Where to begin...? In a nutshell, I'd simplify the trip considerably.

I don't see flying into and out of Lyon as logical for this trip. Heading down to Albi and then to the Dordogne and then back to Toulouse, then over to Cathar country and back to Provence, then up to Lyon again seems like wasteful circling around.

I'd fly into Paris and grab a train right to Brive. You're giving very short shrift to the Dordogne, especially with boys 13 and 15. They could easily be amused and kept active there nonstop for two weeks or more. I can't see going to Cathar country for swimming when you can swim all over the place in the Dordogne, in the river and lakes. And if you do stay only 5 days there, or even a week, no, don't bother with Hautefort or Périgueux (both perfectly fine places but I can't imagine boys of that age getting much out of either when there are so many more appealing venues).

After the Dordogne, you can head to Albi (yes, it's FAR more worthy of a visit than St-Cirq-Lapopie, which is really just a schlocky tourist venue in a dramatic geographical setting - Pech-Merle, though, is certainly worth a visit if you're not caved out after the Dordogne) and Toulouse and Carcassonne, then continue to Provence and extend your stay there and fly out of Marseilles, or Nice if you care to go to the Med. Uzès is a lovely town, but again...only 4 days minus the driving time to get there? There's so much to see in that neck of the woods...St-Rémy, Les Baux, Arles, the Camargue, Pont du Gard, Avignon...

I don't know the Abbaye St-Martin, but there are abbeys all over the place, including a beautiful one in Cadouin in the Dordogne. And of course Sénanque in Provence.

From what you've listed here, I don't get the impression that you're focusing much on what boys of that age will enjoy doing. They will love the Dordogne (canoeing, kayaking, rock climbing, cave explorations, spear-throwing exhibits, trébuchet exhibits, warfare museums in fortified castles, horseback riding, swimming....). They would love the Camargue (wild horses, flamingos, cowboys, salt fields, swimming...) and Les Baux and the Pont du Gard (you can swim there too). I'd get them immersed in research about these places so that you don't just end up driving them around to this place and that that appeals to you.

Good luck with the planning.

Don't bother with Toulouse unless you have a specific reason to stay there. Smaller towns are preferable for overnight stays. You might want to organize your itinerary as we did, going from plus beau village to the next, although I think that St. Cirq-la-Popie is not worth the stop once you have seen Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Collonges-la-Rouge (on the way to Albi), and any other village that strikes your fancy. Michelin does have a map of France where all these villages are indicated. If the children like train rides, the one going from Prades to La Tour de Carol might be interesting (one of the adults taking the car up to avoid a round trip).

An alternative to going to the Pyrénées orientales would be to stay on the southern edge of the Massif Central, going up the Gorges du Tarn. I think that Le Puy-en-Velais is worth a detour. You might want to read my trip report from last summer which includes a trip from the Dordogne to Nice; click on my name to find it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/sets/72157623313123155/show/with/4358891282/

I question the idea of swimming in mountain streams. They tend to be fast flowing, rocky and shallow, not to speak of being very cold.

It`s so nice when other people know your family better than you do, isn`t itÉ

walker - i can only speak from my own experience of travelling with our two kids which is generally that they [and therefore we] had a better time when we stayed put as much as possible.

so we might follow a day pursuing some activity with an excursion somewhere, and I agree with St. Cirq that if you were to adopt that approach, you could easily fill whole week in the Dordogne alone.

of course you do know your kids best, but my experience of my son is that at age 13/15, he was more interested in doing rather than seeing, and that what I think is impressive he might not - and one abbey, however impressive, might well suffice!

I forgot the dates: July 18 to Aug 5. Prime time.

<it`s so nice when other people know your family better than you do, isn`t it>

Actually, I am appreciative of all the opinions here. There are some excellent points, and of course it's up to me to decide if that would work best for us.

StCirc, thanks. I wasn't clear. I've already booked tickets to Lyon, so that is where we're starting and ending from. Also, it would take the proverbial wild horses to dissuade me from the two pillars of this itinerary - Dordogne and Provence. The question I'm trying to answer is do I reallocate time from those destinations to the places we'll pass by on the way between them.

