Grand canyon /Sedona backpacking solo - trip report
Nov 14th, 2005, 02:56 PM
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Grand canyon /Sedona backpacking solo - trip report
I appreciate the help and advice I got from folks on this forum. Here's hoping my trip report will help someone else or atleast entertain a few others. I will be posting it in parts, but here's the first couple of days.
Nov 14th, 2005, 02:56 PM
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Saturday, Oct 29th
The Flight:
Flew Southwest from Chicago Midway to Phoenix. The flight arrived a half hour early, but luggage arrived 1 hour late, so net, we were about a half hour late. Sigh, well, that is par for the course I suppose.
The Drive:
Rented a Ford Focus from Fox Car Rental, whose rates were unbeatable ($80 less than the nearest competition for a 1 week rental) and was on my way to the Grand Canyon at 11:30 am. The landscape around Phoenix is rather other worldly. Flat topped hills where I'm used to seeing triangular peaks, crumbly volcanic rock that looks like giant pieces of charcoal like nothing I've seen before, cacti where I am used to seeing trees, scrub bushes where I'm used to seeing grass and a vividly blue almost indigo sky. If I hadn't been there, it could have passed for an alien planet in a science fiction movie. I remember drawing the typical scenery with triangular hills and bushy trees as a child and wonder what the kids in Phoenix draw! Mesas with cacti? Quite fantastic all in all.
Stopped in Flagstaff to buy my walking staff which was masquerading as a 94 cent broom stick and some canister fuel for my stove. Ok, it really was a broomstick that I disguised as a walking staff, but I was not paying $50+ for the real deal. Yes, I am very pleased with myself for being a cheapskate. The landscape around Flagstaff is high mountains that look ideal for skiing come winter. Much more typical of what I'm used to, but a stark contrast to the Phoenix area just a couple of hours away.
Drove into the national park and there of course is yet another landscape with deep gorges, canyons, faults and ravines.
Arizona is indeed a many splendid thing. It left my mouth hanging open for most of my trip.
The Evening:
Drove straight to the back country office to talk to the rangers at around 4 pm. It was good to hear that all was normal with the trails and that no rain was expected for the next few days. Checked into the Yavapai Lodge, bought the matchbook that I'd forgotten to buy in Flagstaff and then, finally, finally, walked over to the rim to look into the canyon. I was there. I was actually there. I'd forgotten just how magnificently beautiful the canyon is. It is exhilarating and humbling all at once. Sat on an overhang with my feet dangling into the canyon and watched the play of the setting sunlight on the different peaks and buttes. Highlighting this peak now and leaving its neighbours in shadow, moving on to that fault to emphasize its depth, shifting and waning till all you can see are majestic silhouettes. The Grand Canyon at sunset is impossible to exaggerate.
The Flight:
Flew Southwest from Chicago Midway to Phoenix. The flight arrived a half hour early, but luggage arrived 1 hour late, so net, we were about a half hour late. Sigh, well, that is par for the course I suppose.
The Drive:
Rented a Ford Focus from Fox Car Rental, whose rates were unbeatable ($80 less than the nearest competition for a 1 week rental) and was on my way to the Grand Canyon at 11:30 am. The landscape around Phoenix is rather other worldly. Flat topped hills where I'm used to seeing triangular peaks, crumbly volcanic rock that looks like giant pieces of charcoal like nothing I've seen before, cacti where I am used to seeing trees, scrub bushes where I'm used to seeing grass and a vividly blue almost indigo sky. If I hadn't been there, it could have passed for an alien planet in a science fiction movie. I remember drawing the typical scenery with triangular hills and bushy trees as a child and wonder what the kids in Phoenix draw! Mesas with cacti? Quite fantastic all in all.
Stopped in Flagstaff to buy my walking staff which was masquerading as a 94 cent broom stick and some canister fuel for my stove. Ok, it really was a broomstick that I disguised as a walking staff, but I was not paying $50+ for the real deal. Yes, I am very pleased with myself for being a cheapskate. The landscape around Flagstaff is high mountains that look ideal for skiing come winter. Much more typical of what I'm used to, but a stark contrast to the Phoenix area just a couple of hours away.
Drove into the national park and there of course is yet another landscape with deep gorges, canyons, faults and ravines.
Arizona is indeed a many splendid thing. It left my mouth hanging open for most of my trip.
The Evening:
Drove straight to the back country office to talk to the rangers at around 4 pm. It was good to hear that all was normal with the trails and that no rain was expected for the next few days. Checked into the Yavapai Lodge, bought the matchbook that I'd forgotten to buy in Flagstaff and then, finally, finally, walked over to the rim to look into the canyon. I was there. I was actually there. I'd forgotten just how magnificently beautiful the canyon is. It is exhilarating and humbling all at once. Sat on an overhang with my feet dangling into the canyon and watched the play of the setting sunlight on the different peaks and buttes. Highlighting this peak now and leaving its neighbours in shadow, moving on to that fault to emphasize its depth, shifting and waning till all you can see are majestic silhouettes. The Grand Canyon at sunset is impossible to exaggerate.
Nov 14th, 2005, 02:56 PM
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Sunday, Oct 30th
Drove to the back country office at 5:45am to catch the 1st hikers’ shuttle to the South Kaibab trail. There must have been about 10 other people on that ride, but I was the only backpacker. We started the hike at about 6:45am and everyone else soon overtook me. I went on down my merry way watching the sun come up. A reverse of last night's show but in a very different light. The hike down was steep, rocky in places and gorgeous. It was fun measuring my progress by the colour of the rock I was hiking by, from yellow limestone to red shale and sandstone to grey and pink granite and finally to black schist by the river. The striations on the canyon walls are very pretty. In places the trail has wooden cross bars about 3 or 4 feet apart, presumably to keep the trail from eroding. Except that doesn't seem to work because there were troughs between each of them and the hike turned into stepping from one hole into another. With a 30 pound pack on my back and legs too short to step from bar to the next, it was very hard. Thank God for my broom stick staff. I made my way down stopping at some amazing lookout points and taking a few breaks in about 4 hours. The South Kaibab trail follows a natural ridge down into the canyon and has incredible views all the way down. I did see some wildlife in the shape of an elk, one big horned sheep and a condor. My legs felt fine (little did they know what they had in store for them that night) except for my toes. The sharp grade and repeated impact had given my toes an unexpected workout.
