Your pictures are lovely. I love how green everything look in April. If I ever get the chance to return to Cusco-SV-MP then I'd definitely do it in the spring. I really enjoyed your people pictures; I'm always afraid to stick my camera into people faces, lol.

Really nice slide show. Loved the music that went along with pics. Looking forward to more details. My trip is all planned for Sept.

Axel2DP--Don't be afraid to get really close to your subjects. Especially in a place like Peru where you give them a soles or two for their trouble. I always go with of the words of the legendary war photographer Robert Capa: "If your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough."

Close-ups are the only thing that make your photographs different.

Oh, and the lovely "shades of green" you see in my photos come with a downside--you really risk rain--and lots of it. We were so very lucky with rain only at night, although there was a landslide on our way back from AC that kept us sitting on the train tracks for 3 hours. But it was the "backpacker" train with lots of interesting, fun people, so even that was all good. The rain had been torrential all night jsut before the landslide. Mid may to mid june is probably best balance of weather/crowds.

Loving your photos..and this caption
"since I was the only foreigner who has bought a candle in the last century, the caretaker said I could take a photo"

That is quite a start to the trip... can't wait for the rest, sorry about the elbow!

WOW! Your photos (and captions) are wonderful. Made me feel I was there again.

I also loved Peru, and need to post my report.

One thing I noticed from seeing our pics, taken only a few weeks after yours, is the difference in colors. By May 13, the grass in the plaza in front of the Chinchero church was a very dull green.

We were picked up at the Cusco airport by a Peru for Less representative and met our guide in Cusco. We arrived in Cusco We had a very comfortable mini-van type vehicle and a great driver. Our guide, whose name is Maria amanca Flores, was funny, informative and engaging. She was our guide for the Sacred Valley and Cusco. I could not have asked for a better guide. We had a different guide for MP and he was great as well. On the way from the airport we stopped at the Awanakancha Weaving Cooperative. I was underwhelmed and could have skipped it.

We then proceeded to the Pisac ruins. They are gorgeous terraces with wonderful vistas of the valley below. I was able to take some nice photos. I was still feeling a bit under the weather, but climbed to the top and was glad I did. After the Pisac ruins, we went to our hotel.

We stayed at the Aranwa Sacred Valley Resort. This is a simply gorgeous hotel resort. The grounds are spectacular, the rooms wonderful and the staff accommodating. So, what could be wrong with it? It is in the middle of nowhere down a muddy, long road. Once you are there, you are there. Oh, and we were the ONLY people at the hotel. I'm serious. There may have been one or two other people, but we only saw them in the distance. (this property is HUGE) . It's creepy when you are the only people in the hotel. We should have stayed in Olly at the Hotel Pakaritampu, but for a host of reasons we didn't. It wasn't such a big deal because you are hardly in the hotel anyway, but I should have listened and gone for locality rather than luxury. Live and learn.

So, after a very nice night's sleep in our wonderfully comfy beds we had breakfast and met our guide at 8:30AM. The first stop was the Ollantaytambo. We wandered through the town for an hour or so, particularly the Incan era homes that are still inhabited. I loved this walk. I suggest everyone spend plenty of time in Olly itself, not just the ruins. We then walked over to the ruins and we were just about the only people there--it was fabulous. The weather was cool and sunny. I did get a tad winded climbing the steps, but recovery was quick and the view from the top was fabulous. It was Sunday, so our next stop was the Pisac market. We had a great time wandering about. I bought a gorgeous silver necklace--very big and chunky and Italian looking. I also bought some small oil paintings for my sister (I buy street art for her in every country) and some natural paint dyes for her as well. We just wandered around for a couple hours. We bought one of the massive ears of corn from a vendor to see what it tasted like. It was pretty bland and flavorless so I only took a couple bites. However, one must try everything (cuy coming later...)

Around 4PM we went back to our hotel to relax and enjoy our private resort. It really is a lovely place. they have art galleries, theaters, chapels, Incan museums, original spanish mansions, you name it. We wandered around the property for an hour and the weather was perfect. We had tea, an early dinner of fabulous Sushi (they have a sushi chef who does Peruvian fusion sushi.) and went to bed.

Regarding altitude. We both took diamox. I had no problems with altitude except an occasional headache. I'm not a headache person at all, so I know it was altitude induced. However, a couple advil took care of it. I'm glad we took the diamox.

The next morning, we got up very early as we were doing chinchero, Maras, Moray and then getting a 1:30 train to MP. Busy day!

Maras was interesting. What a road you have to travel to get there! Whoa. Can you say "drop off"? We were the only people there, so again, it was fun to have the whole place to yourself. If I had to cut something in the trip, it would have been Maras, but I'm glad I went since we had the time. The place that absolutely fascinated me was Moray. I found the history of this Incan laboratory to be fascinating and awe-inspiring. I think everyone should make a point to see Moray--the intelligence and precision of the Inca civilization is mind boggling.

