7 nights: Feb. 25 – March 3, 2013
Cast of characters: devastatingly handsome, youthful male couple—56 & 60
We were working in Northern Ireland and since we’ve been throughout Ireland and the U.K. many times, we decided to add a vacation in the “neighborhood.” DP had always wanted to visit the catacombs of Paris, so when I found an EasyJet fare of around $60 per person, it was settled.
This felt as if it was my first trip to Paris. My previous trip was more than thirty-five years ago. During that brief visit every museum was on strike and I remembered virtually nothing of the trip except for chocolate chaud and Versailles. DP had never been to Paris.
Although we’re quite well traveled we had some concerns. I’ll address those first. I recalled that very few Parisians spoke English (or at least to me) thirty-five years ago. So I took a couple of French lessons, bought a few phrase books, and soon realized it was utterly hopeless. It was also completely unnecessary. As soon as I eked out “Je ne compend pas,” everyone responded in serviceable English. None of that infamous attitude and no problem communicating. I gave a security guard quite a laugh when he pointed to the bulge in my coat pocket and asked in French what I assumed to be, “What is in your pocket?”
I was aiming for “chapeau.” What came out was “chapel.” When he was able to stop laughing, he asked me, “You have a building? A chapel in your pocket?” I was glad to provide some entertainment.
Concern #2: Where to stay??? Where to stay???
When I began planning I knew nothing about arrondisements, and couldn’t get a sense of how far they were apart. Many people on this forum recommended the 5th or 6th, but someone else said that with our interests, she’d recommend the 4th. Merci beaucoup to that person!
We loved our location in the Marais near St. Paul’s and I don’t think we would have been as happy if we had stayed anywhere else. With its quaint, narrow streets and cobblestoned Rue de Rosiers, it felt like we’d stepped into a Hollywood movie set of Paris. We also loved being able to walk to Notre Dame, the Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, Ste. Chappelle, and so many other areas.
Our hotel was the three star Hotel Ste. Paul Le Marais (156 E per night; 160 on the weekend)—at 8 Rue Sevigne—just up the street from Ste. Paul’s cathedral. We walked and walked and then we walked some more—probably 8 – 10 miles on many of the days—and while we enjoyed all the different areas (well … maybe except for Pigalle), some of them felt reminiscent of New York City’s 5th Avenue, Central Park West, or Upper East Side—not that those are bad things, but I felt more like I was in the Paris I’d imagined when we were in the Marais.
Next concern: food. I have lots of dietary restrictions and typically eat the most boring, healthy meals. We don’t drink wine or alcohol, don’t eat fancy foods with rich sauces, no fish, can’t use anything with sugar, and are decidedly not gourmets. We prefer not to spend exorbitant amounts on meals because they’re not important to us. Where would we possibly find anything to eat in Paris -- where everyone dines like royalty???
No problem whatsoever! The mind-boggling selection of restaurants, markets, cafes, bistros, and ethnic food takeaways made it easy. Because we prepaid our hotel, it included a bonus: breakfast. The buffet selection included cold cereals, scrambled eggs, disgusting sausages that tasted like hotdogs that had sat too long in the fridge, juices and fresh fruits, a beautiful selection of cheeses and yogurts, and the most impossibly amazing croissants I’ve ever imagined. There were also brioches, chocolate croissants, crackers, and baguettes. I would have been fine sticking to the unsweetened Muesli with plain yogurt … but then I tasted the croissants … and the cheeses. Thankfully, I don’t have another cholesterol test schedule for six more weeks!
Lunches were either sandwiches on-the-go (or in museum cafes), or in little bistros. Food choices seemed endless. The breads were consistently superb! Our best meal was probably dinner at La Bourgesse near our hotel in Le Marais. We started with a tasty soup then we both had ravioli “royale” that was in a sauce that must have been pure cream, butter, and cheeses. OMG. I couldn’t understand the full description on the menu, but it should have read, “heart attack du jour.” It was fantastique! I do hope it wasn’t gauche to pick up the plate and lick it. Actually, I did use the bread to sop up every last drop of that sauce. (42 Euro for two.)
