I am looking forward to reading more.

Preparation was the key.
This required some effort but it was worth the effort.
Hope this report is of benefit to others who wonder if they can do it.

• Air travel – booked flights from Australia to arrive in Rome early afternoon via Dubai. Hotel room should be ready by then so could have access immediately. Booked aisle seats so could get out of my seat easily and walk around.
• Started learning Italian
• All hotel accommodations prebooked with options to cancel without penalty with reasonable notice if necessary. All with a spacious room, elevators, no low furniture, a good bed, a safe, a good full breakfast, a shower which could be stepped into easily, a location close to public transport. Not a risky location – I would appear vulnerable.
• Used Google etc to look at cities/towns and locations of hotels and sights etc. Also studied layout of train stations where possible.
• Two small pieces of two wheel rolling luggage. This allowed for forwarding one piece and taking a roller/backpack for side excursions. I needed to keep medications etc with me.
• Train tickets with seat reservations which I pre-booked first class on line through Trenitalia. No queuing for tickets (time wasting and painful), more comfortable seating and space for luggage between seats. Also there would be no-one to mind my luggage while I was buying tickets. I was lucky enough to score many mini-fares.
• A means of managing laundry at minimum expense and no hiking back and forth to laundromats. This involved flexible coated wire hangers and balloons (don’t laugh!, hotel staff probably did). This would be difficult for a family or even a couple . Travelling on your own does reduce the laundry load.
• Booked a driver from airport to hotel on arrival. No queuing at the airport after an exhausting flight from Australia for taxi/train/bus. I was not sure how well I would have travelled.
• Purchased a money belt and didn’t allow people to see/know I had one. Wore it under my clothes. Organised cash for the day before leaving hotel room. Had backup ATM/Credit cards.
• Took adequate local currency cash with me for a few days. Allowed time for me to locate a safe ATM for withdrawals.
• Took eReader and MP3 Music – might need some entertainment if I have a bad day and find myself bound to the hotel room
• Brief sightseeing notes for each location etc on my eReader (no problem reading mine in sunlight). What’s there to see, where is it, what were my priorities etc. No heavy guide books to carry. No iPad to lug about or worry about.
• Took a smartphone but turned off all internet services. I’m on holiday. Occasional use of internet cafes for emails.
• Took a digital camera
• Organised Txtlink on my mobile so could check my bank balances simply by texting a code. Balance came back as text immediately.
• Instead of my walking stick I took my walking stick/seat. A walking stick which folds out to a narrow canvas seat which enabled me to sit very comfortably anywhere I needed/chose to. I could have sold this for a million euros many times over such was the interest in it. I actually started guarding it with my life in case someone ran away with it!
• Purchased a smallish Hedgren over shoulder bag. Held everything I needed during the day out and about and camouflaged my security money belt
• My remaining major concern was how was I going to get on and off those trains with stairs with my luggage? I had learned that there was a service in Italy for forwarding luggage and also for assistance on and off trains. In Switzerland there was a service which forwarded luggage between rail stations. But I had been unable to organize anything with these services prior to leaving Australia. This was my Leap of Faith – go regardless!!!
• As an afterthought just before leaving, I packed my Disability Parking Permit. What a life saver! More on that later.
• I also took one of my banks Travel Cards loaded with Euros – to save some bank fees

A friend took me to the airport on Sunday 6 May.
The adventure begins!!

At the airport
My friend holds my luggage whilst I establish whether I am able to take my walking/stick seat and TENS machine (back recovery device) into the cabin. I was very reluctant to be parted from my walking/stick seat and TENs. Permission was granted.

The airport staff decided that I required assistance with boarding etc. The staff member said he was not sure where the plane would be landing in Dubai – he was right about that. It meant that I was taken to a special area and assisted to board. One of my fellow passengers was severely disabled and wheelchair bound. His condition humbled me. Isn’t it wonderful that assistance is available for such people to travel?

The flight was comfortable enough. Good company. A man from Australia who years ago was living in England and had met his English wife when both of them on holiday in Spain. They married later. Perhaps I should go to Spain?

We landed in Dubai away from the terminal. Passengers were required to walk down the stairs to leave the plane. Not me though. I travelled from plane to ground via a mobile lift. Then I was transported in disabled bus, golf carts and wheelchairs for a long time. The staff was wonderful. I had been through Dubai airport in 2007. It was large then but even larger now. Once again I was assisted to board.

I had interesting company on flight Dubai to Rome. I sat between a young Italian lady returning to Sicily from Japan where she had been employed in wine marketing and a young man secreting bottle after bottle of Emirates wine in a bag. Emirates staff looked puzzled about the volume of wine he was “consuming”.

We land in Rome. Once again I am assisted off the plane. My wonderful Italian assistant collects my luggage and finds my driver. I was wheeled out a special side exit. No queue, no waiting, nothing. What still puzzles me is that I entered Italy with no one asking for or looking at my passport or luggage. My assistant and my driver take me and luggage to the car which was quite a distance away.

When we reach the hotel the driver takes my bags to the foyer, porter takes to room and

I AM IN ROME!!!
How easy was that? I could hardly believe it.
Tomorrow I will go trainspotting to see if I can get on those trains.

Congrats on taking the leap of faith. Looking forward to the details along the way!

So glad that you were able to travel.
Gives me hope for 20 years from now )!

Congrats and looking forward to reading more!!

Yippee!!

ttt my mother traveled all over, blind and with a broken immune system but with back up, sounds like you are doing great.

You are very courageous! What a planner!! I am in awe of everything you took into consideration. I think a lot of folks who have given up travel will be buoyed by your trip report!!

What an inspiration you are! And brave. You're joining my Pantheon of heroines.

I too am in awe. I thought I was a planner but you put me to shame. I am so glad you took your leap of faith and I will be reading right along enjoying all your adventures.

I have some mobility issues myself, and I in awe of you as are all the others who have commented above!

I have a few specific questions.

Can you please tell us the name of your walking-stick/chair and where one might purchase it?

How and when did you make arrangements for aid in deplaning and getting to the spot in Rome where your driver met you?

