Trip Report: 3-day whirlwind tour of SW England
Jun 1st, 2005, 04:56 AM
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Trip Report: 3-day whirlwind tour of SW England
This is going to be a long report of a short trip. If you want to know about Bristol, Devon, Cornwall, driving in SW England, Continental Airline's new Bristol service, then read on...
<b>Fri, May 27, 2005</b>
Almost missed my flight EWR-BRS. My incoming flight from DFW was delayed for about 45 minutes, and then air traffic control put us on hold for another 10. Reduced my 1:03 connection time to, well, about zero. But made it, and with no checked bags, no problem with those missing the connection.
I was on only the 9th flight on this route, which inauguated 5/19. CO now uses the 757-200 on many thinner European routes, and this is <b>the worst</b> aircraft to fly across the Atlantic. 150+ economy seats with just one aisle, no personal video screens, limited overhead luggage room. Fortunately, the outbound flight was only about 30% full, and I laid down on three seats to get about a 2.5-hr nap on this 6 hour flight. Food on Continental's international service is actually <b>getting better</b>. Pot roast tastes good.
BTW, the reason I took this flight is that CO is having a sale. Only 25K miles for roundtrip from US to Bristol or Belfast. The offer is still available, but trip must complete by 6/14. Tax is about $90.
<b>Sat, May 28, 2005</b>
Breakfast is very light, just a croissant. We flew a very southerly route across the Atlantic, barely touching the southern tip of Ireland, and then fly straight east along the Bristol Channel into Bristol. From my seat on the right-hand side, I saw the very beautiful cliffs of the Devon coast. Also saw a town in an estuary that drops into the water. Very scenic. I'll visit that place later the day...
The pilot mentioned <b>strong gust</b> of 30knots at BRS at least twice to us, preparing us for a rough landing. And that's what we got. We landed East-to-West on single runway (27 in our case), which is not flat. The first 3/4 is uphill, and then last 1/4 is downhill. The airport is built on the top of a ridge - so no wonder that's gusting winds! Single modern terminal, but no jetway, so we took the steps down. Immigration has all but two lines, but with only about 70 passengers, I got through quickly, even if I was the last in line, and the British officer asked a few questions to each non-UK/EU passenger.
Rental car offices is located in a seperate building down a series of ramps or steps from the terminal. I paid ~US$133 for the three day (72hrs) rental from autoeurope.com for a "economy manual no-air", but receive a guaranteed upgrade to "compact manual no-air". But at the Europcar (the actual agent they use in my reservation), then upgrade me again to "intermediate manual A/C". So, double upgrade - which has its own little downside that I'd find out later.
The car I got is a Renault Megane Scenic, with an upgraded 1.6L, 115hp gas engine. It's well equipped with fog lights, height adjustable headlights, and even sunshades built into the rear doors. It's a tall 5-door, which is about the size of the Toyota Matrix sold here in the US.
BRS is only 10 miles from Bristol center, but no rail connection, and the road is a narrow two-lane with about 15 roundabouts enroute. A bus runs from airport to Temple Meads train station every 20 minutes, journey time 30 minutes, which I think is representative.
But I left the airport the other way, heading southwest.
To be continued...
<b>Fri, May 27, 2005</b>
Almost missed my flight EWR-BRS. My incoming flight from DFW was delayed for about 45 minutes, and then air traffic control put us on hold for another 10. Reduced my 1:03 connection time to, well, about zero. But made it, and with no checked bags, no problem with those missing the connection.
I was on only the 9th flight on this route, which inauguated 5/19. CO now uses the 757-200 on many thinner European routes, and this is <b>the worst</b> aircraft to fly across the Atlantic. 150+ economy seats with just one aisle, no personal video screens, limited overhead luggage room. Fortunately, the outbound flight was only about 30% full, and I laid down on three seats to get about a 2.5-hr nap on this 6 hour flight. Food on Continental's international service is actually <b>getting better</b>. Pot roast tastes good.
BTW, the reason I took this flight is that CO is having a sale. Only 25K miles for roundtrip from US to Bristol or Belfast. The offer is still available, but trip must complete by 6/14. Tax is about $90.
<b>Sat, May 28, 2005</b>
Breakfast is very light, just a croissant. We flew a very southerly route across the Atlantic, barely touching the southern tip of Ireland, and then fly straight east along the Bristol Channel into Bristol. From my seat on the right-hand side, I saw the very beautiful cliffs of the Devon coast. Also saw a town in an estuary that drops into the water. Very scenic. I'll visit that place later the day...
The pilot mentioned <b>strong gust</b> of 30knots at BRS at least twice to us, preparing us for a rough landing. And that's what we got. We landed East-to-West on single runway (27 in our case), which is not flat. The first 3/4 is uphill, and then last 1/4 is downhill. The airport is built on the top of a ridge - so no wonder that's gusting winds! Single modern terminal, but no jetway, so we took the steps down. Immigration has all but two lines, but with only about 70 passengers, I got through quickly, even if I was the last in line, and the British officer asked a few questions to each non-UK/EU passenger.
Rental car offices is located in a seperate building down a series of ramps or steps from the terminal. I paid ~US$133 for the three day (72hrs) rental from autoeurope.com for a "economy manual no-air", but receive a guaranteed upgrade to "compact manual no-air". But at the Europcar (the actual agent they use in my reservation), then upgrade me again to "intermediate manual A/C". So, double upgrade - which has its own little downside that I'd find out later.
The car I got is a Renault Megane Scenic, with an upgraded 1.6L, 115hp gas engine. It's well equipped with fog lights, height adjustable headlights, and even sunshades built into the rear doors. It's a tall 5-door, which is about the size of the Toyota Matrix sold here in the US.
BRS is only 10 miles from Bristol center, but no rail connection, and the road is a narrow two-lane with about 15 roundabouts enroute. A bus runs from airport to Temple Meads train station every 20 minutes, journey time 30 minutes, which I think is representative.
But I left the airport the other way, heading southwest.
To be continued...
Jun 1st, 2005, 05:43 AM
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rkkwan, I look forward to your report as I'll be heading that way this summer. I noticed on bft that you got a winning bid at the Marriott in Bristol. I'm getting ready to bid on that as well so I look forward to your impressions.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Jun 1st, 2005, 11:05 AM
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kopp - I just wrote a review on Trip Advisor, but that may take a while before they actually post it. But I basically agree with the previous reviews. It's a decent 4* hotel with nice rooms. Not the most centrally located, but Bristol is pretty small so you can get to "town center" in a few minutes on foot, past the Castle Park.
