Spectacular Scotland
Sep 21st, 2006, 08:37 AM
#1
Original Poster
Spectacular Scotland
Scotland – beautiful, breathtaking, spectacular Scotland. Many, many thanks to all you Scotland experts who took the time and energy to shape this trip for us – it was amazing!
(For those who want to know whether or not to read on -- my husband and I stayed in Edinburgh for four nights (he attended a conference) then we drove to Port Appin for a night , spent two nights in Broadford,Skye and drove back and spent the night in Linlithgow before we left. )
Less than a week home and I am still in that dreamy state in which I want to relive our glorious trip. Forgive me if this is a long-winded.
EDINBURGH
Day 1 – arrive at the Sheraton Grand (great service, wonderful beds, good location, sorely-outdated bathrooms)
Nap for a bit and then we’re off to the imposing Edinburgh Castle -- great tour included in the price.
But, the confluence of grey weather, jet lag and hunger left us feeling rather depressed. We sat at the castle’s café, depressed by the history of death and violence that seemingly defined the castle’s history. Hot tea and a dry scone with clotted-cream and preserves left us feeling better and we ended our tour of the castle on a high note (literally and figuratively) at the top of the castle beside the chapel named after a Queen (Margaret?) who helped travelers.
Discussion question – How do others feel about the “Disney-esque” displays of the dungeons and crown jewels exhibit? I actually enjoyed the stylized dungeon display. But, the other, while I know it was meant to bring history alive made me uncomfortable. It seemed almost, I don’t know, primitive, for it to be in such an important historical structure. I am probably in the minority with this opinion. Any comments?
We started walking down the royal mile and surprisingly began running into people we knew that were also in Edinburgh attending the conference. Soon enough we ended up at the lobby of the Caledonian Hilton (great location) and found ourselves with a group of eight on a Saturday night with no reservations. We walked and waited and finally ate at Browns where half the people had a fabulous steak and mushroom pie and the other had disappointing steaks.
Day 2
Group dynamics ended up playing a big part in the Edinburgh part of the trip. But, I soon realized that the company of friends far outweighed some of the bad touring decisions. We asked a hotel concierge at the Menzies Belford (clean, fifteen minute walk to Prnicess street, the fourth floor is basement level) to hire a guide and driver to take us on a day trip to Stirling Castle and Loch Lommond. We thought that at 30# an hour the cost for the six of us would work out close to a Rabbies tour and offer greater flexibility. Not the best decision -- the driver was only a driver and while polite was not a guide and had an exceedingly poor sense of direction.
Stirling Castle – the free tour was amazing. We all also enjoyed the live tapestry weaving. I loved a live “talk” they had in which a knight, being dressed by his squire tells stories about the castle history. We went back to the driver and since time was ticking went off to Loch Lommond. We were all starving. But, decided to wait to eat at Luss a town I had read was charming. Unfortunately, after hours of driving in the rain our driver had not found the town or been able to get us to anyplace near the bonnie banks. Finally, we ended up at a tacky touristy place on the loch called, I think, the “Lucky Duck” It was stuffy inside. Luckily, it stopped raining. So we picked up tuna and prawn sandwiches and ate outside. The air smelled clean; the sun began to peep out and soon a large rainbow arched over bonnie Loch Lommond. All was well.
That night a group of ten met at the lobby of the Sheraton where the wonderful concierge made us last minute reservations at Lazio’s, an Italian restaurant across the way. We all ended up pleased with the meals. My salmon in cream sauce over parpadelle was a perfect contrast to the gloriously sharp taste of the rocket salad I had started with.
Then we went off to the see the fireworks over Edinburgh castle. It was the finale to the Edinburgh festival and was an impressive display enhanced by the concert in the gardens.
Day 3
Revisited Edinburgh Castle on a bus tour organized by the conference hosts. Learned lots of new and interesting stuff. Then we were off to St. Andrews! It was our first sunny day and it was wonderful! We took a train and a cab to get there. The golfers in the group were on a pilgrimage and had a great time being photographed in the classic pose on the bridge. The course is beautiful and the castle and cathedral ruins were like something out of a Magritte painting. There was no castle tour scheduled at the time we visited. But, I asked, and a young man who worked there offered to give us a private tour. Fish and chips at the Dunvegan Pub were crisp and fresh and made for a great dinner. My husband had seen the pub featured on some golf show and was thrilled to be there. We arrived late back into Edinburgh and hung out at a pub across the street from the Caledonian Hilton (Ryan's?). FYI – Last call for drinks is sadly at midnight.
