The folks in the Netherlands and Belgium forums were such a great help that I wanted to repay their kindness with a trip report. Hopefully my trip report can help others that are in the planning stages.
I am swamped with work (still playing catch-up from vacation) so I will probably post a day at a time. This will give me a chance to be a little more detailed.
I'd like to start with a little background on who we are and what kind of trip we planned. This way you'll know whether or not to keep reading!
This trip was planned for myself and my husband (DH). I am 33 and a professional (PhD level researcher) and DH is 44 and more of a blue collar kind of guy. I have previously been to Europe (London x2; Stockholm) but DH had not.
I love art and culture. I love to randomly wander in neighborhoods and pop into neighborhood restaurants. I could spend hours staring at paintings and love a good book. DH affectionately refers to me as a "nerd" or a "geek." I am not an outdoorsy kind of person....nature really does nothing for me. I don't drink or smoke. My idea of a souvenir usually involves food.
DH loves to laze around and watch TV. His idea of a perfect vacation is renting a houseboat or taking the RV into the mountains. Walking is not his idea of a good time. He drinks and smokes and couldn't care less about souvenirs.
I had been wanting to visit Europe again and I figured the only way I could convince DH was if I picked a city he would be interested in. When I asked him, his first response was "Amsterdam." This is likely due to the marijuana culture. If he had his way our vacation would have been spent only in Amsterdam.
Now, I want to travel the world, so I figured I would add some countries to the trip. This way DH would still get time in Amsterdam and I'd get to see more of Europe.
We started planning the trip in March/April 2010. My work schedule is very flexible but not so much with DH. So I wanted to plan a trip around Labor Day so that he would miss one less day of work. We were originally think to leave the week before Labor Day, but prices were $300pp higher leaving 8/31 versus 9/1. Therefore it was decided we would leave 9/1 and return 9/11.
I began my research by borrowing guidebooks from the library. I had no idea which countries to add. I started reading and decided on adding Belgium. Then I noticed this little country called Luxembourg and thought "Who knows when I'll ever be in this area again, why not squeeze in this little country?" So I added more guidebooks. I relied on Fodors, Frommers, Lonely Planet, Rick Steves, and Thomas Cook. I ended up sticking with Fodors & Rick Steves.
Anyhow, with more research we realized we needed more time and so I added an extra day. Air tickets were purchased approximately 8 weeks out. I tracked fares on Kayak and snagged a great deal on Delta. For hotels I decided to use Priceline and purchased about 6 weeks out. I was able to snag some GREAT deals in Amsterdam, Brussels, Brugges, and Brussels airport.
To get around between countries I decided on using trains. I did a LOT of research about rail passes and decided that it would be financially advantageous to buy a Benelux rail pass (saved us about $20pp plus a lot of time).
I relied a lot on these forums to plan my itinerary. Everything was finalized about 4 weeks prior and I spent those last weeks tying up loose ends and creating my "travel book." This was basically a document that detailed each day's itinerary (open/closing time, train schedules, prices, etc.).
The focus of our trip was:
1. Museums: We went to a LOT of museums, and I went far out of my way to see art (note: My art interests are predominantly expressionism and impressionism).
2. Smoke shops for husband in Amsterdam
3. Churches
4. Cultural sites
We did NOT:
1. Drink any beer or wine
2. Eat at any fancy restaurants
There is the background. I hope that you'll stick around to read about my great trip!!!!
12 Days, 2 Carry-Ons, 1 Couple in Benelux + Germany: Trip Report
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Looking forward to hearing about your impressions of some of my favorite countries,and hope you enjoyed them!
I want to hear about your Priceline deals!
And I'd like to hear the details of what you took / left behind that enabled you to travel with just carry-ons!
I'm looking forward to reading about your experiences, Di
Looking forward to your trip report!
Looking forward to your report Twiggers
looking forward to it
Welcome home, twiggers. Hope you had a great time. Can't wait to read your trip report.

Robyn
I too am eagerly awaiting your report
I hope that, with our help, your husband has caught the travel bug and you will be traveling the world very soon.
No beer, no wine, no fancy restaurants ----- awwwwwwwwh -----
Thanks all!


To answer a couple questions:
Priceline hotelsL I have booked via Priceline in the US, and was pretty familiar with their system. So I figured why not in Europe too? I did a lot of research using betterbidding.com. I decided that I would only take 4* hotels because DH was insistent on having air conditioning (which he later realized was useless) and I wanted to make sure we had elevators, etc.
We stayed 5 nights in Amsterdam. We ended up getting the 4* NH Carlton for $95/night. The regular rack rate was about 130 euros. So we had a small savings. I think our rate was higher than normal because we stayed for 5 nights.
In Brugges we stayed one night. We got the 4* NH Brugge for $75/night. Fabulous deal!
In Brussels we stayed at the Renaissance Brussels. It was a 4* business hotel and we paid $60/night.
In Luxembourg City we couldn't get Priceline
Since we were flying back from Brussels we spent our last night at an airport hotel. We ended up at the Sheraton Airport (perfect location) which was a 4* and we paid $65/night.
I put detailed reviews of the hotels on Tripadvisor, so I probably won't spend a ton of time on those reviews, but I'll give some general impressions during my trip report.
Carry-on:
Ahhhh...this we chose to do because I did not want to be lugging around a big suitcase on the train. And it was worth it!!!! It was so easy!!!
In my suitcase I had:
3 pairs of pants
4 tops
5 socks
5 undies
1 thin cardigan
1 bra
1 pair of running shoes (yes, I ran while on vacation)
running clothes
I had a bathroom bag with the usual things (tampons, brush, tweezers, razor, medicine, cotton pads, deoderant, floss, toothbrush)
sunglasses
My 3 oz ziploc bag had 2 bottles of conditioner, face cleanser, face toner, face moisturizer, Tide packets, chapstick, toothpaste)
clothes line
In my travel purse I had:
guidebook
pens
notebook
train tickets
daily itinerary
kleenex (yes, I caught a slight cold)
candies
credit card
small amount of cash for each day
I wore a money belt with passports, remaining credit cards and cash.
I wore on the plane:
jacket (all weather jacket)
pants
shoes
socks
bra
top
underwear
Travel pillow clipped to the outside of suitcase.
I came back with a lot more
I was very fine traveling so light, which is amazing for me. I did laundry in hotel sinks. One big load about 3 days in that took a while to dry (mostly DH's clothing - oh, and he pretty much had the same as me, minus the running gear). I then did a couple mini washes (running gear, etc.) two more times.
I wore my pants twice, socks/underwear once, tops once before washing. I am a big clean freak, but it actually wasn't too hard to wear pants twice. I don't think I could do tops twice...which was why I brought more of them.
Since it was September my clothing was pretty light. I made sure to stick with somewhat neutral pants and then the tops would go with anything. Navy, black, and grey were my pant choices. Nothing light colored in case of stains.
There is really a lot you can live without when traveling! Anything you forget or need can easily be bought, and becomes a souvenir.
What I left behind:
Special eye moisturizer
Special facial scrub (that I only use 2-3x week)
Electric toothbrush (I did miss it, but skipped it because of the weight)
Books (I really didn't have time to read anyways)
Laptop (I thought this would be tough, but I used iphone wifi when hotels had free wifi)
Extra shoes (never had a need for them. Extra shoes is really just vanity)
New clothing for each day (this would have been nice. Or at least not being so cheap and springing for hotel cleaning or finding a laudromat)
Really....I was just as comfortable traveling as I am at home.
General preparations:

Cash: I took $200 US. This was a just-in-case and also to pay for return cab fare when we got home. Never had a use for it. We took our debit cards, Visa, MC, and Amex. Used the debit card when we arrived in Amsterdam. Right in the arrivals hall. Withdrew 500 euros without a problem. Stuck 400 in my money belt and walked next door to the currency exchange and got him to give me smaller bills. Yes, the ATM gave only 50 euro notes. About halfway through the trip we withdrew another 500.
I used my Amex card for larger purchases (e.g., expensive dinner, museum passes). Never had a problem using it!