Last stop that morning was Chinchero. Oh, how I loved Chinchero! The people, the vistas, the quality of workmanship. I only wish we would have gone to chinchero on Sunday to see their market rather than the one in Pisac. From what I have been told it is more authentic than Pisac. I bought some wonderful things at the weaving cooperative, enjoyed walking around and had the best weaving demonstration anywhere!

Thanks mlgb for making sure I got to Chinchero. it was you who made me change my itinerary--I would have been so sad to have missed it.

From Chinchero, we worked our way back down to Olly where we were dropped off to catch a 1:30 Vistadome to AC. The road to the station was closed for some reason and you had to walk to the station ( we had carry on. Our luggage was sent to our hotel in Cusco). However between all my camera equipment and carryon, it was fairly heavy. No one told us that we would have to walk on stone paths for over 25 minutes to get to the train.(where are those porters when you need them?) I kept saying to Louise, "this better be the right way or I'm going to be really ticked" There was no one else around so I had this nagging sense that something was wrong. However, we did arrive at the train station with time to spare. A conductor told us to wait in the waiting room and he would let us know when we could get on the train. i thought it was nice that he was being so solicitous. About ten minutes later, the conductor comes into the waiting room and picks up our luggage and puts it on the train. Wow, I thought. This is service. We had the seats in the very front of the train (as you can see by my photos). My carryon was on the luggage rack and I asked if I could move it forward to an empty seat. The answer was "put it anywhere. The train is yours". I laughed and moved my bag up. Two minutes later, the train started to move. He wasn't kidding. We were the ONLY passengers on the train. Louise and I, the driver, the switch guy, and three train attendants. Needless to say, we got great service and I was able to take pictures out any window I wanted to. One of the attendants stayed up by us and gave us a one hour guided tour of the countryside. Fun.

The river was raging! The rainy season wasn't abating at all and all trains were leaving from Olly. One fellow said "the tail end of the rainy season is a bushy tail" .

We arrived in AC around 3:15. Two men from the Inka Terra were waiting for us, carried our luggage and walked us to the hotel about five minutes away. We checked in, were given an upgrade from a Junior suite to a deluxe junior suite (I have no idea what the difference is) because it was my birthday (remember everyone--this was my birthday at MP : ) . Our room was great--exactly what it should be--rustic luxury (I have posted photos on Trip Advisor) We relaxed, walked around AC (for what it's worth), and then went in for our complimentary Pisco Sour (can't get enough of those). They also have a lovely free afternoon tea with the teas that come from the Inka terra plantation. Stunningly good teas. Seriously fabulous--and I'm not a big tea person. but I digress--back to the Pisco Sour.....

When we were in the Inka terra bar, we met an English couple who had been up to MP that day. they were on a seven week trip and MP was their last stop before heading home. They said they had gone up to MP that morning and stayed up there all day in hopes of the cloud ceiling lifting. their exact words were "you couldn't see your hand in front of your face all day". My heart just sunk. All this way, all this planning, my birthday and there was a good chance I wouldn't see MP. But, what are you going to do. You hope for the best.

Dinner was included in the rate at the hotel and was really good. At the end of dinner, they brought over a little birthday cake with a candle. Louise said, "are you going to make a wish?" I replied "there is only one thing I'm going to wish for....sun on MP tomorrow".

We then walked back to our bungalow and went to bed with our fireplace fire and with the rain pouring down.....

Next install...Machu Piccu.

So glad you liked Chinchero and Olly. I try to sing Olly's praises as a spot to stay as often as I can. Some of my favorite moments of my trip were there..walking down to their Inca Bridge and meeting a little girl and her brother who asked where I was going, seeing an old lady just sitting and spinning by the side of the road, sharing sauco berries with one of the archaeologists inside the ruins, getting laughed at by kids walking uphill into town.

i just looked back and it was 1982 when we went to peru...

things were much more simple then.... the trains were old to MP---maybe mr bingham left them behind... there was no town of MP, just one building for the train station. buses up to the ruins with poor road bed and cliff hanging turns. the ruins themselves look the same, maybe tended a bit better these days.

cusco was a dangereous city in those days.... petty theft was common esp. in the train station. a 5+ year old kid tried to rob me on the main street.

your pics are fantastic, of course... the music sets the mood..

thanks

btw, i am still waiting for lcuy's other trip reports..

Thanks Bob, I would love to see some pictures from 1982 with AC not even there! It is nice to be able to spend the night and relax. A one day trip from Cusco is pretty exhausting.

Boston Harbour I really love your pics what camera did you use since I will be going to cusco ending july and am debating what camera to buy. Also what are the soundtracks name they are absolutely lovely. The pictures have really moved me emotionaly since going to machu pichu is a dream come true.