Another wonderful meal was at Pizza MoMo (on Rue Rivoli, also near our hotel). DP had an excellent brick oven pizza and I enjoyed a fantastic “Sicilienne” main course salad. (23 Euro for two.) Our pizza was served unsliced and we noticed that other diners were using a knife and fork to eat theirs’. We followed suit.
I could have eaten at a different restaurant every day for weeks without ever walking more than a couple of blocks from our hotel. Within one block there were three Chinese restaurants that also offered takeaway. We love dim sum dumplings and can’t get them in Nashville, so on several occasions we made a wonderful, inexpensive meal of Chinese dumplings, sautéed vegetables, and chicken skewers. (under 20 Euro for two)
There was a marvelous bakery (but aren’t they all?) next door to the Chinese restaurant, near St. Paul’s. DP ordered cheesecake, and a raspberry/apple tart that got very high marks. We also had wonderful quiches that they heated and we took with us.
Before I leave the meal department … the pitas stuffed (and I do mean stuffed!) with chicken and vegetables was excellent at L’as—and although it was very crowded, we only waited a few minutes.
Another day, we had an obligatory crepe from the stand on Rue du Rosiers. We both chose crepe “reine” (jambon, tons of fromage, champignons, and olives). Surprisingly good—and so inexpensive. I think 11 or 12 Euros for both of us.
Walking down Rue de Montaigne (near Champs D’Elysee) we passed restaurants that showed us how the “other half” lives. One menu had a starter for 158 Euros—and several others close to that. AGGHHH! I suspect that we enjoyed our dumplings, pitas, and crepes just as much as if we’d mortgaged the house for a dinner—but I don’t put anyone down who enjoys that; it’s just not my weakness.
I was so impressed with the Parisian attention to aesthetics; from the exquisite presentation of foods to the picture postcard window displays to the perfectly coiffed men and women—beauty was obviously appreciated.
Next installment to come …
Paris in Winter: the Highs, the Lows, and ... the Bizarre Accident
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Songdoc, you make it sound like a dream, exactly how a vacation should seem. For a guy who doesn't persue fancy meals you make a crepe sound gourmet. Looking forward to the next installment.
I know the area and feel the same as you . Everything you want or needn a smallwalkable area. I've made a note of La Bourgesse!
Great start of your trip report. One sentence made me really laugh (in a good way): "Our pizza was served unsliced and we noticed that other diners were using a knife and fork to eat theirs’. We followed suit."
I would never expect my pizza to be served sliced and we always eat them with knife/fork and I still recall the fact that on my first visit to the US I was surprised they served the pizza sliced
Waiting for the rest!
So happy to hear that you are now part of the "I Love Paris" group on Fodors. Your descriptions take me away to my favortie city and show that you don't have to spend a bundle to have a wonderful time in an expensive city.
Looking forward to more.
At this point thanks so very much..Memories, memories..let'd hear more!!!
Great start... Keep it coming!
It is nice to see the prices that you mentioned because I see too many reports about "dinner for 2 for only 80€ - what a bargain!" (Yes, before I get jumped on, I know that 80€ for two can be a fantastic bargain if you are a foodie.)
Wonderful stuff...thanks!
Your trip sounds similar to mine since I went to Paris for a long weekend at the President's Day holiday and also stayed right down Rue Ormesson from your hotel. Great location and so close to the metro to get around. Did you try the malt whisky bar on Rue Caron across from Hotel Caron>? It has about 60 kinds of malts and 10 ales. The area is charming and close to Place Vosges. Looking forward to reading more of your report.
songdoc, thank you for your very well-written and refreshing report.
looking forward to more!
Merci to all for the very kind comments. I was afraid I'd be the only one who didn't go to fancy restaurants.
<Did you try the malt whisky bar on Rue Caron across from Hotel Caron>? It has about 60 kinds of malts and 10 ales.>
No, I passed on that. No alcohol for me!
Back to working on the report ... and the photos.
Great fun, waiting for more. I'm heading to Paris next week, taking notes.
Looking forward to more installments of your trip report, Songdoc. I'd love to stay again in the 4th but my husband has a strong fondness for the 5th or 6th along the Seine so that's where we will be once again this fall
Deborah
Really enjoying your report. We've stayed in that neighborhood and also love that area around St. Paul. Like you, we always find plenty of satisfying things to eat that don't overly stress our limited budget. We always get a falafel at l'As du Fallafel, and now I'll have to try the chicken and vegetable pita you recommend when we return to Paris in April. (Can you get falafel in Nashville?)
