I don't know when February breaks are, but I can't think of any time in February that is picnic and biking weather in Paris. Or necessarily even walking around outside all day weather. Which is not to say you can't have a great time, but I think you need to investigate some indoor activities beyond museums and churches that will thrill your family.

The great thing about Paris is that it is full-fledged modern city with no end of venues specifically designed to hold the attention of a 14 year old. It gets easier to help you find them if we know more specifically what you are interested in. If you are very keen that your son have a great time in Paris, please include information about what he truly likes to do with his free time and what presently his quirky interests are. Paris probably has just the ticket, and of course it's also possible that he would be fascinated by the catacombs, or a sewer tour, or a tour of the opera, an historic bookstore or hospital, or the cinema museum or the fashion houses or taking a pastry making class. You get the picture.

Thank you, golden. Our son's winter break is Feb.18-22. Yes, I know it can be very cold. Was reading the Blue Bikes reviews on Tripadvisor and thought it might be fun (only if the temps are above 40 F!). When I say picnic, I just meant we are happy to buy bread, cheese and fruit and sit on a bench (of course if it's not too cold.) We aren't looking for high end dining. We were in Munich last Christmas and London the Christmas before so the cold doesn't worry us. Ha Ha! We'll be sure to pack appropriately.

Our son is a pretty average kiddo. He plays sports, he enjoys reading, he plays music. He absolutely loves to travel. I really like your suggestion of the catacombs or the sewer. He would totally be into that! I think he and my husband would also enjoy Les Invalides. The other suggestions not so much. I like the pastry making class idea. Would love suggestions for one that would be appropriate for all three of us that is reasonably priced.

I think he would like the catacombs....take a few little penlights with you. If the weather allows climb the towers at Notre Dame. He will enjoy the gargoyles and the view!

If he plays music it is really tempting to suggest a concert, of which there are so many in Paris at that time of year, of all types of music, so whatever music he is into, then you should be able to find something. You can look ahead using Time Out for Paris

http://www.timeout.fr/paris/en

Ecoles Lenotre offers classes for young people in English, but I think their pastry making class may only be for children under 12. For teens, they cook a full course meal. Some place you could check out is Cook 'n' Class, but I've some times gotten the impression their courses are popular because they serve a lot of wine (but maybe not at the pastry class!) But unless all of you are already motivated kitchen experimenters, it might not be the best way to spend 4 hours in Paris when you only have 4 days there.

You might enjoy ice skating in central Paris:

http://uk.eurostar.com/uk/travel-to-france/travel-to-ile-de-france/travel-to-paris/discover/open-air-ice-rink-at-the-hotel-de-ville-leisure-ide-86318299

You could have sunny skies and warmish temps -- I didn't mean to make it sound like you were doomed to be indoors all day. I was just worried that everything you mentioned in your first post was really dependent on dry weather.

By the way, has your son seen Hugo (the film by Martin Scorcese?) If so, making Musee d'Orsay your one art museum visit might be the one most interesting to him. If he hasn't seen Hugo, I highly recommend it.

Here's a hotel I love. It meets all your criteria - lots of shops, near a market street (rue Mouffetard), just across the street from Hemingway's first apartment in Paris. Although it will be too cold to sit outside, there is a lovely garden. In the nice weather people take breakfast outside or bring back food for a picnic lunch or dinner.

Try to get a room in the building across from reception as the rooms are larger.

For a late night wine or hot chocolate, there's a square with cafes very close.

http://www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com/

You could take a chocolate tour or any number of other walking tours.

http://www.paris-walks.com/

There's a Sunday afternoon skate (weather permitting). There's also a Friday night skate but it's more adventurous.

If you go to the Invalides then take a short walk to the Rodin Museum. You can buy a ticket to the garden only (about E1 or E2) and see a sample of his famous works such as The Thinker or the Burghers of Calais. There's a lovely garden and cafe behind the museum. It won't take much time to see some sculpture in the garden and your son will get some exposure to a museum.

Also see Ste-Chapelle (near Notre Dame). It's an exquisite chapel (actually 2 chapels - lower and upper) with amazing stained glass windows. This is one sight I highly recommend. There is a security line to get in but don't be put off by the line as most people are not going to the chapel.

The reason there is a security line to get to the Sainte Chapelle is because the main building complex is the central Paris courthouse.

If he has a February vacation, he must live in New England. Other areas of the country don't ordinarily have February vacations.

Therefore, all this talk about how cold Paris would be at the end of February may well be moot. It is more likely to be and to feel milder than New England at the same time. London can be positively spring-like then, Paris likely to be less so but better than Boston.

While I would love to take a cooking class, my husband and son kind of shrugged and said, "that might be nice." With such limited time I think I will have to tuck that away for next time. The skating sounds lovely. That's a favorite activity of ours (by ours I mean our family not me!) when we travel.

Adrienne, the hotel looks PERFECT! Just what I had in mind. Just out of curiosity, this is where my husband's company puts their employees when they layover in Paris. http://www.novotel.com/gb/hotel-3546-novotel-paris-tour-eiffel/index.shtml I imagine he get's a big discount with them. But unless, someone says that's a super place, stay there, I'm leaning toward's Adrienne's suggestion.

