Paper and pen were faithfully brought all the way from Oz, but alas, I have succombed to the digital world. I admit that unless I use the keyboard (even if it is only on my smartphone), this trip has little hope of being recorded.
All the places that I've visited so far have been packed with tourists, so why the title? It is because 'The Road Less Travelled' refers more to the journey within. I am a cloistered Benedictine nun on sick leave for a short time from the monastic enclosure. During my leave, my Dad was diagnosed with a very aggressive and advanced form of cancer. Although sad, it was actually providential that our illnesses coincided, because I was able to support him through his treatment. Normally I would have been in the enclosure.
It had been an 18 year journey on this little trodden path. I have been sent as the founding member of 3 monasteries and have lived in Australia, New Zealand, UK, the Andes in Ecuador and the desert of Peru. The greatest and toughest journey was the one leaving the monastery for the first time in 15 years. Three years ago I saw the internet for the first time and sent my first email. It took me three months to work out how to turn on the TV, so many buttons and no dials. It took ages to figure out the multiplicity of new verbs such ad 'Google it'. People thought I was odd because I look fairly young but was behaving like some of their grandparents.
It will soon be time to return to our beautiful peaceful way of life. So before the time comes I desired to make a few pilgrimages. The first intention was for my Dad and his health. The next for the renewal of my vows. The third was given to me by my superior general (the big boss after the Lord and the Pope).
When I told Mother General about this trip, she said, 'Why not get a group together and make a pilgrimage in honour of Mother Foundress.' Mother Foundress is the wonderful person who founded our Congregation, her name is Marie Adele Garnier.
I said to M.General,' Mother, I can't even get one person to travel with me, how will I get a group!' With typical matter of factness ' Well, just pray'. And do you know, the very next day 3 people said they would go. But, not this year, next year. So my third task is a kind of reconnaissance, to organize the big group tour for next year.
At the moment I'm in a hotel in Cassino, Italy, beneath Monte Cassino, the heartland of Benedictine monasticism. But I'm still jetlagged and I have to catch a train early in the morning, so my account of my first few days in Italy will have to wait until I get to Sorrento. Until then, goodnight and God Bless.
The Road Less Travelled
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Well, dear Pellegrina, yours certainly is the road less traveled. I will eagerly read all your postings, which should be a respite from, and a reminder of, our (much too) our material world, as you travel it, on your inward and outward journey. God bless you and speed you on your way.
I'm definitely looking forward to your trip report, which I expect will be a from a slightly different perspective than many of the trip reports on this board, but from your writing style I have no doubt it will be just as interesting--if not more so. Safe travels.
Welcome, Pelligrina. Sorry about your father and I hope this finds you well/cured and ready for the next portion of your journey.
Is Italy the first part? Looking forward to reading more. It will be particularly interesting because of your unique frame of reference.
Dear Pelligina, we wish you safe and rewarding travels, and look forward to your sharing them with us.
(Please excuse my misspelling your name, Pelligrina.)
Thank you so much for posting. I will look forward to reading of your travels and I wish you all the best.
Pelligrina:
Looking forward to more.
Sandy
I will most definitely be following!
yes, Pelligrina, welcome.
Clearly lucky is not the right word to describe the co-incidence that had you and your father suffer illness at the same time, but it must have been a comfort for him to have you there.
looking forward to learning more about your trip.
Thankyou Fodorites for your encouragement.
To continue...
ROME 2 nights
How's this for a contridiction, I'm an enclosed nun who loves to travel. Has anyone thought of why we love travelling? Several people have said to me I'm at the age when you become restless. That's fine, I can accept that explanation. But if I were to give a spiritual reason, I would say that none of us were actually made for this world, our true homeland is somewhere else, we Catholics call it Heaven. In my travels, in particular a pilgrimage, I think I'm searching for those things which remind me of my homeland and those things which will help me to get there. So on this journey, the apparently little coincidences actually take on a much bigger significance.
It just so happened that my Superior General, who normally resides in London, had to go to Rome unexpectedly. She would be leaving the day after I arrived from Australia. This seems like a small coincidence but it meant so much to me to receive her blessing on the first morning of my journey. As I was travelling alone for the 1st time in Europe, it gave me that extra boost of confidence.
So armed with this blessing I sallied forth to find the metro station. Our convent in Rome is on a little side street off the Via Aurelia only 5 minutes to the metro, a real bonus for guests. At the spot where the VIA Aurelia forks into two, there's the cutest, quaintest Medieval Church called Madonna di Riposo. It is tiny but with beautiful frescoes. Apparently Pope St Pius V prayed there before the Battle of Lepanto. Pls don't ask me for dates. I find these little obscure Churches somehow much more attractive than the larger more ornate basilicas.
Having said that, my first stop on the metro was St Peter's, the Vatican. Again, it is quite symbolic for me to have started the journey by praying in this place. I have been to Rome 4 times before. The last time was about 10 years ago and I was in my full length black habit. As I am on leave this time I am in plain clothes but am wearing our Congregational medal around my neck.
This was the first time I've had to line up to get in to the Basilicas to pray. I've always walked straight in and except for Papal audiences have never seen queues to get in before. This may have been timing but I marvelled at the number of people there were this time round.
It was particularly moving to pray before the tomb of Pope John Paul II. The last time I was there when he was elderly and frail, I had the wonderful opportunity of receiving his blessing at an audience. Everyone else had been pulled away by the attendants but I forgot to give my present to Pope JP and I somehow managed to sneak back. I was alone and knelt before him, he was sitting. He put his hand on my head and drew the sign of the cross on my forehead several times and patted my cheek. It lasted about 3 minutes. It is a moment I won't ever forget. The thing I temembered most was how extaordinarily blue, incredibly blue Pope JP eyes were, deep, experienced, like an ocean. These were the memories which came flooding back as I prayed by his tomb.
My next mission that day was to get my Euro rail pass validated. If I wete to arrange things again I would book online with TrenItalia instead. I'm so glad I went to validate the ticket the day before my train journey, the queue is a nightmare, it took nearly an hour.
That done, I headed off for my first restaurant meal in Rome. They called it Veal tail. It was delicious. Then I went to St Mary Majors. Underneath the main altar is said to be a piece of Our Lord's crib. This Church is said to be the oldest Church dedicated to Our Lady, but some say that Santa Maria in Tratevere is the oldest. After that I think I committed the sin of gluttony.
In need of some energy, I stopped for some gelato. Did you know that if you don't say you want the little cone, they don't ask you what you would like, they just give you the big cone with the three enormous scoops of gelato. But I did sleep well the rest of the day.
What a lovely report Pelligrina. I am not Catholic but have many Catholic friends including a couple of nuns who teach at a local school. I had never even imagined/considered members of cloistered orders traveling abroad. I am really interested in your 'journey' in all meanings of the word.
Crikey, what a story. One of my friends at University became a monk before he qualified and runs his mission's website, for you this is new. Still, I guess the trick for your preparation is to find monestries and churches to visit in the various cities you are visiting while fitting in the odd icecream etc.
Clearly you know most of these sort of things from within the church better than we ever could, but I'd like to suggest you might want to partake in one of the Caminos. These are the traditional pilgrimage paths normally going to Rome, Santiago or Jerusalem. They reach far back into the Northern hinterland so that you can, for instance, walk from Canterbury in the UK to Santiago in the North East of Spain. There are still the odd few brass seashells bolted into the streets and ex-camino lodging along the way.
You don't have to "do" the whole thing as the journey is in your soul as much as your legs but this might be of interest to your party.
SAN GIOVANNI ROTONDO (3 Nights)
Where??? You need to take a train to Foggia then catch the bus. Quite honestly, I think the only people who would make a journey here are those who have a devotion to St Pio, affectionately known ad Padre Pio. He may seem to some as rather bizarre, but he is actually one of the most human saints we have in the Church. His writings plainly reveal a warm, loving, somewhat humourous man He comes across like an old Italian grandpa.
Yet, he is an extraordinary saint. He only died in 1968. That's not very long ago. I mention this because Padre Pio received the extraordinary phenomenona called the stigmata, this is the word used for when a person receives mysteriously the wounds of Christ on their body. Padre Pio was the first priest to receive the stigmata. I mention when he died because he lived during an age when scientific research was relatively well developed. The research into his wounds were carried out by medical doctors.