Set up camp in a sparsely occupied campground, sought out the phantom ranch and made reservations fro a stew dinner that night. I then made my way to the silver bridge around noon. On the way there I met a very friendly park services employee, Kevin, who takes care of some of the pump stations in the canyon. Had a very interesting conversation about water pressures and getting to pipe leak repair sites by helicopter. Good stuff. Anyway, just before I got to the bridge, the lure of the river got to me and I scrambled over some rock to soak my feet in the Colorado. Black, red, pink, green, white, yellow and brown rocks all tumbled together on the banks. I'm not talking about pebbles or stones, here. These are rocks tending towards boulders. Quite amazing to see all these rocks, that must have fallen off the walls at some point, all together. So after a good soak, I walked across the silver bridge. The bridge has a steel grate floor, so you can see the river beneath your feet. Definitely not for acrophobes. I loved this bridge much more than the black bridge because of its grate floor and also because the side rails are shorter than the ones in the black bridge, so I could get a better view. Where else can you stand stationary in the middle of a raging Colorado River? (Ok, ok, I know that there are probably some small islands or rocks somewhere, but flow with my romantic fantasy here, will you?) Crossed to the river trail, which connects the silver bridge and the black bridge on the south side of the river. It's a beautiful 2 mile trail that, as its name suggests, skirts the river. There were mini canyons to my right and birds eye views of the Colorado River, foot traffic across the bridges and the boat beach to my left. Scrambled up rocks in some of the canyons, sat and gazed at the river, people watched and took an hour to walk the easy 2 mile stretch. Crossed the black bridge, and went down to the boat beach.
There were people waiting to depart on a kayak trip and there were people waiting for friends to get off a kayak trip. Very friendly folk. When you are at the bottom of the canyon (and you aren't a day hiker with one eye on the clock, cause you need to go up before dark), time slows down. People take the time to talk, to share all kinds of information, to be friendly and to make friends. There were conversations with volunteers who were helping to restore the native plant life. There were conversations with veteran kayakers. There were conversations in broken Italian (mine) and broken English (theirs) with an Italian couple. There were conversations about the best hikes, the most scenic hikes and the best vantage points for sunset. And when I had enough conversation, I made my way to the little cove beside the main beach which was deserted. I had seen it from the river trail and thought to myself that it looked like an idyllic spot. It was. And so sitting in my private little cove, with the sun on my shoulders and a lovely breeze from the river, I watched the setting sun put on its show again. Same show, different seats.
The temperature dropped quickly once the sun set and darkness comes quickly to the valley, there's not much of a twilight period. Went back to the campsite which was now full and got ready for dinner at the ranch at 6:30. Oh yes, Bright Angel Campground, CBG, is very civilized as back country camp grounds go. Flush toilets! Mirrors above the sinks! Treated drinking water! This is basically the lap of luxury. After about an hour of quiet reading ("A Good Year" -Peter Mayle) by flash light, I made my way over to the ranch for a delicious and sumptuous meal. Salad, stew, fresh corn bread and chocolate cake fresh out of the oven - this is camping? much less, back country camping ??? Loud conversations, lots of fun and a good meal later, I was ready for bed by 8:30 pm.
It was while turning in my sleep that night, when I realized my calf muscles had tightened up and I got a taste of the pain that would stay for the next 2 days.
Drove to the back country office at 5:45am to catch the 1st hikers’ shuttle to the South Kaibab trail. There must have been about 10 other people on that ride, but I was the only backpacker. We started the hike at about 6:45am and everyone else soon overtook me. I went on down my merry way watching the sun come up. A reverse of last night's show but in a very different light. The hike down was steep, rocky in places and gorgeous. It was fun measuring my progress by the colour of the rock I was hiking by, from yellow limestone to red shale and sandstone to grey and pink granite and finally to black schist by the river. The striations on the canyon walls are very pretty. In places the trail has wooden cross bars about 3 or 4 feet apart, presumably to keep the trail from eroding. Except that doesn't seem to work because there were troughs between each of them and the hike turned into stepping from one hole into another. With a 30 pound pack on my back and legs too short to step from bar to the next, it was very hard. Thank God for my broom stick staff. I made my way down stopping at some amazing lookout points and taking a few breaks in about 4 hours. The South Kaibab trail follows a natural ridge down into the canyon and has incredible views all the way down. I did see some wildlife in the shape of an elk, one big horned sheep and a condor. My legs felt fine (little did they know what they had in store for them that night) except for my toes. The sharp grade and repeated impact had given my toes an unexpected workout.
Set up camp in a sparsely occupied campground, sought out the phantom ranch and made reservations fro a stew dinner that night. I then made my way to the silver bridge around noon. On the way there I met a very friendly park services employee, Kevin, who takes care of some of the pump stations in the canyon. Had a very interesting conversation about water pressures and getting to pipe leak repair sites by helicopter. Good stuff. Anyway, just before I got to the bridge, the lure of the river got to me and I scrambled over some rock to soak my feet in the Colorado. Black, red, pink, green, white, yellow and brown rocks all tumbled together on the banks. I'm not talking about pebbles or stones, here. These are rocks tending towards boulders. Quite amazing to see all these rocks, that must have fallen off the walls at some point, all together. So after a good soak, I walked across the silver bridge. The bridge has a steel grate floor, so you can see the river beneath your feet. Definitely not for acrophobes. I loved this bridge much more than the black bridge because of its grate floor and also because the side rails are shorter than the ones in the black bridge, so I could get a better view. Where else can you stand stationary in the middle of a raging Colorado River? (Ok, ok, I know that there are probably some small islands or rocks somewhere, but flow with my romantic fantasy here, will you?) Crossed to the river trail, which connects the silver bridge and the black bridge on the south side of the river. It's a beautiful 2 mile trail that, as its name suggests, skirts the river. There were mini canyons to my right and birds eye views of the Colorado River, foot traffic across the bridges and the boat beach to my left. Scrambled up rocks in some of the canyons, sat and gazed at the river, people watched and took an hour to walk the easy 2 mile stretch. Crossed the black bridge, and went down to the boat beach.
