Tania

A question:

I'm doing a three week trip to Greece this August, and had my itinerary is

Athens - 1 night
Delphi - 1 night
Olympia - 1 night
Nafplio - 4 nights
Athens - 1 night
Naxos - 6 nights
Santorini - 7 nights

As I draw closer to the date, I'm starting to rethink the first three days of the journey, and possibly foregoing Olympia. I'm going to be travelling by public transport, and am thinking that too much of my time will be spent on a bus, with very little time savouring each place. My question is this: Would it be worth it for me to stay in Delphi (or near Delphi) for two nights? I don't know enough about the smaller villages in the region, but would love to meander around towns near Delphi that are not so touristy, but that are still vibrant. Or would you suggest biting the bullet and doing both Delphi and Olympia for one night each? (the drag of doing both, though, is being at the mercy of local bus schedules.)

Any thoughts?

tania

Bootman4U

Are you sure you wouldn't be better off taking the so-called "Classic Tour" out of Athens that includes Epidaurus, delphi, Corinth, and Olympia. I love public transport and being on my own but you won't spend any MORE time on a bus than you will on the train or public busses doing these same sights..probably less. I agree when on your own you'll have the ability to spend as much time as you want in each place...but let's face it, there's only so much time you can spend contemplating ruins..and if you are using public transport you may be FORCED to do a whole LOT of hanging around a place until the next bus leaves.
As I said, I'm not a big fan of "organized" tours but sometimes I think for efficiency and ease they are worth considering. Just a thought.

AP6380

I would take 2 nights from your Santorini portion and 2 from the Naxos part and add them to your one night stops.

cparris

We also did a 5 night bus tour of the Pelopenese, It was well worth the ease. We visited Epidaurus, Mycenae, Olympia, Delphi and Meteora... We had done most of it years before by car and the bus trip really was better and easier. It is easy to find a tour company and the rates weren't too expensive. I would highly recommend seeing these places. Delphi is beautiful. I also don't usually do bus trips but in this case it was well worth it.

WanderingTexan

Delphi is beautiful, but one night was enough. Nafplio is charming and we really enjoyed staying there a few days. 2 days in Athens is perfect.

Trish

Hey Tania,
I was wondering how your planning was going, we're about set for ours (I hope). I think the suggestion about doing the classical tour may work well for you. You also may want to check out the Lonely Planet books for general bus information and drive times, they've helped me a lot for our Peloponesse tour.

Nadia

I agree with AP6380. For bus schedules try the official Greece bus schedule at www.ktel.org

Tania

Hey,

Thanks for all of your replies. (Hi Trish!!!!!! Ladies and Gentleman, my unofficial Greece advisor, Trish!)

First off, there's NO WAY I'm gonna take even a minute off of Santorini or Naxos! I travel only once a year, and I've never visited an island. I intentionally designed the trip so that the longest stays would occur on Naxos and Santorini, so that I can do some seriously decadent and delicious R and R before going back to the high stress that comes with my job. (Rejuvination should never be rushed!)

Now backtracking, the 4 days I'm spending in Nafplio will be hectic as it is, as I can do day trips every day, effortlessly, to the likes of Epidaurus, Corinth, Mycenae and Argos (enjoying the charm of Nafplio for the latter part of each day/evening). There are tons of buses for day trips out of Nafplio, so waiting around won't be a problem there.

So, given that I ain't budging for all of the above, that really only leaves me with those two days in Delphi and Olympia to play around with.

A classical tour would have to cut out a day/night in Nafplio, and that's only the three day tour. And the five day tour would turn my Nafplio leg totally upside down (AND I wouldn't be able to have a home base, which I want).

So. (she said, stubbornly) The question stands! Two nights in Delphi and environs (and does anyone know of towns worth seeing near it?) Or one night in Delphi and one in Olympia? (I think the museum there will be closed in preparation for the Olympics.) Is the site itself compelling and memorable enough to spend a few hours travelling to without the museum being open?)

tania

ps-Trish, when are you leaving? Which specific parts of Greece are you going to this year? Is your dad psyched for this go-round?

Heimdall

While in Naxos try to take a day trip to the island of Delos. There are boats which can take you there and back without having to stay on Mykonos. If you like classical sights, Delos is unforgettable.