Otmar, I'm thrilled you enjoyed my photos. I have a Nikon D90. I had three lenses on my trip: a Nikor 10-24 wide age, a Nikor 18-200 as well as a Nikor fisheye for fun. I love my D90. My 10-24 lens is my absolute favorite lens and the one I used most at MP. If you read my other post on how to take a MP panorama by stitching photos together (just click on my name and you'll find it), you can get some really fabulous panorama photos even if you don't have a wide angle. You can do it with a point and click if you want. It's really easy.

Even though I have now turned into a camera addict, I have taken some of my favorite photos with a point and click. That is all I had in India and they are some of my favorite photos. Take a look at what you can do with a good point and click: photos.patpom.com/2358069. It is more about framing and visioning than the camera.

You will LOVE your trip. I'm jealous. I would love to be going back in July!

Lastly, the music is from a CD I bought in Cusco. This group was playing at the Tunupa Restaurant in Plaza des Armas and they were so good I bought their album. they have a number of them. Mine is "Musica Andina Tradicional" I found it much more refined than the standard music you hear on the street. The group is Viento Y Fuego (they have a Facebook page).

Have a fabulous time and remember to post when you return and let us know how your trip was.

Wow, congratulations on the quick thinking at the airport. Do you think it was the food on LAN that caused the problem?

Sounds like you were really, really lucky to have so few other people around. A trip to SA is nearing the top of my list, I had heard about Olly but not Chinchero.

Thanks for posting that other link, love your photos. I agree that sometimes the point and shoot gets you better photos, especially of people. I think it is less intimidating to the subject, and good for candid photos in places like markets. Some of the point and shoots do very well on wide angle, as well.

My Excellent Purchases!

As everyone on the Asia board knows, I'm quite the shopper. I love to ferret out quality and buy a couple really nice things. I love my purchases from Peru. I bought two STUNNING necklaces--both in Silver. One I bought from a shop in Picsac Market and the other from a very high end jewelry store in Cusco named Ilaria (il-lar-ia) . http://www.ilariainternational.com/ It is in the Plaza des Armas and I would highly recommend it. it isn't cheap, but it is a fraction of what you would pay in the US. One of my pieces is a choker type and the other a longer "weapon looking" thing ; )

The box from Illaria is just as nice as the jewelry (thus it is in the photo)

Here is a photo of my treasures : ) http://snips.ly/necklaces

Like I actually needed two more necklaces, LOL

I also didn't need more scarves and shawls, but.....I can't help it. The alpaca is so soft.

BostonHarbor, your photos are just amazing! I feel like I should say which sequence I like best, but it's just too hard to choose! Thanks for posting them and for writing about your trip. I'm going in November (also from Boston!) and your report is giving me lots of ideas.

Sasha

I hope you'll come back and tell us more about your drive thru in Lima. We have a 7.5 hour layover there and need to figure out best way to pass the time.

Love your jewelry purchases.

Machu Picchu!

Given the pouring rain, we decided that we weren't going to try to get up to MP early. We were staying over at the Inka Terra again that night, so we could stay until the last bus. We had a wake up call for 6:30 and when I woke up I didn't hear rain. Not only did I not hear rain, I saw a brightness outside the skylight windows in our room. Is it possible? Did the birthday fairies grant my wish of sun? We walked over to have breakfast and although it wasn't sunny, it wasn't raining, and the day looked hopeful.

We met our guide at Inka Terra reception, walked through AC to the bus and started our switchback route to MP. That first feeling that you have when you see MP from the bus is quite fabulous.

We got off the bus, walked through the ticket gate (Note: you need to take your passport with you to MP as they ask to see it at the ticket kiosk). We immediately climbed up to the caretaker's hut and then climbed higher. As we turned and looked over at the city of Machu Picchu, it was so spectacular, it took your breath away. The sun was shining, the clouds were gorgeous, and there were hardly any people. A Machu Picchu hat trick. : )

I had hired a guide who understood photography and appreciated what I wanted to do in terms of vistas, angles, and detail. He was great and took us places that you would never go on your own. It was fabulous and I couldn't have been happier with my photos.

We were given a historical tour of the ruins for about two hours. Around 11:30 the guide suggested that we should have lunch. Neither Louise or I are lunch people, but the guide then said that he thought it was going to rain for a while and we should go to the Sanctuary and have lunch. I looked around and it was still beautiful out, but our guide lives there and knows more than we do about MP weather, so we decided to go to the hotel. He said he would meet us at 1:30.

We got down to the Sanctuary around noon. There is only one lunch option, a $36 buffet, so that's what we did. No sooner did we sit down then it started to rain pretty hard. We had a nice lunch--the buffet is quite good, even if we weren't even that hungry. It was raining and we were dry. We considered it just an expensive shelter.

As we were drinking coffee and finishing lunch around 1:20, the sun suddenly came out. It was surreal. Our guide actually knew when the rain was going to start and stop.