For the price I paid, it's definitely worth bidding. Parking is 7.5GBP per day in the garage next door.
Will continue my report in a moment...
For the price I paid, it's definitely worth bidding. Parking is 7.5GBP per day in the garage next door.
Will continue my report in a moment...
Jun 1st, 2005, 11:50 AM
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Heading Southwest from the airport, I took highway A38 down to Bridgwater. I could have jumped onto M5 for one exit, but the motorway was like a giant parking lot. Turned out it was long weekend in the UK too, as Monday 5/30 was a bank holiday. Lots of people are heading to Southwest England, and M5 is the only "fast" way. I then head west on A39. Traffic is also quite heavy through many resort towns - until pass Minehead.
Now, I have driven in the UK before, and driving on the left hasn't been a problem. The problem, however, is the narrowness of the roadway. Through towns like Minehead where many cars are parked on the street, often only one vehicle can pass - not one for each direction, but one for BOTH direction.
After Minehead, the road rises into the Exmoor National Park in Devon. The landscape is quite similar to western Ireland, which I'll find more or less the same all the way to Land's End in Cornwall along the NW coast. The road is on a plateau, and the Bristol Channel is a staight cliff down, about 300 feet.
And then suddenly, the road drops down the side of the cliff, the steepest part being 1:4, with multiple runaway ramps. [1:10 is already pretty steep.] And I arrived at the very picturesque Lynmouth, the town that I caught a glimpse of, from the plane about 4 hours earlier. Lynmouth is where the Lyn river empties into sea from the Exmoor forest. It's just a small harbor with hotels, restaurants and shops. It's connected by a tramway to the town up the cliff called Lynton. I had fish (haddock) and chips for lunch in Lynmouth.
[I later learned that a terrible flood in 1952 virtually washed away the whole town. 12 people died, and 24 other went missing.]
After lunch, I continued on A39 towards SW, the road now called the Atlantic Highway.
To be continued...
Now, I have driven in the UK before, and driving on the left hasn't been a problem. The problem, however, is the narrowness of the roadway. Through towns like Minehead where many cars are parked on the street, often only one vehicle can pass - not one for each direction, but one for BOTH direction.
After Minehead, the road rises into the Exmoor National Park in Devon. The landscape is quite similar to western Ireland, which I'll find more or less the same all the way to Land's End in Cornwall along the NW coast. The road is on a plateau, and the Bristol Channel is a staight cliff down, about 300 feet.
And then suddenly, the road drops down the side of the cliff, the steepest part being 1:4, with multiple runaway ramps. [1:10 is already pretty steep.] And I arrived at the very picturesque Lynmouth, the town that I caught a glimpse of, from the plane about 4 hours earlier. Lynmouth is where the Lyn river empties into sea from the Exmoor forest. It's just a small harbor with hotels, restaurants and shops. It's connected by a tramway to the town up the cliff called Lynton. I had fish (haddock) and chips for lunch in Lynmouth.
[I later learned that a terrible flood in 1952 virtually washed away the whole town. 12 people died, and 24 other went missing.]
After lunch, I continued on A39 towards SW, the road now called the Atlantic Highway.
To be continued...
Jun 1st, 2005, 05:05 PM
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I was heading SW towards Cornwall when I saw a road sign for <b>Hartland Lighthouse</b>. I love lighthouses, and they are often situated at scenic spots, so I made a quick right turn towards the coast.
The 4 mile drive is on an <b>one lane</b> road. Now, it was a huge rush for the rally-driver-wannabe inside me. I was going 50+ on straights, 30-40mph around blind curves, and had to stomp on the brakes if you see oncoming traffic.
The lighthouse is now private property which is closed to the public, and there's a small parking charge to get to the coast. But WHAT A VIEW of the cliff and the lighthouse from the coastal footpath. Absolutely amazing. Hartland marks the end of the Bristol Channel between England and Wales, and the beginning of the Atlantic.
It's now tea time and there's a small kiosk that has <b>cream tea</b> for only £2. Many of you may know what it is already, but I didn't. But it's English tea, with a scone served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. I later found out that it's available at every tea house in Devon and Cornwall in the afternoon, usually around £3.50 with two scones instead of one. [And even on Continental Airlines coming back!] The clotted cream looks very artery-clogging, but in fact is quite light. Really really good. Also bought a jar of real homemade orange marmalade. Real because it didn't even have a label. £1.75 is cheaper than any marmalade you can find here at Whole Food.
Continue SW, I left Devon and into <b>Cornwall</b>. People there consider themselves Cornish and not English. Many signs have Cornish in addition to English, and many places fly the white cross-on-black Cornish flag; not the Union Jack or England's St. George's Cross. They have Cornish pastries, Cornish ice-cream, Cornish cream tea, Cornish game hen, Cornish ale, Cornish mead, etc... Almost like another country.
So, I arrived at one of the biggest attraction in SW England, the <b>Tintagel Castle</b>. It's actually a ruin of a castle built in the 13th Century, 600 years after the time of King Arthur, where the legend says he was born.
I arrived too late to justify paying the £3.90 admission, so I just hiked around and above it. Again, the vista is incredible. It's a English Heritage site, so pass holders get in free.
It was getting late, but the B&Bs in Tintagel have few vacancies during the holiday weekend. I decided to drive on, thinking, correctly, that I could find better accomodations in less touristy towns.
So, 15 miles later, I found myself in the town of <b>Wadebridge</b>. Along A39, across the Royal Cornwall Showground (think "state fairground"
was a small house with a "vacancy" sign. I was welcomed by a nice family who has 3 rooms for rent. Called the Tor View, for its view of Bodmin Moor, the tallest peaks of Cornwall, as well as another hill with electricity generating windmills like those in the California desert. Except it's all green in Cornwall, not brown.
For dinner, I headed to a local pub and inn, the Slades House. Pubs are where you can find the best food at a reasonable price in many towns of Britain. Great lamb chops for ~£8, which is cheaper than in the US. The local brew, <b>Tribute</b>, is an excellent ale that's flavorful but has a relatively low alcohol content of 4.2%. It seems like that's the only thing Cornish people drink... almost.
