Matt_from_England

Those of you familiar with the "Things to do in and around Lisbon" threads will know that I have begun travelling the country by train, documenting my experiences, and because the reports are lengthy I have decided to post them under a dedicated thread. I aprreciate some of you who come to Portugal may hire a car but there are times when a trip by train takes you through some incredible scenery and I have found that rail travel in Portugal is a cheap and comfortable alternative to roads.

So I will start with a trip from Lisbon to Porto and Porto to Regua along the Linha do Douro. Further trip reports to follow.

Matt

Matt_from_England

LISBON TO PORTO part I

On a hot afternoon I arrived at Stª Apolonia Station in order to catch the Alfa Pendular train to Porto.

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The station is approximately ten minutes walk from Praça do Commercio and one can take a taxi or bus easily if with luggage but I was travelling light - notebook pen cameras and change of clothing. I arrived an hour before my train was due to depart and there is a large ticket office as you enter the main doors on the left. A single 2nd class ticket to Porto Campanha costs 27 euros and seats are allocated so state whether you want a window or aisle seat, which side of the train you want (for the best views I think the left) and whether you want you seat facing foward or backwards in relation to direction of travel.

You can catch one of two types of train to Porto, the Intercidades

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Which takes longer, stops at more stations and is a little cheaper, or the ALFA PENDULAR

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which only stops at Oriente, Coimbra - B, Aveiro, Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto Campanha. The difference between the two is quite obvious.

I was lucky enough to be invited into the cab to sit alongside the driver for the journey giving me a vastly different perspective of the trip than usual.

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It certainly makes a change seeing familiar stations from this viewpoint: here we are pulling into Oriente, that of the EXPO 98 site.

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Once out of the station the train is a high speed express which reaches a top speed of 220 KPH on the newer stretches of line:

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and slowly is the whole route to Porto being renewed. However various stretches of the line still have lower speed limits imposed as you run between the houses of small villages:

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One of the details from this angle you wouldn't see normally is the old ladies who control the level crossings:

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They stand beside the barriers with an orange baton to let the driver know there are no problems and to proceed. A two tone blast of the horn and we are quickly past them.

The driver's position is more like that of a pilot with many computer displays in front of him:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...20trains/8.jpg

And his hands gently coax speed from the train. The ALFA PENDULAR is a tilting train and as you go round curves the effect of the leaning is more pronounced in the cab - it allows for faster speeds through the curves.

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Here we are doing the max permitted speed. And of course all the while I'm absorbing everything and was kindly provided with coffee by the catering staff.

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I’d had lunch before the train left in a small restaurant close to Stª Apolónia – there are plenty of places to eat if arriving early just across the road. So I had no need for the restaurant car, however I was provided a coffee by the catering staff which I appreciated.

Most of the rail network in the country is broad gauge, ie wider than those used in other countries thus making the possibility of a trans Europe Express beginning in Lisbon remote. However there is a project for the TGV route to be extended from Spain to Portugal in the coming years allowing faster more efficient travelling between the countries. Imagine catching a train at Waterloo, diving down under the channel, lunch in Paris and then on to Spain and Portugal.

After Coimbra – B, (perfect for a day trip to this beautiful city) the next stop is at Aveiro. Although a reconstructed station, the original building has been restored and is well worth photographing - you will see it from the left hand side of the train.

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Seen as we slow down to stop, and another view showing some of the tile work. (Not a great shot admittedly).

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From Aveiro one can take a small narrow gauge line which winds through the countryside to Sernado do Vouga and it can be seen here branching sharply away to the right.

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From Sernado do Vouga you can continue on the same narrow gauge line up to Espinho which is on the main Lisbon - Porto line. Further photographs of this interesting route can be seen at Vitor's website:

http://victortrains.fotopic.net/c599303.html

The Alfa Pendular is a regular service and here the southbound train passes us at speed:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/16.jpg

As one gets closer to Porto the line is very close to the Atlantic Coast, which can be seen from the left hand side of the train, (although from my position in the cab I had an extended vision all round).

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/17.jpg

An interesting detail which can only be seen from the driver’s position is that the rear mirrors during the journey fold in automatically to increase the streamlining, and when stopping so they fold out again to provide a view down the platforms.

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After stopping at Vila Nova de Gaia on the south of the Douro river you cross the bridge to the north side:

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From the left of the bridge can be seen the old rail bridge reportedly designed by Eiffel which hás been unused for many years being unsafe for passage.

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Most of the rail network is electrified and thus when entering a large station overhead is a confusion of wires:

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And after an enjoyable journey lasting 3 ½ hours so we reached my destination of Porto Campanha where I would change trains for Régua.

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My hosts on the ALFA PENDULAR were most gracious and I offer them my sincere gratitude: it is not something that most travellers will experience and I was very lucky to be invited up front.