My husband mentioned Versailles, but not sure we want to mess with all the lines and people.

Golden, I didn't understand the connection between Hugo and Musee d'Orsay. I didn't realize it used to be a train stain. Yes, we've seen the movie and loved it. I think for that reason alone, I would choose D'Orsay over the Louvre, so as not to overwhelm the teen! I think the Rodin sounds perfect. That was my favorite when I was a student. Ste-Chapelle looks lovely.

Ackislander, actually we live in the Atlanta area. Not that cold, but we have traveled when it's been frigid and have the correct clothes. I guess I need to be prepared for very cold with layers in case we shed our winter coats.

For our short time there, would one carnet be the way to go?

Better get more than 1 carnet for 3 people you;d use 3 of the 10 tickets just getting there!And 3 to get back to your hotel. Boys might like Invalides Museum war museum

I've been to a business meeting at that Novotel, let's just say it was all right for a meeting and leave it at that.

My current favorite Paris hotel Le Clement has large-ish triples, you might check its availability, www.hotelclementparis.com Great location in the 6th. I've heard great things about the Grands Ecoles as well.

Teenager or not, the catacombs would not be on my list for such a short stay, if ever.

Batobus is a fun way to get to many of the major sights and be on the river. www.batobus.com Not sure what current fares are, I think an all-day ticket is 12€, runs about every 15 minutes.

My husband mentioned Versailles, but not sure we want to mess with all the lines and people.>>

not such a problem in February - we went last March and when we got there [at about 11am] there were no queues at all.

but you wouldn't have to decide til you got there, anyway.

things our kids liked in paris [they were about 14 and 11 when we went with them]:

the Eiffel Tower, l'Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, the Pyramide, the food...and that was just in one day. you really can't go wrong.

I did the Fat Tires (sorry such a weird way of spelling things) Segway tour in Feb a few years back and it was freezing, but dress correctly and it will be no problem. FT also do a bike tour.

Cath, am comparing Hotel Le Clement and Les Grands Ecoles. Thank you. And thank you for your input re: the Novotel. That's what I thought. Can you tell me why you said that about catacombs. Just curious. Is it because it's too creepy, not respectful, not worth the time or effort? I think the Batobus is a great idea as opposed to a cruise with a meal.

the Eiffel Tower, l'Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, the Pyramide, the food...and that was just in one day. you really can't go wrong.>> ann, all of that is what our son mentioned! Was thinking that Feb would be a better time regarding lines, but know it can be a possibility. Luckily we are very flexible.

bilbo, I did research Fat Tire tours and I think they are too big (20 people) where the Blue Bike takes much smaller groups (10 max) Plus the guides are recommended on BB.

GAJayHawks, lucky you going to Paris with DH and your 14 year old son. Have you seen the Woody Allen flick MIDNIGHT IN PARIS? Really entertaining.

It might be fun to watch it together and then try to identify several of the locations as you scoot around Paris. To name a few: Notre Dame, Church of Saint Etienne du Mont (where Gil’s adventure begins), flea markets along the Seine, Glass Pyramid at the Louvre, Rodin Museum, Place de la Concorde, Orangerie (Monet’s waterlilies),Versailles, Shakespeare & Co, and the magnificent Pont Alexandre III where the film ends. (They are all listed on line.)

Have a great time…

GA,

Your sentence starting, "Is it because...." pretty much sums it up!

Jayhawk? I'm from the other side of the border wars!

GA - the one place that I would book in advance is the Eiffel Tower. We didn't but that was 10 years ago [i know, i don't look old enough, thank you for saying so!]

here's the official website where you can buy tickets in advance:

http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/

[beware imitations!]

you will be just outside the period when they say they are not selling on-line tickets, which ends on Feb 15th.

you might also consider a museum pass for part of your time, if you want to visit the Louvre and/or the Musee D'Orsay, where the queues can be really bad, even in feb. the dates that you are travelling fall within the UK half-term holiday, so there might be quite a few british families around, looking to see exactly the same things as you!

you can get them for 2,4, and 6 days i think:

http://en.parismuseumpass.com/

and it covers Versailles!

February is the least crowded month to visit Paris. Many sites than can be a nightmare to visit in mid-summer are a snap in February. Yes, I admit, the weather may not be ideal at places like the Eiffel Tower.

I think you all might like to climb the steps up to the base of the towers of Notre Dame. Facing Notre Dame, the staircase is on the left hand side. My grandson and his friend stood in line for almost 45 minutes in November, 2011, to do that around noontime, so I would recommend getting there earlier in the day. They loved the experience as I had a couple of decades previously, coming face to face with the gargoyles.

We've stayed many times at the Hotel des Grandes Ecoles and like the location and management very much. It's rather old-fashioned in decor. Madame LeFlock, the owner, may have retired by now. A few years ago, in her early 80's, she was still managing it.

She will forever remain in my heart because, a couple of decades ago, we arrived in Paris with a reservation for a hotel a few blocks away which was a minor disaster. The next morning, I went in search of a replacement and found the Hotel des Grandes Ecoles. They had space available and I said I would take it. When we returned, I worried that I hadn't even left my name. She told me she not to worry because she remembered my face and came around from her desk and hugged me.

late, I loved Midnight in Paris. Have to watch again with hubby and son, they haven't seen it.