Songdoc...you are not going to believe this...I've eaten at Pizza MoMo!!!! What are the odds...the President & VP of the "We are obsessed with Kauai" club have both been to Pizza MoMo!
. We went to Paris for a week and I was concerned about what we were going to eat because DH & I are burgers and pizza type people. We don't eat fancy foods either. We also, like you & DP, stayed in the Marais. One night we found Pizza MoMo and ended up eating there two or three times during our stay!
Just a few minutes ago I was thinking about you so I posted a reply on your Kauai trip report asking about your April return to the best place on Earth and how your Paris trip was going. I then clicked on your name to find a Paris trip report.
I actually said out loud, "no way" when I read you ate at Pizza MoMo. DH & I took our very first trip and only trip, so far, to Europe in Oct 2008. I haven't been able to return because I can only return to Kauai...
Can't wait to read more and see photos!
Enjoying your report.I always stay in that exact area and know all the food stores and restaurants you mention.
Keep writing your interesting report, I head back to Paris this Spring and always need new ideas.
louistraveler: that's HILARIOUS!!! What a small world.
. (Actually, one restaurant serves them, but on weekends only.)
MaineGG: Yes, there is falafel in Nashville. When I first visited Nashville in 1986 there were very few ethnic restaurants. Now, you can find almost everything--except dim sum dumplings
I think we simply ordered "chicken pita" at l'As du Fallafel, and it came stuffed with vegetables.
I'm working on the photos!
Before I get into the highlights I will mention the one disappointment. One of the reasons we chose Paris for our vacation was that we knew there would be a good chance that in late February/early March we could hit nasty weather. We figured that if it were cold, rainy, or snowy, we’d spend our time in museums.
.
hehe. Up close and in person, the Van Gogh self-portrait was so satisfying.
Our first evening in Paris I wandered the Marais while a swirl of snowflakes danced around the lampposts. It was unbelievably beautiful and I took a photo that no one can believe is not a painting. I knew Le Marais was the old Jewish quarter, but I’d assumed it was simply where Jews lived centuries (or at least decades) ago. It had never crossed my mind that it would still have Hassidic Jews, shops with signs in Hebrew, and those amazing delis, falafel stands, and bakeries. Tres atmospherique!
The next day was foggy, gray, and gloomy, and alternated between sleet and snow flurries. High temps struggled to get much above freezing and the tiny parts of my face that were exposed were flushed red from the raw, biting cold.
I’m very sensitive to weather and light, and photography is a passion. The light was simply refusing to cooperate—not to mention the fact that I had to be careful not to get the camera lens wet. “Ohh …,” but I told myself, “It’s Paris!!!” We dressed in countless layers and tromped for miles and miles, soaking in the beauty and ambience.
I’ll confess (and I’m sure some will think I’m ungrateful) that day after day, when the weather never cleared up, it became hard not to be frustrated and disappointed—and then beat myself up for being frustrated and disappointed! I saw intermittent patches of blue sky for a grand total of less than two hours – out of seven days. I should mention that four days prior to Paris I had been in shorts and a T-shirt, strolling in the surf at Hanalei Bay. I had come from a month in Kauai (where I spend as much time as possible) and it had been 78 and sunny. So … enough complaining.
I had the typical tourist list of attractions and neighborhoods I wanted to see, but Les Catacombes was the top of the list for DP. It had been closed due to flooding during most of December and January. We were not hopeful of getting in. But it was open when we arrived! And it was incredible!!! I’m guessing that walking amongst 6 million skeletons (albeit artfully arranged skeletons) would not be on everyone’s list of highlights, but I found it fascinating—and strangely beautiful. It was a definite highlight!
Next favorite: a night-time cruise on the Seine. I would never have done this—especially in the winter—but a friend insisted, and we loved it. Seeing the colored lights on the water, and monuments bathed in light was like watching a moving painting—and I took some beautiful photos.
Ste. Chappelle was a mega-highlight among highlight. AMAZING. BREATHTAKING. SPECTACULAR. (Help—I’m running out of superlatives.) I almost cried from the beauty. Even the entry chapel was gorgeous. Sadly, about one-third of those magnificent windows were covered, as they were in the process of being restored. Still, few things have ever left me so at a loss for words, or have impressed me as much as Ste. Chappelle.