Many hotels advertise their rooms as having either a bathtub or shower. How did you know that yours would have a shower? And how did you keep from slipping in Italian hotel showers, many of which have slippery tile floors?

And finally - what the heck did you do with those balloons?

Yes, definitely you are an inspiration. Your post proves obstacles are just minor glitches on the road. Looking forward to the rest of your sojourn.

For tom18,

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=walking+stick+converts+to+seat

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=inflatable+clothing+hangers

http://www.amazon.com/Safe-er--Grip-shower-Handle-17-Inches/dp/B000S8O9ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354324873&sr=8-1&keywords=temporary+shower+security+bars

My dad took the security bar with him when he traveled, but not every shower surface would accommodate the suction cups. You need to avoid grout lines, so time dimensions have to be just right. Don't forget to take it with you when you leave!

Joining your journey . . .

Thanks followers.
In answer to questions:
Walking stick/seat:
My Dad had one which is what motivated me to look for one
Is a Coopers Countryman folding seat. http://www.surreymobility.com/daily-living-aids/seating/coopers-countryman-folding-seat/1455.

I purchased in Australia before my Total Knee Replacement through Comfort Discovered in New South Wales. They posted to Western Australia. www.comfortdiscovered.com.au

A UK product distributed by Sunrise Medical in Midlands.
It functions as a walking stick (the length suits my height), is light to carry, kind on the hands, leans on things (eg your leg) without falling which frees both hands to get your money, ticket out etc. Mine is a medium. The handles also allow you to push yourself to a standing position.
There are various other branded tripod seats available but I have found this one the best for me. I feel very stable on this.

Deplaning: Thanks for that word. I was rather stuck on what to call it. Disembarking and deboarding didn't sound right. The arrangements were made at my departure airport in Australia where I was assisted to board. So when we landed at Dubai, Rome etc those of us with arranged assistance waited for all others to leave the plane. We were on the books so we were expected, fetched and into a wheelchair.
Linking up with driver: The Rome airport assistant took me to the area where drivers were waiting with their signs with passenger names. From memory I showed my assistant the booking I had, he showed it to someone with more English and the message got through.

Showers in hotel rooms: I checked out hotels and photos of their rooms, bathroom access, furniture etc on-line. I read some reports from previous travellers. I chose good three star hotels, not chain hotels. When making enquiries for booking I made it clear that I had some mobility issues and that I needed a shower I could step into easily with room to move. My hotels turned out to be much better than I expected - in fact I could not have asked for more. If I had come across danger of slipping I would have put a towel FLAT on the floor. I always had plenty of towels to spare because I was alone in double rooms.

The Balloons:!! I have a feeling I read this tip somewhere on Fodor's.Some people use inflatable hangers with some success. The motivation is to separate the layers of the clothing to speed up drying. Also supports the weight of wet clothes. So I took balloons and balloon tags (my hands don't allow me to tie up balloons). Hang clothes on wire hangers, hang in bathroom (twist the top of the hanger if necessary), shove a balloon up or down shirts and trousers etc. They dry faster. As long as you are not wetting carpet etc and leaving the bathroom clean and safe no one seemed to mind. I would love to be able to tie balloons into balloon art so that I could provide more entertainment to hotel staff on my next trip!

Next I shall tell my Rome story - more pleasant surprises.

Rome
First night in Rome
My hotel room is perfect for my needs. Very good bathroom complete with bidet. Luggage has been placed up on waist high shelf. Good cupboard space with safe, television. Great bed. Desk and chair. Window to open and look out and down to street and Opera House.

I go for a stroll to get the lay of the land. Restaurants within 20 metres. Discovered small internet café around the corner, tabacchi to buy bus tickets etc, coffee shop with snacks, fruit stall on the corner and grass and trees/shrubbery outside the Opera house. I’m amused by the traffic, horn honking and the parking. Smart cars are definitely the way to go! I’m looking forward to my 10 days in Rome.

I had tickets for Galleria Borghese for the day after tomorrow so tomorrow is trainspotting day and how to get around Rome. I had a good dinner in the company of two ladies from Ireland and England. I score ice from the hotel which I use to settle down the swelling in my “new knee” and have a perfect sleep.

Next morning
My hotel has thoughtfully put me in a room on the same floor but far enough from the breakfast room. Breakfast is wonderful. Everything you could possibly wish for. In fact these breakfasts were so good that I did not wish to eat again until mid afternoon. I must tell you there is an advantage to this. The crowds are always smaller when everyone else is eating lunch eg bus tours.

Time for trainspotting! I set off for Rome Termini rail station which is within walking distance. I study the platforms, the hawkers, the opportunists, the desperate, THE TRAINS, buy a Rome map, find an elevator to access shopping and metro under the station, purchase a Roma Pass. I observed the poor people checking the ticket machines to see if any change has been left behind. I observed the people attempting to “assist” newbies at ticket machines. It was all as I expected it to be because of my research on Fodor’s, Seat 61 etc.

Added entertainment was provided by the tackling of a man on a train by some officials who was then handcuffed to a pole. Later I realized this was the Leonardo di Vinci train so perhaps he was trying to leave the country. Then there was the injured policeman who left in an ambulance from the side of the station. None of this alarmed me.

I then looked for the Sale Blu office which provides assistance to the disabled. The language barrier was a problem. I showed them my pre-booked tickets and that Disability Parking Permit. The Sale Blu staff were wonderful and booked my assistance for boarding/deboarding trains for Naples, Florence, Padua later in my trip. This was an enormous relief since my travel depended on my being able to board and deboard trains. I’m overjoyed. I’m having a great day! It gets better.

It’s time for me to find out how to get to Galleria Borghese tomorrow morning. I inquire at the tourist kiosk out the front of the station. I find out which bus to catch from where and get two tickets. In an earlier life I would have enjoyed a walk out there and back.

Then the lovely young Italian lady enquires whether I’m 65 or older. I’m not. She’s eyeing off my walking/stick seat. I show her my Disabled Parking Permit. Well, would you believe it … she says I get free travel on most Hop on/off sightseeing buses!!! She takes me across the road to one of the buses and shows me the bus, tells me to show my permit, introduces me to the conducter. I still have no jetlag so I decide to go. I go up the top and go around twice – my legs needed a rest and it was a good orientation to Rome. I had intended to use one of these buses as an orientation but did not expect to get it free of charge.