Each day I would put about 100 euros in my travel purse and keep the rest in my money belt. If I needed cash I would step into a restroom.
Safety: I was probably a bit paranoid, but I decided to use a money belt. I bought it from Rick Steves. It was VERY lightweight and fit fine under my pants facing forward. I did feel a little safer after seeing someone robbed in Amsterdam (more later). No regrets and I will ALWAYS do this in the future.
Train travel: I relied heavily on bahn.de to determine my train costs and schedules. I bought the Benelux rail pass which allowed for 5 days of unlimited travel. Since we would be traveling more than that I needed to determine which days to use the passes. I wrote this down on my itinerary for reference. Worked flawlessly!
In general we really enjoyed train travel. It was comfortable and generally easy to navigate (a couple exceptions will be discussed later). It was nice to stare out the windows and see the countryside passing by. We also had some fun on one journey solving crossword puzzles with some guys from the Netherlands.
More tomorrow!!! I'll answer more questions and talk about the travel to Europe and our first day....involves some train mishaps and a grouchy jet lagged DH
Day 1:
He complained most of the flight and said he would never go to Europe again. I had tried to prepare him! Mostly, I think he was overly cranky because we had been up since 5:30 AM and he just couldn't sleep.

This is travel + arrival day. Not the best part of the vacation! We flew Delta (best price) from MIA -> DTW with a 3 hour layover and then DTW -> AMS. We flew economy and since the configuration was 2-3-2 on the long-haul portion we took both of the '2' seats about midway back. I purposely took seats a little further back to guarantee that we wouldn't have problems with our carry-ons (i.e., being forced to check).
The first segment was pretty uneventful. On time and half empty. Layover in Detroit was find. Quick bite to eat at Chili's (bleh). Boarded on time and we actually left on time!!!
Now, this was DH's first time flying long haul. He's not a small guy...tall, broad shoulders (which is why we went for the '2' seats portion). The poor guy couldn't sit still. He was up and down the whole flight. This meant that I didn't get to sleep either
Arrival in Amsterdam:
Arrived on time. I think our flight arrived at the last gate! We had a good hike to get to passport control. It was a nightmare! Everyone was bunched up, no clear lines, etc. Finally, after about 10 minutes they opened up another non-EU line. We got through no problem.
Now, DH is grumpy and needs a smoke. I need to find a place to buy my GVB tram passes, since I know we'll need them when we get off the train. I needed a 5 day pass and so I went to the AKO store (as advised on here). Well, apparently they don't sell passes. Go back to DH to tell him and he's really grumpy now. Just wants to take a cab to the hotel. I wasn't paying upwards of 40 euros though. Off I go back to information and they tell me just to stand in the VVV line. Oy vey! What a line-up. That thing did NOT move for 30 minutes. Some woman just kept hogging up one of the tellers. People clapped when she finally left.
Finally my turn! Well, the VVV doesn't sell 5 day tram passes ARG! I took the 4 day pass, just to get out of there (it's already been nearly an hour since we landed). I'm just so tired! I also bought train tickets to Centraal Station.
I go back and grab hubby (he went to smoke) and we proceed down to the tracks. They told us platform 3. So we're standing there, and I see all the other tourists from the VVV line. We wait and wait (it seems forever since we're both cranky and tired). I hear a train that says "Central Station". I can't see anything else on the train, and we happened to be in a spot where you can't see the monitors. So we got on the train. Yea....20 minutes later the conductor comes by. We weren't on the right train!!!!!! I can see that DH is fuming now. WTG twiggers....DH's first exposure to Europe and I screw up the train.
Conductor directed us to the correct train and off we went to the correct Centraal Station. Got off and DH again wants to take a taxi. The trams were right there and I had the numbers written down in my itinerary, so we just hopped on. I asked the driver to notify me for the "Flower Market" stop. He did. Got off and had no clue where hotel was. Asked someone and they pointed! Our hotel (NH Carlton) was right there!
Check-in at hotel went smoothly and we went upstairs to drop off bags. So very tired. I had all these things on my itinerary for this day. Yea, that wasn't happening!! DH wanted to hit a coffeeshop, and goodness knows he needed it to calm down. Found one right across the street that did the job. He wasn't very impressed with the quality (Roker II), but about an hour later he changed his mind.
Decided that I wanted to get my Museum Card today, if nothing else. So we wandered over to the History Museum. No problem getting the cards, and then we wandered back to hotel. Grabbed a couple of hours of sleep.
Woke up around dinner time and decided to wander and find food. Found a small place across from the Flower Market. Had some yummy apple pancakes
I haven't seen very much of Amsterdam yet, but I like it. I love all the water and the architecture! I can't wait to explore the city more. A little disappointed that I really didn't "see" anything on my itinerary, but it will all work out!
So very tired.....tomorrow will be a big day! Need sleep!
Great report so far. It's difficult with a reluctant traveller - so much pressure to make sure things go well. I am not surprised you didn't see much on your first day - even if we do end up sightseeing on our arrival day, I never remember much anyway. Now we just plan to wander around and eat, stay up until evening, then sleep and hope we wake up reasonably adjusted to local time.
November: I agree, it was difficult at times...but even worse when tired and punch drunk. We are just incompatible travelers I guess. Which is OK....we try to plan something he really wants and then something I really want. After traveling back during the day when awake, we really wished there were day flights to Europe (leaving in the AM and arriving late evening)...you could arrive tired and just go straight to sleep.
I think I missed something... you say your husband smokes and drinks yet you say there was no wine or beer drinking on the trip. Did you make him go on the wagon?
I am not a big drinker but I can't imagine being in Holland, Germany and Belgium and not sampling some beers....
It's always interesting to find out what really unfolded from a poster like twiggers who planned her/his trip in part at least on Fodor's.
Twiggers..we have taken day time flights several times from the East Coast,US to London Heathrow and love them. Solves jet lag problems.If London isn't our destination, we stay overnight at the airport and continue with another flight in the morning to our destination.
Paris: Yes, hubby smokes. When we drinks it is only one type of whiskey. He doesn't really like beer and we're not bar type of people.
PalenQ: I know it sounds lame, but the trip report is kind of my way of giving back to everyone who helped!
Happy: Ohhhh...that is good to know! I think that may help DH with the jet lag/tiredness problems. The flight back was definitely better. He was up a bit, but not near as grumpy.
Excellent job using Priceline! You got some great prices.
We do the same as HappyTrvlr. We take an 8 or 9 am flight from New York/Newark to London. When we arrive at 8 or 9 pm, there is time for a late dinner and then off to bed. Even though it is early back home, we are tired from rising at 4-5 am and spending the day traveling, so we get right on London time. We also sometimes overnight at the airport and continue on the next day. Priceline is great for airport hotels at LHR!
Enjoying your report!
Thank you for that info travel. That is good to know there are the early flights
Thanks klondike!
Day 2 - Amsterdam


Stay tuned for more train adventures!
Had a fitful night of sleep. Woke up in the middle of the night, but then back to sleep. Finally up around 8 AM, which is late for us (the doggie usually has us up at 5:30).
Today's itinerary called for museums!!! Much to hubby's dismay
We wandered down by the flower market and found a breakfast place. Met an American couple that were on their way out on a cruise! For breakfast we tried the uitsmiters (sp?). They were just OK. I must admit, that I love greasy diner food, and that was just not going to be replicated in Europe. However, I'm not in Europe to eat diner food....so I enjoyed my fried eggs.
After breakfast we walked down to the tram and headed towards the Rikjsmuseum & Van Gogh. Ahhh, Van Gogh...this is what my whole trip was about! I love Van Gogh. He is, hands down, my favorite artist. Something about the thick paint and the short brushstrokes. I could just stare at them all day.
We started at the Rijksmuseum though. I was prepared for the smaller exhibit. I must say, it's not really worth the price if you are paying for an individual ticket. I didn't mind so much because I had the Museum Card.
So, in we went. It was very easy to follow the exhibit. Is it awful if I say I was somewhat disappointed? Except for The Night Watch. That was indeed a pretty incredible painting.
