althom1122

I'm going back and forth on the tour vs independent option. You may remember, I'm the mom pushing 50 and planning a trip with my 24-year-old daughter in February. Can I REALLY do it independently just as cheaply? If so... hm... maybe. I'd enjoy company some of the time, but I'm afraid I'd be unhappy with a regimented tour. Ok, here are my questions (don't laugh at the dumb ones!).

- So we arrive in Bangkok probably late in the evening and if we don't have a tour group to meet us, what do we do? It seems very scary to me! How do we get to the hotel? Can someone arrange to pick us up? Can we just get a taxi like we'd do in the U.S.? Will drivers speak English? Will we get ripped off? I'm assuming we can get money at an ATM at the airport?

- For touring Bangkok, do I need to have a tour guide arranged for us in advance? (One of the ones recommended here - Ratt, for instance?) Or can we join day tours by going through our hotel after we're already there?

- From Bangkok, we'll probably head north (itinerary proposal coming in a minute) to Chiang Mai. Again... how do we make the transfer? Have our hotel get us a taxi to the airport? And ditto when we get to Chiang Mai - how do we get to our hotel there?

I know these are probably really stupid questions, but I guess what I'm primarily looking for is reassurance! Can we do this by ourselves having never been to Asia?

Here's what I'm thinking about for a rough itinerary (I know you'll probably yell at me for trying to do too much.)

3 nights Bangkok
2 nights Chiang Mai
2 nights Chiang Rai or Mae Hong Son
3 nights Luang Prabang
3 nights Siem Reap
2 nights Bangkok

As for arranging tours in northern Thailand - again - can I just wait until I get there and go through the hotel for elephant rides, bamboo raft trips, hilltribe treks, etc., or should I arrange such things in advance?

I'm thinking we'll get the Thai Air Discovery pass for the Bangkok-Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai-LP, LP-Siem Reap, Siem Reap-Bangkok flights.

I plan to try doing hotels fairly cheaply - maybe $100 in Bangkok, but averaging around $50 the rest of the trip. Seem reasonable?

And lastly, airfares... one reason I had considered a tour is that airfares seem outrageous. I did a few checks and can't seem to find anything for under around $1300 from Baltimore. Is that in the ballpark?

Would love any and all advice.

Thanks!
Karen (and Julie)

Flyboy

We've used Northwest WorldVacations several times to Bangkok and while I'm not certain that you can put together everything that you have listed, there were some advantages:

1. Lower airfares were available by packaging with the vacation arm of the airline than those that could be obtained by simply buying tickets separately.

2. Airport transportation was part of the package. (But in answer to your question, there are tons of taxis in Bangkok and they're cheap. Just be sure to reach an understanding about what you will be paying before you get in. You can probably find some some ballpark estimates from people here.)

Note that there are tour packages and there are TOUR PACKAGES. In our case, it wasn't a group tour, but a travel package that didn't involve regimentation of any kind.

There are tours you can incorporate into your booking, but there may be no particular advantage to doing that, in my opinion. Tours are readily available through hotels in Bangkok and Thailand has a well-developed tourism industry in general.

On our second visit, we just took taxis to places we wanted to visit in Bangkok because it was easy and less expensive than bus tours.

That's a start. Others here will know much more!

althom1122

If we can do this pretty cheaply, I could probably add another two or three days. My budget is about $6,000 for both of us. Doable? If we added a couple days, it would allow us to slow down a bit - and make Kathie happy.

Kathie

althom, you're so right, I'll be happier (and so will you!) if you slow down a bit.

None of your questions are dumb, they just reflect your natural anxiety going someplace you've never been before.

Taxis in Bangkok are cheap and easy. At the airport, there is a taxi line. Just ask them to use the meter and say yes when they ask if you want them to use the expressway (another 60-80 baht in tolls). If you are concerned that you'll be exhausted and don't want to deal with a taxi, you can book ahead for a "limo" or arrange for your hotel to pick you up (usually the most expensive option) or arrange for someone like Julie taxi to meet you. You can get money from an ATM at the airport. Lots of people worry about getting ripped off. If you use the taxi line, the person directing you to the taxi will tell you how much and talk to your driver, who will probably speak only a little English. If you have concerns once you get to your hotel, just ask the bellman to translate for you and make sure what you are being asked is reasonable. Typically, it's not a problem.

You do not need a tour guide arrange in advance. If you want Ratt, you'll need to contact her in advance, as she is often booked up. You can sign up for group tours at your hotel if you'd like.

