and it does not seem too long before we smoothly touchdown. Welcome to Argentina!

As a result of the temporary airport overcrowding we are parked at a remote location which requires us to be bussed to the main terminal to clear customs and immigration. In the immigration area the tourist are separated from the locals in order to purchase an Argentina Entry Visa. This visa has varying prices from $100 to $140 depending on your nationality and length of stay in the country. Of course, cash and credit cards are accepted.

For US citizens it is $140 but the visa is good for 10 years. Let's see, if I make ten trips here a year it will turn out to be a heck of a bargain! The immigration and custom process is quite welcoming and not before long I am headed to Terminal C to make my domestic connection to Ushuaia.

Terminal C is to the left outside of International Arrivals and is about a 10 to 15 minute walk. I arrive in time to make an earlier flight to Ushuaia on Aerolines Argentina. However after several airport pages “Pasejo Senorita Delago” shows up and denies my hope to continue southbound much earlier than planned.

http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/11/antarctica-buenos-aires-arrival.html

The adventure begins! Will be excited to follow along - looking forward to the next installment

<<Packing for a 12 day trip to one of the most remote places on earth can present a challenge.>>

I had to smile at this statment. This was probably the most difficult trip we ever took to pack for. Because it was summer in South America and quite cold at some of our ports, it was mind boggling to figure out what to take. Additionally, we had the formal nights, etc. on our cruise and I love dressing up when we cruise. It worked out well for us, actually never wearing the heavy coat and boots I bought for the trip (we must go to the snow this winter so those purchases won't be a total loss lol). We did end up buying a small suitcase in BsAs which held all the "heavy" stuff and made it easier for us to manage on the trip home.

Anxious to hear about Ushuaia. Hope you have good weather!

Antarctica, Aerolineas Argentina To Ushuaia

Unable to get on an earlier flight, thanks to Senorita Delago, I search the waiting area and find one of the few electrical outlets in the waiting area. I must charge up my Acer Netbook. Traveling the globe, I have few different ones so I can keep powered up. It sure would be nice if someday all the world's electrical outlets would just get along. Is that to much for a King to ask?

What time does the 14:30 flight for Ushuaia depart? Apparently, it is not at 14:30. However, today it is understandable since the airport is running at full capacity due to construction at Buenos Aires other airport. Having been delayed slightly on my original flight inbound to Buenos Aires, I am patient as I wait for my next flight outbound.

My flight to Ushuaia is a direct flight but will first make a stop in El Carafete, Argentina. This flight is on a Boeing 737 and I end up with seat 24F. It is a window seat on the last row of the right side of the aircraft. We are taken by bus to a remote area where we board the airplane using stairs and I am glad to see the pilot getting his windshield washed. I would not want him to not be able to see out his window or get lost on the way to Ushuaia.

Finding my way to 24F I discover I will not have to worry about a seat neighbor making a bed. I will have the whole row to myself. Departing Buenos Aires I get a view of the city as the airplane turns and climbs it's way towards El Carafete. Pushing the recline button, I rest my head against a side panel and I am soon asleep. I hope the two and a half hour flight time will go by quickly..

I wake up to some interesting scenery below us, a watery snake stretching for miles and miles between rolling brown hills. In the distance snow capped mountains tell me the landscape is changing as we make our descent for El Carafete.

A short stop and every window seat especially the ones on the right side of the airplane becomes “Something Special In The Air” as we make our initial departure from El Carafete. Passengers ignore the seat belt sign as they move side to side from window to window to get sparkling views of the scenery below. Jagged mountain peaks blanketed with patches of snow or a river covered with glacier ice. The views are so spectacular that there is no blaring announcements for us to sit down. I think the flight attendants are so use to passengers getting up during this departure that they leave us alone to soak all in.

It's about an hour and twenty minute flight from El Carafete to Ushuaia that rewards us with more gorgeous views as we make our arrival descent. With a bright blue sky and scattered puffy white clouds, our flight is so close to the mountains that I feel like I can reach out and touch them.

What started as a dream a few years ago is now one step closer to reality as Aerolineas Argentina Flight 1872 touches down at Malvinas Argentina International Airport. It has taken me almost 18 hours to get here since I left Miami. Stepping outside the airport, smelling the fresh air brought to me on a cold wind and taking in the splendid scenery, I know my journey here has already been worthwhile.

For Photos:
http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/11/antarctica-aerolineas-argentina-to.html

Ushuaia, weather nice! Sailing in less than 3hrs! Updates after Dec 10th.

ANTARCTICA CLIFF NOTES

Just got back from, Antarctic Explorer. This posting is just some quick highlights that may be useful for those planning a trip south or are already on their way there. So much more to write about such a spectacularly beautiful and awesome place.


QUARK EXPEDITION

From start to finish a fun, professional and safety conscious group of individuals. They did a fantastic job and seem to be a great value for the money. Only expressed disappointment was from the campers. Not enough time, cold (it snowed) and being pecked by birds (funny). I did not go camping but will share more about my Quark experience later.

I would not hesitate to highly recommend them.

For Photos:http://dmbtravelertnt.blogspot.com/2010/12/see-antarctica-with-quark-expedition.html


USHUAIA, ARGENTINA


The Beagle Canal tour is a must. I highly recommend Navegacion Canal Beagle. Small boats, Yate Tango and Yate Che. Maximum 12 passenger per boat with a more personal touch. AR$186 about U$45.

For Photos: http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/12/argentina-beagle-canal_10.html



El Tren Del Fin Del Mundo, overrated. Checking out the gift shop and historical artifacts is about all you need to. Visit the Parque Nacional and take in the same scenery but from the great outdoors. Train is AR$130-300 about US$32-75. Entrance fee to Parque Nacional AR$65, US$15 but the park only accepts pesos.


Rental cars are expensive, AR$230 and up with limited kilometers usually 200km a day. Cinco Estrellas was the best rate (US$60) I found and they were nice to deal with. They will also arrange to pick up or drop you off at your hotel. They can be reached 24hrs a day, 02901-1551-11-10.

www.5estrellasrentacar.com.ar


There are many great restaurants along Avenida San Martin. King Crabs are a very popular menu item for about AR$90 (US$23). I dined at El Moustaccho and shared a bottle of Postales del Fin del Mundo Cabernet. The food and wine selection was excellent with reasonable prices.

Any of the museums in town are worth a few hours of your time if you are interested in learning more about the history of the area.

For more on Ushuaia:

http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/12/argentina-ushuaia-gateway-to-antarctic.html

I had to laugh out loud on your remark about the disappointment from the campers; cold..... omg really? .. your camping on the ice of the southpole... what did they expect? .. lol
Can't wait to view your photo's

Welcome home. Sounds as if your trip was all you expected and more. Wish we'd been able to explore Ushuaia much more, but fully enjoyed the short time, rain and all, we had. We did a Beagle Canal tour (much larger boat but excellent service). The lighthouse was the highlight for me, but enjoyed seeing the sea lions and coromorants as well. Did you see penguins anywhere on your cruise?

I hadn't seen your thread until now, and am very much enjoying reading it!

Your quote "So much more to write about such a spectacularly beautiful and awesome place" captures exactly how I feel -- it's been almost a year later for me, and I still haven't organized or written up everything I want to!

Thanks for writing this up!

Nikao,

We had so many beautiful and warm days that at times it was easy to forget we were near the south pole. Hearing the stories and complaints about it being cold still was funny especially the way they were told.

Giovanna,

Not home yet. Just spent 15hrs getting to EZE from Ushuaia via El Carafete and a $45 cab ride at 3am from AEP. More about that later. Major delays and cancellations out of USH. US by far has one of the best air travel system.

No penguins on Beagle Canal cruise but whales in harbor were so cool. Saw enough "Gentoos" in Antarctica that I think I will count them instead of sheep when I need to get to sleep!

Will post more on Beagle Canal cruise. Did you go to Bridge Island?

SelfpropelledTripod,

Get busy posting. Even a tripod does not have a leg to stand on if it has been over a year

I have hardly had time to sort my pictures. Quark did provide a nice DVD at the end of our daily activities combined with pictures we contributed. I will use it as a guide to post my experiences but as you are aware it can be a daunting task.

<< Did you go to Bridge Island?>>

I'm not sure. Doesn't ring a bell by name, but we did stop at a number of isles in the channel (I mistakenly said Beagle Canal, meant Beagle Channel). If I remember correctly our first sight was the lighthouse which was thrilling for me. It was raining rather hard for the whole cruise, but the crew tried very hard to keep the windows squeegied. I went out on a narrow walkway several times to take pictures at our stops. Managed to get some decent pictures.

Giovanna,

Here's a Bridge Island link that may bring back some memories. Too bad you had rainy weather for your tour

I think "Beagle Canal" is the correct local pronounciation.


http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2010/12/argentina-bridge-island-ushuaia.html

Thanks for the link! Looks beautiful. I'm sure now that we did not visit Bridge Island.

Giovanna,

That I guess is the problem with going on the bigger boats or may be the weather had something to do with it.

For me, it was another nice part of our tour especially, learning a little bit more about the area and the interesting plant life.

"Saw enough "Gentoos" in Antarctica that I think I will count them instead of sheep when I need to get to sleep!"

Funny you should say that ... since we returned from our Antarctica trip in 2007, I've been counting penguins too if I have difficulty falling asleep ... I mix them up a bit ... a king here, a gentoo there, some Adelies and Macaronis thrown in for good measure

eenusa,

Think you saw a few more than I did so your sleep therapy may work just a little better than mine. Either way, they are a lot cuter than sheep

BOARDING AKADEMIK IOFFE TO ANTARCTICA


The weather is gorgeous as we board the Ioffe where we are greeted by friendly smiles and cold glasses of champagne. Inside, I hope the nice weather and welcoming smiles are a sign of what lies ahead, I have a good feeling that it is. The Ioffe boarding is on the third floor and fortunate for me I am only steps away from my cabin which is across the hall from the dining room.

After unloading carry on baggage, most of us make our way to the upper deck to take in views of Ushuaia. Mountains with small patches of snow stand out against clear skies with high fluffy clouds. More importantly there is just a mild breeze with relatively calm seas. This should make for smooth sailing on the initial part of our journey.

About quarter past six an announcement is made, we have received our clearance from the Argentine custom officials and the Akademik Ioffe smoothly maneuvers away from Puerto Ushuaia. Along with 106 other passengers, I am on my way to Antarctica.

Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVxGW0-NsT0

Coincidentally, it was a year ago today that we were in Ushuaia.

Giovanna,

Wish you got to enjoy more of Ushuaia

I still am having good memories of visiting there.

DAY 1 ON THE AKADEMIK IOFFE


After a few moments of saying goodbye to Ushuaia from the upper deck of the Ioffe we are corralled inside to the dining room for our first of two mandatory safety briefings. Although this is a serious matter, we all get laughs as we watch an immersion suit demonstration by one of the expedition staff members.

We are soon dismissed from our briefing and I head back to my cabin. Seven short blasts followed by a long one and I am putting on warm clothes and a life jacket. Joining other passengers I take two sets of stairs to my muster station. Here more emergency procedures are reviewed and we get a glimpse of the life boats we hope we will not have to use anytime in the next 11 days.

With the required emergency drills over it's back to Cabin 314 where I get a port hole view of Beagle Canal as I unpack the rest of my belongings. My cabin turns out to be efficiently segregated with lots of storage and closet space. The room has bunks beds along with a fold out couch. Our Quark provided, fashionably bright yellow parkas along with special zodiac life preservers hang on a nearby wall. Our r “hope we don't need 'em” immersion suits are nicely tucked away beneath the fold out couch.

An interesting piece of equipment is also found in our cabins, a rotary dialed phone! Are you puzzled? Then you must be a lot younger than I am! Although the ship has modern day communication equipment this is a workable phone left over from yesteryear that is used for emergencies.

We are told that although the emergency number is “666” we will be connected directly to the bridge if it is dialed and not to that other place that starts with an “H” and end in “LL”.

Surprisingly there are no locks on the room doors (for quick emergency access) so leave your crown jewels at home or they can be stored in a safe with the onboard hotel manager.

It's not much longer before dinner is being served. Since my cabin is near the rear entrance of the dining room, I wait a few minutes and avoid the queue at the main entrance.

A self served small mix salad along with fried halibut, potatoes and broccoli, and I have had my first of many dinners onboard the Ioffe. Not bad.

With a full stomach, I take a walk to explore a bit more of the Akademik Ioffe. From bow to stern I am rewarded with beautiful views of Beagle Canal and a stunning sunset sky. It is almost 10pm and the sun is working it's artistic magic. Gone are the oranges seen at the higher latitudes now replaced with soft blues, along with soothing pinks and purples. As snow cap mountains fade in the distance it is a scenery you want to last forever.

On board the Ioffe is an Argentine Pilot Captain who is navigating us along the historically disputed boundaries of the Beagle Canal. On one side lies Chile and the other, Argentina. The important sea passages here were once so disputed that it took the intervention and threat of excommunication by Pope John Paul to get both sides to reach an agreement.

A chill is in the air as the sun's heat disappears for the day and I step inside the lounge to warm up. Here there is a piano (just in case Billy Joel or Sir Elton comes on board), movies and books. Back outside I watch as a tug boat approaches and our temporary navigator disembarks. The Ioffe is now on it's own. Nonetheless, I am confident with the remaining crew as we head to open seas.

With Carlos from Colombia serving as Alcohol And Snack Ambassador, a small but notable crowd from countries like Germany, Taiwan, Bolivia and The US have gathered for brief international talks and drinks. Proper introductions are made and possible agendas discussed before the meeting is adjoined.

A quick check of our navigation progress chart tells me the sun will be back at 04:53am.This is less than seven hours away as I head to my upper bunk bed.

Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4_xHOMS02U

Enjoying your trip report. I remember those incredible sunsets.

Loving your report! I was also on the Ioffe, but with a different operator (OneOcean instead of Quark), so your trip report brings back vivid memories (e.g., I can visualize exactly where your cabin is), but some things are different (e.g., we didn't get immersion suits, but I seem to recall my first night's dinner sounding much more appetizing -- we had a really great Canadian head chef).