I cannot begin to tell you what a difference this mode of travel made to my stay in Rome. I used these buses without going up top again. There is a disabled seating area adjacent to the middle door. The view at traffic and street level is very entertaining! It’s especially amusing in peak hour traffic. The various bus groups have slightly different routes which increases options for getting closer to places of interest. The audio tours also vary in quality and emphasis as regards information. Note: Green lines and that brightly decorated City Sightseeing bus group do not provide free travel to aged or disabled.

More later!

The next day I’m off to Galleria/Villa Borghese. If I had my time again I would not board a bus in peak hour as it meant standing up on a very crowded bus. On the other hand the press of bodies kept me upright but I could not see where I was going! I enlisted the assistance of a younger Italian lady and she was able to tell me when I reached the appropriate stop.

The tickets for the Galleria are good for only two hours. I had read that many able bodied people found two hours insufficient so I had booked two tickets with two hours between them. This was perfect for me. The staff took me up in an elevator. After two hours, I bought a takeaway lunch and went out into the parkland for rest and relaxation. Very peaceful and restorative. In fact I believe this would be a perfect place to go if you are in Rome and need to reconnect with nature. Then I went back into the villa for a further two hours. It was a fabulous exhibition and a wonderful day.

Rome was a perfect place to satisfy my interest in art, architecture, history etc. I had a Roma Pass which entitled me to free/reduced entry to many places I was interested in. It was no longer needed for travel since I now had a preferred mode of travel. Yes it takes longer to get from A to B on Hop on/off but that can be an interesting good thing when your body is flagging.

Of note to those with a mobility issue:
I had not expected to achieve much at the Colesseum but I wandered in there anyway. I discovered an elevator down the far end at the Colosseum for the exclusive use of the disabled.

Luck at the Colesseum:
As I waited for the lift to descend some other people arrived. Many of whom did not appear disabled but I assumed were friends/family of the disabled. Up we went. A young lady produced a key, waved it in the air, led us around and let us in this locked gate. She held my water bottle whilst I climbed the stairs. We were right up the top as far as you could go at the Colosseum. After we went back down I realized this had been a case of mistaken identity. This was a special paid for tour. She had assumed I was part of the group. I had assumed she was caring for the disabled. I had jagged a special tour quite unintentionally!

I had a wonderful time in Rome. I achieved value for my Roma Pass even though I was already getting free transport. My days were filled with art, sculpture, architecture, people watching, many incidental weddings (including an Orthodox wedding in the church near Trevi Fountain), scoffing wonderful coffee, having wonderful dinners with people from all over the world. Though I was invited to join people going to Trastevere etc at night, I declined because I needed to recover from my day in order to manage the next day.

I won’t bore my readers with the details of everything I saw during my stay in Rome. I shall list the sites I managed to visit and enjoy for the benefit of those who have mobility issues.

Galleria Borghese, Colesseum, Circus Maximum (from above), Capitoline Museums, Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Spagna, Vatican Museum, St Peter’s Bascilica, Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano, Museo della Civilta Romana, Galleria Doris Pamphilj, Palazzo Barberini, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, The Cimitero dei Cappuccini.
Least favourite – Trevi fountain and Piazza di Spagna.

It’s time to move on from Rome. I’m off to Naples.

Great attitude. Thanks for sharing.

I leave Rome for Naples. I will be in Naples for a few days.
As I am writing these notes I am feeling very nostalgic for Italy. I had already fallen in love with the Italians and their love of life.

Today is the day I discover if my plans to travel by train prove to be successful. I use a taxi from the hotel to Roma Termini. Here I am outside Roma Termini with my luggage. The problem is I need to get to Sale Blu office and I have two pieces of wheeled luggage and only two hands. This means that I strap my walking stick/seat to my body and make my way to Sale Blu office. By the time I arrive I’m exhausted because I have not had the assistance of my walking/stick seat. I’m also irritated with myself because I had the means of preventing this. Don’t laugh or cry when I say it involves my deceased dog’s collar which I had packed. All I needed to do was use it to attach my smaller rolling backpack to my larger small roller and use my other hand for my walking stick/seat. I rest in Sale Blu office and I’m delivered to the platform and onto the train with my luggage. The staff are so kind and organized. I’m on my way to Naples and I feel like I’m being accompanied by my beloved dog! The train is so comfortable and so fast. I had wonderful conversation with Americans on their way to a wedding in Naples.

When I arrive in Naples I am collected from my carriage with my luggage. My assistant takes me to the head of the taxi queue. A ferocious outcry erupts from the queue and the taxi drivers directed at my poor assistant. I indicate that I am holding a position in the queue behind the last person in the existing queue and then I stare vaguely off into the distance. The outcry subsides with some residual dark muttering. When the queue reaches my turn I have a taxi and am transported at dizzying speed up narrow streets/lanes with loud blaring of horn and curses from the taxi driver. At first it was terrifying, then I decided he knew what he was doing, besides … que sera sera. Also the scenery flashing by helps to take my mind off the situation.

I have just proven that I can travel between major centres with assistance by train and taxi!!

My hotel room is wonderful and the breakfasts are fantastic. This hotel has an outdoor pool set in almost tropical surroundings. It’s like an oasis in Naples. An absolute bonus is that there is a wine, cheese and jazz night beside the pool which hotel guests are welcome to attend. The entertainment is provided by music and singing students from the university which means there are many young people in the audience. I’m impressed by the stylish dressing of the young women and men and the entertainment was wonderful.

I am using buses to explore Naples and to connect with the art I wish to see. The locals on the buses volunteer assistance by asking where I’m from, where I want to go and advising me when to get off.

Although Amalfi Coast is tempting I err on the side of caution since it seems it would be difficult for me to manage. SITA buses may present a problem and I know no one to share private driver expenses with. I also suspect I would prefer to view it from the sea.

Naples is obviously more financially strained than Rome. It’s not a clean, tidy city but it appears to have a strong, beating friendly heart.