There were people waiting to depart on a kayak trip and there were people waiting for friends to get off a kayak trip. Very friendly folk. When you are at the bottom of the canyon (and you aren't a day hiker with one eye on the clock, cause you need to go up before dark), time slows down. People take the time to talk, to share all kinds of information, to be friendly and to make friends. There were conversations with volunteers who were helping to restore the native plant life. There were conversations with veteran kayakers. There were conversations in broken Italian (mine) and broken English (theirs) with an Italian couple. There were conversations about the best hikes, the most scenic hikes and the best vantage points for sunset. And when I had enough conversation, I made my way to the little cove beside the main beach which was deserted. I had seen it from the river trail and thought to myself that it looked like an idyllic spot. It was. And so sitting in my private little cove, with the sun on my shoulders and a lovely breeze from the river, I watched the setting sun put on its show again. Same show, different seats.
The temperature dropped quickly once the sun set and darkness comes quickly to the valley, there's not much of a twilight period. Went back to the campsite which was now full and got ready for dinner at the ranch at 6:30. Oh yes, Bright Angel Campground, CBG, is very civilized as back country camp grounds go. Flush toilets! Mirrors above the sinks! Treated drinking water! This is basically the lap of luxury. After about an hour of quiet reading ("A Good Year" -Peter Mayle) by flash light, I made my way over to the ranch for a delicious and sumptuous meal. Salad, stew, fresh corn bread and chocolate cake fresh out of the oven - this is camping? much less, back country camping ??? Loud conversations, lots of fun and a good meal later, I was ready for bed by 8:30 pm.
It was while turning in my sleep that night, when I realized my calf muscles had tightened up and I got a taste of the pain that would stay for the next 2 days.
Nov 14th, 2005, 03:47 PM
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Thanks Mike. It was a great trip.
Monday Oct 31st
The North Kaibab Hike
Woke up at 6am. Ouch, ouch, ouch! My legs were killing me. Ten minutes of gingerly stretching later, I could hobble my way to the toilets. Got dressed, stretched some more and started my hike to Ribbon Falls at 6:45am. The hike is north along the bright angel creek. The trail is fairly level with only a barely noticeable upward grade. ‘The Box’, where the canyon walls are much closer together than in other areas is beautiful. It was cool with a refreshingly chilly breeze (it’s supposed to be oppressively hot in summer, though) and the lovely sound of the gurgling creek. After crisscrossing Bright Angel Creek by bridge four or five times, the trail comes to a point where one can ford the creek to get to ribbon falls or walk a quarter of a mile further to a bridge. I had been hiking for only two and a half hours and the creek didn’t look easily fordable. Besides it was still chilly and I didn’t cherish the idea of getting wet. Also, how bad can a quarter of a mile be? Answer: Pretty bad. The last quarter of a mile was up and down a hill. The uphill was not the hard part. The down hill with my stiff achy calves was rough. I had always thought that down hill miles should be free miles because gravity does most of the work. I learnt that I was very, very wrong. Made my way across the bridge and to the base of the falls.
Ribbon Falls
Oh joy! It was truly worth the hike and the grueling quarter mile as well. The first glimpse of the falls from the trail is only that of a small section of the falls and looks very disappointing. When I reached it and my first impression was revised I was thrilled. The water falls from a narrow depression on top of the rock wall on to a large phallic rock covered in moss. The falls and the rock are particularly beautiful because the green moss is in sharp contrast with the surrounding red rock. There is a path that goes behind the water falls to this shallow cave/depression in the wall that’s below the top of the falls but above the mossy rock. On top of the moss rock are these rock formations that look like shrines with water pouring on them and pooling at their feet before running off (you have to have visited a Hindu temple to understand the symbology here). Very, very pretty. I had the falls all to myself till about 1 pm. I climbed everywhere that looked climbable, had lunch and took a nap in the sun, by a little stream. Idyllic.
The Way Back
I headed back to camp, at 1pm. I braved the creek and forded it this time. It was much easier than it looked. Besides, the day was nice and warm now, so getting wet wouldn’t have been very uncomfortable. The way back was faster but more painful since it was a slight down hill. I took a brief detour into Phantom Canyon, but didn’t explore very far. Got back to the campsite at around 3:30pm.
There were some ‘reverse trick or treaters’ distributing candy. I was very impressed that they had the motivation to add the weight of a candy bag to their backpacks on the way down. Some people had even brought some simple costumes for Halloween. You couldn’t have paid me to add the weight of a cape and face paint to my pack!
Dinner that night was Top Ramen noodles. Read some and went to bed early.
