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GoTravel's Most Excellent Weekend In Charleston As A Tourist! (and I checked out a ton of hotels)

GoTravel's Most Excellent Weekend In Charleston As A Tourist! (and I checked out a ton of hotels)

Old Feb 15th, 2005, 04:22 AM
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GoTravel's Most Excellent Weekend In Charleston As A Tourist! (and I checked out a ton of hotels)

Let me preface this by saying that as long as I've lived so close to Charleston, an hour, I've never spent a weekend there and paid attention. I usually go in to town with my girlfriends for makeup at Saks, shoes at Bob Ellis, and fru fru dining at Penninsula Grill or SNOB. Once in a while, Mr. GoTravel and I will go into town together for a similar trip (bag Bob Ellis and Saks).

It is a rush in, check into the same hotels (Charleston Place, Doubletree, or Planters Inn), do the same exact thing, then go back home. This weekend was different.

I vowed to stop and smell the roses, pay attention to arguably the most beautiful city in the United States, and check out new hotels and a few new things. I visited quite a few hotels people ask about and will list them at the end of the post.

Mr. GoTravel and I were invited to spend a couples weekend in Charleston and agreed. Since he got out of the restaurant business, these things are now possible (past conversations usually go as follows, "What? Are you out of what passes for your mind? Leaving the restaurants during ________ holiday???").

Friday morning after packing the cooler (I like a glass of wine and he likes a bourbon drink while we are getting ready plus I like to take snacks) we hit the road and were downtown Charleston by noon. We checked into the:

Andrew Pinckney Inn
40 Pinckney Street
www.AndrewPinckneyInn.com

It was 1/2 block down Church Street from my usual Doubletree so the location was excellent. They served a rooftop heavy continental breakfast each morning. The rate was $139 per night for a King Suite while the Doubletree was charging $259 per night. This hotel isn't the Ritz but it was lovely, charming, excellent service, excellent amenities, and a very large room. This was just a standard room.

Met our friends and went to O'Reilly's Pub on King Street. This is usually a stop for Mr. GoTravel while I'm in Bob Ellis or one afterward.

From there we went to some stinky rank cigar bar with zero ventilation. I mean come on, if you are opening a cigar bar, you need a little ventilation. I've blocked the name from my mind and seriously considered throwing out my clothes.

From there, went with the group choice (my last time doing this) to T-Bonz for dinner. While I like T-Bonz, the food is great, decent prices, great location on the corner of Market Street and Church next to Kaminskys (great for desert), there are too many other fabulous places for the price to eat there.

Mr. GoTravel and I snuck off to the rooftop of The Market Pavillion Hotel. Wow! What a view! The pool is on the roof of this hotel and covered by plexiglass. It is on the fourth or fifth floor and you can see all over Charleston, the harbour, ocean, and the bridges. This is a must do. More on the hotel in a minute.

To be continued.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 04:41 AM
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We went back to the hotel and crashed.

The next morning we were up at 8am and suited up for my morning run. Mr. GoTravel decided to go with me to get in his cardio.

We ran down Market towards to cruise ship (NCL for anyone who is interested) and The US Customs House. This building is just a limestone monument to architects. It is beautiful. I don't know if they give tours or not but I'd like to check it out. We ran down in front of the harbour and Waterfront Park all the way down the Battery, past Battery Park, in front of the Ashley River almost to the US Coast Guard Station and ran back to Battery Park.

http://www.consultwebs.com/ncphotos/charleston_sc.htm

We decided to walk up Meeting Street and go get brunch. While walking up Meeting Street towards Market Street, we ran right into Kristen Davis from Sex and The City. She's from South Carolina so I don't know if she was working or just visiting with family. Mr. GoTravel, thinking he knew her personally, was "hey! How are you?", didn't realize who she was until I told him a little later. She was very gracious when he asked how her family was doing. Mr. GoTravel thought she was a former waitress of his.

We turned a left on Queen Street and ate at one of my all time favorites, Poogan's Porch. Poogan's Porch is an old house, 100 years maybe? That has been serving excellent meals since the 1970s. Eating here is a must.

http://www.poogansporch.com/

We had brunch and they are open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Soul food/Low Country/Southern Fare with a gourmet twist.