Day 4
Higlights -- Real Mary King's Close tour -- Lots of fun
Museum of Scotland -- Not to be missed
Museum of Modern Art -- Don't waste your time.
Mussel and Steak house -- great seafood.
More details to follow.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: noe847
Date: 09/18/2006, 09:37 am
topping for comment later.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 09:41 am
yeah! Youre back!
Please tell me more- I leave in exactly 2 weeks!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 09:45 am
What is Real Mary King's Close tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: caroline_edinburgh
Date: 09/18/2006, 11:00 am
"Last call for drinks is sadly at midnight." Depends where you go It varies from pub to pub, day to day, month to month... The only absolute rule nowadays is no alcohol before 1230pm on Sundays.
"Museum of Modern Art -- Don't waste your time." Well, I like it ! Did you go into the (temporary) Mapplethorpe exhibition, which is currently taking up a lot of the space ? Did you go upstairs ? Do you do the sculture trail in the grounds ? Did you do the Dean Gallery across the road ? Surely you must have liked the Landform ?!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: amelie
Date: 09/18/2006, 04:17 pm
Bookmarking for myself to hear the rest.
I wouldn't mind more info on the Real Mary King's Close also. I've had this website bookmarked, and have debated it. (I've already been on a Witchery Tour and a Mercat Tour, but my parents have never been to any).
I feel like fish n chips now!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 04:51 pm
please post more..... holding my breath
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 07:40 pm
still holding....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 12:36 am
The Real Mary's King Close is a tour that is (they say) an historically accurate glimpse into what life might have been like in one particular close (narrow street)several hundred years ago. The guides are often drama students and it is very vivid,eye-opening and entertaining. It has a five-star rating from the tourist board. The four of us who went really enjoyed it.
Also, the Royal Museum of Scotland was fabulous!! The highlights tour we went on was incredilbly informative. My friend (an avid museum goer) and I were very impressed with the wonderful and creative way in which things were displayed. I think our charming, very academic guide added a lot to our enjoyment.
About the modern museum -- perhaps I was a little harsh in blowing it off in that way. But, while the landform was very impressive, inside the main building seemed tired. And the permananent collection was less inspiring to me than other similar collections I've seen. No, I take that back -- there were amusing and whimsical pieces in the top floor that made us smile and a stunning piece that uplifted the soul. It was done in bright greens and blues and dominated a back wall. Does anyone know what I am talking about? I believe the artist is German.
We did not go to the Van Gogh exhibit at the Dean nor did we go to the Mapplethorpe exhibit. Things were very expensive so we decided to stick with the free exhibits. Also, I must admit to being a little tainted because this was for me (because of the aforementioned group dynamics) second choice. It ended up taking the place of , much to my regret, a visit to Holyrood Palace, which many of the other convention attendees raved about.
Caroline, the other issue that I really regret was not being able to to visit the wonderful restaurants you suggested.
Things I would do differently:
Call places the day before I intended to visit them. Several sights closed before the guide books said they would.
Buy a phone card soon after arrival. We ended up buying one at the post office but not before we had already spent too much on calls.
Arrange for car delivery to the hotel. Apparently, through auto europe it does not cost extra to pick up in the city and drop off at the airport.
This would have been really helpful to us on the day we left.
Stevegenie please feel free to ask any specific questions. I'll try to get my next installment in sooner.
To be continued
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: 5alive
Date: 09/19/2006, 03:27 am
Misha it has been some time since I went to Scotland.. While I loved Holyrood, one thing I remember is that the guides were very scripted, stiff, not interested in answering questions with all but the most terse answer. Hopefully that's changed, because as beautiful as Holyrood is, you really need some historical background.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: caroline_edinburgh
Date: 09/19/2006, 08:14 am
Hi Misha. Was it this one ? http://www.nationalgalleries.org/col...objectId=67591
It is one of my favourites.
Sorry, forgot to say before that I am so glad you had a good time : you will have to come back when you can suit yourself about what to do !
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/19/2006, 08:51 am
Cant wait to hear about your driving route!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 12:59 pm
Yes Caroline, I love that piece!! I have to look into whether or not there are any lithographs available of it. Also, I loved the work of many contemporary artists I saw in Skye -- but, I'll get back to that.
5alive-- good. I'll hope the guides only get better as time goes on.
Day 5
I report on this day rather sheepishly. The route was perfect! All who suggested it were very correct in how wonderful it was. However, our many late nights and my husband's early mornings lead to our finding ourselves at the airport to pick up our car at 2:00
Needless to say we were unable to meander the way we would have liked. (I was very proud of my restraint. And, I only said "I told you we should have left early," one time (possibly two).)