My father is a medical doctor and a convert. I remember when I was a little girl that my Dad was quite impressed with Padre Pio and he is not one to be swayed without valid evidence. Dad and Mum had visited Padre Pio's tomb which is at the Friary in San Giovanni Rotondo, so it was my turn.
When I got off the bus I was very distracted because there were no taxis around and I had no idea where the hotel was. I had my big bag with me. While I was walking around looking for a taxi or map, this big man with sunglasses on circuled round me like shark and then he bumped into me. If I hadn't been distracted I would have realized what happened. He took my $2.50 bus ticket and 10 euros from my top pocket. It was silly of me to use my top pocket. He didn't take anything else. I have a pacsafe handbag, it has a zip that is locked down so can't easily be opened and it has a wire mesh all round it and wire through the strap so it can't be slashed. It
It is beautiful up at the Friary but I can't say it is a tourist attraction. There were throngs of people there, some say its the most visited pilgrim site in the Church,it rivals Guadalupe in Mexico. Quite slimply it was an opportunity to withdraw from the World and to think upon the things that ate really important in life.
It was an opportunity to pray before the tomb of Padre Pio and to ask him to pray for Dad. Catholics believe that the faithful who leave this Earth are still alive in the next world. And as St Paul asks us to pray for one another, we ask the saints who are still alive and still apart of the Body of Christ to pray for us.
On one of the days I was there, I took a bus to Monte St Angelic where the cave of St Michael the Archangel is situated. This could very well be a tourist attraction but it is out of the way.
In the cave is a church. It's quite an unusual experience to be in a cave during Mass. The whole town is built on a hilltop and there is a large ruin that used to be a castle. The streets are medieval, reminded me of Assissi. There are rows and rows of pastry shops selling the yummiest biscuits. You have panoramic views if the valley on one side and the ocean on the other. White stonewashed houses ate dotted over the cliff face.
Goodnight and God Bless. More to come soon.
still with you on your journey, Pelligrina.
you are certainly finding some places that have not featured often on this board, if at all - the road less travelled indeed.
BTW, is there a special punishment reserved for those who steal from nuns?
I am really enjoying your report. Keep going, please.
What annhig said! More, please.
Welcome Pelligrina and I am enjoying your report. Thank you for sharing it. What perspective you have....I am sure it is incredible to have met John Paul Ii.
Sorry you were stolen from and thankful you did not lose too much. I hope all will be well with your father.
I look forward to more. Safe travels!
Enjoying your report sister.
Thankyou All! Yes Annhig, its quite amazing the number of people who want to steal from and want to con nuns. As my novice mistress often said, its better to be conned than the one who cons. We always take it with a sense of humour.
About 20 years ago the son of an old lady who prayed in the chapel ay the motherhouse broke into the convent and was in one of the cells when a sister walked in. He told her he was a workman but she ran out to get help. The thief followed her bec the convent was so big he was lost and couldn't find his way out. The sister ran to the community yelling out that there was a theif behind her.
One of the novices was a trained psychiatric nurse and knew how to stop aggressive patients. She knocked the thief to the ground and five nuns promptly sat on top of him. When the police came they keeled over laughing and said they wished they had a camera. The theif did some time behind bars and his mother said he deserved everything he got.
Sorry, I should continue...
ROME AGAIN (2 nights)
It was lovely coming back to our monastery in Rome. The sisters were keen to hear about Padre Pio's shrine. The next day my main purpose was to get to Trastevere. We have two founders in our Congregation. One is St Benedict, it is his Rule that we follow. The other is Marie Adele Garnier who began our little monastic family just over100 years ago.
St Benedict was born in Norcia in 480. Layer on he moved to Rome to study law. One of the places he was supposed to have stayed in is Trastevere in the Piazza in Piscinula. My travel agent who has been to Rome 58 times says Trastevere is favourite part of Rome and it had the best restaurants. I have to say that Trastevere was very appealing in every way. It has an old world charm and the restaurant I lunched in was superb. If you can find this little Piazza and this quaint little church please take a look. It's one of those little hidden gems.
I did a bit of a walk around 4 to 5 churches then went across the bridge to visit the Pantheon. Before she left Rome, Mother General said to me to visit it if I can.
I'm sorry I wanted to bring you up to date with Sorrento, this is where I am now but I can hardly keep my eyes open. Goodnight and God Bless.
Rome is indeed a city where people try to prey on nuns, who are often not the most well-travelled people. Of course it's not really because they are nuns, but because they are not well-travelled.
I definitely hope to hear about less common destinations in your upcoming reports. Your eyes will see things differently -- I think that all of us here have understood that by now.
Pretty funny story about the thief in the monastery. And he absolutely deserved what he got!
I look forward to "joining" you in Sorrento!
You travel, Sister, ad majorem Dei gloriam, and you bless us by doing it.
I am enjoying your travels on the road less traveled, as well as your unique perspective. Your report is a very good read. I'll bet lots of fodorites are following you and wishing you well on your journey.
I am very much enjoying this Pelligrina. Sorry about the pickpocket but that sounds like a great handbag.
Wonderful report, Pelligrina.
I just found your travel report and so enjoying reading it....I will now look for it daily and keep up with your journey. Bless you
Hi again Pellligrina,
I found it! only on googlemaps, mind you, but I'll be sure to try to find it for real next time we're there.
looking forward to Sorrento.
Hello, Pelligrina,
I am enjoying your trip report. I am reminded of the trip to Italy that my sister and I took. I had serious arthritis in one knee and moderate arthritis in the other knee, so that even when I took pain killers in the morning, I was still limping around on those cobblestones.
I loved Italy, especially Rome, but I'm thinking I didn't see as much as I wanted because of my mobility issues. I do love a beautiful church, and your report is inspiring me to return and see more of those wonderful churches in Rome. I'm getting on in years, so I need to get a move on so that I can visit Rome again and also see some other places.
P.S. As an American and a lover of poetry, I like the title of this thread.
More, please!
Sorry Fodorites,
Because of the places I've been staying in I found it difficult to get WiFi. I really have to play catch up because now I'm in Laval, France. I'm just going out for a bite to rat and then I'm going to jot down as much as I can. Bless you all for your encouragement.
I'm just going out for a bite to rat and then I'm going to jot down as much as I can.>>
a bite to rat? yum!
Oh dear, that's what happens when you've only got your phone to use.
My rat tonight was shellfish, that was the restaurant's specialty next door and it was so much cheaper than back in Australia. If you're in Laval go to Les Relais d' Alsace right next to the Best Western Hotel. It's lovely and very reasonable.
ROME Continued...
I didnt mention before that at the back of the church which honours the place where St Benedict once lived, there is preserved there his bedroom. I think it is about one metre wide or less and about 1.5 metres long, all brick. Very, very simple when you compare it to Monte Cassino.
After lunch near St Benedict's room, I went across the Tiber to the little island. There is a hospital and the church there is where St Bartholemew the Apostle is buried. The church was closed so I continued on to the Pantheon. To my surprise I passed a huge synagogue but it too was closed. It looked beautiful from the outside.
When I arrived at the Pantheon I understood why Mother General had asked me to see it. The moment I walked in I gasped and it wasn't because of the overwhelming impression of the structure. The Pantheon is round. High above, right in the middle of the dome roof was a large opening which looked directly into the sky. M.General must have known what would go through my mind when I saw that opening.
In our congregation, the little stories about our Foundress are legendary among our sisters. They are part of Our heritage, our formation, they remind us of who we are and where we are going. Quo Vadis? One of the stories we have is about Marie Adele having a dream. She dreamt she was in a round room and right up top in the roof of the room was a hole and there was a ladder which led up through the hole, the ladder lead to heaven. The Pantheon is dedicated to Our Lady Queen of Martyrs and our congregation is also devoted to the martyrs.