Hubby spent most of this museum just vegging out on a bench. He doesn't really "get" art. Although we did remark that "Rembrandt was pretty good." and that Monet "doesn't really look like anything."
We then walked over to the Van Gogh museum. There was a pretty good line but we walked right past them because we had the Museum Card. Now, I was VERY impressed with the layout of the museum. You basically follow his progress chronologically.
I was a little annoyed at how crowded it was. I usually like to stare at the paintings from afar, then walk up really close, and then step back slowly. I couldn't do this with a lot of the paintings because it was so packed.
We were there mid-morning, so maybe there is a better time that is less crowded? Nonetheless, I was happy that I was able to see so many of his works. I now have one more to track down (Starry Night in NYC) and I will be content.
After the museums I decided we would head over to the Leidseplein. I wanted to pop into BOOM Chicago and see if we could sign-up for a canal cruise by the St. Nicholas Boat Club. Unfortunately, everything that day was full and I really hate to commit to something later. I decided to wait list for a 2:30 cruise.
So we sat around and drank some overpriced soda (4 euros) and waited. Turns out we are super lucky and some people didn't show up. The captain walked us over to a nearby canal and off we went.
I must say, this is one of the favorite parts of my trip. We had the captain and 7 other people on the boat. It was a really old, restored canal boat. The Captain pointed out a couple things, but otherwise we just sat back and enjoyed the scenery. It was about 90 minutes and boy did we see a lot! It was such a great perspective. We were able to go under the city's lowest bridge (we all had to basically lay down in the boat!). The sun was out....riding past all the houseboats. It made us want to quit our jobs and move to the Netherlands. Of course, then I asked the captain how much house boats are and our dreams were crushed.
We did see the big canal cruise boats going by. They also looked fun, but ours just seemed a bit more authentic. If that makes any sense. Oh, and as we went by one of those big boats under a bridge I got splashed with canal water (we had to move aside quickly because the big boat wasn't moving over). Oh well
After the cruise we hopped a tram back down to our hotel. Stopped at the grocery store across the street. Wanted to grab some soda and munchies for the room. Walking through grocery stores is one of my favorite ways to peek into a new culture. You can tell a lot about a culture by its food! All the different kinds of packaging and different flavors of potato chips. It's fun!
Back to the hotel. We were tired! Dropped everything off and did some vegging. No napping since we wanted to get onto a regular schedule. After a bit of vegging we decided to try and find some food. I'm sure we found something, but I'm not really remembering what it was now. Sorry!
Quick stop at a smoke shop for DH and then off to bed.
Overall it was a fabulous day. I mean, how much better can you get? Van Gogh and an exploration of Amsterdam canals on a beautiful sunny day. *sigh* A little slice of heaven.
Tomorrow we are heading out of town
Thanks for taking the time to share your travel. How did your husband like the coffee shop scene and what did he smoke that changed his mind an hour later, inquiring minds want to know.
Hello twiggers
I'm really enjoying your report! Our next big trip next year is to these same areas, so I'll be taking lots of notes as I'm really just beginning to research. Love your idea of Priceline.
PA: My husband LOVED the coffee shop scene. We found one place called Dampkring that he really liked. The first place he smoked at I think the stuff he bought had Widow in the name. I think he was just grumpy and was determine not to like anything in Europe, but then he smoked and it was all good LOL
He ended up visiting at least 10 different shops. He really liked the hash and actually started enjoying the prerolled joints where tobacco is mixed in.
Since it was just him smoking he stuck with buying joints because he wanted to try as many different kinds as possible.
He tended to like the shops that weren't super crowded (i.e., he wasn't a fan of Bulldog or Baba in the RDL) and ones that had smoking areas outside.
Swiss: Glad to help! Priceline was a fabulous way to save money and I would do it again in a heartbeat!! The key is to not have your heart set on a certain hotel.
twiggers - I'm glad to hear that the St. Nicklaus Boat Club at Boom Chicago is up and running again. When we were there last October 2009, we tried to take a canal cruise, but the club was shut down for legal reasons. So I'm happy for you, but envious, too. We're going back to Amsterdam in April 2011, so hopefully St. Nick's will still be operating then, and we'll finally get our cruise.

"Van Gogh museum.... You basically follow his progress chronologically." I thought it was fascinating to see the different stages of his mental health reflected in the colors and styles of his paintings. You truly can take a walk through his life following the progression of his art. I look forward to reading about your adventures to de Hoge Veluwe.
So far it sounds like you had a wonderful time, despite the challenge of jet lag on your first day. Looking forward to more.
Robyn
Great start twiggers. I'm also looking forward to the de Hoge Veluwe and the Kroller Mueller.
This is a charming report, and I will follow it happily along with the others!
I'm really enjoying your report. Something about your writing style....I frequently sample reports but don't continue reading them because they're not that interesting.
I know why I'm following this report with interest & pleasure: there's a certain honest frankness that isn't always in TRs. One senses that things won't be sugar-coated to make the Travellers look better, and we thus identify with them. Thanks for taking the time to write so well!
Artstuff: Yes, I was so happy to be able to do the canal tour. It was so enjoyable! DH was marveling at the marijuana plants growing on the front deck of some of the houseboats.
Thanks LSky and taconic!
Pegon: Thank you so much! My job requires me to write boring scientific journal articles, so it's nice to write about something else for a change!
29FEB: Definitely no sugar coating here! Just honest frankness. Sometimes that puts people off, but I'm glad you are enjoying it!
Day 3: Travel to Den Hague and Delft!
Well, off we go! I am determined to master the trains. I am armed with my daily itinerary that contains train times, etc. The original plan today was to see Den Hague and make a decision whether or not to proceed to Delft. As you can see from the title, we did make it to Delft (thoughts on that decision will be detailed below).
Woke up and decided we would grab breakfast at the train station. Arrived at the station about 30 minutes before our train departure. This gave me enough time to confirm the platform and to try and find something to eat.
Today we used the first day of our Benelux rail pass. We had to get it validated though. We went to the first ticketing area and were told we needed to go to the international desk. Fortunately there was no line-up (as compared to later in the week when I saw a horrendous line). We showed our passports and were given explicit instructions to be sure to mark in the date each time or we could be fined.
Off we went. We grabbed a quick breakfast sandwich and some soda/water and went up to the platform. While on the platform I noticed this man in his 20s walking by VERY slowly and seeming to pay a lot of attention to my cross-body bag. My husband also noticed and told me to pay attention (I already was!).
We grabbed seats on the train. While on the train enjoying the countryside and little towns/villages, I noticed that creepy guy walking up and down the aisles. I had a hand on my bag at all times! Guess what? At one of the stops we saw him running by SUPER fast with a bag in his hand. OMG, he totally robbed someone!!!! I felt so bad. But there is no time to say anything to anyone because the train doors were closing and it was pulling away. This definitely served to remind me that you need to be aware of your surroundings at all times. I am certainly glad that I decided to wear a money belt.
Well, that was our excitement for the morning! We got off the train in Den Hague. I followed Rick Steves' instructions to find the trams. All the while my DH is saying "Can we take a cab now?" Poor guy, he really had no idea what he was getting into. He just wanted to smoke some weed and I'm dragging him all over the countryside.
The plan for Den Hague was the parliament building and the Mauritshuis. We got off the tram and had no clue where we were. I walked into a store and asked where the parliament was. We were quickly on our way (we were only a block away).
DH decided to sit down on a bench outside and I walked in. It was so pretty! I walked all around the main square. I really liked how compact the center area was and could just imagine it as a bustling political hub back in the day. I went back out and grabbed DH so he could snap some pictures, and also because to get to the Mauritshuis you have to walk through the complex. Once I actually got DH in he did go "Wow."
It was short lived once I told him that we had to go to a museum (yes, there was some eye rolling). I tried to tell him there would be some Rembrandt in hopes that he would lighten up. Didn't really work LOL
Off to the museum. We used our Museumcards to get in. DH had zero interest and so I left him in the cafe and started walking through. I liked this museum. It was compact and located in an old house. So not only do you get to see some great masterpieces, but you also get a feel for how the rich lived.