Yeah, yeah, I know I owe you all a trip report! (At this rate, I'm hoping I can just link to DMBTravler's and say "What he said!" )

Glad to bring back the memories

SelfPropelledTripod, Feel free to "copy and paste"!

CROSSING THE DRAKE PASSAGE

It seems as if we have found favor with the sea gods as the weather and sea conditions are quite nice for our introduction to the Drake Passage. Nothing more than a little roller coaster rocking and rolling under mostly clear blue skies.

I am content to take it all in and count my blessings.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqz8EwJ2rwU

DAY 2 ON THE IOFFE IS FOR THE BIRDS


Somewhere in the night we officially enter the Drake Passage with little fanfare. The seas are so relatively calm that they keep me asleep right through breakfast. With three full meals served everyday, missing one or two of them should help me slim down for summer. However, that diet plan evaporates faster than a boiling pot of tea as I soon find myself in the lunch queue.

Like dinner last night there is a small salad bar, soup and a menu offering a fish, meat and vegetarian dish. Orders are taken and our entrees are served by a serious group of hard working mostly Russian dining room staff.

After lunch the dining room is converted into one of two presentation rooms where lectures are offered on various subjects related to Antarctica. The lectures are split between port and starboard side passengers in order to avoid overcrowding the room.

This afternoon, we are learning about sea birds and I find the albatross fascinating. To highlight our bird learning experience we are given the challenge to walk out on the deck and see how many of them we can spot. Although on vacation, we are in some ways a part of a scientific research team. Our wildlife sightings are noted and posted on a daily public record. There are a few surprises even to the some of the expedition staff who are research scientists as some birds are spotted in unexpected areas.

Out on the stern, I capture photos of several birds that are following in the wake of the ship although it is very difficult getting them to pose for the shots. I am told the ship's propellers while stirring the seas brings food to the surface and provides a nice buffet for our flying friends.

It seems as if Neptune has granted us favor as the weather this afternoon crossing the Drake Passage is surprisingly calm and beautiful although storm clouds can be seen far to the west of our position. Enjoying my weather good fortune, I spend a fair amount of time on the deck taking it all in.

A stroll around the deck and I observe kayakers making preparations for their outings in a few days. This is an additional expedition offering that will set you back about $800. I guess, no Starbucks for you next month.


Slideshow Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGyaDPSfOPk

Good shots once again. Reminded me a bit of a whale watch we took out of San Pedro, CA It was cold and foggy and we unfortunately had not one sighting. One of the crew starting throwing chum off the back of the boat and the gulls came in droves. We wanted to see whales, but this was certainly something to see.

Glad your weather has remained good and the seas are comparatively calm.

Good shots once again. Reminded me a bit of a whale watch we took out of San Pedro, CA It was cold and foggy and we unfortunately had not one sighting. One of the crew starting throwing chum off the back of the boat and the gulls came in droves. We wanted to see whales, but this was certainly something to see.

Glad your weather has remained good and the seas are comparatively calm.

Giovanna,

Funny, I lived in LA area for about 15 years and always wanted to do one of those whale watching cruise but never did. Guess I save a few bucks

We did get to see some whales on the trip without any "baiting" from the crew. Will have photos somewhere a long the line as I continue my posting.

Thanks for the feedback and following along.

CROSSING THE DRAKE PASSAGE

It seems as if we have found favor with the sea gods as the weather and sea conditions are quite nice for our introduction to the Drake Passage. Nothing more than a little roller coaster rocking and rolling under mostly clear blue skies.

I am content to take it all in and count my blessings.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqz8EwJ2rwU

LET'S HEAR IT FOR THE BIRDS

One advantage of taking this trip with Quark Expedition compared to a normal cruise line is that we are actually on a scientific research vessel. On board there are numerous experts on various aspects on life in Antarctica and marine biology. This is a major benefit for us.

As a part of our expedition various lectures are offered on our free days at sea. This afternoon I have the good fortune to attend a presentation on Birds Of The Southern Oceans. It turns out to be an enjoyable learning experience as I become a quasi part of a scientific research team.

Our wildlife sightings become a part of the ship's daily sighting report and may be useful in some of the ongoing research on board the ship.

Offers from National Geographic cannot be too far behind.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-aoUHPEHc0

Following along and enjoying...can't wait for the next installment

LeslieS,

Thanks, hope you are patient. A work in progress that may take as long to complete as putting a man on Mars

TOURING AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE AKADEMIK IOFFE

I awake my first full day at sea and I am surprised how nice the weather conditions are. Wanting or foolishly sensing I am still in the tropics, I put on my flip flops and go for a stroll around the Ioffe. Making my way to the back of the ship I find my balance against six to eight foot waves as the Akademik Ioffe seem to maneuver them with ease.

At the rear of the ship one of the zodiacs we will probably be using later for our landings sits secure in place. Here, I can feel the ship pitching and rolling as we cross the Drake Passage.

Climbing one set of steps after another I get to explore the different deck levels of the ship. Some areas are open spaces while others are used as storage for kayaks and more zodiacs. On the upper decks a brisk wind is blowing and my glove-less hands are beginning to feel a bit numb. So much for the idea of the tropics.

Nonetheless, the weather is refreshing and the seas are relatively calm for what I expected crossing the Drake. I imagine the average temperatures will continue to fall as we head further south.

After living most of my life in the tropics, I am looking forward to experiencing some non tropical weather and saving my flip flops for Margaritaville.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnd34PxFqdo

A GHOST SHIP

It is just past midnight on Day-2 of my dream adventure and I am roaming the halls of what seems like a runaway ghost ship. All the other passengers are apparently tucked away in their beds, probably with thoughts of sugar plums and penguins dancing in their heads.

Being the “night owl” that I am, I use the opportunity to explore a bit more of the Ioffe. I discover a library on one floor and also the way to access the bridge without having to go outside. Visiting the bridge I find there are at least two other night owls on board the Ioffe. They are doing a fine job navigating across the Drake Passage towards Antarctica.

At the reception desk on the third floor, I enter my guess for the Ice Berg Competition. We are asked to guess what time we think the first iceberg will be spotted. With my purely non scientific “roll the ice”, 5:25pm calculation now recorded, I head over to the posted navigation chart to check our progress southbound. We are in the middle of the Drake Passage.

Near the navigation chart there is also other interesting information about Antarctica and the Akademik Ioffe. Did you know there is no sun for 182 days during the Antarctic winter?

Fortunately for us, winter is over in the southern hemisphere. We are still far enough north that our days and nights are somewhat normal. However, we will soon have the benefit of longer days as we head further south.

Looking through a nearby door port hole, I stare at pitch blackness. I step outside and I am greeted by a brisk bone chilling wind combined with light falling snow. There goes my chance to enjoy a star filled night over the southern oceans. Instead, it's a nice long warm shower and before long sugar plums and penguins are also dancing in my head.

Pictures:
http://dmbtraveler195.blogspot.com/2011/01/antarctica-ghost-ship.html

Worth the wait! Pictures and video on your blog are interesting too. So funny how you form an image of what a writer looks like and then the reality is way different!

DAY 3, LUNCH AND GLOBAL WARMING


I awake on Day 3 with a sense that the temperature outside is falling which gives rise to my excitement inside. Taking my now customary walk outside, my suspicion is confirmed. This time no flip flops and just a brief visit outside.

After a late night or what some would consider an early morning of going to bed, I miss breakfast but I am up in time for lunch. For me, the dining on board has been decent and if you are not careful you can add on a few pounds just like on a regular cruise ship. Three full meals are served daily with two of them lunch and dinner offering deserts.

There is always soup, a pasta and/or vegetarian selection offered along with what seems to be a limited supply of bread (me like, bread … I'm the Bread Monster). Today for lunch the entree choices are Rainbow Trout, A Chicken Salad or Penne Pasta. I opt for the Chicken Salad which comes with a creamy but flavorful walnut apple dressing.

A part of our dining experience which I look forward to is the brief talks or demonstrations from members of the expedition staff. They are turning out to be a professional and fun group of individuals that genuinely seem concerned that we have a great experience.

Using rolls of toilet paper we get a good visual of the wing span of some of the birds we have seen so far. An albatross can have a wing span greater than six feet and that's just one ply!

After lunch I attend a presentation where I am expecting Al Gore to be present. Even with “Mr. Global Warming” himself absent it turns out to be an enjoyable discussion on global warming and it's effect on Antarctica.

I am impressed enough to think about reducing my own carbon footprint. Besides, I hate having soot on my feet so maybe cleaning up a bit is not so bad an idea.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF7iohg1X-0

LeslieS,

Should I get a pipe and a typewriter?

CROSSING INTO THE ANTARCTIC PENNISULA

Stepping outside on our second full day at sea the weather has now become what I expect for crossing the southern oceans. Gone is the heat of a tropical sun replaced with the chill of a stiff breeze and overcast gray skies.

The seas are still relatively calm and the Ioffe continues to rock gently as it heads southbound. Sometime yesterday afternoon we officially crossed into the Antarctica Peninsula. This is determined by the ship's engineer sensing a difference in the ocean's water temperature.

As we are expecting to make landfall sometime tomorrow morning there are two mandatory briefings that we must attend. The first one a zodiac briefing, the second a bio briefing. The bio briefing covers rules for landing in Antarctica. We must be careful not to introduce any foreign biological substances onto the continent.

Our clothing and anything we expect to take on land should be inspected and vacuumed. This is part of a process to keep the continent, our largest natural wilderness area pristine.

All in favor, say aye!

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwglQcTIEu4

FINAL PREPARATIONS FOR FIRST LANDING


Our collective expedition excitement is building as we approach the afternoon of Day 3 on board the Ioffe. A Bio and Zodiac briefing completes part of the requirements for us to make our Antarctic landings the first of which should occur in less than 24 hours.

Following the Zodiac briefing, we all take turns heading to the “Mud Room” for our boot fitting. Interestingly, the “Mud Room” contains a huge sonar system and is the point around which the Akademik Ioffe was built.

During the Cold War the Americans believed the ship was used for military purposes as it's sonar system could be used for tracking submarines. The Russians claimed it was used for mapping the ocean floor which in essence could be very helpful in knowing where submarines could or could not navigate.

And all I came here for was to try on a pair of boots. I sure am glad the Cold War is over.

Not sure of all the words of the song but an attempted rendition of “These boots were made for walking” along with a few of the Expedition staff makes my boot fitting exercise a bit of fun.

The “Mud Room” is point where we will make our final preparations before going outside to join the zodiac queue. Part of our preparation is to turn our room tags on a “Tag Board” as we leave the “Mud Room” then to flip them when we get back. This has to be done individually so the crew can be sure that all passengers are accounted for especially after a landing is complete.

The last step before joining the queue is to rinse our booths, tripods or other landing equipment in a chemical solution that will minimize us taking any foreign biological substances onto the continent.

With our prep work done now it is time to be patient and hope we get to make our first landing soon. This will come at the mercy of the weather, the discretion of our Expedition Leader Lynn and with the blessing of the Captain if he thinks it is safe for us to do so.

Either way, my size 12 and a half boots are ready for walking.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYMZtdpzvSE

Nancy Sinatra would be pleased! lol How exciting. Look forward to hearing about your first landing and the wonderful pictures you no doubt will take.

Giovanna,

Slowly getting there. Trying to keep postings in chronological order. Appreciate you hanging in there

IAATO BRIEFING

With our Zodiac and “Mud Room” briefings out of the way our final pre-landing briefing is given in the lower Presentation Room. This briefing covers bio-security and IAATO guidelines, the rules by which all tourism activities are governed in Antarctica.

As a part of the guidelines we are not allowed to take any food or biological substances onto the continent.

While it may be cool to see a penguin drinking a Diet Coke or eating a Snickers Bar, it could affect life here in a way that could be disastrous.

Just as important is the prevention of introducing foreign plant life (which has occurred on occasions) or leaving non-biodegradable materials like lens caps or plastic wrappers behind. Even tissues or other items that could easily blow away must be safeguarded.

Our guidance for encounters with wildlife requires that we keep a minimum of 15 feet away from them. In addition, the animals should always be given the right of way.

With all the legalese out of the way it's time to party, although I am afraid this party is going to suck!


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jsTmCZTNPg

Haha, yes pipe, typewriter and tweed jacket while you're at it

That's great that they make such an effort to prevent contamination. I hope all ships share that protocol.

Just read about the MV Polar Star hitting a rock and having to turn back. Wow - between that and the massive wave in December I'd say you were lucky to have no problems and hopefully our trip next January won't either. I think these recent mishaps have upped the odds for us that we'll be fine!

Haha, yes pipe, typewriter and tweed jacket while you're at it

That's great that they make such an effort to prevent contamination. I hope all ships share that protocol.

Just read about the MV Polar Star hitting a rock and having to turn back. Wow - between that and the massive wave in December I'd say you were lucky to have no problems and hopefully our trip next January won't either. I think these recent mishaps have upped the odds for us that we'll be fine!

LeslieS,

Then I would be styling! Should I get the jacket with the patches on the elbows?

Which outfit did you chose for your trip? From what I learned on my trip they are not all the same. Navigating in that part of the world can be challenging and experience definitely counts!

Let's hope for great weather next January, no el nino, no la nina, no el wavos grandes

FIRST LAND SIGHTING

Around 4:30pm on Day 3 of sailing southbound from Ushuaia, I prove scientifically to myself that it is possible to get goose bumps on top of goose bumps even when the temperature is near freezing and you are wearing a parka.

I have just become my own modern day Christopher Columbus as I have just spotted land on the northern portion of the Antarctic Peninsula. I think I have the same sense of excitement as in1492 although I am nowhere close to dancing on the deck or jumping overboard to celebrate.

The islands in the distance do not seem as hospitable as my birth country was to Columbus but they still bring a feeling of euphoria. Even without the warmth of a tropical sun there is a beauty here that is spectacular.

After days of sailing we are now maybe just hours from setting foot on the continent where the coldest temperatures on the earth have been recorded.