After being moved in this beautiful building I looked at my map and perhaps a.little fool hardy thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to walk from the Pantheon to Termini station. I had some errands to do for the sisters. I used the attractions as landmarks. Needless to say it took me hours. It's so hard to keep moving when all you want to do is stay and look. An unexpected surprise was the church of St Ignatius of Loyola. I'm sure the paintings in there were Michael Angelos. They were magnificent. It was also of interest bec normally the church houses the relic of St Francis Xavier's forearm which is preserved in the action of giving a blessing. At this very moment the forearm is travelling around Australia to mark the Year of Faith. St Francis Xavier, St Therese of Liseaux, St Peter Chanelle and most importantly Our Lady Help of Christians are the patron saints of Australia.
After that I walked to the Trevi fountain, Quirinale (I really know nothing about this place) , Spanish steps, Maria Maggiore again and then the gelato place across the street. That was for energy of course. That walk took me 3hous bec I kept looking and then kept getting lost. Has anyone pseen that Woody Allen movie about Rome? I saw it on the plane it was very apt.
MONTE CASSINO (2 nights)
It was with a heavy heart that I took leave of my sisters. Some of them I had known for 18 years and it was wonderful to catch up. But this is what our life is like, I may not see any of them again. I have a blood sister who is in the same order as me. My younger sister entered 6 months after I did. It was hard on Mum but now she says, I haven't lost two daughters I've gained two monasteries. Actually, she's gained ten because we're all like family. In Heaven there will be no more goodbyes.
After the experience in San Giovanni Rotondo of not able to find a taxi I was over anxious arriving in Cassino and immediately rang the hotel to ask them to send a taxi. I felt so sheepish when 1.5 minutes later a man talking on a mobile phone pointed to me and then pointed to the sign I was standing next to. It said in black on a red background TAXI. Then he pointed to the car I was standing in front of and it had a black and white sign on the dashboard which said TAXI.
Originally I thought I would have to pay about 50 euros in taxi fares to get to Monte Cassino. It turns out that 2 minutes from the Hotel Marconi which I stayed in, is the bus station. The bus goes up when the Abbey opens and returns when the Abbey shuts, both morning and afternoon. One trip only costs 80 cents. I made it just in time for the afternoon bus...
To be continued.... Goodnight and God Bless
Your rat was shellfish? He should have learnt to share.
By any chance was your shellfish a Bug?
I love reading your report, and following you in spirit. Look forward to hearing more from you on your journey. It will inspire all of us on our journeys. Thanks so much for sharing this with us!
Still following along! We just returned from Rome and the Pantheon is really amazing. Beautiful and an engineering marvel.
I had read a book prior to going to Rome where the author (who lived in Rome for a year) had been told if it ever snows in Rome to run to the Pantheon to see the snow fall through the oculus. Wouldn't that be an amazing sight to see?
To my surprise I passed a huge synagogue but it too was closed. It looked beautiful from the outside.
The ejection of the moors and the jews from Spain in or before 1492 (such a pivotal date) meant yet another diaspora and a fair number moved to Italy, Venice in particular since Italy was only a geographical term at the time, Rome, and other mediteranian countries. Obviously the period under Franco lead to a major reduction to the jewish population but now increasing.
MONTE CASSINO continued...
Before WWII, most of those, if not all of the pilgrims visiting Monte Cassino would've had some devotion to St Benedict or his twin sister St Scholastica. I estimated that during the time I was there, probably 98% of those on pilgrimage were devoted to those souls who lost their lives in the war. About 50% of the latter were Polish. They had come to visit the Polish cemetery where over 1000 soldiers had been buried close to the Abbey.
During WWII, 90% of the Abbey was destroyed by the Allies including the
hospital. There is a very solemn atmosphere about the place. Inside I was churning with excitement. This is Benedictine homeland, this is where our order began 1500 years ago. The Discalced Carmelites and Jesuits began in the 16 th century, Franciscans and Dominicans in the 12th. Benedictines are the oldest order in the Western Church and St Benedict was the Father of monasticism in the West.
There were 2 other people on the bus with me on that first of three trips up to the Abbey. They were two Kiwi gentlemen from NZ. One was an ex army officer and both had fathers who served at Monte Cassino during the war. It was one of those little blessed coincidences that we should meet. There were hardly any visitors when we arrived, we were the only English speakers but as we were 3 we formed a group and therefore we were able to get an English tour guide.
Us 3 had to pay for 30 people but one of the kiwis was so kind that he paid for my tour. It was important to me as the tour took us to St Benedict's cell when he wad Abbott of the Abbey. It was just as I imagined it would be. There is a large arched window which St Benedict used to look out of. There are so many stories connected to this window and this room. It was very moving to be there. If you visit Monte Cassino read 'The Diologues of St Gregory the Great' written about 100 years after St Benedict died. This little biography of St Benedict will explain quite a lot of what you see in the Abbey.
As we walked through the Abbey our tour guide kept being surprised that I knew what she was talking about. As we walked on she became increasingly puzzled but very happy that I knew so much about St Benedict. I have to explain that I'm not permitted to wear my habit while on leave because it is normally associated with the enclosure of the monastery. But it was getting rather funny. The 2 kiwis knew who I was and they could see the funny side too. As we approached the tomb of St Benedict and St Scholastica which is under the main altar of the Church, I decided it would be better to let her know. So I took out my old passport and showed her the picture of myself in the full habit.
It was my turn to be a bit surprised. I thought that they would have had truckloads of Benedictines at the Abbey but from her reaction I guessed that she had seen relatively few. It makes sense I suppose, we are normally cloistered after all. But she was genuinely happy to be sharing her enthusiasm with me.
What a wonderful story - I am really enjoying your report and your journey!
How can one express the experience of kneeling before the ancient founder of your order. There were so many people walking around taking photos that I was very restrained before the tomb of Our Holy Father Benedict. But within, it was an entirely different story. Awe, silence, profound peace, these are some of the meager words which come to mind.
The next day I took the journey twice up to the Abbey. I just spent nearly the whole time kneeling near to the tombs of St Benedict and Scholastica. At one point the river of pilgrims abated a little and I was able to steal a moment alone before the tomb. I renewed my vows. The Benedictine vows are Conversion of Life, Stability and Obedience unto death. These vows are older than the formulation of Poverty, Chastity and Obedience. The Evangelical counsels of Poverty and Chastity are contained in the vow of Conversion of life.
When Benedictines make their vows, it is followed by the singing of what is known as the Suscipe. This is sung with the arms raised up towards heaven. St Benedict died in this posture. The only place which didn't have any crowds was the Blessed Sacrament chapel and this was the most fitting place for the Suscipe. So I quietly sung to myself "Suscipe Domine" , "Uphold me Lord, according to your promise and I shall live. Let my hope in you not be in vain."
This moment is something that I will always hold close to my heart.
Sorry Mussolini not Franco (must be going mad)
Pelligrina - thank you for sharing this precious moment with us.
I'm learning a lot from your travels.
Pelligrina, your words help reaffirm our own faith and hope.
Before I left the Abbey I bought some medals and gifts at the little shop. I also bought a bar of dark chocolate (for energy of course). I went back into the Church for a final prayer before I caught my bus.
To my delight there was Vespers being sung by the monks. After Vespers a priest came close to where I was sitting. I took my package out of my bag and brought it to him for a blessing. He was an old monk and I was greatly edified by his faithfulness to the Benedictine rule of silence. He also kept the solemn monastic demeanor. To my horror when he opened the package it was the bar of chocolate. Totally embarrassed I ran back to get the medals and pictures. But I could see that the old monk had gone red in the face and I could tell that under the solemness there was an old monk roaring with laughter.
"How can one express the experience of kneeling before the ancient founder of your order"
Pelligrina, I believe you are expressing the experience perfectly. Thankyou for sharing your journey with us.
Thanks everyone. It helps me to savour the memory by writing. You're all very kind and encouraging.
Bilboburgler, I meant to say a while back that yes, I know of the Santiago de Compestalla caminos. There are several starting points and all end in the same place. I really don't have the time but I will be visiting hopefully Paray le Monial and Lourdes and St Maximum la St Baume. All these places are in the Camino. Next January I will be joining a group from New York to visit the Holy Land. Scott Hahn who I suspect that our friend DaveOhio might know, will be leading the pilgrimage. So there will be more trip reports. Interesting about the Synagogue.