I started having some problems with swollen legs in Rome. I was recovering them at night with TED stockings. I needed some socks that catered for the swelling during the day. I discovered in Naples that even male Italian feet are not as broad as my feet! Beautiful quality socks but not for me. I mention this because, if you have feet similar to mine, do not expect to find shoes or socks to suit you in Italy. Later during my travels I discovered that Switzerland catered to my feet.

Whilst in Naples the outside of a school in Brindisi in southern Italy was bombed, killing a 16 year old schoolgirl. The rumour was that this was mafia action since the school was named after a slain anti-mafia prosecutor. There was also a damaging and fatal earthquake near Bologna in northern Italy.

I’m off to Florence!!

Thanks for the detailed answers and links to the questions. Looking forward to the rest of your report!

Bookmarking by one of an age where this information may be very useful. Great read, too!

Very interesting. Will you share hotel names? Thanks.

I'm really enjoying your report. I think you are a brave, honest and very organized woman!

2012moving, really enjoying your experience - you have a great spirit and writing style. Looking forward to more...

Thanks for feedback. Since this is being written from the perspective of the "mobility challenged" I wondered how much interest it may engender. My motivation is that if it helps just one person to travel, that will be a good outcome.

In answer to question about hotels - I will provide these when I finish this Italy saga.

Hints:
I had printed all my tickets for travel within Italy from emails received from Trenitalia when I booked my tickets online in Australia (1st class on Frecciarossa, Frecciargento and Frecciabianca trains). I ensured I had a second copy of them in my luggage since these were precious. These tickets include an allocated seat number. It’s your seat! I was travelling very comfortably. Also since I was travelling out of peak times, I had been able to score many cheaper MINI fares which reduced expenses.

I should point out that if you are using the assistance service you need to present yourself about an hour ahead of train departure. If you’re like me, that’s not a burden as it gives you an opportunity to recover from organising yourself to get there. It’s also an opportunity to review your notes and map for your destination. Sometimes I used this time to organise the assistance for the next leg of my train travel. On one occasion I attached my luggage to the seat in the waiting room (with a bicycle cable) and fetched a takeway lunch and drink for the journey. If you still have time to spare you can always amuse yourself with eReader, music, people watching or trainspotting.

When you arrive at your destination you and your luggage are escorted into a taxi if that is your wish. It’s a good idea when you arrive at your destination station to enquire the whereabouts of their assistance office so that you know exactly where to go when you return by taxi. If you’re like me every step in your day counts so efficiency is the key. However, you need some Italian language skills so that your question is understood. Otherwise you may be taken to the office rather than to the taxi.

So, I’m leaving Naples for Florence
Once again it’s a taxi to the rail station but this time I make my way to the office for assistance with my luggage joined with my dog’s collar. This means I arrive in a much better condition. Once again a wonderful train journey to Florence and of course I pass through Rome Termini on the way. I reflect that Rome Termini is now so familiar to me.

I love train travel because it provides a trouble free environment with an opportunity to absorb the landscape, the agriculture, the homes and way of life of the population whilst I have a comfortable rest. Not something you can do when you are driving or navigating.

My hotel is very close (steps away) to Ponte Vecchio and close to Uffizi and Accademia. The hotel has stairs up to the first floor but it is not a problem as my luggage is collected from street level and taken to my room (there was a button to press). Once again very comfortable accommodation.

This hotel has a roof garden with tables, chairs, great views, and drinks delivered (stairs to this but manageable). A lounge area with a bar and a breakfast room. Breakfasts were very good. You can breakfast on the roof if you wish. The domestic staff members are mostly female Asian with broad smiles and dressed in black with white aprons and caps. The office is extremely helpful also.

There were many American guests here. Actually there appeared to be many Americans in Florence. I reached the conclusion that this was a “flow over” from the penultimate regatta in the inaugural World Series America’s Cup which had been held in Venice.

Florence is very negotiable on foot. The climb to the top of the Boboli Gardens was not something I opted for. If you climb a little way and then go into the left you can make your way around to a high grassed area with wonderful views.

There is also a bus service with a bus stop for one of the routes (lines) a few steps away. Using this you could link with other routes to get around. I had pre-purchased a Firenze Card which I collected when I visited Uffizi Gallery. I was let in the side entrance of the Duoma (Santa Maria del Fiore) which meant no queuing and placed me directly underneath the dome. Other visitors were behind a barrier further back. Naturally I was not climbing to the top.

Apart from the usual things to visit in Florence I enjoyed Museo Storica/Orto Botanica (Botanical gardens and dinosaurs etc) and Museo Galileo (Institute and Museum of the History of Science). A couple of evenings I caught a bus up to Fiesole (Etruscan city lying on a hill just 3 kilometers away) and enjoyed my food and wine with a panoramic view over Florence. There was always entertainment of all sorts to be had on the Ponte Vecchio nearby. Or you could gaze at gold jewellery.

Hint: If you take a small folding umbrella you can put this in a bag and tie it to you walking/stick seat. Especially useful is a narrow umbrella plastic bag which you can obtain at the entry to a department store in Florence (they are trying to keep things dry in the store). When light intermittent rain commenced in Florence the hawkers were suddenly able to switch from hats to umbrellas.

After a wonderful time in Florence I’m off to Padua.
Hotel staff deliver my luggage to the street.
Taxi, dog collar and assistance

Thank you for your wonderfully entertaining and informative report! Looking forward to more...

A great train ride to Padua.
Why did I choose Padua?
I was motivated by two things. I had thought that Rome, Naples and Florence would be busy and bustling and I may be in need of some quieter space. I was right. Also since I’m allergic to mould which leads to sinus infections I was happy to visit Venice but had no wish to stay in Venice. Venice also looked like hard work in terms of access across the canals. I planned to commute to Venice from Padua. This proved to be a very good choice.

With assistance boarding, deboarding I arrived at my hotel in Padua. I had debated whether to stay close to the station or not since I was only here for 4 nights, 3 full days but some reports made me slightly nervous about this option. There’s a saying in Australia that goes something like: “if you are camping in crocodile country, move on the third morning because hungry crocs have been monitoring your habits for the past two days”. I’m not saying Padua rail station is a problem – but remember I’m on my own and I have more travelling to do! I applied the same principle in Naples – not staying close to the station.

