Trip Report: Rome, Florence/Tuscany and Venice -- we can't wait to go back!!
Apr 3rd, 2005, 11:20 AM
#1
Trip Report: Rome, Florence/Tuscany and Venice -- we can't wait to go back!!
1. Overview
My wife and I just returned from 10 incredible days in Italy (March 16-26). We are nearing 50 at an alarming rate and decided to take one of those trips of a lifetime. And it was. Absolutely fabulous time exploring a beautiful and historic country. Our first 4 nights were spent in Rome. We then toured Umbria and southern Tuscany for a day with a private guide/driver, ending up in Siena. After a morning exploring Siena on our own, our guide picked us up and drove us to more of those charming hill top towns before arriving in Florence late in the day. We spent a second night in Florence after a full day of sightseeing and shopping. Then off to Venice via Eurostar train for our final 2 nights. I hadn't been to Italy in 20 years and my wife had never been. We hope to be back soon.
2. Trip planning
As the trip planner, I can't begin to express my gratitude to all the posters on this board. This trip came off without a hitch only because I was so well prepared by all the thoughtful people here. Thank you, thank you, thank you. There is no way I could have done this trip without you.
I will try to add a few planning tidbits.
First, this site is addictive...
Second, www.everdial.com (a Primus company)offers a 10 10 dial around telephone service which makes calling Italy (or anywhere else) very cheap. They offer several plans. If like me you don't do a lot of international calling, their 10 10 555 plan ("everdial around"
is great because there are no monthly fees, no minimums, and the rate is something like 8 cents a minute 24/7. You will have to register online but it's pretty painless. Just make sure you're signing up for the right plan. You can go to www.10-10phonerates.com to check out a comparison of all the international calling plans to see which best suits your needs. I used the everdial plan to book and confirm hotels and advance book some museum reservations. Gave me a lot of peace of mind.
Third, bring a very detailed map of Rome and Venice. The streets there are charmingly chaotic but maddenly frustrating to navigate/find. Fortunately, the Italins were very helpful on the few ocassions we were truly lost. AAA has a good waterproof and tear resistant map with good size print for the heart of Rome. For Venice, I had an invaluable "popout" map which can be found at www.popoutmaps.com. Very compact and very informative (had the vaporetto sytem too).
Fourth, books. Everyone has their favorites. For Rome, I found the National Geographic Traveler book very helpful. The bulk of it is devoted to the sights with great pictures. There are good walking itineraries with maps and points of interest highlighted and discussed. Very little on hotels, restaurants, etc which I didn't need after using this site. For Umbria/Tuscany, the Thomas Cook Signpost Guides "Tuscany and Umbria: Your guide to great drives" (2003) was excellant for describing all the various towns and regions and their ppoints of interest along with good road maps, good pictures and a concise rating of the town's scenery, art, food, museums, shopping, kids stuff, wineries, architecture, etc. For Venice, the Fodor's City Pack "Venice's Best" was excellant. Great map and very good walking tours with descriptions of the highlights. I had bought an english to italian eating and drinking translation book but didn't end up using it. Many of the restaurants had menus in both languages and those that didn't had friendly, bilingual waiters who translated.
Fifth, for the camera buffs, you should know that flashes and tripods (even the small ones) are not allowed in most churches. Also, some churches do not allow any pictures. In those churches where you can take pictures, I had great luck using a cable release. I would find a chair, the floor, a railing, a baptismal font, or some other sturdy place to set the camera and use the release.
Sixth, money. We brought $200 as a backup/emergency fund which we never had to use. No traveller's checks. Credit cards and ATMs are the way to go. ATM machines are plentiful. We had 2 ATM cards in case one wasn't accepted, got eaten, etc. We brought 75 euros with us to cover our taxi from the airport (50 E) plus any incidentals. If you get euros in the states, the exchange rate is lousy so get just the minimum.
Seventh, we brought Melatonin to help us ease the jet lag. It seemed to help. We took it on the way over to facilitate sleep and then on the first night there at bed time.
3. Packing
We tried to "pack light". We each brought a 24 inch suitcase (the "Pathfinder" brand, model Presidential 3LT, which is lighter weight and smaller than most we looked at), which we checked, and a day pack with carry on essentials (food, books, etc.) plus one day of clothing, etc. in case our luggage didn't make it (it did).
The Rick Steves website has a really good packing check list. Everything fit comfortable in our suitcases. My wife was pleasantly surprised at how well she adapted to using mix and match clothes instead of separate outfits for each day. Quite a change for her but it worked well. I think she had 4 such sets plus her travel clothes. We each favor the nylon zip off style pants. Ex officio and REI sell them. LLBean also has a lightweight cotton pair. They have many zipper pockets which is a great comfort in cities reknown for pickpockets and the nylon ones will keep you dry in rainy weather.