If you are going to try out your fiction on fodorites, you should at least come up with a new screen name, or do cloistered nuns sell insurance now:
http://www.fodors.com/community/fodorite-lounge/travel-insurance-any-reason-why-both-of-us-have-to-get-it.cfm
Comment has been removed by Fodor's moderators
It would be very difficult for a lay person to tell you what I've just told you about monastic life. When my father was diagnosed with cancer I was faced with the prospect of having to support my mother. So I worked in my sister's office as she was manager for a travel insurance company. Please give valid reasons before you accuse someone of something, this is called basic justice. Ask any Benedictine about whether what I have said is true regarding monastic life. This thread has very much of a point, probably more than anything else worth living for in the world. It may be just that you don't agree with it, that doesn't mean its pointless. If it does then one persons viewpoint is the benchmark for all.
By the way, I have left my sister's office and am now working in our Diocese. Look up Marie Adele Garnier and you will find the order I belong too.
As one might expect, my husband and I saw so many churches in Italy and France that we became somewhat jaded. However, when in Rome, we always returned to St Ignatius of Loyola--there was something about it that moved us both.
I do not share your faith, Pelligrina, but I respect it and am enjoying your trip very much. More, please!
Pelligrina, I have enjoyed your report. Unfortunately, the world is full of nasty people who try to ruin it for others. The good news is that there are also lots of kind and encouraging people, as well. I know you know this.....don't let the nasty ones trouble you or concern you! Please continue and you don't have to explain yourself to anyone.
That's what I would have thought if she hadn't started backpedaling.
Click on her name. Look at her threads. And reach your own conclusions.
Thanks Denisea and TDudette. I think I was taken aback after sharing about Monte Cassino, it was so special to me but I guess I should expect that people will be like that now and again. Mind you, convent life can be pretty tough but the last few years has been a pretty rough journey and so I guess the result is a bit of over sensitivity. But I am mystified as to why anyone would think you would make something like this up. So with your kind advice I will continue because I do not believe that this pilgrimage is for myself alone.
SORRENTO (3 nights)
At the moment I'm waiting for a taxi to take me to the station so please forgive me if this posting ends abruptly. In the monastic routine, after the liturgical hour (also called the Divine office) we call None which finishes about 3.30 we have what we call 'Recreation' for about an hour. This was a time when the rule of silence is relaxed and in charity and joy we would converse with each other. Sometimes we play badminton or volleyball or go for a walk, nearly always we have some craft work to do.
Sorrento was my recreation. It was a time for me to break up a little the intensity of the spiritual journey.
well, the alternative is that if you aren't doing this journey, you have a fertile imagination and a moving way of writing, so I'm still here too.
I will keep reading as well, but I am also thinking about calling in an exorcist.
I get that you are mystified as to why someone would think you are making up your story. If you are on the forum long enough you will see all kinds of posts that will leave you scratching your head. Some people have ti be right or prove others wrong or just berate them for what they deem a stupid question. Best not to try to understand that type of behavior at all!
Pelligrina, if I am wrong, I sincerely apologize. I misinterpreted your "short leave" from the monastery to be that you just left, as opposed to several years ago.
I admit to being cynical after a poster here wrote moving posts about being deployed and severely injured, all of which turned out to be false.
I'm not sure what this means:
This thread has very much of a point, probably more than anything else worth living for in the world. It may be just that you don't agree with it, that doesn't mean its pointless. If it does then one persons viewpoint is the benchmark for all.
I said to M.General,' Mother, I can't even get one person to travel with me, how will I get a group!' With typical matter of factness ' Well, just pray'. And do you know, the very next day 3 people said they would go. But, not this year, next year. So my third task is a kind of reconnaissance, to organize the big group tour for next year.
I am intrigued by the idea of a big group tour led by a cloistered nun. Guess no one is immune to changing job descriptions.
Like follow_your_bliss, I also recall the emotional journey Fodorites followed and crashed and burned with as we accompanied the "deployed/injured" American soldier/poster who turned out to be a 'troll'.
I am reading along with this (very well-written piece)hoping against hope that this is for real...certainly the details (some of which I can verify personally) are authentic. I served as a chaplain at a school in Italy some years ago and because of my office visited the same places with similar emotions...
Here's hoping...but not praying: will save that for other purposes!
Kerouac if you need the name of a good exorcist I know one. Yes, its understandable these days with all the cons how one can be suspicious. In the Rule of Benedict he warns the Abbott not to be overly suspicious. Thankyou for your apologies. How can I reassure you as you journey with me? Perhaps when I arrive at the Motherhouse in London, anyone who wishes to is welcome for a cuppa tea with us. I feel safe at the Motherhouse then maybe a few of you can validate for those who can't get there. With reference to what the meaning was to the second part of my posting, that was in answer to a post that was soon after removed by the Fodorite moderators. I'm very impressed with their proffessionalism. It's all behind now and forgotten, let us be fellow travellers again.
SORRENTO Continued...
Another way to validate is perhaps to call the convent in Sorrrento where I stayed. It's called Convento Bambino Gesu or 'La Culla' is the nickname. Just ask if they remember the Australian Chinese sister who is a Benedictine but on leave and was not in her habit. Yes that's right, I'm an ABC or Lee Kwan Yu once called us bananas, yellow on the outside but white on the inside. There are 3 sisters in the house. The youngest sister, Sr Monica is the only one who speaks English but I mostly spoke Spanish to her as she understands it perfectly but can't speak it. The Italians have an incredible artistic gene. Sr Monica had this brilliant idea that they should paint icons, so they taught themselves. In the Russian monasteries, a monk or nun has to study iconography for ten years before they paint their first icon. But you should see what two of the sisters have painted. Exact replicas of Rublev's icon of The Trinity and the Virgin of Vladimir which they call Mother of Perpetual succour.
Unbelievable to be able to paint just like that.
The convent was so amazing. I felt as if I were living in a 16th century villa with Panoramic views of the ocean and Mt Vesuvia. There is a little chapel just outside the convent. It was opened when I arrived but as I had just come from the train station and it was pouring rain and humid and hot, I didnt go in. It was never opened at any other time so I'm regretting it a little.
I'm on a budget so will be staying at convents and monasteries most of the time. Its the first time I'll be travelling on my own without a tour group but reading all the Fodorite's postings have given me a lot of courage to try this on my own.
How about a link to that monastery that springs for tour groups for its cloistered nuns?
It's a nice place to stay and cheap if you get the chance. It's close to the station but I was rather alarmed on more than a few occassions walking along the exytemely narrow footpath with the traffic zooming past. I turned my keyring torch on while walking ay night in the rain. It is a bit of a hike into town.
I said this was like recreation but I found myself exploring the different churches as soon as I got there. All of them beautiful. But I loved the little chapel dedicated to Maria SS. De Soccorso near the ferry wharf. It's tucked away in a little corner and its been built into the cliff face. It seems that the locals were determined to restore the little chapel and it looks to be at their own cost.
The next day I headed off to catch a ferry to the Isle of Capri. The weather was better this day and there was even Sun. There were crowds and crowds of people everywhere, somehow I found myself on the top deck. It's such a beautiful ride to Capri. It looks so pretty glittering in the little sunshine we had that day.
A swarm of tour guides surround you the moment you disembark. I wish I had done a little research into Capri before I came. But I was just too busy and the other parts of my journey were more important for me to organize. So I just strolled down the tow of shops and then found an inviting staircase. So I strolled up the staircase and came to a sign which said 'Centro'. So I kept going. The staircase just kept going up and up and up and then up some more. I overtook a Scottish couple that kept saying 'nearly there'. Finally, there was only one more staircase and I found myself in the Piazza. There was a Church there dedicated to St Stephen, there seemed to have been several masses on back to back.
Many of the shops were very exclusive and prices seemed higher than in Sorrento. Oh but the views. I'd only seen little houses built like these in pictures. It was stunning. Limone seems to be the town specialty. So I bought a pricey limone slushee. At lunch time I avoided the Piazza and the main street and discovered a little alley that ran below the tram station. There was a ristorante that was almost hidden. I went to explore and saw that there were a few Italians inside (a good sign) then the next discovery was that it had all windows,on one side overlooking the harbour. Can you ask for anything more?