Yes, the continent's welcoming can sometimes be “as cold as ice”, however, I think we have found the right time of the year for a visit.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHa5mh5r9YU

Oh wow, I hadn't heard about the Polar Star!

A lot of those areas are incompletely charted. There have been enough ships going to these places for long enough that it's basically quite safe (I think), but there's certainly much more risk than cruising in more routine destinations.

Reading about the Polar Star -- the ship is double-hulled, and the outer hull was breached. No injuries, no leaks. The ship proceeded to a Polish research station (my ship did not go that station, but we visited another, and these are very isolated, desolate, spartan sorts of places), where divers inspected the hull. As an extra safety precaution (I'm guessing insurance reasons...) they've offloaded the passengers, who have been transfered to other ships for the return to Ushuaia, and the Polar Star will do the Drake with only the crew and expedition staff onboard.

Because there's a small number of ships/companies doing these trips, all these stories feel connected to me by some sort of cosmic coincidence. I had been scheduled to be on the Clelia II last year, but it hit a rock, and subsequent sailings for that season were cancelled. The Clelia II is the same ship that got damaged by the massive wave back in December. Because of the Clelia II rock accident, I got moved to the Akademik Ioffe, which is the ship DMBTraveler is on, but with a different operator, OneOcean. (OneOcean had it for that season, I think as a sublease from Quark, who usually operate it, and with whom DMBTraveler is going.) OneOcean is the operator of a different ship (the Marina Svetaeva), which is picking up the bulk of the Polar Star's passengers. I wish the best to the crew, staff, and passengers on that ship. Andrew Prossin (the leader at One Ocean) is a fantastic guy, and it's got to be tough to keep your own clients happy while you "do the right thing" to help out stranded passengers from another ship in trouble. According to their website, the Marina Svetaeva is only built for 89 passengers. I'm sure they weren't completely full, but taking on an extra 42 passengers, and probably modifying their itinerary, can't be fun.

I was reading a bit more on the Polar Star, and I remembered considering taking this ship last year: it's actually a former Swedish icebreaker, so it's probably among the most seaworthy and ice-worthy of the ships doing these trips. Because of that, though, they do itineraries that go farther south than most other cruises, including this one that goes south of the Antarctic Circle. Farther south means going into much less explored waters, and uncharted rocks and ship hulls don't get along very well. Anyway, glad everyone was OK, and there was no environmental damage, either.

Back to DMBTraveler's report! Eagerly awaiting the next installment...

SPT,

Thanks for the report on the Polar Star. With all the navigation tools available today like GPS these incidents should not be happening.

On my trip one of the expedition staff was on the ship that sank a few years ago and he provided some insights into Antarctic operations that were very interesting.

All I can say for now is EXPERIENCE COUNTS. Details at 11..!

Now back to our regularly scheduled posting

A PLEASANT SURPRISE

We started the morning of Day 3 at sea under gray clouds with howling winds and freezing temperatures, this evening it is a different story in many ways.

From inside my cabin I can see the weather has improved dramatically. There are now blue skies as I take in a port hole view of a frigid, rugged and snow covered island that I cannot wait to step foot on.

In a surprise to all of us, some time around 7pm a clanking, grinding noise can be heard coming from the front of the Akademik Ioffe. The Ioffe has come to a complete stop and it's anchors are being lowered to the ocean floor.

The public address system blares announcements in Russian, apparently from the ship's Captain then comes a language that most of us could understand.

With an underlying excitement in her voice our Expedition Leader Lynn announces that we will be making our first landing in Antarctica.

This will be a brief landing and it will be done shortly after dinner. However, you can only imagine the exhilaration this brings.

We will be making a landing sooner than most of us expected. A dream now even closer to coming true.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0k_Jx95tVUo

GETTING LAYERED

With our first Antarctica landing just moments away it is time to get dressed for the occasion and “I don't have a thing to wear”. OMG!

As we have been briefed earlier, part of staying comfortable on our outings is to dress using a layered approach. On the zodiacs we will be facing the elements and will need to do all we can to stay dry and warm.

The parka provided by Quark is quiet comfortable but I will have several layers of clothing on beneath it. Once dressed a special zodiac life vest is also worn.

All dressed except for shoes, I head to the “Mud Room” where my waterproof boots I tried on earlier are waiting for me.

I think like me they are ready to do some walking.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEOaZmtGBH0

OUR FIRST LANDING

Our first zodiac disembarkation goes as smooth as ice. One can tell the Quark Expedition group here has done this many times before. No surprise to me, it is a well run professional operation.

The zodiac ride is about 10 minutes to our landing spot and most of the zodiacs are filled like cans of sardines. Initially, the sea is a bit choppy but this makes for an exciting ride as a few of us get an occasional spray of the frigid Antarctic waves.

Pulling into Yankee Harbor, named after a 1900's American whaling ship from the Boston area, the seas become calm and as our zodiac slows I can almost see straight to rocky bottom. The water is almost crystal clear.

I am in one of the last zodiacs to arrive in Yankee Harbor and most of my fellow passengers have already spread out around the island exploring. Within a few feet of our landing there are penguins along the shore being penguins. Some walking around while others enjoy a late evening swim.

The wind is howling and the temperature is pretty cold, a fitting welcome for our brief visit. The animals seem not in the least bothered by our visit. Standing still a cute little penguin just waddles by me. In the distant, elephant seals seem just as curious about me as I am about them.

The cold temperatures and practically barren land are part of what I expected to see on our visit. What surprises me are the isolated areas of growing green ground cover. As low as the thermometer is now reading, it hard to imagine it is the beginning of spring here.

It is also an active part of the mating season and a couple of birds are not too embarrassed to remind us of that fact.

Walking near the shoreline some artifacts from the 1900's “Whaling Industry” still remains. Barrels that were used to boil and separate the animal fats can still seen in a rusting state of decay. Fortunately, there is now a somewhat active program to clean up these areas.

It is now about 9:30pm and there is still a fair amount of daylight remaining. We have traveled far enough south that we are now getting the benefit of longer daylight hours.

Our return to the Ioffe is a fun ride as we navigate the swelling waves of the open seas. Behind ski masks and hooded parkas, I think there are lots of smiles as we have just experienced a small piece of what Antarctica has to offer and it was quite amazing, wow!


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmEK0vuFXmA

How exciting! Thank you for taking me with you, at least through the video. I assume the penguins were Gentoo. Is that correct? One of the best experiences of my life was walking among the Magellanic penguins at Punta Tombo, Argentina. What amazing creatures.

Aren't the elephant seals incredible? We live not too far from Ano Nuevo State Reserve where they congregate annually. We toured the area once years ago and thoroughly enjoyed seeing the old bulls, the "mothers" and the blobby weaners.

So glad you're having such a wonderful trip. Thanks again for the penguins, they're favorites of mine.

Giovanna,

I think you are correct, Gentoos. They sure were fun to watch especially when they just flopped over every now and then.

The Elephant Seals seemed to be such "Gentle Gaints". I almost felt like they wanted to get up and give me a hug.

More penguin pictures and videos to come

I look forward to them!

DMBT - Quark was my first choice but sticker shock made me go with Hurtigruten instead. If I could've dealt with sharing a bathroom the Quark pricing would've been easier to handle but...I guess I'm weird that way, need my own, especially if I potentially could be dealing with seasickness! TMI - sorry!

Would you consider sharing your packing list at some point? I know there are some things I still need to buy but wonder if certain items would really be used - -like a balaclava?

Love hearing about the goosebumps on top of goosebumps!
I can picture everyone on your zodiac on the ride back with huge smiles under their scarves.

I've always thought elephant seals were seriously homely but I'm going to try to adjust my attitude and not judge so harshly especially on their home turf! They probably think we're not too pretty either.

SPT - Interesting additional info on the Polar Star. And having the passengers picked up by the Marina Svetaeva - nice that there is company down there and you're not totally alone if something goes wrong a la Shackleton.

Leslie,

I will make a posting about my packing and suggestions soon. I think you are adventurous enough that crossing The Drake Passage and being on the open seas with the right meds will be a walk in the park for you.

Interestingly, I had the shared bathroom to myself most of the time. It did help taking showers when everyone else was dining or at midnight

HALF MOON BAY, OUR SECOND LANDING

The day begins with an early get up, however from being outside I can already tell it is going to be rewarding. The seas are as calm as can be while the air is cool and fresh. Isolated white clouds move against a rich deep blue sky as the morning sun shines a blinding reflection on the surrounding white landscape.

As if absorbing the scenery is not consolation enough, we are soon about to embark on our second Antarctic landing. Although the first zodiac will be leaving around 6am, I am in no hurry to be first in line. I am more comfortable getting to the “Mud Room” after the first or second wave of passengers have cleared out.

Boarding one of the last zodiacs, we are soon crossing the open waters traveling around 20-25 miles per hour. The cool wind whips the unzipped flaps of my parka but otherwise I am cozy for the boat ride. The zodiac produces an occasional spray as it is maneuvered, racing away from the Akademik Ioffe.

Yellow spots are spread over a bright white background as we approach our landing spot on Half Moon Bay. We are welcomed by Lynn our Expedition Leader and told to have a good morning while being free to enjoy the island. I set off to join up with a few yellow spots.

For the most part, I am fortunate that a trail has already been made in the fresh and mostly untouched snow. An occasional misstep and I find myself sinking up to my knees in fresh powder. At first, this is fun then it becomes exhausting. I quickly learn to stay on the beaten path as much as possible.

A bright sun warms the clear air and ironically I am almost beginning to sweat on Antarctica. As if to keep my expectations in line, gray clouds in the distance are producing snow showers on a nearby island. The winds are kind enough to send some of the snow flakes our way.

Our walk this morning will take us on a semi circle tour of Half Moon Bay with a brief stop at an abandoned Argentina Scientific Research Center at the midpoint. Along the way we pass a few seals basking in the sun and groups of penguins wearing helmets. On the waterway next to the island, kayakers from the Ioffe are taking in another view of the stunning scenery.

By the time I reach the Argentina Research I am near the point of exhaustion from climbing a hill while seemingly not being able to avoid frequently sinking up to my knees in snow. However, there is a reward in climbing up a snow hill, I get to go down it, sliding on my butt. Now, that was fun!

A short trek across more snow and I am listening to the sounds of gentle crashing waves on a pebble covered beach. I can feel the beach pebbles beneath my insulated feet as I walk along the water's edge. A quick commotion and a few tails break the water surface then a black and white body emerges a couple of feet from me. I stand still and watch. Not finding too much of interest, it's a brief visit on land then the cute black and white creature makes a graceful return to the sea.

Enough of walking, I spend the last of my time on Half Moon Bay sitting on the snow half way between the water and a colony of penguins on a hill above me. I watch as a few of them take a ritual walk up and down the hill. Sometimes solo, sometimes in pairs.

Going downhill most of them are dirty from standing in penguin “orange red” poop which comes from eating krill. Returning they smell like roses.

Interestingly, a few of them come back carrying pebbles from the beach below. These are used for nest building.

I know there is more of Antarctica for us to experience but it is so comforting here that our 9:30am last zodiac departure seem to come too quickly.

I reluctantly make my way down to the launching area and look forward to our next landing on Deception Island this afternoon.


Slideshow (1:43 Minutes)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od5ac_dR1W4

Video (8:29 Minutes)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cG_teu_8TXo

Another great landing. Chinstrap Penguins this time I think. What a wonderful time you're having DMBtraveler.

Keep up this great trip report! I'm loving it... I'm impressed you've made little videos of everything.

@Leslie_S -- I read your thread about choosing itineraries, so I guess you were looking at the Polar Star as an option, too... I really really really need to do a trip report, but don't have time at the moment. DMBTraveler's report, and eenusa's before that, do a fantastic job of capturing the feel of the place and the trips. Maybe I can find time to do a report just on the gear I brought, what worked, what didn't... Specifically for the balaclava -- you don't need one per se, but I brought two and wore them a LOT (only one at a time -- one was spare). If you don't bring one, definitely have something else to keep your face warm (like a scarf -- but be careful not to lose it, as it can be windy), as well as a warm hat. Sometimes, as DMBTraveler noted, if it's sunny, you might be sweating and overheating; but other times, this icy wind cuts through you.

@Leslie_S -- When you mention "having company" and "Shackleton"...

For the most part, you feel totally isolated, but often we'd see other ships on the radar, beyond visual range. Antarctic tourism actually is getting kind of crowded, but the various ships work together so that you don't have more than one ship at a landing site. And given the realities of the environment, people try to help each other out. On my trip, we were trying to navigate a much larger area of ice than forecast and ended up hooking up with an 800 passenger cruise ship on the other side of a floe of ice. They had a Canadian ice pilot onboard, and the two ships turned to parallel headings for a couple hours, to help each other look for leads through the ice. In an emergency, things CAN be bad, but so far, other ships have always been able to provide assistance. Back in the Shakleton days, wow... I did a South Georgia itinerary, and we had a replica of the James Caird aboard (DMBTraveler, was that still on the Ioffe? I don't know if that goes with the ship, or with One Ocean, or one of the guides). Tiny ship, and I can't imagine sailing from Antarctica to South Georgia, and then hiking across the glaciated peaks, after months of starvation...

Speaking of crowding, and hiking on South Georgia: our planned itinerary included a short hike duplicating the last leg of Shackleton's hike, from one bay over to the next one at Stromness. As we approached our landing site, we discovered that another ship had broken the pre-arranged schedule, and instead of going to Grytviken as scheduled, where we had just left and was gorgeous, they grabbed our next spot, blocking us out and thwarting the plans for the hike. Grr... That ship was the MS Delphin, and I made a mental note to never travel with that company, whoever they were. When looking up the Polar Star the other day, I stumbled into some stuff about the Delphin -- looks like a great trip they had, but then the operating company went bankrupt a few months later, with the ship stranded in port with no power, no fuel, no money to pay bills. I have to admit a bit of schadenfreude: Don't mess with Doctor Tripod!

SPT - yes, poetic justice that...