If you plan to travel by train, the 24 inch suitcases may or may not fit in the space above the seats. On some trains, I thought they would, on others I wasn't so sure. But they will fit, as will any size, on the luggage racks at the end of each car. However, space there is limited so get on board early.
The Rick Steves silk money belts were good and a lot cheaper ($9.00) than all others I looked at.
I brought binoculars for the church ceilings but wouldn't do that again. They were great for the Sistine Chapel but not much else.
4. Flights
We left St. Louis on 3/16 via American Airlines at 12:20pm and, after changing planes in O'Hare, arrived in Rome (FCO) at 8:45 am on 3/17, about 30 minutes late. We each got some sleep en route which was a huge help that first day. We departed from Venice on 3/26 at 10:45am and after stops in Frankfort and Chicago, arrived home on time and with luggage at 9:00 pm in St. Louis.
Next installment: Rome
My wife and I just returned from 10 incredible days in Italy (March 16-26). We are nearing 50 at an alarming rate and decided to take one of those trips of a lifetime. And it was. Absolutely fabulous time exploring a beautiful and historic country. Our first 4 nights were spent in Rome. We then toured Umbria and southern Tuscany for a day with a private guide/driver, ending up in Siena. After a morning exploring Siena on our own, our guide picked us up and drove us to more of those charming hill top towns before arriving in Florence late in the day. We spent a second night in Florence after a full day of sightseeing and shopping. Then off to Venice via Eurostar train for our final 2 nights. I hadn't been to Italy in 20 years and my wife had never been. We hope to be back soon.
2. Trip planning
As the trip planner, I can't begin to express my gratitude to all the posters on this board. This trip came off without a hitch only because I was so well prepared by all the thoughtful people here. Thank you, thank you, thank you. There is no way I could have done this trip without you.
I will try to add a few planning tidbits.
First, this site is addictive...
Second, www.everdial.com (a Primus company)offers a 10 10 dial around telephone service which makes calling Italy (or anywhere else) very cheap. They offer several plans. If like me you don't do a lot of international calling, their 10 10 555 plan ("everdial around"
is great because there are no monthly fees, no minimums, and the rate is something like 8 cents a minute 24/7. You will have to register online but it's pretty painless. Just make sure you're signing up for the right plan. You can go to www.10-10phonerates.com to check out a comparison of all the international calling plans to see which best suits your needs. I used the everdial plan to book and confirm hotels and advance book some museum reservations. Gave me a lot of peace of mind.Third, bring a very detailed map of Rome and Venice. The streets there are charmingly chaotic but maddenly frustrating to navigate/find. Fortunately, the Italins were very helpful on the few ocassions we were truly lost. AAA has a good waterproof and tear resistant map with good size print for the heart of Rome. For Venice, I had an invaluable "popout" map which can be found at www.popoutmaps.com. Very compact and very informative (had the vaporetto sytem too).
Fourth, books. Everyone has their favorites. For Rome, I found the National Geographic Traveler book very helpful. The bulk of it is devoted to the sights with great pictures. There are good walking itineraries with maps and points of interest highlighted and discussed. Very little on hotels, restaurants, etc which I didn't need after using this site. For Umbria/Tuscany, the Thomas Cook Signpost Guides "Tuscany and Umbria: Your guide to great drives" (2003) was excellant for describing all the various towns and regions and their ppoints of interest along with good road maps, good pictures and a concise rating of the town's scenery, art, food, museums, shopping, kids stuff, wineries, architecture, etc. For Venice, the Fodor's City Pack "Venice's Best" was excellant. Great map and very good walking tours with descriptions of the highlights. I had bought an english to italian eating and drinking translation book but didn't end up using it. Many of the restaurants had menus in both languages and those that didn't had friendly, bilingual waiters who translated.
Fifth, for the camera buffs, you should know that flashes and tripods (even the small ones) are not allowed in most churches. Also, some churches do not allow any pictures. In those churches where you can take pictures, I had great luck using a cable release. I would find a chair, the floor, a railing, a baptismal font, or some other sturdy place to set the camera and use the release.
Sixth, money. We brought $200 as a backup/emergency fund which we never had to use. No traveller's checks. Credit cards and ATMs are the way to go. ATM machines are plentiful. We had 2 ATM cards in case one wasn't accepted, got eaten, etc. We brought 75 euros with us to cover our taxi from the airport (50 E) plus any incidentals. If you get euros in the states, the exchange rate is lousy so get just the minimum.