But, we were off armed with a wonderful Phillip's atlas and a print out of Sheila's/Janis' driving route. We had to modify the route so our first stop was charming Culross. It is an enchanting town that has been delightfully restored to the way it would have looked in the 1600's (I think.) We poked about in a glass shop, inhaled deeply of the scents wafting over the wall of the small castle garden, took pictures and wished we could hang out there longer. But, off we went.
I sighed (deeply) as we passed the detour for Killin/Falls of Dochart. But, sighs soon turned to gasps of delight. All I can say is WOW! The landscapes became increasingly more dramatic and we constantly kept pointing things out to each other. We didn't stop at the viewpoints to take pictures because we were determined to reach the Glencoe visitors center before the 6:00 close time listed in my guidebook.
To be continued...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/19/2006, 01:44 pm
misha - could you post your route?
Also, did you see any of the Trossachs, Loch lommond, and did you end up stopping in Stirling on your way back?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 02:01 pm
Below is the route that Sheila outlined. We were late and had to modify the one on the way up and the one on the way down ended up being a little too long for us to complete. But, they are great routes.
"I suggest you cross the river and pass Dunfermilne (opportunity:- Dunfermilne Abbey) then pass Culross (big hit with the mediaevialists) then on round to Dunblane, then Doune (and its castle), on to Callendar and through Strathyre; past Balqhuidder and the Rob Roy Centre. Stay on the main road- option of a wee side trip down to Killin and the Falls of Dochart.
By the time you get to Crianlarich you're seriously into the mountains and lovely scenery. Take the right fork at Tyndrum and cross Rannoch Moor and then down through Glencoe. Stop at the visitor centre.
Turn left at Ballachulish, you're only a few miles north of Port Appin. Do make sure you get there in time to spend some quality time in and around the village.
Next day, drive north to Fort William and then drive west through Glenfinnan, past the monument (opportunity) and the visitor centre. The beaches and views at Arisaig are wonderful. Get the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale and have a lovely time on Skye. Again, I assume you know what you're going to do on Skye?
Leaving Skye come off over the bridge and south past Dornie for the , then come on south past the compulsory Eilean Donan for a picture. You come past Glen Shiel- and a good side trip is to go across the hill to Glenelg, and see the Brochs.
Past the Five Sisters, and on down to Invergarry, then batter on south as far as Oban, which has a very nice distillery visit.
Keep south through Kilmartin and down to Lochgilphead, up Loch Fyne to Inverary- castle and village both worth a stop- over the Rest & Be Thankful to Tarbet on Loch Lomond, down to Ballaoch; cross over to Stirling and along the south side of the River Forth to Linlithgow. Long day and we could cut it."
We did Striling on Day two of the trip-see above and drove through the Trossachs on the way up. Both well-worth it
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/19/2006, 02:06 pm
thanks misha...
So you took daytrips to Stirling and Loch lommond.
I would like to encorporate them into my driving itinereary and am unsure what the best route would be. Still trying to figure it out.
Cant wait to hear about your time on skye!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 02:36 pm
Noe posted a great route that incorporated Stirling and Loch Lommond. Take a look at my "Leaving in 7days... " thread.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/21/2006, 12:33 am
Stevegenie,
If you're travelling to Skye you may not need to worry about incorporating Loch Lommond into your itinerary. In my opinion it really pales in comparison to what you'll see in the NW. Stirling Castle is terrific though.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/21/2006, 01:00 am
Day 5 continued -- Port Appin
Well, we got to the Glencoe visitor's center at 5:15 and thought we had plenty of time before the 6 o'clock closing the guide book had listed. Alas, it closed at 5 so off we went.
We stopped at the Castle Stalker -- Oddly enough it is located behind a cafe/rest stop. It was beautiful!
Then off we continued our beautiful drive to Port Appin and the Pierhouse hotel. The views from the hotel's restaurant were beautiful it overlooks water, a small island and a lighthouse.
The service was very good and rooms were immaculate. I would suggest making a reservation for the restaurant and requesting a window seat.
My husband had some wonderful lobster Thermidor and I had a simply seasoned grilled trout. It was fresh and delicate.
Day 6 -- Skye
The next day after a delicious hearty breakfast we stopped at a small craft store and the Port Appin Post office. Then continued our drive to the Glenfinnan monument. Would it be too redundant to rave again about the landscapes and their beauty?
We climbed a short distance to the viewpoint to admire the views of the monument and photograph the famous "Harry Potter" bridge.