Cath, are you a tiger or a wildcat? The catacombs are closed until further notice, so that's a moot point!

Idyll, I'm glad to hear your review of the Hotel Grandes Ecoles. Was reading the reviews on tripadvisor. I like to read the good and the bad. The poor and terrible reviews were very descriptive and scare me a little.

February is the least crowded month to visit Paris.>> Good to hear, kerouac. The way we have to travel usually ensure us there are lighter crowds. Hubby is an airline employee so we travel standby. The best way to travel standby is going when and where most people choose not to. That being said, there is always a chance this planning could go up in smoke if we can't get on a flight. Hence, I make NO non-refundable reservations. Historically, flying to Europe in this time frame is easiest. While it can be nerve wracking, it is splendid when it all works. I adore the planning process, that is definitely part of the fun.

Mizzou, all the way.

But don't hold that against me!

Lol, Cath! I was very sad and disappointed to see Mizzou leave the Big 12. We had a long, healthy rivalry with Mizzou. While I now live in the deep south, I am not a fan of the SEC. But I did get a small amount of satisfaction to see Mizzou get their butts handed to them. Oh and Rock Chalk Jayhawk!

The basketball season might be interesting.

Good point! Ha ha!

We stayed in the Hotel Des Grandes Ecoles 3 years ago in October. We loved sitting in the ourdoor courtyard having a glass of wine every afternoon. I love the location near Rue Mouffetard. Lots of good shopping and eatin. g places. I thought the staff was really nice. The only thing that I could complain about is that the rooms are thin walled and so if you are a light sleeper and have noisy neighbors that could be a problem. For this reason the rooms do not have TVs in them. The hotel allowed us to use their refrigerator for our beer and wine and supplied us with wine glasses and a corkscrew. We did not have the breakfast there because there were so many eating places just outside the door.

We stayed at the Novotel 15 years ago. It is a 60's modern chain hotel. No charm there, and come to think of it, the rooms were noisy there too. Not a fan of the location. I think thye had an indoor swimming pool. Room was a decent size.

You might enjoy the Museum Arts and Metiers if the weather is bad and you want to do somethin indoors.

I love to stay at the Grandes Ecoles also.The location is super almost at the corner of Rue Mouffettard and walking distance from Notre Dame.
At night the hotel is very quite perhaps because is surrounded by tall walls which minimizes the usual urban city noises.

Thank you suzanne and kismet for your input regarding the Des Grandes Ecoles. Overall, I think it's a good choice for us.

Can any recommend their favorite cafes, boulangeries, or other shops in that area?

I haven't read all the replies, and I'm sure they are helpful. I would try to hire Michael Osman for at LEAST one day. he will not only maximize your time, and what you see, but you will learn so much. And your son will really enjoy him. He will do whatever you want--see what you want, or suggest things for your day. He is an artist, and is wonderful doing tours of the Louvre and orsay--or any other museums. He is quite a natural "teacher" but in an engaging manner.

I am really bad at remembering names but I liked a place called Delman's on the square (Contrescape). We eat Breakfast there quite often. We liked a place a little further down on Mouffetard. Can't recall the name but they had some cows in the window. There is a good sized grocery store on Mouffetard. There is a tiny place that serves Quiche for a very reasonable price. There is an Italian Deli at the bottom of the street for good take away food. You can get American Food nearby on Rue Des Ecoles called Breakfast in America. There is a great Chocolate shop and a couple of great Pastry shops.

I used to take my kids yearly to Paris, starting when the youngest was 12 or so. The youngest ended up spending her junior year in college there, so I'd say they had a lifelong love.

If you go with Des Grandes Ecoles, I'm going to recommend you use either a guidebook's "Hemingway's Paris" tour (there are a zillion of those, and my youngest loves to be the official narrator--and she's over 21 now!) or do the Paris Walks version. Read "A Moveable Feast" and "The Paris Wife" and you are good to go.

Don't worry about needing the best boulangerie or restaurant in the immediate hotel area. You can just walk down the hill and you are close to a zillion "Paris Bests of...". You also can just trot across a bridge onto Ile de St. Louis, explore there and then enjoy the Marais at will.

It IS a good location.

Museums: Ok, it's part of my 12-Step program...I HATE the Rodin. Bored me to tears. Ditto Les Invalides. But I love so many other museums in Paris it's hard for me not to tell you to go here, go there, etc. So let's get to basics. I frequently tell people if they have to choose between the Louvre and the d'Orsay, the Louvre has the art works you feel you must see (but don't really want to) and the d'Orsay has the works you WANT to see (the Impressionists).

With the renovation, the d'Orsay has put a sort of "mini" tour of the Impressionist Era on the top floor. Makes everything easy.

If you love Monet, L'Orangerie is worth your time. As you walk along the Seine (which should be your daily priority), l'Orangerie is always on the way...no special trippie poos needed. And you get to experience Giverny's water lilies in the round.

FYI--My secret faves are the Jaquemart Andre and the Picaso museums, but I'm not going to recommend you go there.