To be continued...
The 4 mile drive is on an <b>one lane</b> road. Now, it was a huge rush for the rally-driver-wannabe inside me. I was going 50+ on straights, 30-40mph around blind curves, and had to stomp on the brakes if you see oncoming traffic.
The lighthouse is now private property which is closed to the public, and there's a small parking charge to get to the coast. But WHAT A VIEW of the cliff and the lighthouse from the coastal footpath. Absolutely amazing. Hartland marks the end of the Bristol Channel between England and Wales, and the beginning of the Atlantic.
It's now tea time and there's a small kiosk that has <b>cream tea</b> for only £2. Many of you may know what it is already, but I didn't. But it's English tea, with a scone served with clotted cream and strawberry jam. I later found out that it's available at every tea house in Devon and Cornwall in the afternoon, usually around £3.50 with two scones instead of one. [And even on Continental Airlines coming back!] The clotted cream looks very artery-clogging, but in fact is quite light. Really really good. Also bought a jar of real homemade orange marmalade. Real because it didn't even have a label. £1.75 is cheaper than any marmalade you can find here at Whole Food.
Continue SW, I left Devon and into <b>Cornwall</b>. People there consider themselves Cornish and not English. Many signs have Cornish in addition to English, and many places fly the white cross-on-black Cornish flag; not the Union Jack or England's St. George's Cross. They have Cornish pastries, Cornish ice-cream, Cornish cream tea, Cornish game hen, Cornish ale, Cornish mead, etc... Almost like another country.
So, I arrived at one of the biggest attraction in SW England, the <b>Tintagel Castle</b>. It's actually a ruin of a castle built in the 13th Century, 600 years after the time of King Arthur, where the legend says he was born.
I arrived too late to justify paying the £3.90 admission, so I just hiked around and above it. Again, the vista is incredible. It's a English Heritage site, so pass holders get in free.
It was getting late, but the B&Bs in Tintagel have few vacancies during the holiday weekend. I decided to drive on, thinking, correctly, that I could find better accomodations in less touristy towns.
So, 15 miles later, I found myself in the town of <b>Wadebridge</b>. Along A39, across the Royal Cornwall Showground (think "state fairground"
was a small house with a "vacancy" sign. I was welcomed by a nice family who has 3 rooms for rent. Called the Tor View, for its view of Bodmin Moor, the tallest peaks of Cornwall, as well as another hill with electricity generating windmills like those in the California desert. Except it's all green in Cornwall, not brown.For dinner, I headed to a local pub and inn, the Slades House. Pubs are where you can find the best food at a reasonable price in many towns of Britain. Great lamb chops for ~£8, which is cheaper than in the US. The local brew, <b>Tribute</b>, is an excellent ale that's flavorful but has a relatively low alcohol content of 4.2%. It seems like that's the only thing Cornish people drink... almost.
To be continued...
Jun 2nd, 2005, 04:54 AM
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<b>Sun, May 29, 2005</b>
Had a traditional English breakfast at the B&B - toast, tea, eggs, mushrooms, bacon, sausage, tomato. Had a good chat with the other 3 people staying at the B&B and the owner. One of them is a banker from London who drives a BMW, who's visiting his 8-year old son for the weekend. The son lives with his ex-girlfriend. Nice fellow that loves America.
Headed out at around 9:30am. A39 runs into A30, a mostly dual-carriageway, so it didn't take long to get to the seaside town of <b>St. Ives</b>. This place looks like a small fishing village on the Mediterranean, which is quite unique in the UK; but was totally overrun by vacationers. Absolutely no place to park in town, or even within 20 minutes walk to town. I said forget it, and then got on B3306 towards Land's End.
I was now on the Penwith Peninsula, which is the last 20 miles of SW England. This area is littered with Iron-age artifacts - lots of rock arrangements, and is very popular with hikers.
This 20-mile B-road from St. Ives to Land's End is more-or-less a one-lane road, so a pretty slow going because one has to slow down, stop, or even back up, when there's on-coming traffic. I passed by quite a few tiny villages and then stopped at the <b>Geevor Tin Mine</b>. There were lots of tin and copper mines in this part of Britain, and the Geevor Mine operated until just a few years ago. I passed on the mine tour that actually brings you down the mining shaft.
Closer to Land's End are two towns that are quite quaint, and won't be bad choices for staying overnight - <b>St. Just</b> on the plateau and <b>Sennen</b> on the coast just 2 miles from Land's End. In fact, I was told later that it's a good idea to park at Sennen and hike to Land's End along the coastal footpath, and avoid the parking fees at Land's End. However, that would only work if Sennen itself wasn't packed with vacationers and if it had some place to park.
Anyways, I arrived at <b>Land's End</b> at around noon. Well, middle of the 2nd day of my 3-day trip. Right on time.
Parking was £3, but I think the rate is variable, depending on date and time.
To be continued...
Had a traditional English breakfast at the B&B - toast, tea, eggs, mushrooms, bacon, sausage, tomato. Had a good chat with the other 3 people staying at the B&B and the owner. One of them is a banker from London who drives a BMW, who's visiting his 8-year old son for the weekend. The son lives with his ex-girlfriend. Nice fellow that loves America.
Headed out at around 9:30am. A39 runs into A30, a mostly dual-carriageway, so it didn't take long to get to the seaside town of <b>St. Ives</b>. This place looks like a small fishing village on the Mediterranean, which is quite unique in the UK; but was totally overrun by vacationers. Absolutely no place to park in town, or even within 20 minutes walk to town. I said forget it, and then got on B3306 towards Land's End.
I was now on the Penwith Peninsula, which is the last 20 miles of SW England. This area is littered with Iron-age artifacts - lots of rock arrangements, and is very popular with hikers.
This 20-mile B-road from St. Ives to Land's End is more-or-less a one-lane road, so a pretty slow going because one has to slow down, stop, or even back up, when there's on-coming traffic. I passed by quite a few tiny villages and then stopped at the <b>Geevor Tin Mine</b>. There were lots of tin and copper mines in this part of Britain, and the Geevor Mine operated until just a few years ago. I passed on the mine tour that actually brings you down the mining shaft.