< Uzès is a lovely town, but again...only 4 days minus the driving time to get there? There's so much to see in that neck of the woods...>

Hopefully that is the kind of thing you folks with experience can help me with. There’s plenty to see everywhere, but it is not important to me to see any one area “in depth.” I would though like to hear about better alternatives that we may see somewhere else on our route (ala St Martin Abbey).

Thanks for the advice about skipping Périgueux.

< From what you've listed here, I don't get the impression that you're focusing much on what boys of that age will enjoy doing.>

Well who’s paying for this trip?

< I'd get them immersed in research about these places >

Excellent idea. They are already Greek and Roman history freaks, which is why Provence will give the Dordogne a run for its money.

Michael, I am leaning towards dropping Toulouse as well, thanks.

< I question the idea of swimming in mountain streams. They tend to be fast flowing, rocky and shallow, not to speak of being very cold.>

I had seen some pictures of attractive looking “swimming holes” like Duilhac Cascades near Peyrepertuse. I’ve seen pictures of some better looking spots, but didn’t bookmark the pages.

< i can only speak from my own experience of travelling with our two kids which is generally that they [and therefore we] had a better time when we stayed put as much as possible.>

5 nights in one place is a long time for us, but I agree on doing over seeing, I think St Martin Abbey for example would fit the bill for “doing,” especially if we can combine it with a longer approach hike. As I mentioned, and cute town stops will be for meals, not sipping wine in the square. My first itinerary idea was a serious hiking and mountain bike trip to the Italian Dolomites and Lakes region, but the equipment issues more than I cared to worry about. So “doing” is foremost in my mind.

would be interested in hearing what you decided to do and where you decided to stay. We are planing 7 days travelling by car from Paris to Barcelona. then another 7 days travelling from Barcelona to someone in the lake como area. Any advice would be great

Walker -

Since you mention your kids are Roman history freaks, curious why you have chosen Uzès as your Provencal base as opposed to Arles ?

- Kevin

Good point Kevin. I haven't gotten that far yet, so I don't really know the place(s) we'll stay in Provence. Will look into Arles as a base. Thanks.

You're welcome. And aside from the Roman aspect, from Arles, it's an easy day trip to the Camargue and a swim at the beach (fantastic one at Saintes-Maries). I'm betting that after all the sightseeing you'll have done to that point, a few hours relaxing on the beach will be a hit with teenagers and parents alike....

- Kevin

Yes, I will have to schedule in some relaxing activities.

I'm about to put down a deposit on a gite in Sarlat, a house just outside of town with a garage but just a 3 minute walk to the center of town. That would mean 7 nights in Sarlat, which I doubt anyone will tell me is too long.

When I confirm this, The first half of the trip will be:

Thursday: Arrive Lyon, drive to Le Puy for overnight.
Friday: Drive to overnight in Rocamadour.
Saturday: 7 nights Sarlat gite.

walker - i like the idea of the gite in Sarlat - and as you predict, i don't think that a week will be too long. we spent a week in a gite nearby, and we ran out of time, not things to do.

does the gite have a pool? I think that would be essential in July/Aug, especially as it's unlikely to have A/C.

Where is it "outside of town" that's just a 3-minute walk into the center? I know Sarlat like the back of my hand, and that's hard to imagine.

Oh, and don't overnight right IN Rocamadour (it has little appeal in that regard). Stay here: www.domainedelarhue.com

Outside of the old town, I should have said:

http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/france/FR16221.htm

Google maps says 5 minutes, the landlord says 3.

No pool, and the A/C issue is concerning. Not so much during the day, but at night. Isn't it usual for the temp to drop down at night?

St Circ, I saw that place you recommend and liked it and I liked the hour walk to Rocamadour from there. Do you think there is no advantage to staying in town and "closing and opening up shop" early and late? I must confess I am only assuming we can wander around the good bits during the early or late hours.

Thanks for the advice about skipping Périgueux.