Theodora

The museum at Olympia is definitely not to be missed. It contains most of the metope sculptures and pediments (Lapiths vs Centaurs, etc) from the Temple of Zeus, and the most amazing Parian marble statue of the "Hermes of Praxitales" of which the photograph is found in most artbooks that contain Greek sculpture as well as Zeus & Ganymedes. Also if you are into the history, the helmet of Miltiades is can be found there. The museum there may be open now, but Delphi was closed for construction a while ago. If they are closed, it is still worth it but a disappointment not to view all the statues that were on the site which will have been put in the museum for protection.
As for your question, I would do both Delphi and Olympia as laid out in your schedule, or try to do Delphi in the morning on the way to Olympia where you would spend the night in Olympia, and the next morning visit the site at Olympia. That is if it is possible with the bus schedules. Another option is seeing the site at Olympia without staying overnight and moving on to Nafplio for the night where you will be able to spend the next day in Argos which does not have too many tourists.

Tania

Heimdall,

Delos is already part of the plan!

Great minds.......

Trish

Hey Tania,
We arrive in Greece August 7 and are picking up our rental and driving to Patras (4 nights) then Kythira (4 nights) Elafonissos (2nights) Monemvassia (1 night) Nafplio (2 nights) and Spetses (3 night) Athens then home.

My husband and I were looking at a Greek map when you leave Delphi do you have to back to Athens or is there a bus that makes the crossing at Nafpakto/Rio, because that would save a lot of time and then would put you fairly close to Olympia. It's 2 hours by bus or train from Patras to Olympia. It must be frustrating to plan this leg not knowing the bus schedules.

If it looks like our paths will cross somewhere and you want hitch a ride let me know I think we could squeeze one more in the Hyundai Atos.

Tania

Trish,

Your itinerary sounds dreamy. I've read some great things about Elafonissos--so quiet and tranquil--It was actually on my original itinerary, until Nafplio and its surrounding ruin towns turned into this out of control monster that swallowed me. (happily so). But I'll be interested in hearing more about Elafonissos when you get back. Maybe next trip. Monemvassia and Spetses were also considerations. So this is great--I can travel to these places vicariously through you!

As to my Delphi/Olympia dilemma, I took your advice and turned to the Lonely Planet Bible (funny how this is a Fodors site, yet so many of us swear by Lonely Planet)... did a lot more reading on both sites, and have decided (drum roll please) to go against conventional wisdom and do two days in Delphi. My reasoning being that (you may all now turn to page 274 in your Lonely Planet guides) it recommends that if you're doing one week in central Greece (which I'm not, but that's beside point!)to "visit the Oracle of Delphi. Allow two days for this magical place." I've decided that I like the idea of taking a full day to relish the site, and to spend the second day visiting nearby town of Arahova and/or the seaside town of Galaxidi, and possibly returning back to a favoured spot in ancient Delphi to do some writing. The decision is sitting really well with me, and suddenly I don't feel stressed. My reasoning is also founded on the fact that as cool as Olympia must be, Delphi is the one place in Greece (apart from the obvious Santorini) that most attracts me. I've got to pay attention to that, and not pass through it so quickly. My instincts are usually right when finding magic when I travel.

That said, getting from Delphi to Nafplio via the Rio crossing or via Athens would take about the same amount of time, assuming there were no bus transfers. But seeing as there are, I'll see what the schedules are like once in Delphi and decide the route once there.

Thanks so much for the ride hitch offer, assuming we crossed paths. But as Nafplio is the only destination we share, I'll have been there and done that before you get there. But it was totally sweet of you to offer!

tania

AP6380

Trish-

Please post about Elafonissos when you get back. By the way, you are referring to the very small island of Elafonissos, right? I posted awhile ago trying to find out more info about this place and there were not any responses. I would love to hear about where you will be staying. Is it planned or will you get a place when you get there?

Tania

AP6380,

Until Trish gets here, check out this link. It's quite a good little travel log on Elafonissos.

http://www.greeklandscapes.com/greece/elafonisos.html

tania

AP6380

Tania,

That's actually part of the reason why I became interested in Elafonissos. It is one of the very few sites with any info on this island!