The big draw of this museum is "The Girl with the Pearl Earring." As I said before, I'm more of an impressionist/expressionist kind of person, but this painting was beautiful. So intriguing how one simple brush stroke created that pearl earring. DH actually showed up! He walked through all the rooms and remarked "Well, at least this is real art, not like that Van Gogh crap." Gotta love the man.
We didn't spend a lot of time in the museum. It really is small. I made it through in about 30-45 minutes. If you are a big lover of Vermeer era art, then you might spend longer. I often struggle with that. How long are you supposed to stare at paintings? Sometimes I feel like I rush through museums....but I just stop and look at the ones I like!
After the Mauritshuis I decided we would go on to Delft. It was relatively early (noonish) so why not. We were a little turned around, but found our way back to the tram stop. I could have walked but DH wasn't up for that. Poor guy was still looking for a cab!
Train ride to Delft was uneventful. Got off the train in Delft and I think we walked out the back side, so our walk to the town center was a little longer (figured that out on the way back).
Oh my goodness, walking into this town center!! It was so very quaint and beautiful. Even DH was impressed. We were starving though and before I embarked on a hunt for Delftware and churches we grabbed a quick lunch at an outdoor restaurant. We both had ham & cheese sandwiches.
I then saw "Apple gebak." Now, I have a friend who lives in the Netherlands and she said this was a must eat. OMG...this was singlehandedly the VERY best apple pie I have ever eaten. Believe me, I spent the next 3 days trying to duplicate it and didn't succeed. The apples were so thinly sliced, and the crust was a mix between pie crust and cake...but tasted like it had graham crackers. Just simply to die for.
My plan for Delft was to visit the Nieuwe & Oude kerk and buy some type of Delftware. DH, on the other hand, wanted me to find him a coffeeshop. Which I did. I dropped him off and told him I'd be back in an hour.
Walked over to the Nieuwe kerk first. The entry fee covers both churches. Did my typical walk-through with pictures. Then walked through the town square towards the Oude kerk (the pamphlet provides directions). It was so cool!! They were playing some type of game that kind of looked like lawn bowling!?! The whole town seemed to be out today! The streets were lined with vendors. So crowded, but so incredibly fun to be part of. Once again I thought "Wow, let's give up the city life and move to Delft. I bet everyone knows their neighbors!"
Went through Oude Kerk to see the Vermeer burial spot. Snapped the requisite pictures and was on my way. Stopped back in the town square to buy some Delftware. Um, yea...that wasn't happening. That stuff is ex.pen.sive. I did find a really cool porcelain Dutch shoe that is Royal Delft, but not handmade. And it was still expensive!
Time to pick-up DH and head back to Amsterdam. As I was walking I noticed these people walking with these big waffle looking things. Saw a stand in the market selling them and went up and asked what they were. They were called "stroop waffles" or something like that. Translates to "syrup waffles." Once again, the Dutch know how to do baked goods!! That thing was sooooo yummy and was only 1 euro.
Found DH. Poor guy was standing on the street corner. Apparently whatever smoke he bought made him paranoid and he said he had to leave. LOL.
Back to the train. Uneventful ride back. Wondering why the Dutch wrap their hay bales in plastic? Is it the rain? We still haven't figured that one out.
My plan was to visit the Anne Frank House. Instead of heading back to the hotel we hopped on a tram. The line-up wasn't too bad. This was about 4-5 PM. It took me about 15 minutes to get in. I had just read the diary before coming to Amsterdam, so everything was fresh in my head. DH decided to hang out next to the canal and wait for me. Why waste 8 euros when he has no interest?
Did the walk through. Very moving. Amazing how many people were crammed into that house. Also amazed at how much house there is! Those canal houses look so small, but they just go on and on. I didn't cry, but was close (I did cry at the Holocaust Museum in D.C., so I was prepared for it). Every time I think of Anne Frank, I just shake my head....just so sad.
Well, after leaving the house you're not really in the mood to do happy stuff. You kind of want to wallow in that glum, reflective mood for a bit. So we decided to walk around a bit. Wow, amazingly we ended up in front of a coffee shop (not hard to do in Amsterdam). After a quick stop we went back to hotel.
Had a lazy night. Just walked downstairs and grabbed some Chinese food and off to bed.
It was a great day!!! I was sooooooo glad that I decided to stop in Delft. It was such a great contrast from the big city life of Amsterdam. I really feel like I got to see a bit of the "authentic" Dutch life. I'm not sure if that makes sense...but that is how I felt. Seeing the weekend market and the locals playing that bowling game.
As for DH. He's doing better. The crankiness has worn off...likely because he is enjoying the coffee shop scene and is in his element. He's still not thrilled with public transportation, and has threatened Rick Steves more than once (in a joking way)!
Tomorrow the plan is to go to Kroller-Mueller. DH has said he will go. Anyone want to take bets on whether that happens???
Keep on writing; we're going to most of the same places shortly, so I'm taking notes. Though all 3 of us (me, DH and DD) love art and museums, so no difference of opinion there.
Lexma: You're going to love it!!!! Let me know if you have any specific questions about anything
Will you guys be heading out to the Kroller-Mueller? I'll be writing about it later, but it was really enjoyable.
ttt 4 later
bags are to help make silage
IF you're craving stroopwaffles , Trader Joe's sells "Carmel Bites" that are similar.
I am tapping my foot waiting to hear what you thought of the Kroller-Mueller. It was a museum that I want to visit again.
I have not been to the Krolle-Muller for a lot of years, but it made a big impression on me. At that time they had a room full of Van Gogh's pictures of potatoes. Bags of them freshly dug from the fields spilling our on the floor of peasant houses. Just looking at the artist's obsession with the dirt and dust still caked on the spuds in brown painting after brown painting made me realize for the first time how mentally ill the guy really was.
Look for them and see if you don't agree.
Day 4: Kroller Mueller Museum
So back on the little van to get to the museum.
Train ride back to Amsterdam was uneventful.
Off to bed...tomorrow we visit a real castle!
Woke up this morning and was excited to make another trip out of town! Today I am heading to Arnhem to the Kroller Mueller Museum which is in a national park. When I explained what the trip would entail (train + bus + walking/bikes) DH emphatically declined. He said he'd rather watch paint dry, or sit in a coffee shop all day!
So, off I went! I had my train times all set. Arrived at Centraal Station and looked up at the screens. I found the exact time, but the terminating station didn't match where I needed to get off. I wanted to be 100% sure (especially after the airport fiasco) and so I went and asked at one of the help desks. Yup, I was right! I'm getting the hang of this train thing.
Grabbed some munchies for the train ride and off we went! The train ride was pleasant and I got off in Ede Wengingen (sp?). Now I needed to transfer to a bus. I had the bus # (from Rick Steves) and knew it only came once an hour. I thought I might get lucky with my timing, but no such luck. I ended up having to wait around for 50 minutes for the bus. Not so much fun...mostly just read my guidebook for upcoming things.
Hopped on the first bus and asked to be notified when we reached the appropriate stop. There was a cute couple with two dogs on the bus. It totally made me miss my little doggie back home. We talked for a bit, I was so impressed that you could take dogs on the buses out here. They really support a "no car" lifestyle.
Off the bus, and I was starting to follow the walking directions to the park. I realized that I needed to know the bus' return time. I ran back to the bus to ask and the driver also said I could get on this little van/bus to go to the park. Yay! No walking and getting lost!! Hopped on the little van, which stopped at the park entrance to pay (15 euros). Unfortunately there were no famous white bikes available
Arrived at the museum. My sole purpose of visiting this museum was because it had the 2nd largest Van Gogh collection. It did not let me down! However, I was really struck by this museum sitting in the forest. It was an interesting contrast...modern in the woods. I liked it!
I walked through the museum. Great set-up and flow from one room to another. I was itching to get to the Van Goghs. Finally!!! An entire room...and it was packed like the actual Van Gogh museum. I could take my time and really stare at the paintings. One of my favorite paintings was here: Cafe Terrace at Night. I just loved it!!!