Monday Oct 31st
The North Kaibab Hike
Woke up at 6am. Ouch, ouch, ouch! My legs were killing me. Ten minutes of gingerly stretching later, I could hobble my way to the toilets. Got dressed, stretched some more and started my hike to Ribbon Falls at 6:45am. The hike is north along the bright angel creek. The trail is fairly level with only a barely noticeable upward grade. ‘The Box’, where the canyon walls are much closer together than in other areas is beautiful. It was cool with a refreshingly chilly breeze (it’s supposed to be oppressively hot in summer, though) and the lovely sound of the gurgling creek. After crisscrossing Bright Angel Creek by bridge four or five times, the trail comes to a point where one can ford the creek to get to ribbon falls or walk a quarter of a mile further to a bridge. I had been hiking for only two and a half hours and the creek didn’t look easily fordable. Besides it was still chilly and I didn’t cherish the idea of getting wet. Also, how bad can a quarter of a mile be? Answer: Pretty bad. The last quarter of a mile was up and down a hill. The uphill was not the hard part. The down hill with my stiff achy calves was rough. I had always thought that down hill miles should be free miles because gravity does most of the work. I learnt that I was very, very wrong. Made my way across the bridge and to the base of the falls.
Ribbon Falls
Oh joy! It was truly worth the hike and the grueling quarter mile as well. The first glimpse of the falls from the trail is only that of a small section of the falls and looks very disappointing. When I reached it and my first impression was revised I was thrilled. The water falls from a narrow depression on top of the rock wall on to a large phallic rock covered in moss. The falls and the rock are particularly beautiful because the green moss is in sharp contrast with the surrounding red rock. There is a path that goes behind the water falls to this shallow cave/depression in the wall that’s below the top of the falls but above the mossy rock. On top of the moss rock are these rock formations that look like shrines with water pouring on them and pooling at their feet before running off (you have to have visited a Hindu temple to understand the symbology here). Very, very pretty. I had the falls all to myself till about 1 pm. I climbed everywhere that looked climbable, had lunch and took a nap in the sun, by a little stream. Idyllic.
The Way Back
I headed back to camp, at 1pm. I braved the creek and forded it this time. It was much easier than it looked. Besides, the day was nice and warm now, so getting wet wouldn’t have been very uncomfortable. The way back was faster but more painful since it was a slight down hill. I took a brief detour into Phantom Canyon, but didn’t explore very far. Got back to the campsite at around 3:30pm.
There were some ‘reverse trick or treaters’ distributing candy. I was very impressed that they had the motivation to add the weight of a candy bag to their backpacks on the way down. Some people had even brought some simple costumes for Halloween. You couldn’t have paid me to add the weight of a cape and face paint to my pack!
Dinner that night was Top Ramen noodles. Read some and went to bed early.
Nov 14th, 2005, 04:06 PM
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Tuesday Nov 1st
Clear Creek Trail:
Woke up again at 6am. Stretched, the pain is a way of life now, and started up the Clear Creek trail. I hiked up maybe 3 miles or so till the trail levels out. Beautiful views and blissful solitude. Sat on one of the overhangs, watching the river and the mountains around. I was on top of the world looking down on creation. Read for a while and made my painful way down to the campsite at around 10:30. The camp site was deserted again. People had apparently broken camp and started up while I was gawking up on the Clear Creek trail.
Hike to CIG:
Bought a bagel for lunch at phantom ranch, broke camp, put on the heavy pack again and set off for Cottonwood campground, CIG, at around noon. The Bright Angel trail which leads up to CIG is very beautiful. While it doesn’t have the same wide, sweeping vistas as the South Kaibab trail, the trail itself is much more beautiful. The entire trail is by a creek and there’s something about hiking by water that’s magical. I met 3 other people on the trail, M, P and G. We bonded like we’d been friends for a long time. Chatting, laughing and arguing we made our leisurely way up to CIG in a little over 3 hours. It’s an easy 2 to 2 ˝ hour hike, but we were having so much fun!
Hike to Plateau Point
Pitched camp and all four of us set off for Plateau Point to watch the sunset. It’s a level 3 mile roundtrip hike. Plateau Point had breathtakingly beautiful views with the most wonderful colours streaking the sky and reflecting off the various hills. Took lots of photos and sat around talking and gazing into the sunset for yet another glorious finale. It was dark by the time we got back to the camp ground. I had another instant noodles dinner. We chatted for a while and turned in for the night.
Clear Creek Trail:
Woke up again at 6am. Stretched, the pain is a way of life now, and started up the Clear Creek trail. I hiked up maybe 3 miles or so till the trail levels out. Beautiful views and blissful solitude. Sat on one of the overhangs, watching the river and the mountains around. I was on top of the world looking down on creation. Read for a while and made my painful way down to the campsite at around 10:30. The camp site was deserted again. People had apparently broken camp and started up while I was gawking up on the Clear Creek trail.
Hike to CIG:
Bought a bagel for lunch at phantom ranch, broke camp, put on the heavy pack again and set off for Cottonwood campground, CIG, at around noon. The Bright Angel trail which leads up to CIG is very beautiful. While it doesn’t have the same wide, sweeping vistas as the South Kaibab trail, the trail itself is much more beautiful. The entire trail is by a creek and there’s something about hiking by water that’s magical. I met 3 other people on the trail, M, P and G. We bonded like we’d been friends for a long time. Chatting, laughing and arguing we made our leisurely way up to CIG in a little over 3 hours. It’s an easy 2 to 2 ˝ hour hike, but we were having so much fun!
Hike to Plateau Point
Pitched camp and all four of us set off for Plateau Point to watch the sunset. It’s a level 3 mile roundtrip hike. Plateau Point had breathtakingly beautiful views with the most wonderful colours streaking the sky and reflecting off the various hills. Took lots of photos and sat around talking and gazing into the sunset for yet another glorious finale. It was dark by the time we got back to the camp ground. I had another instant noodles dinner. We chatted for a while and turned in for the night.
Nov 15th, 2005, 03:49 AM
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more more! I hoped I'd have a cup of coffee and another installment this morning!
I am going to the GC overnight to hike in Dec. (trail conditions permitting) during a week trip to Sedona. Please don't stop now. Really looking forward to the rest of your trip.
I am going to the GC overnight to hike in Dec. (trail conditions permitting) during a week trip to Sedona. Please don't stop now. Really looking forward to the rest of your trip.