We stopped at Aisirag to explore a bit. The little golf course across from the beach a little north of the main village was particularly charming. Golfers were flanked on one side by Highland cattle and on the other by the beach. We oohed and aahed and toook picture after picture.
Then we were off to the ferry. The ferry was expensive it cost us about $50 to get over to Sleat. But, we felt it was worth it because otherwise we might have missed Sleat.
What a delightful surprise to drive off the ferry and be greeted by a kilted piper! I'm not sure it happens all the time but it was quite a welcome.
Our first stop was Armadale Castle and gardens. It was close to closing time so my husband and I had the place to ourselves. I can't accurately explain how beautiful the grounds and the ruins are. I think the startling contrasts are what make it so breathtaking. Standing behind the castle you look out through the windows at the deep blue water. The stone walls now shelter wild flowers and plants, yet, the garden in the front of the castle is perfectly manicured. We spent lots of time there just absorbing.
The we were off again to find "that road" in Sleat.
To be continued
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/21/2006, 12:31 pm
misha, I meant to ask you...
Did you book your tours on King Mary's Close and Misty Isle boats ahead of time? or once you got to Scotland?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/21/2006, 12:35 pm
We called a day ahead for Mary King's Close and we arrived at Elgol half and hour before sailing for the Misty Isles boat trip. That was the highlight of or entire trip.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(For those who want to know whether or not to read on -- my husband and I stayed in Edinburgh for four nights (he attended a conference) then we drove to Port Appin for a night , spent two nights in Broadford,Skye and drove back and spent the night in Linlithgow before we left. )
Less than a week home and I am still in that dreamy state in which I want to relive our glorious trip. Forgive me if this is a long-winded.
EDINBURGH
Day 1 – arrive at the Sheraton Grand (great service, wonderful beds, good location, sorely-outdated bathrooms)
Nap for a bit and then we’re off to the imposing Edinburgh Castle -- great tour included in the price.
But, the confluence of grey weather, jet lag and hunger left us feeling rather depressed. We sat at the castle’s café, depressed by the history of death and violence that seemingly defined the castle’s history. Hot tea and a dry scone with clotted-cream and preserves left us feeling better and we ended our tour of the castle on a high note (literally and figuratively) at the top of the castle beside the chapel named after a Queen (Margaret?) who helped travelers.
Discussion question – How do others feel about the “Disney-esque” displays of the dungeons and crown jewels exhibit? I actually enjoyed the stylized dungeon display. But, the other, while I know it was meant to bring history alive made me uncomfortable. It seemed almost, I don’t know, primitive, for it to be in such an important historical structure. I am probably in the minority with this opinion. Any comments?
We started walking down the royal mile and surprisingly began running into people we knew that were also in Edinburgh attending the conference. Soon enough we ended up at the lobby of the Caledonian Hilton (great location) and found ourselves with a group of eight on a Saturday night with no reservations. We walked and waited and finally ate at Browns where half the people had a fabulous steak and mushroom pie and the other had disappointing steaks.
Day 2
Group dynamics ended up playing a big part in the Edinburgh part of the trip. But, I soon realized that the company of friends far outweighed some of the bad touring decisions. We asked a hotel concierge at the Menzies Belford (clean, fifteen minute walk to Prnicess street, the fourth floor is basement level) to hire a guide and driver to take us on a day trip to Stirling Castle and Loch Lommond. We thought that at 30# an hour the cost for the six of us would work out close to a Rabbies tour and offer greater flexibility. Not the best decision -- the driver was only a driver and while polite was not a guide and had an exceedingly poor sense of direction.
Stirling Castle – the free tour was amazing. We all also enjoyed the live tapestry weaving. I loved a live “talk” they had in which a knight, being dressed by his squire tells stories about the castle history. We went back to the driver and since time was ticking went off to Loch Lommond. We were all starving. But, decided to wait to eat at Luss a town I had read was charming. Unfortunately, after hours of driving in the rain our driver had not found the town or been able to get us to anyplace near the bonnie banks. Finally, we ended up at a tacky touristy place on the loch called, I think, the “Lucky Duck” It was stuffy inside. Luckily, it stopped raining. So we picked up tuna and prawn sandwiches and ate outside. The air smelled clean; the sun began to peep out and soon a large rainbow arched over bonnie Loch Lommond. All was well.
That night a group of ten met at the lobby of the Sheraton where the wonderful concierge made us last minute reservations at Lazio’s, an Italian restaurant across the way. We all ended up pleased with the meals. My salmon in cream sauce over parpadelle was a perfect contrast to the gloriously sharp taste of the rocket salad I had started with.