I really have no interest in sculpture so I didn't go through that and since the buses were so infrequent I didn't want to take the extra time.
I started walking toward the bus stop and saw a white bike!!!! Woooohooooo, I was going to be like the Dutch and ride away! Hopped on that thing and um, yea, that was a little hard! I run every day, but the bike has no gears...so it was tough. And it was a bit of a ride to get to the park entrance. It was fun though!
I then walked through the town to get back to the bus stop that would take me to the train station. It was a very quaint little town
Back in town. DH said he had a good day. Tonight I wanted to visit an Indonesian restaurant and instead of using trams we decided to rent bikes from our hotel. It was a little more expensive than Mac Bikes, but much more convenient.
And off we went! What an adventure riding a bike through the city. This is THE way to see Amsterdam! So much fun!!! There was a certain Indonesian restaurant I wanted to visit (Kantjil & de Tiger). Apparently it was highly rated. We were able to get in right away and ordered a 10 dish rijkstaffel (sp?). It was very interesting to say the least, but not something I think I would do again. Too much coconut, and I"m not a huge coconut fan. Nonetheless, it was an interesting experience!
Back on the bikes...I was on the hunt for some apple gebak. The Dutch know how to do apple pie!!!! We just rode around all over the place, totally lost. Stumbled on a restaurant along a canal and grabbed an outdoor seat. Ordered my gebak...not nearly as good as that slice in Delft (no pie would ever come close to that slice). And off we went again on the bikes! Stumbled on a coffeeshop on DH's list. It was so nice sitting outside along the lit up canals. Ahhhh, this is what we came for!
Back on the bikes, navigating the streets in the dark! Definitely an adventure
My overall thoughts on the Kroller-Mueller: It was a great museum, but a lot of effort to get there. You really need to love Van Gogh (or art in general) to make this trip. I would do it again though!
So sorry you are not into sculpture, Twig. The sculpture garden is superb, IMHO.
I know this is uncalled for, but I know that if I was as much of a pill on vacation as your hubby, my dear wife would kick me out, or add arsenic to my wine before the sun went down.
Nuke: I peeked out the window briefly (at the sculpture garden), but it just wasn't for me.
I actually expected it which was why the trip started in Amsterdam. My first choice for a Europe trip would have been Rome (which we'll be doing next May), but I wanted him to have something to enjoy. Aside from that first really grouchy day, he wasn't too bad!
As for the hubby....I'm used to it
Day 5: Muiderslot & Amsterdam


When planning this trip I asked DH what kinds of things he might be interested in and he mentioned castles. Wonderful Fodorites suggested Muiderslot since it was pretty close to Amsterdam. So, the morning was devoted to visiting the castle, and I purposely left the afternoon wide open to visit remaining sites in Amsterdam. Which means visiting all those sites I didn't get to see on the first day.
Off we went to Muiderslot. I got directions from the front desk of our hotel. I knew we had to take a bus, but I wasn't sure how to get to Amstel Station. We ended up walking over to the Metro and taking the Metro to the station. Walked right outside to where all the buses were. Hopped on the appropriate bus and off we went.
The bus driver was VERY nice. He let us know when our stop was and gave us directions to walk to the castle. As we were walking a woman with her dog stopped us and asked if we needed help! So friendly.
We walked into the town of Muiden. A very quaint town. There was a drawbridge and a set of boat locks with a little cafe next to the locks. We stopped here for breakfast. It was so pretty! You could see the castle down the river! The menu at the cafe was only in Dutch, but the waitress translated for us. It was so neat eating and watching the boats go through.
After breakfast we finished our walk to the castle. We were able to use our MuseumCard. We got a ticket for a guided tour (included in cost). The castle is this beautiful, perfectly restored castle complete with a moat! How cool is that? There are two different walks that you can do on your own. DH came with me on the first one (to the top of one of the towers), but sat out the second. Then we went on the guided tour. The tour was in Dutch & English, so it took a little longer than it needed to. It was interesting though. I really love these little glimpses into how people lived hundreds of years ago.
After the castle we walked back to the bus and headed back to Amsterdam. Once back in the city we grabbed our bikes and headed out. I had a lot of sites to see. Off we went to the Dam Square where I hopped into Nieuwe Kerk and the Palace. The Nieuwe Kerk was undergoing renovations/construction, but you could walk up top and walk around. The Palace was quite boring, to be honest. I wasn't that impressed with what you got to see for the price paid. I'd skip this next time.
Then headed over to the Church in the Attic. This was VERY cool. Even though the chapel area is under construction it was so interesting to walk through the house!
We then just aimlessly rode around the city and enjoyed ourselves! Dropped the bikes off at the hotel and walked out and grabbed a bite to eat.
It was a very nice day! The weather was perfect and we just enjoyed our last bit of time in Amsterdam. Oh, and on this last day DH ended up finding a chill coffeeshop almost right across the street! Go figure.
Tomorrow we are heading off to Brugges, but here are my overall thoughts on Amsterdam:
I REALLY, really, really liked the city!!! I loved the canals and the architecture! The people were also very nice. I really dug the laid back, liberal, tolerant attitude of the Dutch. The bikes were amazing and it was great fun to people watch everyone riding around.
I also loved the museums. It had always been on my bucket list to visit the Van Gogh Museum and I was not disappointed (OK, well, I wish I had the museum all to myself, but who wouldn't?).
I would definitely return in the future. I would have enjoyed spending more time in the smaller towns/cities around Amsterdam. Next time we'll do Haarlem
My husband's verdict on Amsterdam: LOVE IT! Primarily because of the coffeeshops
Stayed tuned for tomorrow....off to Belgium we go!
Twiggers,
I am enjoying reading your trip report. I hope your husband will end up liking Europe after this trip. You are one patience person!
Cafe: Awww thank you!!!!
Day 6: Travel from Amsterdam to Brugges; Day in Brugges
More train adventures today!!! Woke up a little late, had to hustle! We had packed the night before, but only had 20 minutes to get to train. Look outside and it's raining. Boo. I know, I know. It's Amsterdam and it rains. We got lucky though...this was the first rain the entire time in Amsterdam.
Ran outside to the tram stop and hopped on. I had money out to pay for the tickets (we only had a 4 day tram pass, and this was day 5). The driver declined the payment though! Yay for saving a couple euros.
Run into train station and up to the platform. Made it with a couple minutes to spare! The train we were on was heading to Brussels, but we were supposed to connect in Antwerp to get to Brugges. The train was SOOOO slow!! By the time we hit Antwerp we were 30 minutes behind....so we didn't get off. We figured we would get more trains going to Brugges from Brussels. Got off in Brussels and had about 20-30 minutes before train to Brugges. Train arrived (made sure to ask a conductor/worker that we were on the right train) and off we went. Arrived in Brugges and grabbed a taxi to the hotel. We could have walked, but I didn't feel like picking that battle with DH today.
Our hotel was very cute and in a great location (NH Brugges). It was already about 1 PM and I wanted to hit Brugges since we were only here for 1 day. DH declined, and so off I went. I had my Rick Steves guidebook and decided I would following his walking tour.
To the market square....OMG, this is just the most gorgeous thing I've ever seen. The step gables, the bell tower, just the whole ambiance of the town. Wow. I get what people were saying about how beautiful the town was. I saw the famous french fry stands in front of the bell tower, but decided to wait until later. I also decided to climb the bell tower! Yes, all 376 (approx.) steps! Oy, my legs were killing me and I run every day! Now, we had to pay full price to get in but because the tower was under construction we got a free museum entrance to use later. Once at the top I took a few pictures, enjoyed the limited view (due to construction), and rested my weary legs. The walk down was MUCH better and hilarious! There were two young guys from Britain behind me and they kept reciting lines from the movie "In Brugges." It was too funny!
Once down from the bell tower walked over to the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which was unfortunately closed for the lunch hours. Kept following the walking tour...just soaking up the prettiness/quaintness of this town. Was going to go into the Groeninge Museum, but it was closed to prepare for an exhibit.
