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Seven hours in Istanbul

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Seven hours in Istanbul

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Old Feb 4th, 2006, 11:24 AM
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Seven hours in Istanbul

Last summer, we (my wife and I) had a 10 hour stopover in Istanbul. I thought that it would be useful to other travellers if I posted here what we did and therefore, what can be done during a short time in Istanbul.

As this story is going to be long, I'll split it in a few parts and number them.
So this is Part 1.

We landed in Istanbul at around 7.30 am and with sleepy eyes, we went through the airport’s hallways toward the passport control counters. We had to collect an entry visa (10 US$ or 10 euros, whatever you had) from a counter there, then queued for the passport control. There were long lines at every counter and we progressed very slowly. After about an hour we were finally going through. We changed some money at an exchange counter in the airport and went out to get a taxi. Since we were going to stay only for a few hours, I didn't find it necessary to look for a money changer in town in the hope of finding a better rate. In our situation, time valued more than a few cents extra at 100 dollars worth of Turkish Liras. That's also the reason why we chose to pick a taxi instead of waiting for a bus. The taxis were waiting in line right in front of the exit gates and we took one of them. I had inquired at the Tourist Information office in the airport about the approx. fare to Sultanahmet area and was told that it would be about 20 liras (the exchange rate last summer was 1.60 TL to the euro and 1.30 TL to the dollar). We went to the Sultanahmet area, where the most important tourist attractions in Istanbul are: the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.

End of Part 1.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 05:17 AM
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Your report is of course helpful to all of us.

But, in time, the various parts of your report will become separated and difficult for your readers to follow. May I suggest that next time the subsequent parts be posted as replies to the original post.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 06:23 AM
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Thank you Jed for this.
Actually, I realized it only much later today and I was looking forward to come home from work to do just what you said.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 06:24 AM
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This is Part 2.

The taxi driver sped all the way, weaving madly in and out of traffic. The road took us along the shores of the Bosporus and we could see on our right side lots of boats, ferries and seafood restaurants. The taxi then went on winding roads through the city and suddenly to our left appeared a very beautiful mosque, having a well-known look: The Blue Mosque.

We got off happily from the taxi and began to shoot photos feverishly. It was a sunny day and we tried to capture as much as possible of what was offered to our eyes.

On the opposite side we saw another well-known construction: the Hagia Sophia.

At a short distance behind it was the Topkapi Palace. We knew the opening hours for every one of these attractions and we chose to visit the palace first. In our eagerness, we were somehow worried that we wouldn’t have enough time to see everything, as we had just over 5 hours until we had to return to the airport. I deducted the time required to reach the airport and the time to be spent for check-in and boarding.

We went on a few side streets like bazaars, full with small shops and street merchants selling souvenirs, and we reached the palace gate.
The palace is located on the Seraglio Point between the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara, having a splendid view of the Bosporus Strait.

We first visited the kitchens, where the Palace’s great Chinese and Japanese porcelains are displayed. A huge collection of porcelains and glass from the golden era of the Ottoman Empire, superbly decorated and brought here from the farthest corners of the Orient. After the Porcelain Collection we saw the European Glass and Silver Collection.

We knew that at 10 o’clock the Harem would open for visit and that it would be crowded, so with about 20 minutes remaining we started to walk in that direction. We could see from a distance that many people had already gathered in a queue at the Harem door, so we hurried a little, as time was not on our side. We just had to go in with the first group, as the entries are at various intervals for a limited number of people only. We had a plane to catch in the afternoon, which meant no time to miss opportunities.

End of Part 2.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 06:25 AM
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This is Part 3.

We were among the last few allowed to go in with the first group. We toured the Harem and were struck with awe at the wonders inside. From the outside, the palace doesn't look as appealing like the palaces that we find in Europe. However, Topkapi Palace's richness is inside.

All the rooms in the Harem were beautifully decorated with mother of pearl, ivory, tortoise shell, gold leaf, porcelain tiles, marble columns, crystal chandeliers and mirrors.

We ended our Harem tour in the Courtyard of the Favorites, surrounded by a charming building recalling the medieval residences of Florence. The apartments on the upper floors were reserved for the members of the Harem that the sultan liked best, enjoying open space and beautiful sea views. Unfortunately, no matter how hard we looked around, there was none of them there this time.

From here we continued our visit and saw the Imperial Costumes, the Treasury and the Holy Relics sections. In the Imperial Costumes section, were the wardrobes of the Sultans, beautiful and eye catching garments made of silk and velvet.

In the Treasury we saw beautiful jewels, exquisite works in diamond and gold with precious stones, emerald objects and... We were amazed at the size, quantity and beauty of the exhibits here.

In the Pavilion of the Holy Relics we saw The Holy Mantle, the cloak of the Prophet Mohammed, and some of his personal items, such as a letter, a tooth, hair from his beard, a footprint and a seal. Also displayed in this room are two swords belonging to the Prophet, decorated in precious stones, and the Holy Standard of Mohammed, taken into battle on each occasion when the Ottoman armies took out on campaigns. Among other exhibits here, we could see the scepter of the Prophet Moses and the sword of the Prophet David.