Seventh, we brought Melatonin to help us ease the jet lag. It seemed to help. We took it on the way over to facilitate sleep and then on the first night there at bed time.
3. Packing
We tried to "pack light". We each brought a 24 inch suitcase (the "Pathfinder" brand, model Presidential 3LT, which is lighter weight and smaller than most we looked at), which we checked, and a day pack with carry on essentials (food, books, etc.) plus one day of clothing, etc. in case our luggage didn't make it (it did).
The Rick Steves website has a really good packing check list. Everything fit comfortable in our suitcases. My wife was pleasantly surprised at how well she adapted to using mix and match clothes instead of separate outfits for each day. Quite a change for her but it worked well. I think she had 4 such sets plus her travel clothes. We each favor the nylon zip off style pants. Ex officio and REI sell them. LLBean also has a lightweight cotton pair. They have many zipper pockets which is a great comfort in cities reknown for pickpockets and the nylon ones will keep you dry in rainy weather.
If you plan to travel by train, the 24 inch suitcases may or may not fit in the space above the seats. On some trains, I thought they would, on others I wasn't so sure. But they will fit, as will any size, on the luggage racks at the end of each car. However, space there is limited so get on board early.
The Rick Steves silk money belts were good and a lot cheaper ($9.00) than all others I looked at.
I brought binoculars for the church ceilings but wouldn't do that again. They were great for the Sistine Chapel but not much else.
4. Flights
We left St. Louis on 3/16 via American Airlines at 12:20pm and, after changing planes in O'Hare, arrived in Rome (FCO) at 8:45 am on 3/17, about 30 minutes late. We each got some sleep en route which was a huge help that first day. We departed from Venice on 3/26 at 10:45am and after stops in Frankfort and Chicago, arrived home on time and with luggage at 9:00 pm in St. Louis.
Next installment: Rome
Apr 3rd, 2005, 12:31 PM
#3
Join Date: Sep 2004
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dcd,
I like your reporting style: practical, informative and easy to read. Looking foward to more.
<< -- we can't wait to go back!!>> I wish you the best - hope you don't wait another 20 years.
I like your reporting style: practical, informative and easy to read. Looking foward to more.
<< -- we can't wait to go back!!>> I wish you the best - hope you don't wait another 20 years.
Apr 3rd, 2005, 02:00 PM
#6
Rome
Hotel: We stayed at the Daphne Inn Veneto (www.daphne-rome.com) located a half block north of the Piazza Barberini. With a bathroom in the room we paid 144 E per nite cash (or 160 E with a credit card). This place is incredible. Small hotel with maybe 10 rooms on 4 floors. The owners, Alessandro and his American wife, Elyssa, are hands on and together with their perfect english speaking staff, offer hospitality that is absolutely first rate. They aim to please and boy do they. No wonder this place is at or near the top on Trip Advisor (under B&Bs). They make a point of sitting down with you the first day to give you a map and to make suggestions on what to see and do. And they are in no hurry to do so. They give you a cell phone and only charge you for the minutes used. The phone really came in handy on a couple of occasions. Our room and bathroom were large, air conditioned, and quiet with a very comfortable bed. There is free internet service and a terrific breakfast which includes meats and cheese. The Daphne Veneto has an elevator. (Their sister property, the Daphne Trevi, does not.) All the necessary transportation (metro, taxi, and bus) is within a block. The location is fairly central to all the main sights in Rome: the Pantheon is maybe a 10 minute walk; the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Borghese Gardens are a 15 minute walk; the Piazza Novona is a 20 minute walk; and the Colleseum is probably 45 minutes and the Vatican probably 60 minutes or so. The Via Veneto starts at the Piazza Barberini. The hotel's recommendations for restaurants and sightseeing were terrrific. All in all, a great, great value. We will stay there again.
Sightseeing: We had 4 days of sunshine, nary a cloud to be seen, with temps in the mid to upper 60s. We used Context Rome for 4 tours and were very pleased with all of them. They aren't cheap but the small group format (maximum 6 per tour) allowed for a lot of Q & A which we really like. Plus there is no trouble hearing. The guides all speak very good english, have or are getting advanced degrees in their topics, and have a passion for their subjects.
On Day 1, we did the Vatican/St. Peters tour (60 E each plus entry fee to Vatican museum of 12 E each) from 1:00- 4:00 and managed to stay awake and alert thanks to a diet coke (or coke "light" as they're called there) 30 minutes in! Most of the time was spent visiting the museum and Sistine Chappel. We probably spent about 30 minutes in St. Peters altho you could stay as long as you liked after the tour (it closed at 6:00pm).