I used my free museum ticket to go into the Gruuthuse Museum. It was nice to see a 15th Century mansion, but otherwise it was boring. The really cool thing about this Museum is that the owner of the house built a little room with a window that overlooked the neighboring church!
Next stop was the Church of Our Lady. Unfortunately, the outside was under construction and will be for the next 5 years...so no great exterior pictures. Once inside I made a beeline to the Michelangelo statue! It was my first time seeing one of this statues and it was VERY beautiful. Amazing what the man could create with his two hands.
More wandering up and down the streets. Stopped and grabbed an infamous Belgium waffle. Can I just say....OMG! Those things are unbelievably good. What is it in them? The sugar? Whatever it is....just unbelievable! Also stopped in a lace store and bought a small doily-type piece for my Mom.
Final stop was the Begijnhof and then I made my way back to the Basilica of the Holy Blood. Paid my euro to be able to walk right up to the holy relic (something red in a tube). I was also looking for Dumon Chocolate which was supposed to have a shop near the Markt Square, but when I arrived there was a note saying that location was closed.
I wanted to do a canal cruise, but thought DH might like to go, so I walked back to the hotel to check in with him. Nope. He had zero interest. So back out I went. Walked to Dumon Chocolates first and stocked up! Then over to the canal cruise. Having just been in Amsterdam with so many canals, and walking through the town already, this was a disappointment. Not really worth the money. I think it is something you should do first!
Once off the canal cruise I stopped at the french fry stands and grabbed an order, with mayo! The mayo was surprisingly good...has a little kick to it (which I later learned was mustard seeds). Brought some back to DH....this he liked! We hung out at the hotel for a little bit and then decided to go to the Markt Square for dinner. Although we were only a 10 minute walk he insisted on a cab. I was tired of picking fights, so I relented. Yea, what a waste. Had to wait 10-15 minutes for them to show up and then a short drive.
We decided to eat at one of the restaurants right on the square. Dinner was just mediocre, which we were expecting based on guidebook reviews (and reviews on here). The service was subpar and the food was just bleh. But again, it was more about the ambiance and I wanted DH to see the Square. He did grudgingly admit that the square was "cool."
Overall thoughts on Brugges: Some people love this town and others hate it. There were a LOT of tourists, but it wasn't overwhelming and it didn't inconvenience me at all. I really LOVED this city. The architecture was beautiful. I did feel like I was transported back in time. This is what I love about Europe!!! I don't think it is the kind of place that I'd want to spend more than a day....there really isn't THAT much to see. If I lived in Europe I think it would be a great place to spend a weekend.
I often think of places in two ways: Would I spend several days here or could I see it on a cruise in one day? This was definitely the kind of city I'd love to visit on a cruise for one day.
DH didn't really have an opinion on Brugges since he didn't see very much. He generally thought it was kind of lame and boring. Not big enough and nothing to do. Maybe he'll like Brussels???? I'm guessing he set himself up to hate everything but Amsterdam....
Tomorrow we are off to Brussels. Stay tuned!
It is straw that is wrapped in plastic and it is to keep it dry. You will see bales like that all over northern Europe.
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Silage is put in clamps, covered in black plastic and usually weighed down by old tyres. Silage clamps tend to be near the farm itself for convenience. the bales eventually also get moved to the farm too.
Nobody bothers much with hay making any more sadly.
Glad you enjoyed the Netherlands. A shame your husband wasn't a bit more interested in it all though. Still you seem to have managed to enjoy yourself anyway
Hetis: Ahhhhh that is what we thought, but we were curious why they choose to wrap in plastic whereas here in the US/Canada they are left bare. Is it because of the high amount of rain?
I really liked the Netherlands, and DH did love Amsterdam and wants to return. We're thinking a land trip in the distant future...maybe London (for him), Paris (for me), and Amsterdam.
twiggers - Just want to let you know I'm still following your trip report, and look forward to the next installment. I must say, I admire your determination to go out and have a good time, and visit the sites by yourself, while your DH stays behind.

I'm glad you got to visit Muiden and Muiderslot. Just curious, what was your husband's impression of the castle?
Robyn
Please don't run out of steam now - we are all waiting to hear the 'rest of the story' !!
Thanks for so much info. and such an entertaing story.
Hope you keep going - we'll be there next year and you are such a big help.
M.A.
Robyn: He thought the castle was interesting, but wasn't overwhelmed. He is one of those people that if he sees something from a distance or on TV/internet he has no further interest. We're just travel incompatible LOL
Maryann: I haven't forgotten....just have been so busy!!! I'll be finishing things up very soon! Sorry!!!
Day 7 Brussels
Is this starting to be a trend that it rains whenever we leave a city? So we called a cab to get us to the train station. Hopped on the train and off we went.
And he is so tiny!!! I took the obligatory pictures, but I found it kind of funny that this is one of the things that the city is so well known for.
Woke up in the morning and it was raining
My itinerary originally contained an option to stop in Ghent on the way; however, the more I read in my guidebook the more I was deciding against it. The stop would have been just for the church and I've seen a bunch of churches already and didn't want the hassle of dealing with suitcases, etc.
Got off the train and decided to cab it to the hotel. According to the online maps our hotel was near Luxembourg Station, but I didn't download walking directions and didn't want to chance it. I also had limited time in Brussels...so cab it was!
Arrived at hotel and our room wasn't ready. So we left the luggage and walked over to a nearby square. There was an American style sports bar so we grabbed some burgers. On that topic, we have had burgers a few times because DH wanted "American food." He kept complaining that they tasted funny (I didn't notice). Turns out that we were talking to someone from Belgium and they said that they mix pork into their hamburgers.
Back to hotel and checked in. I wanted to head out to the Grand Place and do my Rick Steves walk, but DH was content to stay in, so off I went. I grabbed a bus just around the corner from the hotel. Arrived at the Grand Place. Oh wow! Walking into the square....it was so beautiful!! I can see why people rave about this. It was just so beautiful. You could just sit here for hours and people watch!
I followed Rick Steves Grand Place walk. I walked all around the Grand Place and stopped into a couple of chocolate shops. I wanted to try as many different companies as I could....my consensus: It is all sooooo incredibly good!!! Walked through the Galeries Royales and down the Rue de Bouchers. This "restaurant row" was so cute! It's the size of a little alley but just jam packed with restaurants. Popped into the Church of St. Nicholas. This was a very spartan church compared to some of the lavish churches I've been in thus far. It was also very small. Walked back through the Grand Place and stopped and grabbed some waffles. OMG, once again, these things are just to die for.
Then I arrived at the Mannekin Pis. He wasn't dressed up today
I then started Rick Steves Upper Town walk. Walked over to the Notre Dame Sablon Church....very pretty church. Loved the gothic architecture!! Be careful though....there were several gypsy women with the fake children in their arms!! They were just sitting on the ground begging, but maybe if I bent over they would have tried something funny (I had read about this in the guidebook). Walked through the sculpture garden. I mostly used this as a chance to rest my feet. Then walked over to the Place Royale and the Royal Palace.
My Rick Steves walks were done, but I wanted to see St. Michael's Cathedral. The picture and background were very compelling. The actual church did not disappoint. It was very big and so beautiful! What was most interesting to me was the ability to walk underground to see an excavation site. It was so interesting to see the foundation of a church from Roman times.
Walked back to the hotel and I thought I would check out the EU Parliament area. What a complete waste of time. I don't recommend it to anyone else unless you just like walking through modern office buildings. Oh well, at least I burned some calories. Maybe I burned off those waffles!!
Dinner tonight was just room service. My feet were killing me and we had a long train ride to Luxembourg City tomorrow!!
Day 8: Brussels to Luxembourg City + Vianden Castle
Woke up early and walked over to the Luxembourg Station to catch a direct train to Luxembourg City. Now, I know a lot of people don't really consider Luxembourg when vacationing in Europe. In fact, many people probably would have gone from Brussels to France or something like that. However, I saw this little country on the map and decided that I had to go. I just couldn't think of another trip where I would squeeze this country in. Although I would have loved to have gone to Paris, I really want to spend 5-7 days there.