Nov 15th, 2005, 08:42 AM
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ssachida
Thanks for your report so far. I remember your original thread and questions about hiking - I'm glad you had a good time. I've been wanting to do a trip similar to yours, so your report will come in handy. Looking forward to the rest of it when you get time.
Thanks for your report so far. I remember your original thread and questions about hiking - I'm glad you had a good time. I've been wanting to do a trip similar to yours, so your report will come in handy. Looking forward to the rest of it when you get time.
Nov 15th, 2005, 04:31 PM
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Wed Nov 2nd
Hike to the South Rim:
Woke up at 6:30, stretched – yes, the pain while diminished still made its presence know- and started on my way up. M, P and G were still asleep but I decided to get started anyway.
My brain was still sleep muddled and I started walking in the wrong direction within the campground, when this adorable older gentleman, who was having his morning cuppa’ at his campsite, walked over to me and led me to the trailhead. The kindness of strangers is very humbling. Here I am, all pleased with myself for doing this hike. Here I am, puffing up a little bit each time someone says, “All by yourself?” Here I am, this 20 something, so sure of myself. And then there are these other people who would take a break from their quiet morning routine to help a blundering idiot.
Later on the trail, I would meet Steve, a cynical older gentleman, who had started from CBG at 3am. He wasn’t much of an outdoorsman and was working much harder than he was. He saw the negative side to half a dozen things, but never once complained about the ache, or about the trail never ending, or any discomfort he might be feeling. Though, he was clearly not tripping along, moaning, “Are we there yet?” was my job. The Grand Canyon and its people are very humbling.
The way up was as pretty as before. The elevation gain is much sharper on this half of the trail. 3000+feet in 4 ˝ miles. The quick elevation gain tired me quite a bit. I had to keep reminding myself to drink water. Lots of stops and slow trudging later, I got to the top. The last mile or so of the trail is the hardest, not because it’s the steepest but because my legs seemed to know that they were almost done and just wanted to stop. Of course the altitude could have had something to do with it
It was about 11am by now and Steve gave me a ride to the backcountry office. Picked up my car, headed over to the Mather campground, where I would be staying that night, registered and found my way to the showers. Dollar fifty for a timed 5 minute shower, I learnt. No way, was I going to settle for a 5 minute shower after 3 days of stench. I got 4 showers worth of quarters and spent 20 of the most blissfully luxurious minutes in a bathroom ever. Tossed the clothes into a washing machine, plugged my digital camera battery into the office socket and headed over to set up camp. Tossed clothes in the dryer and went over to the Yavapai cafeteria for a fresh, hot lunch. I must have had a 2 hour lunch, just resting my tired body, people watching, reading and generally being lazy. When I went over to finish my laundry I ran into P and G again. We exchanged campsite numbers and agreed to meet later. I also ran into the sweet man from the morning. I got to thank him again while I was more awake
I went back to the rim and just sat at the first nice overlook, engaged in today’s favourite activity – laziness. My initial intention was to walk a part of the rim trail, but my legs wouldn’t co-operate. Giving in, I sat around till sunset and ate the dinner I had bought myself at the cafeteria. Attended a mildly interesting Ranger Program about reptiles and amphibians in the canyon. Earlier, I had bought firewood for a fire, but I was just too tired even to light a fire and sit beside it. Residual tiredness I suppose, but I took the time off, because I knew I would be hiking again the next day. That night was the windiest night I had camped in. Wind howled and my tent frequently shuddered, but it held up. Thank goodness.
Hike to the South Rim:
Woke up at 6:30, stretched – yes, the pain while diminished still made its presence know- and started on my way up. M, P and G were still asleep but I decided to get started anyway.
My brain was still sleep muddled and I started walking in the wrong direction within the campground, when this adorable older gentleman, who was having his morning cuppa’ at his campsite, walked over to me and led me to the trailhead. The kindness of strangers is very humbling. Here I am, all pleased with myself for doing this hike. Here I am, puffing up a little bit each time someone says, “All by yourself?” Here I am, this 20 something, so sure of myself. And then there are these other people who would take a break from their quiet morning routine to help a blundering idiot.
Later on the trail, I would meet Steve, a cynical older gentleman, who had started from CBG at 3am. He wasn’t much of an outdoorsman and was working much harder than he was. He saw the negative side to half a dozen things, but never once complained about the ache, or about the trail never ending, or any discomfort he might be feeling. Though, he was clearly not tripping along, moaning, “Are we there yet?” was my job. The Grand Canyon and its people are very humbling.
The way up was as pretty as before. The elevation gain is much sharper on this half of the trail. 3000+feet in 4 ˝ miles. The quick elevation gain tired me quite a bit. I had to keep reminding myself to drink water. Lots of stops and slow trudging later, I got to the top. The last mile or so of the trail is the hardest, not because it’s the steepest but because my legs seemed to know that they were almost done and just wanted to stop. Of course the altitude could have had something to do with it
It was about 11am by now and Steve gave me a ride to the backcountry office. Picked up my car, headed over to the Mather campground, where I would be staying that night, registered and found my way to the showers. Dollar fifty for a timed 5 minute shower, I learnt. No way, was I going to settle for a 5 minute shower after 3 days of stench. I got 4 showers worth of quarters and spent 20 of the most blissfully luxurious minutes in a bathroom ever. Tossed the clothes into a washing machine, plugged my digital camera battery into the office socket and headed over to set up camp. Tossed clothes in the dryer and went over to the Yavapai cafeteria for a fresh, hot lunch. I must have had a 2 hour lunch, just resting my tired body, people watching, reading and generally being lazy. When I went over to finish my laundry I ran into P and G again. We exchanged campsite numbers and agreed to meet later. I also ran into the sweet man from the morning. I got to thank him again while I was more awake
I went back to the rim and just sat at the first nice overlook, engaged in today’s favourite activity – laziness. My initial intention was to walk a part of the rim trail, but my legs wouldn’t co-operate. Giving in, I sat around till sunset and ate the dinner I had bought myself at the cafeteria. Attended a mildly interesting Ranger Program about reptiles and amphibians in the canyon. Earlier, I had bought firewood for a fire, but I was just too tired even to light a fire and sit beside it. Residual tiredness I suppose, but I took the time off, because I knew I would be hiking again the next day. That night was the windiest night I had camped in. Wind howled and my tent frequently shuddered, but it held up. Thank goodness.