Matt_from_England

In a couple of years time the whole line from Lisbon to Porto will have been renewed and therefore travel between the two cities will take in the region of 2 ½ hours. Now it takes over 3 hours: once north of Ovar station maximum speed restrictions of 160 Kph are in force until arrival at Campanha. Disembarking the ALFA PENDULAR I dropped down into the tunnel beneath the lines and came up on the main platform where I checked on which line I would meet the Linha do Douro train. Having time I left the station and crossed the road to have a coffee and cake in one of the many coffee shops locally.

My train was to leave from Platform 12. A single 2nd class ticket to Régua costs 7.80 euros. Navigating the station is easy – and thus I waited in shadow beneath the canopies listening to the ticking clock, harsh sounding voices over the Tannoys and general conversations from others waiting for the train. I was in the north of Portugal and it was only the 2nd time I’d been to Porto. There was pimba music from someone’s radio, old people with caps eating a picnic on a platform bench cutting chunks of cheese and thick slices of bread with an old knife. An honest meal which made me feel hungry.

After a short while my train rolled in and all passengers disembarked: this is the terminal. My transport to be completely removed from the ALFA PENDULAR.

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After introductions with the driver once more was I invited to sit alongside him in the cab: my view ahead whilst we awaited the off in the station:

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In complete contrast to the modern train, the manual controls of the UTD 600 looked almost like a museum exhibit – like comparing vinyl records to CD…(or dare I say it 35mm film to digital)

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Bells ring, horns sound and the diesel engines rumble into life, there is a clicking noise as the speedometer winds up leaving the confines of Campanha station. Quickly out of Porto we are up to 120 Kph, the old train rattles and lurches, there is much more a sense of speed and with its flat fronted cab you get the impression of being right on the track itself. Initally the route is through the Porto suburbs, industrial areas and private sidings run off the main line. At various stations the train stops and the driver talks to station staff – here the train really is a part of the community unlike the ALFA PENDULAR which blasts through most stations with barely a sound from the horn. After Penefial, (where the old station building has been preserved) the scenery becomes greener as we leave the city behind us, small vineyards from private houses, the horizon begins to get more mountainous.

We enter Caíde station at 6.15 pm and this is the outpost of the electrified lines.

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Until this point the train control is made with coloured light signals – after Caíde it reverts to local control – telephone communication between stations, the go ahead given by the station master: old ways. Traditional ways.

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A local train from Régua is late, we sit waiting for it until we can go: there is a sense of anticipation as the unit throbs at the platform – from now on the line is single and passing places exist only at stations. The Douro line is not electrified – and so the older diesel units still run here: there has been talk of electrification meaning faster journey times and less pollution – 1 km equals 1 litre of fuel. There are four engines in this unit – four litres per km. But also hás there been talk of closing the line completely – a disaster for the local community and in terms of tourism: during the summer the train is packed. From Caíde station we run onto the single line and immediately through a tunnel:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/28.jpg

And it is then the Douro line really begins. From the modernity until Caíde it is like returning to the past:

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and slowly does the horizon open out and far in the distance are the mottled hillsides of the Douro valley.

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Winding through the countryside, the protest of wheels against the track, I open the window, it is hot in the cab. Clickety clack clickety clack go the wheels. Small rural stations where the stationmaster waves a flag for us to proceed. Old houses flash past and we sound the horn at unmanned crossings.

Livração sees the first of the narrow guage lines which creeps off into the countryside:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/31.jpg

Here we are approaching. The line once went as far as Arco de Baulhe but now concludes at Amarante: there hás been talk of a group reopening the line but it is unlikely to happen. Here is the little train awaiting the off at the platform next to ours:

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The narrow gauge of the track can be easily seen here and it looks like a toy train – it’s lines curve off left from the station:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/33.jpg

Whilst we bear right and follow the valley:

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All the while am I taking notes and enjoying the scenery immensely.

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It wasn’t the sunniest of days and here was overcast as we really enter the mountainous Douro valley region:

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Once out of Livração does the spectacular scenery begin and from this point only gets better:

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There is just time at station stops to take a photo of the Douro river before starting off again.

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Should you wish you could get off along the line and region a later train but I advise to sit on the right hand side of the train, pull the window down and snap away. Once again my view was somewhat priveledged:

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As we rode alongside the river:

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Across small viaducts, round sharp curves and delving between old tradional houses, green embankments and steep stone mountain sides on the left. The railway closely follows the Douro and looking back as the river snakes through the valley so does the line. Station chiefs give permission to proceed, blows his whistle and away we go once again:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/42.jpg

The vast vineyards of the Port houses at this time of year are vivid green and my driver points out one of the secrets of the Douro the shrine to “Santa Nossa Senhora Bom Viagem” on a rock cliff across the river – offering godspeed to the boats which once took the barrels down the river to the houses at Vila Nova de Gaia. Look very closely – you’ll see a small white patch: my camera isn’t good enough to capture it.