The hotel is well situated and clean, comfortable and with close access to a bus to the station which worked well for me. The breakfasts are not as high quality as elsewhere but perfectly adequate. Actually breakfast would be fine if it wasn’t for the cold, “gone green”, boiled eggs. There is also free access to internet on a laptop.

There is a quiet, friendly square outside served by a couple of bars with very friendly staff where you can relax with other guests and entertain each other with your day’s events. Also there’s a Tabacchi to buy your bus tickets from. Padua is a lovely place to be and very negotiable on foot. It is beautifully quiet and clean with minimal harassment in the town itself. There’s plenty to see in Padua and it’s a place I would be happy to return to. If you are into shopping you could do it peacefully in Padua. I really enjoyed the enormous fruit and vegetable market since I come from a pineapple farming background and I was very interested in where all this produce was grown or imported from. Great discussions with the vendors over the produce and they were delighted with my interest. Could hardly stagger home with the few fruit freebies I accepted from them. It was not my aim to score freebies but I had no wish to offend their generosity of spirit. The secret was to eat some on the way which at least centralised the weight – less drag on the walking stick/seat. You’ve got to laugh at life.

I spend my first day in Padua wandering about and reading “Angels and Demons” under any lovely shady tree I fancy or at a table scoffing coffee, nutritious food and plenty of the not nutritious but very satisfying stuff one simply cannot resist. Have a great day.

So Padua is also used as a base to visit Venice. It’s a quick trip on the train to Venice and because I have snagged MINI fares costs me only 9E each way. This cost is more than compensated for by my cheaper accommodation and the quiet relaxation at the end of the day in Padua. Hope everybody does not now start staying in Padua and ruin the peace and quiet!!

So the next day I make my way by bus to Padua station. I’m on the platform comfortably seated on my walking stick/seat whilst others are standing because there are no seats left. The train is running late and there are numerous freight trains passing through rocking the platform. Anyway my train arrives, I then arrive at Venice SL, buy a 24hr Vaporetto ticket, set off down the canal and on to the art I want to view. Probably the best way to describe it is that I am on the right hand side of the canal this day. I enjoy a wonderful lunch at “The Corner Pub” with the locals this day. This was after being rejected by a waiter at another place because there was only one of me! Not enough income from a table with just one person. This is the only occasion this happened to me. I see this as his loss, not mine.

Arriving back at Padua I settle outside in the square for my evening get together with a couple from the hotel. Guess what! It was not the freight trains rocking and rolling the platform this morning, it was that second earthquake. I’m told I missed all the excitement in the hotel as the other guests were having their breakfast. Evacuation was the order of the day. It does explain why that train was late. Unfortunately this earthquake caused more devastation and fatalities in an area in Italy than the one that had occurred whilst I was in Naples. Apparently it was felt in Venice, Milan and all the way to Austria. Padua was fine.

The next day I’m back in Venice using the same ticket down the canal since I’m within 24 hrs. Today I’m on the left hand side of the canal. Plenty of time for morning tea and exploring as the queue is huge for San Marco. As I suspected would be the case, the queue for San Marco is much smaller at lunch time. I join a short queue and in I go. A word of warning, the floor is lumpy in here so don’t trip up.
Hint: If the crowds and/or heat get too much for you, head to the garden/park out of the square and around to the right. Remember if you have a walking stick/seat, you can sit anywhere in here. Good spot for a picnic lunch if you can carry one.

I’m amused at the dove/pigeon sitting on a nest on a portico on the side of the square, above the heads of hundreds of oblivious passing people. Wonder how many people were anointed outside San Marco? Had a great lunch down one of the side alleys near San Marco. I decide not to buy another Vap ticket for the trip back to the station. I spend the rest of my day meandering my way back slowly exploring, eating, imbibing as I go.

It’s a sorry sight watching people arrive in Venice with huge luggage, finding themselves faced with getting this to the other side of the canal. The looks that pass between couples speak volumes.

When I arrive back at Padua station I print my ticket for Milan (using code into machine) to go through to Brig in Switzerland. This had been booked and paid for online through Trenitalia but because it is an international ticket it can only be printed in Italy. It made sense to me to do this in a quiet station like Padua rather than in Milan when I arrive there. I could have printed it in Rome, Florence or Naples but I decided to wait until Padua. It reduced the risk of losing it and there would be less queuing at machines or ticket desks.

Life is about to get very interesting because I am about to increase the height of my Leap of Faith – I’m off to Bergamo tomorrow! Bergamo is serviced by regional trains so these trains are quite different from the ones for which I have had assistance. So it’s a train to Brescia, then change to a regional train.

This means I also purchase a ticket for Brescia to Bergamo through a machine. It was not possible to purchase this ticket before I left Australia because the date was too far in advance to do so. What is the challenge? Assistance is not available at all stations in Italy and I’m reasonably sure this will apply at Bergamo. I had considered travelling from Padua to Milan, leaving my larger small roller in luggage storage and then travelling Milan to Bergamo. I could then retrieve my luggage when I arrived back in Milan to go onto Switzerland. But in the end I have taken the chance that somehow I will survive the day.

On with the challenge!
As it turned out, I had a very interesting day ahead of me.

I am so impressed. You are giving me renewed vigor to keep on traveling. Many thanks. I will go back and read more carefully tomorrow.

Hi, beautifully written report and quite a helpful reference for other travelers to Italy with mobiity challenges.

The bombing in Brindisi was later determined to have no association with organized crime. Apparently a deranged individual.

What was the name of your hotel in Naples?

Impressive! I think you notice a lot more when you travel by yourself.

I am enjoying your report! You have the perfect spirit of adventure for travel. I will use some of your information when we travel to Italy in 2013.

Why did I choose to go to Bergamo?
In my hunt for art during my research for my trip I came across Accademia Carrara in Bergamo. I then discovered that it was closed for renovation until the end of 2012. Then I discovered that our capital city in Oz was hosting an exhibition of works from Accademia Carrara. I flew across Australia to this exhibition partly in order to see the art and also as a practice run with walking stick/seat and luggage etc for my planned trip to Europe. In the meantime I had become keen on visiting Bergamo in any case for its other attractions and also as an opportunity to test if I could manage travel to destinations that were serviced only by regional trains.