Nov 15th, 2005, 04:33 PM
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Hi Weasel,
Thank you for your help on my old thread. Evry piece of information definitely helped. It'll be good if this report helps you and I'd definitely encourage anyone who wants to do a similar trip. It was an awesome experience.
Thank you for your help on my old thread. Evry piece of information definitely helped. It'll be good if this report helps you and I'd definitely encourage anyone who wants to do a similar trip. It was an awesome experience.
Nov 15th, 2005, 06:30 PM
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Thursday Nov 3rd
Awoke early and went for a 4 mile run along the rim to Pipe Creek Vista. Watched my last sunrise over the canyon, grabbed a shower, broke camp and headed for Sedona at 8am.
Sedona:
Sedona is surprising. I was driving along fairly pretty roads, trying to make good time, when, almost suddenly, the road got narrow and windy. The speed limit was around 30 but I would have been happy to go at 10mph. No, the roads aren’t scary, but the scenery is sooo beautiful. I was surrounded by spearing red rocks mottled with vivid autumn foliage. Every bend brought a delighted ‘ooh’ or ‘aah’ from me. This was the northern part around Oak Creek Canyon and Slide Rock State Park. Finally, I just pulled into a lookout spot and let the impatient drivers behind me pass. Where were they going that was better than right there? (I know, I know, not everyone is a tourist and some people have flights to catch). After stopping several more times, I made my way to the town and its visitor center. I found it slightly odd, that the visitor center didn’t have any parking, but parked in the store (Cheers) across the street and went in for recommendations. Bought my red rock county parking permit ($5/day), got lunch suggestions, directions to the ranger station and left. Bought a monster sandwich for dinner at “Sedona Memories”, a small sandwich place just off the main street (89A). Bought a smoothie in another store for lunch and headed on to the ranger station to register before my hike.
The rangers told me that they don’t take registrations anymore because people don’t always check back in. I begged and pleaded and made sad puppy dog faces, till they agreed to let me register. They closed at 4pm on Friday and were closed for the weekend, so I promised them that I would leave a note on their door if I was later than 4pm the next day. I really wish irresponsible people wouldn’t make trail registration so hard for the likes of me. Anyway, I really appreciate that the rangers bent their policy to let me register. They were very nice and helpful and I definitely recommend a stop there before any Sedona hiking trip. They have all kinds of cool topographical maps and good information.
Secret Canyon Hike
FS152 which is the road that leads to the trail head is a narrow, rutted dirt road that is only passable in dry weather. Inching along between 5 and 15 mph, I made my way to the trailhead and started my hike at around 1:30pm. The Secret Canyon trail follows the course of a dry creek bed. There is some elevation gain and loss especially during the creek crossings, but hey, I’d just hiked the Grand Canyon, this was easy! This is a much narrower canyon than the Grand Canyon and so more intimate. Lots of trees too. A few miles into the trail, the foliage changes from scrub to maples. The maple trees were in all their fall glory. Reds, oranges, yellows and greens all against a background of startlingly red rocks. The reds in Sedona are a deeper and purer red than the reds in the Grand Canyon. The iron content in these rocks is supposedly what colours them.
So up and down, following the trail, I went for about 6 miles. There is a beautiful rock formation at about 5.5 miles, where there would have been a waterfall when the creek had water. The rock there was smooth and sinewy, almost flowing itself. I promised myself that I would stop there for longer on my return, but I had to find a decent campsite before nightfall. Sunset was at 5:30 pm so I had to find a site by 5 and it was already 4pm. About a half mile after this, the trail peters out and the only “trail” after that is the creek bed itself. The creek bed, while easy to follow, is slow work because it is very rocky. At what I guesstimate is around the 7 mile mark, I scrambled up the hill to find a maple grove with a circular clearing in the middle. A perfect campsite. So, surrounded by fiery red and yellow trees, under a sky awash in colour, I set up camp. I could only finish half my monster sandwich even though it was delicious. I did not put on the rain fly on my tent even though it was cold because I wanted to watch the stars.
Oh yes, the stars. Both in Sedona and in the Grand Canyon, the night sky was a marvel. I had never before seen a night sky so large or clear or filled with stars. I was there around new moon day, so there wasn’t much of a moonlight, which only served to enhance the starlight. It reminded of a William Blake poem, “The Auguries of Innocence”, that goes:
“To see a world in a grain of sand,
And heaven in a wild flower,
To hold infinity in the palm of you hand,
And eternity in an hour.”
I guess, I’m not innocent enough, but that night sky definitely felt like infinity, eternity, the world and beyond. Galaxies of stars, hundreds of years old, shining their light down, from beyond beyond, on tiny little me, a spec’s spec in the universe. Awe-inspiring, breathtaking and humbling – the recurring theme through this trip. The scale of everything in this region is, well, awe-inspiring, breathtaking and humbling. And glorious. And magnificent. And … ok, I’ll stop now.
Awoke early and went for a 4 mile run along the rim to Pipe Creek Vista. Watched my last sunrise over the canyon, grabbed a shower, broke camp and headed for Sedona at 8am.