The train ride was pretty uneventful. We enjoyed the countryside and arrived on time. It was really hard finding a lot of information on Luxembourg City (I'll now refer to it as LC) and so we decided to hop a cab to the hotel. This was the only hotel that we didn't get on Priceline and was the biggest disappointment. It was very clean, but VERY small. There were no blackout curtains and there was some neon lights shining into our room. DH also said the bed was too hard.
Anyhow, we checked in and I decided to take off to Vianden. DH said he wasn't really interested. Turns out there was a bus stop right outside our hotel, so I hopped on that to the train station. Grabbed a train to Ettelbruck and then a bus to Vianden Castle. It seems like a lot of transferring, but services were frequent and easy.
The bus driver let me off at the stop. I look up and there is the famous fairy tale castle. Now, how do I get up there? I read something about a chair life, but I didn't see anything....so I started up the road. Now, I should mention that the castle is at the top of a hill, and I had just decided to walk all the way up! It was a pleasant walk though and took about 15 minutes.
Arrived at the castle and paid the entry. There was a tour group going through and I thought about hanging with them, but it was in German! So I wandered off on my own. I have to admit, while the outside of the castle was beautiful I was not that thrilled with the inside. Apparently the castle was rebuilt in the 1970s and it was just TOO perfect. If that makes any sense. I like the castles where you are climbing on your hands and knees up steep stairs! Once again though, I will say it was really beautiful on the outside! I was disappointed, but glad that I went.
Climbed back down to the bus stop and finally noticed the chair lift. Yowsers it looked really steep! Kind of glad I didn't see it at the beginning....I needed to burn off some of those Belgian chocolates anyways.
Back to the hotel. We ended up across the street at a Japanese restaurant for dinner. It was pretty yummy!!!
Tomorrow's plan is to visit Trier, Germany!
Twiggers: You're a trooper!! Keep going you're having a wonderful time, despite your DH's un-cooperation. At least he doesn't seem to mind staying behind, and (what?) reading, watching TV, walking in the neighborhood??
We drove thru Luxembourg on our way to Trier a year and one-half ago. I think you'll enjoy Trier. I particularly liked the Roman Baths.
Your report is great, and many of us are with you in spirit.
Eek, hands & knees on the steps in some castles !!! Never even thought of that before. Thanks for the tip - I don't like heights !!
M.A.
Maryann: LOL, yes...climbing up some of those towers are crazy!
Taconic: Thanks! DH usually just kicks back at the hotel and watches TV while I'm gone. Or wanders around to find some food.
Day 9: Luxembourg City + day trip to Trier, Germany
DH really ended up liking that form of transportation, so it's too bad we didn't know.
But was able to walk through the other church, the Dom. This church was big!!! They also have a Holy Relic...the Robe of Christ. You couldn't really see it though, which was a letdown.

Up early and grabbed the bus to the train station. DH commented on how short of a ride it really was! I went to the ticket counter but was told to go over to the international counter. Got the tickets and they were approx. 8 euros each way. This was cheaper than what the bahn.de website said! Grabbed some wonderfully yummy croissants from one of the food stores in the station and off to board the train.
Traveling so much on the trains, I couldn't help but compare the different countries' trains. This German train was, by far, the nicest train we had been on. This may be because the train was scheduled to travel for 12+ hours!
Arrived in Trier. I didn't have a lot of information on the city so I stopped at the tourist desk in the train station. They provided a small map and general walking directions to the Porta Nigra/historic center of the city. It was a pleasant 10-15 minute walk. We later found out we could have rented bicycles from the train station
We arrived at the Porta Nigra. Oh my, it was so imposing! It was so awe inspiring to think of how many people have passed through that gate. Just amazing. I walked into the main tourist office for a better map. DH then waited while I went through the Porta Nigra. It was very interesting walking through, and a great view!
Some of the sights in Trier are a bit spread out and to spare DH we decided to do one of the Hop On/Hop Off buses. I know...not the best way to see Europe, but DH insisted and I pick my battles. So we hopped on. It was kind of nice having the headphones to listen to historical things. In addition, I think we actually saw things we wouldn't have by walking around. The bus took us up to this high hill where we got some great shots of the city.
We hopped off at the amphitheater. DH waited outside while I went in. There are no seats left, but the main stadium floor and walls are still there and you can walk under. It was so interesting to think of the people sitting here and watching some type of show/spectacle.
I wanted to see the Roman Baths but there wasn't a convenient stop and it was a bit of a walk, so again...I pick my battles. We hopped back on the bus and got off near the Roman Basilica. Went through the Basilica. DH came in because it was free (part of his reason for not going into a lot of things was because we wasn't interested and didn't want to waste the money). It wasn't really that interesting though...just a big building (granted it was a big OLD building)...kind of austere.
Walked over to the two churches. Unfortunately Notre Dame was closed for renovations
Once out we decided we needed food! I also wanted to buy a couple souvenirs. We eventually found our way to one of the main squares where I found plenty of souvenir stands. I wanted some German bratwurst and some Strudel and we found a place that had both. YUM! The bratwurst was delicious! The strudel was just OK. My grandparents are from Germany and Grandma's strudel is much better! Walked back to the train station and back to LC.
Now, since we would be leaving LC in the morning (heading back to Brussels for travel home) I decided to do some exploring of the city. DH decided to hang out at the hotel. I ended up walking through the old town area. I wasn't really that impressed though. Just seemed very commercial, lots of high end stores, etc. I walked over to the area where you can overlook the valley. Now THAT was very pretty! I can see why they would refer to this city as Gibraltar. I wanted to see more of the valley so I paid for one of those touristy train ride things. It was very interesting though and, I think, a great way to see this part of LC. It was so interesting how there are homes and businesses down in the bottom of the valley! The commentary was really cheesy though.
Walked back to the hotel and called it a night. Tomorrow morning we have a long ride back to Brussels
I REALLY liked Trier. I mean, I really, really liked it. It was my first time visiting Roman ruins and it was just so interesting. I know I only caught a small glimpse of Germany, but I cannot wait to return (planning a summer 2012 trip to Germany/Austria). And DH? Well he really enjoyed it too!!!! He said that after Amsterdam, Trier was his favorite place we visited. I don't know if it was the food (he loved it) or the ruins (he thought they were interesting) or the Hop ON/Hop off bus (which we really liked)...but I'll take it!!!
LC wasn't really that interesting for me. I think I might have even enjoyed choosing Trier as a base and doing the day trip to Vianden from there...and maybe seeing something else in the Mosel Valley. Oh well, lesson learned.
One more day of vacation left!
Day 10: LC to Brussels for departure & Day 11 departure

Woke up early and went for a run through LC. I decided to run down into the valley and forgot I'd need to get back out! Definitely a good workout on my legs!!!
We used the last day of our rail pass and caught the train back to Brussels. Now, we needed to transfer from Brussels Midi to the airport. I kind of screwed up. I knew our station and I heard the conductor announce our stop and assumed it was the next one (nothing was announced in English). I forgot to look at the sign and got off. Wrong stop...URG! We had to walk up and over, talk to the info counter (who only spoke French), and then walk back over and down and wait 15 minutes. Stupid me.
We finally got on and I had the times printed out for the airport express train, but didn't know the platform. I was able to navigate the signage they have up on the platforms with all the train times and we ran to the correct platform. Made it with a few minutes to spare!
Got off at the airport. Our hotel was the Sheraton Airport and was apparently right across the street. We weren't really sure what level, so we stopped at an information desk at the arrivals level. Found our way and checked in! I wanted to print out our plane tickets. We were traveling Delta and I put in all the information and it said we couldn't do online check-in. Of course, that freaks me out....I thought it was because I had a Green Card. So we walked over to the airport (literally a 2 minute walk) but the Delta desk was closed for the day.
Wanted to grab some munchies for the hotel room and some food so we walked up to the arrivals area. Grabbed a quick burger. Walked over to the supermarket. Yes, an actual market in an airport!! Stocked up on some munchies and back to the hotel. It was Saturday and our hotel had ESPN!!!! I was in heaven being able to catch up on college football. We mostly just vegged out. Nothing exciting.