Then we went off to the see the fireworks over Edinburgh castle. It was the finale to the Edinburgh festival and was an impressive display enhanced by the concert in the gardens.
Day 3
Revisited Edinburgh Castle on a bus tour organized by the conference hosts. Learned lots of new and interesting stuff. Then we were off to St. Andrews! It was our first sunny day and it was wonderful! We took a train and a cab to get there. The golfers in the group were on a pilgrimage and had a great time being photographed in the classic pose on the bridge. The course is beautiful and the castle and cathedral ruins were like something out of a Magritte painting. There was no castle tour scheduled at the time we visited. But, I asked, and a young man who worked there offered to give us a private tour. Fish and chips at the Dunvegan Pub were crisp and fresh and made for a great dinner. My husband had seen the pub featured on some golf show and was thrilled to be there. We arrived late back into Edinburgh and hung out at a pub across the street from the Caledonian Hilton (Ryan's?). FYI – Last call for drinks is sadly at midnight.
Day 4
Higlights -- Real Mary King's Close tour -- Lots of fun
Museum of Scotland -- Not to be missed
Museum of Modern Art -- Don't waste your time.
Mussel and Steak house -- great seafood.
More details to follow.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: noe847
Date: 09/18/2006, 09:37 am
topping for comment later.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 09:41 am
yeah! Youre back!
Please tell me more- I leave in exactly 2 weeks!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 09:45 am
What is Real Mary King's Close tour
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: caroline_edinburgh
Date: 09/18/2006, 11:00 am
"Last call for drinks is sadly at midnight." Depends where you go It varies from pub to pub, day to day, month to month... The only absolute rule nowadays is no alcohol before 1230pm on Sundays.
"Museum of Modern Art -- Don't waste your time." Well, I like it ! Did you go into the (temporary) Mapplethorpe exhibition, which is currently taking up a lot of the space ? Did you go upstairs ? Do you do the sculture trail in the grounds ? Did you do the Dean Gallery across the road ? Surely you must have liked the Landform ?!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: amelie
Date: 09/18/2006, 04:17 pm
Bookmarking for myself to hear the rest.
I wouldn't mind more info on the Real Mary King's Close also. I've had this website bookmarked, and have debated it. (I've already been on a Witchery Tour and a Mercat Tour, but my parents have never been to any).
I feel like fish n chips now!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 04:51 pm
please post more..... holding my breath
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/18/2006, 07:40 pm
still holding....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 12:36 am
The Real Mary's King Close is a tour that is (they say) an historically accurate glimpse into what life might have been like in one particular close (narrow street)several hundred years ago. The guides are often drama students and it is very vivid,eye-opening and entertaining. It has a five-star rating from the tourist board. The four of us who went really enjoyed it.
Also, the Royal Museum of Scotland was fabulous!! The highlights tour we went on was incredilbly informative. My friend (an avid museum goer) and I were very impressed with the wonderful and creative way in which things were displayed. I think our charming, very academic guide added a lot to our enjoyment.
About the modern museum -- perhaps I was a little harsh in blowing it off in that way. But, while the landform was very impressive, inside the main building seemed tired. And the permananent collection was less inspiring to me than other similar collections I've seen. No, I take that back -- there were amusing and whimsical pieces in the top floor that made us smile and a stunning piece that uplifted the soul. It was done in bright greens and blues and dominated a back wall. Does anyone know what I am talking about? I believe the artist is German.
We did not go to the Van Gogh exhibit at the Dean nor did we go to the Mapplethorpe exhibit. Things were very expensive so we decided to stick with the free exhibits. Also, I must admit to being a little tainted because this was for me (because of the aforementioned group dynamics) second choice. It ended up taking the place of , much to my regret, a visit to Holyrood Palace, which many of the other convention attendees raved about.
Caroline, the other issue that I really regret was not being able to to visit the wonderful restaurants you suggested.
Things I would do differently:
Call places the day before I intended to visit them. Several sights closed before the guide books said they would.
Buy a phone card soon after arrival. We ended up buying one at the post office but not before we had already spent too much on calls.
Arrange for car delivery to the hotel. Apparently, through auto europe it does not cost extra to pick up in the city and drop off at the airport.
This would have been really helpful to us on the day we left.
Stevegenie please feel free to ask any specific questions. I'll try to get my next installment in sooner.