They brought out cathead biscuits and I swear I cried when I bit into it. You could taste the bacon grease. They were hot and fresh right out of the oven.

Mr. GoTravel had an omlet with monteray jack cheese, chedar cheese, and fried oysters served with red beans and rice. It was scrumptious.

I had an omlet with smoked gouda cheese and Virginia ham with the best grits I've ever eaten.

Total bill with tip including two coffes, tea, and a diet coke was $30. Gastronomic heaven. I wanted to stay there all day long and just eat.

To be continued.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 04:50 AM
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What excellent timing!
The Yankee and I are trying to make plans for an apres~Paris trip, keeping me from being depressed when I get home. Charleston and Miami are on the list. This is very helpful to our plans.
Awww, Mr GoT , gotta love him. My husband has done something similar in the past, smiled and chatted, thinking all the while it was an old client
Can't wait to hear more!
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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 04:59 AM
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After eating all this I decided to drag Mr. GoTravel around with me to check out hotels and I'll give a short synopsis of my usuals.

Charleston Place Hotel:

Ground zero for Charleston nestled between Market and King Streets on Meeting Street. Shops on bottom floor include Cache, Brookstone, Black House White Market and others. Excellent 4 diamond hotel owned by Orient Express. Rooms range from very nice standard rooms to huge suites. I haven't stayed in a suite since this hotel was an Omni but I love it none the less. Luxury, expensive.

http://www.charlestonplace.com/

The Planters Inn:

This Relais & Chateaux beauty (www.RelaisChateaux.com) is just across Meeting Street from Charleston Place and the Shops at Charleston Place. Beautiful rooms and it houses my favorite upscale restaurant, Penninsula Grill. Stop in and have a drink and check out the common areas. While the rooms are massive, they make up for this in sheer luxury. Luxury, expensive.

http://www.plantersinn.com/

Doubletree Hotel:

This is my standard. Great location at the corner of Church and Meeting Streets. Chain hotel with a hint of upscale. Very nice common areas and we've been staying here since it was the Hawthorn Suites. All suite hotel and some are two story. All have kitchenettes. Midscale to upper, moderately expensive to affordable.

http://www.doubletree.com/en/dt/hote...tyhocn=CHSCSDT

Now for the hotels I checked out that people ask about most frequently. Keep in mind, I didn't stay at these but checked out location and common areas which to me are usually a good sign of what is to come.

Market Pavillion Hotel:

Wow. I mean, Wow! You walk into soaring two story lobby which houses a gorgeous bar, restaurant, and impressive seating areas. Marble floors with soaring two story cherry wood paneled walls. Take the elevator up to the Rooftop Terrace for stunning views of Charleston and have a drink. Word is that an eccentric gazillionaire from Charleston with no hotel experience built this hotel. They had a few kinks but seemed to have worked them out. Pretty good for someone with no hotel experience. Luxury, Very Expensive.

http://www.marketpavilion.com/



 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:17 AM
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The Mills House:

I have stayed here in the past but it has been a while. Gorgeous old hotel that is managed by the nice people at Holiday Inn but in no way resembles a Holiday Inn. Excellent location on the corner of Meeting Street and Queen Street. Rooms are nicely appointed and this hotel has a pool. A rarity in Charleston. Midscale to upper, moderately expensive to affordable.

http://www.millshouse.com/

Forgot to add that The Market Pavillion Hotel is right on the corner of East Bay and Market Street. Member of The Leading Hotels of the World (www.LHW.com)

Church Street Inn:

The name of this hotel is kind of misleading because most of the hotel actually faces Market Street. Nice common areas, great location. Has a nice outdoor courtyard. Mid to upscale, moderately expensive.

www.ChurchStreetInn.com

French Quarter Inn:

A little more upscale than its neighbor the Church Street Inn and not quite the same caliber as The Market Pavillion, the French Quarter Inn is a very very nice upscale property. While the address is Church Street and the hotel faces Market Street, the main entrance is on Queen Street which can be confusing. There are shops at The French Quarte Inn accessable by Market Street and Church Street. Upscale/luxury, expensive.

www.FQICharleston.com

Harbourview Inn:

Stay here. Let me say that again. Stay here. The lobby is on the second floor and while small, all marble, fireplace, and hold on to your hats, a view of Charleston Harbour that will take your breath away. Mr. GoTravel and I just stood there in silence taking in the view. It is across from Waterfront Park on the corner of Concord Street and Vendue Range. A bit of a walk to shopping on King Street but worth it. Upscale, expensive.

www.HarbourviewCharleston.com
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:22 AM
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Great reviews! Perhaps you should write a guidebook...
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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:25 AM
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Thanks GT for posting! My husband and I are thinking about taking a visiting friend to Charleston and current info is always helpful!!
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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:28 AM
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At this point, Mr. GoTravel is ready to snap like a twig so we go back to the hotel to shower, change, and head back out.

Before we head back to the hotel, we stop for a moment and walk down to Waterfront Park and walk out on the pier.

http://www.tbrpc.org/waterfront/charles.htm

I'm guessing the pier juts out into Charleston Harbour a good 100 yards. Perfect views of Patriots Point, Fort Sumter, the bridges, the Harbor, boats, tankers, and the USS Yorktown. You can take tours of the Yorktown.

http://www.state.sc.us/patpt/

While sitting on the end of the pier on this beautiful afternoon, the most perfect thing happened: a single dolfin swam by us, swam in circles for a few minutes, then swam off. Now I've seen dolfin in the wild but not like this. Amazing.

After a while, we head back to the hotel.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:35 AM
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Scarlett....do both! (And I might have some western additions for your list if you really get adventurous... )

GoTravel--thanks, fun report. We used to see Charleston the way you did when we lived in Savannah. We both did our clothing shopping in Charleston and would either go just for the day, or check into Charleston Place and make a fun weekend of it. DH headed to AJ Davis where service is such they even knew him by name between visits, and I'd head up the street to Bob Ellis then across the street to ???--have forgotten the name of "My Shop". I love the antique shops along King Street too--could easily spend an afternoon just doing that.

Despite living in Savannah, Charleston was my favorite of the two cities...more to see, more to do, and better dining options, to say nothing of the shopping. We did get into a rut though with dining if we were just there for the day...always lunch at Magnolia's with the best creme brulet we've had outside of New Orleans.

Kristen Davis was probably tickled by your DH. I did the same thing to (well I only said, "Hi" and smiled) Morgan Freeman when I passed him in DH's Savannah hotel. You look up, there's the familiar face right in front of you, and you react to it before realizing who the face actually belongs to.

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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:45 AM
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We shower, change, and are off! Old habits die hard and I want to go shoe shopping. Of course this goes over like a lead balloon so I make a deal with him, 3 shoe stores, then we go watch any ACC basketball he wants to watch without complaining. Cool deal on both sides.

First stop, Bob Ellis Shoes. Now this is a right of passage with any South Carolina girl. Unfortunately, two very bad things happened as soon as we walked in the door. One, Mr.GoTravel picked up the first pair of shoes he liked and said, "hey, these are nice", then he turned them over and looked at the price. They were tricked out Jimmy Choos that were $850. After the salesman and I picked Mr. GoTravel up off the floor, he turned around and knocked over the Manolo Blahnik display. Second bad thing was that it was so packed, you couldn't move. Piece of advice, don't wear good shoes or carry a good handbag in Bob Ellis or they will hound you.

www.BobEllis.com

Second Stop, The Copper Penny. Unfortunately, it was so hot in there it made for a short trip. This is my second favorite shoe store in Charleston.

Third stop, Ragoni. No luck there either. I can usually find something in one of the three but Ragoni was also too crowded.

I can't find shoes and this is supposed to be my Valentines Day Present.

I go into Saks while he is taking a phone call and he meets me inside. No luck in their shoe department but there is a DJ spinning tunes in the jeans department. Found a great pair of Seven Jeans and since Mr.GoTravel had already busted that vein in Bob Ellis, he didn't even flinch about the jeans. I love them.

