Interesting start!! Looking forward to hearing about it!

Great news DMB, I love the place.

It is one of those places that defines who I am. Simply loved it.

Where are you staying?
What is the weather like?
Have you any trips booked?
Have you run out of cash yet?
Have you walked the bridge yet?

I really wanted to dog sled but our son was 4 at the time and the weather was too cold to be safe.

DMBtraveler, interesting - you may even see Santa Claus. Waiting to hear more...

First Night

After settling in, Samuel one of the owners of Home Sleep gives me a ride into town. He is headed to the marina to meet his brother-in-law a fishing boat captain who has a fresh halibut waiting for him.

For me, the weather is surprisingly warm although it is still cold with a temperature of about 36 degrees. Samuel explains that it is actually warmer up here because of the circulation of tropical winds from the Caribbean. An odd connection that I would have never thought about. It is actually warmer here than in Minneapolis, Minnesota!

A stroll around town and the streets although showing signs of holiday decorations are quiet for a Tuesday night. A stop at the Radisson Blu to book a tour for tomorrow and I am disappointed that the booking machine does not work. A local restaurant for a dinner recommendation is also a bit of a failure as the desk clerk informs me that most of the restaurants in the city centre do not serve traditional Norwegian cuisine.

A stop at a local convenience store and it's a slice of pizza for K$20 that turns out to be pretty good. Meeting a local student here that is having what seems to me to be an oversized hot dog wrapped in bacon and I get the local dining information that I am looking for. He recommends a local Norwegian Tapas style restaurant that is popular with him and his other college friends. I am already three bites into my pizza and decide it's my dinner plan for tomorrow.

More walking around the town and along the waterfront I stare across the harbor at the lighted Arctic Cathedral with the highlighted snow capped mountains in the background. A stop at a local pub to end the night and at about US$11 a beer I am going to have to curtail my drinking or owe Capital One a lot of money by the time I get back home.

Prices at a local supermarket are a little better as I secure some items for breakfast or maybe a midnight snack. As I discovered on my ride into town it's an uphill climb back to Home Sleep. I could still catch a bus back for K$40 but the weather is still nice enough for a walk.

Although I forgot to drop some bread crumbs on the way into town with the help of a local I manage to find my way back home around midnight. The skies are still cloudy and I spend the next hour or so making plans online for tomorrow.

I arrange a Northern Light Chase excursion for tomorrow evening K$720 but will have to wait until Thursday morning for my dog sledding adventure as there has been so little snow so far that it is putting a cramp on the dog sledding activities.

As I retire for bed another look from the balcony and although the skies are starting to clear all I see is one lonely star, no Northern Lights.

Dickie-Gr

Staying at "Home Sleep", Great deal K$495 per night, Great owners!

Weather awesome for winter although I think a bit more snow would be nice. Temp about 36F.

Northern Lights and Dog Sledding (still waiting for confirmation, poor snow conditions)

Time to hit the ATM

Walking the bridge today!

bmking.

DMB let's have an update!

Have you seen them?

A Dark Day Afternoon

I wake up the second day in Tromso a little bit confused. With no alarm clock set from the previous evening, peering out my window with sleepy eyes I am not sure what time it is as I am looking at gray overcast twilight skies. A blink or two and I discover it is about 11 in the morning.

About two hours later night is falling as I begin a walk into the city center from the quiet neighborhood in which I am staying. However, there is still enough light to appreciate the beautiful winter landscape that I was not able to see so well yesterday during a true evening walk.

Pass “The World's Most Northern Brewery”, I am again walking through the main street of Tromso. The holiday decorations and the sounds of a street musician gives the atmosphere a special feeling. The spirit of Christmas is truly in the air.

On the other side of the city center I make my way towards a bridge that will take me to the one of a kind “Arctic Cathedral”. Crossing the bridge the wind has picked up and with the chill it brings, I am doing all I can to keep my extremities warm. My fast walking and finger curling comes to a stop as some of the views from the bridge have to be enjoyed standing still.

Unfortunately at this time of the day the cathedral is not open to the general public and can only be admired from the outside.

As more darkness has taken over the afternoon the temperature has fallen considerably and it is almost a brutal walk back into the city center. There are buses that run to and from the “Arctic Cathedral” but I did not want to chance my life fate standing still in the cold waiting for one.

Back in the city center, I do what quite a few of the locals seem to be doing during this time of the year, I head for an indoor shopping mall. However, my motives are different. I just want to escape the cold and warm up as I wait to go to dinner and then a Northern Light excursion.