To be continued
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: 5alive
Date: 09/19/2006, 03:27 am
Misha it has been some time since I went to Scotland.. While I loved Holyrood, one thing I remember is that the guides were very scripted, stiff, not interested in answering questions with all but the most terse answer. Hopefully that's changed, because as beautiful as Holyrood is, you really need some historical background.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: caroline_edinburgh
Date: 09/19/2006, 08:14 am
Hi Misha. Was it this one ? http://www.nationalgalleries.org/col...objectId=67591
It is one of my favourites.
Sorry, forgot to say before that I am so glad you had a good time : you will have to come back when you can suit yourself about what to do !
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/19/2006, 08:51 am
Cant wait to hear about your driving route!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 12:59 pm
Yes Caroline, I love that piece!! I have to look into whether or not there are any lithographs available of it. Also, I loved the work of many contemporary artists I saw in Skye -- but, I'll get back to that.
5alive-- good. I'll hope the guides only get better as time goes on.
Day 5
I report on this day rather sheepishly. The route was perfect! All who suggested it were very correct in how wonderful it was. However, our many late nights and my husband's early mornings lead to our finding ourselves at the airport to pick up our car at 2:00
Needless to say we were unable to meander the way we would have liked. (I was very proud of my restraint. And, I only said "I told you we should have left early," one time (possibly two).)
But, we were off armed with a wonderful Phillip's atlas and a print out of Sheila's/Janis' driving route. We had to modify the route so our first stop was charming Culross. It is an enchanting town that has been delightfully restored to the way it would have looked in the 1600's (I think.) We poked about in a glass shop, inhaled deeply of the scents wafting over the wall of the small castle garden, took pictures and wished we could hang out there longer. But, off we went.
I sighed (deeply) as we passed the detour for Killin/Falls of Dochart. But, sighs soon turned to gasps of delight. All I can say is WOW! The landscapes became increasingly more dramatic and we constantly kept pointing things out to each other. We didn't stop at the viewpoints to take pictures because we were determined to reach the Glencoe visitors center before the 6:00 close time listed in my guidebook.
To be continued...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/19/2006, 01:44 pm
misha - could you post your route?
Also, did you see any of the Trossachs, Loch lommond, and did you end up stopping in Stirling on your way back?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 02:01 pm
Below is the route that Sheila outlined. We were late and had to modify the one on the way up and the one on the way down ended up being a little too long for us to complete. But, they are great routes.
"I suggest you cross the river and pass Dunfermilne (opportunity:- Dunfermilne Abbey) then pass Culross (big hit with the mediaevialists) then on round to Dunblane, then Doune (and its castle), on to Callendar and through Strathyre; past Balqhuidder and the Rob Roy Centre. Stay on the main road- option of a wee side trip down to Killin and the Falls of Dochart.
By the time you get to Crianlarich you're seriously into the mountains and lovely scenery. Take the right fork at Tyndrum and cross Rannoch Moor and then down through Glencoe. Stop at the visitor centre.
Turn left at Ballachulish, you're only a few miles north of Port Appin. Do make sure you get there in time to spend some quality time in and around the village.
Next day, drive north to Fort William and then drive west through Glenfinnan, past the monument (opportunity) and the visitor centre. The beaches and views at Arisaig are wonderful. Get the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale and have a lovely time on Skye. Again, I assume you know what you're going to do on Skye?
Leaving Skye come off over the bridge and south past Dornie for the , then come on south past the compulsory Eilean Donan for a picture. You come past Glen Shiel- and a good side trip is to go across the hill to Glenelg, and see the Brochs.
Past the Five Sisters, and on down to Invergarry, then batter on south as far as Oban, which has a very nice distillery visit.
Keep south through Kilmartin and down to Lochgilphead, up Loch Fyne to Inverary- castle and village both worth a stop- over the Rest & Be Thankful to Tarbet on Loch Lomond, down to Ballaoch; cross over to Stirling and along the south side of the River Forth to Linlithgow. Long day and we could cut it."
We did Striling on Day two of the trip-see above and drove through the Trossachs on the way up. Both well-worth it
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: steviegene
Date: 09/19/2006, 02:06 pm
thanks misha...
So you took daytrips to Stirling and Loch lommond.
I would like to encorporate them into my driving itinereary and am unsure what the best route would be. Still trying to figure it out.
Cant wait to hear about your time on skye!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: misha2
Date: 09/19/2006, 02:36 pm
Noe posted a great route that incorporated Stirling and Loch Lommond. Take a look at my "Leaving in 7days... " thread.
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Author: misha2
Date: 09/21/2006, 12:33 am
Stevegenie,
If you're travelling to Skye you may not need to worry about incorporating Loch Lommond into your itinerary. In my opinion it really pales in comparison to what you'll see in the NW. Stirling Castle is terrific though.
