Hi. This trip is my DH's 50th b'day present. I spent a semester in Madrid 20 years ago and am so happy to return to Spain. This is DH"s first trip. We have 3 nights in Sevilla (Fri, Sat and Sunday) and then we go to Madrid for 4 nights.
I have never been to Seville and need some help with our itinerary. I want this part of the trip to be relaxing. We love walking around neighborhoods for the flavor. We will be visiting the Prado in Madrid so will not be visiting the fine arts museum.
We arrive in Madrid at 7 am from the US and we will then take bus or cab to Atocha to get the 11 am train to Sevilla. We are renting an apt. in the Arenal neighborhood. We should arrive around 2 pm. We will take a quick shower and unpack.
I am thinking a Santa Cruz walk and a quick view of the Catedral and La Giralda would be a good first day intro. Then we shall have tapas, wak a bit more, and off to bed by 10.
First full day - Concepcion walking tour of Sevilla in the am and Concepcion tour of Alcazar in the afternoon. http://www.sevillawalkingtours.com/. Can we also fit in a Triana visit since the shops are closed on Sunday?
Sunday-since the Cathedral and Giralda don't open til 2:30, I was looking at the Art Market for Sunday am, along with the Parque Maria Luisa and Plaza Espana and an afteroon visit to the Cathedral. Is this too much? Is this all walkable or would I take a bus? Can i fit the Cathedral in Sat?
Casa de la Memoria for the 7:30 show. also wanted to see the Metropol Parasol for sunset.
Are my days too crowded? Are there any hidden gems that I am missing? Thanks for your help.
2 1/2 day sevilla itinerary
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When are you doing this trip, and where are you flying in from?
If it's an overnight international flight, you'll find the first day can be a drag, especially if you have to wait around any length to get into your apartment in Sevilla. My advice would be to forget the apartment and book a hotel for your 2-1/2 day adventure in Sevilla.
You'll want to take a look at ExploreSeville.com to see what's happening on your dates. And take a look at Maribel's Guide to Madrid (www.maribelsguides.com) and esMadrid.com to see what's happening in Madrid during your stay.
Robert, thanks. We already booked our apartment in the Arenal (Quiros attic apt) . We have a direct flight from the US and can check into our apt at 2.
We will be in Seville May 24-27 and Mardrid May 27-31. Given the short period of time we have in each city, how does our SEville itinerary look? THanks
It's doable, but a bit hectic... Jet lag will set in by late morning, so have lunch on the train try to get some sleep, if possible. It will be a long day.
Also, I wouldn't go to bed much before midnight. Walk around and enjoy the evening.
Robert, for our first day, I am thinking a Santa Cruz walk and a quick view of the Catedral and La Giralda would be a good first day intro. Then we shall have tapas, wak a bit more, and back to apt. by 10 ish.
How do the rest of our days look?
The Concepcion Delgado tours were recommened by Maribel and Rick Steves and got great reviews on Trip Advisor.
I think you'll be surprised at how compact the old center is in Sevilla - you won't need public transportation.
Basically, if I understand, your first day is just arriving, unpacking and strolling. I think you'll be good with this plan.
On Sunday I'd also consider the Plaza de Toros and the Casa de la Pilatos. You could really just play it by ear. My don't misses would be the Cathedral and Alcazar which you should see on your tour. I'd also try to see the Iglesia del Salvador - it was closed for several years of renovations and is quite lovely.
The beauty of Sevilla I think is that all of these sights are relatively close to each other so you can just stroll and play it by ear - just making sure if you have must-sees you've scheduled them around their opening times.
I'd feel very good about the check in at the Quiros apartment. The ladies that manage this apartment actually have an office I on the ground floor (I believe it's on the ground floor).
Cathy, Sat has the 2 tours. One is a walking tour and the other is a tour of the Alcazar. Can we also do our own tour of the Cathedral and Giralda on Sat? I wanted to walk throught Triana also-not sure if i can fit that in also.
Most sights open late (2:30) on Sunday. If Saturday is too busy to fit in the Cathedral and Girlda, can i see these, the Plaza de Espana and Parque Maria Louisa on Sunday and be ready for Casa de la Memoria by 6:45?
I am unsure how close everything is so thanks for this information.
Casa de Pilatos sounds amazing per Maribel so hope to work that in also. when you suggest the Plaza de Toros, are you suggesting we see a bullfight or just tour the stadium?
The Quiros apartment looks lovely with 2 private terraces so i hope to make good use of them!!
