Driving Tour of San Francisco

As a native San Franciscan and 33 year resident of the area (I lived in Southern Calif. for 27 years when I was young & didn’t know any better), I’ve come to realize that the thing that makes San Francisco unique and one of the top tourist destinations in the world, is The City’s majestic setting with the bay and ocean on 3 sides, its ethnic diversity, its many different neighborhoods, the “spirit” and love for The City that residents have (they certainly pay a high cost of living for the privilege of living here), and the many different “one-of-a-kind” sites and events that exist in The City. Most cities have a downtown and/or business district that is somewhat similar to San Francisco’s. You will find Macy’s, Nordstrom’s, Nike, Virgin records, etc in many cities in the world and San Francisco too, but that’s not why we choose to live here.

When I want to “show off” San Francisco to friends from elsewhere, this is the route I take them on.

Early in the Morning (9:00 or so) head out east on The Bay Bridge (Hwy 80) towards Oakland. Stay in the left most lane, and when you start to approach Treasure Island/Yerba Buena Island, exit left towards Treasure Island (only left turn once on the Bridge, but pay attention – it’s easy to miss). Follow the road until you get a fantastic view of San Francisco from a flat area with a large grassy area. Park the car & take in the view. After the view, return the same way you came & take the Bay Bridge back to San Francisco. There are some great views from the Bridge (I used to come home from work this way every workday for about 5 years).

Once back in San Francisco, take the first right off the bridge (Fremont St exit). At the end of the off ramp, turn left on to Fremont St (it’s a one-way street to the left/northwest). From Fremont, take the first right onto Howard, and then the first right onto Beale. Follow Beale southeast until it hits Bryant, and turn left on to Bryant. In two short blocks, Bryant will dead end into the beautiful Embarcadero, which runs along the San Francisco Bay. Up until the ‘89 earthquake, a freeway was perched above this lovely section of the Embarcadero, and it was not an attractive drive at all. All that changed when the freeway was demolished and The City spent a lot of money/time to spruce up this area. It’s now one of the prettiest & most scenic drives in San Francisco.

Continue north along the Embarcadero, past the recently refurbished Ferry Building on the right, and the Embarcadero Center on the left (I worked there for 2 years). As you approach the ultra touristy & tacky Pier 39 complex, turn left onto Bay St. Cross Kearny and then turn left on Stockton. Continue south for a few blocks on Stockton and turn left onto Lombard St (watch for the signs to Coit Tower). Follow Lombard up to Coit Tower where it dead ends. Find a place to park (difficult later in the day) and enjoy the views of the Bay and the City all around you. After viewing everything from the car park area, walk towards the tower and pass the tower (on your left) until you get a good view of the Financial District area. Notice the nice houses/apartments with the great views in front of you – wouldn’t you like to live there for a while? You can visit the tower with the 1930’s WPA murals, and then go up to the top for a little nicer view.

Once finished with Coit Tower, return to the Embarcadero via Lombard, Stockton, and Bay. Turn left onto the Embarcadero towards Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf. The Embarcadero kinda turns into Jefferson St (where The Wharf is located). I loathe Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s tacky, tacky, tacky. It’s not what I would show any visitor I wanted to impress. It’s mostly T-shirt shops, wax museums, and fast food places. I can’t understand why anyone would want to visit it. I’ve read that most first time visitors want to tour this area, but few (if any) second time visitors ever return. Follow Jefferson past the Wharf until it hits Hyde St, and then turn left onto Hyde St. Quickly go over the Cable Car tracks where you will turn Right onto Beach Street, directly in front of the Cable Car turnaround.

Note – from here on, I talk about Union Square and Union St. These are two different places and are not close to each other.

You have two options that I suggest for taking a ride on the Cable Cars. The last time I did this itinerary, I dropped our guests (and my wife) off at the Hyde St. turnaround, and then I drove & met them 1 hour later at Macys & Union Square, near the end of the cable car line. You can certainly park the car & everyone can take the cable cars down & back. However, this can add about 1 hour to your journey, and the Powell/Market St turnaround (where you will line up to return to The Wharf/Hyde turnaround) is not an area I like to show guests – it’s full of pretty scruffy looking people/pan-handlers, etc. There is a parking lot on Beach St. just under Ghiradelli Square. If you decide to park in this area, it is perhaps worth the trouble to quickly walk through Ghiradelli Sq and even the Cannery. The last time I was there, many of the storefronts which were used for retail space in the early 70’s (when we first visited), were now taken over by commercial offices. Same with the Cannery. If you want to visit, don’t spend more than 30 mins – there are places you might want to linger a bit later in this itinerary. To take the Cable Car ride you will need to buy a ticket at the kiosk at the turnaround, and then get in line. Sit on the east side of the cable car to get the best views. Once the car is turned around, this will be the side that is the farthest away from where you approach the car to get in (go around to the other side of the car to board). Obviously, use whatever “persuasion” you need to either sit or stand on the outside of the car. Don’t go into the inside section – wait for the next car. After the trip (I still enjoy them after all these years) get off the Cable Car at Union Square. If you choose to do a “round trip” down & back, when you line up to return on the Powell/Market turnaround, make sure you board the Hyde St line (it’s marked on the outside of the car), not the Taylor St line (you will end up returning to someplace else). If you headed out this morning early & got on the Bay Bridge at 9 or 9:30, you should get to The Wharf around 11:00. If it’s much later than this, you had better pick up the pace.

If you do the one way trip on the cable car to Union Square where the main group is picked up by a driver (that was me the last time we did this), then for a continuation of this drive, go to the paragraph starting with “From Union Square, in front of Macy’s”.

If everyone does the “round trip” on the cable cars, leave the Ghiradelli garage by turning left onto Beach and then left onto Polk St. Continue south on Polk to Lombard St and turn left onto Lombard. Continue east on Lombard and after two blocks you will be on The crookedest St in San Francisco. If you see a line of cars as far west as Polk when you approach, go past Polk, turn left on Filbert, and then left again on Hyde until you reach Lombard. This way allows a right turn onto the crooked part of Lombard & is a little faster.

At the bottom of the crooked section, continue straight on Lombard until it hits Columbus St. Columbus is the only street north of market in this area that cuts a diagonal across the other streets. Angle right on Columbus (same direction as cable car tracks) and continue southeast on Columbus. You are now in North Beach, which is San Francisco’s version of Little Italy. This was the Italian section of The City the first half of last century, and the home of the “beat generation” in the 50s. It’s the most “alive” section of The City in the evenings. There are lots of Italian restaurants and outdoor cafes. Continue on Columbus until it kinda angles right on to Montgomery St.

Montgomery street is the heart of the Financial District. Immediately on your left is the Transamerica Pyramid. Continue south on Montgomery, and then turn right on to California St.

Continue west on California St (you will be driving along the California St Cable Car tracks). Proceed several blocks to Powell St (where you will cross another set of cable car tracks).

You are now on Nob Hill, where there are several luxury hotels. Proceed west on California St. Just past Powell, take the first right on to Mason St. The Fairmont Hotel (my favorite) is on the right and the Flood Mansion is on the left. The most elegant mansions in early (1900) San Francisco were in this area. The Flood Mansion is the only survivor from the ’06 earthquake & fire (although, most of the interior was burned). The other (and more elegant) mansions were destroyed in the earthquake & fire. From Mason, turn left immediately on to Sacramento, then left again on to Taylor. On your right is Grace Cathedral. Turn left (east) on California. Immediately on your right is the Mark Hopkins Hotel and further on are more luxury hotels & restaurants. Continue east on California, crossing the cable car tracks on Powell again. Continue on California, and several blocks later, turn left on to Kearny (it’s a one way street). Travel one block & turn left on Sacramento (which is a one way street), and in 2 blocks, turn right on to Stockton. You are now in Chinatown. Notice all the food related shops. Look for roasted ducks hanging from hooks in store front windows.

Continue north on Stockton. Cross Broadway and then angle left on Columbus. In just 1 short block, turn left on Union St (a big park will be on your right in front of you before you turn right on Union). What I just described in the last few paragraphs is the route for those who did the round trip cable car event. If you did the round trip, go to the paragraph starting with “***Continue west on Union St” – the next several paragraphs describe the route for those doing the one way cable car ride with an escort picking them up at Union Square in front of Macy’s.

From Union Square in front of Macy’s, go west on Geary (it’s a one way) and turn an immediate right on to Powell (where the cable cars go). Continue north on Powell to California St and turn left on California.

You are now on Nob Hill, where there are several luxury hotels. Proceed west on California St. Just past Powell, take the first right on to Mason St. The Fairmont Hotel (my favorite) is on the right and the Flood Mansion is on the left. The most elegant mansions in early (1900) San Francisco were in this area. The Flood Mansion is the only survivor from the ’06 earthquake & fire (although, most of the interior was burned). The other (and more elegant) mansions were destroyed in the earthquake & fire. From Mason, turn left immediately on to Sacramento, then left again on to Taylor. On your right is Grace Cathedral. Turn left (east) on California. Immediately on your right is the Mark Hopkins Hotel and further on are more luxury hotels & restaurants. Continue east on California, crossing the cable car tracks on Powell again. Continue on California, and several blocks later, turn left on to Kearny (it’s a one way street). Travel one block & turn left on to Sacramento (which is a one way street), and in 2 blocks, turn right on to Stockton. You are now in Chinatown. Proceed north on Stockton. Notice all the food related shops. Look for roasted ducks hanging from hooks in store front windows.

Continue north on Stockton, cross over Broadway, and when Stockton hits a spot where it intersects with both Broadway & Green St, turn right on Green (make sure you don’t take a sharp right on Broadway). Continue east on Green for a few blocks and then turn right on to Montgomery. Proceed south on Montgomery two blocks and turn right on to Broadway (it’s a big road). Ignore the XXX places, and angle right on to Columbus. You are now in North Beach. See the prior description of North Beach.

Continue northwest on Columbus, and at Union St, angle left (a large park will be on your right in front of you just prior to the turn). Continue west on Union, and turn right on to Hyde St (you will be on the cable car tracks). Continue north on Hyde and turn right on to Lombard St and The crookedest street in San Francisco.

At the bottom of the crooked part, turn right on to Leavenworth, and proceed for a couple of blocks, and then turn right on to Union Street.

***Continue west on Union St. Cross Van Ness (busy street), and just past Gough St, you will enter the very pretty Union St. area. The “main section” of Union ends at about Steiner St. When we first visited this street in the very early 70s, we returned with a poster that said “If you lost your heart in San Francisco, you will probably find it on Union St”. Park the car, get out and explore. If it’s time for lunch, there are loads of possibilities. I like Café de Paris in the 2000 block, and Rose’s Café at 2298 Union (corner of Steiner). There is a simple sandwich shop on Union across the street from Rose’s, which might be the best bet if you’re trying to squeeze this drive into a “reasonable” day. If you started this drive at 9 or so, and didn’t do the cable car round trip and didn’t visit anything near the Wharf, you should be on Union St at 12:30 or so.

After visiting Union St, if you want to see where the rich people live, continue west on Union & turn left on Davisadero, and then right on Broadway. Proceed west on Broadway until it dead ends. In the last two blocks of Broadway, two of the richest people in the US reside – Larry Ellison, and Gordon Getty. Ellison’s house is the strange/wierd one on the north side of the street. Turn around on Broadway & head east on Broadway to Fillmore & turn right on to Fillmore.

If you don’t want to see the rich folks, after visiting Union, head south on Fillmore off Union. Hope your car’s transmission is working OK – during the Tour of San Francisco Bike Race in ’01, Lance Armstrong complained about the steepness of this Fillmore St hill, which he & others had to climb about 5 times.

The Fillmore St Shopping District is another one of our premier neighborhood shopping streets – and my wife’s favorite. The main section is between Jackson & Bush. Continue south on Fillmore (it’s a little gritty after Sutter St).

Proceed south on Fillmore several blocks, past the busy Geary St (you’ll overpass it) and turn right on to Fulton St. In one block you will be in the Alamo Square Historic District and the site of the famous Postcard Row that has been pictured in countless TV shows, place mats, and postcards. Continue west on Fulton with Alamo Square Park to your left. On the corner of Fulton & Scott is the Westerfield mansion -–one of the most photographed Victorian houses in The City. Turn left on to Scott, & there will be more Victorians on your right. Circle Alamo Square, turning left on to Hayes. As you proceed east on Hayes and just after you “crest” at Pierce, look slightly to your left and you will see Postcard Row – with a row of Queen Anne Victorian homes in the foreground, and downtown San Francisco in the background. Park the car ASAP (you may have to turn left on to Steiner to find a spot). Walk along the grass to where Pierce hits the park for the view – you’ll see lots of other people there also & tour busses are always close by. Assuming all the “exceptions” that I stated earlier, and only 30 mins for a sandwich on Union St. plus 1 hr shopping, you should get to Alamo Square around 2:30-3:00.

If you dawdled along the way and are behind schedule (it’s later than 3:00 by now), perhaps skip the next route up to a fantastic views from Twin Peaks. If you choose to skip this section, then after Postcard Row, head west on either Fulton or Hayes, left (south) on Divisadero, then right on Haight and drive for several blocks to get to the Haight Ashbury area (nice Victorians along the way).

In the 1970s, before the GGNRA was formed (see later text), a radio station had a “best view of San Francisco” contest. The view from Twin Peaks won. It’s a little tricky to get there, so pay attention. After Postcard Row, head west on either Hayes or Fulton, and south (left) on Divisadero. Divisadero will kinda flow left into Castro St (follow the traffic). Proceed south on Castro until you hit Market (big intersection), and turn right (west) & go up Market St. Market St will flow into Portola after Market St stops it’s steep uphill climb. Shortly Market St. changes to Portola, look for a Twin Peaks Blvd on your right and then turn right on to Twin Peaks Blvd. & keep following this street up to the “top of the world”. You’ll know when you have arrived at the view point. After the view, follow Twin Peaks Blvd North (not the way you came up – get a map). At 17th St. Twin Peaks will become Clayton. Shortly after crossing 17th, angle to the right on to Ashbury, and then turn right on to Frederick and then left on to Masonic. Proceed north on Masonic to Haight (there are some lovely Victorians along Masonic). Turn left on to Haight.

You are now in the Haight Ashbury district (locals call it “the Haight”). Proceed west along Haight & enjoy the sights & people. Haight will dead end into Golden Gate Park. Turn right on Stanyan, and continue in the right hand lane slightly past the entrance to GG park (no left turn allowed into park). Just past the no left turn sign, turn right on a cloverleaf road that circles into the park. Drive down JFK drive through Golden Gate Park. Notice the wonderful Conservatory of Flowers on your right that was opened up in Sept ’03 after years of restoration. Continue on JFK drive (look for the Buffalos just after Spreckels lake) until you hit the ocean. Turn right on the Great Highway, and continue as it passes the Cliff House & becomes Geary Blvd at about 39th St. Continue east on Geary & turn left on to 36th St. Proceed north on 36th two blocks until it ends at Lincoln Park & then turn right on to Clement. If it’s clear, you can see the Bank of America Bldg. in the distance.

Turn left on 34th St. and enter Lincoln Park. Continue on to the Palace of the Legion of Honor. This is one of our major art exhibition places (along with some other uses). It was built by Alma de Bretteville Spreckels, who married into the Spreckels fortune (sugar), built the museum, and donated it to The City. A few years ago it displayed the Toulouse-Lautrec exhibit, last year the Degas exhibit, and also has the largest collection of Rodin statues outside of Paris.