If staying in a self-catering gite and doing some of your own cooking, the Wednesday market in Périgueux is superior to Sarlat's Saturday market, especially if you like fish--checkout the fish monger in front of the cathedral. One could spend a day in Périgueux between the market, the old town and la Vésunna.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/sets/72157623221148969/show/

somehow i just lost my [too] long reply to you, but have you looked here?

http://en.gites-de-france.com/

or for something slightly more up-market, here:

http://www.french-country-cottages.co.uk/

July/Aug can be very hot - 2-3 years ago we rented a gite in the southern loire [further north than the Dordogne] in July, and at night it was well over 30C. you are unlikely to find A/C but with lads of that age, i would want access to a pool.

<<Isn't it usual for the temp to drop down at night?>>

What time of year are you going? It can be hot as blazes in July and August and not much relief at all at night. That said, I don't have AC in my house and I've managed just fine for 20 years with fans. I don't think you'll suffer. That's an interesting rental property - looks quite modern and commodious, but I do think you might want to look for a place with a pool, assuming this is a high-season rental. There are municipal pools, of course - Le Bugue has a nice one that costs 2 euros - but it's really nice to have an evening swim on those hot summer nights.

<<Do you think there is no advantage to staying in town and "closing and opening up shop" early and late?>>

No advantage at all IMO. Apart from the pilgrimage aspect and the fairly interesting geography, it's a kitschy, unappealing place full of T-shirt and junk souvenir shops. I'd rather stay in just about any nearby town than actually in Rocamadour itself. The Domaine de la Rhue is a gorgeous property with lovely hosts.

I agree with Michael about the Périgueux market and old town.

St. Cirq - the dates are July 18 -august 5 - according to the OP up-thread.

as you say, it could be hot as blazes.

I like your 1st part of the trip:

<< Thursday: Arrive Lyon, drive to Le Puy for overnight.
Friday: Drive to overnight in Rocamadour.
Saturday: 7 nights Sarlat gite.>>

I also recommend Domaine de la Rhue
http://www.domainedelarhue.com/gb/accueil.htm
We stayed there last year. On Saturday morning you can visit Padirac when it opens before the crowds arrive. Take the route thru Carennac, Autoire and Loubressac on your way to Sarlat.

We rented a gite near Sarlat with a pool. The boys loved it.

I have no attachment to an overnight near Rocamadour, with 7 nights in Sarlat, we can certainly make it into a daytrip, or hit it on our way to Sarlat.

Any other suggestions for an overnight between our nights in Le Puy and Sarlat? Anywhere between Figeac and Carennac seems to make sense, according to Google maps. Somewhere with an interesting place to walk around after dinner and an outstanding casual restaurant is all we would need.

Re: hot July. We're from Florida, so daytime temps will be fine for us, but at night I do like the A/C at 75F or I get grumpy. We'll be fine with fans, I hope.

Advice taken - I decided not to reserve the Sarlat property and have now reserved a gite near Domme with a pool.

I've placed a deposit for 5 nights at La Prince Noir in Les Baux de Provence. I know (some) drawbacks to this location include the parking, lack of night life, and in-out logistics, but it may be that the location will be worth it.(?) I haven't started planning the Provence portion yet, but anticipate we will hit the usual spots over our 5 days.

We will have 4 nights moving from Dordogne to Provence. In the archives StCirc laid out an excellent looking itinerary via Albi through the Tarn Gorges to Castries, but I think there is some parental responsibility on my part to see Carcassonne, which would make this impossible. St-Guilhem-le-Desert looks very attractive to me too. 4 nights/4 towns is appealing for us, or 2 nights in say, the Albi area or som eother area, if that would be worthwhile on such a route.

From Domme to Provence with 4 nights:

Overnights in Figeac, Albi, Carcassonne (or area), and near Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert?

good idea to move to the Domme property, walker - care to post a link ?

Overnights in Figeac, Albi, Carcassonne (or area), and near Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert?

From Domme Albi is not that far that you need to stop there for an overnight, unless you really dawdle to visit places like Collonges-la-Rouge, Carennac, Cordes-sur-Ciel and Najac (three of which are plus beaux villages, plus maybe a stop in Cahors to see the bridge.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/sets/72157627132588561/show/

<From Domme Albi is not that far that you need to stop there for an overnight>

The idea is not to have four driving days but four touring days where dawdling/exploring is the goal. I'm open to absolutely anything during these four days, including substantial driving, if necessary. My first impulse is to mix a couple days of traditional sightseeing (Carcassonne), with a couple active days (hiking trails around St-Guilhem-le-Desert).