We headed back up to MP and continued our tour for about the next 45 minutes. At that point, I really wanted to do MP by myself and get into the nooks and crannies and Louise wanted to see the Inca Bridge. So, I sent Louise off with the guide to the Inca bridge and I spent two glorious hours by myself wandering around the east side of Machu Picchu. I discovered caves and went out on ledges. I was in places where I didn't see another soul--I was heaven. I took 1000 pictures that day and I have saved you the pain of seeing them all by paring them down to about 50 in the MP slideshow I posted in the first post above (it wasn't easy ; )

My llama photos were pretty funny. I was alone with a group of them on the lower east terraces. Just me and the llamas. So many people have these wonderful, ethereal, photos of the mountains in the distance and the llamas in the foreground, head erect, looking out. Let me tell you, these are all staged! All these llamas want to do is eat. Their heads are always down in the grass, or alternately they are lying down--neither of which are "ethereal" poses. So, the llamas and I had a few "conversations" down there in at the bottom of the terraces. LOL. I got a few cute pictures of them, but I have around 50 really dumbs ones. Llamas are exhausting.

So, after I photographed every single stone at Machu Picchu, it was time to head back to AC--a perfect day was had by all.

We arrived in the AC and I took a video of the raging river where it was washed out last year: http://snips.ly/8KG6 If you haven't been to MP, watch this video. This river doesn't mess around. It is a serious raging river.

Headed up the hill to the Inka Terra exhausted and happy. We called the front desk because we couldn't get a fire started (failed girl scouts), it was so damp. A young guy came to our room and started the most wonderful fire. We loaded wood on it so that it would still be burning when we got back from dinner. We stepped out to dinner to monsoon rain--we just wore sneakers and rain gear as that was the only reasonable thing to wear with the walk to the dining room. Dinner was great, but the wi-fi went dead because Internet doesn't work when you have a satellite dish and monsoon rain. Oh, well, at least we have a fire.

Back to the room. Fire still going and we didn't set the entire complex on fire (not that it could burn anyway when everything is soaking wet). They put these big cauldron of reddish brew to put on logs in the fire to get it going. It was so damp, we pulled in all the wood from outside the door (there is an overhang) and brought in the "brew". It smells like oil and I'm sure it will give you mesothelioma if used in excess, but it was so damp, we were cold and we wanted a fire. We used the whole cauldron and we built and awesome fire. It continued to rain torrentially throughout the night, but it lightened up by morning to just a light rain.

Breakfast and walk to the 8:30 AM train. We sat in the waiting room for a bit and heard some people talking in Spanish about the train. I don't speak a lot of spanish, but it isn't very hard to figure out that something is amiss with the train. A young couple told us that there had been a landslide and that the train was delayed at least two hours. Since the hotel was five minutes away, we ask the woman who seemed to be in charge if we should go back to the hotel and hang out there. She said yes, as long as we were back before two hours. We walked back to the hotel and went into the lounge to use our computers. We hadn't been there five minutes when they came in from reception shouting "the train is leaving. Come NOW!" Lord....so we ran back to the train and took our seats. We were on the backpacker train and were sitting backwards which Louise can do, so I went hunting for front facing seats. We found some across the aisle from the young couple who we had met in the station and a family of five scattered about the seats around us. Fortunately, they were great company as about 10 minutes later, the train pulled over to a side track where we sat for three hours while they cleaned up the landslide. Don't ask me why this was a better plan than waiting at the station, but someone thought it was. However, our seat mates were fabulous and the conversation was great. Turned out that one of young guys in the family was a student of my cousin at the University of Portland.

We arrived three hours late in Olly, but Peru for less knew about the landslide and had our driver waiting for us at the train, and had already rearranged our schedule.

Next: Cusco and surrounds.

Hi Jackie, Yes, I will post some photos of Lima and tell you what we did. It is worth a fly-by if you have 7.5 hours. We were fortunately to be there just when they had received the Yale artifacts of Machu Picchu. We went to the exhibit--it was only in Lima for 10 days, so we felt so fortunate. I'll get my Lima photos together.

Cusco and Surrounds

We arrived in Cusco mid afternoon after our landslide adventure on the train. We were taken to the Aranwa Boutique hotel, which is an absolutely stunning, brand new, five star hotel about a two minute walk from the Plaza des Armas. http://www.aranwahotels.com/cusco.php It has an "intelligent oxygen" system piped into the rooms, so sleeping is just wonderful. The setting for breakfast is gorgeous and the breakfast buffet is very nice. They make any type of eggs to order--they are not on the buffet. The prices at the hotel are highly competitive--and for the quality, there is no comparison. The rooms are huge compared to the Monasterio and more luxurious. Check it out if you are looking for a five star--you won't go wrong.