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Unless you have someone to point this out you’ll never see it (so perhaps take me next time?) Our journey has been marked with wonderful views and tunnels cut from the mountainsides, views to Port wine vineyards and small villages nestled into the valley sides, the blue Douro running alongside us but unfortunately my journey comes to an end at Régua, next time I’ll go further. I thank my host and wave the train off:

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At Régua on can take another narrow gauge line up to Villa Real, (The Corgo Line) which I was due to do the next day on a historic train but this afternoon the usual diesel motor units were bubbling away at the platform:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/45.jpg

For further views of the line please look again at Vitors site:

http://victortrains.fotopic.net/c780839.html

Across the platforms is an example of the steam locomotives which used to work the Corgo line:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/46.jpg

It is easy to obtain permission to look it over, and upon further exploration one can view other locomotives rusting away into oblivion at the old locomotive department:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/49.jpg

C.P are willing to sell these engines but the purchase would only be the first stage: they would require lengthy and possibly expensive restoration but what a sight they would make gleaming, steaming in the afternoon – one can only dream…

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In fact Régua still maintains all the infrastrcutures for steam train services:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/51.jpg

and

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for it is from this station that the preserved steam train runs the Douro line during summer months and the steam locomotive (obviously restored) awaits its call at the other end of the station.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/48.jpg

And here does the story close for as you know unfortunately I became ill overnight and was unable to take the Corgo train the next day. However Régua itself is a wonderful town on the banks of the Douro, vineyards on the other side are watched over by a huge Sandeman statue who protects his vines like some modern Bacchus. Narrow cobbled roads and small shops, pretty houses – I’d have liked the time to explore it more but the next morning I was still ill and I wonder now how I made it safely back to Lisbon.

I will be returning to this region in July to explore it further and later for a week specifically to ride these old scenic lines – if the government does eventually close them down it will be a great loss both to the community and tourists who flock to this área in summer. For those of you coming over for an extended holiday I thoroughly recommend taking the Douro line from Porto Campanha and should you wish a guide and travelling companion then let me know; it would be a pleasure to return and despite being a resident of the Lisbon área a little part of my heart belongs to the Douro Valley.

Matt

NEDSIRELAND

Great report, Matt! One time I would like to get off a train at Espinho, just south of Porto where there is a Golf and Beach Resort that one can see from the Alfa.

I have also come down to Porto from Vigo (via Valença do Minho) a couple of times. It's almost wall to wall vinyards. If you do that, buy a First Class ticket. When the train started filling up the Conductor began checking tickets and sent some Brasilenho Tourists back to 2nd class where they had to sit on their suitcases.

artnuvo

Matt,
I am interested in a day trip from Lisbon to Coimbra on the Alfa Pendular, with my starting point being the Avenida metro.

Is the easiest and quickest way the Avenida Liberdade metro to Baixa-Chiado and then the ten-minute walk you mentioned to St. Apolonia rail station? If so, on the return, in the evening is it safe to walk from St. Apolonia rail station to the Baixa-Chiado metro or should I simply take a cab to Ave Liberdade?

Is it too complicated and too time consuming to take the Avenida blue line to Baixa-Chaido, change to the green line to Alameda, and take the red line to Oriente?

lobo_mau

I don't believe in the 10 minutes walk between baixa-chiado to Santa Apolónia. I think it's more in the 30 minutes range.
If I were you, I'd do the metro line to Oriente and the Alfa Pendular from there on and vice versa.
If you think 2 changes in the metro are way too much, just give a short walk to Rossio in the green line and spare one change.
http://www.metrolisboa.pt/Default.aspx?tabid=79

artnuvo

thanks, lobo.

earlier today I posted some nyc info for matt for his march trip.

hope to see you for the mini ldc on april 7. your phone number was clipped off on fodor's.

[email protected]

gailhwwg

Matt: I have now spent the better part of a wekk reading your fascinating threads! Wow. We are the three women going to Portugal in May that are in our seventies. We have decided to fly into Porto for three nights and then spend the rest of the time in Lisbon doing day trips from both places (everyone who has responded to our inquiries has recommended fascinating places, as have you) We plan to use a "tours for you" group (unless you say they aren't any good) for our day trips, staying at at the Pestana in Lisbon-my Scots blood won't pay the $600 plus for the Lapa or the 4 Seasons. Is this a good hotel? Also, have yopu an idea of a good hotel for Porto? And, also, how do we get from Porto down to Lisbon- plane or train? Would love more ideas from all of you who are knowledgeable about these things. Again, money isn't terribly important, but $600 a day person person- we like out own rooms- is just too darn much! Also, can we come to one of your Lisbon Dining nights between May 16 and May 19th? Best, gailhwwg

bailey6325

Hi gailhwwg. To answer your questions about hotels in Porto and going to Lisbon from Porto... When we were in Porto, DH and I stayed at the Hotel da Bolsa which we really enjoyed. I have more details in photos in my trip report if you care to check out. Also, we took a train from Porto to Lisbon and it was super easy. It cost about $25 pp and took about 3 hours. We just went to the train station in Porto the day before and purchased our tickets for the next day.

gailhwwg

Dear Bailey: Thanks for the info.I will definitely trake the train. And I will look into the hotel you mentioned. Everybody is so great about answering!