Love the photos Michael, I have seen some of your others but not these. Thanks.

<< I know (some) drawbacks to this location include the parking, lack of night life, and in-out logistics, but it may be that the location will be worth it.(?)>>

Those are all significant drawbacks in high season (I've waited 40+ minutes to get up the hill to Les Baux, and that was before having to find a parking spot. Not a good choice, IMO, especially with kids - after dark it's small and isolated. Your kids will go nuts after the excitement of the first view of the ramparts has faded.

You don't need an overnight on the way from Domme to Albi, as Michael says, unless you really pack in the sightseeing along the way (which you may want to do). I'd just stop for a nice lunch in Figec, a stroll around, and move on...but then again, I've seen all the places many times. Up to you.

I understand your impulse to see Carcassonne. I'm very fond of the place, though many are not. I wouldn't spend the night there, though. Move along and spend the night in Sète on or near the beach, or Montpellier (two totally different venues - one a fishing town, the other a vibrant university city.

I think St-Guilhem should wait for another trip when you concentrate on areas farther inland. It can easily be combined with lots of other interesting destination in that neck of the woods.

Les Baux, yes understood. Although if I do my job right my kids will pass out as soon as we walk in the door. However, they should be tired from exertion, not from sitting in a car.

Sète is now quite high on my list, thanks. It looks like exactly what my wife thinks of when she thinks of S. France. That could win me some points!

Yes, Sète is an interesting place, but don't get all gooey about it. It's actually not at all like most little Mediterranean portside towns. It's the last "real" fishing village in France on the Med, and has a distinctly gritty character in parts (something to do possibly with the surfeit of sailors?). The port is also expanding by leaps and bounds, and for all I know there may be huge maritime construction going on (kerouac did a photo essay on it here on Fodors last year, I believe). So don't go expecting some idyllic, quaint fishing village. It's vibrant and interesting and has great beaches, but do your homework before you just decide to land there.

All that said, my kids really enjoyed the place for a few days every summer for about a decade.

<but do your homework before you just decide to land there>

Sorry, you just reminded me of Peter Seller's pirate costume in one of the Pink Panther movies. He wasn't in Sète by any chance, was he.

The France I get gooey over has Audry Hepburn in it, so you don't have to worry about that!

LOL! Was that the Sea Swede movie with the parrot? Yeah, that could've been Sète, all right. It has a bit of that "aura" about it sometimes, when the fog's in.

Audrey sightings are usually about 50-100 kilometers east.

OK, after much reading, I’m creeping closer. Thinking about the second half of the trip now, as the gite in Domme is paid for (http://www.tairedugrel.com).

I cut back Provence to 4 nights at either Uzes or Arles. Will visit Pont du Gard, Avignon, Nimes, Arles, Baux, the usual.

To recap – we’re an active family with two boys 13 and 15, so small towns are great as long as we’re “doing” something in or near them (besides shopping). I would love to see them all, but in reality we will only go out of our way to towns we can: hike to or in, eat in, sleep in, see some exceptional sight in, etc. Shopping and museums are not important to us at all.

Here’s what I’ve got:

Arrive July 18 in Le Puy at around 5pm – collapse.

Day 1: (Friday) Le Puy am, easy hike near Puy Mary pm, overnight Salers.
Day 2: Slow drive to Domme, through Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne area, maybe lunch in Carennac.
Days 3-8 Domme (this part should work itself out).

Day 9-12 ??

Day 13: St Guilhem le Desert for a day of swimming and jumping off of Pont du Diable and exploring.

Days 14-18 Provence in Uzes or Arles for 4 nights (last day we fly out of Lyon at 7:30 pm)

So, the tricky part for me now is the trip from Domme to St Guilhem over 4 nights.