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Author: misha2
Date: 09/21/2006, 01:00 am
Day 5 continued -- Port Appin
Well, we got to the Glencoe visitor's center at 5:15 and thought we had plenty of time before the 6 o'clock closing the guide book had listed. Alas, it closed at 5 so off we went.
We stopped at the Castle Stalker -- Oddly enough it is located behind a cafe/rest stop. It was beautiful!
Then off we continued our beautiful drive to Port Appin and the Pierhouse hotel. The views from the hotel's restaurant were beautiful it overlooks water, a small island and a lighthouse.
The service was very good and rooms were immaculate. I would suggest making a reservation for the restaurant and requesting a window seat.
My husband had some wonderful lobster Thermidor and I had a simply seasoned grilled trout. It was fresh and delicate.
Day 6 -- Skye
The next day after a delicious hearty breakfast we stopped at a small craft store and the Port Appin Post office. Then continued our drive to the Glenfinnan monument. Would it be too redundant to rave again about the landscapes and their beauty?
We climbed a short distance to the viewpoint to admire the views of the monument and photograph the famous "Harry Potter" bridge.
We stopped at Aisirag to explore a bit. The little golf course across from the beach a little north of the main village was particularly charming. Golfers were flanked on one side by Highland cattle and on the other by the beach. We oohed and aahed and toook picture after picture.
Then we were off to the ferry. The ferry was expensive it cost us about $50 to get over to Sleat. But, we felt it was worth it because otherwise we might have missed Sleat.
What a delightful surprise to drive off the ferry and be greeted by a kilted piper! I'm not sure it happens all the time but it was quite a welcome.
Our first stop was Armadale Castle and gardens. It was close to closing time so my husband and I had the place to ourselves. I can't accurately explain how beautiful the grounds and the ruins are. I think the startling contrasts are what make it so breathtaking. Standing behind the castle you look out through the windows at the deep blue water. The stone walls now shelter wild flowers and plants, yet, the garden in the front of the castle is perfectly manicured. We spent lots of time there just absorbing.
The we were off again to find "that road" in Sleat.
To be continued
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Author: steviegene
Date: 09/21/2006, 12:31 pm
misha, I meant to ask you...
Did you book your tours on King Mary's Close and Misty Isle boats ahead of time? or once you got to Scotland?
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Author: misha2
Date: 09/21/2006, 12:35 pm
We called a day ahead for Mary King's Close and we arrived at Elgol half and hour before sailing for the Misty Isles boat trip. That was the highlight of or entire trip.
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Sep 22nd, 2006, 09:09 AM
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"Discussion question – How do others feel about the “Disney-esque” displays of the dungeons and crown jewels exhibit?"
Interesting that you referenced Disney - My son's exact words were "This castle reminds me of Disneyworld". Glad to know our observations were also noted by someone else.
Interesting that you referenced Disney - My son's exact words were "This castle reminds me of Disneyworld". Glad to know our observations were also noted by someone else.
Sep 22nd, 2006, 09:22 AM
#4
Original Poster
We passed and then back tracked to find that beautiful scenic road in Sleat that so many have mentioned here.
It has to be one of the most beautiful drives in the world! Or, at least, it seemed like that to us. We were intoxicated by the beautiful views and the glorous weather. If you are on Sleat or love scenic drives I would seriously consider it.
As we drove to Broadford I was filled with trepidation. Tigh an Dochais is new and I had not seen any reviews for it. However, as soon as I stepped inside, all my hesitations dissolved.
It's clean and serene. They offer little extras like heated floors and heated towel racks, lovely bath products and crisp, fresh cotton sheets.
Neil Hope, who owns the B&B with his wife, welcomed us warmly and served us with tea/coffee and some cookies. We then went off to find one of the area restaurants he suggested and ended up having a delicious meal of steak pies at a local restaurant converted from a pub.
It has to be one of the most beautiful drives in the world! Or, at least, it seemed like that to us. We were intoxicated by the beautiful views and the glorous weather. If you are on Sleat or love scenic drives I would seriously consider it.
As we drove to Broadford I was filled with trepidation. Tigh an Dochais is new and I had not seen any reviews for it. However, as soon as I stepped inside, all my hesitations dissolved.
It's clean and serene. They offer little extras like heated floors and heated towel racks, lovely bath products and crisp, fresh cotton sheets.
Neil Hope, who owns the B&B with his wife, welcomed us warmly and served us with tea/coffee and some cookies. We then went off to find one of the area restaurants he suggested and ended up having a delicious meal of steak pies at a local restaurant converted from a pub.