After passing the Legion, take the right (only way you can go) on to El Camino Del Mar. Get the camera ready for some fantastic views of the Golden Gate. I always take guests on this route. You will be driving along a golf course. Just before you leave the course and enter a residential area, park the car & walk to the viewing platform to your left – you’ll see it from the road. Return to the car & continue along El Camino Del Mar. You will enter the Seacliff Area which (I suspect) has the most expensive homes in the City. Robin Williams lives there – look for a dinosaur topiary peeking over a hedge on his home (it’s not on the immediate waterfront). When entering Seacliff, keep left whenever you can – especially paying attention to a “Y” onto Seacliff Ave. Just after this Y, turn left on to a dead end & perhaps have a look at China Beach & the views from there. Continue along Seacliff Rd as it snakes around and exits the Seacliff area at 25th St. Turn left (east) off 25th on to Lincoln. Proceed north on Lincoln for some more exceptional views of the Golden Gate and the Bridge.

Lincoln will eventually twist around, and go under the Golden Gate Bridge. Immediately after it goes under the bridge, look on your left for a sign to the Golden Gate Bridge. Follow this up and cross the Golden Gate Bridge.

Head north across the Golden Gate Bridge. Just past the bridge, take the Alexander Av. exit towards Sausalito. When you get to the stop at the end of the freeway off ramp, turn left & go under Hwy 101. Proceed like you are going back across the bridge to SF, but take the road to the right that goes up-hill, just before actually getting on 101. There will be a sign that says you are entering the Golden Gate National Recreational (GGNRA) area. Continue up on this road – it’s called Conzelman on the map. You will see what are (in my opinion) the best views of San Francisco – The GG Bridge in the foreground & The City behind it. This was formerly a military area that is still laced with bunkers, gun turrets, underground tunnels etc. It was opened up in the ‘70s. The views of The City, the Bridge, and the Golden Gate are breathtaking. You can see down the San Mateo Coast from up here. Go all the way to the top until you hit a much smaller one-way road. On the way up, get out & enjoy the sights. Kids will love the bunkers & gun turrets. At the top where the main road ends, there is the largest gun turret, where you can climb up to for an almost 360 degree view. This view is best in the evening when the sun is in a position to light up the bridge & highlight downtown.

Return the way you came up to this area. Check the time. If there is any time left in your schedule, take a quick pass through Sausalito – otherwise head south back to SF. If you opt for the Sausalito visit, once you get to the junction just past the tunnel under 101, head straight to Sausalito. Just follow your nose (bearing right whenever possible), until you end up on Bridgeway – the main road along the bay in Sausalito. Drive along Bridgeway, enjoying the views back to the City. Continue North on Bridgeway until it joins 101 and you can return to SF over the Golden Gate Bridge again.


Stu Dudley

Victorian Houses & Golden Gate Park

Scenic drive to Golden Gate Park – Lots of Victorian Houses
From the Lombard St motel area, take Lombard east to Gough St. From the Wharf area, take Bay St west to Gough. Head south on Gough (it becomes a fast 1 way street after some steep climbs). Do not take Van Ness south - it is ugly, full of pan-handlers, & slow. When you hit Lafayette Park, park the car (usually not a problem) & walk up the stairs near Clay St into the park. Sit on the bench at the top of the stairs & look east at the two lovely Queen Ann Victorian houses. My wife leads a walking tour in this area and she has a picture taken in 1906 from this same site, showing these 2 Victorians, with the entire city in rubble (from the earthquake) behind them.

Continue driving south on Gough until it hits Hayes St. Turn right on Hayes. This is a nice/funky shopping area. Continue west on Hayes until you reach Alamo Square Park. At Pierce St, park the car (a little more difficult - there are usually spaces on Steiner St on the east side of the park). Go to the park side of Hayes & Pierce to see perhaps the most photographed site in SF (other than the bridge). Walk into the park a little for the best views. This is "Postcard Row", with the Queen Ann Victorian row houses in the foreground, and downtown SF in the distance. If you want to see some more Victorians, drive north on Steiner (next to the park) and 1 block past the park, turn left on to McAllister. Continue west, and in the second block from 1443 to 1499 McAllister is the longest contiguous row of Victorian Stick Style houses in the City. At the next corner, turn right on Scott, and on the next street, turn right on to Golden Gate (it’s a one-way street). Continue two blocks on Golden Gate and at the end of the second block is the huge Chateau Tivoli – painted 23 different colors. Immediately to the right of it is the Seattle Block – more exquisite Victorians. At the corner, turn right on Steiner, and then right on McAllister to pass the contiguous Stick Victorians again. At the next intersection (Scott) turn left & go south on Scott. Looming on the corner of Scott & Fulton is one of the most photographed Victorians in the City - the Westerfield Mansion. Unfortunately, they have not pruned the tree in front of the house for quite some time, and it somewhat blocks the view. Continue south on Scott (more Victorians across from the park) to Fell & turn right (west) on Fell. This will take you into Golden Gate Park, and there are some lovely houses along the way (and an in-expensive Arco gas station too).

Stu Dudley

Noe Valley Walk

In a “nutshell” I think the Noe Valley has more interesting & unique shops, restaurants, and architecture, than you will find in most “neighborhoods” in the City – certainly more than you’ll find at the Wharf. The Haight might be a close second, or perhaps first in other people’s opinion.

There are many single family dwellings in the Noe Valley – perhaps a higher percentage than in any of the pre-earthquake areas (this excludes outer Sunset & Richmond areas). Many of these houses are Victorians – we lived in one on Jersey St.

I’ve read in both the SF Chronicle and the SF Focus Magazine that the Noe Valley is the best neighborhood in the Bay Area.

There are many very nice ethnic restaurants in the area. One of my two favorite Italian restaurants (Incanto) is located there, along with other more traditional Italian places (Bacco is just one). Just on Church St, there is a “noodles” restaurant that served me the best Paella I’ve had in the US. Across the street is a Italian seafood restaurant, farther down is one of my favorite Chinese places, a sushi restaurant, a middle eastern place, and a Thai restaurant. Also on Church there is Lovejoy’s Tea Room, which is perhaps the best English tearoom in the City – people flock from all over to have high tea there. On 24th St there are another twenty or so restaurants – French, Italian, sushi, Korean (on Castro), Calif cuisine (Firefly), a burger place (Barneys), Thai, Peruvian (Fresca), Chinese, and many “breakfast” spots.

The shops are just a diverse. There is a place that sells very interesting lunch boxes. There are houseware stores, antique shops, cookware shops, clothes, odds & ends, etc.

The Noe Valley is bounded to the south by 30th street, to the east by Dolores, on the west by Grandview and the hills leading up to Diamond Heights Blvd, and to the north by about 21st or 22nd streets. It is just south, and over the hill from the Castro.

Here is a “Walk in the Noe Valley” that I posted some months ago:

From downtown, take the J-Church and get off on 30th Street. Sit on the left side of the car (east side) to get a good view of downtown as you pass Dolores Park. It’s about a 20 min. ride once you are on the street car.

On the corner of 30th and Church, there is a great coffee shop - XO- with internet access, and very nice, clean restrooms. You can get a spot of breakfast or lunch there too.

Cross Church, and perhaps do a “once around” inside the small produce market across the street from XO. Walk north on Church. You will pass a meat market, Italian seafood restaurant, a Thai place, and a few others. On the corner of Duncan & Church is my favorite Italian restaurant - Incanto. Peruse the menu - it's a lot more creative & interesting than the normal Italian fare you find in the City. Head a block north & you will come to Erics - my favorite Chinese restaurant in this area – and a great place for a good “bargain” lunch.. Kitty-corner is Amberjack Sushi. Somewhere on the west side of Church, there is an interesting antique shop called Pickled Hutch, and another specialty store selling odds-&-ends. There is also a store selling German specialties.

Cross over the street (towards the Sushi place), and continue to walk north on Church. You will pass an interesting pet store (anyone at home who might enjoy a treat?). On the corner of Church & 26th street is Chloe’s, my favorite place for breakfast or lunch – especially if it’s a nice day & you can sit outside. It’s quite simple, but very popular with the locals. A little further north is Fatouche (sp) – a mid-eastern restaurant. In the same block is Lovejoy’s tea room. It has a very beautiful interior and is quite popular - drawing tea crowds from the entire city. There is a Lovejoy’s antique shop across the street.

Proceed north on Church to 24th St. Head west (turn left) on 24th & walk along the south side. There are lots & lots of shops, cafes, and restaurants – I can’t possibly describe them all. On the south side of 24, there is a Starbucks – perhaps the only chain store in the Noe Valley (other than Walgreens, & a few banks). Fresca is a Peruvian restaurant that opened up a few months ago. Le Zinc is a very nice French restaurant. When you get to Castro, turn left & walk up the block. There is a kitchen store along the way & also a Korean Restaurant. Cross the street at Jersey (1 blk south of 24th), and head back north towards 24th on Castro. There is a Sushi place, and a paint your own ceramics store. On the corner of Castro & 24th is an Deli/Ice Cream store. Turn left from Castro onto 24th, and walk past two restaurants, a mystery bookstore, a bicycle shop, and another very small Chinese restaurant. Continue west till you come to Douglass. Cross the street to the small playground & look around. Head back east along 24th St. You’ll pass Firefly – a very nice restaurant that’s kinda out-of-the-way (We have dinner there quite often).

Continue east on 24th & you’ll encounter more shops, restaurants, café’s etc. Lots of interesting places to stop. When you get to the east side of Diamond St, walk a ½ block north & check out Bacco, an Italian restaurant. On the corner of Diamond & 24th, there’s a café with outside tables – this seems to be a popular meeting place in the morning for moms with strollers. There is a burger place along the way on 24th (between Castro & Diamond St) that has nice outside seating. Continue east on 24th. Between Castro & Noe street, there is a real estate office owned by perhaps the only Republican in the Noe Valley – you’ll know it when you get there. Lots of pictures of Ronald Reagan in the window & other placards proclaiming the “looney-ness” of other Noe Valley residents. I moved to the Noe Valley in ’75, and that real estate office was there then – I guess he likes the “loonies” in the Noe Valley enough to want to stay there. All the artifacts in the window are interesting to read. Someone “defaced” his storefront a few years back, and all the “loonies” were quite outraged that someone would do such a terrible thing, and many pitched in to clean the place up.

Continue east on 24th till you get to Church where you can hop on the J-Church & head back to where you came from.

If you want to see Victorian houses, just stroll the east/west streets between Church & Diamond Streets, and between 23rd & 30th. There is a nice set of matching stick style Victorians about 3/4th the way up the street on 27th to the west of Church – on the south side of the street. Eric’s restaurant on 27th & Church is a Victorian above the restaurant. This will also let you see where the “locals” live. We enjoy wandering in this area after dinner, watching the people come & go or having an evening in front of the TV or guests over for dinner (not a lot of draped windows).

Stu Dudley

You should have WRITTEN most of Fodor's San Francisco - all that stuff is so accurate and such a resource.

North of San Francisco - Coast & Wine Country


Day 1
North of San Francisco

Head north across the Golden Gate Bridge. Just past the bridge, take the Alexander Av. exit towards Sausalito. When you get to the stop at the end of the freeway off ramp, turn left & go under Hwy 101. Continue on like you are going back across the bridge to SF, but take the road to the right that goes up-hill, just before actually getting on 101. There will be a sign that says you are entering the Golden Gate National Recreational area. Continue up on this road. You will see what is (in my opinion) the best views of San Francisco – The GG Bridge in the foreground & The City behind it.. This area was formerly a military area that is still laced with bunkers, gun turrets, underground tunnels etc. It was opened up in the ‘70s. The views of The City, the Bridge, and the Golden Gate are breathtaking. You can see all the way down the San Mateo Coast from up here. Go all the way to the top and you hit a much smaller one-way road. On the way up, get out & enjoy the sights. The kids will love the bunkers & gun turrets. At the top where the main road ends, there is the largest gun turret, where you can climb up to for an almost 360 degree view. This view is best in the evening when the sun is in a better position to light up the bridge & highlight downtown. If you plan to pass this way again later in the day, skip this venue now & do it later. If there isn’t any fog, perhaps do it now because you never know when the fog will roll in & make viewing impossible.

Return the way you came up to this area. When you get to the junction just past the tunnel under 101, head straight to Sausalito. Just follow your nose (bearing right whenever possible), until you end up on Bridgeway – the main road along the bay in Sausalito. Drive along Bridgeway, enjoying the views back to the City. Sausalito has gotten a little tacky in the last few decades with all it’s mediocre art shops & cheep souvenir stands, but the setting is lovely & there’s some nice architecture. Continue North on Bridgeway until it joins 101 North again (towards San Rafael).

Take the Blithdale exit off 101 to Mill Valley. M.A.S.H. fans will recognize this place as the hometown of B.J. Hunnicut. Keep following Blithdale as it worms around a little in some not-so-picturesque areas before it reaches the center of Mill Valley (you’ll know when you get there). Turn left & park the car where you can. Walk around the area – there are some interesting shops. There’s kind of a central square in town (a good place for a latte if you’re ready for one). The south-west side of the square is Miller Ave. When you’re finished browsing, take Miller Ave. South. Shortly after the double road section of Miller Ave ends, take a right on Shoreline Highway – this is also the famous Ca Highway #1. Follow this to Muir Beach & Stinson Beach. This is a pretty drive. After a couple of miles past the Miller/Shoreline junction, there is a turnoff to Panoramic Hwy and the Muir Woods redwood grove. If you want to visit Muir Woods, do so but remember that it gets overwhelmed with day trippers from SF in the summer.

Continue on Shoreline (Hwy #1) past Muir Beach & on to Stinson Beach. There are some nice views of the ocean along this route. There’s a lookout over Muir Beach.

Stay on Hwy #1 past Stinson Beach. You will start to see a large land mass to your left (ocean side) This is Point Reyes National Seashore, where you could spend several days exploring the wildlife & natural beauty of this area. Drake’s Bay, on the west side of Pt Reyes, is where this Northern California area was first discovered – long before San Francisco Bay was discovered by Spanish explorers. Hwy #1 will go past a long lagoon (Tomales Bay). Just past the lagoon, Hwy #1 will turn inland.

Continue on Hwy 1 past Valley Ford. When it intersects the Bodega Highway, turn right (inland/east) & go to Bodega. This is where Alfred Hitchcock filmed several scenes from “the Birds”, including the schoolhouse scene.

If you are touring in the summer, there is a very good chance that you will be inundated by fog & not much of the coastline will be visible. If you have had enough fog, continue east on the Bodega Highway to Sebastopol. This is actually a nice drive (at the beginning). At Sebastopol, head north on #116 toward the Russian River. Just before Forestville, stop at Kozlowski Farms (on your left) if you want to pick up a sandwich. They have a large selection of jams, jellies, vinegar & other gourmet delights. Continue on #116 until it hits the Russian River at Guerneville (somewhat of an interesting town). Turn right & proceed east along the Russian River on River Road. I will continue to describe the remaining drive in the Wine Country section.

Back at Bodega, if the fog isn’t so bad & you want to see some more coast, stay on Hwy #1 to Bodega Bay. Continue north on #1 until it reaches Jenner. At Jenner, you can go north on #1 to Fort Ross to tour an early Russian fur trading fort – it is quite interesting. After visiting Fort Ross, return to Jenner & head east along the Russian River to Guerneville.