We went to the room to drop off our stuff and immediately took off for a tour of the ruins around Cusco. We toured Sacsayhuaman, the red fortress of Puka Pukara, the Inca Baths at Tambomachay and the temple of Qenqo. The timing was perfect as the late afternoon light was beautiful and I was able to get some great photos of Cusco from the viewing area at Sacsayhuaman. For those who haven't been to Cusco, you get gorgeous panoramas of the city from the overlook at Sacsayhuaman.

That night we had dinner at Chi Chi, famed Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio's restaurant in Cusco. A cuy (guinea pig) appetizer was on the menu, so we decided this would be our chance to eat guinea pig. It was good--served in a high cuisine fashion, and we were able to check cuy off our list. We enjoyed out meal, but it was not as great as we had hoped. I think equal or better food can be found in many other restaurants in Cusco at lower prices.

The next morning was Cusco Museum day. Maria met us at 8:30 AM and we walked Cusco. There are wonderful museums in this city--both Incan and Spanish. We particularly enjoyed the Qoriqancha-Santo Domingo Convent. Qorikancha was the Inca Sun Temple, and the Spanish built Santo Domingo on top of it around 1534. It is the one place where you can really get the sense of Inca presence in the city. Also, the Museo Inka should not be missed. Of course the Cathedral is magnificent. Make sure you are with a guide who can give you the details of the cathedral and it's history, the earthquakes and the mirrors. Fascinating.

We said goodbye to our guide at noon and spent the afternoon and the next day wandering about Cusco by ourselves. I bought some wonderful jewelry http://snips.ly/necklaces and some inexpensive bags for all the girls in my extended family. It is tough finding inexpensive gifts for men in Cusco. Those gourds take up way too much room LOL. We also bought some scarves and sweaters from some nice Alpaca shops. We found the best quality ones in Cusco to be Huma (there are 3-4 of them in Cusco) and Sol Alpaca (there must be ten of them in Cusco). Both are in Plaza des Armas as well as the squares nearby.

BTW, we loved our guide. We were with her for four days and throughly enjoyed our time with her. Her name is Maria Elena Flores and she can be reached at: helenma26@hotmail.com

That night we had dinner at a touristy restaurant on the Plaza, Tunupa, but it worked out to be perfect. Sometimes "touristy" is just fun and lively. The buffet was just good, and the restaurant had a second floor direct view of the Plaza des Armas, and it was the last night for electioneering before the presidential election 48 hours later. Cars loaded with peruvians carrying placards, honking and shouting for the candidates kept circling the plaza. Everyone was in a great mood and the plaza was hopping. We were in the cat bird's seat by the window and it was great. The music that is played on my photo slideshow is from the group that was playing that night--extraordinary musicians.

The next morning, we walked around the city while I continued to take photos, made last minute purchases and relaxed.

We were picked up at the hotel for the short 15 minute ride to the airport for our flight to Lima.

We arrived in Lima with a seven hour layover and so we headed into Lima for a "fly by". I'm getting my Lima photos together and will post the dos and don'ts of a fly-by in my next post.

Next...our Lima "fly by" during a 7 hour layover.

Stunning photos. Thanks.

Absolutely fabulous photos. What site did you use to show the photos/slideshow. It was so nice to have the description of each photo. We will be going next April so love all the information. Machu Picchu is tops of my bucket list.

Idahospud, Thanks, I'm so glad you enjoyed them; I'm flattered. I use a site called Phanfare I have used many sites and find them to be the best. You can find them at www.phanfare.com. Here is a 20% discount code if you are interested in using them: URTXW91NT8 (note: I have no connection with this company whatsoever. I just love their service)

You will LOVE Machu Picchu. It is a great bucket list item : )

Wow, fantastic photographs BostonH! Peru is on my wishlist.

Thanks for the photo site & coupon. I've used Snapfish but people don't like logging in. What type of clothing did you pack? I see post where it says you can't take more than a backpack on trains, buses, etc so what do you do with your suitcase. I'm use to packing in a small bag but that doesn't work when you're packing sweaters, long pants, etc. Sounds like it gets warm enough in May for shorts. We're hiring a guide for our 2 wk trip so imagine he has some answers as well.

I am impressed with your cookie tossing! I'm sure I'll be even more impressed with the photos.

Peru for less escorted you the entire way it seems, dropping you off at the train and then in Cusco for an afternoon on your own, then taking you to the airport.

From your itinerary it appears you devoted a whole day to Machu Picchu.

Thanks for an entertaining report.

Idahospud, who did you hire for your Peru guide?