End of Part 3.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 06:26 AM
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This is Part 4.

We then descended some stairs and we walked far to the right until we reached a seaside terrace. There we had a nice surprise when we found ourselves in front of a spectacular view of the Bosporus and the Marmara Sea, and of the hills on the other side of the strait. We stayed there for a while and enjoyed the superb scenery.
Then we went to the other side of the palace, where there is another terrace, surrounding a pool. The Revan Pavilion and the Baghdad Pavilion were built there for Murat IV, to celebrate the conquests of Persia and Iraq respectively. The Baghdad Pavilion is decorated with beautiful Iznik tiles and inside the building is quite ornate. Between the two pavilions there is a lovely bronze kiosk of Sultan Ibrahim, dating from 1640. It was here that the sultan broke his daily fasting at sunset during the Month of Fasting (Ramadan). Like the sultan himself, we took a break there and enjoyed the lovely sight of the city over the Golden Horn. On the left, we could see the Suleiman's Mosque in all its magnificence.
We continued our visit in the rooms of the palace. We saw Turkish and Iranian miniatures as well as portraits of Ottoman sultans, modeled after those painted by some of the Renaissance's most celebrated artists (Veronese, Bellini). Lacking any record of the physiological characteristics of the first 12 sultans, the Ottomans had the ones painted by the Venetians brought back to Istanbul in 1579.
In the second courtyard on our way back, we came upon the Imperial Armory, a collection of arms and objects acquired during the various military campaigns. We saw the swords of Mehmet the Conqueror and Süleyman the Magnificent.
We finished the visit here at the Topkapi Palace and we went to Hagia Sophia, which is nearby.

Amazing in the outside, it is even more amazing inside. This is a huge, impressive and unique building. This Byzantine church was the greatest church in Christendom until 1453, when the Ottomans defeated Constantinople. All of the Byzantine Emperors were coronated in Hagia Sophia Church. Upon its completion, it is said that Constantine entered the church and exclaimed, “Solomon, I have surpassed you!” a reference to Solomon’s temple in Jerusalem. When the Turks conquered Istanbul in 1453, the first thing Mehmet the Conqueror did was to order the conversion of the church into a mosque. The mosaics on the walls were covered with plaster because they were forbidden in Islam. Hagia Sophia served as a mosque until Mustafa Kemal Ataturk ordered its conversion into a museum.
We entered the mosque and started to walk around, gazing in amazement at the sheer immensity of the interior. In the middle there was a huge scaffolding erected until high up at the top of the dome. We climbed to the galleries at the second floor and the views were even more impressive. We could clearly see Orthodox paintings being uncovered on the walls and it was a strange mixture of religions there. Huge boards with quotes from the Holy Koran were placed among Orthodox paintings depicting angels and saints.

End of Part 4.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 06:28 AM
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This is Part 5 - the last one.

We left Hagia Sophia and headed toward the Blue Mosque, just across the street. Its real name is Sultan Ahmet I Mosque, but it is called the Blue Mosque because of the blue Iznik tiles that line the interior walls.
We stopped for a while in the park in front of the former church and took some photos with the kinetic fountain. On the alley before the entrance to the Blue Mosque, there were a few ice cream vendors. We stopped at one of them to buy some. We chose our flavours, the vendor filled in our cones and then he started to make some funny tricks with the ice cream cones at us, juggling them with fast and precise moves, without dropping a single bit of the precious stuff. It was a moment of good fun.
Built between 1609 and 1616, the Blue Mosque is one of the most prominent landmarks of Istanbul. It is very impressive with its beautiful domes, nice courtyards and six slender minarets. We entered a big court and then waited until the afternoon prayers were finished. We had to take off our shoes and put them in plastic bags that were provided to us at the entrance. The interior of the mosque is too elaborate to describe. It is awesome. The floor is covered with dozens of carpets. Massive pillars support the huge main dome, the walls, pillars and ceilings are decorated with colourful mosaics and tiles, and the huge space is truly awe-inspiring. We turned our heads in all directions admiring the work of art surrounding us.
After this visit we went for a walk on the nearby streets. The square in front of the Blue Mosque covers the site of the ancient Hippodrome, one of the most famous areas in Byzantine Constantinople.

At a corner of a street nearby we noticed a sign pointing toward the Grand Bazaar, so we looked at the time and thought it couldn’t be too far for us to pay it a quick visit before returning to the airport. We walked all the way, mingling with the crowds, and stopped at 2 or 3 cafeterias on the way to buy some baklavas. We tried a few of them but were not so delighted and they were expensive, too. Maybe we were just unlucky.
The entrance to the Grand Bazaar was a big gate, with beautiful Islamic works in stone and a coat of arms above the arch. Just below the coat of arms, it was written Grand Bazaar 1481. So it is really old. We entered and immediately were swept away by the multitude of alleys, shops, colours, crowds, merchants, all sorts of products hanging everywhere… a colourful show of life and joy. We couldn’t spend too much time in the bazaar and at about 2.30 pm we were back at the airport. We had time to sit at a table in one of the coffee shops there, had a coffee and wrote a few postcards.