I know what you mean about writing trip reports - I always vow to and then can't find the energy when I get home. Thankfully DMBT is doing a great job with his!!
Sounds like a balaclava might not be a bad investment.

Sliding down the hill sounds so fun - hope we get that opportunity.

SPT,

Could not have done the videos without help from my little friend "Flip". I recommend everyone have a friend like "Flip". He is affordable (about $100) and makes a great travel companion

In hearing the stories about ships getting into trouble in Antarctica, I wonder how many of them have been ships involved with Quark Expedition.

I cannot say enough about their professionalism during my trip and it seems like their experience in the Polar Regions really pays off for their passengers.

Yes, they are a bit more expensive but I certainly felt I got my money's worth and would definitely recommend and cruise with them again.

As SPT alluded to there are a lot of operators in Antarctica and research into the companies behind them would be worthwhile.

I understand most ships are leased by various tour operators who then provide the expedition crews. Sometimes the ship's crews and expedition crews actually work for different companies.

Combined with language and cultural differences this can present a problem during emergency situations. This I am told occurred on the ship that sank in Antarctica a few years ago. There was initial confusion between the ship's crew and the expedition crew.

This ship got into trouble in part because it was the Captain's first trip in the region. Research and choose your Antarctic Tour Operator carefully.

EXPERIENCE COUNTS WHEN THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM FOR ERRORS.

THE ZODIAC DIFFERENCE

One of the unique things about visiting Antarctica on a ship like the Akademik Ioffe is the ability to actually land on the continent. Zodiacs make this possible.

Regular cruise ships also visit the Antarctic region in season but they are often limited in their ability to put passengers ashore. Zodiacs allow passengers to be taken to locations not accessible by other types of vessels.

Our landings at Yankee Harbor and Half Moon Bay gives us a good exposure to zodiac operations. On the Ioffe the zodiacs are stored on the stern (back) of the ship and they are placed in the water ahead of us lining up in the queue.

Boarding is done via a gangway on the right side of the ship after the zodiac is carefully secured in place. For safety reasons, there is a minimum of standing in the zodiac and most movement is done with a butt slide.

A fully loaded zodiac become quite cozy and I have discovered there is usually some advantage to being the last one in line, like a time or two of almost having my very own private zodiac.

Leaving Half Moon Bay we enter the zodiac by sitting on the edge and swinging both feet towards the engine. Then it's backpacks off and do the butt slide.

With calm seas it's a fast ride back to the Ioffe where we are unloaded one at a time with backpacks on and both hands free. Only three passengers are allowed on the gangway at a time.

Once back on board it's a quick decontamination of our boots and any other items that may have come in contact with the continent during our landing. Then it's to the Mud Room where another important step is suppose to be completed. A visit to the Akademik Ioffe Tag Board.

Here, we must individually turn our own tag so that the crew is aware of our status. Green on board, Red still ashore.

Announcements are made not by name but in general for those who have forgotten to turn their tags. I think these will become less frequent as we all get accustomed to the process.

A procedure in place to make sure “No Adult Get Left Behind”.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbfEMcU1AoU

SPT,

Don't remember a replica of the James Caird aboard the Ioffe but "I'm Old"

Off-topic, sorry, but congrats DMBT on being the most prolific fodor's trip reporter - is it true, 77 in 2010? Does that mean 77 trips in one year? I bow down.

JOURNEY TO DECEPTION ISLAND

Returning from our first landing of the day we are welcomed back on board to a delicious brunch as the Ioffe sets sail for Deception Island.

Although there is much daylight remaining, approaching our next destination, the weather seems as different as night and day. Under mostly cloudy gray skies the sun is battling to make it's warm presence known. The temperature has fallen considerably and along with the wind howling at over 35 miles an hour it is an experience that in an odd way I am enjoying. Jim Cantore would be proud of me as I faced the forces of nature “TWC” style, slanted.

Since others are more comfortable and smarter to enjoy the views from the shelter of the bridge, initially I am alone on the on the bow of the Ioffe.

However, soon enough I am joined by one then two other brave or maybe crazy souls. Our insanity and bravery helps us as we fight the elements to experience a true bit of Antarctica.

In a conversation with one of the passengers I am told the winds are over 36 knots (about 40 miles an hour), too much for kayaking. Therefore, he's now excited to join a few of us who are insanely looking forward to doing the Polar Plunge.

In taking in the scenery I am reminded that beauty can be found in all aspects of nature. Being fortunate to experience the most remote and sometimes most hostile area on the planet in and of itself is just awesome.

A rugged landscape covered in snow and a sea that can be unforgiving gives me a profound respect for what is here. It is hard to imagine being here in winter or anytime during the 180 days without sunshine.

Russian commands over the PA snaps me out of my imaginary thoughts and I get back to enjoying the reality around me. Although the wind is still relentless, on the port side of the Ioffe the sun is winning the battle in the skies as we enter the caldera at Deception Island.

The entrance to Deception Island is relatively narrow but once inside the caldera the island forms a safe harbor against the Antarctic weather.

Beyond the entrance is Whaler's Bay where we will make our next landing. From the winds and current sea conditions, I can tell our next zodiac ride could get interesting. Even inside the caldera the wind is cold and still blowing strong as it pours down from the surrounding snow covered hills.

Thankfully, there are more areas of blue skies where the sun's heat just might be breaking through.

Soon enough the Ioffe practically comes to a stand still and I stay on deck to witness it being anchored. By no means a simple process.

With the Ioffe anchored I can see our next landing spot which still has decaying buildings left behind from the long since deceased whaling industry. I am told at one point there was even an aiport located here, a part of one of a few scientific research centers that were destroyed by volcanic eruptions in the 1960's.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IRIy4-qSWU

LeslieS,

77 years old ... You are too kind

LANDING AT WHALERS BAY

Standing in the zodiac queue, Peter and I attempt to solicit more volunteers for this afternoon's possible Polar Plunge. Comparisons with Hawaii are not working and we fail miserably in our attempts.

Since anchoring at Deception Island the wind has continued to make it's strong presence known and the seas are returning the favor in kind. This makes docking and boarding the zodiacs a little more challenging than normal.

Today, it is a shorter ride to our landing spot and I welcome the ride from the small white cap seas.

Arriving at Whalers Bay we are given a nice introduction to the island by Lynn our Expedition Leader. Lynn's introduction also includes an open invitation for any of us crazy enough to do the Polar Plunge to return to our present spot at 5:45pm.

With the anointed time for our challenge set, Peter and I are off to explore a bit of Whalers Bay.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKbX5fyb9us

WALKING AROUND WHALERS BAY

The wind here seems even stronger than on the ship as Peter and I stroll around the black volcanic surface of Whalers Bay. Now somewhat in a valley, we are closer to the surrounding hills and that maybe a contributing factor.

We are told that in a few months this area will be covered with green plant life along with penguins that like to spend the spring time here. For now, there are only a few of them.

They are smart enough to stand with their backs to the wind or burrow into the ground for protection from it. Even some birds are dug in and asleep with their heads turned backwards to guard against the unrelenting wind.

Meanwhile, a few skuas have gathered near pools of standing water where others are taking bird baths.

I imagine with the blowing wind the temperature is somewhere in the 30 degree or less range. However, I am quite comfortable thanks to the parka provided by Quark Expedition.

Along the shoreline I am reminded of the Bob Marley's song “Three Little Birds” except the birds I am watching are sitting on crashing frigid waves and I don't think they are singing sweet songs and melodies.

I quietly wonder with a smile if there has ever been a Jamaican Antarctic Expedition Team. I know for a fact there has not been one from The Bahamas.

Scattered around this area of the bay are the decaying and fragile remains of the whaling industry. We are cautioned to be careful and not to touch them while viewing them.

It is amazing that some of the buildings were habitable given that the conditions here can become so cold and severe.

Next we head towards Neptune Window where we hope to get a glimpse of the actual Antarctica Continent which is about 19 miles away.

Then something interesting happens. Peter, Peter …..


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRrGuu_g1a4

<<I quietly wonder with a smile if there has ever been a Jamaican Antarctic Expedition Team.>>

I too am smiling as I remember that they did have an Olympic Bobsled Team!

Aw, talk about a cliff-hanger... something interesting about to happen, we don't know if you're going to go for your swim, ...

Thanks for the videos/photos of Deception Island. That was one place on our itinerary, that I wanted to see, but that we ended up not getting to.

(Oh, btw, when I was on the Ioffe, we had a rule of only one person on the gangway at a time (other than the Russian sailor at the bottom helping people). It looks like Quark didn't impose that rule on you all.)

SPT,

SPT,

3 on gangway for Quark. Deception Island was nice but it sure was windy. Not sure how it offers much protection from the Antarctic weather but it does serve as a safe harbor.

PETER, PETER ....

Lagging behind my friend Peter as we head towards Neptune's Window, I watch as the wind rips a waterproof protective cover off his backpack. This becomes an incident that we were cautioned about during our briefings on the Ioffe.

In order to preserve the beauty of this area we must be careful to not introduce any foreign items onto the continent. Although now an unfortunate innocence situation, a gray nylon cover is racing across the continent in search of a new home where it is not welcomed.

Our attention is now turned to recovering it but we cannot keep up with the speed at which it is moving. It is blending well with the surrounding black and white terrain making our search very difficult . Along with the cover's chameleon effect, the sun's blinding reflection off the snow covered hillside also compromises our efforts.

I see the cover blow around a small hill and this gives me a little hope that it will be slowed down as it will somewhat be sheltered from the full force of the wind. I am disappointed.

Our effort to find the cover becomes fruitless. I feel a sense of guilt and disappointment as I do not want to be a part of destroying or impacting the beauty that is here.

I hope nature will forgive our innocent mistake which unfortunately turns out to be the first of two that we will have made before the day is over.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ulOvMGXsGA

GETTING DIVE BOMBED ON WHALERS BAY

After a fruitless search for a blown away backpack cover, Peter and I are now out of time to explore Neptune's Window and begin walking back towards the shoreline.

A shrieking sounds comes from the sky and I quickly realize that we are being attacked. Looking up, a medium size white bird is making diving bombing runs at my yellow cover head.

Then comes Peter's turn.

Innocently we have walked near a nesting area and this bird is vehemently defending it's territory.

This incident exposes my naivety to life here. I think like most others, I am use to flying birds nesting in trees. Ummm, but there are no trees here. So let's see, 1 plus 1 really does not equal 3!

It would never have occurred to me to watch out for a bird nest on the ground. Another sin of nature committed here and I can think of only one way to cleanse our souls. Peter and I are now on our way to do so.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0DO1JM614o

TAKING THE TRUE POLAR PLUNGE

While there are many beers from around the world, we all know that there is only one King Of Beers, Budweiser. Quit laughing, I am serious. The same comparison can also be made in reference to Polar Plunges.

Although done annually in places like Minnesota, USA and Vancouver, B.C, there are only two regions in the world where one can experience the King Of Polar Plunges.

I happen to be in one of them, Antarctica.

Even with the sun shining, the weather seems even colder as the wind continues it's harassing ways. This scenario reminds me of a winter day in Minnesota where there is often clear blue skies but bitter cold temperatures. Something that becomes confusing to the mind if you are not use to it.

As we continue our walk along Whalers Bay, Peter and I discuss our individual strategy for the Polar Plunge. So far, I am favoring his plan. “Get In, Get Out, Go Home!”

Arriving at the the launch spot, others have already gathered for the plunge. The first plunger of our group is getting prepared as I review plunging instructions with Val, one of the expedition staff members.

Complimenting Val's instructions, the first plunger is in the water, “Just like that!”

Peter makes his entry and returns triumphantly. He vividly comments on the temperature of the water. “So, Cold!”

Since Peter is busy getting his body temperature back to normal, the plan for him to capture my plunge is not going to work. Fortunately, my Cabin 314 roommate, John is witnessing this almost insane spectacle and agrees to do the honors.

Sometimes it is interesting how the mind works. Even as the wind is howling around us with the temperature in the 30's, I am not cold as I strip down to my tropical swim trunks.

Ready to take the plunge, I pause a minute to remove my watch. I know it is waterproof but I am not sure if it is polar-proof.

Then I am racing into the wind driven waves with no thoughts of how cold the water is at that moment. I dive in to the applaud of the Russian judges that give me a 1.3 score.

It is only on my return to the shore that I realize, “The water is … F.. F... Freezing.”

Using a towel to dry off does me no good, the wind now becomes my friend and does a better job. Again, I do not have a sense of being cold but my feet are numb. I look down and although they have lost some color, I am thankful to still have toes.

Even with a 1.3 score, I feel like the King of The Polar Plunge, not bad for an island boy.

Yeah, Mon!

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgzsU1Hj_Vk

Definitely higher than 1.3 just for craziness - can't believe you guys did that!!!

LeslieS,

You know the motto of the "Seal" population around here is...
"We are never ever going to survive unless we get a little crazy"

So when in Antarctica do as ....

Amazing!

You're nuts but hurray for the nutty people!

Treesa,

I know a few people that would whole heartedly agree with your sentiments. I for one join you in saluting the nutty people

Major bummer about the pack cover, but good of you to make a serious effort to recover it.

As for the polar plunge... Isn't there supposed to be volcanic activity that heats up the water??? I always heard about, and see photos/videos of people soaking in little puddles on the beach, in a narrow region between too hot and #@#$#@ing cold. It looks like you all just ran into the #$!#$!$ing cold ocean! I bow to your superior insanity.

SPT,

Yes, I hated to see that backpack cover flying away and I hope it has gone some place where it will not do too much harm.

There were small puddles up on the beach area but I don't they were warm or deep enough for a plunge. They were mostly for the birds

It was run in and haul ***, out! An initial shock that makes you stand around longer than you probably should to get dressed back up.

I don't think I ever shook so much putting my socks on and could barely feel them because my feet were so numb.

Insane, yes but fun and worth the experience!

LEAVING DECEPTION ISLAND

Having completed a “True Polar Plunge”, I return to the Ioffe but not as fast as promised. A long hot shower that involves continually drenching my feet with warm water and my mild fears of frostbite are starting to subside.