The options appear to be (route wise – not thinking yet about where to overnight):

1) Through Figeac, Conques, Estaing down to St Guilhem with the attendant small towns and activities along the way.

2) Though Cahors, Cordes-s-Ciel and Albi area, Brousse-le Chateau, possibly up to the Millau Viaduct then down to St Guilhem.

3) Same as 2, but from Albi through Castres to Carcassonne, Narbonne, then St Guilhem.

I’m leaning against #3, but not strongly. Albi had been a “must visit” but I’m wondering if #1 would compensate for missing it.

Any opinions are as always appreciated!

I would do Domme>Figeac>Rodez>Millau>St-Guilhem, with stops along the way.

Thanks StCirq, this part of trip may take me awhile, it’s harder to find info in English on great walks/hikes in the area. I've ordered a book on short hikes in Dordogne, but there is less info I can find on Aveyron.

Our first travel day, Saturday, from Domme we can visit the Cahors market early, then Peche Merle, then St-Cirq-Lapople (on a Saturday afternoon in July – dumb idea?). Then head to overnight in either Figeac or Najac. I've seen a few pictures and brief descriptions of a trail from St-Circ that follows the river and is cut into the cliff side which looks pretty cool, does anyone know if that’s a nice way to spend a couple of hours?

As I’m envisioning it, this could be a “perfect day” for us: morning town – blockbuster sight – lunch or picnic in a town with an activity – leisurely evening drive to next destination. We have plenty of spectacular outdoor places in the US that we've visited, so our outdoor adventures in France need to have a cultural aspect. Here’s the book I ordered for the Dordogne http://dordognehikes.com/.

Would Figeac be a little “low key” for the kids compared to Nijac?

I realize the options are endless for 6 nights between Dordogne and Provence, but working from both ends I've (almost) got it down to 4 nights between Najac(?) and St Guilhem! A couple of 2 or one 3 night stay would be a bonus, but not a requirement. I think we could stay 2 nights in St Guilhem easily.

blockbuster sight – lunch or picnic in a town with an activity

The view is nice enough, but no better than the view of the Dordogne from Domme or the top of Beynac. Picnic might be possible on the remains of the chateau, otherwise I did not notice any place where picnicking would be possible in the town itself.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/4800546098/in/set-72157623164797649

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/4528872157/in/set-72157623164797649

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/7734850330/in/set-72157627132588561

Najac offers good views too, and should have good hiking in the area:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/4931945601/in/set-72157627132588561/

Just trying to shorten a day that is too long.

Here's definitive info on hiking in France: http://www.gr-infos.com/

I think you'll be bored silly with two nights in St-Guilhem. The main attraction is the gorgeous, but utterly spare, abbey.

Don't know anything about that hiking trail from St-Cirq-Lapopie, but I don't even like that town at all, so I try to stay away from it. I do like Najac, and you can break up the time with a leisurely boat ride there.

You might want to veer off the main route and meander around Lamalou-les-Bains a bit; the town itself is fairly interesting, though much revolves around the casino, but the area is known for its microclimate - think palm trees and oleanders. St-Affrique could be another diversion, and the Grotte des Demoiselles.

Thanks Michael, You may be right about it being a busy day. Also a good point about cliff side village overload. This part is still in the early stages, but Albi still calls, I think we can’t miss Albi. Maybe two nights in Cordes at the top of the town in a B&B and full day exploring Albi in between our nights there.

St Guilhem is definitely somewhere for us to spend a full day, Swimming and bridge jumping at Pont Diable am and relaxing and exploring the town pm. There’s also Les Demoselles, which we could see either coming or going. The hikes around town look OK, so maybe they’re not worthwhile for us. Either way, we could stay overnight or not, depending on the rest of the trip.

Thanks StCirq for the hike info – not too much to review, is it!

Anyway, I’ve got a lot to work out, so I’ll be putting my nose to the grindstone.

I recommend Albi. It's St. Cirq that adds more time than you anticipate. If you can find a smaller town for shopping, it would be better than Cahors in terms of time, although I would stop by to see the bridge.

walker - I'd love to know if you chose Uzes or Arles and what hotel/gite while in Provence area. We're researching that area as well but for June....