Video:http://youtu.be/wfwjM9w0rSQ

DG,

No lights, cloudy at night every time out

Will share more about the experience later.

Presis

On a dinner recommendation of a college student, I make my way to Storgata 36. Navigating up a set of stairs I find myself at the entrance of Presis, a tapas restaurant and bar. With dark wood furniture and soft lighting from table candles and cool chandeliers, the atmosphere of Presis is warm and welcoming.

I arrive shortly after the restaurant has opened and I am only the second table to be seated. A refreshing ice cold glass of water is served and a pitcher of it is left behind which I appreciate. Although this is a restaurant best enjoyed as a group I am going to make the best of my dining experience by sort of eating like one.

Cured Reindeer, Grilled Artichoke Hearts, Fish Cakes and Salted Potatoes are ordered. As I wait for my main courses to be prepared a basket of warm toasted focaccia bread with an olive spread is served.

My first taste of a slice covered with the olive spread and I am ready to cancel my main courses. I am prepared to just double or triple down on the focaccia. If this is truly what is representative of the kitchen then my taste buds are in for a real treat.

Although there is only one waiter he is definitely efficient. He attends to new patrons and has the right timing to not neglect those of us that are already seated. I am impressed.

My main courses arrive and I have a bit of a dilemma, which one gets to grace my taste buds first. If the way to a man's heart is through his stomach then a heart to the stomach should have the honors. Grilled to perfection, I swirl pieces of the artichoke in the light olive oil in which it is served and savor. Delicious!

Next it's the Fish Cakes which I first drizzle with fresh lime juice. Although deep fried it is almost unnoticeable because of the light coating. Sampled with some of the Raw Salad (sliced carrots, apples and onions) on which it is served, my taste buds are delighted.

A fork through the Salted Potatoes is almost like putting a hot knife through butter. These are done perfect with just right amount of saltiness.

I save the Cured Reindeer for last. As a not too big a fan of sour cream except in cakes, it is the only dish that I would order slightly different next time. Served sliced and topped with sour cream and onions, I thought the sour cream overpowered the cured taste of the meat.

Dinner is finished of with a large cup of passion tea as I watch the restaurant fill up with more patrons that I am sure will also have an awesome dining experience.

well done, DMBT, you seem to have found a corker of a restaurant.

dare I ask what the feast cost?

Annhig

KR$320.00 including tip

I am really enjoying your report. I hope to visit the
area...in daylight, as a solo traveler. Would you recommend your "Home Stay"? How would one get in touch with them?
Happy New Year Johanna

johanna,

Would definitely recommend "Home Sleep"

I know they have at least one other location but I would recommend the one I stayed at, quiet neighborhood, bus stop right out front or easy walk into town.

I reserved online (booking.com) but I am sure Sam would not mind a direct booking. Here's his info:

Home Sleep
Nansenveien 32A
Tel: 47 970-77-942 or email: post@homesleep.no

Happy 2013 and many travels to you!

Disappointing Northern Lights Tour

After finishing an enjoyable dinner at Presis, I take a leisurely walk to the Rica Ishavshotel the pick up location for an evening tour of the Northern Lights. I have mixed expectations of seeing the lights as the other guests at Home Sleep after being out the previous two nights with different companies did not have any spectacular sightings.

Although the skies have been clear during the day (twilight), recently they have become cloudy at night due to the unusually warm weather this time of the year for Tromso. As this is an outing that depends on the ever changing ways of Mother Nature, most if not all of the tour companies offer “to chase for the lights” with some even suggesting you bring your passport in case the chase takes you into Finland.

At about 7pm I am picked up along with others from the lobby of the Rica to join Tromso Friluftsenter Northern Lights Chase With Lavvu Visit. We are driven in a mini-van about thirty minutes outside of Tromso to meet our guide for the evening.

At first it is a bit exciting as we are led into a replica Lavvu with a warm welcoming fire. We are told a little about the Sami people and culture along with some interesting things about reindeer. The ones here that pull sleighs are neutered to prevent problems with the females while working. Poor Rudolph.

Next we take a short walk to a beach area to attempt to listen for whales in the bay. I can already sense this is not going to be a good night for seeing the Northern Lights when our guide has us out listening for whales. To his credit it is a nice distraction from the cloudy skies which show no signs of clearing anytime soon.

Back in then Lavvu we are offered more hot beverages and pieces of chocolate cake from a Tupperware container. Our guide seems less than optimistic that we will see any lights here and offers for us to be taken to another location although he does mention having to pick someone up at the airport by midnight.