Wine Country
From Guerneville, head east along River Road. Stay on River Road as it crosses over the Russian River just past Hacienda – which will still be River Road. About 4 miles past crossing over the river, turn left on Wohler Road. You will start to see some vineyards now & there are some cute B&Bs close by. Stay on Wohler Rd as it crosses the river (again) on a very narrow 1 way bridge. Just past the bridge, turn right on to Westside Rd towards Healdsburg. You will see lots of vineyards on the way to Healdsburg.

You are now in the Sonoma County Wine growing area. In contrast to it’s more famous neighbor to the east (Napa), you will find the Sonoma wineries more inviting & less hectic – I actually like them better. In the Napa Valley, there are very few wineries where you can take a picnic lunch & spread out on the lawn. In Sonoma, they seem to go out of their way to invite you to use their facilities. On Westside Road, stop at Rochioli (one of the best Chards in Calif), Hop Kiln to see an interesting former kiln turned into a winery, and perhaps Armida, or Mill Creek. Just past Mill Creek winery, Westside Road will turn right (east) to head into Healdsburg just in front of the Madrona Manor. Turn left into the Madrona Manor Hotel, park the car & explore the lovely gardens & the exterior of this fantastic Victorian manor house. Go inside & poke your nose into some of the common rooms & pick up a brochure for your next visit to this area. It has a lovely dining room with excellent cuisine. It’s a popular wedding spot. Exit Madrona Manor and turn left and head north on West Dry Creek Road (not straight to Healdsburg).

You are now in the Dry Creek appellation of Sonoma County & it’s my favorite area in the wine country. Continue north on West Dry Creek Road (there’s a Dry Creek Rd which you will follow later). Stop at Lambert Bridge winery – this is one of the wineries that “invites” you to picnic on their lawn (they have lots of picnic tables). Just past Lambert Bridge winery, turn right on Lambert Bridge Rd & proceed a couple 100 yds to Pezzi King Winery. Stop & explore this winery too (great Zins). Return to West Dry Creek Rd & head north again. Continue on this road until you see a sign for Preston Vineyards. This is another winery that “invites” you to picnic. It has very pretty grounds – explore the outside bread oven, boules court, vegetable garden, flowers, and cats. The tasting room is quite nice – my wife likes their Rose wine. Return to West Dry Creek Road & continue north until the road ends. This is a pretty drive – would you like to own one of the houses near this dead-end? Turn around & head south. Turn left on Yoakim Road & then turn left (north) where it dead ends at Dry Creek Road. Proceed north on Dry Creek Rd & stop at Ferrari-Carano winery. This is the most "extravagant" winery in this area – it received a lot of criticism from locals (we know a few) when it was built. However, it is quite impressive. It has lovely gardens, a large “Tuscan” type villa, and a pretty tasting room (good Sauvignon Blanc). Exit Ferrari Carano & turn right (south) on Dry Creek Road towards Healdsburg. This is another pretty drive.

Healdsburg is our favorite town in the wine country – including anything in Napa. When you go under the freeway (on Dry Creek Rd) turn right when you hit Healdsburg Blvd & continue south until you see the town square – it’s obvious. Park the car & get out & explore. Tour the square & several blocks north & south of the square on Healdsburg Ave. There is a produce market Saturday morning west of the big hotel. This is a wonderful town to spend the night in. There is a new (overdone, in my opinion) large hotel (expensive) on the west side of the square – I think it’s called Healdsburg Hotel or something like that. There is also a B&B on the south side of the square & there are other B&Bs scattered throughout town. For dining in Healdsburg, we like Ravenous, Bistro Ralph, and Charcuterie which are all very popular with the locals. We also like Manzanita. Madrona Manor is less than 5 mins away, by car.

Day 2

If you’re staying near the square in Healdsburg, go to the Downtown Bakery (on the east side of the square) early in the morning & rub elbows with the (lucky) locals. Have a sticky bun &/or a scone. This bakery is very well known throughout the area. There are benches outside the bakery where the “bench bunch” meets each morning to chew the fat.

On to Napa Wine Country

Here is a beautiful drive that will get you to the Napa Valley. Head out north on Healdsburg Ave and once it gets out of town, it will curve to the right and connect with Alexander Valley Rd & passes Jimtown. This route goes through the beautiful Alexander Valley & Knights Valley. Turn right on Hwy #128 towards Calistoga. This section is lovely. Hanna is a nice winery to visit while driving through this area.

Proceed on to Calistoga.

Most tour books describe the Napa Valley thoroughly. As far as driving through this area is concerned, drive down Hwy 128 from Calistoga to Yountville and then east on Yountville Cross Rd to the Silverado trail & go south to Chimney Rock Winery. Turn around go north back to Calistoga on the Silverado Trail. Oakville Cross Rd, Rutherford Cross rd & the others linking #128 with the Silverado Trail are quite pretty.

There are lots of world famous wineries in this areas. I recommend visiting:

Robert Mondavi for the most complete tour on the grape growing & wine making process. Reserve a couple of days ahead at 707 968-2166 www.robertmondavi.com

Berringer for some lovely grounds & a very pretty Victorian “Rhine House”, but they don’t make wine at this site.

Sterling for the best views, but the line for the gondola ride to the tasting room will sometimes have a long wait.

Domaine Chandon to learn how Champagne (sparking wine) is made and for nice grounds & a lovely terrace to buy & taste some champagne & relax.

Neibaum-Coppola for the best gift shop & movie mementos (Francis Ford Coppola owns the winery) and very pretty buildings & grounds.

Silver Oak to taste the best Cabs (if available for tasting).

Clos Pegas for some unusual art & a lawn where you can picnic.

Silverado Vineyards for another good view of the Valley.

There are scads of great restaurants in the area. I find myself going back to:
Terra
Mustards
Martini House
Tra Vigne to wander around & pick up a picnic lunch (not a real fan of the cuisine). The building & grounds are quite nice. If you are not a “foodie”, this probably be the most fun place for a nice dinner in the Napa Valley.

Reserve at least a week ahead for all the above restaurants – perhaps more than 2 weeks ahead on summer weekends. Serious foodies will like Terra & Martini house the best & they are a little more formal. Families with kids will probably prefer Mustards or Tra Vigne.

Day 3

Perhaps catch a final winery on your way out of the Napa Valley. Mondavi opens at 9:00 and the first tour is a lot more calm & relaxed than later ones.

Go south on #29 towards San Francisco. Where #29 hits #121, go west on #121 (follow the signs to SF). Connect with #37 & then #101 back to SF.

Stu Dudley

Places to visit along the coast south of San Francisco

Heading south from SF along the coast, these are places we like to visit:
1. Devil's Slide view from Hwy 1
2. Sam's Chowder House for lunch
3. Half Moon Bay - Main St
4. Half Moon Bay - walk on beach at end of Kelly St and/or Poplar St
4. Ano Nuevo when sea lions are there - Dec thru March
5. Victorian houses in Santa Cruz
6. Monterey Bay Aquarium
7. Pacific Grove shops & Victorian houses
8. Pacific Grove drive along coast on Ocean View Blvd/Sunset Dr to Spanish Bay
9. 17 Mile Drive
10. Carmel shops, beach, & cottages
11. Carmel - walk or drive along Scenic Rd. from Carmel Beach parking lot.
12. Pt Lobos State Park (must see)
13. Drive south on Hwy 1 - Bixby Bridge
14. Pfeiffer Beach. Just past Pfeiffer campground (on inland side of rd) There is a small bridge. Past the bridge there is a road on your right leading uphill with a gate across it. Just past this road there is another road leading slightly downhill with lots of street signs - mostly facing the other way. Take this road to the beach - it's a couple of miles long. Beautiful beach.
14. Relaxing lunch or dinner at Nepenthe - fantastic views. I consider this a must see.
15. Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park & waterfall
16. More scenic Hwy 1 till San Simeon

Things that I think are a tad over-rated:
1. Monterey Cannery Row (aproaching Fisherman's Wharf in tackiness)
2. Cambria - it's not Carmel
3. Santa Cruz Boardwalk is not my type of thing - it may be yours
4. Santa Cruz Downtown - I liked it much more before the earthquake.


Stu Dudley

San Francisco – Airport to Lombard St Hotels Scenic Route

Get a AAA map of San Francisco. Also the AAA map of Daly City & So. S.F. would be helpful for following this route

Leave the car rental complex, and get on 101 south towards San Jose. In about 5 miles, take Hwy 92 west to Half Moon Bay. 92 will be all freeway until it intersects Hwy 280, but continue on 92 to Half Moon Bay. There will be a stop light just after the “fast” part of 92 stops & becomes a smaller road. This drive gets quite scenic from here on. Continue past the huge reservoir (where SF gets its drinking water), and up over the coastal mountains. Then descend into Half Moon Bay. One block shy of Hwy #1, there will be a stop light (the first one past the light where the fast part of 92 ended). There is a Shell station to the left & an Olympic (I think) to the right. This is Main St. Turn left & proceed into the very cute village of Half Moon Bay. Park the car & walk around – there are lots of cute shops in this area. My wife’s favorite knotting shop is here. If you are hungry, there is an excellent sandwich shop on the north side of the San Benito Hotel. You can eat the sandwich at one of the outside tables, or stop along the coast to have a lunch.

Continue south on Main St and you will join Hwy #1 going south. After about 2 miles you will get fabulous views of the coast. There are several stopping places along the way. Continue south and stop at San Gregorio State Beach. Proceed south again and stop at Pescadero State Beach.

Turn the car around & head back north. I think the vistas are prettier in this direction. You get great views of some white cliffs that you can’t see going south. Continue past Half Moon Bay on Hwy #1 towards SF. It is not real scenic until you get to Montara. Just past a restaurant on the left, the coastal views begin again. After a flat section, you will ascend up to “Devil’s Slide” (appropriately named) and the views will be quite nice (for the passenger, not the driver). After a couple of hundred yards, there will be a parking lot on your right, and an entrance to Grey Whale Cove on the left. This is one of our more popular “swimsuit optional” beaches. It’s foggy most of the summer however.

Continue past Devils Slide to Pacifica and then into Daly City. Notice all the multi-colored identical tract houses in this area – it’s quite unique. Soon, Hwy #1 will hit Hwy #35. Get on #35 north towards SF (not downtown SF) – there will be a sharp clover-leaf to the right. This is Skyline Blvd. Continue north on Skyline, and you will see Lake Merced on your right – you are now in SF. Fort Funston is on your left, which was an old WWII bunker complex. It’s fun to explore. Just when the lake starts to be split by a road to the right and you see a “boathouse”, turn left onto the Great Highway – it will be the first left after you see the lake. Continue north on the Great Highway and look behind you for some great views down the San Mateo Co. coast. You will pass Golden Gate Park and at the Cliff House, you will swerve to the right. Just past Louis restaurant, pull into a dirt lot on the left (or a paved one on the right), and take a look at the remains of the Sutro Bath House. There are markers with explanations on the bluffs overlooking this place. The coastal views are quite nice too.

Leave the Sutro Baths and follow the road and you will immediately be on Geary Blvd going east. Continue east on Geary, and at 34th Ave, turn left. This will take you into & through a golf course and to the Palace of the Legion of Honor. The Legion houses many exhibitions and also has the largest collection of Rodin statues outside of Paris. At this point, get the camera out – you won’t believe the views coming up. Continue past the Legion of Honor, veering to the right as the road curves and on to El Camino Del Mar. There will be a golf course on both sides of you and you will get fantastic views of the Golden Gate, and also the Golden Gate Bridge – hopefully there will be no fog.

Just when the golf course ends and you begin to see some houses, look for a viewing platform down to the left in the middle of the golf course. Park the car & get out for some nice views & picture taking. Back in the car, continue on El Camino into the Seacliff area – probably our most exclusive homes – you’ll be able to see why. Stay on El Camino, but make left turns whenever you can and get on to Seacliff Ave. When you hit the Y where El Camino turns right & you turn left onto Seacliff Ave – immediately in front of you is a house with a hedge around it, and a topiary dragon peeking up over the hedge. This is where Robin Williams lives. At this junction if you always take left turns, you will immediately hit a dead-end – with China Beach to your right. Get out of the car & walk down to this beach. It is quite scenic with views of the Seacliff area, the beach, and the Golden Gate Bridge.

Continue through Seacliff on Seacliff Ave & you will shortly have to make a sharp right. After the right, turn left on to 25th Ave, and exit the Seacliff area (there will be 2 stone pillars as you exit). Take the first left onto Lincoln Blvd & get the camera ready again. You will see more fantastic views of the GG Bridge. Stop & take more pictures. Continue on Lincoln & you will go under the bridge. You will need to make a decision now. The most fantastic views in the entire Bay Area (in my opinion), are on the other side of the bridge - up high from the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). This excursion will take 45 mins or so. You should definitely take it now if the weather is nice. The fog could come in later, and this view is much better in the evening, than in the morning when the sun is in your face. You will have the opportunity to take this excursion in a few days when you head up north into the wine country. If you choose to take it now, immediately after going under the bridge, take a left & go on the GG Bridge. I will not describe this route here – see the description under “North of San Francisco” in my other post.

Continue on Lincoln Blvd, past a cemetery & drive through the parade grounds of the Presidio. This entire Presidio area was still a military base until it was closed in the 80s. It is now a US park, and is being converted into other uses (a long story). Stay on Lincoln, and follow the signs to the “Lombard Gate” - to Presidio Ave & then Lombard St. After you exit the Presidio, you will be in the Lombard St Motel area in two blocks

Stu Dudley

San Francisco Hotel Locations

San Francisco Hotel Areas
It seems that about once every week, there is a discussion about “where to stay” while visiting San Francisco – especially for first timers. Most people ask about either the Union Square, Fisherman’s Wharf, or the Marina hotel areas. Here are some thoughts, with a little of my bias thrown in:

1. Union Square - This is downtown’s fashionable shopping/dining/hotel area. The “Grand” hotels are here, and a few blocks north on Nob Hill (very steep to walk there, however). The big department stores are close by, along with many smaller shops and “boutique” hotels. It is also next to the theater district. Perhaps our most “elegant” restaurants are in this area (Fleur de Lys, Farallon, Masa’s, Ritz Carlton, Postrio, etc). There are fewer “simple”, “Mom-n-Pop”, or ethnic restaurants than you will find in other parts of the City – except a little west in the Tenderloin, which might scare a few first timers at night. The Cable Cars run by Union Square, so you can get to the Wharf area quickly. You can get off the Hyde St C.C. line at Union St for a walk downhill to Union St/Chestnut St (Cow Hollow/Marina). The major drawback is it’s proximity to the gritty Tenderloin, which is immediately west & south of Union Square. I don’t know if crime rates are higher, but you will feel a little more threatened than you will in the other two districts I’ll describe. There are many high-rise buildings, so there’s a little less sunlight than you will find elsewhere. Union Sq. is perhaps not as “family oriented” as the other two hotel areas. It gets more business travelers, and people who want a little more “luxury” in their hotel. Union Square is a bit “dead” on Sundays, and not as lively as the other places in the evening. I don’t enjoy strolling after dinner in this area as much as I do on Union St/Chestnut St. If you have a car, you will regret it. Parking is very expensive ($50 per night or so), and driving is difficult.

On the Embarcadero east of Union Square, there are several nice hotels. The Ferry Building is there which has recently been refurbished and has a “food oriented” theme. There is a Saturday Farmers market at the Ferry building. This area is quite active on a work week. Many people prefer this location to Union Square because of it’s proximity to the Bay and the views. You can catch a ferry from the Embarcadero, and it’s somewhat of a short walk to ATT park, where you can take a tour if the Giants are not playing.