I was assisted onto the train at Padua and assistance was organised for the change at Brescia. I had taken note of the arrival time of the train in Brescia and the next suitable connection to Bergamo. I had texted my hostess at the B&B in Bergamo for collection from the station. On the train I’m relaxed (courtesy of Padua!), chatting with a couple who said the next station was Brescia. The train slowed earlier than I expected and I heard no station announcement. I panicked as I still had my eReader open etc and was not organised to deboard.

Whist I’m organising my stuff, people spring into action and get my luggage to the carriage entry. I didn’t have time to tell them that I would be collected from the carriage. No assistance arrives so others get my luggage to the platform. A shouted discussion ensues between the driver and the conductor with the final words being “Non marito”. I knew (as will those readers who understand Italain) that this translates to “No husband”!!! Here I am with walking stick/seat and luggage waiting for the train to leave the platform. I can see the roof of the station building above the train roof and also that there are stairs down to a tunnel which present a problem. I’m having a silent chuckle to myself about the thoughts that may be going through the minds of Italian passengers in the carriages as they pass by this woman with “Non marito”.

The train leaves and I’m not at Brescia! I’ve deboarded at Desenzano Del Garda-Sirmione which is the station before Brescia! There’s no sign of activity at the station building. I’m weighing up the option of attaching my luggage to a seat, going down stairs, up stairs etc to get a ticket to get to Brescia and alerting Brescia that I will be on the next train. I’m uneasy because there are only two other people on the platform and (rightly or wrongly) I’m viewing them as potentially undesirables.

I contemplate opening the sealed envelope that my friend gave me at the airport in Perth - “To be opened in an emergency”. I decide this is still only a glitch. A young couple comes up the stairs and they are from Ireland. They are catching the next train to Milan. Yes, with their assistance, I did ride the next train for about 15 minutes to Brescia. I was prepared to pay any fine I may incur since I had no ticket for this particular train.

At Brescia of course I have no assistance now because I was not on the train I was expected on. Wonderful strangers helped me off the train. A Trenitalia staff member on the platform got my luggage down the steps to the tunnel and apologized because he had to leave me there as he had to catch the train to Milan. What a guy! A young man doubled back at stairs to platform for Bergamo train and helped me up the steps to the platform for Bergamo train. What a guy! I texted my hostess to advise I will be along later.

At Bergamo there are not only stairs down to the tunnel, there are many stairs up to the street. The conductor looked at me and, with a broad grin, abandoned his train and escorted me to the station entrance. What a guy! I suspect he lived in Bergamo.

My B&B hostess drives me to my accommodation and along the way explains Bergamo to me. She is Italian but has very good English skills. I’m staying in Città Alta (upper town) in Bergamo which is on a hill 400m above lower Bergamo and the Lombardian Plain. Bergamo is very pleasant with plenty to see and do. There is a comfortable bus service down to the station and a funicular to the base of the hill. Once down there the terrain is flat. There’s also a funicular to go even higher. I really enjoyed three course meals and wine in the evening at Cooperativa Citta Alta, Il Circolino, Vicolo Sant’Agata 19 (down laneway) which has fed locals for 40 yrs. It has a great outdoor setting with vine cover and wonderful views.

The B&B is very comfortable with breakfast supplied and I had fabulous views as I had a room with a balcony. My only problem was that the first night I nearly fell out of a narrow single bed. I shared a bathroom with a couple of ladies from Norway who were great company. The hostess and the host were wonderful.

I was faced with a few problems. Purchasing a ticket for the train from Bergamo to Milan was a problem because the queues to ticket staff were too long for me and the ticket machines were out of order. It was apparent that the financial situation in Italy was having an impact on staff numbers and maintenance at this station. Also how was I going to get to the station platform to catch a train to Milan since there was no assistance available? I was also attempting to organise assistance for my arrival in Milan but the language barrier on the phone made this impossible.

My hostess came to the rescue. She suggested I could go to the tourist bureau and purchase a 60k kilometric ticket for the train. She phoned and organised my assistance at Milan. I did need to sit in the carriage behind the driver so they could find me since these are regional trains with no seat numbers. My host drove me to the station and took me to the platform. We had a discussion about his olive farm in Tuscany while we waited for the train.

Notes:
You can store luggage at the Tourist Office which is a short distance up the street from the rail station. It’s possible to fly into Bergamo Orio Al Serio airport and catch a bus to Citta Alta in Bergamo (the Norwegians did this). At Bergamo rail station they are in the process of building an elevator (lift) in the tunnel but my helpful host didn’t appear to expect it completed anytime soon (finances). I was not aware that kilometric tickets were available. I thought they had been discontinued years ago.

I was very grateful for the help from strangers but somewhat concerned. I would have hated my luggage to be the final straw for a stranger’s well being. Not that I had heavy luggage but some of these people were already struggling with their own heavy luggage. Also you do need to be cautious as to who you allow to lay hands on your luggage.

I caused my own problems on the Padua to Brescia leg. Too relaxed and then too panicked. I did get to Bergamo, I had a wonderful time and I am on the train to Milan but only with the help from wonderful strangers. It’s not easy for the mobility challenged to venture off the beaten track. But I am so pleased to have experienced Bergamo.

I’m rolling onto Milan.

a tiny mishap does not lessen the adventure. It's nice to be reminded that we live in a world where help is genuinely available and not everyone is WIIFM (what's in it for me).

"It was apparent that the financial situation in Italy was having an impact on staff numbers and maintenance at this station"

I don't think so, the Regionale and out of the way stations have always been a bit on edge. I once watched a man fit a PC to a display unit an Italian station by soldering the cables directly onto the BUS rather than just mate a USB connector. "Perche?" because they had no money for a cable.

You are my new hero!

Why Milan?
Today Milan is simply being used as my entry to Switzerland. This is my 27th day in Italy. I intend to spend 3 weeks in Switzerland before returning to Milan from Tirano. I will spend a few days in Milan and day trip to the Borromean Islands. Then a train from Milan to Rome to fly home on the same day.