Another thing I advise if time is short: getting a great view OF the Eiffel Tower is actually more rewarding than going up it. I'm not kidding at all. So if time is short, I really think heading over the Sacre Coeur or seeing Paris from the Pompidou Center, etc--places that have views of the tower and of all of Paris--are always a better use of time. I actually think waiting in line for the Notre Dame towers is a great bang for your time as far as "sensing" Paris; there's nothing like one-on-one encounters with all those gargoyles to set one in a hunchback kind of mood Of course my favorite Eiffel-watching time is at night, when it sparkles on the hour. My kids got to see it sparkle just as it turned night because they dragged me up the towers of Sacre Couer in a thunderstorm, but that story is for another day...

Just being at Trocadero across the river is enchanting. The Pantheon is also a sort of neat place to see the distant sparkle.

Versailles lines are not unmanageable and the trip there and back is easy; the ever-present tour groups of foreign visitors tend to be my bugaboo. I feel as though I'm dodging herds there, even in the off season. But for my girls' first time to Paris in January 1999, we did Versailles the day we landed. We dropped our luggage off at the hotel (rooms aren't usually ready at 7 a.m. anyway), hopped the RER, toured
the inside, headed home, and dropped our heads on our pillow.

My transport tip: Buy ONE carnet at a time. If you need more, easy to get more. You might use all the billets in the carnet in one day; you might end up walking everywhere.

Have so much fun. I'm envious you get to "live" age 14.

I appreciate AlessandraZoe's humorous and candid take on the museums of Paris (I too hate Rodin and Les Invalides) and I gather you are already set on d'Orsay with your family and I stick by my recommendation that this is the right choice, HOWEVER, as a lifelong museum addict who will never check into re-hab I am I am here to say that the Louvre is overflowing with intoxicating artworks I can never get enough of, and it remains the pure heroin of all encyclopedic museums of the world, leaving even its greatest rivals in the dust. For art lovers, seeing all those magnificent works, plus knowing that you are seeing the same paintings that inspired the artists whose works now hang in the d'Orsay is a deep education in art.

So while it is true that for Americans in particular one of the biggest draws of Paris is the romance of "gaslight" Paris, the post-Hausmann years, the Impressionist years and the Hemingway years. there are still a great many people who travel to Paris to see the treasures of the Louvre, not because they feel they "ought" to, but because they passionately want what no place else but the Louvre has got.

On a more minor note, I hope AZ doesn't mind my correcting her typo: Musée Jacquemart-André

I love the Rodin, and hate Jacquemart-Andre, and don't consider the Invalides a museum. To each his own. But to go back to Michael Osman, he gave us a 2 hour tour of the Louvre (at our request because I prefer others) that was eye opening--the tour and explanation of how the chateau was built!! And then the "biggies", plus the DaVinci and the then current Napoleon. And yes, there is MUCH in the Louvre. The Michelin Green Guide is a good source for the various wings--but if you choose one, have a backup--not all are open every day. The Orsay is much more than the Impressionist tour also.

I love the Rodin, especially the garden in the spring and summer, and also love the Jacquemart Andre....and the Picasso and the Arts Decoratif and the Orangerie and.... There are so many amazing Paris museums.

I agree with Gretchen that touring any of them with Michael Osman really enhances the museum experience. We've had 20+ trips to Paris and still learn something with Michael (or Scott) each trip.

Very interesting points AZ and golden, and believe me, I am taking everything into consideration when planning this very short trip. When I mentioned to my hubby that we might skip the Louvre and go to the d'Orsay, he was dismayed. Even my son was a little disappointed. He's reading a series of books which is about Egyptology and the first book started at the Louvre. It does seem a little sacrilegious to visit Paris and not go to the Louvre. I will rethink that. I guess I should some research as to best cover what interests us most there, as opposed to trying to see it all. Okay, crossing off Rodin. But I'm afraid Les Invalides is still negotiable. Hubby is a former Marine and that stuff fascinates him.

I really have no desire to go up the Eiffel Tower. Seeing it in the day and the night will be thrilling enough.

Have put holds on the recommended books at the library.

I think if they are disappointed, you should go to the Louvre. It probably really isn't about the art, but the Orsay is specialized and mainly has Impressionist art (mostly paintings). As far as the book starting at the Louvre, the Louvre has a major Egyptian section.

I don't hate the Rodin, it's Rodin, but it's small and that is, of course, the main reason for going there (his sculptures). I love Invalides, it is outstanding. YOu have to be interested in military history, of course, that is what it is. If you aren't, you would hate it. They just redid the WWII section a few years ago and it is really great, but all of it is IMO. Invalides most certainly is a museum, I don't know how one could say it isn't, even if you don't like it. It's not an art gallery, sure, but that isn't what a museum is. http://www.musee-armee.fr/accueil.html

I wouldn't go to the catacombs, especially in February. It is an ossuary, not a theme park, and should be held in respect, if the idea is to go there because it will be like some spooky attraction in Disneyland.

I believe if you are going to make the trip the Michelin Green Guide to Paris would be a worthwhile buy.
The Rodin is more than The Thinker, I hope you know. And it is small, accessible. just a thought.
Glad for another Michael fan. One of the real benefits of their being with you is that they know the location of everything and can take you "there", and then relate the art and history to the time, etc. Your son will be REALLY engaged by him--or Scott. The reasonable cost will be your best money spent.