2. Fisherman’s Wharf. The Wharf is mostly inhabited by tourists. Plenty of souvenir shops selling T-shirts & other things to remind you of your visit to SF. Local entertainment includes a wax museum, Ripley’s Believe-it-or-Not, and now a Hooters – things kids might enjoy (except for the Hooters). You won’t find many locals in this area (and if you did – they wouldn’t admit it). Most restaurants are tourist oriented, and most locals feel they are mediocre at best. Good proximity to the Cable Cars, which is a plus. Nice views out into the Bay. It’s also within walking distance of North Beach, which should be on everyone’s agenda for at least one Italian dinner and “people watching” evening. With the Cable Cars, it’s quick to get downtown, but you might have to wait in line for 30 mins or so at peak times. It’s about a 30 min walk to the Union St/Chestnut St areas (see 3rd option for description). The Wharf is a perfectly safe area (from crime, vagrants, etc). Hotels usually charge $25-$40 per day for parking. Lively (with tourists) every day. If you want to stay in a typical non-San Francisco environment, this is a good choice.

3. Marina. There are many motels along Lombard St, which are (in general) cheaper and much more simple than the ones you will find in the other two districts. The main advantage to this area, in my opinion, is that it has more typical SF “flavor” than the other spots. Lombard St is one block from Chestnut St, and three blocks from Union St. Both these streets are loaded with boutiques, restaurants, and buildings with unique architecture (Victorians on Union, Art Deco on Chestnut). When we first moved to San Francisco almost 33 years ago, I remember a poster that said “If you left your heart in San Francisco, you will probably find it on Union St”. This is a residential area and you will find many locals doing their daily “stuff.” On a Sunday morning (especially if it’s sunny) you will see many folks going to the exercise studio, having breakfast at one of the many outdoor café’s, and standing on the street with their “lattes” and chatting with friends. There are no “elegant” restaurants in this area, but many of the type that locals enjoy (Isa, Betelnut, PlumpJack, Balboa Café, A16). This is a good area for strolling during the day, before dinner, and after dinner – it is quite lively, especially on weekends. It’s about a 30 min walk to the Wharf, where you can catch a Cable Car (or walk up Union St to catch the CC). East of the Union St shopping area, (just past Van Ness) is Polk St, where there are more nice shops & restaurants. Also on Polk St is La Folie, which is one of my favorite restaurants (if someone else is buying) and also one of the highest “rated” in the City. This is a perfectly safe area. One of it’s best advantages, is that you can park a car free at many of the Motels. Also, it is an easy area to drive in (although there are steep hills just south), and it’s a quick trip across the Golden Gate bridge to my favorite view in all the Bay Area (GGNRA, just north and to the west of the Bridge).

Stu Dudley

Noe Valley Stairway Walk

There is a book titled “Stairway Walks in San Francisco” written by Adah Bakalinsky. I really enjoy many of the walks in the book, because they take you to nooks & crannies in the City that most people don’t know about – longtime residents included. The book, however, does not include a Noe Valley walk, although there is a section titled “List of Stairways” that includes several stairs in the Noe Valley. With this list and an AAA map, I set out one day several years ago to create my own stairway walk - in my favorite area of the City.

Get an AAA map so you can follow the route I’m describing – the map will make the walk much easier to follow.

The walk starts on Duncan, just west of Sanchez St. Park the car there, or take the J-Church to 27th street and walk 1 block west and 1 block south to the corner of Duncan & Sanchez. The 24 Divisadero also services this area.

Head west on Duncan & walk up the stairs at the end of Duncan, to Noe St. On Noe, turn right & walk 1 block to the steps heading “up” (west – to the left) on 27th. The steps are next to an apartment complex, and 27th is really just a right-of-way here. Walk up the steps to a “platform”, and enjoy the views from there. Continue west on 27th .
As you walk west on 27th (just after ascending the stairs), you will see some wooden stairs on the south side of the 27th. Proceed up these stairs – they are a public right-of-way. At the top, it will look like you’re near someone’s front yard. Notice the metal statuary around. Turn left and proceed south along a driveway and then up a hill. This is not private property – it’s actually Castro St right-of-way. There is a dirt knoll with a bench on top – try to walk there. Sit on the bench & rest a bit. There is a lovely view of downtown from here – if they would only chop down the tree that’s in the way. Walk down (south) on the other side of the knoll, to Castro St and follow Castro ½ block until you see the stairs going down – walk down the stairs to 28th St.

At the bottom of the Castro St stairs, turn right (west) on 28th and immediately cross the street to the south sidewalk of 28th. Continue to walk west on 28th, admiring the strange houses on the north side of the street. Turn left (south) on Diamond and walk 1 block to the stairs on the east side of Valley St. Walk down (east) the Valley St stairs and continue on to Castro St. Continue to walk on Valley (past Castro), and walk on the south side Valley – noting the strange street cut-away along Valley. Turn right (south) on Noe & go 2 blocks & turn right (west) on Day St. Continue on Day till you get to the end of Day & see two sets of stairs going up. Proceed up either set to Castro. Turn left (south) on Castro & walk to 30th St, & turn right on 30th. 30th St will dead end. 30th St is considered to be the southern boundary of the Noe Valley.

At this section of 30th between Castro & the dead end, there are some houses to the north and “Billy Goat Hill” to the south (yes – there were goats here). Try to find the dirt path that goes up Billy Goat Hill – and follow it up to a very interesting area with some neat views. There are several benches around Billy Goat Hill and an old tree with some ropes that kids probably use to swing in the trees. This is a fun area to explore. Find Beacon St on the “other” (south) side of Billy Goat Hill, & turn left on to Beacon after exiting the Billy Goat Hill area. Continue southeast along Beacon – there are many 70s & 80s style houses/condos in this area with some great views. Continue along Beacon and find the Harry Street stairs between 200 and 190 Beacon St. These are the “neatest” stairs on this walk. Proceed down (east) the wooden stairs and admire the houses along the way, the gardens, and the wonderful ambience of this area – you won’t believe that you are still in a big city. The stairs end at Laidley St.

Laidley St has some very interesting architecture. If you are interested in unique architecture, turn right (southeast) at the bottom of the stairs & walk up & back “lovely” Laidley a bit. The views from inside these homes are fantastic (I’ve been inside a few). After admiring the homes on Laidley, proceed to 30th St. and turn east on 30th & walk two blocks to Sanchez St. At Sanchez, turn left (north) & walk back downhill 5 blocks (actually, 5 half-blocks) to Duncan where the walk started.

Stu Dudley

Stu, MANY THANKS for such a comprehensive package. It will make our upcoming trip so much easier to plan and then enjoy.

Later when I searched for "San Francisco" in the US Forum, for a reason I can't figure out, this particular post which you began today does not come up in the search results????

Luckily I bookmarked it.

Passing this along FYI. It would be such a loss for forum visitors not to find your post if they only search for SF and it doesn't appear in the search results.

wintkat

Great resource.

I enjoy stopping at Pescadero, which is just inland off of Highway 1 for lunch at Duarte's when I'm headed up or down the San Mateo County coast. There are a couple of funky shops and Phipps Country Market as well.

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to put this together - it is much appreciated!

Thanks so much for your post. Now it's off to Staples for more ink cartridges.

ttt as always, thanks, Stu. annie

Wow, Stu you're the best! Must bookmark this & later copy it to a word doc for future use.

As I told Mr. and Mrs. StuDudley at our SF GTG..I always think of Stu as "Mr San Francisco" and this is the reason why I do.

What a wonderful thread Stu..you are a true treasure!

You did it! You did it!

Thanks so much for reposting this, Stu!

Thank you so much for this information, Stu. I am printing it out for our future trip.

bookmarking for September trip
Thanks
Hilary

Stu,

I, too, am a San Francisco native and lived in the Bay Area for 51 years until I moved to Montana. Your list is a fabulous and generous gift. It's incredibly comprehensive and accurate. You've also "given away" some of my favorite and comparitively little know places

Best regards to you and your wife,
-doo

Mucho thanks from me as well, Stu. How gracious of you to do this.

Stu -

Harry Street! You have no idea how many blank looks I've encountered when I've described my walks up and down this staircase way. I find the vistas from Harry quite incredible - it's almost like some mythical Arcadia, with the big trees and lush greenery.

Thank you for pointing out the city within the City.

d.

Many thanks. Bookmarking

These have always been great recommendations Stu and putting them all on one post would probably answer about 90% of the questions posted about SF. Now how to get people to use the search function to find this!!!!

Stu, glad you 'turned up' with this - I wanted to thank you for the superb Sunday morning we spent in the Marin headlands during our SF trip. We did this mainly thanks to your 'number 16' . As soon as the dog stops eating my homework, I will post about the trip in more detail.

Also loved the view from the Legion of Honour - again a 'Stu' recc. Thanks again!

>>As soon as the dog stops eating my homework, <<

Does that excuse still work???

Stu Dudley

You are wrong on so many counts, Stu!

Hahahaha.
Sorry. Just being a contrarian.

We live in the East Bay and I'm just starting to plan some fun day trips with my kids. Thanks for all the great ideas and details!

Harry was on another of my regular runs (I try to incorporate as many steps as possible and was living at 30th and Sanchez at the time). Went and looked at a cottage on it about a year ago. Yikes, 1.1 mill. Still love it. We call it Harry Path. Gets everyone giggling.

Great resource. Thanks for going to all the trouble.

topping for new readers this week

Stu Dudley

Stu - as others have stated, thank you for sharing your knowledge of this area of California. You're generous....

Thank you Stu. you've given us an invaluable resource.

Stu, what great information. Wish I had this, I just returned from SF and the wine areas. two things I would like to note -

1. I found the Haight to be a horrible area. I wouldn't call the folks hanging around on Sunday mornings as aging hippies, I would term them 'homeless' and quite aggressive. DH and I intended to take the walking tour, but just didn't feel comfortable hanging around waiting. Alamo Square was worth the looksee....

2. Off of Dry Creek Road in Sonoma, we found a wonderful cluster of wineries. Turn at the Family winery sign, go up the hill and you will find a parking lot with several small producers. Our favorites - PapaPietro Perry - wonderful Pinots, Pederson - nice cabs, and Amphora - lots of good Pinots. Would have never found them if John at Ferrari Caranos didn't tell us.

Great post, Stu. I'm planning a belated November 25th anniversary for us. Novemeber to coordinate with a particular 9ers game.

Thanks, Stu, for posting such a wealth of information.

Stu -- I think your recommendations should be ttt-ed weekly so people can find it easier.

WOW! I just started looking this minute to begin to plan a trip to the west coast next year and I put "west coast" in the search field and this came up! Bonanza!

What time of year do folks recommend for a 2 week trip, starting in Seattle and driving down to San Francisco?

Hello plafield, in my opinion September would be the perfect month. Kids back in school, beautiful weather etc. I would probably take your trip after Labor Day weekend is finished. Have a lovely time and I am sure you will.

Thank You

....sorry L'Italy...

You're no Stu Dudley.

My suggestion is the same as Loveitaly's - about the second week in Sept till the second or third week of Oct.

Stu Dudley

...you're no LoveItaly, Stu.

What will I be Kal, if I pipe in? I don't have much to add, this post has it all!
LoriNY- Did you visit the Haight during the day or in the evening? I had your same experience at night about a year or so ago, though it was pleasant during the day. Alternatives to the Haight, would be the Castro, Noe Valley and the quieter/smaller Cole Valley. Also Union Street in Cow Hollow is fun, though more upscale shops & dining. I see Stu already mentioned most of what I said, LOL.

When I walk around the Haight, I rarey set foot on Haight St itelf. I wander around Page looking at the Victorians. On any side street, if I see a house that looks interesting or has a new paint scheme I'll hit a few streets between Page & Haight or Page & Oak. I might even wander on the Panhandle side of Oak to admire the Victorians and find the "Wren's Nest" plasterwork decorations in the gables of a few Victorians. Then I'll walk up Masonic (lots of Queen Anne Victorians) to where it ends, and then wander through that area (it's called Corona Heights) - totally different architecture. I'll then walk north (downhill) along the west end the of Buena Vista Park to admore the large homes & the views. Then west on Waller to Cole, up & back on both sides of Cole, then east on Frederick to Downey. Head north & then south on a 1 block stretch of Downey, then south on Downey to Ashbury St. and then north on Ashbury past the Greatful Dead House at 710 Ashbury.

One of the Grandest Victorian houses in San Francisco is the Spencer house at Haight & Baker. It was built around 1895. It remains as one of the fe relatively unaltered free-standing Queen Anne mansions left in San Francisco. It occupies 3 city lots. It's spacious lot & corner location allowed the possibility of trimming the house on all 4 sides. No exterior modification of a significent nature has ever been done to it. It stood peeling & decrepit for 40 years. It was offered for sale in 1975 for $125,000 - a high price at the time. After a resale it received a thorough restoration as a B&B in the '80s with lavish period furniture & fixtures. The attic floor was completly rebuilt and finished as the owners residence. The house was sold as a private residence in 2000 for 3.5 million. (Quoted from "San Francisco, Building the Dream City). Recently, it has undergone another exterior restoration that cost over 1 million. We've visited the interior of the house a few times - and it's magnificent. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in '05.

You'll see a lot more baby buggies on this stroll than wiped-out druggies.

I'll post this again with fewer typos

San Francisco – Stroll around the Haight.

Let's define the Haight (for this purpose) as bordering on Oak St to the north, Divisadero to the east, Stanyan to the west, and 17th to the south. Cole Valley & Corona Heights will be within "my" defination of the Haight

When I walk around the Haight, I rarely set foot on Haight St itself. I wander around Page looking at the Victorians. On any side street, if I see a house that looks interesting or has a new paint scheme I'll hit a few streets between Page & Haight or Page & Oak. I might even wander on the Panhandle side of Oak to admire the Victorians and find the "Wren's Nest" plasterwork decorations in the gables of a few Victorians. Then I'll walk up Masonic (lots of Queen Anne Victorians) to where it ends, and then wander through that area (it's called Corona Heights) - totally different architecture. I'll then walk north (downhill) along the west end of Buena Vista Park to admire the large homes & the views. Then west on Waller to Cole, up & back on both sides of Cole, then east on Frederick to Downey. Head north & then south on a 1 block stretch of Downey, then south on Downey to Ashbury St. and then north on Ashbury past the Greatful Dead House at 710 Ashbury.

One of the Grandest Victorian houses in San Francisco is the Spencer house at Haight & Baker. It was built around 1895. It remains as one of the fe relatively unaltered free-standing Queen Anne mansions left in San Francisco. It occupies 3 city lots. Its spacious lot & corner location allowed the possibility of trimming the house on all 4 sides. No exterior modification of a significant nature has ever been done to it. It stood peeling & decrepit for 40 years. It was offered for sale in 1975 for $125,000 - a high price at the time. After a resale it received a thorough restoration as a B&B in the '80s with lavish period furniture & fixtures. The attic floor was completely rebuilt and finished as the owner’s residence. The house was sold as a private residence in 2000 for 3.5 million. (Quoted from "San Francisco, Building the Dream City”, and the Victorian Alliance monthly newsletter). Recently, it has undergone another exterior restoration that cost over 1 million. We've visited the interior of the house a few times - and it's magnificent. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in '05.

You'll see a lot more baby buggies on this stroll than wiped-out druggies.