We had planned a combination visit with the Conciergerie—but it was closed during my entire stay for the dismantling of an exhibition. Very disappointing. While I’m on that topic … the Musee D’Cluny was also closed, as was … (sniff, sniff) the tower at Notre Dame.
At Notre Dame, the tower was closed (for two weeks) due to reinstallation of the restored bells ☹. Grrrrr. But Notre Dame was almost forgiven because we got to see a mass, accompanied by some beautiful organ music and a soprano. We also got to see the bells up close, although I would have preferred them in their natural habitat. During our first visit it was so mobbed we could barely move. The only peace came when we paid to visit the treasury, where there were few tourists. I can’t imagine what it must be like during the spring and summer! When we returned for the mass (at 6:30 PM) the crowds had thinned considerably. Hot tip: visit Notre Dame to see a mass—and not hordes of tourists.
Montmartre: The views of Sacre Coeur were amazing. Unfortunately, the views FROM Sacre Coeur were almost nonexistent due to the heavy, gray fog that draped the city below. (But I did get a photo I love because of that fog.) Still, enjoyed touring Montmartre. We followed the Rick Steves’ tour route, which we found confusing at times. We mostly found our way by following the crowds who were all heading to the same places. As I’d read, it was ridiculously touristy, and packed on a Saturday afternoon. But it was a unique experience, and a glimpse of how this section might have looked when Picasso strolled its streets. I enjoyed seeing the artists painting and hawking their works at Place de Tertre. DP didn’t like it much, but I wouldn’t have missed it.
And speaking of Montmarte … don’t think I’m macabre, but we found the cemetery to be so beautiful. I switched to black & white, and my inner Ansel Adams was happy
We’d been warned about pickpockets and had no problems due to taking precautions. But Montmartre and the Eiffel tower viewing area (near the Aquarium) were full of shady characters who looked like hungry wolves eyeing the tasty tourists. I wore so many layers of clothing that it would have taken a miracle for anyone to have gotten through to the pockets that contained anything.
A guided tour of the Opera Garnier was another highlight. Just magnificent—and I loved the Chagall ceiling, although DP (along with many others) did not. Wish I could have attended a performance. We only took the guided tour because we believed it would give us access to additional areas. But the only additional view it afforded was from the orchestra of the theater. Peons who did not pay for tour could only view the theater from a box on an upper level. It made little difference—but the guide and the commentary were interesting, and I’m glad we did it.
We had tentatively planned a visit to Versailles, but it wasn’t near the top of our list, and after seeing Napolean III’s apartments at the Louvre and Opera Garnier we felt we’d exceeded our quota of completely over-the-top-of-the-top decadence in design and furnishings. So we skipped Versailles. (I still have my photos from 35 years ago.)
As expected, the Musee D’Orsay was another highlight. Oh, how I do love those impressionists! The building itself would be a highlight even if it were empty. I was surprised to realize that almost everything in the movie “Hugo” that was filmed there had been computer generated or recreated on a soundstage. Still, I loved the building—and the smorgasbord of impressionist (and post-impressionist) paintings made quite an impression
We were thrilled to both be approached with the “gold ring” scam just outside the Musee D’Orsay. Hehe. If it were not for this forum, I would not have known to glare, and firmly say, “Non!” By the way, I believe I saw a version of it at the CDG airport, as well. There was a souvenir on the ground (right in the middle of a very busy area) and when I stopped, about to pick it up, I noticed I was being watched by a woman who clearly did not appear to be traveling. I moved on …
The Louvre blew me away. Again, I felt the building itself was as spectacular as its contents. I forced myself to prioritize and focus on my favorite areas. I could have easily spent a second day there. I was underwhelmed by Venus de Milo, but it was fun to see it in person. Mona and Winged Victory did not disappoint. But it was some of the lesser known sculptures that moved me the most. I loved the Louvre even more than I thought I would—and that’s saying a lot!
Seeing the Eiffel Tower lit at night from across the Seine was more beautiful than I would have expected. When the lights put on a show (on the hour) it was fun to hear the gasps from the crowd. So pretty!
To be continued … and photos to come!