From there we go to King Street Grille to watch basketball. Great two story old building that has gorgeous interiors with flat screen TVs. Mr. GoTravel had the Red Pepper Hummus and we drank Yuengling beer while watching basketball. Had a great time.

http://www.thegsoonline.com/news/200...r-519479.shtml

Met up with friends who at this point are all shopping in Bebe. Please try and imagine 6 girls going through sales racks and six guys in hell.

From there we go back to King Street Grille.

After more Juengling back to the hotel but first a stop in the bar at Penninsula Grill at The Planters Inn. Wonderful soothing quiet and tranquil. A must if you want a break from the hustle and bustle of The Market.

The Charleston City Market is a great place to buy pecans, jewelry, sweetgrass baskets, t-shirts, paintings tchochkes, etc. Whatever you do, please don't pick up a Sweetgrass Basket and loudly exclaim, "a hundred dollars for a straw basket???". These are works of art and the art of making these baskets has been handed down for hundreds of years. They are on display in museums around the world. On average, each one takes about a week to make.

http://www.charlestonlowcountry.com/...ityMarket.html

From there, back to the hotel to change for dinner. We wore dressy jeans and nice tops everywhere. As long as you aren't sloppy, there really aren't dress codes in Charleston.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 05:55 AM
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Off to Market Pavillion Rooftop Terrace for appetizers and pre dinner drinks.

Let me preface this evening by saying that I don't like to eat out Valentine's Day or the Saturday night around Valentine's Day. Everything is packed, service is usually lousy, and a lot of places have a special menu.

Market Pavillion was excellent. Mr. GoTravel got the Ahi Tuna and I had Satay Shrimp. Huge shrimp, Mr.GoTravel said they were the 10-15 count variety.

From there we all walked down to Wet Willies for a frozen drink. Our group wanted to eat at the Japanese Steakhouse next door (90 minute wait) and we were like no way, no how. We all had a frozen drink and when their table was ready, we bolted to eat elsewhere.

They ended up having terrible service and each couple dropped over $150 with dinner, drinks and tip.

Mr. GoTravel and I caught a Rickshaw ( http://www.ibike.org/economics/pedicab.htm ) to Andolinis Pizza on Wentworth. This is a College of Charleston hangout and was pretty empty. We had a large pepperoni pizza and a pitcher of Jeungling for $19. Excellent pizza and we were back at the hotel by 10PM and asleep by 10:10PM.

More later.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 06:03 AM
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Keep on GoTravel....you are too funny! I can just see Mr GoTravel now having his coronary! Can't help it, I'm still laughing.
Hot damn, I hope his team won the basketball game!
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 06:08 AM
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"I make a deal with him, 3 shoe stores, then we go watch any ACC basketball he wants to watch without complaining. Cool deal on both sides"
GoTravel, you are no doubt a Brilliant Shopping Strategist ! LOL
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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 06:11 AM
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He's a pretty funny guy and makes me laugh!

I'm off to the gym but I still have five or six hotel reviews, a couple of restaurant reviews, South Carolina Aquarium review (who knew it was a state park???), and some general observations and tips.

I can say that I've never enjoyed Charleston as much as I did this weekend and Mr. GoTravel has repeatedly agreed with my sentiments.

Stay tuned kids, more fun and action to come.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 07:14 AM
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Well gosh, GoTravel...now I want to go to Charleston.
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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 07:54 AM
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The next morning I was up by 7AM and since I know I wore Mr. GoTravel out, I let him sleep. Took a long leisurely bath and got ready. Went up to the rooftop terrace for continental breakfast (buscuits and gravy) then went back to the room and checked on Mr.GoTravel (full body orchestra, moan, groan, snore), told him I was off and I'd meet him at 10:30AM.

Walked through the sidestreet to my first hotel.