How do you put in a link? The web address is
WWW.la-Culla.com
Email info@la-Culla.com
Tel./ fax 081 878 1797
I'm not sure what the country code is for Italy. It's an open house even if it is run by sister. There's a book I used called Goodnight and God Bless. It was too big to bring with me but what I found is that trip advisor had the correct contact details. The book was a bit out of date. I think the author is Eileen Barish or something close. I picked it up from the Josephites in North Sydney.
It did it, it made the link itself!!!
I'm not looking for a recommendation. I was quoting your earlier posting. Perhaps you don't remember writing it...
I love the story and the details. Tell it as you see it and don't worry about other's concerns
Please keep going. Many of us are still on board.
"But I could see that the old monk had gone red in the face and I could tell that under the solemness there was an old monk roaring with laughter."
This had me laughing out loud! Loving the trip so far Pelligrina, you certainly have a different perspective on travel than most of us.
I was curious so I looked up Pellegrina's other posts. Do modern "cloistered" orders allow nuns to go to the cinema? Maybe my preconceptions are old-fashioned?
Don't know, don't care.. I am enjoying her report.
On, tarquin, forget the movie concerns. Everone is entitled to some entertainment. What I am interested in is how to get temporary release from vows, such as poverty. I think there are a lot of Catholics who would love to get a temporary release from, say, their marriage vows.
No need for snark. Please keep it going, Pelligrina.
I am enjoying your thread, Pelligrina. Very well-written, with just the right amount of interesting detail.
I'm disconcerted by people who find it necessary to question the motives of other people.
If you doubt Pelligrina, no one is forcing you to read her thread.
Religions exist on faith -- so do trip reports. The faithful will believe, and that's fine. Nobody is hurting anybody here.
I had to smile at some of the postings, both for their kind support and some for the misconceptions borne perhaps out of curiosity. The latter are the type I have heard nearly all my monastic life.
Just to clarify again as I know its hard to absorb all the posts some have not absorbed what has been written. Normally when I am living the full contemplative, cloistered life, we do not have tv, radio and we only get the paper once a week. We only go out if it is absolutely necessary. Up until recently we did not have computers but the world has changed and it is becoming necessary to have them. This will make my family laugh, on my visit to Rome I was considered an expert with computers.
Having said this, quite a number of religious orders including monastic orders have had tv in their monastery for decades. Our order is regarded quite strict in this sense.
On occassion, and this should be considered an exception, for reasons of compassion, a sister may be granted sick leave for an indefinite period of time. It is also out of compassion that the normally strict rule of life is not applied in its full force during this period of sick leave. I thank God for my superior, Mother General who is so compassionate and understanding and encouraging.
With regards to poverty, strictly speaking the vow refers to the free relinquishment of ownership. Since the day of my vows to this very day I have not own anything. We have a saying, I own nothing, I own the world. Anything that I use or wear or buy has to be done with permission from the Abbott. M General is our Abbess. So we see how the vows are linked. I have M.General's blessing and permission for all this. For some of it I am doing out of obedience to her request as she had asked me to organize a tour in honour of our Foundress Marie Adele Garnier. Her cause for canonisation is in process. If after climbing uphill for 2km and I need to buy a costly 5 euro slushi or fall into a coma, I will for reasons of charity to my poor body, buy the slushi. Even Our Lord ate corn on the Sabbath.
If for some reason I haven't lived up to people's expectations of a religious all I can say is I'm sorry, I'm only human. But I can assure you I'm trying my very best under what can be sometimes difficult circumstances.
SORRENTO continued....
I arrived back from Capri rather exhausted but quite convinced that next year it would make a good diversion for people who wish to make the pilgrimage. I wanted to explore further. I was faced with two choices. Will I go to Pompei or will I go to Positano. I had asked several people that day their opinion. Funny enough all the men said Pompei and all the women said Positano.
The problem was solved when I spoke to the lady at the information desk on the wharf. She was getting to know me by now as I had so many questions. If I get to the wharf by 3pm there was a ferry to Positano. So I could go to Pompei in the morning and Positano in the afternoon.
Thank you so much for the explanations. Please forgive me for misunderstanding when you posted:
I'm wanting to buy a kindle fire but read on one of the forums that a regular (old version) kindle is better. My main purpose is to bring books along in a light and easy way to France and Italy next year. Apart from not really being able to afford an ipad or iphone or galaxy etc I would be worried about taking these on the journey in case they may get lost or stolen.
I now understand that M. General kindly approved this purchase. Again, apologies.
On the circumvesuviano train, I met a fellow Aussie and a Jewish lady and her 13 year old son. Our Aussie friend advised us to pay for the English tour with guide. Our Jewish friends had only taken the audio tour the day before and found the numbers didn't correspond with what they were looking at. After taking the tour I vouch for it. It was absolutely fascinating to hear the explanations behind what we were looking at. Without the tour it would have been a large area of old ruins but with the tour the ancient city was brimming with life.
Then it hits you, how a living city like Pompei can suddenly and completely, disappear off the face of the earth. A poignant image is the remains of a man and women entombed by molten lava, you could still see the expression on their faces as they were in the throws of death.
The way the archeologists were able to capture this almost cinematic scene was ingenious. When the victims were consumed by the lava, the lava of course eventually hardened around their bodies. The bodies after a time decayed. So what was left was a skeleton within a cavity. The archeologists used piping to inject and fill the cavity with plaster. They then quickly dug out the plaster and the result was an eerie 3 dimensional image of a dying victim.
There was so much to see, please don't miss the Roman baths and gymnasium if you ever get there. After the tour I lingered a little, perhaps too long. I had to make it to the ferry wharf by 3 pm and time was getting away.
When I jumped off the train I literally ran all the way to the wharf and made it about 5 minutes before the ferry was due to leave. The lady at the information desk started when I collapsed gasping and panting at her window. Then she grinned because she recognized me. 'I made it', I said. You know what happened, she started to shake her head, 'The whether not good, no ferry to Positano'.
What could I do. I was too exhausted to climb back up the cliff and it was 3 pm and I hadn't eaten, so I crawled over to a restaurant on the wharf. This was my last meal in Sorrento and probably the best I had in Italy, seafood Linguini. I had just finished my meal when a huge storm broke. There would be no going to dinner that night.
Yes, I bought a kindle 3g keyboard and on it I have the entire Divine Office, the entire Bible and even the entire Summa Theologica which I bought for 99cents. I can now carry l these without breaking my back. When I show M.Generate this(she is in Australia at the moment she will be intrigued and delighted I'm sure. I keep you in my prayers.
Still reading and enjoying....really hope to make it to Pompeii some day! And, I would love to have some seafood linguine for dinner!
Sister, your prayers are most appreciated. I am in awe that you find time for prayers with your busy travel schedule. Why just last December you shared with us that
In May and beginning of June France, Corsica, Italy then to Singapore for Grandma's 95th birthday, then possibly going to Poland for my best friend's wedding. Not very well timed but we don't want to do Europe in July when it is so busy.
When I get back to Oz I will probably quit my job and either go back to teaching or have yet another major life change.
Yes, lots of people ask about prayer and one of the great things about being on leave is that I can experience how lay people cope with prayer during a full working day. The best I have been finding is to get up early in the morning and to get your prayer time in first.
I actually quit my job earlier than expected and didn't get to see grandma or to go overseas with my parents because of my new job in the diocese. My parents went on their own and grandma died 2 months ago. God bless.
PARIS (2 nights)
Sorrento marked the end of the first stage of my journey. As said before, our congregation has two founders. The first is St Benedict. So I call the Italian journey, the Path of St Benedict. The second part is the Path of Marie Adele Garnier. This path takes me to France.
Most of my journey in Italy were to places which were quite frequently visited. In France however, some of the places I am going to are really quite remote. If you look at one of my threads on Grancey le Chateau running back a few years ago ( this was in planning for a journey which was postponed until now), you will see some of the difficulty I had in trying to work out how to get to these nearly unheard of places.