Closer to Land's End are two towns that are quite quaint, and won't be bad choices for staying overnight - <b>St. Just</b> on the plateau and <b>Sennen</b> on the coast just 2 miles from Land's End. In fact, I was told later that it's a good idea to park at Sennen and hike to Land's End along the coastal footpath, and avoid the parking fees at Land's End. However, that would only work if Sennen itself wasn't packed with vacationers and if it had some place to park.
Anyways, I arrived at <b>Land's End</b> at around noon. Well, middle of the 2nd day of my 3-day trip. Right on time.
Parking was £3, but I think the rate is variable, depending on date and time.To be continued...
Jun 2nd, 2005, 05:00 PM
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I was questioned by more than one Englishmen why I would go to Land's End. To me, I just need to go because it's there, at the end of the road. I'm not going to drive 250 miles from Bristol to Penzance and stopped 10 miles short of the end of the road, right?
But I understand why locals wouldn't go there. First, one needs to pay for parking, £3 on the day I was there. Second, it's a mini-theme park with tacky shows and exhibits. [There was a 20-feet tall inflatable slide for people to climb and slide down, £2.50 for 15 minutes or something like that.] Third, food is overpriced. Fourth it cost money to get your picture taken under the sign that tells you New York or elsewhere is so so miles from there - minimum £7.50.
Anyways, I didn't get my picture taken, but I did eat at the Longships Bar in the Land's End Hotel. Also had a <b>Cornish mead</b>, a fortified honey-flavored wine which I didn't really care for. The view out is stunning, on a pretty calm and sunny day. Tacky or not, I stayed there for like 2 hours.
Heading back east, I stopped at <b>Penzance</b>. It has a nice little harbor, and but I also visited the train station there. It's the end of the rail line, and I have seen a lot of pictures of trains along the seawall there. On stormy days, ocean waves can crash over the wall and cover the trains. But on this day, it was nice and quiet. Direct trains run from Penzance all the way to Glasgow, taking almost 10 hours.
About 4 miles east of Penzance, on the east end of the same bay, is Marazion. Finally, I paid admission to actually visit an attraction! The place is <b>St. Michael's Mount</b>. It's a monastery/fortress/home built on a tall island. If that sounds like Mont-St-Michel in Normandy, France, it's because it's built by the same monks. It is smaller, with fewer buildings, but it is still extremely imposing.
It was low-tide, so I walked out to the island on the causeway across the beach, and then the bay. [A little ferry is provided at high-tide.] It's free to walk out to the island, but to climb to the main building, it costs £5.50. [It's a National Trust attraction, so members and pass holders get in free.] A guide book cost another £1. The monastery became a fortress after England broke away from the Vatican; and then a private residence after the English civil war. It's a <b>must see</b> attraction in Cornwall.
But I understand why locals wouldn't go there. First, one needs to pay for parking, £3 on the day I was there. Second, it's a mini-theme park with tacky shows and exhibits. [There was a 20-feet tall inflatable slide for people to climb and slide down, £2.50 for 15 minutes or something like that.] Third, food is overpriced. Fourth it cost money to get your picture taken under the sign that tells you New York or elsewhere is so so miles from there - minimum £7.50.
Anyways, I didn't get my picture taken, but I did eat at the Longships Bar in the Land's End Hotel. Also had a <b>Cornish mead</b>, a fortified honey-flavored wine which I didn't really care for. The view out is stunning, on a pretty calm and sunny day. Tacky or not, I stayed there for like 2 hours.
Heading back east, I stopped at <b>Penzance</b>. It has a nice little harbor, and but I also visited the train station there. It's the end of the rail line, and I have seen a lot of pictures of trains along the seawall there. On stormy days, ocean waves can crash over the wall and cover the trains. But on this day, it was nice and quiet. Direct trains run from Penzance all the way to Glasgow, taking almost 10 hours.
About 4 miles east of Penzance, on the east end of the same bay, is Marazion. Finally, I paid admission to actually visit an attraction! The place is <b>St. Michael's Mount</b>. It's a monastery/fortress/home built on a tall island. If that sounds like Mont-St-Michel in Normandy, France, it's because it's built by the same monks. It is smaller, with fewer buildings, but it is still extremely imposing.
It was low-tide, so I walked out to the island on the causeway across the beach, and then the bay. [A little ferry is provided at high-tide.] It's free to walk out to the island, but to climb to the main building, it costs £5.50. [It's a National Trust attraction, so members and pass holders get in free.] A guide book cost another £1. The monastery became a fortress after England broke away from the Vatican; and then a private residence after the English civil war. It's a <b>must see</b> attraction in Cornwall.
Jun 3rd, 2005, 01:42 AM
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Great report rkkwan - I'm so glad you enjoyed this very special corner of England that isn't so much of a secret to us but more for those across the pond who tend to stick to the South East - I'm sorry you didn't get the chance to enjoy St Ives and agree that on a bank holiday weekend it can be sheer murder with the numbers of tourists although there are park and ride schemes that they use in a lot of these former fishing villages like Polperro and Mevagissey and also in St Ives there is a giant car park at the top of the hill
Agree that St Austell Ale Tribute is a stellar beer
Agree that St Austell Ale Tribute is a stellar beer
Jun 3rd, 2005, 04:45 AM
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Thanks - londonengland. I did see the satellite parking lots outside St. Ives on my way in, but I didn't want to spend that much time to take a shuttle in. On my way out towards the northwest side of town, even the lots on top of the hill are full! Amazing.
But St. Ives is really a pretty town. Next time I visit Cornwall, I'd strongly consider staying there.
---
So, I spent a total of 2+ hours at St. Michael's Mount and it's now about 6pm. Mind you at in summer time, sun rises at around 5am and sets around 9pm; so one can travel pretty late.
Heading east on A394, I arrived at the port town of <b>Falmouth</b>. They have a small harbor there, and the National Maritime Museum Cornall. It's time to look for place to stay, and there are lots of B&B in town. However, because of the Bank Holiday, a lot of them have the "no vacancies" sign; and maybe I'm picky, by those with vacancies don't look too appealing to me or have limited parking spaces.
After walking around the harbor and walking <b>around</b> the Pendennis Castle - it was way past opening time - I decided to drive on. While I love maritime museums, I don't think there's any "must see" at the one in Falmouth. It's not like the HMS Victory's there.