Dinner this evening is served buffet style but the highlight of it all is desert. I get to have ice cream. And seeing as I almost froze my toes off, I think I should get to eat all the ice cream in the world.

What do you think Lieutenant Dan?

At the ship’s reception desk is posted the Polar Plunge List. Here, those that have taken the plunge check off their names on the list.

I am honored to be on the list, having survived a chilling but fun and memorable experience. From the check marks I can tell that almost 25% of the Ioffe passengers are nuts!

Besides taking the Polar Plunge the one thing I will recall most about visiting Deception Island and landing on Whalers Bays is the wind.

While having a glass of "fine imported" red wine, thanks to my roommate John from the UK, he tells me the winds are still blowing strong even as we sail away from Deception Island.

I am fascinated by this for two reasons. One, it seems ironic that Deception Island would be a safe harbor since we received little protection from the wind.

Second, it leaves my mind to wonder how brutal the weather must be here during the dark days of winter.

Stepping outside into a passage way near my cabin, the wind is so strong that when I turn my back to it I am literally carried from the starboard (right-side) to the port (left-side) of the ship. On the upper decks I am sure you would have to hold on to reduce the risk of being blown away.

On the open seas Deception Island is fading in the background as the wind and waves produce an occasional giant spray off the bow of the ship. Having had my fill of wind for the day, I return inside to the comfort of the Akademik Ioffe.

In a few minutes, I will head down to the ship’s bar where I hope to win a few “Nil Hands” playing a game or two of Spades.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlVbYOtUXcY

ICE, ICE, BABY

While sailing to our next destination that will have us navigating around icebergs, we get an opportunity to attend another informative lecture.

All right stop collaborate and listen ….

This time it is on ice. Earth Ice, Ice Shelf, Ice Crystals, Icebergs and Glaciers.

Joining the lecture in progress, I am glad to see there is a comedian on board the ship. A question is presented by the lecturer which asks. Which is greater by mass all the life on earth or all the ice?

The room bursts into laughter as the comedian responds, cows!

Did you know 95% of the earth's ice is glacial or that some of the bases of the glaciers in Antarctica are over one hundred thousand years old?

I am looking forward to seeing tomorrow some of the things that are discussed in the presentation. In particular “Blue Ice” which is formed over thousands of years when ice crystals interlock and there is no air spaces between them.

This trip is turning out not only to be fun and adventurous but educational as well.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siME6520_Nw

I GO WALKING

While most of my fellow passengers have retired for the evening, I am having a Patsy Cline moment and go for a walk.

In stretching my Patsy Cline moment, it is well past midnight by the time I make my way to the bridge of the Akademik Ioffe. From earlier visits in the day, I have befriended a few of the officers on the bridge and they welcome my company.

Off in the distance, I am told is another ship. It is the first one we have seen since leaving the Beagle Channel in Argentina four days ago.

From the signature on the Ioffe's radar display, it is believed the ship is the National Geographic Explorer.

We have now traveled so far south than even at midnight there is a fair amount of light and a sliver of the fading sun can be seen over the horizon.

As we head towards West Antarctica, I am told we are in the Gerlache Strait between New Scotland Island and the Antarctic Continent.

Again, the experience of a life time continues even past midnight.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beJvAFnz4fg

ZODIAC BUSINESS CLASS

This morning my planned after the crowd is gone arrival to the “Mud Room” is about to pay dividends. A zodiac final boarding announcement is being made as I am headed that way.

So far, I am the only one in the zodiac queue. This gives me an opportunity to chat it up with Emily another of the great Quark Expedition staff members. Emily runs the on board gift shop but I make no promises to visit as I am not a NBS (Natural Born Shopper). She makes another final boarding announcement but the status quo remains.

Today, I am the sole passenger on the zodiac with Jimmy the zodiac driver although he is also a marine biologist with a specialty in whales.

Leaving the Ioffe, I can witness some of the various ice formations that were talked about in the presentation that I attended last night.

As we race by kayakers enjoying a beautiful morning on the relatively calm seas, areas of “Blue Ice” can be seen along the shore line.

Along the way we pass small pieces of ice that have made their way to seas from the sounding frozen landscape. In some areas down here frozen sheets of ice can be found that are up to 30 miles long.

Just before our landing we stop at a group of zodiacs to pick up a few “riff raffs” that are anchored just of shore. Dr Timor, the ship's doctor, the zodiac mechanic and a few others.

My Business Class ride ends as I am welcomed to our landing spot by Lynn our Expedition Leader. Even without dinner, wine or a movie, I am one lucky passenger. This has been “The Best Business Class” ride I have ever taken.

Wait, is that a colony of Gentoo Penguins I see in the distance?

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP0f1zceJdo

NO HEAD PLANTING

Arriving at Nelson Bay, I quickly see one reason to give snow shoeing a try. Damien, one the expedition staff members is in the process of digging out one of the passengers who is stuck knee deep in the snow.

Damien, later confesses he is was more worried about losing the boot than the passenger. With the coming of summer he figures sooner or later she would be rescued by a passing ship.

He cheerfully tells us that Quark does offer a “Stuck Passenger Rescue Supplement”.

It is about in the 40's with crystal clear skies and serene winds as I get instructions from Damien on fitting and using snow shoes. He somewhat promises that they will prevent us from head-planting as we trek around in the snow.

I end up in a pair of fashionably red ones and start conquering the snow beneath my feet. Remembering how exhausting it was sinking up to my knees on Half Moon Bay yesterday, I am glad this seems to be working.

Initially, I stay on the path as I take in another set of gorgeous Antarctica views. A fellow snow shoer is off in the distance navigating foreign terrain but scares off a colony of penguins in the process. I remain still to give them the right of way should our paths cross.

Continuing my exploration, I leave the beaten path to give way to shoeless trekkers and my victory over the snow is short lived. Somewhere at the bottom of two feet of snow is a “Ruby Red” shoe, I guess I am not in Kansas anymore.

Recovering my shoe, a beautiful blue color reflects back at me from two to three feet below the surface. Refitted, I return to following “The White Snow Road”.

I am not off to see the Wizard, I am off to see one “Cool Gentoo”.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5glhZVFNQwI

Snowshoeing looks fun (other than losing one!) and no head plants, I gather. Bravo!

Snowshoes have certainly changed and streamlined. I was expecting to see what I guess are now obsolete shoes that looked like giant tennis rackets. LOL Thanks for the penguin shots. Always enjoy watching these wonderful creatures!

LeslieS,

The snowshoeing wasn't as successful as I would have hoped. I guess the warm temperature contributed as the snow was getting soft.

Also, I found it difficult to do the moonwalk

Gionvanna,

That's what I was also expecting concerning the shoes. However, with the tennis racket type you have to worry about head-planting

A GENTOO NATION

Being in Antarctica at the beginning of December, we are starting to experience the warming effects of spring. It is in the 40's as we make our landing at Nelson Bay where Gentoo penguins are starting their migration here.

At the top of a hill where the snow has started to melt a small colony is forming. You can tell this is where they have set up shop as the snow here now has an orange brown color to it and is smelly.

There is a bit of penguin conversation going on as I watch from the distance. I think the discussion has to do with who is going to clean up the mess around here.

Most of the penguins in this area are covered in filth and it is easy to spot the ones that have just arrived or returned from a nearby swim.

The Gentoo Nation is taking shape but I am afraid it will take a strong stomach to stand the stench when the Nation is at full strength.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNBN37Gis6c

Hmmm....I do always picture nature in its pristine state. And penguin poo is not part of that vision in my head. I wonder how different it will be by the middle of January when we're there. Surprising to hear 40 degree temps for you - maybe I can stop buying long johns and glove liners.

LeslieS,

I don't know if we just got lucky but throughout the trip we had pretty decent weather. However, sweating in my layered attire did surprise me on a few landings.

You may need to bring a clothes-pin and oxygen in January for some of your landings. The colonies are just starting to gather steam in December. I understand some of the places we visited would be covered with penguins in a few weeks which also means the area would covered in you know what

Ha- can't wait! They certainly don't show that in the brochures, do they? Only pure white snow.
Oh well, it's all good - all natural and maybe just requires some extra hosing down when we get back on the ship!

ICEBERGS, UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL


On clear days while crossing the North Atlantic I have seen many icebergs of the coast of Greenland but it has always been from at least 30,000 feet at speed of over 500 miles per hour.

This afternoon I am at sea level onboard the Akademik Ioffe as it is navigating a field of icebergs. I feel like “I'm the king of the world” as we cruise by these fantastic natural pieces of artwork.

Soon the Ioffe drops anchor and we are off on an afternoon zodiac tour. Our tour brings us up close and personal to these works of nature that may have taken thousands of year to create. I have the good fortune to be on a zodiac driven by Lynn our expedition leader who shares her wealth of iceberg knowledge with us.

It is mesmerizing being so close to some of these icebergs that I almost want to dive into the aqua blue pool that is created inside some of them.

I imagine for most people like myself, icebergs are thought about in a negative way because of the titanic type destruction they can cause. However, today my mind is changing. I think so would Rose’s if she had a chance to experience them like we are doing this afternoon.

Jack, I want you to draw me an iceberg like you did your French girls and the Eiffel Tower …

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMwLg2P6HrQ

A FLORIDIAN ON ICE

Somewhere far from the Miami Heat, I find myself quietly drifting in a sea of ice. Close by, I can hear only breathing and small chatter. However, in the distance a grumbling can be heard that is soon followed by a crashing sound.

I am sitting in a zodiac in Nicholas Bay, Antarctica along with a few fellow explorers witnessing nature's ice cold beauty and awesomeness. As part of a thousand plus year old glacier falls into the ocean the small chatter turns to woos and excitement. Even birds are thrilled by this action as it means an opportunity for feeding time.

At our distance the falling pieces creates a peaceful rolling motion on the sea beneath us. So gentle that the surface of the water is not even disturbed. If not for the limitation of time, it is a scenery one could enjoy forever under the warming sun and clear blue skies.

Soon the zodiac motor comes to life and we are off exploring more of Nicholas Bay. What my cameras do not capture my mind does and I hope it lasts a lifetime. Another wonderful and amazing experience in Antarctica.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAFdpZ9TPw

A 3 HOUR TOUR, A 3 HOUR TOUR

As we set out on our 3 Hour Tour the weather is getting nice and I have no fear of being stranded on a deserted island. There is no Skipper, Gilligan, Professor, Ginger or Mary Ann. What a shame!

Nonetheless, there are Aussie's Peter and Sue, Peter from Germany, An Expedition Leader and The Bahamian too.

The weather is unbelievable warm with clear clear rich blue skies above and calm winds. Aboard a zodiac we get close up view of icebergs and glaciers that add to our already amazing experience.

We are in Nicholas Bay home to one of the many scientific stations in Antarctica. Most are active only during the Spring and Summer months. Today, the absence of an Argentine flag tells us it is currently unoccupied.

With the warming weather areas of green vegetation can be seen growing on the rocky coastline. Nearby, a colony of penguins, Gentoos, have gathered on a rock soaking up a few sun ray's.

Cruising by icebergs occasionally we spot a seal or two relaxing. Often, they raise their heads to welcome us and express curiosity as we approach for a closer look.

In the protection of a bay surrounded by mountains and towering glaciers the water becomes even calmer. The zodiac glides through fields of brackish ice that have made their way down from the glaciers.

We are fortunate at one point to witness a piece of a glacier fall into the bay. Moments later we sense it's effect on the bay as the water take on a gentle rolling motion. Up closer the ride would have been a little more interesting.

In some areas of the bay, Lynn our zodiac driver turns off the engine and allows our boat to just drift along. The peacefulness and arresting beauty takes my breath away.

Dipping my hand in the refreshingly cold water returns my breathing as I retrieve what could be a thousand year or older piece of ice.

Continuing our tour brings us along a shoreline where birds are nesting in an area with more vegetation. Although the vegetation is just ground cover it adds a nice tropical mix to the surrounding scenery.

As we make our way back to the Akademik Ioffe, we come within mere feet of more spectacular icebergs. Towering white with awesome shapes above the water and shades of brilliant blues just beneath the surface.

Finding a reasonable size broken off from one of these monstrous works of nature, it is hauled into the zodiac. Later this afternoon we will get to taste a piece of our captured treasure, complimented maybe by a fine scotch or beverage of our choosing.

Approaching the Akademik Ioffe it is hard to believe our 3 Hour Tour is over. Waiting our turn to board, I am thinking I could spend a few good months deserted here even if it is just with Thurston Howell, The Third.

Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SWEkrxMTAk

Cool! Lucky you -- I didn't see a single glacier calving the whole time I was down there. Thanks for posting the video!

Absolutely gorgeous DMB! Memories you will have with you always. Loved the shots of the penguin, sea lion and gull. The icebergs, as you said works of art, were absolutely beautiful. Thanks again for sharing.

Ditto to what Giovanna said.

SPT, Yes I think I was very lucky on my trip. The sightings and the weather was amazing. My "Flip" did a decent job capturing the scenery but I wish I had could get a close up of the calving. However, seeing and hearing them live was awesome.

Giovanna & Treesa,

Seeing the gulls were a bit of surprise to me. I usually associate gulls with seagulls which to me equals tropical.

The blue colors and varying shapes of the icebergs were interesting. Must be a sight to see when they break off from glaciers. Some that we went by were pretty huge.

Lots of nice memories made and a few more to share

OUR FIRST ZODIAC TOUR

If our tour only involved drifting around for three hours I would have been happy. The scenery alone speaks volume to nature's fantastic beauty here. However, today we have a little icing on the cake as our zodiac driver is none other than Lynn our Expedition Leader.

I am sure the passengers on the other zodiacs feel just as fortunate as Quark has put together a great group of people for this expedition.

Leaving the Ioffe behind we are soon having close up encounters with weird shaped but spectacular icebergs. Next a landscape dotted with red one story square buildings comes into sight. We are looking at an unoccupied Argentina scientific station.

In areas where the snow has melted, vegetation has started to grow. Gentoo penguins and gulls find refuge in these areas that are signs of the coming Spring and Summer. This refuge can be welcoming especially for baby penguins as we are told at one time seventeen of them where discovered in the stomach of a seal.