On Day 2, we took the Naples and Pompeii tour (225 E each plus 16.50 E admission fees). We met our Rome guide at the train station who gave us our tickets and literally put us on the 7:45 am ES train (first class) to Naples. Get to the train station early becuz the meeting point is a little tricky to find. Two hours later we arrived in Naples where the Context Rome guide met us as we got off the train. She and a private driver then drove us 20 minutes to Pompeii for a fascinating tour. The afternoon was supposed to be spent touring the Archeological Museum where all the "good" stuff from Pompeii has been moved to protect it from the elements, but Air Italia was having a one day sickout/strike which somehow affected the museum workers. So no museum for us. But that probably worked out for the best because our guide, who lives in Naples, took us on a city tour which was fantastic, especially considering the beautiful weather. Ira is right, the Cappella Sanservo Museum (Via F. De Santis 19 at the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) is not to be missed if you have any appreciation for sculptures. Then we caught the 5:30 ES back to Rome.
On Day 3, we did the Roma Antica tour in the morning which covers Palatine Hill, the forum and the Collosseum (60E each plus 8E fee to Colloseum). Just a great, informative tour that went about 75 minutes over the alloted time and the guide didn't care. The tour ends at the Colloseum and our hotel had recommended a place for lunch nearby which turned out to be terrific -- Ostaria de Nerone, Via della Terme di Tito 96. Sat outside and had a delightful lunch with an American couple from the tour who are living in Norway.
That afternoon, we walked past the Victor Emanuel statue only to find it being protected by 100+ police in riot gear. The street in front of it had been shut off and lots of people were standing around as if something was about to happen. There were camera crews as well. Turns out there was to be an Iraqi war protest by a group known to be violent. We didn't stick around but apparently it was non-violent.
On Day 4, we attended Palm Sunday service in a beautiful and historic church near the hotel, Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. Like so many buildings in Italy, it doesn't look like much from the outside... It's near the train station if you're in the area. Then we took a cab to Gianicolo Hill for a beautiful panoramic lookout over Rome and then walked to Travestere for more sights and lunch. We then hopped a cab and headed to the Borghese Gallery for our Context Rome tour at 3:00pm which was excellant (35E plus 8.5E admittance fee). The Gallery limits everyone, regardless of whether you are on a tour, to a 2 hour visit which isn't enough time. Also, if you do this tour with Context Rome, double check the meeting point for the guide. The brochure gave 2 locations and the other people that were supposed to be in our group never found us.
Restaurants:
For lunch, we usually grabbed pizza somewhere which was uniformly delicious and/or gelato. Near the Trevi Fountain we found great gelato at Valentino's which was our favorite. It's at Via del Lavatore 96 (www.gelateriavalentino.com) They have an amaretto which is superb. We couldn't find that flavor anywhere else altho I'm sure it exists.
For dinners, we found moderately priced restaurants featuring fresh food and plenty of locals. All were very, very good with friendly, helpful waiters. We walked to them all: Trattoria da Armando al Pantheon, Salita de Crescenzi 31 -- near the Pantheon, 58E with a bottle of wine, everything was great; La Tartaruga, Via del Monte della Farina 53, this place was hard to find but worth it; it's in the Campo de Fiori area, just south of Victor Emanuel Blvd, halfway down some the street/alley. Artichoke pasta and swordfish appetizers, stuffed veal and grouper for the main meal and a bottle of wine for 84E; Ristorante Ditirambo, Piazza Cancelleria 74, also in the Piazza de Fiori area, 63E with a bottle of wine: for appetizers, lasanga unlike any I've had (flat and tasty) and a goat cheese pasta, which was my wife's favorite on the whole trip(interestingly, she's not a foodie and didn't understand why I would say prior to the trip that I planned to eat my way thru Italy; but right about now, into her 4th fabulous dinner, she figured it out!) and for the main meal, monkfish, which was just ok, and duck which was terrific.