I'm not a big Musée Rodin fan, either, though I do love the gardens (not in February, though). I absolutely love the Musée de l'Armée and am always surprised at all the wonderful exhibits in the lower level of it. I can only do the Louvre in small pieces, but can linger in the Musée d'Orsay for hours. I almost always pay a visit to the Jacquemart-André as well, and in recent years have been spellbound by some of the exhibits in the Centre Pompidou, which I had previously written off as just being a gimicky modern art treasury. The Musée de Cluny is another wonderful venue. Not a fan of the Musée Picasso. But really, Paris is so full of great museums, it's easy to plan for ones that will fit your interests.

I do think, with limited time, you may well want to spend at least one day with a guide who can make sure you make the best use of what time you do have.

Hit submit too soon.. Wanted to add that is can be very helpful having someone who is helping facilitate your agenda rather than all of ours who post here....and who have very valid likes and dislikes.

I wouldn't go to the catacombs, especially in February. It is an ossuary, not a theme park, and should be held in respect, if the idea is to go there because it will be like some spooky attraction in Disneyland.>>

i think that's a little harsh, Christine - I get no impression that the OP is thinking of the catacombs as a Disney -like attraction.

and Les Invalides might well be a good choice given her husband's military background.

GAjayhawks - if your DH and DS are enthused by the Louvre, especially if DS is interested in a particular exhibit, then of course you should go. We saw quite a lot of the egyptian area on our last visit, but sadly not on purpose - we couldn't find our way out, and went past the mummies several times on our hunt for the exit!

BTW, the Louvre has special themed trails and activities for families and children:

http://www.louvre.fr/en/parcours

one of them has an Egyptian theme.

Hadn't been to the Louvre in years, but was in Paris this December with my cousin, who is very interested in ancient Egypt, so off we went. I hadn't visited that part of the Louvre in quite a long time. It really is terrific (though overwhelming). Sounds like your son would enjoy it.

I love the Pompidou, but I like modern and contemporary art and do not think of it as gimmicky. I also just like the whole center. It always feels lively to me.

And I enjoy Musée d'Orsay, but not so much for the Impressionists, because I'm not too crazy about a lot of Impressionism.

I love Carnavalet--especially Proust's bedroom!

Different strokes.

<<But really, Paris is so full of great museums, it's easy to plan for ones that will fit your interests.>>

Yep.

Another vote for a day with Michael Osman. We have spent time with him on three different trips and, as someone who hates organized tours, I can tell you that he is unlike any other guide you have ever experienced. My daughters were 11 and 13 the first time we used Michael and he designed a day for us that entranced my kids as well as my husband and I. He is very special.

Another thing to look into is the Behind the Scenes tour at the Eiffel Tower. It was much more interesting than I could have hoped and gave us a new perspective on the tower.

Have a great trip,
Eve

goldenautumn--Correct away! I am becoming so careless anymore, so do forgive me.

I do want to correct an impression, though. I made it seem as though I did not like the Louvre. Actually, I love it. In fact during one's weeks stay around the time of the Millennium, the kids and we would start every day at the Louvre for two hours before we explored elsewhere. We laugh to this day that no matter how we used the map, we always ended up in Mesopotamia.

But the museum requires a lot of time and effort so the average first visitor can complete his "checklist" for his merit badge: Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, etc.

When one starts getting to feel at home in the place, you get to walk in and say, "Let's visit 'Fat Lady Hall' today (the Rubens area) or "Let's see if the Northern painters wing is finally opened" (I swear it's only open every blue moon).

That's why I have often said that if time is short and one can only choose one, the d'Orsay gives more instant reward with far less effort. If you are a museum rat, though, I totally agree that the Louvre is sublime.

Ooo--St. Cirque, I forgot the Musee de Cluny was in the 'hood, so to speak. Great idea!

Yeah, that's really a fun one if one concentrates on the jokes in the tapestries. My sister HATES museums, but my youngest daughter (14 at the time) and I managed to drag her there, and she actually enjoyed it.

The old Montparnasse railway station represented in Hugo no longer exists. The film crew built the entire set in the studio in London, drawing their inspiration from other Paris stations: the Gare de Lyon for the clock tower, the Gare du Nord for the façade, and the former Gare d’Orsay – today the Musée d’Orsay – for the giant clock.

For a wonderful description (and map) of Paris locations used in the movie (and other movies, including Midnight in Paris) see (pdf documents are in French and English)

The old Montparnasse railway station represented in
Hugo no longer exists. The film crew built the entire set
in the studio in London, drawing their inspiration from
other Paris stations: the Gare de Lyon for the clock tower,
the Gare du Nord for the façade, and the former Gare
d’Orsay – today the Musée d’Orsay – for the giant clock.
American and European fi lm-makers have often used Paris
stations as settings.

You may also want to consider a visit to Musee Grevin and Musée des Arts et Métiers with a 12-year old boy.

I cannot imagine standing in front of the Eiffel Tower with him and not going to the top.

He's 14.

Just made our reservation for Hotel Des Grandes Ecoles and boarding for our dog. This is becoming real!

Have just returned from the library with the recommended books. Am already entranced by A Moveable Feast. So interesting to read about the neighborhood where we'll be staying.