What a glorious trip you had---despite the inhospitable weather!!
Merci, songdoc - I am enjoying your report.
Carry on...
You are making me want to go back to Paris again!
As for your disappointment with the weather, you should know that you had the privilege of visiting Paris during the gloomiest winter with the least sunshine in the last 50 years.
What a bummer for the OP, kerouac! That makes me remember the times we have had weather in the 50s, gloomy and miserably raw in FL in January and the people there say, "Oh, it is never like this here!"
kerouac: thanks for letting me know of this distinction! But it beats the previous trip--when every museum was on strike!
I am really enjoying the report and can't wait to see your pictures. Thanks for sharing!
Great report! We were there for 18 days and overlapped with the beginning of your trip. And yes, the weather was very cold and gloomy for much of our stay too. We've been to Paris countless times in the winter and never had weather like this. kerouac that is a distinction I would prefer not to have.
Great report! More please.
Gloomy or not, sounds like you had a great trip which more than lived up to your expectations. Great report! Looking forward to the rest.
Songdoc, great report.Good for you- soldiering on with grace despite the weather...
Songdoc: Just found this now, and am glad I did.
It's always fun to follow along with a traveler to Paris, seems almost like being there.
I love all kinds of food, and several of your choices made me salivate. No excuses necessary.
I'll be following along some more....
Enjoying the energy of your writing!
What a great report! A friend and I will visit Paris for one week in July. I have not been to Paris since about 1986, and my friend has never been. It's on her bucket list, so I'm going to help her enjoy the city!
We are not foodies so your recommendations for eating establishments are perfect! We may, however, add a glass of wine or fancy cocktail at times. (and I do know all about how they serve a pizza) My last visit to Paris included a visit to a hospital by ambulance... anaphylactic shock (sp) from a food allergy... so I know exactly what you mean about being very very careful what you put into your mouth. I do not EVER want a repeat of THAT episode!!!
We will stay in the 6th, or is it the 7th... (not confirmed just yet)... so the location should be very similar to what you experienced. The main difference will be/should be the weather, as I don't think July will bring snow and cold temps.
Anyway, just wanted to let you know that you are most certainly not the only one who doesn't want or expect a gourmet meal and the gourmet price that goes with it. Simple but tasty food is the best!! Sounds like you found just THAT. Good for you!!
My DH and I will head to Switzerland next week, and we have about 5 days at the beginning of our trip that are "free" before we get very busy with business!! Maybe, just maybe, I can convince him of a quick Paris preview??? He has also not been to Paris since the 80s.
Carol
Bookmarking in anticipation of the photos, that will accompany this very good TR.
Loving the report, Songdoc, thank you! Looking forward to your pictures.
As for the weather...just within the last day or two the "Paris Daily Photo" blogger posted a "sunny" picture and commented on how exceptionally gloomy this winter has been. I lived in Paris for a year in '83-84 and still vividly remember circling a day on the calendar in late January because it was the first time I had seen the sun since flying back from spending Christmas with my family...so when a French winter is described as especially dreary, I believe it! I don't think you're ungrateful at all to mention it, and obviously you made the most of your trip anyway.
Thanks so much for the nice comments!
And now for transportation—and the accident …
We opted for a taxi from the airport because we didn’t want to deal with stairs while dragging along our luggage. When I researched and read trip reports I was really confused about “the RER.” I didn’t understand that it was really no different from taking a Metro.
Ohh … that reminds me to mention that we traveled with carry-on bags only. I take great pride in being able to travel light. This trip included two cities in Northern Ireland (which required bringing some materials for work), followed by a week in Paris—and we managed it with carry-on only. Believe it or not, I didn’t even wear everything I’d packed! Before you think I’m a total pig, we had laundry facilities at our adorable 350-year-old cottage in Ireland (but that’s a different trip report that I haven’t even started yet!).
After my luggage failed to show up in a foreign country many years ago, I learned how very little I really need when I travel. My greatest packing achievement remains going to Rome followed by a cruise of the Greek Isles— (including jacket and ties) with only carry-on!