I would like to highlight the fact that the visits to these three attractions were not rushed. We took our time and even had enough time to wait for about half an hour before we could enter the Blue Mosque. The fact that they are all close together makes it easy for a combined visit.

I hope that this info will be of help to any of you having a little time to spend in Istanbul and not being sure of what can be done.

Happy travels!
Gabriel
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Old Aug 24th, 2006, 04:42 AM
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We are planning 7 days in Istanbul in November so we will be able to see all of this at leisure but your whirlwind tour sure whets my appetite. Thanks for your report.
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Old Aug 24th, 2006, 05:41 AM
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Well, for more ideas, here's what we did during our second stopover, on our return home.

I scanned some photos taken during both our stopovers (their quality is not as good as the digital ones) and placed them here

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...1AaNGzly4ZsXiQ

We reacehd Istanbul at 1pm. It was crowded in the airport and it would have taken quite some time to get out, so we pondered for a while whether to buy visas and go down town for another visit, or just to sit, wait and get bored in the airport for 7 hours until evening at 8 o’clock.

We decided that it was a better bet to buy those visas and then try to see some more sights in Istanbul, even though the time was limited.

We already knew how to move around, so we jumped into a taxi in front of the airport and told the driver to take us to Taksim Square.

The taxi took us flying along the Bosporus, and after about 40 minutes we were there. When we got off the taxi, the driver gave us a valuable tip: go to the upper floor coffee shop in the Intercontinental Hotel for a magnificent view over the Bosporus.

But first we walked around Taksim Square, trying to immerse in the heated atmosphere of the city centre.

I was spot on with my camera when a pure local passed by with a wrapped up big basket on the top of his head.

We walked to the Intercontinental and went up to the City Lights Bar, the coffee shop with a view of the Bosporus. We were the only customers at that time of the day and ordered a turkish coffee.

The door to the terrace was locked, but when we asked if it was possible to open the door to go out, the waiter was very happy to do it.

We went out on the terrace... the views towards the Asian side over the Bosporus were splendid. Ships were floating on the still waters of the strait, the city was stretching for miles around, and the Bosporus was opening towards the sea in front of us.

To the right we recognized the Sultanahmet area, with the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.

Further to the left we could see the majestic silhouette of the Bosporus Bridge. We decided we had to take a taxi and cross the bridge to the Asian side.

We finished our coffees and left. Just down the street from the hotel we passed by the Inonu Stadium, home of the Besiktas Istanbul football team.

One hundred more metres down the road it was the Bosporus. We went to the shore and to the left we saw the Dolmabahce Palace.

We couldn’t go in because it was closed. We took a few photos with the splendid palace gates and the views across the strait of the Asian side.

Then we took a taxi and went over the Bosporus Bridge. The views on both sides were magnificent.

We reached the Asian side and returned. The European side is richer in attractions and architecture and there is a clear difference between the two sides of the Bosporus.

We arrived at the airport entirely satisfied with this day trip in Istanbul and with enough time to have a bite at Burger King.

End of report.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 04:30 PM
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Thanks for the report. What was the routing that gave you a stopover in Istanbul both ways? It seems so unusual to get a stopover in that airport.

And where did you leave your bags? Are there lockers at the airport? That's what I'm more interested in finding out. I'm thinking of a short trip to Istanbul. As I'm thinking of taking a late night flight to Tel Aviv the same day I arrive, I'll have to figure out where I can leave my bag for a few hours.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 04:33 PM
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I guess I found my answer -- but any first-hand experience is of course welcome:

http://www.ataturkairport.com/eng/1.php

Looks like it's old info as they've not converted the old lira to the new one.

LUGGAGE STORAGE SERVICES
The luggage storage unit is located on the arrival floor of the terminal and is open round-the-clock. Passengers are charged a daily fee which is calculated after the collection of the luggage. The fees are as follows:
Big size package 10,000,000 TL per day
Normal size luggage 7,000,000 TL per day
Handbag 6,000,000 TL per day
Small size package (plastic bag etc.) 4,000,000 TL per day
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 05:11 PM
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I just discovered that I can't go at all after checking my schedule -- I obviously plan to go to in the future, but hope I don't have to worry about the lockers then. It's a shame. I was set to book.

Well, next time. Thanks again for your report.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 09:55 AM
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I flew from the United Arab Emirates, that's how I got a stopover in Istanbul.

I left the bags in the airport. As you go towards the exit, the left baggage office is far to the right.

Unfortunately I don't remember the cost, but it was not much, a few new Lira.

Good luck!
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