Sedona:
Sedona is surprising. I was driving along fairly pretty roads, trying to make good time, when, almost suddenly, the road got narrow and windy. The speed limit was around 30 but I would have been happy to go at 10mph. No, the roads aren’t scary, but the scenery is sooo beautiful. I was surrounded by spearing red rocks mottled with vivid autumn foliage. Every bend brought a delighted ‘ooh’ or ‘aah’ from me. This was the northern part around Oak Creek Canyon and Slide Rock State Park. Finally, I just pulled into a lookout spot and let the impatient drivers behind me pass. Where were they going that was better than right there? (I know, I know, not everyone is a tourist and some people have flights to catch). After stopping several more times, I made my way to the town and its visitor center. I found it slightly odd, that the visitor center didn’t have any parking, but parked in the store (Cheers) across the street and went in for recommendations. Bought my red rock county parking permit ($5/day), got lunch suggestions, directions to the ranger station and left. Bought a monster sandwich for dinner at “Sedona Memories”, a small sandwich place just off the main street (89A). Bought a smoothie in another store for lunch and headed on to the ranger station to register before my hike.
The rangers told me that they don’t take registrations anymore because people don’t always check back in. I begged and pleaded and made sad puppy dog faces, till they agreed to let me register. They closed at 4pm on Friday and were closed for the weekend, so I promised them that I would leave a note on their door if I was later than 4pm the next day. I really wish irresponsible people wouldn’t make trail registration so hard for the likes of me. Anyway, I really appreciate that the rangers bent their policy to let me register. They were very nice and helpful and I definitely recommend a stop there before any Sedona hiking trip. They have all kinds of cool topographical maps and good information.
Secret Canyon Hike
FS152 which is the road that leads to the trail head is a narrow, rutted dirt road that is only passable in dry weather. Inching along between 5 and 15 mph, I made my way to the trailhead and started my hike at around 1:30pm. The Secret Canyon trail follows the course of a dry creek bed. There is some elevation gain and loss especially during the creek crossings, but hey, I’d just hiked the Grand Canyon, this was easy! This is a much narrower canyon than the Grand Canyon and so more intimate. Lots of trees too. A few miles into the trail, the foliage changes from scrub to maples. The maple trees were in all their fall glory. Reds, oranges, yellows and greens all against a background of startlingly red rocks. The reds in Sedona are a deeper and purer red than the reds in the Grand Canyon. The iron content in these rocks is supposedly what colours them.
So up and down, following the trail, I went for about 6 miles. There is a beautiful rock formation at about 5.5 miles, where there would have been a waterfall when the creek had water. The rock there was smooth and sinewy, almost flowing itself. I promised myself that I would stop there for longer on my return, but I had to find a decent campsite before nightfall. Sunset was at 5:30 pm so I had to find a site by 5 and it was already 4pm. About a half mile after this, the trail peters out and the only “trail” after that is the creek bed itself. The creek bed, while easy to follow, is slow work because it is very rocky. At what I guesstimate is around the 7 mile mark, I scrambled up the hill to find a maple grove with a circular clearing in the middle. A perfect campsite. So, surrounded by fiery red and yellow trees, under a sky awash in colour, I set up camp. I could only finish half my monster sandwich even though it was delicious. I did not put on the rain fly on my tent even though it was cold because I wanted to watch the stars.
Oh yes, the stars. Both in Sedona and in the Grand Canyon, the night sky was a marvel. I had never before seen a night sky so large or clear or filled with stars. I was there around new moon day, so there wasn’t much of a moonlight, which only served to enhance the starlight. It reminded of a William Blake poem, “The Auguries of Innocence”, that goes:
“To see a world in a grain of sand,
And heaven in a wild flower,
To hold infinity in the palm of you hand,
And eternity in an hour.”
I guess, I’m not innocent enough, but that night sky definitely felt like infinity, eternity, the world and beyond. Galaxies of stars, hundreds of years old, shining their light down, from beyond beyond, on tiny little me, a spec’s spec in the universe. Awe-inspiring, breathtaking and humbling – the recurring theme through this trip. The scale of everything in this region is, well, awe-inspiring, breathtaking and humbling. And glorious. And magnificent. And … ok, I’ll stop now.
Nov 16th, 2005, 04:37 AM
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We are planning to hike Long Canyon in Dec., along w/Bear and Doe mountains and some others in that area during our week in west Sedona. We may try Secret Canyon instead of Long Cnayon. One thing I am concerned about is how close Long Canyon is to the new Seven Canyons development, on Long Creek Rd. There is construction there (and a guard's gate which prohibits you from going any further on the road- no access to some of the old trails further out). But I suppose if you can hear any noise on the trail it would hopefully only be at the beginning and would fade a mile or so in. It depresses me though, as that area off Dry Creek road has always been so quiet and peaceful and wilderness, as you describe it (aside from Enchantment). Seven Canyons is a golf/home development, and I have yet to figure out how it got built on what seems to be U.S. Forest Service land. I am hoping to figure this out in Dec. when I have time to root around and talk to the locals.
Your hike and camp sound wonderful. Many people don't know of the Ranger's Station that you went to. It is tucked away, and most people just go to the tourist center. I also go to the Ranger's station as they have info on road and trail conditions. I have had the same experience with trail registration. Some of the more popular trails have sign ins at the trailhead, but the rangers only check them if someone calls and reports you missing, and they only exist on a few trails.
There are always alot of questions and recommendations on this board for places to stay in Sedona. I think you got the best room, with the best view and deck to watch the stars. So what if there was no room service.
I am wondering if you backtracked on your trail to get out, or if you continued on the loop to return via Bearsign Canyon. If you did the latter, I'd be interested in knowing how long it took you total to hike the loop. And did you hear any coyotes during the night? I have seen wild boar out there.
Thank you for your wonderful report. It is really getting me revved up for Dec.
Your hike and camp sound wonderful. Many people don't know of the Ranger's Station that you went to. It is tucked away, and most people just go to the tourist center. I also go to the Ranger's station as they have info on road and trail conditions. I have had the same experience with trail registration. Some of the more popular trails have sign ins at the trailhead, but the rangers only check them if someone calls and reports you missing, and they only exist on a few trails.