I would have liked to have started off at Grancey le Chateau, the place where Marie Adele was born. As it worked out, it was much cheaper, easier and quicker to fly from Naples to Paris. So I began at the place where Marie Adele Founded our congregation - Montmartre.
Probably the first thing I noticed upon arriving in Paris is that my French is appalling. I found it relatively easy to communicate in Italy because I had some grounding in Spanish. It is going to take a while to get the pronunciation here but so far everyone has been kind and helpful.
I stayed at the Maison Eyrmard, the place where St Peter Julian Eyrmard lies. It is one of the cheapest places to stay in Paris but the location is outstanding, right near the Arc du Triomph. Growing up in Sydney we used to visit St Peter Julian's church in Haymarket. We would light the candles in front of his statue because it seemed everyone would go to Our Lady and we would feel sorry for him. But our prayers always seemed to be answered. So it was very special to pray before his body which is lying in a glass casket. His body is incorrupt.
The next day I felt quite ill with a tummy bug. As I write this I'm still not feeling the best. I took longer to get moving that morning. Travelling by metro in Paris is so cheap. I was trying to ask the tobacconist for a day ticket but he gave me a packet of 10 metro tickets for only about 12 euros. My first stop was of course Montmartre.
Tomorrow I'm taking the train down South and will be joining a community who I think do not normally take in guests. I hope I can get access to WiFi as the 3G with the French company Orange doesn't seem to work. I'm supposed to go to Lourdes in a few days time but its flooded so not sure if I'll be able to go there. In the meantime I would love you to get to know our Foundress Marie Adele Garnier. You can find information about her on this link www.tyburnconvent.org.UK . Then you will have more understanding of this journey. Until I get WiFi, Goodnight and God Bless.
"Then it hits you, how a living city like Pompei can suddenly and completely, disappear off the face of the earth."=========I had the same response. When I read that they had rebuilt the city, I was flabbergasted as well.
What a fascinating report! I have just found it and will continue to follow this demonstration of enthusiasm and good humor, persistence and patience.
Regarding French pronunciation, I am very bad at it as well. However, that has never stopped me. I have learned that if you make the effort to greet people (French and others) courteously in their language, they will tend to overlook the shortcoming and return your courtesy.
Earlier above you suggested that I might know Scott Hahn, who will be leading your pilgrimage next year to the Holy Land. I do not.
I have since Googled his name to learn that he is a theologian/apologist teaching at Franciscan University in Steubenville, OH, which is about two hours from where I live. I was in Steubenville only once, about 25 years ago.
With his qualifications, Prof. Hahn sounds like an appropriate guide for a tour/pilgrimage to the Holy Land.
Oh, so I am not the only one speaking appalling French! My French is absolutely terrible but I do lobe Paris!
I am continuing to enjoy this report (apart from the snarky comments)
I have a client who is a nun who was granted indefinite leave to care for her 90 year old mother. She showed me the letter from the Abbess granting her permission to leave. I am not Catholic so I know little about these issues, but I see no reason to doubt Pellegrina's story- I think it has the ring of authenticity ( and yes, Marija, I have read her other posts)
Pellegrina, thank you for writing this, it's fascinating.
I have a few minutes before my taxi arrives to take me to the station.
Thankyou for the commiserations regarding French. I think I'm inventing a new language because every time I want to say 'Oui', 'Su' automatically comes out followed quickly by the correction. The result is something like seaweed without the D.
PARIS Continued....
Stanislaus who works at the reception at Maison Eyrmard said to me "Be very careful at Montmartre, the people there aren't like the people walking around outside here". When a Parisian warns you to be careful, you take heed. So it was with some degree of trepidation that I exited the metro station of Anvers.
You walk uphill past a short street of shops selling cheap goods and there are a few cafes. I knew this visit would be very special but I really wasn't prepared for the level of emotion that I was about to have. Even now my eyes are watering and there's a lump in my throat as I write this.
The Basilica of Montmartre doesn't come into view until you get towards the end of the short row of shops, then all of a sudden a cascade of white looms up before you. It was brilliant even though the day was grey and drizzly. All of a sudden, the recollection and memory of all that I had read about Marie Adele Garnier's struggles filled my mind. Hers was an enormous journey filled with pain, suffering, joys and ecstasies. She was 60 years old before she was finally able to arrive at Montmartre to make the new foundation which was our Congregation. She had been once before a few decades earlier and had to suffer the heartbreak of illness and failure.
As I walked up the steps towards the Basilica I felt as if I was experiencing a fraction of what she must have felt walking on that momentous day towards the same holy place. These thoughts and emotions were mingled with my own struggles in these last few difficult years. How beautiful, how wonderful, how consoling the Basilica looks when you recall these things. " Come to me, all who labour and are heavily burdened, and I will give you rest". These were the words of our Blessed Saviour coming from His most Sacred Heart.
pelligrina - on our last visit to Paris, we too went to the Sacre Coeur on a pilgrimage of our own so that DH could see the place that he had visited on a school trip when he was 14.
We were lucky enough to arrive when a service was taking place and [sadly unlike many of those who were visiting at the same time] sat down and listened in silence to the lovely music. We really enjoyed our visit and DH was thrilled to revisit a place that had made a big impression on him in his youth.
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Im proud to say that I pell's younger sister, and can reassure everyone that everything she is posting is true ! Cloistered life is not an easy thing, an to have seen how my sister gave up absolutely everything upon entering ( at her own free will) is something that I know that very few people in this world as it is could do. So bare in mind, that after living a cloistered life for over 18 yrs , wouldnt you go nuts to see as much as possible! The internet and smart phones is new to her - we just take it for granted cos its part of our everyday lives, not for the benedictines! Some havent even seen or heard of The Sound of Music because they entered so young. Thank you to all those who are posting positive and less judgemental messages to my sister. Just take it as it is, a woman who has lived a very different life to the rest of us. Cloistered life does exist and once you see just how they live, you will surely understand.
I love your story! Did you stay in the convent connected to Sacre Coeur when you were in Paris? My husband and I did and met a wonderful priest on retreat. We've also stayed at convents and monasteries all over Europe! We love the atmosphere, especially if they have enclosed gardens. There were nuns on retreat at one of the monasteries. We also knew that the nuns watched tv in the evenings at one in Venice. Most of them had computers too. How long did you work at the travel agency and was it in Australia? How old were you when you joined your order? If you ever visit Kentucky, we would love to meet you!
Oops, I just saw that you told us where you stayed in Paris:
"I stayed at the Maison Eyrmard, the place where St Peter Julian Eyrmard lies. It is one of the cheapest places to stay in Paris but the location is outstanding, right near the Arc du Triomph." I don't know any French but my husband was able to understand and speak a little, which is good, because the sisters couldn't speak any English. I have taken Italian and could communicate somewhat with the Italian sisters in Rome at the convent where we stayed.
Hi Pelligrina,
Just wondering how the rest of your trip is going. I hope you haven't been discouraged from continuing your report by one or two cynics on this board. Most of us are following along with appreciation, and hoping for an update soon. I hope you are enjoying the south of France and that all is well with you.
yes, where are you? we would love an update.
Hello Fodorites,
Can't believe I've been back in Australia for 3 weeks already and as expected very busy. The last 2 weeks in France was with limited internet access. So, it has been about 5 weeks since my last post. Now I am back where I started in more ways than one. In order to ensure that this trip is recorded I need to turn to my travelling friends again and have succumbed once more to the digital age.
PARIS cont'd...
When I entered the Basilica at Montmartre,I felt a strong sense of familiarity about the place. Perhaps because I had read so much about our foundress, Marie Adele's experiences. The sisters who you see singing and praying in the Basilica once were apart of our order. Their foundress is also Marie Adele but they do not seem to recognise this. They seperated from our congregation during WWII but their habit is still very similar to ours. It was a little bit strange seeing and hearing them sing, they were like our sisters and yet not, more like cousins.