All told this was probably a waste of a day, but given that we were 3 hours+ away from Brussels we didn't want to take the chance (nevermind having to be up so early) of getting from LC to Brussels on the day of departure. Plane travel from LC was very expensive too.
We woke up the next morning early and walked over to the Delta check in desk. They said that it was completely normal to NOT be able to do online check in. Process was super smooth and we went through security. Grabbed a bite to eat and waited for boarding. Had some great conversations with a bunch of Americans returning home. I have to admit, I LOVE LOVE LOVE being in Europe and being exposed to different cultures...but it was nice to talk to folks from back home! It was also so interesting to hear what they were doing and why they were in Europe (one did a one day trip with his wife who is a flight attendant, one was there because her husband was in cooking school in France, and the other owns a vacation home in Belgium).
Flight home was uneventful. No seat back TVs, which really sucked (especially when some idiot decides to stand in the aisle for an hour talking to someone and blocking most of the TV). It was more enjoyable than the ride there. I think that was because we weren't punch drunk from being tired! Customs in Atlanta was quick and easy (even though I had to do all the biometrics stuff) and we were home on time.
I'll post all my final thoughts next
My final thoughts on the trip:

Was my planning worth it? Absolutely!!! The help I got here on Fodors, and from various guidebooks was invaluable. I am not the kind of person that can go on a major vacation like this without substantial planning. I'm fine with itineraries being changed, but it helps to be prepared. Who knows if I'll ever get back to these countries again.
Did I enjoy the countries/cities I visited? For the most part I have no regrets. I want to someday visit all the countries of the world, so I needed to visit these countries anyways. Was I disappointed with some places? Yes, but really, nothing is Europe is a regret.
What was my favorite? By far Amsterdam. I like larger cities and the laid back liberal attitudes are right up my alley. The architecture, the canals...just loved it all! And of course, my favorite artist ever, Van Gogh, has a museum there. I think after that I would vote for the smaller Dutch cities (Delft), then Brugges, Trier, Brussels, and LC.
What would I change? I would be pickier about hotels. I think I would have done an apartment rental in Amsterdam, and would have preferred something in the city center of Brussels.
Would I return? I definitely want to go back to Amsterdam and explore more of the countryside. And, of course, I want to return to Germany.
What about the husband's final thoughts? He didn't like the Rick Steves way of traveling. He would have preferred 5 star hotels, paying for laundry service, and guided tours (with a driver). Alas, we're not wealthy folks. He really, really enjoyed Amsterdam and riding bikes and wants to return. I did get him to agree to a 2 week trip in May 2011. We'll be doing a week in Rome followed by a 1 week Med cruise. He likes the cruise part because he doesn't have to walk around everywhere...and in Rome he said he'll rent a bicycle or just hang out at the apartment.
I'm happy I got to go on this trip. I've now seen another culture, been exposed to several new languages, and just broadened my horizons a little more. I love traveling and can't wait for the next trip!!! We have some Caribbean travel coming up (we live near a cruise port), but I'll be starting the planning for the big Rome trip within the next month. I cannot wait!!!!!
I'm more than happy to answer any questions about the places I visited
Thanks for reading! I hope this is helpful to other travelers.
Great report, very interesting read.
I'd love to hear your DH's tidbits and stories from your trip.
When my wife and I travel, there is definitely a point where I just want to sit down and have a coffee...and people watch, relax, just no more churches, museums. We usually spend a good part of our time checking out some of the country side.
But we always rent a car. Maybe that would help your DH; just w/ you driving!
Enjoy your May vacation.
bdokeefe: DH won't post on here
He's just not a big internet guy. The car thing is interesting though. He mentioned that several times, and I"m thinking that maybe the trip to Germany we'll rent.
Driving in Germany is pretty easy; good roads, signage, etc. Don't blame you for not driving in Rome, that is insane at best.
If your DH liked the Roman ruins he'll have a good time in Italy...take him to Pompeii.
Thanks bdo. Hmmmm....I"ll have to look into possible day trips to Pompeii. I'm hoping he'll like Rome, plus my brother-in-law will be coming along so he'll have someone to hang with during the day.
twiggers,
Great trip report!
"I did get him to agree to a 2 week trip in May 2011."
Great, there is hope he will eventually enjoy traveling, fingers crossed.
Yes cafe....I hope to get him to enjoy it more. I try to mix in things he wants to do with things I want to do. Fortunately, he is content to relax at the hotel, and I've learned to stop bugging him when he has no interest.
I thought I'd ask your DH about one of his main interests, which seems to be the coffee houses. In Amsterdam, which did he think were the best; the most atmospheric, the best menus, friendliness of staff? We are going to many of the same places in April: my DH and I are both interested in museums, history, art, food, botanical gardens, castles, but also the coffee houses, as they are unique to Amsterdam. I like to take taxis too after long days of walking--my feet hurt--or if you have suitcases to drag. I also like the better hotels, because you usually get better beds. My DH gives in on these things, and I often do what he wants. You build travel compatibility over the years--we've been together for 33 years and we love to travel; I'm the planner, he's the one who navigates once we're there. It all works out if you both try. It sounds like your DH could give some pointers on where to experience the best coffee houses of Amsterdam. Also, where you rode the white bikes, is it hilly?
Congratulations, twiggers, on finishing your trip report! Great job. My husband got up early this morning and ended up reading and enjoying your report also. Thanks for taking the time to post.

countrychick - When in April will you be in Amsterdam? I'll be there between the 13-22, and plan on organizing a GTG (get together) at some point. I hope you will be able to attend.
Check out the following link for a really great interactive coffeeshop map, as well as other info.
www.coffeeshopdirect.com
Robyn
Robyn: I"m glad you and your hubby enjoyed the report! Yours was such a big help for me
countrychick: The white bikes in Armhem are all flat land!!!!
As for coffee shops: I will say that his favorite was Dampkring. He loved the atmosphere and apparently the product was good too. He really didn't like the ones in really touristy areas like the Red Light District (too jam packed with young kids) and the Leidseplein. We also stopped by Dutch Flowers one evening and he liked that because you could sit outside and smoke (which I also appreciated since I don't smoke).
He didn't really have a lot of comments about good vs. bad product. He said it was all better than anything over here in the US and comparable to some product he's tried in Canada.
We were there a month before harvest, so he was a little bummed about that!
I really appreciate your insight regarding travel compatability. We have made some progress. I used to nag him in the past to visit things he didn't care about. Now I'm fine with just leaving him at the hotel and bringing him something back (food, etc.). I am just not cool with driving past things and saying "I've seen that now." I need to get out and walk around. DH likes the sitting back and not getting out. So I'm contemplating maybe doing some type of driving tour in Rome and then going off myself to really see things. DH wants to rent scooters, but I'm not comfortable with that in Rome.
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Twiggers: Thank you (and DH) for the info about coffee shops. It must be quite the scene. I can't imagine anything stronger than what we have here in Northern California (in the dispensaries). I would need something far weaker or I might not make it out of the hotel at all! Also, thanks for your comments re: Anne Frank house. I think I'll re-read it before we go. Any other must-do for you?
Artstuff: We plan to be in Amsterdam April 1 - 6. Then maybe move around. Has anyone been to the coast near The Hague? I think it's called Scheveningen? Not sure of our itinerary until I've got plane tickets in hand. Van Gogh is definitely on my list of paintings. Also LOVE the early Flemish painters, like the Brueghels, Jan Van Eyck, H. Bosch, and later, Magritte. Can't wait!
Country: DH is originally from Northern California...he said it was very comparable to Humboldt County stuff.
In Amsterdam I think the Van Gogh was a must-do because he is my favorite artist. Also, a stroll through the Red Light District was an experience...not just the girls, but the entire atmosphere. Finally, a canal cruise with St. Nicolaas was an absolute must. Probably the favorite part of our trip!
Thank you for the detailed trip report! I'm bookmarking it for a possible trip in April 2011.
Your very welcome misty!