Next: Tuscany
Hotel: We stayed at the Daphne Inn Veneto (www.daphne-rome.com) located a half block north of the Piazza Barberini. With a bathroom in the room we paid 144 E per nite cash (or 160 E with a credit card). This place is incredible. Small hotel with maybe 10 rooms on 4 floors. The owners, Alessandro and his American wife, Elyssa, are hands on and together with their perfect english speaking staff, offer hospitality that is absolutely first rate. They aim to please and boy do they. No wonder this place is at or near the top on Trip Advisor (under B&Bs). They make a point of sitting down with you the first day to give you a map and to make suggestions on what to see and do. And they are in no hurry to do so. They give you a cell phone and only charge you for the minutes used. The phone really came in handy on a couple of occasions. Our room and bathroom were large, air conditioned, and quiet with a very comfortable bed. There is free internet service and a terrific breakfast which includes meats and cheese. The Daphne Veneto has an elevator. (Their sister property, the Daphne Trevi, does not.) All the necessary transportation (metro, taxi, and bus) is within a block. The location is fairly central to all the main sights in Rome: the Pantheon is maybe a 10 minute walk; the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Borghese Gardens are a 15 minute walk; the Piazza Novona is a 20 minute walk; and the Colleseum is probably 45 minutes and the Vatican probably 60 minutes or so. The Via Veneto starts at the Piazza Barberini. The hotel's recommendations for restaurants and sightseeing were terrrific. All in all, a great, great value. We will stay there again.
Sightseeing: We had 4 days of sunshine, nary a cloud to be seen, with temps in the mid to upper 60s. We used Context Rome for 4 tours and were very pleased with all of them. They aren't cheap but the small group format (maximum 6 per tour) allowed for a lot of Q & A which we really like. Plus there is no trouble hearing. The guides all speak very good english, have or are getting advanced degrees in their topics, and have a passion for their subjects.
On Day 1, we did the Vatican/St. Peters tour (60 E each plus entry fee to Vatican museum of 12 E each) from 1:00- 4:00 and managed to stay awake and alert thanks to a diet coke (or coke "light" as they're called there) 30 minutes in! Most of the time was spent visiting the museum and Sistine Chappel. We probably spent about 30 minutes in St. Peters altho you could stay as long as you liked after the tour (it closed at 6:00pm).
On Day 2, we took the Naples and Pompeii tour (225 E each plus 16.50 E admission fees). We met our Rome guide at the train station who gave us our tickets and literally put us on the 7:45 am ES train (first class) to Naples. Get to the train station early becuz the meeting point is a little tricky to find. Two hours later we arrived in Naples where the Context Rome guide met us as we got off the train. She and a private driver then drove us 20 minutes to Pompeii for a fascinating tour. The afternoon was supposed to be spent touring the Archeological Museum where all the "good" stuff from Pompeii has been moved to protect it from the elements, but Air Italia was having a one day sickout/strike which somehow affected the museum workers. So no museum for us. But that probably worked out for the best because our guide, who lives in Naples, took us on a city tour which was fantastic, especially considering the beautiful weather. Ira is right, the Cappella Sanservo Museum (Via F. De Santis 19 at the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) is not to be missed if you have any appreciation for sculptures. Then we caught the 5:30 ES back to Rome.
On Day 3, we did the Roma Antica tour in the morning which covers Palatine Hill, the forum and the Collosseum (60E each plus 8E fee to Colloseum). Just a great, informative tour that went about 75 minutes over the alloted time and the guide didn't care. The tour ends at the Colloseum and our hotel had recommended a place for lunch nearby which turned out to be terrific -- Ostaria de Nerone, Via della Terme di Tito 96. Sat outside and had a delightful lunch with an American couple from the tour who are living in Norway.
That afternoon, we walked past the Victor Emanuel statue only to find it being protected by 100+ police in riot gear. The street in front of it had been shut off and lots of people were standing around as if something was about to happen. There were camera crews as well. Turns out there was to be an Iraqi war protest by a group known to be violent. We didn't stick around but apparently it was non-violent.
On Day 4, we attended Palm Sunday service in a beautiful and historic church near the hotel, Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. Like so many buildings in Italy, it doesn't look like much from the outside... It's near the train station if you're in the area. Then we took a cab to Gianicolo Hill for a beautiful panoramic lookout over Rome and then walked to Travestere for more sights and lunch. We then hopped a cab and headed to the Borghese Gallery for our Context Rome tour at 3:00pm which was excellant (35E plus 8.5E admittance fee). The Gallery limits everyone, regardless of whether you are on a tour, to a 2 hour visit which isn't enough time. Also, if you do this tour with Context Rome, double check the meeting point for the guide. The brochure gave 2 locations and the other people that were supposed to be in our group never found us.
Restaurants:
For lunch, we usually grabbed pizza somewhere which was uniformly delicious and/or gelato. Near the Trevi Fountain we found great gelato at Valentino's which was our favorite. It's at Via del Lavatore 96 (www.gelateriavalentino.com) They have an amaretto which is superb. We couldn't find that flavor anywhere else altho I'm sure it exists.