The next town to the east is Truro, but the few B&Bs along the main highway have no vacancies. It was already around 8:30pm, and I started to panic a little. But this is when modern technology came to the rescue. I had brought my tri-band cellphone from the US, and the rate from T-Mobile USA is okay for occassional use, at $.99/min. Wadebridge, where I stayed the night before, is only 25 minutes away, so I called Sally of the Tor View B&B. She was delighted to tell me that "my room" was still available. So, 30 minutes later, I'm back in "my room".
I wanted to try another pub, so went down to the Molesworth Arms, a large inn. It was sunday night before the holiday, and the place was lively. Seems like all the young people in the whole town, and areas around it, are there. Food is not as good as the Slades House, but still okay. And liking the <b>St Austell Tribute</b> so much the night before, that's what I drank again.
[At around midnight, TV was replaying the European Formula 1 race earlier that day. Being a race fan who starved for any car racing to watch, I stayed up till 2am to watch it...]
But St. Ives is really a pretty town. Next time I visit Cornwall, I'd strongly consider staying there.
---
So, I spent a total of 2+ hours at St. Michael's Mount and it's now about 6pm. Mind you at in summer time, sun rises at around 5am and sets around 9pm; so one can travel pretty late.
Heading east on A394, I arrived at the port town of <b>Falmouth</b>. They have a small harbor there, and the National Maritime Museum Cornall. It's time to look for place to stay, and there are lots of B&B in town. However, because of the Bank Holiday, a lot of them have the "no vacancies" sign; and maybe I'm picky, by those with vacancies don't look too appealing to me or have limited parking spaces.
After walking around the harbor and walking <b>around</b> the Pendennis Castle - it was way past opening time - I decided to drive on. While I love maritime museums, I don't think there's any "must see" at the one in Falmouth. It's not like the HMS Victory's there.
The next town to the east is Truro, but the few B&Bs along the main highway have no vacancies. It was already around 8:30pm, and I started to panic a little. But this is when modern technology came to the rescue. I had brought my tri-band cellphone from the US, and the rate from T-Mobile USA is okay for occassional use, at $.99/min. Wadebridge, where I stayed the night before, is only 25 minutes away, so I called Sally of the Tor View B&B. She was delighted to tell me that "my room" was still available. So, 30 minutes later, I'm back in "my room".
I wanted to try another pub, so went down to the Molesworth Arms, a large inn. It was sunday night before the holiday, and the place was lively. Seems like all the young people in the whole town, and areas around it, are there. Food is not as good as the Slades House, but still okay. And liking the <b>St Austell Tribute</b> so much the night before, that's what I drank again.
[At around midnight, TV was replaying the European Formula 1 race earlier that day. Being a race fan who starved for any car racing to watch, I stayed up till 2am to watch it...]
Jun 3rd, 2005, 12:33 PM
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<b>Mon, May 30, 2005. Bank Holiday in England.</b>
During breakfast at the B&B, one of the other guests suggested me to go to Padstow, just about 7 miles away. He said it's a beautiful town in an estuary, and is not as crowded as nearby towns like Newquay or St. Ives. However, that would mean going back west, so I decided not to do that. Because it was the last day of a long weekend, I was worried that traffic on M5 going to back Bristol would be bad; and I still hadn't seen Bristol itself.
Going east on A389, I passed by the town of <b>Bodmin</b>, which is a nice place to stay if you are hiking the Bodmin Moors, or visiting the various houses and gardens in the central Cornwall. Continuing east on the fast A38, I arrived at the large port of <b>Plymouth</b>, after crossing the Tamar Bridge (toll, £1). That also concluded my visit to Cornwall, as Plymouth is in Devonshire.
The Tamar bridge is a pretty large suspension bridge. I later read that it was the longest suspension bridge in the UK when it opened in 1961. It was also recently widened with cantilevers. And to the south of it sits the beautiful Royal Albert railway bridge, built in 1859 by <b>Isambard Kingdom Brunel</b>, better known as simply the Brunel bridge. I had really wanted to stop and take photos of the two bridges, but A38 is a motorway there, and I didn't know if there's a observation point. Anyways, I would visit two other significant designs of Brunel later in the day, in Bristol.
Plymouth was the first real city I've visited this trip, and it's quite attractive. I didn't stop at city center but headed straight to The Hoe - which is the high point south of city center. The Citadel is an active Royal Army fort, so no tour. But to the immediately west is a large plaza that has a beautiful view of Plymouth Sound and the Atlantic.
I paid for only the 2nd and last time for an attraction here - the <b>Smeaton's Tower</b>. Named after its builder, John Smeaton, it is a 22m lighthouse originally built on the Eddystone, 14miles south of Plymouth. It looked like most modern lighthouses, but was actually built in 1756. Remarkably, it stood at the rocks for about 120 years, and then another 130 in Plymouth so far.
There were several harbor cruises from Plymouth. I was really tempted to see the naval dockyars, but time was running out. So, have to wait until next time. Overall, I love Plymouth. It's small enough to cover the main areas by foot, yet with lots of history behind it.
To be continued...
During breakfast at the B&B, one of the other guests suggested me to go to Padstow, just about 7 miles away. He said it's a beautiful town in an estuary, and is not as crowded as nearby towns like Newquay or St. Ives. However, that would mean going back west, so I decided not to do that. Because it was the last day of a long weekend, I was worried that traffic on M5 going to back Bristol would be bad; and I still hadn't seen Bristol itself.
Going east on A389, I passed by the town of <b>Bodmin</b>, which is a nice place to stay if you are hiking the Bodmin Moors, or visiting the various houses and gardens in the central Cornwall. Continuing east on the fast A38, I arrived at the large port of <b>Plymouth</b>, after crossing the Tamar Bridge (toll, £1). That also concluded my visit to Cornwall, as Plymouth is in Devonshire.
The Tamar bridge is a pretty large suspension bridge. I later read that it was the longest suspension bridge in the UK when it opened in 1961. It was also recently widened with cantilevers. And to the south of it sits the beautiful Royal Albert railway bridge, built in 1859 by <b>Isambard Kingdom Brunel</b>, better known as simply the Brunel bridge. I had really wanted to stop and take photos of the two bridges, but A38 is a motorway there, and I didn't know if there's a observation point. Anyways, I would visit two other significant designs of Brunel later in the day, in Bristol.