You should be able to visit the Cathedral and Giralda along with Plaza de Espana and Parque Maria Louisa on Sunday. But I'd try to do on Saturday so if you have time on Sunday then you could visit Casa de Pilatos and the Plaza de Toros which are open all day Sunday. I was suggesting a tour of the bullring not necesarily a bullfight - but there could very well be one on a Sunday in May. It would be a glimpse into the bullfight culture and you might find it interesting but it's not something I can do....don't want to get into a debate on this board

Just relax and don't overplan - you only have 2.5 days and the first day will be jetlagged. So you won't be able to do it all. Just pick what is most important to you and make sure you do these - but the beauty of Sevilla (IMHO)is sitting back, enjoying the atmosphere, strolling the streets and soaking it all in.
CathyM, thanks again for the information. One of the reasons we picked sevilla is because the atmosphere is almost more imprortant than the things to see!!
one of the restaurants where we plan to dine is in triana-what is the neighborhood like? have read such conflicting comments?
One of my favorite sites in Sevilla (a wonderful city, BTW) was the Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija. If you have any interest in Roman mosaics, you will be captivated. The Countess bought a bunch of mosiacs from various excavations, and places them in her home. She collected many other items, but as my love mosaics, that's what I remember the most.
plambers - do you mean Pura Tasca? It's not in the most atmospheric part of Triana but it's safe. I've taken a taxi to Pura Tasca in the past then walked back through the more atmospheric area (about 10 minute walk from Pura Tasca) for more tapas! You can't go wrong in this area.
Triana is for the most part local atmosphere and great tapas bars and restaurants. Riverside Calle Betis just across the bridges is perhaps the best and most scenic in town for some tapas and wine: http://www.sevilla5.com/activities/goingout/betis.html
Triana is traditionally a cradle of flamenco culture, and there are still several great flamenco/sevillanas clubs/bars in the area. I like El Rejoneo in Calle Betis, 33, no need to come before midnight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZT3ADgWsw
Also have a very soft spot for La Primera del Puente tapas bar in the same C/Betis. Just across the S. Telmo bridge (vis a vis landmark Torre del Oro and 5-10 mins walking from Arenal depending on which part you live in). http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/2007/08/la-primera-del-puente/
Casa Anselma - and Anselma herself - is also a flamenco/sevillanas institution in town and great fun into the night. A little further into Triana, in C/Pagés del Corro, 49. Popular with both tourists and locals: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187443-d2057719-Reviews-Casa_Anselma-Seville_Province_of_Seville_Andalucia.html
Anselma in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw1atBQq_u0
Thanks again all. CathyM, yes I hope to dine at Pura Tasca. Is the calle betis the atmospheric area you were alluding to? maybe a walk after dinner would be the answer to exploring the triana neighborhood or it is best seem during the day? any favorite streets we should visit?
The Jacaranda trees should be blooming in Seville at that time and they are gorgeous. There were many in full bloom in the Alcazar gardens when we were there in late May a few years ago.
Nini, since i have never been to SEvilla, descriptions like yours make me so excited to go!
P; Calle Betis along the river is all right, but it is lined with lots of special event/catering restaurants near the Puente San Telmo, and with small bars and nightspots for a young crowd on the non-river side further north. Not very interesting walking apart from the river views.
The most atmospheric area is the pedestrianized stretch leading from the Triana bridge (the bridge anchored by the market) along Calle San Jacinto. This is lively until late at night, and shops remain open late.
From there, walk to Pages del Chorro and continue north to the area of PuraTasca.
The restaurant is in a residential area in the midst of an apartment block. You will have to peer to find the street sign, Calle Numancia. The area looked totally safe to me. In that area at least, the sense of Triana being a raffish quarter is not to be found, or at least I did not find that.
sorry: I did not see Kimhe's comments about Calle Betis. Perhaps it become more interesting late at night, but we were never there much past 10:30pm. I did get a kick out of the silly names for some of the bars..things like Fuzzy Alligator (not that, but you get the idea). Those nightspots seem to be popular with young foreign tourists, or so I've read.
ekscrunchy-I also didn't get the allure of Calle Betis, at least for tapas. I've visiting twice during the afternoon and found it quite touristy and the food wasn't anything special. Maybe at night or during the summer it's different?The area in Triana I also found best for strolling and tapas was Calle San Jacinto and the surrounding streets.
We were in Seville last March for 5 nights. We tried to go into the Cathedral on Sunday, but just be warned, we got in line at about 2:15 and it already wrapped around the entire cathedral. We skipped going back in then, so don't know how long it actually took to get in, so may want to either get in line earlier or try going in later when the line has gone down.
We went to Triana during the day because I had heard such great things about the pottery stores. I really wasn't all that impressed, and if you are eating there for dinner, I think walking around afterwards will fulfill your desire to explore Triana.