The Jasmine House:

An 1843 Greek Revival masterpiece. It is 1/2 block off Meeting Street and is an upscale B&B. Not sure of the prices and didn't get to go inside but the outside, gardens, and house are gorgeous.

www.aesir.com/jasminehous

The Indigo Inn:

These people also own/manage/run The Jasmine House. The Indigo Inn is on Meeting Street across the street from Hyman's a couple of blocks down from the Market. On a busy street but the main entrance is in the back. The center of the Inn is hollow and houses a beautiful and tranquil garden and courtyard. Moderate Inn with moderate prices.

www.IndigoInn.com

Wentworth Mansion:

Probably the nicest place to stay in Charleston. This is truly a mansion and it is unreal. Built sometime in the 1880s, it looms up out of nowhere and WHAM! All of a sudden you see this gorgeous redbrick Victorian. Surrounded by a 10 foot black wrought iron gate, you climb impressive sweeping granite staircase to the massive front doors. The lobby is so full of intricate tile and woodwork I can't even try and explain it. This mansion is a work of art. Go up to the fourth floor and walk out onto the cupola for unmatched views of ALL of Charleston. They will let you see the rooms if you ask if they are vacant. Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (www.SLH.com). Very expensive, luxury.

www.WentworthMansion.com

Renaissance Hotel:

Flew by here but I thought I'd comment on the hotel. On Wentworth midway between King Street and Meeting Street. Good location, didn't go inside.

Best Western King Charles:

Went inside briefly. This isn't your average Best Western. Very nice, midscale hotel. On Meeting Street, it used to be an old inn. Moderate, moderate prices.

www.KingCharlesInn.com
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 07:55 AM
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GoTravel, you are mesmerizing me here. I love Charleston, and I love your report......... I am printing it out for next time I go, no kidding. Our next hotel splurge will be one of these.......... we've already done Charleston Place so will have to do another one.

OO, love your tip on the Creme Brulee at Magnolia, which is my fave restaurant in Charleston. But never had that there. (My DH makes them, and is sure they won't be as good as his! ) Next time....

Looking forward to more, GT.......
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 08:00 AM
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Went back to the hotel to meet Mr.GoTravel. Caught up with friends at Sweetwater Cafe across the street from The Charleston Place. We didn't eat but their breakfast looked good. Nothing exciting.

We left them, walked down Meeting Street to one of my favorite restaurants in Charleston, Jestine's Kitchen on the corner of Wentworth and Meeting Streets. Don't let the line around the block fool you, Jestine's is good old southern cooking with that soul food low country flair. I had Fried Catfish, okra gumbo, and black eyed peas and Mr. GoTravel had Pot Roast, Collards, and black eyed peas. Had cornbread and Coca-Cola Cake for desert.

http://www.hollyeats.com/JestinesKitchen.htm

By this time, we've eaten so much we decide to walk to The South Carolina Aquarium.

www.scaquarium.org

This is such a treat! We were blown away when we found out this was a State Park! Holy cow!

More on this later with my general observations.
 
Old Feb 15th, 2005, 09:29 AM
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As a native Charlestonian, now living in Maine, I was really excited by your enthusiasm for what really is a magical city! I felt myself totally revisiting the wonderful places you listed! I have a little inside scoop for you.

First, haven't you fallen in love with Pete Banis Shoes yet? One block down from Bob Ellis, as cool (if not a hipper) collection, and prices that make you smile instead of cringe! The locals will tell you that Pete Banis is shoe utopia. They are family run and in business for over 40 years.

Also, my family owns the Market Pavilion Hotel (which is FABULOUS!). They are not totally rookies. The have owned two other hotels in the city, and a couple of other restaurants in SC, but the Pavilion has been their jewel. The best part is that they are self-made and it is a complete family run business. The parents own, the son and daughter are in charge of management and marketing and a cousin is the head chef.
The very best part of Charleston, is that it is so amazingly cosmopolitan, and hip, but still very small-townish and charming. I thought that knowing the stories on these two establishments might reiterate the familiarity of Charleston. You'll find this connectedness all throughout the city. It adds life and warmth to the place.

Thanks for the fond memories!
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Old Feb 15th, 2005, 09:56 AM
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GoTravel,
I must say that your post (which is just fabulous!) has really inspired me to want to go to Charleston. My boyfriend and I were considering going to Myrtle Beach after a few days in Hilton Head, but after reading your post I'm seriously considering going to Charleston instead. 2 years ago we spent an afternoon in Charleston and it was magnificent. I've always wanted to go back ever since and spend much more time.

After reading your post, I started looking for hotels but I'm afraid that many are just too expensive for my budget At least the ones that are located downtown or in the historic district. I'll have to keep looking though because I really really want to go now!
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