Stu Dudley

I don't know if it's been mentioned, but there are two especially nice pieces of architecture on the U of SF campus, a Jesuit school. The church on the corner (which name I forget), and especially the Lone Mountain campus. It was originally a Jesuit residence, I believe, and is a gorgeous old Spanish building with views all around from the back garden. Very nice place to visit for free.

thanks so much for this wealth of information! it will be a treasure for my parents' upcoming trip to San Francisco.

WOW!!!! Can't wait to print and file for next trip. Many thanks!

Bookmarking for Sept trip to Sonoma

Ditto for our resident SF lover.

And a minor coincidence - Stu's early reference to 'the police station on Vallejo' sent a shiver down the spine, having only last night watched Zodiac, which featured the police station at Vallejo.

My daughter and her new hubby will be going on their honeymoon to SF at the end of DEC. What are the weather conditions at this time? They will be there for New Year's Eve . Any suggestions????

Stu, everytime my husband and i plan a trip i get on fodors to get some input and you are writing about our destination place. Thanks for being involved in all the planning and help for italy(tuscany), croatia, san fran and now napa.

ttt

thank you

Oh my goodness!!! I'm just starting to really get into the planning of our trip this Sept and came across this post.
Wow!!! Thank you SO much Stu.
I am thrilled to have found it.
You certainly have gone to a lot of work, and I know I appreciate it, as I'm sure others do.

A huge , huge thank you.

Bookmarking. Thanks, Stu.

Hello Kodi. I always think of StuDudley as Mr. San Francisco.

He is as charming as is his most informative posts and his wife is a very lovely woman. They are now in Europe but they will be home by the time you arrive here.

I always encourage any new or even repeat visitor to San Francisco to pull of StuDudley's posts. He is a true born and bred San Francisco man!

WOW, Stu. Thank you so much for this information.

Bookmkg for Sept trip.

We used parts of your last list (a couple of years ago)and are finally going back so I was thrilled to see that you have updated it with more information. Thanks so much.

We got the AAA map before our last trip -- one of the best things we had with us.

Hey L'Italy!

I thought this guy was Mister SF???

http://www.mistersf.com/



Someone posted this site here long ago.
Good website.

Hi there Kal. Well let's rephrase Stu's description. Stu is OUR Mr. San Francisco!

Hope your weather and air is better, it has improved here!

The last time DH & I were in San Francisco was on our honeymoon almost 25 years ago! So it's only fitting that we are going in March 2009 to celebrate our wedding anniversary!

What good luck to come across this informative thread - thanks, Stu! It will be great fun to rediscover your beautiful city!

2010

L'Italy...

Awesome post on one of my most favorite places in the world!!!

Fantastic, thanks!

bookmarking

hi, Could you please email me your info on Provence?
my email is
brendaschaffer@optonline.net

thank you, brenda

I'm using this again for our upcoming October trip back to San Francisco.

Thank you, Stu Dudley, for the time and generosity of sharing your wealth of information!!

Wow. Stu, the information here is unbelievable. Kudos. Multiple kudos. Every city needs its own Stu-like tour guide.

Mr. Stu, our travel savior. First France, then Italy, and low and behold we just want to take a week in San Francisco and your name pops up. We automatically smile and know our trip will be, again, fantastic because of all your wonderful time, effort, and knowledge. You have become a household name when we talk about traveling.

Thanks again for all your support and for helping all of us truly get the most enjoyment out of our travels.

eholden

P.S. Do you happen to know of a French restaurant in SF that will have good "Cassoulet au confit de canard" like in Sarlat? My husband hasn't stopped talking about it since we have come home from France.

Thanks again!!

Thanks for the "thank you".

I've only had casoulet a couple of times in SF, and was disappointed.

Stu Dudley

Bookmarking for a hopefully near future trip.

Thanks Stu!

This is fantastic - thank you. Would you recommend renting a car for a 4 day trip to SF? Unfortunately, we are staying in a hotel near Fisherman's Wharf. Fortunately, we are staying for free on hotel points.

I would rent a car for 1 or 2 days and get to some of the places that you can't get to easily by other means - views from the GGNRA on the other side of the GG Bridge, Twin Peaks, Presidio, Fort Point, west of Van Ness, Golden Gate park, Ocean Beach around Cliff House, etc.

Stu Dudley

Stu -
We are visiting SF for first time at end of Sept. We have 10 days to see what we can see. We also are visiting Lake Tahoe on way in and Monterey and Yosemite on the way out (home is midwest). We also want to spend at least 1-2 days north of SF in Sonoma/Napa/Muir.

Our concern is where to stay since we want to park free and have a base around SF and ride cable cars, etc. It needs to be a safe, clean place, but we will spend all our daylight hours sight-seeing. I've heard you talk about the Marina near Lombard. Would that fit our description? Or one of the towns out north of GG?

Any info on Tahoe and Yosemite also appreciated.

Great info -

I don't know anything about specific hotels, but any on Lombard St west of Polk St (Motel Row) would be fine. The closer to Van Ness the better. There are some in that region that might not have Lombard St addresses - but the general location is the same. I think there is one on Union & Van Ness (same region as Lombard St motels) which would be a good fit also.

Stu Dudley

Hi Stu
Thanks for all the great info. I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer. First of all we are thinking about visiting San Francisco in the beginning of November but after reading about the weather we are having second thoughts. How cold can we expect it to be that time of year? Also, what do you think about the hotel 480? Thanks for any advice you can give.

This year the weather has been very strange. No rain since about February. Right now we're supposed to get our best weather. It has been chilly & very foggy instead. Even cooler temps predicted for the next few days.

No telling what it will be like in early November. usually it's pretty nice then.

I don't know anything about hotels, since I don't stay in them.

Stu Dudley

Stu -
Thanks for posting such complete routes. We are first time visitors to California. We wanted to see the Golden Gate Bridge. Now we know there's a lot more to do and are excited. We hit SF on 10/1 for three days. Just wanted you to know how much we appreciate your information.

bailey3909

Absolutely wonderful information. I don't need to purchase any books!! Thank you

This is AMAZING! Bookmarking

Another great place to visit is Chinatown and North Beach. There is a parking garage at 766 Vallejo. Take the elevator to the top and get one of the best free views of SF.

scott@urbanstrolls.com
urbanstrolls.com

>>There is a parking garage at 766 Vallejo. Take the elevator to the top and get one of the best free views of SF.<<

Yep - that's my best view #3

Stu Dudley

The one thing that Stu's extremely helpful thread does not need is to be hijacked by someone advertising his own business.

Stumbled across this by accident. Thank you so much Stu!

We spent a lot of the scary 1969 (Zodiac) year in the Bay area with occasional forays into SF when we could afford the bridge toll, which was a real issue back then. We've been back a few times since, but are long overdue.

Because I know how comprehensive your Provence material is, I'm saving all these paragraphs!

Excellent, Stu! Thanks so much. DH and I had a long weekend in SF a few years ago-your list provides many opps for our return visit!

Stu: Where can I find a really good thin crusted pizza? Any recommendations there?

Also, is there any permanent farmers' market set up on a daily basis, similar to the one in Granville Island in Vancouver or the Fairfax Market in LA?

Thanks. Annetti

Amici's used to be on Union St, but I think it moved or maybe closed permanetly.

Don't know of any other thin crust pizza places, and I don't think there is a daily market in SF.

Stu Dudley

Thank you, Stu.

thank you ... great info!!

Denice

A-16 for thin crust.
http://www.a16sf.com/


Last I saw Amici's moved from the Union St location to Lombard in the Marina area.

We pass it on the way out of SF when we take the GG Bridge route.

I know there is one in Vacaville's Nut Tree now.

Thank you, Kal. Just looking for some very good pizza. Anybody else out there with their favorites. Thank you.

What kind of Pizza are you really looking for - besides thin crust?

IMO, there are two different types

1. Standard "Round Table" type with red sauce, sausage, mushroom, pepperoini - etc and it's usually quite filling and it is usually accompanied by beer.

2. "Designer" type, with condiments like sauteed fennel, fresh tomatoes, prosciutto, smoked duck breast, pickeled onions, etc.

I think if you ask 20 people about their favorite Type 1 - you'll get 20 different answers. We like Amici's for the thin crust.

The local paper runs weekly/monthly features about type 2. Personally, I don't recall what some of the paper's favorites are. However, Delfina is probably the most popular Italian type restaurant in the City - but their food is really not even close to 'red sauce" type Italian that you find in North Beach (Little Italy). They also run a Pizza restaurant next door to their main one. That's where I would go for type 2 pizza.

Check www.sfgate.com for details.

Stu Dudley

Once again, thanks, Stu. by the way, we went on the web site for sfcityguides. Totally impressed about what is offered. Unfortunately, we will only have two weeks. The array of choices is incredible.

Here's a round up of some SF favorite thin crust pizza places:

A16 in the Marina--Nepolitan in wood fired oven

Delphina's in the Mission-- neopolitan, not wood fired.

Gialina in Glen Park neighborood--neopolitan, not wood fired.

Pauline's Pizza in the Mission--California style, thin but chewy crust

Goat Hill in Potrero Hill--sort hybrid NY/CA

Beretta in the Mission--neopolitan

Airnell in the Mission--NY style

Ideale in North Beach--Roman style

SAB: That's wonderful!! Thanks very much. I wish we had more than 2 weeks in SF. It just won't be enough! Between the food, the sightseeing tours, the walking neighborhoods, we will not be bored.

Wow, SAB - you know your pizza. I'll have to try a few.

About 6 times each year we go into The City for a Victorian Alliance meeting. It usually finishes about 9:00pm We like to have a pizza afterwards, but we're only familiar with places in the Noe Valley - Haystack Pizza. Now I have some alternatives. Thanks

Stu Dudley

Hey Stu: I'm not a big fan of typical red sauce pizza, so I've learned where I can find the kind I like. BTW Airnell's is not on my agenda, but many young friends who live in the Mission just love it--I'm not a big fan of greasy NY style slices either. But I put it on the list for those who are.

Stu or SAB: Any ideas for a great ice-cream place, not a chain that either of you (or anyone else!) can recommend? Also need some vegetarian restaurants. Thanks in advance.

For vegetarian restaurants -
Millennium
www.millenniumrestaurant.com
and
Greens
www.greensrestaurant.com

R5

Yes, I forgot about Greens. I have Deborah Madison's cookbook. Thanks very much. It will be fun to try it.

My favorite ice cream place is Bi-Rite Creamery in the Mission--salted caramel, totally fabulous!! Strawberry/balsamic, yummy!!! Mitchell's in Mission (sort of) is also an old time favorite. Swensen's on Union St. is also pretty popular.

Thank you once again, SAB. With all Stu's suggestions of what to do and a couple of pizzas and ice-cream, I shall be well-prepared and happy during my two weeks in SF.

for Greens.

Great article Exploring SF by cable car
out today on msn.com

http://travel.msn.com/Guides/article.aspx?cp-documentid=686471&GT1=41000

From the obove mentioned article:

>>POWELL-HYDE LINE: The Powell-Hyde line offers sweeping vistas of the ocean along Hyde Street.<<

I don't think the author knows the difference between the bay and the ocean.

Stu Dudley

I was always under impression, the Bay is perpendicular Hyde St, not "along"

Silly me

Hi Stu

thnks for the wonderful tips and itineraries posted. i will be in SF in mid dec and will do the detour route from the airport to half moon bay to the lombard motels. just a question, where should i turn off if my final destination is san jose instead without missing all the nice bits??

I assume that you plan to head south from Half Moon Bay to San Jose, instead of heading north into the City.

Actually, the route south is much more scenic than the route north, because it is almost all open & beautiful coastline. Lots of places to park the car, admire the coastline, walk on the beach, etc. When the in-laws visit us at Christmas, we most always grab a sandwich at the Bonita house on Main St in HMB, and drive south along the coast, stopping at a beach & have a picnic.

Once past HMB, the routes back inland are winding, scenic, and slow. You'll see more redwood trees than you ever thought existed.

I would drive down the coast till you have seen enough ocean, then head inland at Pescadero Beach, towards the town of Pescadero. Drive into the town of Pescadero & brouse through any shops that are open. There is a popular restaurant called Duarte's Tavern there that is kinda retro. They are famous for their artichoke soup - that I really didn't find that interesting (I love artichokes - had one last night). After Pescadero, keep heading inland. You'll really need a map to get to Hwy 280 because there are several roads you can take. I would perhaps take Hwy 84 through La Honda, Sky Londa, then Woodside, then on to 280. This is a very pretty drive.

Stu Dudley

Actually I am thinking of taking the route you suggested frm SFO-Pacifica-Half Moon Bay-San Jose. I am just wondering how much time this whole route is going to take if we include Pescadero. We arrive SFO at about 11am in the morning and thinking of taking this detour en route to our friend's house where we will be staying the next few days. They are expecting us sometime in the afternoon.

I suppose we can take the same route the opposite way on our way back to SF as well.

My suggested route does not go through Pacifica. No need to do that - as I said the coast north of HMB is not as scenic as the coast south (except for the Devils Slide section). The coast portion south can be very fast - I often go 50-60 mph on that road. The route inland is slower. I would budget 2 1/2 - 3 hrs just to make sure. The sandwich shop in Half Moon Bay has excellent sandwiches - we go there often just to have one. There is an outside dining area where you can have the sandwich, and if the weather is too cool they will let you go into the "old time" bar/cafe to have your sandwich there. I would also add about 30 mins to browse Main St in Half Moon Bay - more if you have the time & you like to shop (it's more interting than Pescadero).

Stu Dudley

notes for April

StuDudley!!!
you helped me immensely while I was planning my trip to Italy for 2006. now here you are again while I am planning a trip to San Francisco. thank you as always for being a great resource

Bike Trip along the Bay, over the Bridge, and to Sausalito.

Here is what I would consider to be a perfect day by the Bay. Rent a bike at Blazing Saddles at Fisherman’s Wharf (or any other bike shop in the City). Blazing Saddles will provide a map and even a ferry ticket back to San Francisco from Sausalito.

Head out and ride next to the Bay through Ft Mason, along the Marina Green, by the St Francis Yacht Club, and along the "Golden Gate Promenade" through Crissy Field. Enjoy the views and lovely atmosphere (no commerce) along this section of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. You’ll get a fabulous view of the Golden Gate Bridge. If it’s near lunch time, pick up some lunch provisions somewhere (Wharf), and have a picnic on one of the many picnic tables spread throughout Crissy Field – or bring a blanket & spread it out on one of the sandy beaches along the way. As you get into some white former-military buildings, look for a pier that’s marked as Fort Point Wharf on the AAA map. It is the last pier before the Golden Gate Bridge. Walk out on this pier & admire the fabulous views. Then continue on to Ft Point. Explore the structure & enjoy the history & views from the ramparts, if Ft Point is open when you’re there. If the surf is up, watch the surfers catch waves next to Ft Point – we love to do this. Turn around & look to the east for some great views of the downtown skyline – especially from the ramparts at Ft Point. Next, get ready for a hill climb and bike over the GG Bridge. At the north end of the bridge, there is a lookout point that is usually crowded with cars if the views are good. Then continue down to Sausalito. Sausalito has some tacky souvenir shops, but not nearly as bad nor as many as those at Fisherman’s Wharf. Also, the village architecture and views are much nicer at Sausalito than at the Wharf. After dawdling in Sausalito, take a ferry ride back to the Wharf.