For dinners, we found moderately priced restaurants featuring fresh food and plenty of locals. All were very, very good with friendly, helpful waiters. We walked to them all: Trattoria da Armando al Pantheon, Salita de Crescenzi 31 -- near the Pantheon, 58E with a bottle of wine, everything was great; La Tartaruga, Via del Monte della Farina 53, this place was hard to find but worth it; it's in the Campo de Fiori area, just south of Victor Emanuel Blvd, halfway down some the street/alley. Artichoke pasta and swordfish appetizers, stuffed veal and grouper for the main meal and a bottle of wine for 84E; Ristorante Ditirambo, Piazza Cancelleria 74, also in the Piazza de Fiori area, 63E with a bottle of wine: for appetizers, lasanga unlike any I've had (flat and tasty) and a goat cheese pasta, which was my wife's favorite on the whole trip(interestingly, she's not a foodie and didn't understand why I would say prior to the trip that I planned to eat my way thru Italy; but right about now, into her 4th fabulous dinner, she figured it out!) and for the main meal, monkfish, which was just ok, and duck which was terrific.
Next: Tuscany
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Apr 3rd, 2005, 09:28 PM
#9
Tuscany/Florence
Day 5: We decided to splurge on a private driver/guide to take us from Rome to Florence with a stopover in Siena. Based on a few Fodorite reviews, we went with Luca Garrapa (www.hillsandroads.com). Turned out to be an excellent choice. He's 35, educated, clean cut, non-smoker, very personable, on time, grew up in Tuscany (lives near Siena) and knows the area and its sights very well, and multi-lingual with very good english. He has been doing this business for 5 years. He just purchased a new Renault SUV for his clients and is taking on an associate to help with the work load. He had the best rates of the 6 others I looked into and prepayment was not required. He does not take credit cards though. Cash or euro travellers checks only. He will suggest itineraries but your input is always welcome. He promptly responded to my numerous emails. He will set up lunch and winery tours if requested.
He picked us up at the Daphne Veneto promptly at 9:00 am and off we went. It was another gorgeous day. We visited Orvieto where we had lunch at a great spot, Hostaria Nonnamel, via del Duomo 25. The Duomo there is extraordinary. Then on to Pienza and Montalcino for visits. Charming towns. And the scenery getting there was darn nice too! Outside of Montalcino, we had a wine tour and tasting at 5:00pm at the Brunello winery. Very worthwhile. Picked up some fresh extra virgin olive oil. Then to Siena where we arrived at 8:00pm. Luca's fee for the day was 400E.
In Siena, we stayed at the charming and historic Palazzo Ravizza in a huge room which overlooked the garden and outside wall. Bathroom was also very large. Room was furnished with antiques. Used to be a palace. Has been in the same family for several hundred years now. Be sure to ask the front desk for a copy of its history. We highly recommend this hotel.
For dinner, we headed to Osteria le Logge, via del Porrione 33, just off the Piazza del Campo, where we had a fabulous meal. The Florentine steak melted in my mouth. But the best part was joining a table with 2 gentleman from Norway who were leading some senior citizens on a week tour of Tuscany. One was a scholar in classic Greek and early Rome and the other was a translator and radio actor. Terrific discussion about all kinds of things, including religion, with 2 very learned, open minded and wise men.
Day 6 started with a great breakfast in the hotel, featuring eggs, bacon, meats, sheep's cheese (which is local favorite and very tasty), breads, fruits, pastries, etc. Then we tried to walk off breakfast by exploring Siena for a couple of hours. We could have easily spent the day there. Luca picked us up at noon and took the old Roman Road to Monteriggioni for a quick look around and then to Volterra where we had pizza by the slice at La Mangiatoria, via Gramsci 33, which was very good, looked around the town, and bought some alabaster, which the town is known for. The sun was still shining, making the scenery getting to these towns all the more beautiful. At 5:00 we had a wine tasting at Tenuta Torciano and ended up buying 15 bottles which will be shipped to us from their Chicago distribution center. Prices ranged from 18E to 36E which includes the shipping. We also bought a small bottle of truffle flavored olive oil.
Then on to Florence where we arrived at 7:30pm and sadly bid our new friend farewell. Luca really was terrific. His fee for the second day was 170E.
We stayed at the Hotel Davanzati in the heart of the Florence near the Ponte Vecchio (www.hoteldavanzati.it). Lovely place. Fabrizio is the owner and he is the kind of guy who would give you the shirt off his back. He is hospitable to the max, friendly, charming and funny. Excellent english. He insisted on serving us complimentary Italin sparkling wine and some appetizers. His whole family runs the place and they are all very, very nice. There is free internet access and a very good breakfast with meats, cheese, fruit, etc. Our room was very large as was the bathroom. To get to the hotel lobby, you must go up a set of 15-20 steps or so and then take the elevator up one story. If hauling your luggage up the steps is a problem, Fabrizio and his staff will gladly do it for you. The room was fairly quiet although I did hear some noise the first nite. Nevertheless, we recommend this hotel and can see why it is so highly rated on Trip Advisor.