The only challenge was flying from Belfast to Paris on EasyJet. Each passenger is allowed ONE carry-on item. That meant a roller bag—with no shoulder bag for my computer, books, and medications and toiletries that I like to keep handy. In fact, I’d have to fit the empty shoulder bag into the roller bag. By wearing two sweaters (that I removed on the plane) and stuffing the enormous pockets of my travel vest full, I managed it. You probably think I’m nuts, but I hate waiting for luggage to arrive; hate paying baggage fees (that would have cost almost as much as the ticket); and hate risking that my things could be stolen again. Besides, as I said, I need so little when I travel. But I digress …
The first few days we walked so much I thought I’d never see the inside of a Metro or an RER (whatever that was). But there was no way I was going to walk to the Eiffel Tower—or Montmartre, so we braved the Metro & the RER. It couldn’t have been easier.
The ticket machines had a screen in English—and it was no more difficult to navigate than using the NY subway. I was impressed that we never waited more than 2 minutes for a train.
And now for the incident …
After our third or fourth Metro ride I was entering a Metro (with DP behind me) when the door closed on me. (How rude!) I managed to wrestle myself out of its jaws and back onto the platform, but my shoulder bag (with my camera & tour books) was still inside the train! AAGGHH! Now, the door was only open a few inches and I couldn’t get the bag out. I screamed (to the great amusement of those on the train) and a kind passenger pried the doors open just enough for me to pull out my camera bag.
It all happened in a matter of moments, and it took a few minutes for the adrenaline to calm down and the pain to kick in. I bruised some ribs pretty badly. Luckily, it only hurts when I breathe, laugh, cough, walk, and roll over in bed ☹. Crazy!!!
FYI, we had considered taking the RER to CDG, but decided against it because after my scuffle with the Metro there was no way I could drag my roller bag. Good thing … While we waited more than an hour to check in for our AA flight, the man in front of us told us that he had taken the RER, and it had been a nightmare. There’d been a closure on the route to the airport. All passengers were transferred to a shuttle bus that delivered them to another train station.
Well, that concludes my tale. In summation, we saw some extraordinary sights and had some marvelous meals without spending a fortune. Amazing Paris far exceeded my high expectations. I only wish I’d seen it dressed up in better light.
And now for the photos …
Paste in this link and click on “slide show.”
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2QctG7hu0ZMJ-
Enjoy! Merci for reading and for the nice comments!
Lovely pictures. Thanks again for the report as well! Sorry about your ribs!
Songdoc,
.
I've enjoyed your report and we'll be heading out for your pizza recommendation in the next week! Believe me with four months here in Paris we're happy to read any recommendations for reasonable dining, I'll second Kerouac on that.
I saw a woman caught on the Metro yesterday and those doors look vicious, hope you're ribs are feeling better
Nice photos and enjoyed your report. Sorry about the metro doors getting you -- they did look like they could be brutal. Hope you've recovered.
Thanks for sharing your pictures. They are terrific--well edited, interesting, and evocative. And thanks for labeling them. I especially liked the night shots.
What beautiful pictures. Thank you for sharing.
Your photos are absolutely gorgeous! I'm getting excited about returning to Paris! Thanks so much.
Loved the report and the pictures are beautiful. Could you tell me what kind of camera you used?
What wonderful photos and what engaging writing! You are so talented and thanks so much for sharing that talent here.
So sorry for the metro incident! You have sadly experienced one of my phobic fears--that of the subway doors closing when one is either entering or exiting. I am glad to hear that you were not injured more seriously.
Paris is just so wonderful. We were there in October and DH was just blah about the idea of going--it was piggy-backed onto the end of a trip to Florence-- but when we were there, he re-fell in love with it such that I know he will always want to go back.
PS You were not kidding about the "handsome" part! Whether that was you or DP in that one Louvre pic, that was one good-looking fellow!
Those are wonderful photos. I am especially taken with the ones in fog and the mood they evoke.
"Some old building" is the Institut de France, aka Hôtel Mazarin, home of the Académie française. Nice pictures, and the weather makes them more atmospheric.
Really enjoyed the photos.
Denjoying report very much, can't wait for next installment!
Thanks for sharing your lovely photos. I think the weather did you a favor.
Wow! I'm overwhelmed by your comments. Merci beaucoup! And DP (the antiquity in the Louvre!) is most flattered!