Do this bike trip so you hit the Bridge in the afternoon on a week day. On weekends, bikers are not allowed on the east side of the bridge, which is the side with the views of SF. Also, in the morning the sun will be in your face for the views to SF from the GG Bridge, so the views won't be that great. Figure out when the sun is highest in the sky, and then start the journey from the Wharf about 1 ½ hrs before “high noon”. This will give you time to enjoy the ride through Ft Mason, the Marina Green & St Francis Yacht Club, Crissy Field, & Ft Point. There are nice bathrooms at the entrance to the Ft Point area. Ft Point itself is only open on Friday, Sat & Sun, so the best day to do this bike trip would be a Friday. You can stop in the Ft Point parking lot, admire the views, and watch the surfers on any day. The Web site for Ft Point is http://www.nps.gov/fopo .

Stu Dudley

Amazing! Thanks Stu.

Bookmarking for April trip.

Wow! Bookmarking.

Thanks Stu! Bookmarking for upcoming SF trip.

stu
is that the sandwich place in HMB that's right on main st? next to an old hotel?
thanks

Yep - It's in the same building as the old hotel. They re-did the outside dining terrace recently.

Stu Dudley

Thank you so much for all the info Stu! We are planning a trip mid April to SF and cannot wait. We leave on a Monday and return on a Saturday. Do you think we can work in a trip to Yosemite? We are first timers in SF so after reading your posts I know there is a lot to do and see. Of course we don't want to miss Napa!

Thanks again for taking your time to help everyone!

Thanks Stu! Great info!

I would not try to fit in SF, Napa, and Yosemite in just 4 1/2 days.

Stu Dudley

WOW! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

We just moved to the Bay Area, and our first real guest arrives today. I knew that the Fodorites would have excellent info on the top sites in the city, but this blows me away!!!!

Thanks, Stu!
MacPrague

Tell your friends that the weather is like this all the time in early February !!!

Stu Dudley

Thank you for taking the time to post such detailed information. My husband and I are going to San Francisco in March. This post is very helpful. Thank you!

I started another thread describing an area that I think is the prettiest on the Calif Coast. I'll include it below, along with some comments from other "locals".


Posted by: StuDudley on Feb 3, 2009 at 01:31 PM
Posted in: United States

I know lots of people are planning to drive on our beautiful Hwy 1 from San Simeon to Carmel. Here is an article from the SF Chronicle about my favorite spot to explore alond the coast.

http://tinyurl.com/Point-Lobos


Stu Dudley

kimamom on Feb 3, 09 at 01:39 PM
Nice article and very informative. We just spent two nights this past December at the Highland's Inn, this is such a gorgeous area of the CA coast! ***kim***


easytraveler on Feb 3, 09 at 02:18 PM
Great article! Thanks for ;posting it, Stu!

Just to add a couple of other points not in the article:

Sea Lion Point Trail is extremely easy and is wheelchair accessible.

I agree with the author that Cypress Point Trail is the best trail.

My second favorite trail is not mentioned, it's the South Shore Trail - very easy, but not wheelchair accessible. Lots of tidepools for the kids - and grownups too!


SAB on Feb 3, 09 at 07:32 PM
We were there this past Sunday and it was truly a spectacular day. And my favorite places Whaler's Cove and Gibson Beach benefitted from the fabulous weather, the ocean was amazingly calm and seals were sun bathing on the rocks.

My sister was enchanted by the ranger who when she asked for a senior entrance fee, said "at what college are you a senior". Such a charming start to a lovely visit.


CanadaKate on Feb 3, 09 at 09:13 PM
Point Lobos is amazing ... one of my favourite outdoor places ever. If you're anywhere near ... go!

topping - 'cause I'm looking for a walking tour the first week of April

I would add some options to Stu's bike ride to Sausalito. We go a bit earlier and have coffee in Sausalito before continuing on to Tiburon. Stop at Mollie Stone's and pick up a picnic lunch and then backtrack to the Bay Model. It's a fascinating replica of the entire Bay and very informative. There are picnic tables there, at the water's edge where you can eat lunch. Then continue on the bike path north to E. Blythedale Ave, which becomes Tiburon Blvd. when it crosses the highway. Continue on to the wharf where you can take a ferry over to Angel Island if you're early enough, or back to SF if you prefer to head back.

A third option is not to turn on Blythedale but continue on to Corte Madera and then Larkspur and ferry back from there. These add some miles and give you a bigger picture of the Bay.

Starrsy...maybe a 5k walking tour?

In addition's to THEE Stu's recs we enjoyed this gal's walking/eating tours of SF.
http://graceannwalden.net/

The Mangia Tour of No Beach was very good and we are trying to put together a Nob Hill tour in May.

Man...Italy, Greece, SF and a new roof. We definitely want to be you when we grow up.

Question: I see on a map that is about 50 miles to Sonoma from SF. Is it a fairly easy day trip to drive to Sonoma, check out a few wineries, and drive back? We don't mind spending 1.5 to 2 hours in the car (one-way), but we don't really want to spend any more time than that in the car. Thanks, again for the detailed recommendations and walks.

Whatever Stu recommends. I'd like to get on one of his wife's tours.

I HATED the tasting tour I took last time in SF. The guy was just not good.

SF definitely and NYC "sometime". Italy/ Greece - "sometime". A lot depends on how much the next two projects will cost. I'll get one quote this afternoon.


kurieff, you can do a day trip easily, but it's so much fun to spend the night. And, if you've not been to Muir Woods definitely try to fit that in!

Hi starrs

My wife conducts the Victorian San Francisco City Guides tours on March 29, and also on April 19. When DebitNM was out here a week ago, she & her husband went on the tour my wife led - and it poured down rain. Yesterday, my wife also led the tour - and it poured down rain again. Do't know if a rain cloud is hanging over my wife's head or not.

Sonoma is an easy 1 hr drive (or less) from the GG bridge. However, I think the Healdsburg/Dry Creek area is more interesting - although it's about another 15 mins to get there on 101.

Stu Dudley

Stu, I was just thinking of taking the Victorian walking tour as I saw something in the paper a few weeks ago and now you mention it here. I'll have to check the dates to see if I can go on your wife's tour. How fun!

Stu: Is there a ferry connection between Sausalito & Tiberon?

2010

Not Stu, 2010, but no, I don't believe there's a ferry connection between Sausalito and Tiburon. Sausalito ferries are part of the Golden Gate Ferry District and Tiburon ferries use the Blue and Gold Fleet.

I have to chime in here on a couple of things. First, be warned if you print this entire thread it will be over 30 pages long [that was 2 weeks ago].

Yes, as Stu said, it rained while we were on the tour with Mrs. Stu [Stu joined us on the tour as well]. It rained hard, the entire tour. In spite of that, we had a wonderful time. Mrs. Stu knows her Victorians, no doubt about that. She is to Victorians as Stu is to SF ideas!! We learned so much and really got a better feel for SF.

We went on a different SF Public Library Tour - City Scapes and Public Places. That was excellent as well. The gentleman guiding us on that one was as passionate and knowledgable as Mrs. Stu. His cute dog, Norton, accompanied us [he even has his own City Guides name tag].

I can't wait to get back to SF for a number of reasons, but going on more of the City Guide tours is a big part of it. These tours are free [donation after the tour is a good idea] and would be worth paying a lot of $$ for!

We also did the free City Hall tour [we were the only 2 people on tour] and it was really good too. We can't wait to see Milk [due out on DVD next week] now.

And we got a tour at SF MoMA on Thursday night [1/2 price admission] and had only 1 other person on tour.

It is amazing what you can do with little cash outlay.

SF is great, even in the rain. Walking is the way to go.

Deb

While we are in San Francisco, my wife wants to visit a Joann store (She has the quilting bug). We have yet to finalise our accommodation bookings, but I expect that we will be staying close to The Embarcadero. It appears that the nearest Joann store is in the El Cerrito Plaza. Is that an area that is reasonably accessible by public transport and would we want to visit that part of the city for any other reason or is it just a suburban shopping district?

Last time I looked GraceAnn was a gal.
She used to be the "Restaurant Gossip" for the SF Chronicle.
Total kick in the pants.

She and her friends now put out the Yummy Newsletter: www.yummyletter.com/newsletter.html

Good source for SF/Nor Cal foodies.

She's the one who turned us on to places like O'Reilly's Holy Grail (sadly now closed but the BEST peat roasted pork shank I ever had and GREAT roasted beets), Perbacco's, 1300 on Fillmore, Acme Chop House, Little City Meats, XOXO Truffles and a few others, etc.

El Cerrito Plaza is a short walk from the BART station in El Cerrito. Takes about 20-30 mins from D'town SF to get out there.
I used to park my car there or El Cerrito del Norte stations and commute into SF.
You get to take the tube under SF Bay too.

Darnit!!
I missed my chance to throw in a "Ummmmmmmmmm.....Last time I looked GraceAnn was a gal".
Curses!

Thanks, Kal.

Prego, k_r....

In case nobody posted it yet: http://www.bart.gov/

Kiwi Rob, Is your wife looking for a JoAnn Fabrics? I read in one of my guidebooks about another fabric store called Britax. It sounds like an amazing fabric store. However, my guidebook is also three years old, so I'm not sure if Britax is still around, but it looked like a great fabric store.

Britex is still there - it's an institution.

Stu Dudley

THEE,
Is Faina in it?

She's in the trimmings section

THEE

Thanks, but oh-oh, there goes another half day of my holiday rummaging in the fat squares and short ends!

Thee....

k_r...Man! If only I had a nickle for everytime I've said that!

Unlike dealing with the fat ends and short squares here.

I agree with starrs, kureiff....while you CAN do it, fairly easily, you may not want to leave once you get up there. Especially if you make it as far as Healdsburg. It would be charming to spend the night then head back.

Stu, your info is fantastic. My brother's family is coming to SF this summer and my 18 yr old daughter and I will meet them in SF. I made a reservation at the Hilton Financial District because it seemed in a good location, goof view etc with reasonable cost. I can probably get upgraded to a suite with breakfast etc and the cost is $149. Is this a mistake due to the area having some crime or other issues? Also, my brother has 7 people and he couldn't find a reasonable place so is getting 2 rooms at the Embassy Suites (govt rate of $120). I'm thinking that my daughter and I will stay in SF vs the airport....any advice is great. Thanks!
I checked the Cow Harbor area, maybe we pay the extra bucks or stay at the motor inn vs the Hilton.

We've stayed at the Hilton FD several times since the remodel and even stayed there when it was the Holiday Inn and never felt threatened and walked all over.

Something going on in that area right now I don't know about?
No big city is crime free so just be aware of your surroundings.

Short walk to NoBeach/Chinatown, Un Sq., Fish/Wharf and even the Embarcadero.

I suggest getting a room with a northern view: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/332065/photo3.html

That is good to know that it is safe and the view does look great, good tip on asking for a northern view room. I like the short walk and don't plan on getting a car. We only have 5 days. My brother and his crew are getting a car. So many options, it's going to be tough to narrow them down. I printed everything and will get the AAA map.

Here is a story that appeared in yesterday's SF Chronicle.

http://tinyurl.com/gun-nests

It describes the military defenses built around San Francisco for an anticipated WWII invasion by the Japanese. Most of these gun turrets, bunkers, batteries, housing sites, etc. still remain and are now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). They're fun to explore. The best ones I've found are on my "Places with Great Views" section in the first post on this thread. They are on #16. If you want to see even more batteries, when you get to the top of the #16 drive on Conzelman Dr. there is a small one-way road that continues. Follow this road for more fantastic views of the ocean, the Golden Gate, and the fortifications. There is even a Nike Missile site. Most of the roads are one-way - just follow your nose & explore every road you can take. There is a very nice Visitors Center in this area - you'll pass it. Get the AAA map for "Sausalito & Mill Valley" if you want a map to follow. This is a beautiful area - it's hard to imagine that the city of San Francisco is just across the bay - this area is really remote. Make sure you drive past Fort Cronkite and visit the beautiful beach there. This is a great place to picnic. You can walk to a lighthouse too (don't know if there are any restrictions).

Stu Dudley

Stu
This is such a wonderful thread you have started. I will be in SF in a few weeks and plan to use it extensively. Do you have this in Word format? You were kind enough to send me your Provence writeup in the past so is it possible to get this as well. I would so grateful.
ahotpoetatyahoodotcom

I have most of it in several Word documents, but it would be just as easy for you to cut & paste what you want from this post.

Stu Dudley

But Stu, I want it all!
OK I will do the cut paste thing.

Stu,
What is the hottest restaurant in San Francisco now?

I don't follow the "hot" bandwagon - I wait till they cool down a bit.

Stu Dudley

Thanks Stu - This is awesome information and will be very helpful when I am in the SF area - hopefully in the next couple of months.

Good call Stu.
We went to the new, The Tipsy Pig on Chestnut in the Marina last weekend but too lazy to write a TR.

Open 3 weeks.
Good grub but they are still working out the delivery because a few plates were just warm...very helpful service and a funky decor.

The braided pretzel bread with cheddar cheese sauce and the onion fritters with chipolte BBQ sauce were killah'.

Ditto the pork chop and sliders. We'll go back in a few mos.

Downside...VERY LOUD. Louder than the usual "hip loud" places.
The owner/mgr asked us how we liked it as we were leaving and told him about the noise and he said they were working on it.

We also went to The Epic Roasthouse and what more can you say about it? We will def go back especially for the 3B Special in the Quiver Lounge. Burger, beer and brownie with a great view.

We almost went to the Epic Roadhouse for lunch the last time we were in town.
Sounds like a fun meal Kal

ttt

Stu...

Wow! What a wealth of information and thanks for topping! I'm planning a trip to San Francisco in July and just saw this post. I haven't had a chance to read through it all, but will savor all the great information I know it holds.

You were kind enough last year to send me your Provence information and it was fantastic as I'm sure this is too!

Thanks Stu! I've read other posts of yours regarding the area in the past few months as we are heading to the wine country and San Francisco a week from today. I've looked for your driving tour post before and couldn't find it. Glad all of this is in one spot! Look forward to using this info! Thanks again!

WOW! I'm almost overwhelmed w/ all the great info....now to try to figure out what to do w/ 3 full and 2 half days in your area...for sure want to do the wine country...where would you stay in Healdsburg that might not quite break the bank for 2 nights?
Also, how long a drive from there back to San Fran airport? Thanks for all the information. I need a nap after reading all of it!!!!

This thread made our trip to San Francisco most enjoyable. It was better than every guidebook. Thank you, Stu!

This is our trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/trip-report-san-francisco-monterey-wine-country.cfm

The time for the drive from Healdsburg to the airport entirely depends on the day of the week & time of day. You may hit 3 different traffic jams on a work day & it could take 2 1/2 hrs. Early on a Sunday, it might take as little as 1 1/2 hrs.

We stay with friends in Healdsburg, so I'm not familiar with hotels there.

Thanks for the kind words, traveller1959 - come back soon !!!

Stu Dudley

Hi Stu and Kim, I haven't been here for a while, and am lost with this new website, but will get use to it in time. So, what's new? Have you been to Half Moon Bay Oceano Hotel? I highly recommend for beauty and luxury. I've stayed several times and in different rooms, they are all equally fabulous! Remember the chef from Two Fools? He has Oceano's kitchen so the lounge and room service food is wonderful. Crab Landing is opened and also delightful. Beautiful and quality decor, granite tables, artistic chairs, blue light stairs, great harbor view, I love it! Only one meal so far, and I'm looking forward to return visits. Please note, The Old Pillar Point Inn is beautifully refresh, thanks to Oceano. Same silky bamboo sheets, decor, flat screen tv's, refrigerators, etc. It had gotten too worn to suggest, but now I do recomend without hesitation and enjoy staying there myself. Of course, Landis Shores B&B is still excellent and my love for the Beach House continues. I've walked by Princton Seafood many times and finally stopped in. It is now another favorite, their Hot Bread was a great surprise.
Guess that's all I have to add, wish I was in Half Moon Bay right now!