We did the tour of the bullring and found it very interesting. They give 45 minute tours that start every half an hour. We really enjoyed it.
Here is a link to my blog with all the details plus pictures:
http://www.fromhometoroam.com/2012/09/seville-spain-2012/
Interesting about the pottery stores..I did not see ONE in Triana, where there used to be so many. I wonder if Asian ceramics have taken a bit bite out of the markett for the finer, hand-paintd Spanish wares(??)
There is at least one nice-looking large ceramic store in the area of Sierpes.
ekscruncy - we did see and go into a few pottery stores, but everybody had the same stuff and not anything different than any place else in Seville.
I personally very much enjoy the neighborhood feel of Triana. They also have a great market just next to the bridge with some good tapas bars inside. Nearby is the Museo del Castillo de San Jorge with excellent information on the Spanish Inquisition in Sevilla - and it's free.
HI all. Have been reading another post with a traveler in Sevilla in late May and I keep reading about the heat and the appreciation of siesta time! Wwon't arrive at our apt until 2 in the afternoon on a Fri, and it is our arrival day from the US, so will will be quite tired. Hoped to shower and walk through Santa Cruz and a quick view of the Catedral and La Giralda would be a good first day intro. Then we shall have tapas, wak a bit more, and off to bed by 10.
First full day - Concepcion walking tour of Sevilla at 10:30 - 12 ish and Concepcion tour of Alcazar from 12:30-2 ish. http://www.sevillawalkingtours.com/.
Sunday-since the Cathedral and Giralda don't open til 2:30, I was looking at the Art Market for Sunday am, along with the Parque Maria Luisa and Plaza Espana and an afteroon visit to the Cathedral/Girald and Iglesia Salvador. Is this too much during the day? Also plan on Casa de la Memoria for the 7:30 show. Mertapol Parasol, Casa de la Pilatos maybe.
We depart on Monday. Now I so wish we had more time in Sevilla.
I just quickly skimmed through this thread so I hope I don't repeat any advice. I was in Sevilla last September and loved it. Maybe my report would be useful to you
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/my-experiences-in-sevilla-cordoba-granada-madrid-segovia-toledo.cfm
You can take a train from the airport to the Atocha station. This is what we did and it was easy. We also arrived early in the morning and took the train to Sevilla.
We took the walking tour and loved it. I'm sure you will too.
How much you can fit in your days is up to what your travel style is. My son and I have no problem fitting a lot in our days as we love to walk and do a lot. It was very hot so we did take short siestas. If you are like us you should have no problem with your itinerary.
Have a great time!
Jerseysusan, it was your post that I read initially so thanks! We arrive at 7 am in Madrid and i just booked the 11 am AVE so we arrive in Sevilla around 2. I am laughing because I am sure we will arrive at Atocha at 9 and have to wait and wait for the train. You paid more but got to Sevilla much earlier!
We arrive in T1 so figured we'd take the Express Bus rather than transfer to T4. Is it complicated?
We were going to do both tours with Concepcion-walking tour in the am and alcazar in the pm. She does not offer a Cathedral tour on Sat. I am now rethinking that we can see Cathedral on Sat after lunch and visit the Alcazar on our own on Sunday since it opens at 9:30. Did you feel that you appreciated them on your own rather than with a tour? Thanks
Express bus from T1 to Atocha is super easy. Just clear customs and walk outside. The bus is across the street from the taxi pick up with a well marked sign. Pay 5 euro and stay on the bus until the end when you're at Atocha. You should be good with the 11 a.m. train - probably will end up having time for a coffee. Atocha station has a great indoor garden area too. I'd just head upstairs to the departure area about 30 minutes before the train leaves as you have to put your luggage on a security belt for x-ray (sometimes a very short line). Then as soon as the screen shows the platform number for your train a line will immediately form for boarding.
http://www.emtmadrid.es/lineaaeropuerto/index.html
I'm glad you found my report useful. I always feel so grateful for all the info I find when researching trips that I like to pass on what I experienced.
I don't know anything about the Express Bus but I see that CathyM is giving you all the facts.
I decided not to book the Alcazar tour because I wanted time for a nice lunch. Sevilla has great restaurants and I was anxious to fit in as many as I could. We used the audio guide in the Alcazar and found it to be very informative. Also there is so much to take in visually that pausing whenever we wanted was great. There is one magnificent room after another with so much incredible detail.
We were also fine visiting the Cathedral on our own. I don't remember if they had audio guides.
Hope this helps.
Susan
Cathy and Jersey Susan, thanks. I was wondering if train (Cercania) was complicated as it would be free since we already have RENFE tix. We land in T1. I think we will do Alcazar and Cathedral on our own as suggested as I too want to eat as many good meals as I can there!