As we venture inside of Nicholas Bay the water becomes tranquil and smooth as glass. The surrounding snow covered mountains and glaciers reflect peacefully on the unbroken water surface. Penguins and seals enjoy the afternoon on floating icebergs, mostly undisturbed by our presence.

Later, we come across an iceberg so huge it seems stuck in the bay. Above the surface it is bright white with areas of dazzling blues and a pillar of ice that reaches skyward. At some point this iceberg will reshape itself and may be liberated once it is broken down into smaller pieces.

Leaving the stranded iceberg we approach areas of towering glaciers where the sea becomes covered with pieces of floating ice. At one point we are fortunate to witness a section of one glacier fall into the sea. Minutes later while drifting, encompassed by ice we experience a gentle rolling motion beneath us from the fallen glacier.

Although there are other zodiacs around we seem to be in our own world. One that I am thoroughly enjoying and reluctant to leave. The time passes too quickly and soon we are back in queue to board the Ioffe.

The routine has become standard and it does not take long before the Akademik Ioffe is sailing us to our next Antarctic adventure.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHMxQK-Vo8U

SMOOTH AS GLASS

Back on board the Ioffe, it is as if we are sliding across a piece of glass as we sail to our next destination. The surrounding scenery beautifully reflects off the water surface as small pieces of melting icebergs float by.

We are headed southeast and occasionally you can hear pieces of ice being crushed beneath the hull of the Ioffe. Like the on board Zodiacs, the ship is specifically designed for operations in the polar regions. The Ioffe can easily navigate through the areas of floating ice.

The calmness of the seas is unbelievable and except for the humming of the Ioffe this offers a chance for a tranquil reflection of the beauty here.

Video:
http://youtu.be/oAAIrMn0tlk

SWIMMING PENGUINS AND MORE ICE

Seeking shelter from the cold wind, I temporarily enjoy the Antarctica scenery from the comfort of the Ioffe bridge. The wind has increased and the surface of the water is no longer smooth as glass.

Not only has the wind effected the surface of the water but also groups of penguins that are swimming of the left bow of the Ioffe. They seem to be providing us escort as the Ioffe navigates more areas of sea ice.

Passing huge icebergs and glaciers the scenery never becomes boring. With clear blue skies and a surrounding brilliant white landscape, each distance traveled reveals more of Antarctica's pristine magnificence.

Video:
http://youtu.be/PzJVg7RhbwM

NAVIGATING TO NEKO HARBOR

With such nice weather it is difficult to remain inside the Ioffe. Encouraged by the sun's warmth, I brave the occasional cold winds and capture more of the spectacular scenery here.

We enter more areas where the water is smooth as glass and it seems like the Ioffe barely causes a ripple. We are far enough away from the encompassing landscape that our presence does not disturb it's mirrored images on the surface of the water.

Amazing and colorful icebergs continue to pass us by as small groups of penguins frolic in the frigid waters below. I am living out a dream as if I am in a National Geographic or Discovery Channel documentary.

I hope someone will come by soon and pinch me. I need to wake up because another zodiac tour and landing is planned at our next stop.


Video:
http://youtu.be/XpBTa2GR4ow

Oooh, Neko Harbor was one of my trip's highlights. This should be good!

SPT,

Did you see any whales in Neko Harbor? I think we were there too early in the season. We were told it is usually a good place to spot them.

We didn't but the seals and scenery was still awesome

NEKO HARBOR, SPECIAL DELIVERY

Once again, it turns out not to be a bad deal being last in the zodiac queue. With only five of us in a zodiac with Dr. Tim, I have a feeling our tour of Neko Harbor will have a more intimate touch.

Leaving the Ioffe, Dr. Tim sets out assigning everyone except me duties for our tour. One passenger is assigned to look for “Minky Whales”, another “Seals On Ice”, another “Snow Petrels” and another “Humpback Whales”. I am left alone to be “Video Man” although as a group we are all responsible for glacier watching.

Since the weather here can be so unpredictable every outing starts out with us dressed to expect the worst.

However, it is another afternoon where nature welcomes us with astonishing weather. The sun has warmed the air in the mid-forties and the wind on my face is refreshing as the zodiac accelerates across the harbor.

Although several zodiacs are navigating the harbor, the area is so huge that encounters are only by chance. We are drifting in one area as an oddly crewed zodiac approaches. With a penguin on it's bow and two red-headed crew members on board we watch a bit surprised as it continues coming towards us.

We are in for a special treat. It's “Hot Chocolate Time”, with a touch of Tia Maria. Hard to believe life in Antarctica can get any better than this.

A quick Russian lesson by Dr. Tim as we sip hot chocolate then continue our tour. I don't think any of us are ready for diplomatic services yet but at least we know one word, “Spice e-ba”. Thank You!

One of our duties is filled as a “Seal On Ice” is spotted. This one is sleeping and Dr Tim turns off the zodiac motor and allows the water's current to pull us in for a closer look. As we are watching, the seal becomes aware of our presence and gives us a curios “nice to see you to” look.

Entering a bay closer to one the glaciers, the zodiac becomes encompassed by ice. The surface of the water beneath is barely visible and I have brief thoughts of trying the walking on water routine. Thankfully, another seal basking on an iceberg frees me from my idle thoughts.

Navigating from the frozen obstacles around us, the next seal we spot reminds us that nature and life down here is not always so kind. A lone crab-eater seal is on an iceberg spotted with areas of blood. This seal is having a heck of a time scratching an apparent wound and we are all sympathetic to it's plight.

Our zodiac tour comes to an end but there is more of Neko Harbor to explore as we'll next make a landing here.

Video:
http://youtu.be/SVHGdUQIprg

Hot chocolate with Tia Maria - now you're talking!!

LeslieS,

Only a little "Sweet-N-Sour" with some "Patron" would have been better

No whales on my trip in Neko Harbor (but we lucked out at some other points). My trip was in February, and we spent the time there in a gentoo rookery. Looking at your video, the ice conditions are so different from later in the season. When I was there, the harbor was pretty much ice-free, and the beaches were bare. In your video, you have that shot of plowing through all that clogged up brash ice!

SPT,

I bet there were gentoos everywhere! We did see some humpbacks but only from the deck of the Ioffe.

OFFICIALLY ON THE BLUE CONTINENT

After a fantastic zodiac tour of the area, our landing at Neko Harbor officially places us on the Antarctic Continent. Although I have much more to experience here and else where around the globe, part of a dream is complete. I have now traveled to all seven continents.

Our landing allows for a bit of snow hill hiking where we can take in elevated views of the surrounding area. The Ioffe sits anchored in the harbor below as a colony of Gentoo Penguins are squawking up a storm while standing around in guano.

Not to be left out a bird circles the area then lands to check out what all the fuss is about.

With warming weather, the snow is beginning to turn soft and walking off the designated path presents some problems. One of which is the creation of large deep footprints. In one of our daily meal chats we learn that these can be dangerous for our Antarctic friends. Partially filling them in can significantly reduce their risk of death.

Besides another series of spectacular views, this landing provides another reward for those that are a bit adventurous. Snow sledding without the sled. Dr. Tim leads the charge for some and waits half way down the hill to make sure the thrill does not stall out.

Walking down the hill a lone skua sits along the path not bothered by a bright yellow spectator. I watch awhile until it takes off in flight then I admire a few seals laying around that always seem happy to see me.

As if being a tour guide, a penguin walks along the path ahead of us as we make our way back to the Ioffe. I am sure it would make an excellent tour guide although we might just have a little language barrier.


Video:
http://youtu.be/RuguljUDX0Y

I think this video was perhaps your best. Such rather eerily beautiful scenery, with the intense blue against the snow. I, of course, loved seeing the Gentoos, one shot in particular of the lone penguin surrounded by snow.

And congratulations for having visited all seven continents. Would love to do that too, but we have a long way to go. Does cruising antarctic waters count? lol We need to visit Asia, Africa and Australia, having been to North & South America and Europe. Wish us luck!

Very nice!

when I was there, all the beach areas were clear of snow, but the giant snow hill you hiked up was the same. It's amazing to watch those little penguins work their way all the way up those gigantic hills!

A WHALE OF A SURPRISE

It is about 9:30pm when an announcement is made from the bridge. I am excited just from the tone alone in the announcer's voice. A pair of humpback whales have been spotted of the bow of the Ioffe.

The temperatures have fallen again so I dress warm, grab my best photo equipment and head to the bridge. In the distance, I see two shiny black objects occasionally break the surface as pieces of ice and icebergs float by. Water vapor columns rise into the air and it becomes easier to spot them.

The Ioffe has gone into a run silent, run deep mode as it is carefully maneuvered safely behind our surfacing visitors.

We are still a good distance away when a back arches and then begins to descend. Soon a V-shaped tail rises in the air touched by the sun's golden rays before it fades from the surface.

Earlier in our expedition we learned that humpback whales can remain submerged for up to 45 minutes. I am hoping this evening this will not be the case.

Apparently, this pair is feeding and the food supply is not too deep as they soon resurface. This time we are so much closer that I can clearly see a blow hole.

The Captain has done a nice job maneuvering the Ioffe and after about twenty minutes of watching these magnificent creatures the Ioffe is set on course for our next destination, Paradise Harbor.

Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GecZlWLh6-U

Great photos!

I have to wonder if this is the same pair of whales I saw on my cruise. It was also a mother and calf, and they spent around an hour playing around and with the ship.

SPT,

Probably so! I guess they can be pretty territorial. Our marine biologist on board told us he tracks the same pod every year in the Pacific Northwest.

PARADISE HARBOR

Although it is Spring in Antarctica not all areas of the continent have received the memo. We get first hand confirmation of this as our first zodiac landing of the day is canceled. After many attempts the Ioffe finds it's path time and time again blocked by sea ice as it tries to navigate into Paradise Harbor.

Not only is the sea ice a reminder of our current location but also the bit cold howling winds. Even with the sun shining only a few of us brave being out on the deck of the Ioffe.

I am so bundled up my roommate John is not sure who's behind the yellow parka and black face mask. Only with an occasional relief from the wind or by finding shelter can I get a glimpse of the scenery. More gorgeous pristine white landscape and another scientific research center in the distance.

I think most of us our glad the zodiac landing has been canceled. It might have been quite miserably under these conditions. Time too edit some photos, maybe.

Video:
http://youtu.be/gpfzTJmPh80

A LOCAL VISITOR

Since boarding the Akademik Ioffe it has been a part of our breakfast, lunch or dinner routine to have some type of demonstration or speech from one of our expedition leaders. Anchored just of Goudier Island, today’s lunch comes with a special treat.

We have a local visitor.

Niki, is a part of a group of volunteers with The Antarctic Heritage Trust that spends about four months out of the year living in Antarctica. At this point, I am envious.

In a few hours we will get to visit Niki's humble abode as we take a zodiac trip to Port Lockroy.

Video:
http://youtu.be/4sZEEjKPDl8

Wow, did she say where to sign up to volunteer?!

SPT,

Don't worry I signed us both up.. be ready to sail south, far far south ... April 2012

JOUGLA POINT

A short time after lunch we are boarding zodiacs for our afternoon outing. Groups of us will take turns visiting Port Lockroy and nearby Jougla Point on Goudier Island. My group first visits a very very windy and cold Jougla Point.

I spend the start of my time there with one of the expedition leaders, Damien, who has a wealth of information about the area. From him, I also learn about the various types of sea ice as we watch a seal frantically waving hello to us.

Here there are several colonies of gentoo penguins, blue eyed shags and kelp gulls. They are busy with spring time activities which become very interesting to watch.

At one time, this area had an active whaling industry at Jougla Point. Some of the sad artifacts including giant now gray whale bones remain scattered along the shoreline.


Video:
http://youtu.be/_5oggOPsgiA

BLACK AND WHITE CRIMINALS

In the bitter cold on Jougla Point, I am standing just mere feet away witnessing crimes that I am helpless to do anything about. Although this situation involves individuals with similar motives, I am not quite sure it has yet risen to the level of an organized crime operation.

And from what I can tell, Cut, Clarity, Color or Carat means nothing to this gang. Apparently, to them it is just all about “The Rock” and impressing the girl's.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be of much help to the police in solving these crimes as the participants all looked alike and fit the same bill.

“Yes, officer they were all dressed in black and white, about three foot tall and walked with a funny waddle.”

But can you blame them?

After all, a rock is a girl's best friend!

Video:
http://youtu.be/4sWo00HrkyM

Glad I checked back in & see that your typewriter is on again.

LeslieS,

Busy with work and other travels but ... the writing must go on

Glad you checked back, a few more Antarctica posting to post!

OH, BEHAVE

Spring time on Jougla Point would make “The International Man Of Mystery” very proud as there is a whole lot of “shag” going on.

And who’s responsible for all this shagging? You guessed it, The Blue Eyed Shags.

With nests built on shared grounds, from a distance they can be easily be mistaken for gentoo penguins. However, all doubt should be removed when you see one take flight.

The Blue Eyed Shag is the only member of the Cormorant family that resides on the Antarctic continent proper as far south as 68 degrees.

Although they normally breed between August and October, some late or second chance courtship is still going on in early December.

Yeah, Shag, Yeah!


Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txmynbzP4GQ

PORT LOCKROY

Located on Goudier Island, visiting Port Lockroy gives a glimpse of daily living in Antarctica and a nonchalant welcome by the couple hundreds or so black and white locals.

About four months out of the year the island is also occupied by four to nine temporary volunteer locals.

Port Lockroy is a natural harbor that was once a British military base in the 1960's. Taken over in the 1990's by the Antarctica Heritage Trust, today it is operated as a temporary residence and museum.

From here, work is launched to clean up other former British locations that are an eye sore to the pristine area.

Being properly dressed I am able to plunge down in the snow at 64 Degrees South and 63 Degrees West not worried about freezing my tush off. Nearby, a sled and other remnants from early human life here are on display.