Stu, your write up is quite amazing. We have also used your Tuscany & Provence write ups extensively.
Anyhow, we have just returned from our 3rd trip to SF (our daughter lives there), and thought I'd post a few 'off the beaten track' suggestions:

- A very interesting day trip from SF is the Egyptian Museum in San Jose. This place is hard to describe, with several exotic temple type buildings, but it's very unique with lots of photo ops and an extensive collection of artifacts.
- Another very pleasant town for exploring is Palo Alto. The downtown has lots of nice restaurants, the Borders is in an old mission type building, and the Stanford Campus is stunning.
- The back roads connecting the Point Reys area with the Petaluma area are very, very scenic.
- Clement street near 7th. This is the 'other' Chinatown. Not as photogenic as the big Chinatown, but better for shopping,and sprinkled with many interesting restaurants including the famous Burma Superstar.
- For a unique vegan experience, check out one of the several Cafe Gratitude's throughout the bay area and in SF.
- Two hotels we have stayed at and found to be a good value are the Kabuki and the Laurel Inn. The Kabuki, which is in Japantown, is especially nice. The rack rates on these hotels is over $200, but they often run very good specials.

Hello we will be in SF for a few days the last week of this month. We are actually flying into SF on Friday 5-22 spending the night, driving to Sonoma and staying Sat & Sun then on to Yosimite Mon - Wed and back to SF for Thur and Fri leaving Sat. I know it sounds like a lot of traveling but we've never been to California and wanted a sampling to see if we might want to return. The middle part of the trip is booked but not the SF part. I hate to be one of those first timers wondering where to stay in SF but that has been my hardest decision. 2 weeks left and still no hotel!! I thought I had decided on the first night maybe the Westin or Hilton because I like the idea of a downtown hotel with a view and then Fishermans Wharf for the last 2 nights but then I started reading this and I'm back to square one. I don't want to stay somewhere tacky! There are a lot of good rates right now but do you have any specific hotel recommendations? Not too expensive but a fun area. We are both 50 and will have our 20 year old son with us. Thanks

There have been dozens & dozens of past posts about where to stay in San Francisco. That's where I would look for advice. I'm not a big fan of staying at the Wharf - so I would vote for a downtown location around Union Sq. Along the Embarcadero at the foot of Market St would be nice too.

Most people enjoy California. I got a chuckle from your statement about sampling Calif to see if you want to return. I believe San Francisco is the most popular tourist destination in the US, Yosemite is the most remarkable National Park in the US, and judging from the number of people visiting the wine country - it sure seems to be popular. Our housing prices here in the Bay Area are the highest in the US - so lots of people want to live here too. Unfortunatly, you be here on Labor Day weekend, and you'll really only have 1 1/2 days in each location - not enough time.

Stu Dudley

Thanks Stu I know it's too much to see in too little time. I didn't mean to sound insulting about wanting to return to California only perhaps where we might want to visit a second time. We seem to gravitate to warm beaches usually, Florida, Mexico, the Carribean etc. Yosemite is what drew us to California, we love to be outdoors,hike and bike. I will search on!

By the way do you know if Cityscape on top of the Hilton is still open? I don't see a reference on their website and web searches don't turn up much. It appears they are turning it into a private venue but I really couldn't find much in print.

Nope - Don't know

Stu Dudley

I believe you are correct.

I stayed there after the Henry Hunan's Fodor's GTG and tried to get up there for a "Final final" and no button in the elevator.
Read about the private parties later.
Sad too, because it was a very nice place for a cocktail and a view.

What time do you get in on the 22nd.
Rumors of a small party being bandied about.

>>Rumors of a small party being bandied about<<

Kal - what's up your sleeve???

Stu Dudley

THEE....

Stu, just adding my thanks for posting all of this. We will be in the city next weekend and looking forward to it. It think it's been at least 10 years since we've been there for fun.

Hi- Have been ready all of Stu Dudley's fabulous suggestions and have incorporated them into our upcoming trip trip to Calif.
We Have time to do maybe two or three of the city guide tours and want to know which ones we shouldn't miss. Can you help?

A lot depends on your interests...

Many like the Cityscapes & Public Places. The Palace Hotel is nice. We enjoyed Chinatown, Haight Ashbury, Gold Coast, Victorian San Francisco and Landmark Victorians of Alamo Square (natch - my wife is one of the guides), & Nob Hill. Then there are 2 walks you might not want to tell your friends you went on - Prostitution Tour, and Bawdy & Naughty (we've been on neither).

Stu Dudley

topping

Stu, my wife were in San Francisco for a long 4th of July weekend, and I just wanted to thank you for bringing the Noe Valley neighborhood to my attention via this thread.

Unfortunately, we put off our Noe Valley stroll until our last full day, which happened to be the 4th itself. I say unfortunately because we would no doubt have made it over there a couple of times otherwise. At least the Farmers Market was going on even though it was the 4th. We had a great breakfast (lunch) at Savor.

We also rented bikes and rode across the Golden Gate Bridge, due in part to your write-up in this thread.

Glad you enjoyed the Noe Valley !!! We love Savor too.

Stu Dudley

I used to live in Noe Valley! It is a great neighborhood (Stu, I know this is crazy, but we recently stopped and got dinner to-go from Haystack Pizza -- now THAT was a "blast from the past"!)

It has a GREAT tea room too
http://www.lovejoystearoom.com/

Past ????? - we still go to Haystack pizza.

We went there all the time in the 70s when we were working on our Victorian house. Once, we were so tired from working late at night, that I fell asleep at the table at Haystack.

Stu Dudley

Two Haystack stories: 1) When my son was born (1984), for the first 3 or 4 weeks, we had Haystack delivered nightly -- and I think I ate the same thing every night, which was chicken with mushrooms and broccoli on the side! and 2) I once saw a woman come out of Haystack falling down drunk and fumbling with her keys at her car. Knowing the police always ate at Haystack, I went in, apologized to the table of 5 or 6 police officers, and told them wha I saw. They got right up, went outside and took her keys from her!

Do you remember the chicken scarpariello at Little Italy? I sure would love the recipe for that dish! (That and the warm zabaglione were my two favorites at Little Italy)

>>Do you remember the chicken scarpariello at Little Italy?<<

I usually ordered the Sausage Contadina or the sweetbreads. Asparagus sauteed with garlic too.

Stu Dudley

I love, love, love Sondini's Green Valley. Stu, sf? Have you been there? When I was in high school, my Englsih Literature teacher took us up to San Francisco from the burbs for a tour of some book exhibit. He took us for lunch there. I don't remember anything about the book thing, but I still remember the ravioli I had for lunch that day! I think it was just called Green Valley back then (1975). I have been back many times and love it.

Stu, just wanted to let you know that a friend of mine who's never been to the City is coming over to pick my brain and that of my husband in order to prepare for his trip there with friends. (Hubby and I are both natives but living in Bozeman, MT now.) All I'm going to do is bring up this link and set him loose with it! You've provided everything he needs to know and he can read it at all hours, too. Thanks Stu - you're the best

Another former Noe Valley girl here(Duncan between Church and Sanchez). It's a great neighborhood to poke around and you can then wander down into the Mission(Delfina,Tartine) or Bernal Hgts.

Just copied/pasted/printed all 22 pages of Stu's info (minus the Wine country parts)! THANK YOU!!! AWE-some!

Hi Stu, I am wondering if the Noe Valley walk is better on a Saturday or a Sunday. Does it matter? We'd probably be out and about in the afternoon on either day. Thanks.

Either day is fine.

Stu Dudley

Bill~then it will be a short drive to Flora Grubb.

Thanks Stu and PamSF.

These country/suburban mice are headed to the city from the hinterlands of Palo Alto on September 5,6 and 7 to celebrate our first wedding anniversary! Can't wait! We want to explore the city on foot mostly. Not sure where we are staying yet.

Oh you mice! I send you most hearty congratulations and well wishes on your first wedding anniversary!

On the 5th, we'll spend our 38th anniversary at Boulevard.

Stu Dudley

Congratulations! I like sitting at those little two person banquet type tables they have along the wall midway into the restaurant. I love Boulevard.

I am contemplating Teatro Zinzanni for the evening of the 5th. Never been.

Better get tickets ASAP - that's Sat night.

Stu Dudley

Mr. Dudley, we will be staying at the JW Marriott (500 Post Street) next week when we visit San Francisco. We are thinking about eating at Perbacco, which shows up to be one mile from the hotel. Would it be safe to walk there, or should we take a cab?

Are there other fairly nice restaurants within walking distance that we should consider? We are not foodies, and hubby likes meat.

While I'm not THEE Stu we've walked dozen of times from the UnSq area to the Perbacco area. I'd walk down Post to Kearny or Montgomery then turn on Calif.

Well traveled so you shouldn't have a prob.

Perbaccooooooooo

Ditto Kal

That area is perfectly safe - through the Financial district. I'm surprised it's as long as 1 mile.

Stu Dudley

iamq - can't believe it's a year already! Congratulations! We're arriving SF on the 8th! Can't wait!

To StuDudley and the other SF gurus, we are coming to SF next week and had planned to do the Alcatraz night tour on Sat 9/5. When I went to the site and tried to buy tix yesterday it said it was sold out. Can this be?! Where else can I get tix for that night? Could our hotel concierge get them? Help. Our itinerary is packed and Sat night is the only night we can do Alcatraz. Thanks.

thank you very much Stu for all the work you did with this fantastic post!

Next Saturday is Labor Day weekend - one of the busiest of the year. Not surprised it's sold out. Don't know how to get tickets - it's a National Park, so I don't think there are any "ins" - but I've never tried.

Stu Dudley

Thanks cpg. It has been an interesting year to be a married gay couple in California. We'll be at Boulevard on the 6th. Not sure where we'll eat on the 5th. The plan is to wander around Embarcadero/Coit Tower and North Beach on the 5th and then do a little more wandering the next day in Noe Valley.

Anyone reading this have any experience with Pesce?

iamq - I love Boulevard too and am eating there on the 11th! I will be leaving w/ your recs for Palo Alto. If you guys like hot chocolate, don't miss Boulette's Larder in the Ferry Bldg. Have the best celebration!

cpg, BL is on the list!

Just had to come back here to shout THANK YOU again, Stu, for all this information! I sat on the 5 hour plane ride with your 22 pages of info, a SF map, and a highlighter and mapped everything out.

We enjoyed the Vallejo garage, Chinatown from Stockton, rich houses on Broadway, Crissy Field, Ft. Point, Robin Williams house, Alamo Square, and so much more because of the time and effort you took to share this with us.

Thank you!
Sharie

You're welcome. Glad my info was useful.

Stu Dudley

Stu, We have finally made it here and are enjoying Sonoma terrifically. I had printed off tons of your advise before I left, but somehow missed the message where you tell the best way to get to the airport (SFO) coming from the north. I know it is not the 101, can you please post the info again.
Thank you! We need to return our car before out stay in SF.

Hi snshine-
I live in Sonoma County and don't know why you wouldn't use Hwy 101 to get to SFO. We do all the time.
Sounds like you're just returning a car, so as long as you avoid
the rush hours and travel to return it between 10 AM and 2 PM
you will be fine. If you want specifics post back here.

R5

Here are two options:

Take 101 south over the GG bridge. Then:

Option 1. Take the first exit past the GG Bridge toll booth (actually, it's the second exit, but you are likely to not even notice the first exit). I believe it is marked 19th Ave/GG Park. Keep following the cars in front of you through Golden Gate Park & on to 19th ave, then onto Hwy 280. 10 miles or so later, take hwy 380 (airport signs are clearly marked) to 101, then to the SFO exit.

Option 2. Past the GG Bridge toll booth, take the Lombard Street exit. Head east on Lombard to Gough. Turn right on Gough. Keep heading south on Gough, and pretty soon Gough will be a fast one-way street. When you get to Hayes St, work your way right to the second most right lane, and turn right on Fell St (1st street past Hayes). Take the first left, which is Octavia. This is a very major street. Keep heading south on Octavia and soon you will cross Market St & find yourself on the freeway. Keep to the right, and merge onto 101 which will take you to SFO.

If you take 101 all the way to SFO from the GG Bridge, you will travel south on Van Ness, which is much slower than Gough and the freeway entrance will be more complicated.

Option 1 is easier
Option 2 is more "city" scenic (some nice Victorian houses along the way), but will involve more inner-city driving.

Stu Dudley

Thanks Stu, we'll do option 1. RD, we took the 101 from the airport, just remembered there being another option. We leave this morning and can't wait to explore the City! Celebrating our 35th.
Cheers

Yeah ! Stu saves the day, LOL!

Yes-Option 1 is the way.
Congrats on your 35th !

R5

"Dudley Stu-right" to the rescue!

very helpful. thank you so much for the hard work Stu.

was in SF 2 years ago, and loved the city tour of the victorian houses. (as well as other things). Was only sorry that we did not do more of the city tours with the Library.

Stu - you are quoted all over the place in Fodor's SF. Can't wait to try out your recommendations. It's been years since I've spent any time in SF and we live relatively close -- Southern California! We have a trip planned for mid April. Definitely looking forward to it! All your suggestions are wonderful!

Thanks, annetti, Diane, & naughty. (there is a City Guides tour called "Bawdy & Naughty".
http://www.sfcityguides.org/desc.html?tour=6

Stu Dudley

What a delight it was to find this posting! I'll definitely be pouring over your posts before my trip.


Are you familiar with any tours with photography specifically in mind? I've seen them offered in other cities but I generally find them too late to benefit. I'd like something other than the generic tour since photographers tend to think about lighting, angles and such.

Many, many thanks for your hard work!

>>Are you familiar with any tours with photography specifically in mind? <<

Nope - sorry

Stu Dudley

topping for anyone going to San Francisco - with flowers in your hair !!!

Stu Dudley

Found this treasure trove of SF suggestions. Thank you, Stu Dudley

WOW!! I just finished packing for our trip on Monday and I will now take out the heavy San Francisco guidebook from the suitcase. Thank you so much for all your info and advice- it is a bit overwhelming but I plan to sift through and highlite the places we think we'll have time for in the three days we have in SF. FYI-- I stopped printing at page 15- but I think we have enough. Thanks so much again for the time you took to compile so much helpful information.

Bookmarking... what a fabulous thread! Thank you

Great thread Stu!

My husband and I will be driving from Vancouver Canada to SF this summer. We would like to do a short term rental for 7-10 days but are confused about which neighbourhood. We would like to be close to public transit, easy freeway access for day trips, and, as we will a vehicle, parking is essential. We have been considering Sausalito, Mission, Noe Valley, Pacific Heights and ther is also an interesting property in Cow Hollow. Do you have any suggestions as to a preferred location?

If your planned day-trips are north across the Golden Gate Bridge, Cow Hollow or Pacific Heights would be great neighborhoods. Just don't get too far south in Pacific Heights. As I've stated many times, Noe Valley is my favorite neighborhood - but it's a little too far south for quick access to the GG bridge, but closer to Carmel, Half Moon Bay, the San Mateo Coast, and points south.

I would not stay in the Mission, unless you enjoy a little "scrufy/Bohemian" atmosphere. Sausalito won't give you the "city feel" that the other locations would.