Idahospud, if you have a guide, they will take your suitcase before you get on the train and deliver it to your next hotel. You can also leave it at the hotel where you are staying before you get on the train. You really only want a small bag for your trip to MP regardless of the train regulations. You'll have to walk from the train to your hotel and who wants to drag a bag? In May you can travel light and you can also just tie a light jacket around your waste. You certainly don't need any "dinner clothes" in AC (or anywhere in Peru except maybe Lima). (however, we saw lots of regular big suitcases and backpacks on the train, so they might just enforce the "bag rule" during the high season)

We were in AC for two nights. We went up to AC in the afternoon of day one, but didn't go all the way up to MP, we stayed in AC for the late afternoon and enjoyed relaxing at our hotel and walking around. The next morning, we got up early and spent the entire day at MP and left for AC on the last bus. We spent the night in AC and caught the 8:30 "backpacker" train the next morning. (note on the "backpacker" train, which is the only train that leaves AC early in the morning, seat 1A and 1B are facing backwards on the left so you don't want those seats. There are tables between seats on the backpacker so almost half the seats are backwards facing.) Remember you want the left side of the train on the way up and the right side on the way back, if possible. The "backpacker" train is just fine. Very comfortable and if you are only going to Olly, it is a lot cheaper and the ride, as long as you don't have a landslide like we did, is only an hour and a half. (23 miles--it is a slow train)

Regarding shorts, many on this forum have had major issues with biting mites at MP (called no-see-ums in the US). I had a friend who was horribly bitten when he went in October. I didn't see or feel one bug when I was there nor did my friend, but light weight pants might be a better choice than shorts.

Peru is very, very casual. You don't need anything for dinner except a a change of clean clothes. I bought two pair of light weight travel pants, some Exofficio shirts, some long sleve t-shirts a pair of black jeans for dinner with a couple tops to wear to dinner, a super light weight rain jacket with hood, and a black Scott "E vest" (vest with lots of pockets) for all my photography gear. That's it.

Atravelynn, I chuckled at your remarks. Yes, It was quite the controlled cookie toss. LOL

Yes, Peru For less escorted us for six days and we had two days on our own. They were great and the quality of both driver and guides were excellent. The van was brand new and spotlessly clean. I was happy and the trip was effortless. However, it would be very easy to do this trip by yourself without a TA. It was just easier for me at the time.

If you did the trip by yourself, would you hire your own guide for the approx 6 days? Or would you just use public transport and taxis? The train part would be the same, I assume.

Hi BostonHarbor -

We are following your advice I need one more piece of info - the name of the photography guide please. Thanks so much!

You would hire your own guides and drivers. For me, public transport is a bit too much work. You can get drivers and guides through local agencies. Why don't you post the question on recommendations for guides/drivers as a new topic. You will get lots of great guide recommendations and info. (there is probably plenty already if you do a search) . A lot of the folks in the forum do the trips on their own. I know Lcuy just got back and did a longer trip than I did. She did all the planning herself (she's a pro) . Click on her recent trip report and read through it. She'll give you whatever information you need. I'm not as helpful since I'm lazy and always hire TA's : )

evamarie, our guide's name was Horacio Rodriguez. his email is limachir@hotmail.com His phone is listed at Claro: 984751377

He has both a good grasp of the history as well as knowledge of where all the best spots for photography are. He will take you out on ledges and precipices where you would never go yourself. He will also take some well framed photos of you as well, which is always nice. (as with shoemaker's children having no shoes, photographers often have no photos of themselves) Spend about three hours with him for both the history and photography opportunities and then scramble about the ruins by yourself. The photos of the nooks and crannies are just as marvelous as the panoramic vistas.

Note: He does not coddle you when you are walking about. You figure out the how to get over the ledges yourself, LOL. He is a bit of a no nonsense guy. He was just perfect for me, as I like no-nonsense people, but he might not be everyone's cup of tea.

He met us at the train in AC when we arrived to discuss the next day when we would go up to MP. Then, he met us in the morning and traveled up on the bus with us. I don't know if this is his standard behavior or if it was because Peru for less asked him to meet us.

EM: Just found the MP guide's full phone number: 0051 84 984751377

Thanks for the info on getting around. I'm not at the trip planning stage yet for Machu Picchu. The sunlight really cooperated for your photos. Looks just like the postcards!

How much per day was the tourguide and driver combination? Thanks!

Guide and driver for a day runs around $100/day plus tip.

Boston Harbor - you are my inspiration

Here is my itinerary with a couple of questions. Where did you rent your fish eye lens through? Thanks for all of your insights!

Day 1 - Arrive Cusco @8am– Tour Pisac ruins and market, spend all morning there, lunch in Pisac,
Arrive in Ollantaytambo town between 2 and 3.

Reservas Hotel Pakaritampu
Telefonos (51-84) 204020/204104/204106
Emergencias (51-84) 984-965399 – RPM #966466
Fax: (51-84)204105
hotel@pakaritampu.com

Dinner suggestions in Olly???

Day 2 - Start at 9am visit Maras Moray and the salt mines then on to a tour of Ollantaytambo the archeological site , tour ends between 3pm and 3:30pm.

Dinner suggestions in Olly???

Day 3 - Start at 8am visit Market day in Chinchero, the archeological site and the colonial church, spend 2hrs 30 mins and have time for lunch – then directly back to train station by 1pm for train to Machu Picchu. Train travel time @ 90 minutes.