In signing up for the tour I knew it was advertised for four hours but when our guide has a prearranged outing then I know there is not going to be much of “a chase of the lights”. He does offer to have his girlfriend run around with a flashlight if we don't see any official Northern Lights which I think would be quite amusing.

We leave our location and join up with the guide at a gas station where he has left his car then head up to a mountain area. Here the clouds seem even thicker as we move around along a mountain road trying to keep warm. Eventually I give up and return to the less cold warmth of the mini-van.

With everyone back on board the best part of the evening comes when I am offered a warm drink by one of the passengers and told not to ask any questions just drink it. Now there's someone that came prepared to have a good time no matter what.

At 720NOK about US$130, I am more disappointed in the wayTromso Friluftsenter ran the tour than I was in not actually seeing the Northern Lights. I think a little more head work would have given us a better chance of see the lights. Going from one cloudy location to another in my book is hardly considered chasing. I would have preferred to see the guide's girlfriend running around with a flashlight.

Going from one cloudy location to another in my book is hardly considered chasing. I would have preferred to see the guide's girlfriend running around with a flashlight.>>

nice image, DBMT. you have encapsulated the problem with all nature watching, which is of course that nature won't necessarily co-operate.

annhig,

I will be back to challenge nature again in Tromso. Hopefully she will let me win, next time

A Drive In The Country

For my last day in Tromso I have arranged a rental car with Avis at their downtown location for about US$136 per day with unlimited mileage. This is about US$20 per day cheaper than picking it up at the airport and I will be able to return it to the airport before I catch my early morning flight.

Although the evening before I had been through the tunnel system in a tour bus, it is a very cool experience driving it myself as I am headed to the coastal town of Sommeray. Roundabouts are a big part of the road system here and navigating them is always fun. Miss an exit and you can just go round and round and round about until you get it right.

To make my way to Sommeray I head towards the airport then cross a main bridge that connects the islands. A stop at a local supermarket and I have my provisions for the day, I think. The breads and pastries from the bakery area are always fresh in places like this.

The grilled pork chops look delicious but the pancake looking type of fish cake is questionably. However, one without cheese is still worth a try. From my previous trips to the supermarket in Tromso, I have a minor addiction to a “Noisy” drink so I stock up on a few of them too.

It is not long before I am driving along tranquil bays with snow covered hills in the background then the landscape changes to a more mountainous countryside. I pass many cars parked along the mountainous road their occupants presumably off exploring the snow blanketed countryside.

It seems I am getting closer to the coastline as the scenery becomes filled with more and more waterways. These waterways are so calm they seem like huge lakes although I am sure their tranquility comes from the protection of the surrounding mountains and hills.

In some of these waters are boats so petite and cute that they appear unreal. I stop to watch a few of them half expecting to see a mermaid swim by.

It is nearing 2pm and the sun is beginning to set on this part of the planet. For an outsider this is still an unnatural sensation that in a weird way is kind of cool.

Watching the sun do it's magical artwork on the landscape this far north is amazing. Parked near a bridge I watch as a warm orange glow spreads across the northern skies highlighted by shades of violet. It is the most spectacular sunset that I have ever seen.

I begin my drive back to Tromso in twilight which by 4pm has almost turned to completed darkness. My last night in Tromso I spend in search of the Northern Lights on my own but face the same cloudy skies from the nights before. I have been told that some people have made the trip here multiple times and have never seen the Northern Lights. I will definitely be one that will return to Tromso in search of them although I hope it will not take me multiple times to experience this awesome artwork of nature.

Interestingly, at home while looking at one of my pictures of the Arctic Cathedral I discover that my camera may have captured a portion of the Northern Lights. I have been told a camera is more sensitive to capturing them although for me the real experience is to see them with the naked eye.

Video:http://youtu.be/bz57DNpV4Rg

lovely pics, DBM.

you do get around - saigon, Norway...where next?

annhig,

I am on a mission to see all 195 plus 1 one officially recognized countries a "Bucket List" of sort. So, yes I do get around but in a good way

All these trips have been done since last summer but I am running behind posting about them.

Next Asia with a trip to Tibet!

how many to go?

annhig,

134

ooh, that's a lot, DMB.

funny question on the radio yesterday which you mention of there being 195 countries reminded me of.

the question was - how many countries, in their modern day guises, has Great Britain NOT invaded?

[clue - it's less than your 134, DMB]

Very nice!

annhig,

You have got me... I can think of a few GB invaded but hard to think of the ones "Not Invaded".

Would Cuba be one of them?

Would Cuba be one of them?>>

possibly - the answer [which did not include that names of these favoured nations] was 22 out of 196. We assumed that most of those were in South America.