Here is a rough list so far...
For sure:
Louvre
Notre Dame Tower
Musée de l'Armée
Trocadero (For Eiffel Tower)

Maybe:
Musée d'Orsay
Musée des Arts et Métiers
L'Orangerie
Ice skating

Blue Bike vs. Michael Osman (have sent a FB message to MO)

Our flight arrives EARLY on Monday. We are planning on dropping our luggage off and taking off on foot. Not sure if we'll need a nap, we'll play it by ear.

I'm trying to figure out exactly how to get to our hotel from CDG. I do know that we need to take Line B of the RER. Do we change at St. Michel Notre Dame for the metro towards Gare D'Austerlitz and get off at Cardinal Lemoine? How do we get from St. Michel Notre Dame to the yellow line Cluny La Sorbonne? (assuming that's what we need to do) Thank you!

All transportation in Paris issues are addressed here: www.ratp.fr

Taxi is easy, quick and direct.

StCirq- what a great app! Was able to save the journey. Hopefully I can access it w/out wifi.

Gretchen- it looks like the taxi is much more expensive than RER and Metro. We'll only have one 21" rolling carryon per person. Should be manageable and kind of fun.

Consider a Segway Tour.

I'd still get taxi, GAJayhawks.

The problem isn't the distance from your metro stop or the number of transfers. It is the unreliability of working escalators to get out of the subway and up and down the underground correspondence levels between your lines. It gets REALLY old fast with even the smallest of suitcases when you are jetlagged.

I'm far from alone in this recommendation. If you check posts from all of us "oldsters" who are a pretty darn frugal bunch, we usually say, "Take the taxi in and decide later how you want to get back."

Like many other posters here, my husband and I never check luggage and even have light roll-ons. That led us to believe we would have an easy time getting to our hotel near the Gare Austerlitz via Metro (just one line transfer) about ten years ago.

Hmmph. Damn near killed me.

By the way, as soon as you have three people in the car, the taxi fare becomes rather reasonable as a pp cost. Your cost pp via Metro from the airport was 10.50 Euros the last time I traveled it, making your Metro cost to be at least 32.50 Euros for the trip. Your taxi to that area will cost no more than 50 Euros.

That "splurge" pays off. You get to the taxi rank just by walking out the terminal door. Getting the Metro,assuming you will fly into Terminal I, involves descending elevators,and then taking a connecting underground shuttle to the CDG Metro stop.

Don't get me wrong -- My husband and I LOVE using the Metro and the bus system. But we still think the taxi ride in makes the rest of my trip so much more enjoyable.

what AlessandraZoe has posted makes a lot of sense; it's why I pick hotels that are within walking distance of an RER B station, so I avoid "correspondences" that I am unfamiliar with when I am struggling with luggage.

And I did use the Metro when I was staying practically ON line B, Annhig.

We were staying at Hotel du Pantheon, so once we were on the Metro, we knew that all we had to do was get off at Luxembourg and up the escalator there to street level.

HOWEVER, full disclosure...
a) It was like my 7th? trip to Paris within five years, so I knew CDG like the back of my hand AND EVEN THEN...
b) That darn escalator to the street was broken.

And we still had to hike up the hill to the Pantheon with the luggage, but we were certainly prepared for that because we had walked it often before.

lol, Alessandra, I'm not sure that I'd describe that as being within walking distance.

we had a similar experience when we stayed at the Hotel Britannique, which is "near" Chatelet les Halles.

"Near" as in 2 escalators, several staircases, and a long corridor or 3, and then a hike after we'd escaped from the underground tunnels. but having done it on the way out, on the way back it was a lot easier.

I don't even like Les Halles Chatelet without luggage!!

Very good points! Everyone has been a wealth of information! Ok, taxi it is. It would be nice to arrive less stressed.

btw, Michael contacted me! I had a difficult time figuring out how to contact him. Many people talk about him but several of the links to him did not work. I finally searched for him on Facebook. The best link for him is at the bottom of his comments.

<<Dear Lolly:
Hello and Bonjour!
Thank you so much for writing with regard to my services here in Paris as a tour guide. I was so very happy to know that you had been led to me by way of the Fodor's travel forum. I always fear trying to live up to any praises you may read there! Please know that it would be a pleasure to assist you and your family in any way possible while you are in Paris next month. When necessary I do share my touring dates with my friend and touring partner Scott Emerson. I will juggle our schedule so one of us will be able to come out to help visitors tour the Paris sites. As of today, one of us would have dates open over the time of your visit between Monday 18 and Thursday 21 February. Hopefully our planning will allow us some time to share the sites of Paris next month.
As you may already know, I am an American artist living in Paris for more than fifteen years. Scott Emerson is also an American. He has lived and worked in France for more than 18 years. He is an opera singer that will offer his time to me whenever possible. Over the years we have progressed from guiding friends and family through this city's sites and museums to sharing our knowledge of Paris with the visiting tourist. Basically, we want to help a person see as much of Paris while they are visiting here. Scott or I will also share all that we have learned of its history, culture and shopping along the way. We can tailor a touring day to whatever might interest the Paris visitor. We can discover things both by plan and by chance.
We can certainly try to help you to see as much of Paris in the few days you are in the city.
On a planned touring day, it is our habit to meet at your hotel or apartment at the time you would decide. We would make suggestions of the best things to see on any given day (different hours for different sites and taking advantage of the good weather days). If there should be special sites on "your list" you most want to visit, we will offer best ways to see them. Both Scott and I have a first hand knowledge of the metro and bus systems here, so we could easily make our way through the city like the Parisians with little effort. We do not have a car in Paris.
Our fee for a day's tour is 130 Euros. This amount does not include entrance fees, and possible travel expenses outside of Paris. We are only able to accept Euros cash on the day of the tour. We will stay with you for the entire day if that is what you wish, until the museums close or you are exhausted.
If you should have any other questions about me, Scott, or the city of Paris please feel free to ask.
I've very impressed that you found your way to my facebook page!
Sending best wishes from Paris for a Happy New Year!
Sincerely,
Michael
http://www.parisfind.net/Tour_guide_in_Paris.html