Prior to entering the museum I am greeted by the local scavenger, a Sheathbill. The Sheathbill is content to clean up the mess around here even if it involves stealing an egg or two in the process.

Inside the museum, I get a quick confirmation that all along my personal hygiene has been on the right track. Due to the lack of rainfall here along with the process for collecting water, in the 1960's it was not uncommon to wait 9 days to take a shower.

Aren't you glad I use Dial?

Feeling hungry? How about some sliced bacon in the can or tasty kidney pudding?

Did you say you would like mayonnaise that looks like mustard on the side? Some Heinz, coming right up!

Or if you are feeling tired how about taking a nap in our comfortable munchkin bed?

Seeing the decor and items on the display I cannot image life being too comfortable here in the darkness of an Antarctic winter. A four month spring time visit would be more to my liking.

Although, I am told the showering cycle has been reduced to just about four days. Maybe I can adjust.

Headed back to the Ioffe, I discover we are in for another pleasant surprise and the weather is nice enough that it might all work out just right.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJgX13by0bk

Great shag shots! Now I'm stuck singing the Dial jingle in my head for the rest of the day....

I'm having hat envy - your fellow traveler's sock monkey hat is very cute. I'm still hoping I can prevail upon you to give a basic gear list when you do your wrap-up. I'm hoping one pair of waterproof pants will suffice, for example, but would love your 2 cents.

LeslieS,

Sorry, but at least it's better than "It's a small world after all ... a small small world"

A few of us also had hat envy but we got our chance for payback ... Stay tuned details at 11!

I will do a wrap up with my basic gear list. One pair of waterproof pants was sufficient for me.

Although there were many opportunities where you could get wet, mainly on the zodiacs, I cannot recall were getting wet was a big issue.

The main deal was has a nice set of thermals along with socks and then being properly layered.

COLD, COOL AND FUN

Think of being in one of the coldest areas on the planet and what we are experiencing this afternoon is one of the last things you would think about.

Thanks to the hard work of the on board hotel staff, we are having an Outdoor Barbeque in Antarctica! And to literally top it all off our unofficial cruise director, Val, has laid down a challenge. We have to come up with the “coolest” hats we can for the event.

I head right for the trash can.

Mingling on the aft deck as the sweet smell of barbeque chicken, steak and sausages fill the cold Antarctica air, I am delighted to see fellow passengers have reached for higher grounds to top things off.

From a yellow submarine hat, to one that is made out of sea sick bags there is a lot of talent at 64 degrees south.

Four contestants end up in a crowd participation voting for a bottle of house. For our guests from Port Lockroy, who did take a bath today, The Penguin Man is a favorite but he is not able to muster a win.

As night falls the fun continues once the "BBQ After Party" begins inside the bar where we are entertained by a fun magician. At the right moment, Val climbs the bar counter to get our attention. A treat awaits as a new music beat permeates the air.

Next, it's a bit of adult entertainment Antarctica style as a yellow parka comes off and the dance moves begin.

The fun seems non stop. Thanks to the generosity of two fellow passengers, Carlton and Rose a few of us even get to take a stab at the art of magic. Our first, second and third attempt at it goes down real smooth.

After all, how difficult should it be for a couple of “Wild and Crazy Guys” to make a liter or so of Vodka disappear?


Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCaCt-lMJv8

MY HEROES

I imagine if Willie Nelson had been on board the Akademik Ioffe he would have had another hit. This one centered around the certifiably insane “Polar Plungers” and I would have been more than happy to be his Quincy Jones.

On a nice sunny but freezing Antarctica morning, along with a few others I stand on the outside of the Ioffe cheering on fellow passengers. They are making the most of their Antarctic experience and just maybe proving their lack of sanity in the process.

From shrieks and shivering panting to back flips and underwater swimming, these crazy dare devils delight and entertain us.

And along the way I have found new heroes, ones without hats or boots!

Video:
http://youtu.be/at43SFCMlzQ

Cool shag photos -- I didn't get to see any on my trip. I have to say we had better weather for our BBQ, though -- a gorgeous sunny day with deep blue skies. And all those polar plungers are insane! (It's funny in your video where someone asks you about doing the plunge, and you starting saying something about not wanting to do it twice before you cut off the clip...)

SPT,

Shags were interesting as some of them where building nest. The penguins did not seem to be fond of them .. maybe because they could fly!

Yeah, it was not quite BBQ weather but still a treat especially mixing in the hats with it.

Once was enough for me on the Polar Plunge although I was tempted for a second try since warming up would have been a lot easier.

Hats off to those that went more than once ... burrrrr!

PS. Watched Titanic last night and it was interesting to see how casual they were around the water in the North Atlantic ... Guess it's not as cold as down south or maybe it's just Hollywood.

THE LAST ZODIAC CRUISE

It is bitter cold with howling winds as we launch on our last zodiac cruise. A fitting farewell to one of the most remote and coldest region on the planet.

It is not unusual that again I am on the last zodiac to leave the Ioffe. There are just a few of us on board with Dr. Timor. We would have been one less had I not convinced Peter to brave the cold and join us.

For me, the zodiac ride is fun as we maneuver over rolling waves and the cold ocean water sprays off the rubber bow. Even after several days down here the scenery that includes a landscape covered with pure white snow, occasionally highlighted with areas of aqua blue still fascinates me.

Before long we cruise past another Argentina research station then find shelter from the wind in an enclosed harbor. A few more minutes exploring the area then we are on our way back to the Ioffe.

While waiting our turn to reboard the ship a few of us share some of the memorable moments of our adventure. It seems like only yesterday I was sinking up to my knees in snow on Half Moon Bay. Only one of the many memories I will take from my visit to The Blue Continent.

Farewell, Antarctica!


Video:
http://youtu.be/e_KMQHACLFQ

It sounds like you're wrapping up your trip report, but I'm curious how your Drake Passage went.

Thanks for writing this! I've really enjoyed the write-up and videos...

I would also like to thank you for almost taking us along on your adventure. The videos and your very well-written descriptions of your trip were great!

Great narrative and videos. Thanks for sharing.

Srta. Medialuna

SPT,Giovanna,Treesa

Thanks!

Still a few more postings to make including our Drake Passage crossing. As you can imagine it is a time consuming but rewarding process to put it all together.

Glad you enjoyed coming along!

Hi, just getting back to internet after a few weeks off & I'm sad to have this tale coming to an end. It's been a fabulous read - thank you so much for all the effort you made to share with us. Loved the funny hat BBQ - how did she happen to have a pink wig in her luggage?
Don't know that I'll be breave enough for plunging- looks like they aren't in TOO much pain though. Maybe! Don't blame you for not doing it twice; once for pride, twice would just be masochism.

Thanks again and if you do get a chance to list basic gear that would be swell. Just ordered a hat online today - should've gone for the sock monkey one!

LeslieS,

The "Sock Monkey" hat would be so you

I will post my gear in the wrap up and will get it done in time for you.

A FAREWELL FILLED WITH CHEERS

With our final zodiac cruise completed we are gathered on the bow of the Ioffe for a photo op along with an appropriate send off from one of the coldest and of course coolest places on the planet.

Champagne is poured and toasts are made as we celebrate a successful expedition. It is a heart warming experience as I am reminded of the pleasant and fun international group of passengers and crew on board the Akademik Ioffe.

Cheers to Brazil, Bolivia, England, India, Australia, Holland, The United States, Taiwan and a host of other countries well represented on The Blue Continent.

Video:
http://youtu.be/zE3s9TrXfeg

Nice to see all those happy faces, going home now with memories they'll have forever. Thanks again for including us in the farewell. Will be sorry to see this trip report end!

BACK ACROSS THE DRAKE

Ironically, the worst weather we encounter on our expedition happens as we set sail back to Ushuaia, Argentina.

I adventure just outside my room to a passage way at the forward part of the ship for a small taste of true Antarctic ocean weather. The wind is so fierce from the right to left side of the passage way that it forces me to remain in the protected shelter of an inside hall.

Occasionally, a huge spray of ocean water blasts its way from the starboard to port side of the ship. The temperature is now so cold that this causes sheets of ice to form on the deck of the Ioffe.

Continuing my somewhat research exposure to the weather, I make my way from the inside to the exterior stern. As the Ioffe rolls and pitches on the high seas I am on it's starboard side when I get an exhilarating surprise.

A huge wave breaks over the bow and I get drenched!


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfQ2o6yE9cM

Giovanna,

Thanks for your kind words. It has been rewarding sharing my trip with you and others.

This was a nice group to travel with and I believe it added well to my Antarctica experience

That wind sounds vicious, but it didn't look all that rough.

BTW, I just saw your Bolivian Death Road video -- WOW!

SPT,

You are right it wasn't all that rough when that video was shot but stay tuned ...

IS THE GREAT AUK STILL EXTINCT?


With our sailing to Ushuaia well on the way, a few of us gather in the Ioffe bar for an evening of staff inspired entertainment. The fun begins with a reading of questions asked by former passengers.

Although we have a few laughs at their expense, I have a feeling given the opportunity a few of us might come up with some gems of our own.

I sense this by the pause in laughter and the deep thought given when we ponder one question that was asked about leaving the ship in Ushuaia.

"Should I put out my luggage before or after I go to sleep?”

Video:
http://youtu.be/fnnl3puGGC4

GUESSING HEAD GAMES

How difficult can this be? I am black and white and very popular. Being in Antarctica the first thing that comes to mind is a penguin but I am wrong. What else can be black and white, real or imagined and very popular. Michael Jackson? Wrong, again!

How do I find myself in this guessing predicament? Well it started with a beer and then volunteering to have a piece of paper taped to my forehead. Along with a few others, I am playing a head guessing game put together by members of the expedition staff. Another part of tonight’s entertainment.

I am not feeling to bad being unable to guess my the person or thing as I watch Carlton, a British passenger struggle with his clues. “A British politician in the last 50 years that everybody would know”. Don't say the answer if you know it, he is still trying to guess it.

After about fifteen or so, yes or no answers, I finally smelled a rat, well more like a mouse and got a clue who was stuck on the tip of my forehead. Ironically, I should not have thrown stones at Carlton. Can you guess?

Video:
http://youtu.be/ubgVAa1ghGs

Sounds like a fun game - those with sweaty foreheads or bangs need not apply. So...who are you?

Here is my guess: You are Mickey Mouse and your British friend is John Profumo.

LeslieS,

No worries, there was a lot of tape

Eschew,

You were half right

Carlton never asked if the person was male or female. It was the "BIG CLUE"

Do you remember, "The Iron Lady"? It was Prime Minister Magaret Thatcher.

I thought Maggie would be the obviuos answer. I am surprised your friend didn't got it. I picked John as he is more infomus than famous, and more obsure. He was the headliner on that big sex scandal.

Eschew,

He went down the "Male" track .... And never got on the right train

After Churchill, Thatcher would have been my next guess.

IT's 1AM

While most if not all of the Ioffe passengers have retired for the evening, I am wide awake and head for the bridge. The seas and weather conditions are not conducive for an outside stroll so I make my way there through the inside halls and stairwells.

At this time of the night there is only a sole occupant on the bridge and I am in for a treat.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ev_6pka4MP4

NIGHT AT THE BRIDGE

Although it is late at night, I feel my company is immediately welcomed on the bridge of the Ioffe. As the ship steadily maneuvers the Drake Passage to Ushuaia, the First Mate and I engage in an educational and light hearted conversation.

The wind is blowing about 40-50 miles an hour with the seas ranging from nine to twelve feet high. We both have a laugh that these are probably not the best conditions for some of the passengers.

It is exciting to watch as a huge wave crest over the bow of the Ioffe. I am sure this is just one of many that we will encounter tonight.

As the frigid sea water escapes overboard, it is hard to imagine it is the same deck we stood on just a few hours ago.

Video:
http://youtu.be/ovYKnrmm-NI

When do you sleep?!?

Great videos... I'm amazed by the quality in the low light.

And your comment about "sickening some passengers" -- that was exactly how I felt in seas like that: sick!

<<Great videos... I'm amazed by the quality in the low light.>>

Agreed! Loved the film noir you added toward the end of your trip.

SPT,

Usually slept through breakfast

Actually, it was quite bright for 1am in the morning, "White Night" and the Flip camera does a nice job.

$79.00 well spent.

Giovanna,

Still a few more videos to come before it's a wrap

NIGHT AT THE BRIDGE PART TWO

As the night passes the excitement of crossing the Drake Passage continues as we begin to encounter crashing waves more frequently.

One wave is so huge that the spray from it's explosion on the deck reaches the windshield of the bridge which is at least 30-40 feet above sea level. Ice has also begin to form on the deck and it reminds both of us of how cold it is outside.

Brrrrrrrrr, very cold.

Video:http://youtu.be/CZYhQKyd3nw

A TWELVE FOOTER

It is nothing short of spectacular to watch as a twelve foot wave crashes the bow of the Akademik Ioffe while crossing the Drake Passage.

Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJcEf8IOyDg

THE BEST DEAL

After about an hour on the bridge and holding my own in the rough seas, I am promoted from Paparazzi to Sea Wolf. To celebrate, I am offered tea along with pastries, breakfast for Sea Wolf.

Not sure what all my new position involves but I am given some brief lessons in Russian. I am now almost fluent with a vocabulary of three words. Dobre utra.

Having now spent an enjoyable time with a crew member along with all my other great experiences on this expedition, I am certain that of all the Ioffe passengers, I have gotten the best deal.

Video:
http://youtu.be/lEsmZPuI9kg

<<Dobre utra.>>

And Good Morning to you!

Congratulations on achieving Sea Wolf status. I think your fellow passengers also got a great deal, traveling with you. Based on your retelling of your trip, we'd be happy to sail with you anywhere. Thanks again for sharing your adventures with us.

Ditto what Giovanna said.

Giovanna, Treesa

Thanks again for your kind words. The interaction with you and others on this forum has made sharing the adventure even more fun.

Retelling the story keeps the memories alive and enjoyable. Ditto, to sailing anywhere together

STARBUST, A SUPER MONKEY AND A SHEIK

What do these have to do with The Blue Continent?