I arrive in Milan. Whatever my hostess in B&B in Bergamo said appears to have turned me into a VIP. A wonderful guy collects my luggage into one hand with a beaming smile, offers me his arm and takes me to the waiting room. I have time to spare ahead of the train to Switzerland. I already have my international ticket which I booked and paid for in Oz and printed in Padua. I organise assistance for when I arrive back in Milan from Tirano (regional train) and assistance for train from Milan to Rome for my flight home. Since a kiosk is nearby, I secure my luggage to the seat and I fetch a drink and food for lunch.

I ensure I have my passport at hand in case I need to produce it somewhere – I’m never asked for it. I’m assisted onto train and I’m off to Brig in Switzerland. I am purchasing a Swiss Pass for travel at Brig and then travelling onto my accommodation in Spiez. Tomorrow I’m off to Zurich for the day.

Towards the end of my stay in Switzerland I forward my larger piece of luggage to Tirano rail station (12CHF) and taking my small roller/backpack. I move around in Switzerland (Willem Tell Express, later Palm Express bus) ending with catching the Bernina Express to Tirano.

Six days after forwarding my luggage I collect it at Tirano, and purchase a ticket to Milan. Note: I was aware I needed to do this before the staff went on lunch break. I’m assisted onto the train at Tirano by station staff and they alert the conductor to the fact that I need assistance at Milan. Unfortunately, later, the conductor is in a bad mood because he is having an argument with a young person who is travelling without a ticket. He informs me there will be no assistance. I do not have the language skills to inform him that it has been already booked at Milan. Maybe there is a strike? I decide to err on the side of caution and assume that I will have no assistance. When I arrive in Milan a helpful stranger helps me off the train. It takes some navigation to exit Milan station. I can’t use travelators with luggage in one hand and walking stick/seat in the other hand. I find the lift and the correct exit.

I have chosen a budget hotel with a single room in Milan since I will only be here 3 nights and I am almost home. It’s perfectly adequate to my needs, close to the station and with a good breakfast. I enjoy my breakfasts here with a lady from England. The next day I travel by train to Stresa to visit the Borromean Islands and have a wonderful day. I don’t attempt Isola Bella – it did not appeal and it appeared difficult mobility wise.

I stop off at Isola dei Pescatori for a wander and morning tea served from a house around the back of the island. Traditional life is happening here and I like it. Then onto Isola Madre (greeted at the jetty by an Australian eucalypt!) and there are amazing gardens, wandering peacocks and a display of the puppetry theatre stages and equipment that the Borromean family used. An Australian couple I chat with here say they had been on Isola Bella the day before and there were so many people there they thought the island may sink! He is also desperate for some vegetables to eat.

I return to Isola dei Pescatori for a fabulous lunch and relaxation. I love this island. It’s a speck and a step back in time. That chap should have come here for lunch. Huge serve of fabulous fish and huge helping of wonderful vegetables. I share my vegetables with a “determined to feed himself” toddler at the next table. He can spear these rather than end up flicking spaghetti in frustration. It’s not affecting me but his uncle is not impressed. His mother catches up with me as I queue for the boat to thank me. Turns out she is a local who lives on this island. Not many do. Lucky her!

The next day is rest, pack and organise for trip to Rome and flight home. I resist the urge to bus to Bergamo for the day. I need to be fit for a BIG plane trip.

First, I’m off to the railway station to check I have assistance on trains for trip Milano to Rome. The Tirano experience has made me nervous. This worked really well. He has a computer program which translates. I key in, he keys in and we converse. Yes my booking is already in place for assistance tomorrow.

With this communication device I’m able to recount my difficulty with the Tirano to Milano trip and what the conductor had said. He checks and the booking I had made in Milan on my way to Switzerland for assistance when I arrived in Milan on the Tirano train had been in place and there was no strike. He apologises for Trenitalia. He comes down in the lift with me and organises exactly where I am to present myself the next day to be collected by the assistance people. I admire the railway station. He credits Mussolini. During my days in Milan I had mapped out the most efficient route to get my luggage to the station (with that dog collar). I’m a woman with experience now.

Tonight I’m watching the soccer. I’m becoming a fan because of the European Cup! I’m barracking for the Italians.

Tomorrow I’m off to Rome and Australia.

I’m going home!
I’m collected from downstairs at Milano station and escorted to the waiting room and then onto the train to Roma Termini through Florence. It’s an interesting trip.

When I’m assisted off the train at Rome I go downstairs in the lift and store my luggage as I have plenty of time to get to the airport. I’m deciding between bus, taxi or Leonardo di Vinci train to Fiumicino airport. I like the sound of the train but need to check it out. I watched the Leonardo di Vinci trains to see if I could use one of these to get to Fiumicino Aeroporta to fly home later in the day. It appears that every second train has steps, every other does not. I decide I can handle the ones without steps.

I buy a ticket from ticket machine avoiding the lurking undesirables and “assistants” at ticket machines. This means I do not need to join a very long queue. I have lunch and wander about so that my legs have some exercise. I notice the same homeless people, gypsies etc are there as when I was here last month and they are doing exactly the same things. When I’m ready I collect my luggage, sit myself down on my seat and watch the trains. I wait for a train with steps to come and go, stamp my ticket, sit down again and wait for the next train. Bingo! I’m on and have a seat.

I check in at Fiumicino Aeroporta. I’m wondering if I’m about to be accused of illegal entry since my passport has not been looked at in Italy or Switzerland. Very puzzled looks at my passport which shows no evidence to my eyes of my ever having been anywhere since Austria in 2007. It’s passed to another, they look at each other, shrug their shoulders and give me my passport.

I have been having more difficulty with my back recently. But I am still mobile because for the last 5 days I have been taking a major painkiller I had with me (I only had 6). I organise assistance onto the plane. I’m assisted also in Dubai. I take the last one when we leave Dubai.

Because I have two very large people beside me from Dubai I do not have a comfortable trip. I arrive in Perth and pass straight through customs.

I’m home!

I’ve had a wonderful time and met wonderful people along the way.

I did it my way!