DISCOVER PARIS A living Map for the city of Paris...
www.parisfind.net
English speaking guide available for private or small group tours of Paris. Enjoy a personal custom designed tour from a professional artist living in >>

I am so happy we convinced you, GAJayhawks, of the taxi before we had to pull out family fingernails And it is WONDERFUL that you posted the Michael Osman reply. I have never used his services but based on this board, have recommended his services to others. This explanation is worth its weight in gold.

Annhig--Actually, the uphill with rollers wasn't bad at all. Like I said, I knew what we'd have to do--and I knew taking the luggage back down would be all downhill. So I figured I would be even. The darn non-working escalator out of the Metro, though, made me SO furious. It worked the way down.

Figures.

Gretchen--I HATE Chatelet/Les Halles. You are so right. Even without the merest weight, I will go past the Metro stop and walk back above ground rather than walk those correspondences. Even if there's a torrential rain outside. I swear that if I take a right somewhere there, I'll end up combing the catacombs. Without a flashlight.

Your day or days spent with Michael will be an incredible investment. You CANnot do it better in any way.
When we had Michael guide our family, I had been to Paris at least 10 times. He showed me things I hadn't done--AND guided our family--the prime reason.

GA- with your diligence I'm sure you'll have noticed, but on the chance you haven't yet - pay attention to the days when the museums are closed. You're starting your trip on Monday for only a couple of days, so you should note that many museums close on either mondays or tuesdays. For example from your list:

Louvre and Orangerie (and cluny, which I think is great and so close by to where you are that you should visit!) are closed on Tuesdays.
Orsay and Arts et Metiers are closed on Mondays.

Too bad about the Catacombs being closed - they are truly a haunting, incredible experience that is quite unforgettable. From what I could find (hardly any notice even on their website) it sounds like there is some ventilation issue so maybe they will reopen - perhaps check again closer to your trip.

Finally, if any of you like french patisseries or chocolates - there are a couple of really great ones about 15-20min walk from your hotel, so if you're exploring on foot you could try stopping by one or two:

Aoki Sadaharu
Gerard Mulot
Pierre Herme
Patrick Roger (chocolates... a bit stuck-up at times, expensive, but oh-so-good)
[...and, if, despite the weather, you want some ice cream,... Amorino is my favorite in Paris. They have grown a lot and have multiple locations, but it's still always really delicious. I'm sure it's warm inside all their shops ]

Google maps can show you exactly where all these are - they all have at least one location in the area between blvd st. germain and the luxembourg gardens which is pretty close.

Have fun!

GAJayhawks - This thread may be of interest to you.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g187147-i14-k6048209-CDG_airport_to_Hotel_des_Grandes_Ecoles-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

AlessandraZoe

Just as an aside, "more instant reward with less effort" kind of sums up a trend in American evaluation of art (and what it means to travel) that is in dire need of correction, I think. As others have pointed out -- and you did too -- the Louvre is one of the world's most fabulous institutions of broad education, actually almost a world in itself. The instantly lovable easy-peasy connect the dots colors of the Impressionist era are adorable, but even the "average" tourist with the right perspective can appreciate the monumental accomplishment of the Louvre as a place of learning and intellectual challenge.

I meant to add it is possible to hate Les Invalides precisely because one does understand it.

Sorry to chime in so late; it looks like you have a great plan. We've taken our kids to Paris 4 times (now 20 yr. old son and 17 yr. old daughter) and they've pretty much liked everything you put on your must see list. My son and husband also wandered off one day and saw the Musée d'histoire naturelle (Natural History Museum) and they loved it. My son is a history buff and he adores the Musée de l'Armée, but my daughter and I like it very much, too.

We always visit the Louvre but let the kids pick which things they want to see. I have to at least walk by the Mona Lisa and I have to see the Vermeer, but that's pretty much it for me. The museum has a lot of great treasures but it also has high boredom potential because of the sheer volume of works (i.e. things start to look the same).

I would like to recommend the book Frommer's 24 Great Walks in Paris. We've used this book to explore and have never been disappointed. The walks are fun because they become a sort of treasure hunt as you follow the directions to try and find your next stop. Often we find that the things we discover along the way to our destination are just as interesting as the thing we're supposed to be looking for!

I love Paris at any time of the year and I think you'll have a great time. Bon séjour à Paris!