If you are unsure about specific addresses, start another post and ask something like "what is the the Church St/28th street neighborhood like"

Stu Dudley

Ah, flowers in your hair. Saw your line Stu. In 1969 I was pregnant, young, poor, married to a Coastie, living in Alameda of all places, BUT whenever I could afford the .50 bridge toll came over (and actually PARKED right outside wherever I wanted to), and got my San Francisco fix.

Now, if ONLY, you could do for travelers to Scotland what you have for the lavender seekers in Provence, and the travelers to San Francisco!

Thank you, many times over, for being here!

>>if ONLY, you could do for travelers to Scotland <<

Been to Scotland several times - Castle hopping. I'm even 1/4 Scottish - Lindsay Clan (which is also my middle name). Pretty country.

Stu Dudley

Thanks, Stu DH first name is Scott--suspect it came from a 'last' name somewhere.

Late Spring, Summer and Fall travellers,
***Do Note***
A road closure happening now in the GGNRA will make this drive unavailable....

With a car...
...16. GGNRA north of GG bridge. This is probably the BEST view of SF. You can look through the bridge & then above the bridge to SF and all the way south down the San Mateo County Coast on a clear day. Do this late in the day. Take the first exit past the lookout (#15) off the GG Bridge going North (marked Alexander Ave). Turn left the first chance you have, & go under 101. Follow the sign back to SF, but just before getting on 101, make a right turn up the road & follow this road. It’s easier to find than this description might indicate (get a AAA map & take a road called Conzelman). Old WWII bunkers & gun turrets along the way. DON’T MISS.

This is a terrific idea, however Upper Conzelman Road is closed now thru the end of October.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/02/27/MNDI1C63EN.DTL

Perhaps Stu can grace us with his presence here and
write a detour edit for this section.

R5

No good detours - the best section is closed.

Stu Dudley

Stu: Thanks very much. I ran out of time, not ideas, thanks to your thread. Annetti

We are visiting SF in June, and I can't wait to read all of this info. Thanks!

I will have lots of reading to do. We have decided to take the kids (17B, 14G, 12G) to SF to see the west coast and are more slow travel than "see it all" people. Can't wait to read more of what you have put together. My son is an avid photographer and has a great eye. Sounds like he will have a lot to work with on this trip. My 14 year old enjoys the sites, but likes the shops too! and the 12 year NEVER runs out of energy. Can't wait for this trip. Thanks for the effort you put in here. Fodors is such a wonderful resource. - Laura

Mr. Dudley,

As a person who grew up in the Bay Area and someone who loves the City, thank you for such a wonderful detailed post. I am in a wheelchair so it would be interesting to learn what of your routes in the walking tours would be appropriate. I admit it made me a bit misty eyed reading about all that is familiar. Do you suppose a Muni carman would lift a manual chair onto a CC? I want to go have an irish at the Buena Vista. Cheers and thanks again Mr Bill

>>lift a manual chair onto a CC? I want to go have an irish at the Buena Vista. Cheers and thanks again Mr Bill<<

All of San Francisco is very wheelchair friendly - I don't think you would have a problem.

There are lots of hills on the walks. Perhaps some flatter routes would be:

-Palace Hotel - there are stairs but you could take an elevator
-Ferry Bldg - there is probably an elevator there also
Embarcadero
-Cow Hollow (Union St area) this route may be pretty flat if it stays north of Union St (I can't remember the specific route)
-Downtown Deco
-Embarcadero South
-Fisherman's Wharf
-Golden Gate park - 2 walks
-Gold Rush City
-Historic Market St
-Noe Valley - may be a few mild hills
-Rising steel
-South of Market Architecture
-Theater in SF

If you are serioiusly interested in any of these - e-mail me at StuDudley@aol.com & I'll contact the tour coordinator & verify that the specific walk is good for wheelchairs. We'll be out of town during most of September.

Stu Dudley

The cable cars are not wheelchair accessible--I believe they got an historic exemption from the ADA--but all other forms of public transportation are, including the F streetcar, which stops about 2 blocks from the Buena Vista.

Mr. Dudley

If you hang here long enuff you can just call him "Thee"

I could use some advice. We are traveling from PA to CA in late September, but our flight brings us in after 11 pm. What makes sense? To take a cab to our lodging (which we haven't decided on yet)? Is there safe public transportation from the airport at that time of night? We'll need to pick up a rental care either that night or the next day (I'm hoping we don't have to go back to the airport to get the car). We'll spend a night or two in SF then drive up the coast. We're not used to big cities so figuring this out is a little daunting. Thanks for advice.

I would highly recommend a taxi at that time of night, BART (the subway) would be okay and safe (i.e. if the hotel is very close to the BART station), but why stress, especially since you're not used to big cities, and therefore, probably not used to public transportation either. Just take a cab -- they line up at the taxi stand which is right outside the arrivals level (departures level is upstairs, where you disembark the plane, you go downstairs to claim your bags if you checked them, and to go out to the taxi stand). the taxi will be about $40.00.

Not only can you pick up your car in the morning, it's cheaper to rent a car in the city than at the airport. Depending on where you decide to stay...a lot of people have used Dollar Rent-a-Car on O'Farrell Street (Union Square area). Anyway, if you're staying in the city for a couple of days, it'll be better and cheaper to just rent the car when you're LEAVING the city. You don't want to have to park in the city. Public lots cost in the mid-$30s per day, and hotels charge up to $62.50 (the Hyatt Regency).

Many thanks. Stay tuned...I may have other questions!

urbanite1, for your other questions, it would be best to start a separate thread.

>>urbanite1, for your other questions, it would be best to start a separate thread.<<

Yep - I agree

Stu Dudley

Good Golly Miss Molly, I'm dizzy. I don't even think 4 days is going to be enough time. THANK YOU STU, for your time and knowledge. We are so excited!

Many thanks Stu! From next week my daughter will start to live in San Francisco on 15th st. in Castro.
She and her friends can use your post as their guide to their new city and I will most definitely follow it when I'm there to visit her. Lucky us! Thanks again.

wow....this thread is incredible. Going to San Francisco in 1 1/2 weeks...first time in California (from Chicago area). Thanks a million Stu...I have a lot of ideas now to think about. Probably going to look up lots of websites now...I am a planner and this trip has snuck up on me..so at least I know where to start. It already helped me to book a hotel (Union Square area). If anyone sees me...I'll be in the really good walking shoes....sounds like I will need them. Stu...sounds like you have a right to be proud of your city...it sounds fantastic.

Stu...sorry to double post. I have kind of a funny question...a little embarrassed to ask it. My cute grandkids had one request for me when I visit your city next week. They are huge fans of the old TV show Full House...and they want a picture of me in front of the family "home". I have been doing research and figured out that most of the show was filmed on a lot in the Warner Brother's Studio..but the opening credits are a row of Victorians called the Painted Ladies on Steiner St. I read what you wrote about the homes on Postcard Row...do you know if this particular house is differentiated at all?? Even though this is kind of a dumb question (with all that there is to do and see in San Francisco) but to 8 and 10 year olds this is important. I never knew Danny Tanner and Uncle Jesse lived in such an famed area of San Francisco...ha,ha. Thank you so much.

Can't wait to hear Stu's answer

We don't watch television much - other than sporting events (great Giants game yesterday) so I'm not personally familiar with "Full House".

However, my wife is a SF City Guides tour leader, and she is one of the several people who conduct the "Landmark Victorians of Alamo Square" tour. She has received many inquiries about the location of the various scenes in Full House, so she did some research several years ago and came up with this:

-The opening scenes were indeed of the painted ladies on Steiner across from Alamo Square Park - correctly called "Postcard Row". Painted lades is generally a term for any Victorian with 5 or more colors. There are also scenes of a picnic in Alamo Square Park. If you want to photograph these houses (most photographed spot on SF other than the Golden Gate Bridge), go to the corner of Hayes & Pierce and walk about 10 yards into Alamo Square Park, and then about 10 yards towards downtown.

- The exact house where the people lived is not near Alamo Square. It is 1709 Broderick - just north of Geary. The house faces east - so try to get there mid-morning for a picture.

- The red door of the house was sold to a neighbor.

http://gocalifornia.about.com/od/californiapictures1/ig/Victorian-Houses.-Npr/Full-House.htm

The Mrs Doubtfire house is at 2640 Steiner - on the corner of Steiner & Broadway in Pacific Heights.

Stu Dudley

Thank You so much Stu...both for the wonderful answer and for not thinking my question to be too silly. We will be in your city on Sat the 21st and are thinking about the City Guides tour of the Victorians of Alamo Square. I think we could manage an 1100 tour time. I have a feeling a picture of these homes and the park will satisfy the kids. I was thrilled to see your dear wife has had to do research on the Full House question showing I'm not the only one asking goofy questions about TV shows. The only debate I'm having (in my mind) right now is the Victorian Tour vs the Palace Hotel with special luncheon rate tour on that Saturday. We are only in town for 6 days. So much to do...my head is spinning trying to coordinate times. Right now the only for sure I have is an electric bike tour that goes over the Golden Gate Bridge. Obviously with my screen name...I'm a nurse but that doesn't mean I wish to do any tours of your local hospitals so I'm hoping that turns out OK. Again...your help and presence on this board are invaluable.

Wow, thanks for the wealth of information included in this thread! I'm heading to San Francisco for all of Labor Day weekend with my girlfriend, and we are trying to decide with City Guides walks to do. Some of the ones we are considering are North Beach, Coit Tower Murals, Victorian San Francisco, and the Telegraph Hill one. We'll probably be able to get in 1 or 2, but would be exploring these areas on our own if the times don't work out anyway. What I'm trying to decide is which tours would we be able to easily do on our own (with the help of Stairway Walks or other resources), and which ones would be more beneficial to take the actual tour instead.

Also, we are probably going to rent bikes to take across the bridge to Sausalito. I saw the recommendation to not do this in the morning, but I'm wondering, given the holiday weekend (and with the Sausalito Arts Festival), if it would be better to do it earlier in the day to avoid the ferry rush and crowds later in the day. Also, I know the fog can take a while to burn off in the AM, and that it usually returns in the afternoon anyway, so I'm just trying to figure out the best time to do it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

WOW. Thanks so much for all of the information in this thread. I anticpate a lovely weekend when I sit down and read it straight through, marking off ideas for my trip to SF this December!

Thee Stu has spoken !

R5

Boy Stu, you really know your SF stuff.Any recommendations on a nice B&B to stay in Healdsburg?

Nope - we have some very close friends who live there - so we always stay with them.

Stu Dudley

bookmarking

bookmarking

Stu thanks so much for all your valuable info. It's so helpful to have an idea before you get somewhere so you can start to make use of time that is always to short. San Francisco sounds like a great city and I can't wait to visit. For years my friends have been telling me I had to go that it is my kind of place!!!

Great info! Thanks! If you had three kids, 11, 8 and 6, how would you spend a day in San Francisco? Any ideas?

We have 0 kids - so I'm not the best source for that information.

Stu Dudley

Stu....you are, once again, a better man than me because my wise arse answer would have been "Go to Oakland"....

topping for bexrebex

This is fantastic information. Just what I was looking for, an insiders view! Thanks so much

RsGrady - take them to the Academy of Science in Golden Gate Park. Get there when they open and spend most of the day. You can read about it towards the end of my trip report (1st trip to Cal or something like that). click on my name.

So good. Bookmarking as we're planning an anniversary trip in the fall!

This hasn't been topped in several months - so here it is

and I thank you for doing so................I feel the need for a trip to the City SOON!

I must say listen to this man!!

Thank you so much for the tips for my trip to CA - I printed out what you suggested and it was a huge laugh when I read that you said we should be leaving San Francisco between 3:30 and 4:00 - it was 3:44!!

We saw what we wanted in the city - made it to Fort Bragg by 10:30 pm - and drove up the coast and then to Weaverville before 7 pm the next day!! tired yes but loved it all!! we are so glad we drove up the coast!!! thanks again - we did appreciate it!!

Top

TTT

Top

topping a classic thread full of great information

Thanks for the recommendations! Topping.

I'll top this again !!

Stu Dudley

R5

Wow what a link I am bookmarking for me!!

Still sad seeing old posts by Love Italy.


BTW...Martini House is now Goose and Gander. Still good grub.
The remodel has a lot of it's Pat Kuleto influence left over.

Hello Stu.

First, thank you for all your post & info.
I'm a 45 women traveling alone.
I'll be in SF for a week in mid-december.
I have a couple of question for you:
1-I plan ti stay at the Holliday Inn Civic Center but lot of people told me that it's a "weird" and dangerous area.

What do you think about.

2- I would like to take the a day tour and I'm hesitate through Yosemite or Muir woods. What do you suggest ?

3- What is the best place in SF for a Fish&chips ?

4- Any other suggest or advice are welcome.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Nic

>>1-I plan to stay at the Holliday Inn Civic Center but lot of people told me that it's a "weird" and dangerous area.

What do you think about.<<

I just posted something about that within the last 2 weeks - and I would never stay near Civic Center
http://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/need-to-pick-a-place-in-san-francisco.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/hotels-in-san-fran-380931-2.cfm

>>2- I would like to take the a day tour and I'm hesitate through Yosemite or Muir woods. What do you suggest ?<<

Big difference. Yosemite is fabulous - but way too far away for a day-trip where you can get something worthwhile from your visit. Muir Woods is a half-day trip and that is "fine" and easy.

>>3- What is the best place in SF for a Fish&chips ?<<

I have only had Fish & Chips at 1 San Francisco Restaurant (Waterbar) and I would not recommend it. I like Barbara's (or Betty's) Fish Trap and Sam's Chowder House (for lunch) in/near Half Moon Bay (South of SF).

>>4- Any other suggest or advice are welcome.<<

Most of what I know is in the above thread.

Stu Dudley

Bookmarking for Jan 2013 trip to Cali!!

Don't call it Cali while you're here. Not Frisco either.

Stu Dudley

I've got to agree with Stu about the Civic Center area. Just not a nice area to stay in.

NRRobinson: I personally would NEVER by choice stay near the Civic Center - especially as a single female. I have stayed there for work -- I was seriously against the idea but lost the decision to my boss. (That was the last time anyone from my division was 'forced' to stay there).

Forget about Yosemite - some do take a day tour there but it simply isn't practical. Muir Woods is very easy.

The Pier 23 Cafe does decent fish & chips -but they aren't the traditional British version if that is what you are looking for.

We stayed at The Whitcomb (Market at 8th/Hyde) a few mos ago and even that was a bit too close to the CC for our liking. Nice old hotel tho.

Keep forgetting about Pier 23. Love the rather eclectic crowds that gather there not to mention the grub and outdoor dining, weather permitting.

bm

This is fabulous... even after so many years of posting, this thread enlightens so many like me who are visiting San Francisco for the 1st time. I was lucky to have stumbled upon it. I would like to request Fodors to have a "Hall of Fame" for each topic and destination, which will give easy access to the fodorites; years after year. And Stu should get a "Life time Achievement Award" Infact, Fodorites should be able to nominate people for such awards every years. FODORS, are you reading this???
Thanks a Ton Stu...

I second that motion! Stu rocks!

Thanks !!!

Stu Dudley

We are going to San Francisco this week and I have been reading all of Stu's recommendations and bookmarking. We can't wait to get there.

>>We are going to San Francisco this week<<

Great weather in the forecast!!!

Stu Dudley

I have been watching the forecast and see we might have some days in the 60s-that would be great.