Luggage bigger than day pack portered to Hotel Midori in Cusco by guide.

Sumaq
Calle Costa Rica 185 Urb. La Aurora - Miraflores Lima 18 | Telf: (511) 445 7828 I Cel RPC: (511) 98 911 0728
reservations@sumaqhotelperu.com I www.machupicchuhotels-sumaq.com

Day 4.- Machu Picchu
What time do we need to get up in the morning to catch the bus if we want a ticket to do the climb? If we opt out of the climb what time should we aim to be at MP to get the best photos in July? Early morning?

Day 5 – Train from Machu Picchu to Olly (90min), Taxi from Olly to Cusco (40min), Cusco City tour and ruins (Sacsayhuaman, Quenqo, Puca Pucara, Tambomachay) start at 1:30 pm
Midori Hotel
Ataud street, Number 204.
Cusco - Peru
tel. +51 (84) 248144
fax. +51 (84) 223402
email: reservas@midori-cusco.com
info@midori-cusco.com
midorireservas@hotmail.com

Day 6 .- Depart Cusco at 4:30pm




DON’T FORGET....
Bug spray and sunscreen

Passport for machu picchu to buy the entrance fees at the town of Aguas Calientes YOU MUST PAY IN SOLES. 126 SOLES. ($ 46) per person

Integral ticket for city tour and sacred valley... you must pay in soles 130 soles ($ 42) per person, Cathedral ticket 25 soles ($ 10) per person, Ticket for salt mines 5 soles ($ 2) per person, Koricancha ticket 10 soles ($ 4) per person

Wow, evamarie, you're better than at TA, LOL. Your trip as a six day journey sounds great except for one thing. Essentially, you are doing the same trip as I did and I loved every minute. The only thing I would change is staying another day in Cusco at the end. Cusco is a living museum in itself and should be savored. You really need at least a day just walking around, visiting the Inka museum, the cathedral, the great monasteries--having lunch over looking the Plaza des Armas. You simply must stay another day in Cusco. I had more than two days, and it wasn't enough. You are hardly have 24 hours. You will cry.

Also, see if you can plan your trip so that you are in Chinchero on Sunday for the market. Both Pisac and Chinchero have their big markets on Sunday.

For restaurants in Olly, I would turn to mlgb and Lcuy for tips. mlgb is far more informed about Olly than I, and Lcuy stayed at the Hotel Pakaritampu just a few weeks ago.

To get tickets to climb HP, you would need to be on the first bus at 5:00 and in line an hour or so before that. (again, this is from others, I didn't climb as I just want to take photos). Do a search in the forum and see what others have said regarding getting tickets. However, since you are only going to be at MP for one day, you need to weigh whether you want to spend half of your time climbing a mountain. Just a thought. If you opt out of the climb, and it is clear, you should try to be up at the mountain as early as you comfortably can--around 6:30 so you have the lovely morning light for photos. In July, chances are much better of it being clearer, but you always need to play a cloud forest by ear.

Regarding my fisheye lens (or any other specialty lens you might want), I rent lenses from "Lens Pro to Go" http://www.lensprotogo.com/ They are great to work with and their prices INCLUDE shipping both ways (most rental compaies don't include shipping on their stated rates, so watch out when comparing prices). A one week rental on the Fisheye lens was something like $68. (Plus insurance which only costs about $5 and really limits your exposure if the lens gets damaged) I'm very in to renting lenses these days, even when I'm home and want a specialty lens for an event. Everything is easy to understand on their site and they answer the phone immediately if you have questions.

Tip: rather than a fisheye lens, you might want to rent a super wide angle like a 10-24 mm. You get almost the same view with no distortion. It is all in how you want the photo to look. I had both and usually used my 10-24mm--I own one and it is my favorite lens--for both close up photography and panoramas.

Last thing. Before you go to MP. Review this 3-D video of the sanctuary a few times. I so wish I had seen this before I visited as I would have been more well oriented to the site: http://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/astonishing-3-d-data-video-of-machu-picchu.cfm

Also, I posted some tips on how to take a panorama set of shots that can help you get fabulous vistas in Peru: http://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/take-the-perfect-panorama-photo-at-machu-picchu.cfm

OK, that's it.

It's so nice to see photos from someone who knows how to handle a camera. Very well done. Are you a pro or just an enthusiast?

I have yet to go thru my 1300 pics from Peru following our end of April trip. But with the arrival of a new iMac yesterday and a LR3 download, I'll get busy soon.

You pics brought back so many wonderful memories.

Hi dcd, thanks. I love to share my photos and they are great for reliving the trip. I'm just an enthusiast whose work in a technology company gets in the way of my travels ; )

I also just bought the new Imac a couple weeks ago. It's heaven. I waited until I could process my photos the new mac as well.

Looking forward to seeing your photos. Post soon.