Trish

Tania,
I think you made a wise decision, you are allowing yourself the time to enjoy the site more and it looks so beautiful. It's funny how we both wanted to go to Meterora yet are not going to make it this trip. By the way when you decide you want to see Spetses let me know my husband's aunt and uncle have a hotel, they are very sweet but don't speak english.
AP6380,
I think it was your post that got me thinking about Elafonisi and yes info is very hard to find. http://www.hotelhellas.gr/hotel.html that's the link to the hotel where we are staying it's all in Greek but there is pictures it's about 65 euros and it took us about a month to track down the owner for reservations. I found about 8 hotels on the island and they all looked fine and cost roughly the same. We don't usually make reservations but this is our first time traveeling at peak season so we thought we better plus I have my Dad with us and I don't think he'd be impressed with sleeping on the beach. We will in Elafonisi for August 15 holiday so I figure it will be busy. Here is a link to another hotel http://www.geocities.com/villa_alcyo...lafonisos.html

joyride

I was just in Greece, in many of the places on your itinerary, May 13-27, 2003, with my family (including sons 18 & 20 yrs old).

First of all, I can confirm that many Greek museums are still under renovation, trying to get spiffed-up for the Olympics next summer -- the museums at Delphi, Olympia, and the National Archeological Museum in Athens are all closed. I did know that before we left, and just figured it would free us up to see some other, less-visited museums. I visited the Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens and would definitely recommend it.

Delphi is a beautiful and magical site. Give yourself plenty of time to explore and reflect. Be sure to bring a guide book that explains in detail the significance of the different areas, as the museum is closed and there is little information otherwise. The town of Delphi is quaint -- be sure to eat at a restaurant with a terrace and stay in a room with a balcony overlooking the spectacular view down the valley to the Gulf of Corinth.

Sounds like you already looked into visiting some of the little towns down on the Gulf, if you run out of things to do on your second day in Delphi. I did see these areas, passing through on our way to the ferry, as well as parks further up in the mountains, and put them on a mental list for another trip. Writing in Delphi sounds like a perfect plan. One of those terraces I was talking about earlier, would be a great place for that.

By the way, we skipped Olympia, as the boys were tired of ancient sites, after two days in Athens and one in Delphi. We ended up putting in beach and outdoor exploring time (King Nestor's cave) north of Pylos and then over to Elafonissos. It really is true that whatever it is you want to experience on your trip to Greece -- mountains, beautiful beaches, ancient sites, forests, cities, etc. -- you can find it all on the Peloponnese.

Elafonissos is tiny, very quiet (most places were not yet open in May) and has a stunningly beautiful white sand/aqua water beach, SImos. The water is shallow, so it was nice and warm for swimming in May. There are simple places to stay on the harbor and also newly-built bungalows and camping out by Simos Beach. We took a 15-minute car ferry from Vigklafia that cost about 11 euros. Be sure to bring money as no one takes travelers checks and there are no banks or atms.

I totally support your not wanting to cut short your island time! We had five days in Santorini at the end of our trip and we absolutely loved it. We had one windy, cloudy day there and spent it visiting several museums in Fira: the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (incredible pottery and other items unearthed from volcanic ash), the Megaron Gyzi museum (photos after the earthquake plus some art) and the Nomikos Convention Center (3-D reproductions of the Akrotiri Frescoes). These are all small museums, easy to fit in an afternoon, but worth seeing. We had lunch at Nicolas restaurant, which is authentic Greek and delicious. We also walked down to the port and took the cable car back up. By about 4PM, all the cruise ships had sailed away, and the town was almost deserted and lovely. You will have a different experience in August. I would expect the entire island to be very crowded, even after the ships sail!

I hope you have as wonderful a time as we did in Greece. All four of us loved it, and that is a very rare recommendation!

Tania

Joyride,

I appreciate the recommendations to the smaller museums in Santorini and Athens. Thanks!

I lucked out with my hotel in Delphi (Hotel Hermes) in that my room apparently has an unbelievable view of the valley.

Would you know, by any chance, if there are audio guides available in Delphi? I used one in Pompeii last summer, and found it really made the site come to life.

joyride

I did not see audio guides or anyone using them at Delphi. All I remember was a tiny shed where you bought your ticket. Above that, there were the wcs.

There is a little cafe by the side of the road, a little ways down, where you can get postcards and maybe some guides (though probably not audio) to the site. We brought along the Eyewitness Travel Guide, Greece: Athens & the Mainland, and found it really good. It explains the various areas of ancient Delphi, has photographs and drawings of what the place looked like in ancient times. It really helps you visualize it.

The Athens section was helpful also. For instance, it was the only place I could find a drawing of what the Parthenon looked like when it was painted with blue, red and gold.

We left most of our guide books behind, but I was really glad we brought that one along.

In general, you will find Greece a pretty low-tech kind of place, which was just fine with us. Many museums, for instance, don't have museum shops. So audio guides are probably not too common, though it was hard for us to tell, with most of the major museums closed!