THE NEXT DAY I OPEN THAT ENVELOPE, JUST OUT OF CURIOSITY.
The ones I can put up on line are:

Almost everything I have hurts and what doesn’t hurt doesn’t work
Word of the day: Exhaustipated
Some mornings it’s best to just fill the sink with coffee, dunk your head in it and suck
What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger (that’s an oldy)

AND MY FAVOURITE:
If Plan “A” didn’t work. The alphabet has 25 more letters! Stay cool

The end of my Italy saga
BUT writing this has made me homesick for Italy!
I had a great time in Switzerland too.
Ciao!

Well done, I too love Milan station with all the fascisti decorations, you feel like a dwarf walking up the main stairs.

Lovely!

Why, I feel a little verklempt after reading your final entry. The whole thing was just lovely!

Some people have been asking about the hotels I used – see the list below.
I had read some dire reports on accommodation in Italy and I needed comfortable accommodation in suitable locations. Due to the size of elevators and some steps at entry, I’m not sure these would be suitable for wheelchair bound. These hotels were chosen with my needs in mind. They exceeded my expectations and I travelled comfortably because of them. That’s not to say they would meet everyone’s expectations or ambitions. Be aware these rooms do not include tea/coffee making facilities.

I was in Italy for most of May and then a few days in the last week of June.

Rome – Hotel Selene. Via del Viminale 8 – there are a few stairs at entry - elevator
Naples - Hotel Costantinopoli 104 – there are a few stairs at entry from the garden though there are rooms at garden level.
Florence - Hotel Hermitage – there are stairs up from street level - elevator
Padua - Albergo Verdi,Via Dondi dall’Orologio 7 – flat entry – elevator (need to be able to hold you finger on the elevator button to keep it moving)
Milan - Hotel Amadeus – no stairs to entry – elevator

Now I’m commencing my research on France and Germany. I checked out a TGV on the platform at Bern in Switzerland (still trainspotting).

If it all looks too hard, I can always return to Italy and/or Switzerland.
In the meantime I am continuing my study of Italian and commencing German. I had to look up “verklempt” in the dictionary.

Happy travels to you all.

2012 - thank you for a most interesting and inspiring trip report.

have you another journey planned? can we come with you?

Brava! Great report.

I think you could definitely do this in France. I have only been to German cities, never on a train there, but I suspect given what you accomplished in Italy and Switzerland, a France-Germany journey would be a snap.

2012 - You are perhaps familiar with this information from the German Railway System, but if you are not, here is a link to their website information for mobility impaired travelers.

annhig
It would be asking a lot of someone to travel with with me.

I'm slow. I need sit downs. You learn a lot about the Italian way of life and tourist ways of life whilst sitting. I research and study access points. I study terrain. I take routes that suit me (which is least risky - climb those stairs or walk around?).

I prioritise my activities depending on future non-variable commitments or ambitions. If I do this today will I be able to do such and such tomorrow or the next day? Often the full ramifications don't become apparent until two days later. Do I need to walk to there (even if it's something simple like icecream) or can I save those footsteps and achieve it more easily eg on route to somewhere else?

Since I've caught the bus to this area for such and such, is there something else I want to do in this area and can I manage more today without wrecking myself, or should I come back here an another day? Which is the lesser of the two evils - another commute or more walking today? Is it something I really desire to do? Is it worth it?

I am studying what else is around me at all times as knowledge can save me steps later. If I'm in desperate need of something I don't have, I'm the one who has to fetch it and I may have seen exactly where to obtain it.

It's a focused logistical and pacing exercise to manage chronic pain at a level that keeps me going. It's my view this would be a nightmare for travelling companions. Would certainly try someone's patience.

Having said that there were people who said "You're travelling alone? Lucky you!"

Amazing! You are inspiring 2012moving. Can't wait to read of your next trip.

you are an inspiration, really!

Oops - here's the link.
http://www.bahn.de/i/view/USA/en/services/overview/handicap.shtml

Thanks tom18

The past couple of hours I have been researching Fodors France, Fodors Germany forums and the French trains on "Man from seat61" and www.bahn.de including the information you have provided the link to. I had looked at them earlier in the year but decided to tackle Italy first as I suspected it would be the most challenging.

What astonishes and pleases me is how much immediate sense it all makes since I have already experienced the Trenitalia and SSB sites and services. Was concerned when I thought I read "down stairs" to Paris metro until I realised it was "downstairs"!

Time to decide whether I wish to go to France and/or Germany so my questions on these will appear on those forums.

I would also like to say that I've enjoyed reading your travel report. I've visited the locations that you went to, so I could envision what you were addressing or dealing with.

I really liked to see how you thought through and planned in advance, especially your need to decide where and how to expend your energy. And while our trips are a little more fast-paced, we always include lots of cafe time where we do what you did - just sit and watch life.

Thank you for an excellent thread with loads of practical advice. I have asthma and a bad knee. Can cope with one or the other but if both flair up at the same time, I'm toast.

I need to have better contingency plans. Actually, having any sort of plan would be a start.

Also, thanks for providing hotels, particularly interested in the Florence hotel.

I live in France so if you come this way, hope I can help.

Thank you for this lovely report. You write beautifully and I felt like I was traveling with you. I will join the group here who look forward to your next report!!

You seem to have managed quite nicely. I am glad you had a great trip!

You are amazing ! What a wonderful traveller you are - and such a good writer as well. Truly an admirable attitude you carry with you. Welcome Home. And now you can start planning the next one

Thanks to all for your comments.

I'm currently researching France and Germany but shall temporarily suspend this to write my report on the wonderful time I had in Switzerland. I entered Switzerland from Milan.

Hi, I am wondering if we could at least talk about some travel together, but I don't know how to message you directly. I am hoping to travel after 3 more grandchildren are born, but I also have mobility issues. I have 2 bad knees, 2 previously broken shoulders, and a bad back that kills me if I walk very long.... I sent you a link to some travel articles I wrote, trying to get published, but these are before I traveled to Europe alone in 2009. I was in pain on that trip, but unfortunately, things are worse instead of better. Maybe we could work something out. I would love to return to France....

http://everywheremag.com/people/itchyfeet2844/articles