For dinner, we passed. We had been eating so much and so well that we gave our bellies a rest, altho I did eventually sneak out for a chocolate gelato.
Day 7 was spent taking the "Florence in One Day" tour with the Artviva touring company (www.artviva.com), consisting of 3 tours (94E per person for all tours, including entrance fees). Each tour was very worthwhile. These are small group tours where the limit appeared to be 20 people per guide. The first tour was a 3 hour walk with Freya as our guide beginning at 9:15am. She's a transplanted Aussie and was great. Then an hour and half break.
For lunch, we took the recommendation of the hotel and Freya and got some great sandwiches at a great price (2-3E each!) at Fratelini's which is a favorite with the locals. It's a very small take out place located midway between the Ponte Vecchio and the Duomo on via dei Cimatori just off the via dei Calzaiuoli.
The second tour was a 2 hour visit of the Uffizi Gallery. We received headsets/receivers to hear our guide in the museum. They worked well. Then another hour plus break for some shopping. My wife's B-day was coming up so off to the jewelry stores! Actually, we only went to one. Freya recommended "Oro Due", via Lambertesca 12 (near the Uffizi) where she shops. They weigh the gold. I found 3 sets of gold earrings and a gold cross for her. Then she went next door to "Nevada" for some Italian made scarfs and another B-day purchase was made.
Our third and final tour was of the Academy to see the David. It lasted an hour, most of which was spent outside the Academy hearing about Michelangelo. There isn't much to see in the Academy other than the famous statue. But it's definitely worth seeing.
For dinner, I was very tempted to go to Il Ritrovo per Ira's recommendation for our only dinner in Florence. I discussed that option with Fabrizio but he steered us to 13 Gobbi instead, via die Porcellana 13. He'd been right about everything else so off we went. I obviously can't compare the two, but we were very satisfied with 13 Gobbi. Romantic dining room with very friendly and helpful waiters. The food was very good as well. My wife and I had a couple of filling appetizers and first courses and ended up splitting a 20 oz steak for the main course. Not as tender as the one in Siena though. Total came to 76E with a bottle of wine. Ira, we'll try Il Ritrovo next time.
Next: Venice
Dave
Day 5: We decided to splurge on a private driver/guide to take us from Rome to Florence with a stopover in Siena. Based on a few Fodorite reviews, we went with Luca Garrapa (www.hillsandroads.com). Turned out to be an excellent choice. He's 35, educated, clean cut, non-smoker, very personable, on time, grew up in Tuscany (lives near Siena) and knows the area and its sights very well, and multi-lingual with very good english. He has been doing this business for 5 years. He just purchased a new Renault SUV for his clients and is taking on an associate to help with the work load. He had the best rates of the 6 others I looked into and prepayment was not required. He does not take credit cards though. Cash or euro travellers checks only. He will suggest itineraries but your input is always welcome. He promptly responded to my numerous emails. He will set up lunch and winery tours if requested.
He picked us up at the Daphne Veneto promptly at 9:00 am and off we went. It was another gorgeous day. We visited Orvieto where we had lunch at a great spot, Hostaria Nonnamel, via del Duomo 25. The Duomo there is extraordinary. Then on to Pienza and Montalcino for visits. Charming towns. And the scenery getting there was darn nice too! Outside of Montalcino, we had a wine tour and tasting at 5:00pm at the Brunello winery. Very worthwhile. Picked up some fresh extra virgin olive oil. Then to Siena where we arrived at 8:00pm. Luca's fee for the day was 400E.
In Siena, we stayed at the charming and historic Palazzo Ravizza in a huge room which overlooked the garden and outside wall. Bathroom was also very large. Room was furnished with antiques. Used to be a palace. Has been in the same family for several hundred years now. Be sure to ask the front desk for a copy of its history. We highly recommend this hotel.
For dinner, we headed to Osteria le Logge, via del Porrione 33, just off the Piazza del Campo, where we had a fabulous meal. The Florentine steak melted in my mouth. But the best part was joining a table with 2 gentleman from Norway who were leading some senior citizens on a week tour of Tuscany. One was a scholar in classic Greek and early Rome and the other was a translator and radio actor. Terrific discussion about all kinds of things, including religion, with 2 very learned, open minded and wise men.