I left the Basilica with my heart full and overflowing, what an incredible experience it was to be in that place. It was now raining fairly heavily and I went to look for one of the famous cafes around Montmartre to have lunch. Funny enough I didn't choose a cafe that looked out onto the Basilica because it was too crowded. I found instead a nice little cafe on the main street near the metro. There was a 12 euro special offered for two courses. The first was probably the nicest cabbage meal I have ever tasted. The cabbage was covered in a delicious cheese sauce. The second course was a beef dish and again it was amazing. If this was a simple French lunch special I wondered what a posh meal was like.
After lunch I found an information centre and the gentleman there kindly told me what stops to change at to get to 40 Rue du Bac, the place where St Catherine Laboure is laid to rest. There were many pilgrims there praying in the Church including a large group of Philipino pilgrims.I kept bumping into this group on my travels through Paris. The area surrounding Rue du Bac is quite attractive. The shops and cafes are more varied with a notable absence of those stores selling gaudy trinkets. It seemed to be a place where locals not tourists dwelt. If I am able to get the pilgrimage together it would be an ideal place to stay.
After leaving Rue du Bac I decided to take the metro home via Gare Montparnasse then Gare de Lyon. This was because of the most anxious part of my journey which would be in a few days time. I would have only 1 hour to get from Montparnasse to Gare de Lyon to catch a train for which I had reserved seats.It also was a good opportunity to spend a few minutes familiarising myself with the two large stations especially Gare du Lyon as it has 3 seperate areas from where trains depart. I found these train station reconnaissance very helpful.
When I eventually arrived home I had dinner in my room at Maison Eymard. One of the excellent tips I received from my travel agent was to bring along a travel hot water jug. So I had a packet of Chinese noodles which cooked in boiling water inside a collapsable silicon bowl which I purchased in Australia. These little contraptions helped save quite a few Euros as far as meals are concerned not to mention providing that rare "cuppa tea" which is a little foreign to the petit dejeuner in France.
After the simple supper I discovered it was a long, long, long walk from Avenue du Friedland to the Eiffel Tower. I persevered as far as the Seine River and even crossed the bridge but it was too dark to go any further. However it was beautiful from where I was standing and I took some lovely photos of the tower all lighted up from where I was. Then after the long walk back I packed my luggage a little nervously. Tomorrow I would be going to places which were off the beaten track.
Pellegrina - I've been reading your report off and on now for some weeks and I feel bad for not having left a comment so let me just say your report is wonderful and you've managed to give us all a look at France from your unique perspective. Wonderful writing and lots of wonderful places that you've visited.
well being nervous and knowing you got home must feel good
The weekday lunch times specials are a very good way fill up in France and Italy.
So other than feeling a little crowded, what did you think of the Chapel, Pelligrina? I ask because it holds a special place in my heart. My father (who had only been to Paris briefly after WWII, Army) was fascinated by the Chapel based on some things he had read about it. He was very religious. The only thing he asked me to do during my college semester abroad in Paris was to visit the Chapel, which I did and recounted to him, along with pamphlets, etc. I've been back since mainly to pay homage to him (he passed away some time ago). I generally find it a peaceful, quiet and reflective place. Unfortunately, it appears it wasn't that way for you!
Btw, what FMT said. I've been enjoying your report, but hadn't posted yet - so thanks for sharing.
Saint Catherine Labouré was not the only person to visit in the neighborhood. Here is my report about visiting two saints just a few minutes apart, and I'm not even a believer: http://tinyurl.com/5rljpfn
Looking forward to more!
ttt
Ohhh Kerouac, it was an "if I only knew" moment when I looked up your trip. St Vincent de Paul would have been a wonderful saint to visit and he was only a few minutes away.
YankyGal, it was very touching to hear about your experiences in the Chapel.It's not surprising that your father found the chapel fascinating, many soldiers did because of the miraculous medal.
To explain my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous medal would have necessitated a long explanation, so I opted not to say anything.Perhaps this was wrong. The explanation, although long, will also help understand the other places in France that I have visited and why they were so important to me. Fodorites are more than welcome to skip this part if they wish.
RUE DU BAC again...
You meet some very intersting people when you live in a Benedictine monastery. When I was last in our newest monastery in New Zealand, our community was introduced to a man with the first name of Harley (I've forgotten his surname). He turned out to be the man who trained all the horses in the Lord of the Rings. He related some fascinating stories about him and his wife having to teach the actors how to ride bare back, which actors were good and which actors didn't even try. He told us that the horse who played Shadowfax was bought at El Caballo Blanco which is near Sydney. So much effort and energy and planning went into making a movie masterpiece.
The planning and the painstaking detail that went into the making of the Lord of the Rings add to the greatness of the movie.We Catholics believe that there was an incredible amount of preparation, energy and planning to the finest detail for the birth of Christ at Bethlehem. In fact, it began at the beginning of time. We see this in Genesis 3:15 when "The Woman and her seed" is mentioned. The design was there. Christ is the New Adam and Mary is the New Eve.
Catholics don't worship Mary. Just as the Jews honour Moses as the bearer of the 10 commandments, not as the author, God is the author, so Catholics honour Mary as the bearer of Christ, and not His creator.St Paul says that we should imitate Christ. Christ fulfilled the law perfectly. So we imitate Christ in His obedience to the 4th commandment - 'Honour your father and your mother". So Catholics, as adopted brothers and sisters of Christ, honour our mother - Mary.
In Exodus 30: 1-7 we see the amount of detail that were in God's instructions to the Israelites for the making the Ark of the Covenant.The amount of work that went into creating the Ark gives glory to what it holds. Inside the Ark was placed the tablets of the Covenant and some pieces of the manna. When the Babylonians invaded Israel the Ark dissappeared. So at the time when the Book of Revelations was written, the Ark of the Covenant had not been seen for 500 years. So when St John said at the end of Revelation 11 that he saw the Ark of the Covenant, the Jews would have been stunned.John describes in Revelation 12 what the Ark of the Covenant looked like, it was "...a woman clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet, and upon her head a crown of twelve stars:And she being with child cried, travailing in birth, and pained to be delivered.
Catholics believe that Mary is the Ark of the Covenant, she bears the Word of God, and the true manna, the true bread from Heaven. Just as there was a great deal of work and craftsmanship that went into making the Ark in Moses time,so there was an extraordinary amount of craftsmanship that went into creating the true Ark of the Covenant - Mary.She was planned from the beginning of time, to bear God's own Son.The amount of work that went into creating the Ark gives glory to what it holds.
Catholics don't believe that people are less alive when they leave this earth, in fact they believe that if they are with God they are even more alive.So the saints can pray for us if we ask them just as our friend can pray for us if we ask them. We also believe that God can do anything.
The veil between Heaven and Earth can sometimes be very thin. In 1830, St Catherine Laboure reported that the Virgin Mary appeared to her in the Chapel at Rue du Bac. Apparitions of the Blessed Virgin Mary are part of the Church's history. The first apparition occured in 40AD after the Resurrection. It was to St James the Apostle at Pillar in Spain. He had been preaching and was greatly discouraged when Our Lady appeared to him.
When Our Lady appeared to St Catherine she asked her to have a medal struck with the words "O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee." Moses was asked to cover the Ark in pure gold (Exodus 30:3). Christ washed away our sins through baptism. Catholics believe that Mary was preserved from Original Sin by God, in order that Christ could dwell in her womb.
The medal that was made after the apparition became known as the Miraculous Medal. It was known as this because there was and still are many miracles that have been associated with the medal. There are many stories of miraculous protection of soldiers who wore the medal.But the most common miracle is that of conversion.
So, yes, the Chapel of the Miraculous medal was a special place to be, a very moving place to be.Peaceful and gentle.It serves as a reminder that God has not forgotten His people. He proves His love by sending His own Son and then the Son shows His love by sending His own mother. There are so many great mysteries that can enter your mind like a flash of light and the light fills the soul.
Very interesting - thanks for sharing that!
I JUST began to read your post today, and like many others, I say "Thank You".
CHARTRES
I was supposed to catch the 9.06 regional train from Montpanasse to Chartres (my destination was actually Laval)but being a little nervous for my first long train ride in France I arrived an hour early, 3 minutes before the early train to Chartres. So I jumped on it. There wasn't much room for luggage but the train was full of commuters going to work so I had plenty of room to store my luggage. I wish we had trains like that in Sydney, it was so clean and comfortable and even though it was peak hour it was very relaxing.Most of the passengers alighted after 2 or 3 stops.