The camera:
Nikon PF10
The secret:
Take more than 1,100 photos; try the same shot several times with different settings; mix in some great, atmospheric light and fog--and most important ... share less than 10% of the photos you take!
Thanks for naming the "old building." I hoped someone would identify that.
<saw a woman caught on the Metro yesterday and those doors look vicious>
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one. But they need to design them so that they open when they meet resistance.
socialworker: I'd never heard of a phobia of getting stuck in train doors--but I now have it! My ribs hurt too much to get in and out of my little sports car. Luckily, DP has a less challenging car.
Songdoc, loved your pics, especially the close-up view of the new bells of Notre Dame.
fantastic photos, songdoc! even after getting stuck in that train. Sadly the trains always win in those circumstances and actually, you were quite lucky just to get away with bruised ribs!
Beautiful pictures. Thanks.
What a great T.R.! Mine is so dull. Lol! I'm sorry your weather was so dreary. If you had been there just one week earlier. I like your photography tips.
Great pictures and very readable, enjoyable report. We always stay in the marais so are very familiar with the area you stayed in.
I had a stunningly scary moment in the Paris métro many years ago. Traveling with two little kids, one 2, one 4, holding both of their hands. Daughter, 4, steps onto train car, I'm behind her holding her with my left hand, son, 2, behind me, I'm holding his hand with my right. Door slams onto my left hand. Daughter is in the métro, son and I are not, my arm's in the door! Had it not been for some very quick-thinking, strong Parisians, someone would have died.
Lovely report and photos, Songdoc. Thank you for sharing.
Magnificent photographs Songdoc.
Love the photos of a very sombre Paris with a few rare peeks of blue sky.
Great photos - thank you!
Sorry to hear about the Metro mishap, but glad it was nothing more serious. Here in DC, the conductors regularly announce the fact that the doors do NOT work like elevator doors, i.e. they won't open with resistance.
There is a warning sound when the metro doors will close.
Nice report and pictures. St. Paul village is also my favorite place to stay in Paris. I eat "frugally" also so I could relate to everything and everywhere you went.
<There is a warning sound when the metro doors will close.>
HAHA. If there was one, I either didn't hear it--or didn't recognize what it was.
I'm guessing the warning sound must have been in French
StCirq: I can't even imagine how horrible that must have been!!! Much harder to almost lose a child than a camera!!!
Again, thank you all SO much for the nice comments.
Just curious about your name, if you don't mind my asking. (Feel free to disregard if you want!) I see your postings about trips out of Nashville. Are you a songdoc in the same way that Hollywood has script docs?
<Are you a songdoc in the same way that Hollywood has script docs?>
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Yes. I do surgery on sick songs
I'm also a successful songwriter; write books about how to be a songwriter; and travel to some amazing places to teach others how to write songs.
I do other writing, also.
It's not uncommon for me to teach master classes in 6 or 7 countries in a year. Unfortunately, it only works where they speak English. I like my life
Thanks! What a wonderful career to have!! My son aspires to screen/TV writing and I know how tough such work is to get. Congratulations on your success. We are the lucky beneficiaries here of your interesting writing on your travels.
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but "thanks," socialworker.
Success really can happen. When I was struggling, I worked as a temp in L.A. at the Olympics. My co-worker--also a temp--kept telling me what a big writer he was going to be. He was studying at UCLA. He wrote a little script called ... "Lethal Weapon" and became the highest paid screenwriter in Hollywood! And my brother-in-law's brother wrote "Cool Runnings." When I teach, and in my books, the most important thing I impart is not about the mechanics of writing; it's to pursue your dreams.
Sorry for the temporary digression....but, yes pursuing one's dream is what it's all about.
Now back to Paris!
Love this report. Now psyched for my upcoming quick trip, but somewhat intimidated by your extraordinary photos. And...I think we know some of the same people in the real world.
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I grew up in NYC and you actually experienced my mom's worst nightmare: bag caught in subway door. She always made sure we carried emergency cash in our socks ($2, which did double duty as insurance against muggers) in case the unthinkable happened.
Also, my husband is a fellow carry-on nazi (see my trip reports), but even he would have been challenged by the EasyJet "no personal item" rule - Major congrats are in order.
Your photos are really stunning and no. 2 of Le Marais does indeed look like a painting. But it's impossible to choose a favorite they are all so good. Many thanks for your report. I need to go back to Paris soon.