I totally agree with dlejhunt's recommendation for the "24 Great Walks in Paris." As I had earlier explained, we often did a "do it yourself" walking tour, with youngest as narrator. And when she spent her college semester abroad in Paris, "24 Walks" was one of her selected "must takes". In fact, her abroad friends told us she made them do walking tours instead of allowing them to sleep in on weekends (she would call them with "You are in PARIS; SEE IT").

If this were your second or third trip, I'd suggest you choose a theme. On one trip, we concentrated on Paris passages--all the covered arcades. The tacky but neat Musee Grevin ended up as part of that exploration and we loved it.

We also enjoyed the Musee de l'Armee. In fact, I'd take it over the Rodin any day.

Then again, we enjoyed the Alligator Farm near St. Augustine. No accounting for tastes.

In my mind I've already been. I have spent hours on the Internet, library and bookstores planning our trip to Paris. What fun researching a trip can be! I really want to thank all of you for your very thoughtful and insightful input. It certainly has influenced how I've planned from where we are staying to prioritizing what we will see. I imagine I will probably have more questions closer to our departure. We'll be there in a month!

goldenautumn--
I think I understand what you are saying. And I have to tell you that even on a bus, passing the Pyramid outside the Louvre makes my heart flutter a little--I love the place.

You should not have copied and pasted Michel Osman's personal reply.

Less than a week before our trip! I have been (probably unwisely) watching the weather like a hawk. I've seen it go from 40% to 70% to 0% chance of rain for next week. Something tells me that that may be too good to be true. The good thing is, it has forced me to look at all scenarios in terms of packing.

We will be arriving at an ungodly hour (6:00 a.m.!) on Monday. Our plan is to drop our luggage off at the Hotel Des Grandes Ecoles and take off from there. Time to have our first petite dejeuner! Since we will probably be wiped, I thought Monday would be a good day to get batobus passes. We will get on at either Notre Dame or Jardin des Plantes and ride all the way up to the Eiffel Tower. We will walk to the Trocodero for primo viewing and photo op. I was considering climbing the towers of Notre Dame before the batobus in case the boat puts us in a stupor. I imagine we will have some "hey We're in Paris!" energy early on. After those, I was thinking of going back to the hotel for a rest and to freshen up. For dinner that night, I saw this restaurant. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d774814-Reviews-Le_quincambosse-Paris_Ile_de_France.html Does anyone have any opinions on this place? I thought it would be a nice walk from our hotel by way of the Iles (if you can say that).

I'm sorry to say we will not be using Michael Osman's services this trip. We each had some input as to what we really wanted to do. Our son's was the blue bike tour as one of his friends did it and that's all he can think/talk about. So that's his birthday present. He turns 14 on the 21st. So at 10 a.m. on Tuesday, we are doing the 4 hour bike tour. Then maybe a couple of hours at Musée de l'Armée. Dinner???

Wednesday is supposed to be sunny so maybe Sainte-Chappelle and/or Notre Dame if we didn't see it the first day. This is the day we have in mind for the Louvre. Will probably concentrate on the Sully Wing along with sculpture. Then maybe ice skating to be around other kids.

We are flying home on Thursday. Shorter than I had hoped but that's what worked best for us.
I'm hoping this is a springboard for more trips!

Should we expect to carry cash for street food/cafes etc.? I am so used to using a debit card. Have no idea what to start with.

If you do decide to go up the Eiffel Tower, I would suggest doing it at night when it is all lit up. That will save you time in the day to do other things and it really is quite pretty at night.

Have a great trip!

Would not use your debit card to purchase food,etc. Fine for getting cash out of ATMs--ATMs are everywhere.

If you don't have a credit card (most of us old-timers on the board use ones with no foreign transaction fees), then cash is good.

And of course, I assume you know that one should not use a credit card for a cash advance at an ATM--huge fees.

Packing suggestion--few clothes, but layers, layers, layers. Think "windproof" more than anything. It whips up along the Seine.

Too bad about Michael.
Yes, have some cash in your pocket--just get it out of an ATM, of course.
I would not plan on a nice restaurant meal your first night. We usually are ready for an early dinner at a brasserie and go to bed--and then are good to go the next day.
Batobus? Take the Seine boat ride just before dinner as the lights are coming up.
And I really would not go back and take a nap!! Just keep on keepin' on.
Your trip really has been shortened but have fun.

KT, don't think we will go up the ET this time, but I like your and Gretchen's suggestion to wait until night time. Most times we usually do just power through the first day to deal with jet lag, but we never have arrived so early.

Allesandra, we got our credit card specifically for international travel. We regularly use it, but it has safety/perks for traveling abroad.

Okay, we'll save the restaurant for the next night. Thanks, Gretchen. I know the short trip sounds blasphemous. We will not even scratch the surface. I don't know if we're even rubbing it. But I don't feel nearly as guilty since we are flying standby and plan on returning. A lovely perk that helps make up for all the birthdays, anniversaries, kids' sports and concerts etc. that my husband regularly misses.

I'm not suggesting going UP in the tower although at night the line will be shorter. I'm suggesting bagging the batobus and doing the real Seine river cruise for an hour.

I just assumed the cruises would be more expensive than the batobus. I just checked and It's actually cheaper if we buy ahead online. We just cannot get off and on. But we would get some commentary which would be nice. Is tackling the towers at Notre Dame a crazy idea for our arrival day?