The countryside outside Paris is beautiful and I kept thinking of those old 1940's war movies as we passed fields and forests and farms. It's a pity that there are so many trees planted along the railway tracks as it blocks the view and ruins photos.
I arrived at Chartres just after 9am so of course it was very quiet around town.I expected that there would be a baggage drop at the station for me to store my wheeled luggage.To my dismay there wasn't but I got sympathetic looks from the female station attendant. So on a drizzly morning in the quiet part of Chartres, the locals saw a short,lone, lady wearing a purple rain jacket dragging her luggage behind her.
Did you know wheeled luggage sounds like a train when it is wheeled over cobblestones? I wasn't really aware of it until I got to Chartres. DoongDoong DoongDoong DoongDoong all the way up to the famous Chartres Cathedral. I only passed two people on my way but I was acutely aware that I was probably waking up some of the local residents.I found a shop that serviced facilities and asked if they had a luggage drop, no. Then I asked where the tourist information centre was hoping that they would take luggage. I asked for directions and was sent down a long street with big cobblestones which seemed to amplify the train sound. Couldn't find it, then I asked a gentleman and he kindly directed me back down the way I came, so the train went down the road again. I tried a third time and this time the train circled the town square, more people out and about now and all of them staring at the train going round in circles and up and down. I gave up and trained it back to the Cathedral.
Chartres is a beautiful town and I highly recommend a visit here if possible. Maybe we can all sign a petition to have a baggage drop opened at the station. It is ideal for a day visit or as a stop along the way. The old part of town is medieval and the Cathedral is too, I read that it is one of the most perfectly preserved medieval churches in Europe and the stain glass rose windows are an exquisite example of medieval artistry. It certainly is a fascinating building. I spent quite a long time outside just looking before I stepped inside.
Did you know that the attendants in the Cathedral don't mind luggage either and that the stone floor of the Church is bumpy enough to make wheeled luggage sound like a small train? So for the next hour or so it sounded like there was a slow small train travelling around inside Chartres Cathedral. I was told by my travel agent about the labyrinth on the floor of Chartres Cathedral. The distance of the labyrinth from the entrance matches the distance of the rose window from the floor. So if the wall of the rose window were to cave in, it would land directly on top of the Labyrinth. I found another attendant at the back of the Cathedral, he put his finger up and I thought he was going to say "No you can't leave your luggage" but I spoke first and asked what time the Mass was. He was genuinely surprised as if he had never been asked that question before. Then he grinned broadly and noticed the medal around my neck. There was a 12pm Mass down in the crypt but the entrance was outside at the side of the Cathedral.
I still had some time left and sat for a while on the steps under a large archway for the side entrance. The archways are amazing, there is a flurry of extremely intricate stone carvings that cover the archways of the doors. I spent ages just looking at all the carvings and its detail. Around the back of the Church is a gorgeous garden with a beautiful building that looked to me to be about 17th century (I'm not an expert on architecture). The view from the wall of the garden was magnificent, it seemed that all of Chartres was below. There was a giant fir tree and as there was no one about I left my luggage there for a bit to scout around.
It was time for Mass and I found an obscure looking wooden door that led to the crypt. This was so incredible. It seemed very ancient down inside. There were some fading frescoes but most of it was stone. The simplicity and yet beauty of the crypt enchanted me. This was a place where probably the locals only knew of. For some reason I kept thinking of WWII and how possibly the resistance or some allied spies may have at one time hidden themselves in this secret space under the Cathedral. The place began to fill with devoted locals and a beautiful Mass was said.
After Mass I only had a short time for lunch before catching my train. Across the street was a little inn. It started to rain. I did not realise it at the time but this was the beginning of the rains that caused the flooding in Lourdes. The inn was rather cute and was run by a family. I was shown a blackboard and there was a lunch special. I had no idea what I was reading and the waiter smiled and pointed to a dish saying "This is local and is a very popular local dish". So I ordered that. It was a French omelette and probably the most delicious omelette I've ever tasted. It doesn't sound like much, eggs, cheese, bacon and potatoes but my goodness I've never tasted an omelette like that.
So I farewelled Chartres very happy and very full and my luggage and I noisily made our way back down to the train station. Next stop Le Mans and then Laval.
Still wonderful Pelligrina. Interesting you mentioned WWII and the cathedral since that brings to mind an interesting story. The allies were on the outskirts of town and were planning on dislodging the Germans, who occupied the town. The allies suspected the Germans were hiding in the church and using the tower as a way to spot them so they were planning on bombing the cathedral as a precautionary measure. The bravery of a certain American Colonel Welborn Griffith saved the cathedral. I found a letter on-line from a relative of this colonel recounting the events and it's such a great story I'm going to copy and paste the letter here:
"My wife’s maternal grandfather was a colonel in the U.S. Army in WWII. They were closing in on Chartres from the southwest, and they came under heavy artillery fire from the Germans in the town. An order was issued to shell the cathedral on the assumption that the Germans were using the tower to locate the Allied forces. My wife’s grandfather questioned the strategy of taking out the cathedral on a hunch and volunteered to go behind enemy lines to find out whether the Germans really were occupying the cathedral. His offer was accepted, and he found himself climbing the cathedral tower alone, not knowing whether an enemy unit was a step or turn away. After finding the tower unoccupied, he rejoined his forces, reporting that the cathedral was clear. The order to shell the cathedral was withdrawn, and the Allies took the town. During the gunfight, my wife’s grandfather was killed. He is buried in St. James Cemetery in Brittany.
The locals somehow pieced together the story I have just recounted, and, for many years, they recognized his bravery in saving their cathedral with a plaque on a sidewalk in Lèves (on the outskirts of Chartres) where he was killed. The only problem was that they did not know how to read American dog tags. His name was Welborn Griffith (so one could forgive their not knowing which was a first name and which a last name), but they got the names reversed, and his plaque read “Griffith Welborn.” For nearly 50 years, the story about the cathedral was unknown to his family in the U.S. because of this mistake — and would have remained unknown had it not been for a historian in Lèves who maintains a small World War II museum there.
In the mid-1990s, this historian, Monsieur Papillon, realized the mistaken reversal of Colonel Griffith’s names and, upon correcting the mistake, located his only living descendant — my mother-in-law in Jacksonville, Fla. With the aid of a translator, he contacted her and told her the story of her father and Chartres Cathedral. Soon thereafter, a ceremony was held at the cathedral to honor the officer who had seen fit to question the order to bomb the cathedral, and my wife’s family was truly touched when they played “The Star-Spangled Banner” — right in the cathedral. The plaque has been corrected, and a park has been dedicated in his honor."
That is most certainly a frissons-inducing story - thanks, FMT!
Neat FMT.
Just stumbled across this charming wander.
Saving for a read later on today. Thanks so much for putting digit to keyboard!
I do hope there is more to come.
Pellegrina: i have finally caught up with you on your journey. I too, like Kerouac, hope there is more to come. Thank you for this road less traveled.
Wow. I have been away from Fodors for a long time and return to find this fascinating story. I hope you continue, Pelligrina, and I hope other Fodorites continue to add to it.
Fascinating.
I'm enjoying this report so much! Wonderful writing! We loved Chartres and also went to mass down in the crypt. After that we went a short way out of town to visit a stained glass studio and the artist whose father made the stained glass windows for our Cathedral here in Lexington, Kentucky, USA! My husband has since then made some very similar windows for the Eucharistic chapel which was built onto the Cathedral. We loved France!
Hope you can open this. There are pictures at the top of the windows my husband built.
http://zeiglerglass.com/www.zeiglerglass.com/HOME.html
Pelligrina, thanks for a lovely and unusual story. I hope that you will be able to continue!
FMT, thanks you for sharing your story of the saving of Chartres cathedral. So much was lost in that war! It is a privilege to hear stories about the heroism of those who saved some beauty.
Pelligrina - While reading your report it felt like I was traveling with you. Please keep on writing! I am enjoying your journey.
FMT - that story gave me goosebumps. Thanks for sharing.