I've very much enjoyed your pictures and trip report. And..I'm looking forward to your 7 hour fly-by in Lima.

Very informative post. I learnt a lot from the travelog + responses. I'm headed to Peru in a few days and had a few questions:
Are tripods/monopods allowed at Machu Picchu?
Are they allowed inside the cathedrals in Cusco or Lima?
I heard about a Hummingbird Sanctuary near Aguas Calientes, any ideas?
Also, will I be hassled if I travel with a dSLR + 3-4lenses?
Thanks!

Hi Ravii9,

Tripods and monopods are not allowed at MP. A friend of mine was even hassled over a walking stick.

Most cathedrals do not allow photos at all, so don't even think about a tripod.

Not sure about the hummingbird sanctuary. I know my hotel at AC (Inka Terra) had LOTS of hummingbirds (and birders taking photos). Maybe someone else can give you better info on the hummingbirds.

I had a Nikon (D-90) with 3 lenses. (18-200, 10-24, and fisheye) I squished them into the smallest photo backpack I could. My guide (who was a photographer) told me to put my camera in my bag and just walk through. So, make sure your camera is in your zippered bag and not around your neck. They do try to hassle people who have big-ass cameras/lenses. The cost of bringing in what they consider a "professional" camera is over $300. So....just act like a tourist with a backpack and you'll be fine.

Thanks BostonHarbor for the quick response. Your thread rocks!!!

In that case, I'll leave my tripod at my hotel. Can I disguise a monopod as a hiking stick and get away?
I have a big 100-400mm lens and although it fits in my backpack, I hope they won't hassle me for the $300. If they do, can I just put it in a luggage locker at the entrance? Do they have something like that there? Any suggestions for taking good pictures without a tripod/monopod?

I was able to bring a rubber-tipped travel tripod into Machu Picchu and wasn't bothered when I used it at the Watchman's tower. Maybe that it was January and not peak season helped. They didn't inspect my bag, and I didn't have a professional looking camera (I had an ultrazoom type, not a Dslr). It is just up to the guards inside, they will tweet you. For sure you can not bring a metal-tipped professional tripod. I don't really think that you need that huge lens anyways. Wide angle will be a lot more useful.

https://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann/PeruMachuPicchu

Thanks mlgb!
I really liked your pics. We are coming from the Amazon and therefore will carrying the big zoom along. But I'll leave the 100-400mm in the hotel safe! That'll leave me with a 11-16, 18-55 and a 70mm all for a Canon dslr. I have a non-professional rubber-tipped tripod and will try to take it in. Will post back my experiences after I return

Be prepared for the humidity in the Amazon! I saved all of those dessicant packets, and stored my electronics inside the zips overnight, it really helped. (I'm assuming you are going to a lodge that isn't A/C). It is amazing what humidity does to paper, too, so I'd recommend also ziplocking things like guidebooks, diaries, etc.

Yes, the desiccant packs seem like a good idea. Will follow it!

I have a few follow-up questions about Machu-Picchu.
Do they allow you to go in/out of the gate on the same day, for example to go out eat lunch and come back in? I see that the last entry time is 3pm. I would like to step out for lunch and come back in after the throng of tourists depart!

Also, BostonHarbor: Do you think they'd allow me into the grounds of the InkaTerra lodge if I'm not a guest there? If I go there, I'll definitely buy a coffee or snack before venturing around on their grounds.

Yes you have in out same day ticket to MP. Many do the buffet brunch in the hotel next to the ruins and then go back. I thought the buffet was fine if overpriced (roughly $35 including drinks).

Can't answer Q#2.

Hi ravii9, I think you can wander about the Inka terra all you want. There may be places that are off limits unless you are with a guide, but I didn't see them. The are incredibly nice, why don't you just go to the desk and ask. I do know that they have organized tours for the hummingbirds and orchids. It was raining whenever we were there, so I didn't do a lot of touring.

Regarding taking photos without a tripod, I took all my pictures in Peru freehand--even the panoramas. Frankly, I almost never use a tripod. I find anchoring my shoulder against a wall works fine if I need to keep my shutter open, but with vibration reduction (VR) lenses, I've gotten great photos bouncing around in the back of a bumpy truck. Even my night shots in Cusco were freehand and they came out great.

Regarding the big lens, I'm with mlgb. You absolutely do not need a super zoom at MP. A wide angle will serve you much better. And, I assure you, if the guards see that lens, you will get the "lens tax". leave it in the hotel.

Thanks guys. I'll leave the big lens in the hotel.. flying this weekend. will be back here to post my experiences.

And photos links!!

Leave the 100-400 at home ... even my 70-200 was too much unless I wanted to get detail shots. A wide angle will work best. Hubby had problems getting his tripod (rubber tips) in the first day. Hid it inside the backpack the next day and had no problems using it once inside )in sight of the guards, I might add). Have a terrific time. And share your photos when you get back.