There are always alot of questions and recommendations on this board for places to stay in Sedona. I think you got the best room, with the best view and deck to watch the stars. So what if there was no room service.
I am wondering if you backtracked on your trail to get out, or if you continued on the loop to return via Bearsign Canyon. If you did the latter, I'd be interested in knowing how long it took you total to hike the loop. And did you hear any coyotes during the night? I have seen wild boar out there.
Thank you for your wonderful report. It is really getting me revved up for Dec.
Nov 16th, 2005, 05:33 AM
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emd,
I actually hiked a part of long canyon the next day. About 3 hours in and back. It was very quiet, and any sign of construction faded away after the first half mile or so. I don't know if things will have changed by december, but thats what I found. But thats the reason I didn't go to Boynton Canyon. The idea of hiking by the wall of a resort put me off.
People tell me that the west fork of oak creek canyon is very similar to secret canyon except that the west fork has water.
I backtracked, though I did hike the couple of hours I still needed to go to the other end of the canyon. I just didn't have ride at the other end, so I backtracked. I thought about the bearsign loop, but the trail to the loop is not marked on secret canyon trail, and this being my first solo trip, I decided to play it safe. I thought I knew where the turn off was, but well, maybe another time.
I heard coyotes and javelinas (the wild boar mutants). The coyotes were in the distance but I thought I heard some grunting pretty near my tent. I turned on my light and made some loud noises and I heard running. But, I wasn't bothered after that one incident. Part of the issue was that I didn't bearbag my stuff. I still had half a sandwich and assorted snacks in my bag, in my tent - i know, it was stupid. I just decided to chance it.
I actually hiked a part of long canyon the next day. About 3 hours in and back. It was very quiet, and any sign of construction faded away after the first half mile or so. I don't know if things will have changed by december, but thats what I found. But thats the reason I didn't go to Boynton Canyon. The idea of hiking by the wall of a resort put me off.
People tell me that the west fork of oak creek canyon is very similar to secret canyon except that the west fork has water.
I backtracked, though I did hike the couple of hours I still needed to go to the other end of the canyon. I just didn't have ride at the other end, so I backtracked. I thought about the bearsign loop, but the trail to the loop is not marked on secret canyon trail, and this being my first solo trip, I decided to play it safe. I thought I knew where the turn off was, but well, maybe another time.
I heard coyotes and javelinas (the wild boar mutants). The coyotes were in the distance but I thought I heard some grunting pretty near my tent. I turned on my light and made some loud noises and I heard running. But, I wasn't bothered after that one incident. Part of the issue was that I didn't bearbag my stuff. I still had half a sandwich and assorted snacks in my bag, in my tent - i know, it was stupid. I just decided to chance it.
Nov 16th, 2005, 05:52 AM
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ssachida
My big question is what kind of preparation you did for the GC hiking, in terms of physical training? It sounds like your legs were pretty sore, and I want to avoid that when I go if I can, so did you prep by hiking up and down hills ahead of time? I know alot of people in the Phoenix area hike up and down Piestewa Peak to get ready for hiking to the bottom of GC, but obviously you're not from Phoenix so you didn't do that. Were there any hills near you or did you just do flat stuff?
Were you happy with the route you took to the bottom? I know that's the recommended way for a round-trip, if someone doesn't want to go up and down Bright Angel. Or would you say it would've been a bit easier on your legs to go down Bright Angel and up South Kaibab, even though it would've made for a more difficult trek out?
My big question is what kind of preparation you did for the GC hiking, in terms of physical training? It sounds like your legs were pretty sore, and I want to avoid that when I go if I can, so did you prep by hiking up and down hills ahead of time? I know alot of people in the Phoenix area hike up and down Piestewa Peak to get ready for hiking to the bottom of GC, but obviously you're not from Phoenix so you didn't do that. Were there any hills near you or did you just do flat stuff?
Were you happy with the route you took to the bottom? I know that's the recommended way for a round-trip, if someone doesn't want to go up and down Bright Angel. Or would you say it would've been a bit easier on your legs to go down Bright Angel and up South Kaibab, even though it would've made for a more difficult trek out?
Nov 16th, 2005, 06:13 AM
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Hi Weasel,
For a 1st time GC hike, I would recommend the route I took. I don't think it would have made a difference to soreness of my legs if I took a different route. The only reason to ever go up the South Kaibab, is if you want to get to the top faster. The sweeping vistas are behind you most of the time when going up.
I live in Chicago - no hills around here. My quads and hamstrings were fine. My calves were the killer. On hind sight, I should have used the machines in my gym to strengthen my calves. I also should have stretched before I went to bed that first night. I totally under-estimated the effect of a downhill hike. I do workout my hams and quads on a regular basis, but not my calves much. I also don't run outdoors much, and if you do, that will help some.
I had thought about my knees and thas why I got a walking staff. I was even considering taping up my knees before heading down, but I forgot. My knees were fine though. They just needed a day of rest after i got back - no running/biking for a day, thats all.
For a 1st time GC hike, I would recommend the route I took. I don't think it would have made a difference to soreness of my legs if I took a different route. The only reason to ever go up the South Kaibab, is if you want to get to the top faster. The sweeping vistas are behind you most of the time when going up.
I live in Chicago - no hills around here. My quads and hamstrings were fine. My calves were the killer. On hind sight, I should have used the machines in my gym to strengthen my calves. I also should have stretched before I went to bed that first night. I totally under-estimated the effect of a downhill hike. I do workout my hams and quads on a regular basis, but not my calves much. I also don't run outdoors much, and if you do, that will help some.
I had thought about my knees and thas why I got a walking staff. I was even considering taping up my knees before heading down, but I forgot. My knees were fine though. They just needed a day of rest after i got back - no running/biking for a day, thats all.