Sep 22nd, 2006, 03:57 PM
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Have been enjoying your trip report. We just returned from a trip that included 12 days in Scotland. I agree that the 'scenic road' on the Sleat peninsula is one of the best. I only mention it to those who express a real enthusiasm for Skye. And when will you be returning? For me, not soon enough!
Sep 30th, 2006, 03:17 PM
#8
"that road" isn't numbered. If approaching from the Bridge/Broadford you would turn right approx 2 miles beyond Isleornsay. If coming from the ferry/Armadale, you turn left at Ostaig/Kilbeg.
The road loops across to the west side of the Sleat peninsula and back to the main road. If you have road atlas or a detailed map you will see it is really the only road on Sleat besides the A851 main road. Can't really miss it . . . . . I connects the A851 w/ Ord and Traskavaig.
The road loops across to the west side of the Sleat peninsula and back to the main road. If you have road atlas or a detailed map you will see it is really the only road on Sleat besides the A851 main road. Can't really miss it . . . . . I connects the A851 w/ Ord and Traskavaig.
Oct 1st, 2006, 08:34 PM
#11
Original Poster
Thanks Danna.
dbaker I just saw your response to my "discussion question: -- I'm glad I'm not the only one who felt that way.
Day 7
Took a luxurious shower at Tigh an Dochais. The bathroom is large and immaculate and the water is hot and powerful. But, the best part is that you can look out at the water while you're in the shower. (Of course, you can pull down the shades/blinds if you prefer)
As we stepped out of our room the alluring aromas of fresh baked goods greeted us. The breakfast at Tigh an Dochais was the best on the trip. One can have assorted cheeses and juices and muffins to start. After that Neil offers the choice of tea, coffee, or mango-passsion fruit smoothies followed by a hot made-to-order breakfast.
All the guests we met over our two breakfasts at Tigh an Dochais (four couples) expressed their utter delight with the place.
After eating eggs and a delighfully poached, delicately smoky fish from a local Rick Stein "food hero" we were ready to go to Elgol to take a boat trip. We left after creating a plan for the day with Neil who was very well informed.
To be continued...
dbaker I just saw your response to my "discussion question: -- I'm glad I'm not the only one who felt that way.
Day 7
Took a luxurious shower at Tigh an Dochais. The bathroom is large and immaculate and the water is hot and powerful. But, the best part is that you can look out at the water while you're in the shower. (Of course, you can pull down the shades/blinds if you prefer)
As we stepped out of our room the alluring aromas of fresh baked goods greeted us. The breakfast at Tigh an Dochais was the best on the trip. One can have assorted cheeses and juices and muffins to start. After that Neil offers the choice of tea, coffee, or mango-passsion fruit smoothies followed by a hot made-to-order breakfast.
All the guests we met over our two breakfasts at Tigh an Dochais (four couples) expressed their utter delight with the place.
After eating eggs and a delighfully poached, delicately smoky fish from a local Rick Stein "food hero" we were ready to go to Elgol to take a boat trip. We left after creating a plan for the day with Neil who was very well informed.
To be continued...
Nov 10th, 2006, 09:51 AM
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Should anyone require a car and driver for Edinburgh and beyond (Stuart will drive you anywhere your heart desires and wait whilst you have lunch or dinner)if this is your preference.
We visited Edinburgh in March and stayed for 8 days at The Howard. We did not rent a car for our stay in Edinburgh as it was our intention to sightsee the city thoroughly, but, we decided that we would also like to visit the country surrounding Edinburgh. The Howard hotel arranged for the car and driver, and we were truly impressed. He was so knowledgeable, and we would definitely use him again.
His name is Stuart M. Wight and he can be contacted at www.chrisandachauffeurdrive.com
As I mentioned he is excellent, and we plan to revisit Scotland in 2007, and we will once again use his services. I hope this helps anyone who may need a car/van and driver.
We visited Edinburgh in March and stayed for 8 days at The Howard. We did not rent a car for our stay in Edinburgh as it was our intention to sightsee the city thoroughly, but, we decided that we would also like to visit the country surrounding Edinburgh. The Howard hotel arranged for the car and driver, and we were truly impressed. He was so knowledgeable, and we would definitely use him again.
His name is Stuart M. Wight and he can be contacted at www.chrisandachauffeurdrive.com
As I mentioned he is excellent, and we plan to revisit Scotland in 2007, and we will once again use his services. I hope this helps anyone who may need a car/van and driver.