Well, bring them all together with a Scrubber, a Sandwich, a Super Rooster, a Ship Head and you are talking about Some Shameless fun.

Tonight, we have been given the challenge to come up with costumes centered around the letter “S” and except for maybe Sewage, I think the residents on Sesame Street would be proud of the creativity of this Salient Set of Sailors


Video:
http://youtu.be/X7VKCLc7HmE

CHARADES WITH A “S”

The fun now becomes a group effort as The Sexy Slouchers, Sexy Sealers and Sh** compete for the Satisfaction of the Akademik Ioffe “S Games” Champions.

Super Monkey lays out the rules of the game, words or phrases that begin with the letter “S” or has something to do with Antarctica that has to be drawn or acted out.

Shagging by a Super Rooster turns out to be a lot easier than drawing “Start The Zodiac” is for a Sexy Sloucher and who would have thought a Chinstrap would cause so much fun tension.

Video:
http://youtu.be/FmWBUIMyLI8

SUMO WRESTLING

For me, the highlight of our “S” night evening is a sumo wrestling demonstration by a group of elderly gentlemen who are more that happy to share a part of their culture with us.

With a good mix of passengers from all around the global this presentation is just one of the many experiences that has made this expedition a ton of fun.

Video:
http://youtu.be/XlKfHKCjVi4

AKADEMIK IOFFE MUD ROOM TOUR

Today our access to the Ioffe is broaden as we learn a little about it's history and everyday operation. Our tour begins at the point around which the ship was built.

For the past week we have referred to this area as the “Mud Room” but at one time it operated as a research lab with a sophisticated sonar system. The ship was even equipped with metal sails to avoid engine noise while sonar research was in progress.

Standing in the room we can hear the surging ocean waves through a six foot hole that extends to the open seas a few decks below us.

Video:http://youtu.be/0IXTrGbrOyA

AKADEMIK IOFFE BELOW DECK

Continuing our tour, we go one level below the main deck and the noise begins to increase. We are in an area where a cluster of machinery is at work helping to navigate the Ioffe along the open seas.

A seldom used desalinization plant, thrust boosters and rudder system are all located here. There are even spare propellers that can be installed while the ship is at sea.

Two levels lower and we are in the unbelievably clean engine room. Here, twin engines that consumes thousands of fuel a day operate in sync to move the 6500 ton Ioffe through the water.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_pCpq0LdV0

AKADEMIK IOFFE, THE BLUE ROOM

It is a calming and impressive effect as we enter “The Blue Room” where most of the ships electronic monitoring takes place. The calmness is broken when two technicians rapidly enter the room to diagnose a buzzing alarm.

Sensing that our presence my interfere, this opportunity is taken to move to our next tour stop, the bridge.

Video:
http://youtu.be/UP4aCEMcYJQhttp://youtu.be/UP4aCEMcYJQ

AKADEMIK IOFFE, THE BRIDGE

For the past week, I have spent a fair amount of time on the bridge but it is not until this trip that I get a more in depth understanding of it's operation.

Here new and old technology have been combined including a simple wooden steering block that reminds the crew of the ship's desired course. Even with all the technology, it is still the eyes and experience of the crew that provides for a smooth, safe and efficient operation.

We get a good explanation of the various control panels but I have a personal enlightenment when we arrive at the flag section of the bridge. Flags are an important part of a ship's communication system and can also be used on a personal level.

For example, did you know there was a dating flag? Not the same as the “I surrender”, white flag or the well known “Red” flag. No, this flag is white with a blue plus sign that communicates “stop carrying out your intentions and wait for my signal”.

Oh, the headaches that could be avoided if we all had to use flags!


Video:
http://youtu.be/s781ooLCVr4

AKADEMIK IOFFE, THE UPPER DECK

Our tour ends on what is now a spacious upper deck area. However, this was not always the case as this area was used for one of the three metal sails originally designed on the Ioffe. These sails allowed the ship to carry out sonar research without having to worry about engine noise interference.

On the upper deck is also located the seldom used crow's nest along with a flag system that uses various shaped black metal disks to communicate with other ships.

Except for little protection from the wind, the upper deck offers nice views from the Akademik Ioffe.

Video:
http://youtu.be/16KhZtzgbBQ

CAPE HORN

Our return to Ushuaia will take us near the famous Cape Horn. As a part of our daily after dining chat, Damien one of the expedition leaders and a great historian gives a brief presentation on Cape Horn.

Did you know Cape Horn was named after a town in Holland?

I am on the bridge as we approach Cape Horn which slowly takes shape through foggy over cast gray skies. There is a lot of radio chatter with Chilean customs official who I gather are trying to find away to charge the Ioffe a fee for passing near the area.

For years, this has been a disputed area between Chile and Argentina which at one time required intervention from the Pope to resolve.

Smoothly sailing along, it is had to imagine the disastrous naval history of the area. Many ships have been lost here trying to navigate one of the most dangerous ocean passage.

Video:
http://youtu.be/sZolakI52EI

PEALE DOLPHINS

It is a beautiful afternoon as we continue our journey north to Ushuaia and encounter a pleasant surprise.

A huge school of playful Peale Dolphins have decided to be the first to welcome us back to friendly waters. Crisscrossing the bow of the Ioffe they are a delight to watch as they obviously enjoy being goodwill sea ambassadors.

Video:
http://youtu.be/31ICT1Wsp1c

THE FINAL CELEBRATION


After a farewell Captain's dinner a few of us make our way to the bar for our final night aboard the Ioffe. The atmosphere is a festive one with Salsa dancing and group karaoke.

It is hard to believe this dream is coming to an end but it will be remembered as one of the best trips I have ever taken.

Video:
http://youtu.be/-EqbE78mPys

RETURN TO USHUAIA

Around 6am, I am initially alone on the upper deck of the Ioffe as we navigate the Beagle Channel towards Ushuaia.

Although it is quite windy, the weather is beautifully welcoming as the surrounding mountains are covered with more snow than when we left.

This has been an incredible journey that has bitter sweet ending. Many thanks to all who made it possible.

Video:
http://youtu.be/OQFIiVYCRao

Thank you so much for all the trouble you've gone to in order to share your experience. It's been wonderful reading.
You've gotten me super-psyched for our trip in January!

Great video of the dolphins!

Overall, wonderful trip report. It brought back a lot of memories. It was interesting that your trip, on the same ship with a different tour operator, had a lot more festivities than mine did. (Or maybe I just slept through all the parties. )

LeslieS,

You'll have a great time! Still working on the "stuff I took and would recommend" posting to wrap it all up.

Will look forward to hearing about your trip

SPT,

We did have a fun group which I think was exceptional for this type of cruise. Combined with the Quark personnel provided for this trip, we were destined to have a great time

I'm sorry to tell you I won't be as prolific a poster as you DMBT!! But I'll try to give a few tidbits about our trip to help future travelers.

I definitely would love to check out your gear guide when you get a chance to post that.

Really hope our group has half the fun you all did - but you set the bar quite high!

what a great report! I am just about to book a trip with Quark, and came across this. I've only had a chance to read through the first few posts, but defintely looking forward to sitting down and reading the rest. Thanks for such detailed information!

FROM HEAD TO TOE

This time last year my excitement was starting to grow as I was looking forward to my trip to Antarctica. One of the problems, if you can call it that, was knowing how to prepare for a trip to one of the remotest places on the planet.

It turns out to be a lot easier than expected and in the end I over packed!

TRAVEL

My itinerary with Quark Expedition provided for one night accommodation in Ushuaia prior to our trip departure. Being in Ushuaia before then is not a bad idea as there is a lot to see and do there. If I had to do it all over again I would stay after the trip was over and avoid the cruise day insanity at the airport.

HEAD

A nice wool cap would do just fine. One that covers the ears would be better and avoids having to pack ear muffs. There were days on our trip where a warm cap was not even needed.

At least two pairs of sunglasses works well. As most skiers know, the beautiful snow can be blinding and there is a whole lot of it down south even in the summer.

Although you might associate sunscreen lotion with going on a tropical vacation if you don't want to return home looking like a cooked lobster, bring it.

An adjustable neck warmer would be nice and I think would work much better than a scarf which tended to get in the way especially on windy days.

BODY

The importance of layering up and staying dry cannot be stressed enough if you want to stay comfortable on your outings. Two pairs of thermal underwear make a good foundation. I had one set made of 100% Polypropylene and another basic cotton wool blend.

Along with a Quark Expedition provided fashionable yellow parka, regular clothing and a ski type wet-dry pants I was able to stay comfortable on most outings.

HANDS

Although I did not have a pair, a few hip adventurers worn a combined mitten glove. This seemed to work well for taking pictures as it can be awkward to operate equipment with the fat fingers of a normal glove. You'll be the envy of the group if you have a pair of them.


TOES

Probably the most difficult part of your body to keep warm. Wool socks with sock liners seem to work best for me. I tried the chemical foot warmers but felt they were of little help when needed. A good pair of boots would be nice but not practical since you have to wear the waterproof ones provided in the mud room. However, it seemed just at the point my little pinkies were starting to scream “Help me, help me!”, the gang way of the Ioffe would be insight.


EXTRA, EXTRA, EXTRA, READ ALL ABOUT IT

Besides a good camera with telephoto lens like a Canon EOS Rebel, I used a simple point and shoot Samsung SL-605. I would highly recommend a video camera. Although most of them can be bulky, a Flip or similar one would allow you to capture the sights and sounds of Antarctica with ease.

With all your equipment in toe you will want to protect them with a waterproof pouch. I bought a 10 Liter one that was more than adequate. A waterproof backpack is not necessary but if you insist, I can sell you a new one that's unopened.

The Ioffe has a 220V electrical system therefore a 220-120 electrical adapter along with a splitter would be a necessity if you want to have your own in-cabin power plant. Also don't forget extra equipment batteries or a charger.

A camping type pin-less clothes line also came in handy and saved on a laundry bill.

MEDICINE

Bring whatever you think will work for you for motion sickness. There will be a ship doctor onboard with other free options. The rough seas for us were only while crossing the Drake Passage coming back home.

For all you planning and preparation no doubt you will forget something or over pack. However, you already have one of the most important things that I think you will need.

A sense of adventure!

I hope you will have as much fun or even more that I did on your journey to and from The Blue Continent, Antarctica.


Equipment Photos:
http://youtu.be/KBs4-FXEFpQ

LeslieS,

I hope "The Last Post" helps. I know you will have tons of fun and I look forward to hearing the bar has risen, again!

travelersusan,

When are you going on your trip? I found Quark to be a great tour operator to Antarctica.

Thanks DMBTraveler! Sounds like I have most of what I need gear-wise. Your suggestion to get a neckwarmer rather than scarf echoes another Antarctica travler's advice so I'll look into buffs. My toes are always cold but maybe I shouldn't bother with the toewarmer packets since your experience with them didn't wow you.

I will write something - nothing as epic as you - but look for a report next February, God willing.

Thank you again for sharing your adventure with us and the packing list is the cherry on top for me

I realize I am a little late to this thread, but I finally had a chance to finish reading your trip report (and watching all of your amazing videos).

I’m booked on a December voyage through Quark. It’s hard for me to verbalize just how excited I am, and reading your report has just magnified my anticipation.

Your packing list it quite helpful. However, I am planning on bringing bags and bags of the hand/feet warmers. I’ve taken them on plenty of cold weather vacations (although nothing like Antarctica) and they have saved me on many occasions. I’ve even been known to stuff them in other areas of my clothing! It is also worth noting that I’m from Texas, so not quite used to the temps that others might be. And it’s definitely hard to think about this now, considering we are on our 40th day of 100+ temps.

I know this must have been incredibly time consuming and I greatly appreciate you writing this report.

sorry, hit send before I saw your other message. I am on the December 18th voyage on the Clipper with Quark. I had been on the waitlist for months, and didn't think it would work out this year. But just a few weeks ago I received an email that a spot opened up, so I jumped on the chance. Within a few days, I had paid my deposit, booked air tickets and started researching other activities in Ushuaia and El Calafate.

I've read great things about Quark, and even had a friend who ran the Antarctica marathon last year and sailed with Quark, so I am confident that this is going to be a special adventure. Now the only problem is having to sit around the next few months and wait!

Once again, thanks for sharing DMB! Just got to watch the Horn and Dolphin videos today. Loved both. We weren't able to round the Horn on our cruise because of dnagerous waters, but we were treated to a rainbow, which made a great picture of the silhoutted horn. We've had the pleasure of watching dolphins on some whale watches we've taken, in particular one in Monterey, CA, but my luck with picture taking has been lousy! I do have lots of snapshots of water tho. LOL

Thanks again. The trip was wondrous and I enjoyed going along with the help of your words and pictures!

LeslieS,

Guess you might want to give "travelersusan" post on warmers some consideration... She seems to have a lot of experience with them and could probably provide some helpful tips.

Will look forward to your February 2011 post(s)

travelersusan,

We can all understand your excitement. It's a journey and adventure of a life time!

Spent a few days around Ushuaia before the cruise and enjoyed it. As I mentioned, I would also plan a few days after to avoid the cruise day mass exodus at the airport.

I understand El Calafate is also a beautiful part of Argentina. If the views from the air are any gauge of the issue then I would wholeheartedly tend to agree.

Hope you get a "Cold Snap" in Texas, soon!

Giovanna,

Buy a Flip and you"ll never miss the dolphin shots again! The software that comes with it also allows you to make snapshots from the videos you take.

I have the low end, Non-HD version and have had a lot of fun with it.

You and the other followers on this post have been an inspiration for me to share my adventure. To read your comments has been very rewarding.

Thanks so much and I hope you always have great travel stories to tell.

Thanks, DMBT, you're an inspiration. Enjoy your future adventure.

DMBTraveler, I came across a few of your posts on Fodors' U.S. site and was impressed enough to click your name to see what other gems you might offer and happened upon this one. I have fantasized about a trip to Antarctica and I read each of your posts and watched most of the videos. They were simply dazzling! I sincerely thank you for sharing your love of travel and this adventure of a lifetime in particular. Happy travels!