As a judge once said of pedestrians in London, you could say of people getting in and out of trains on the Paris metro - there are two sorts, the quick and the dead. (The warning sound is a beep or blare, but you've only about two or three seconds once it goes).
I loved, loved your pictures. As others have mentioned, the Some old Building, the Antiquities, and the nipple pinching made me laugh. Our first trip to Paris coming up in the fall, and will use your warning about the Metro doors!!
songdoc, you have imparted deep wisdom on the photophiles.
My daughter is a camera bug and on our first trip to Europe, she took over 500 photos on the first day! Wisely, she weeded out duplicates and bad shots in the evenings. So, by the time we got home 2 weeks later, she really only had about 350 photos. And posted only 100 to her Shutterfly share (we were in Paris, Venice, Rome and Florence). I thought that was pretty good.
I love your pics of Paris. So romantic and so Paris! (Sorry about your ribs. I have never had a fight with metro doors, but did successfully get tangled up on Rome's cobblestones and ended up looking like Greg Kinnear in "As Good As It Gets". Oy!) Certainly, looking at these fab pics should help you feel better soon!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks songdoc - loved your report and about to look at the photos.
Our family stayed in the Marais for a week in December - it was a wonderful area and terrific access to others. The boulangerie and fromagerie in the St Paul area are terrific; we had fabulous pizza from a Jewish pizzashop in one of the side street one night; the antique shops in the Village St Paul the source of some decorator treasures; and the Place de Vosges eye-wateringly beautiful.
Thanks again - great memories. Now - the photos...
Great photos!
share less than 10% of the photos you take!
I wish I could be as disciplined.
Song, wonderful report and pictures! Thanks for sharing, I am ready to go now
Songdoc , very nice report and photos. Thank you. Taylor Swift needs your help, and a voice coach.
Wonderful report; helpful info (and warnings!); gorgeous photos--you and your Nikon did capture the unique light for your trip, so kudos.
We are headed to our first trip to France in June, so reading and planning.
A question--did you take a taxi back TO CDG, too? You said you didn't use Metro, and took taxi upon arrival, so I'm assuming you did? We will have to leave our hotel near the Eiffel Tower about 4 am or so for very early flight, so public transport isn't an option and the majority seem to recommend a taxi over a car service. (We have used justairports in London so happily, but similar car services in Paris don't seem to be a better value or get better reviews than taxis.) So would you also recommend a taxi from hotel to CDG?
Sorry for jumping in here.......We were just in Paris in October. Your hotel will arrange this for you, tbw, if you want. We find this to be a non-stressful way of getting to the airport. Not sure if it is any cheaper, but definitely no more expensive--we were quoted a fixed rate--but the ease of it is such a weight off of your mind, if like me, you worry about getting there on time. We had the opposite issue.....we were going at mid-day and so the fixed rate was good because heavy traffic would have driven a metered fare off the charts!
Thanks socialworker; hotel did seem to indicate they'd do this; just good to get Fodor feedback!
Agreeing with socialworker. We would have taken the train back to the airport--but my sore ribs made it impossible for me to carry luggage. So we opted for a taxi.
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The super-nice desk clerk suggested he book the taxi for us a couple of days in advance, as it would be a very busy time. Our leaving coincided with the end of Fashion Week, and the beginning of a holiday in Paris.
<Taylor Swift needs your help, and a voice coach.>
I don't know about that. She seems to doing just fine without my help
<we had fabulous pizza from a Jewish pizzashop in one of the side street one night>
I saw a sign for Kosher Pizza--and didn't know there was such a thing. Now, I wish I'd tried it. But Pizza MoMo was excellent.
Again, thank you all SO much for the nice comments. I'm overwhelmed!!!
I'm looking at news reports of 4.5 inches of snow in Paris--and CDG being closed for snow removal. AGGGHHH.
Hmmm ... maybe my weather wasn't so bad!
PS. My ribs are finally starting to get better!
I know I can't believe all the snow Paris got. Glad your ribs are getting better--what a bizarre accident to have happend to you
Great pics Songdoc...you are killing me..Kauai and Paris, my 2 favorites!
Thanks, gmac! Two different kinds of paradise ...
Enjoyed your trip report and pic's....