Plymouth was the first real city I've visited this trip, and it's quite attractive. I didn't stop at city center but headed straight to The Hoe - which is the high point south of city center. The Citadel is an active Royal Army fort, so no tour. But to the immediately west is a large plaza that has a beautiful view of Plymouth Sound and the Atlantic.
I paid for only the 2nd and last time for an attraction here - the <b>Smeaton's Tower</b>. Named after its builder, John Smeaton, it is a 22m lighthouse originally built on the Eddystone, 14miles south of Plymouth. It looked like most modern lighthouses, but was actually built in 1756. Remarkably, it stood at the rocks for about 120 years, and then another 130 in Plymouth so far.
There were several harbor cruises from Plymouth. I was really tempted to see the naval dockyars, but time was running out. So, have to wait until next time. Overall, I love Plymouth. It's small enough to cover the main areas by foot, yet with lots of history behind it.
To be continued...
Jun 3rd, 2005, 04:11 PM
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rkkwan
good trip report, any pictures?
I agree it's a pity you didn't visit St Ives but then again Cornwall is a good place to visit just before and just after high season. If you'd visited a week earlier you wouldn't have had the crowds.
If you do visit again Padstow is worth a visit and on the south coast try Mevagissey and Fowey.
This is bringing back lots of childhood memories - I remember Lands End before it was turned into a 'theme park' and you only had to pay for parking
good trip report, any pictures?
I agree it's a pity you didn't visit St Ives but then again Cornwall is a good place to visit just before and just after high season. If you'd visited a week earlier you wouldn't have had the crowds.
If you do visit again Padstow is worth a visit and on the south coast try Mevagissey and Fowey.
This is bringing back lots of childhood memories - I remember Lands End before it was turned into a 'theme park' and you only had to pay for parking
Jun 3rd, 2005, 04:40 PM
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alya - I took some pictures, but I was mostly videotaping, first time on a trip. Nothing really special in the pictures, so I won't be posting them, at least not for now.
But really glad you love the report. And thanks for suggesting those other places to go to. Two of my fellow guests at the B&B were going to Fowey.
---
East of Plymouth, I got off A38 and headed east on A385 towards Torquay. Traffic was horrendous near Paignton - there were flea markets, antique car shows, everything going on because of the holiday. Like St. Ives the day before, <b>Torquay</b> was swamped with tourists. Known as the English Riviera, it does resemble the south of France in a way - at least on this gorgeous sunny holiday. Lots of shops, lots of restaurants, lots of hotels, lots of people. I have to say it's distinctly non-English like in its atmosphere.
I didn't park, just drove along the harborfront, and then headed north towards past <b>Babbacombe</b> towards <b>Teignmouth</b>. The coast line here is also very pretty, and the roads and bungalows reminded me of Stanley or Shek O on the south side of Hong Kong Island. Half a world away, I know, but it's not hard to understand why...
Traffic on M5 from Exeter back to Bristol was not bad at all. Quite surprising, as I thought all the vacationers would be heading home to London or the Midlands. But this would be my only ture motorway travel on the whole trip, and the rental Renault Scenic didn't have any problem cruising at 85-90mph. Only times the traffic slowed down were through the one construction zone, and when a police van was parked on one of the overpass. Otherwise, it was fast and fun.
Service areas are frequent, about one every 20 miles. I stopped at the one near Taunton, and had a burger. £4.99 for a value meal was very expensive, especially when the joint is called <b>Wimpy</b>. But it was almost 3pm, and I was hungry.
Bristol will be next...
But really glad you love the report. And thanks for suggesting those other places to go to. Two of my fellow guests at the B&B were going to Fowey.
---
East of Plymouth, I got off A38 and headed east on A385 towards Torquay. Traffic was horrendous near Paignton - there were flea markets, antique car shows, everything going on because of the holiday. Like St. Ives the day before, <b>Torquay</b> was swamped with tourists. Known as the English Riviera, it does resemble the south of France in a way - at least on this gorgeous sunny holiday. Lots of shops, lots of restaurants, lots of hotels, lots of people. I have to say it's distinctly non-English like in its atmosphere.
I didn't park, just drove along the harborfront, and then headed north towards past <b>Babbacombe</b> towards <b>Teignmouth</b>. The coast line here is also very pretty, and the roads and bungalows reminded me of Stanley or Shek O on the south side of Hong Kong Island. Half a world away, I know, but it's not hard to understand why...
Traffic on M5 from Exeter back to Bristol was not bad at all. Quite surprising, as I thought all the vacationers would be heading home to London or the Midlands. But this would be my only ture motorway travel on the whole trip, and the rental Renault Scenic didn't have any problem cruising at 85-90mph. Only times the traffic slowed down were through the one construction zone, and when a police van was parked on one of the overpass. Otherwise, it was fast and fun.
Service areas are frequent, about one every 20 miles. I stopped at the one near Taunton, and had a burger. £4.99 for a value meal was very expensive, especially when the joint is called <b>Wimpy</b>.
But it was almost 3pm, and I was hungry.Bristol will be next...
Jun 3rd, 2005, 05:16 PM
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There were two things I had wanted to see in Bristol, and both built by <b>Isambard Kingdom Brunel</b>. Not proficient in English history, I first learned of Brunel playing the Railroad Tycoon computer game. Then he was voted one of the "top Briton" in a BBC poll in 2002.
Anyways, he was chief engineer of the Great Western Railroad which linked London and Bristol, and to the West Country. Most of his famous works still stand - London Paddington Station, Royal Albert Bridge near Plymouth that I saw early that day, etc... And in Bristol, there are three: Temple Meads Station, SS Great Britain and <b>Clifton Suspension Bridge</b>.
The Clifton Gorge is on my way into Bristol, so I stopped there first. The Avon River cut through it to get to the sea, and the bridge spans this gorge. Let's just say it's gorgeous, completed almost 150 years ago. It costs 30p to cross by car. I got some great views of the bridge from the park on the Clifton (north) side, and I also walked on the bridge itself. Unfortunately, the visitor center is closed while they're building a new one. I also missed a daily guided tour at 3:30pm.
I came down the cliffs of Clifton, crossed the Floating Harbour (a canal that flows through center Bristol), and went to the <b>SS Great Britain</b>. Built in 1843, it was Brunel's 2nd ship for Great Western, and it was the first large iron-hull ship with a screw propeller - i.e. the father of all modern ships. Unfortunately, I again arrived too late to get in; the Maritime Heritage Center and most of the dock was under renovation. [The dock was the same one where the ship was built.] But the ship was fully restored and looks just beautiful - a long way from the way it looked in 1970 after it had been rotting for 100 years in the Falklands.