Day 6 started with a great breakfast in the hotel, featuring eggs, bacon, meats, sheep's cheese (which is local favorite and very tasty), breads, fruits, pastries, etc. Then we tried to walk off breakfast by exploring Siena for a couple of hours. We could have easily spent the day there. Luca picked us up at noon and took the old Roman Road to Monteriggioni for a quick look around and then to Volterra where we had pizza by the slice at La Mangiatoria, via Gramsci 33, which was very good, looked around the town, and bought some alabaster, which the town is known for. The sun was still shining, making the scenery getting to these towns all the more beautiful. At 5:00 we had a wine tasting at Tenuta Torciano and ended up buying 15 bottles which will be shipped to us from their Chicago distribution center. Prices ranged from 18E to 36E which includes the shipping. We also bought a small bottle of truffle flavored olive oil.
Then on to Florence where we arrived at 7:30pm and sadly bid our new friend farewell. Luca really was terrific. His fee for the second day was 170E.
We stayed at the Hotel Davanzati in the heart of the Florence near the Ponte Vecchio (www.hoteldavanzati.it). Lovely place. Fabrizio is the owner and he is the kind of guy who would give you the shirt off his back. He is hospitable to the max, friendly, charming and funny. Excellent english. He insisted on serving us complimentary Italin sparkling wine and some appetizers. His whole family runs the place and they are all very, very nice. There is free internet access and a very good breakfast with meats, cheese, fruit, etc. Our room was very large as was the bathroom. To get to the hotel lobby, you must go up a set of 15-20 steps or so and then take the elevator up one story. If hauling your luggage up the steps is a problem, Fabrizio and his staff will gladly do it for you. The room was fairly quiet although I did hear some noise the first nite. Nevertheless, we recommend this hotel and can see why it is so highly rated on Trip Advisor.
For dinner, we passed. We had been eating so much and so well that we gave our bellies a rest, altho I did eventually sneak out for a chocolate gelato.
Day 7 was spent taking the "Florence in One Day" tour with the Artviva touring company (www.artviva.com), consisting of 3 tours (94E per person for all tours, including entrance fees). Each tour was very worthwhile. These are small group tours where the limit appeared to be 20 people per guide. The first tour was a 3 hour walk with Freya as our guide beginning at 9:15am. She's a transplanted Aussie and was great. Then an hour and half break.
For lunch, we took the recommendation of the hotel and Freya and got some great sandwiches at a great price (2-3E each!) at Fratelini's which is a favorite with the locals. It's a very small take out place located midway between the Ponte Vecchio and the Duomo on via dei Cimatori just off the via dei Calzaiuoli.
The second tour was a 2 hour visit of the Uffizi Gallery. We received headsets/receivers to hear our guide in the museum. They worked well. Then another hour plus break for some shopping. My wife's B-day was coming up so off to the jewelry stores! Actually, we only went to one. Freya recommended "Oro Due", via Lambertesca 12 (near the Uffizi) where she shops. They weigh the gold. I found 3 sets of gold earrings and a gold cross for her. Then she went next door to "Nevada" for some Italian made scarfs and another B-day purchase was made.
Our third and final tour was of the Academy to see the David. It lasted an hour, most of which was spent outside the Academy hearing about Michelangelo. There isn't much to see in the Academy other than the famous statue. But it's definitely worth seeing.
For dinner, I was very tempted to go to Il Ritrovo per Ira's recommendation for our only dinner in Florence. I discussed that option with Fabrizio but he steered us to 13 Gobbi instead, via die Porcellana 13. He'd been right about everything else so off we went. I obviously can't compare the two, but we were very satisfied with 13 Gobbi. Romantic dining room with very friendly and helpful waiters. The food was very good as well. My wife and I had a couple of filling appetizers and first courses and ended up splitting a 20 oz steak for the main course. Not as tender as the one in Siena though. Total came to 76E with a bottle of wine. Ira, we'll try Il Ritrovo next time.
Next: Venice
Dave
Apr 4th, 2005, 09:54 AM
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dcd, great travel report. I can't wait to hear about Venice. I leave end of june to hike in Dolomites and then a week in Venice.
Sounds like the ATM card is the way to go. I'm a little nervous about it, tho. I only have one card.
Sounds like the ATM card is the way to go. I'm a little nervous about it, tho. I only have one card.
Apr 4th, 2005, 10:00 AM
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Really enjoying this trip report, thank you! I, too, like your writing style and am so glad you enjoyed your trip.
It was a nice bonus for me to find out that you liked the Daphne Inn so much. We are booked there next month (thanks to the advice of folks on this board!).
It was a nice bonus for me to find out that you liked the Daphne Inn so much. We are booked there next month (thanks to the advice of folks on this board!).