It's now time for me to find my hotel. I got a room at the Marriott City Center for <US$100. [Rate on hotel's website is about £135.] Well, Bristol was notorious of its traffic, and Bostonians will feel right at home driving in center Bristol. There's no logic at all in the way the streets are planned. Fortunately, it was holiday, so no traffic at all, and I found the hotel.
To be continued...
Anyways, he was chief engineer of the Great Western Railroad which linked London and Bristol, and to the West Country. Most of his famous works still stand - London Paddington Station, Royal Albert Bridge near Plymouth that I saw early that day, etc... And in Bristol, there are three: Temple Meads Station, SS Great Britain and <b>Clifton Suspension Bridge</b>.
The Clifton Gorge is on my way into Bristol, so I stopped there first. The Avon River cut through it to get to the sea, and the bridge spans this gorge. Let's just say it's gorgeous, completed almost 150 years ago. It costs 30p to cross by car. I got some great views of the bridge from the park on the Clifton (north) side, and I also walked on the bridge itself. Unfortunately, the visitor center is closed while they're building a new one. I also missed a daily guided tour at 3:30pm.
I came down the cliffs of Clifton, crossed the Floating Harbour (a canal that flows through center Bristol), and went to the <b>SS Great Britain</b>. Built in 1843, it was Brunel's 2nd ship for Great Western, and it was the first large iron-hull ship with a screw propeller - i.e. the father of all modern ships. Unfortunately, I again arrived too late to get in; the Maritime Heritage Center and most of the dock was under renovation. [The dock was the same one where the ship was built.] But the ship was fully restored and looks just beautiful - a long way from the way it looked in 1970 after it had been rotting for 100 years in the Falklands.
It's now time for me to find my hotel. I got a room at the Marriott City Center for <US$100. [Rate on hotel's website is about £135.] Well, Bristol was notorious of its traffic, and Bostonians will feel right at home driving in center Bristol. There's no logic at all in the way the streets are planned. Fortunately, it was holiday, so no traffic at all, and I found the hotel.
To be continued...
Jun 3rd, 2005, 05:41 PM
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The Marriott City Center is on the east side of town, just past the <b>Castle Park</b>. Also just steps from the <b>Broadmead</b> shopping street. However, all the shops were closed, or they'd closed early, on Bank Holiday. Decent 4* hotel, and the Priceline price just can't be beat.
It was already 7pm, so I headed out on foot, past the Castle Park, to the Old City area. Bristol was heavily bombed by the Luftfaffe during WWII, and a reminder is the ruins of <b>St. Peter's Church</b> in the park. <b>Queen Square</b> in the Old City was nice and quiet, surrounded by recently restored row houses.
To the west across another bridge is the <b>Harbourside</b> development. There's a new theater, shops and restaurants, IMAX theater, etc. More stuff are being built. No doubt the city is going through a revival. Finally, I climbed the stairs to the <b>Bristol Cathedral</b>. It's a gothic-style building that looks like a small Notre Dame, but it can't compare with cathedrals in Bath or Salisbury nearby.
After two nights of pub food, I decided to have something different. There were several large boats converted to restaurants on the Floating Harbour. One is called <b>Spyglass</b>, and is particularly busy. They serve grilled fish and meat, and I ordered grilled black bream. This place serve Belgian brew, so I ordered a Laffe. For desert I had an Eton Mess, very nice and they use rapsberry instead of strawberry. Along with a double expresso, the bill came to under £20, including 10% service charge. That was extremely reasonable.
It was already 7pm, so I headed out on foot, past the Castle Park, to the Old City area. Bristol was heavily bombed by the Luftfaffe during WWII, and a reminder is the ruins of <b>St. Peter's Church</b> in the park. <b>Queen Square</b> in the Old City was nice and quiet, surrounded by recently restored row houses.
To the west across another bridge is the <b>Harbourside</b> development. There's a new theater, shops and restaurants, IMAX theater, etc. More stuff are being built. No doubt the city is going through a revival. Finally, I climbed the stairs to the <b>Bristol Cathedral</b>. It's a gothic-style building that looks like a small Notre Dame, but it can't compare with cathedrals in Bath or Salisbury nearby.
After two nights of pub food, I decided to have something different. There were several large boats converted to restaurants on the Floating Harbour. One is called <b>Spyglass</b>, and is particularly busy. They serve grilled fish and meat, and I ordered grilled black bream. This place serve Belgian brew, so I ordered a Laffe. For desert I had an Eton Mess, very nice and they use rapsberry instead of strawberry. Along with a double expresso, the bill came to under £20, including 10% service charge. That was extremely reasonable.
Jun 3rd, 2005, 06:08 PM
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Tuesday, May 31, 2005
It's time to go home. Bristol Airport is only 10 miles from city center, but took me 30 minutes to get there because it was a two-lane road with a lot of busy roundabouts.
Let me talk a bit more about the car. While many jokes had been made about French cars, the Renault Scenic I rented is actually very nice. For a relatively small car - about the size of the Toyota Matrix - it's is very well appointed - even if it's just the basic trim, but with an upgraded 1.6L 115hp engine. [Base engine is 1.4L, 100hp].
Things that are new to me include:
- Automatic headlights, with adjustable vertical angle.
- The key has been replaced by a thick card.
- Tire pressure monitor
- Radio that can automatically find a different frequency for the same station. [For example, I was listening to ClassicFM from Bristol to Land's End, and I do not have to touch the dial to change frequencies.]
- Press-button parking brake that has an automatic release when you give gas the ease out the clutch. So, no rolling back when starting on a slope.
- Window shades built into the rear doors.
And the engine is quite preppy. Even though it's not very powerful (I drive cars with twice the horsepower), I have no problem doing 85-90mph on M5. On some steep hills, I did have to go to 1st gear, however. But the best part is the handling. Even though it's front-wheel-drive with modest tires, and is taller than most cars, it has very little body roll and little understeer.
The gear shift is quite precise, and clutch easy to use. Fuel economy is not bad, averaging 31mpg for my 540-mile trip, even though I have A/C on for most of the time, which is quite unnecessary.
[While average price for petrol is about 87 pence per liter, I found stations to fuel up at 81.9 and 84.9.]
However, I do have some complaints about the car. The radio is hard to use - one reason why I stick with ClassicFM the whole weekend. The A-pillar is thick and often blocked my sightline. And the steering wheel has a "low" angle, so the top of the wheel is very far away. Also, while the engine seems relatively powerful and quiet at idle, it gets pretty loud when revving it high.
But at the end, I can understand why French cars are getting quite popular even in the UK. Lots of Renault, Citroens and Peugeots everywhere, while there are fewer Fords, Vauxhalls or VWs compared to about 15 years ago when I last drove in the UK. Rover has basically disappeared.
It's time to go home. Bristol Airport is only 10 miles from city center, but took me 30 minutes to get there because it was a two-lane road with a lot of busy roundabouts.
Let me talk a bit more about the car. While many jokes had been made about French cars, the Renault Scenic I rented is actually very nice. For a relatively small car - about the size of the Toyota Matrix - it's is very well appointed - even if it's just the basic trim, but with an upgraded 1.6L 115hp engine. [Base engine is 1.4L, 100hp].
Things that are new to me include:
- Automatic headlights, with adjustable vertical angle.
- The key has been replaced by a thick card.
- Tire pressure monitor
- Radio that can automatically find a different frequency for the same station. [For example, I was listening to ClassicFM from Bristol to Land's End, and I do not have to touch the dial to change frequencies.]
- Press-button parking brake that has an automatic release when you give gas the ease out the clutch. So, no rolling back when starting on a slope.
- Window shades built into the rear doors.
And the engine is quite preppy. Even though it's not very powerful (I drive cars with twice the horsepower), I have no problem doing 85-90mph on M5. On some steep hills, I did have to go to 1st gear, however. But the best part is the handling. Even though it's front-wheel-drive with modest tires, and is taller than most cars, it has very little body roll and little understeer.
The gear shift is quite precise, and clutch easy to use. Fuel economy is not bad, averaging 31mpg for my 540-mile trip, even though I have A/C on for most of the time, which is quite unnecessary.
[While average price for petrol is about 87 pence per liter, I found stations to fuel up at 81.9 and 84.9.]
However, I do have some complaints about the car. The radio is hard to use - one reason why I stick with ClassicFM the whole weekend. The A-pillar is thick and often blocked my sightline. And the steering wheel has a "low" angle, so the top of the wheel is very far away. Also, while the engine seems relatively powerful and quiet at idle, it gets pretty loud when revving it high.
But at the end, I can understand why French cars are getting quite popular even in the UK. Lots of Renault, Citroens and Peugeots everywhere, while there are fewer Fords, Vauxhalls or VWs compared to about 15 years ago when I last drove in the UK. Rover has basically disappeared.
Jun 3rd, 2005, 06:31 PM
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Final word about Bristol Airport (BRS) and Continental's new flight:
Many people are surprised that CO will fly into small airports like BRS or Belfast (BFS). Most Americans don't know where these places are, and will always stick with LHR or LGW when going to the UK. However, for travellers going to/from SW England, Wales, and even some parts of the Midlands, Bristol makes sense.
It is easy to drive in and out. With few flights a day, there's little chance of air traffic delays. I simply find it a pleasant airport to use, except for the strong winds at landing.
And the BRS airport is accomodating CO quite well. 4 kiosks with passport scanner were there - which is quite enough as a full plane is only about 170 passengers. And most impressive is a bypass line for BusinessFirst and Elite members to go through security. It's apparent that the airport sees this as an important flight for them.
We pulled back from the "stand" (remember, no jetway) right on time, and we were airborne in 5 minutes! [Try that at LHR!] The flight took basically the Great Circle route, over Wales, Ireland, and then made landfall in Newfoundland. Because of the quick departure, we arrived 30 minutes early at EWR. [Enough time for me to catch an early flight back to Houston on standby.]
And one final beautiful touch. Prior to landing at EWR, we were served a snack. A turkey sandwich, but also a scone, strawberry jam and Cornish clotted cream - cream tea, that is! [Turned out they also serve the same on Gatwick flights.] But still, I was very excited...
Anyways, that conclude my trip report. I had lots of fun, and went to so many places in 3 days. I'm really glad that CO started this flight with this 25K roundtrip offer.
Many people are surprised that CO will fly into small airports like BRS or Belfast (BFS). Most Americans don't know where these places are, and will always stick with LHR or LGW when going to the UK. However, for travellers going to/from SW England, Wales, and even some parts of the Midlands, Bristol makes sense.
It is easy to drive in and out. With few flights a day, there's little chance of air traffic delays. I simply find it a pleasant airport to use, except for the strong winds at landing.
And the BRS airport is accomodating CO quite well. 4 kiosks with passport scanner were there - which is quite enough as a full plane is only about 170 passengers. And most impressive is a bypass line for BusinessFirst and Elite members to go through security. It's apparent that the airport sees this as an important flight for them.
We pulled back from the "stand" (remember, no jetway) right on time, and we were airborne in 5 minutes! [Try that at LHR!] The flight took basically the Great Circle route, over Wales, Ireland, and then made landfall in Newfoundland. Because of the quick departure, we arrived 30 minutes early at EWR. [Enough time for me to catch an early flight back to Houston on standby.]
And one final beautiful touch. Prior to landing at EWR, we were served a snack. A turkey sandwich, but also a scone, strawberry jam and Cornish clotted cream - cream tea, that is! [Turned out they also serve the same on Gatwick flights.] But still, I was very excited...
Anyways, that conclude my trip report. I had lots of fun, and went to so many places in 3 days. I'm really glad that CO started this flight with this 25K roundtrip offer.
Jun 4th, 2005, 06:17 AM
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Thoroughly enjoyed your entire report. I have made many notes for my upcoming trip, especially being intrigued by the Clifton Suspension Bridge and Penzance (any pirates in town??LOL). Thanks for such a wonderful and comprehensive report.
Jun 4th, 2005, 08:04 AM
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We will have one day in Falmouth the end of August (off a Silverseas ship) - I wonder if rkkwan, or any others responding here with knowledge of the area, can offer any advice as to the best way for us to spend the day....Confine ourselves to Falmouth? Hire a guide? Or our own car? And head...where? Thanks!