I'm one of those "fiercely independent" travelers, and the first thing I want to do in a new place is to learn to take public transport. The hotel conceirge or front desk people can help with this. They have maps, can write out for you what stop to get off, etc. Taxis are cheap, and I use taxis a lot too. Make sure you take a card from your hotel with the name and address in Thai woth you when you go out.

You'll take a taxi from your hotel to the airport. Most hotels have a taxi line outside. Use someone from the taxi line, as the guys just hanging arouond on the street are the ones most likely to want to take you to a jewelry store (the right answer to this is "no" and get out of the taxi). Let the bellman or doorman of your hotel help you with taxis.

Likewise, when you arrive in CM, you'll just get a taxi from the airport. And yes, your hotels can help you with any things you want to do like elephant rides, etc. Arranging those kinds of activities in country will save you about half over booking ahead.

The Bangkok Air Discovery pass will be perfect for you. The only places it won't take you are Chaing Rai and Mae Hong Son. (You know I can't resist saying that you may be better off cutting out these two days - not enough time and transport will take hours of driving and ad one night each to LP and SR).

I think you should be able to do better than $1300 from Baltimore. Call a couple of airlines. I use United, and they should have good connections out of baltimore. I'm expecting an airfare sale in November...

Keep asking questions! You really can do it on your own!

Guenmai

I totally agree with Kathie. I'm your age, but when I first did S.E.Asia...back in the mid/late 90s, I did it totally alone and I'm female. I just started reading up months in advance and making an outline of what I wanted to do and see in each place that I went too. And this was way before I even knew that this forum existed. I bought travel books and maps of the various places I wanted to go to and basically memorized different areas on the map. I'm one for really going over maps. I then did hotel research and made a list of hotels I was interested in, as I always do,and then called AmExp and gave them MY list of desired hotels and had them personally call each hotel to answer questions I might have had about the hotel. Then I had them hold the hotels with a credit card. 99% of the time I DO NOT prepay. On that particular trip I went from L.A.-Singapore-Ubud,Bali-Singapore-Changmai-Bangkok-L.A. The hotel I got in Bali was dumpy. The owner had died about a half year before I got there and the place had gone way down. His wife was grief strickened and trying to handle everything. But, it wasn't a problem. I hadn't prepaid anything. I stayed there two nights and then told a staff member that I wasn't satisfied and the staff member found me a very nice place,hand-carried my luggage to the new place,and swore me to secrecy about not telling anyone that he'd referred me elsewhere...since he could get fired. But, you know something's wrong with a place when, while a staff member is showing you your room, he suddenly tells you that guests have complained that the place is not that clean. He was right...it wasn't that clean. So, I was lucky to be able to move to a clean and nice place.It was a BIG improvement over the first place. Having a lot of previous travel experience helped plan for that trip. I've been traveling alone, overseas, since I was 17. So, if I could do it with few problems and back in the day with no e-mail, forums,computers...like back in the 70s and part of the 80s...and no cell phones... then I'm sure you can do it, too...especially these days when it's SO much easier. Back in the day, I had to think on my toes a lot and if I ran out of money, which I did a few times, I knew to go to a monestery where they, back then, had to take you in and give you a place to sleep..... So, in the airport in Bangkok, there are machines in the baggage area where you just insert American bills and Baht pop out. I usually take 20-dollar bills. Then there are ATM machines these days...which I personally don't use overseas....I'm old school and still insist on traveler's checks and cash. But, many prefer ATM machines. So, if I were you, I would do it independently. I can't even imagine going on a tour. And as far as Bangkok goes, I wouldn't split the days up...I'd do all 6 in one stretch...slow down and RELAX. Your schedule is making me dizzy. Happy Travels!

OJudy

We did a mother-and-daughter trip to Bangkok this past April. It was great! I made arrangements on Expedia, and the airfare plus 10-nights hotel (inc. breakfast, all taxes and fees, etc.) cost us $950 each from San Francisco. Quite a deal! The hotel was very nice and in a terrific shopping area, although it was not one of the places normally mentioned on this board. D'Ma Pavilion - you can check it out on tripadvisor.com. We ended up spending all 10 days in and around Bangkok, taking several side trips that were easily arranged at a travel desk in our hotel. I had hoped to spend some time in Chiang Mai, however, it was the Thai New Year, and making transportation and hotel arrangements at the last minute from Bangkok became a problem. Next time!

My daughter and I have taken trips together to London and Beijing, in addition to Bangkok, and will be going to New York City together in a couple weeks. It's a wonderful experience, and we are approximately the same ages as you and your daughter. You will have a great time, but like others on the board, I'd suggest you cut back a little, relax, and enjoy yourselves. Also, Bangkok is very very hot and humid, and I think you will find a slower pace much more pleasant all around.

mrwunrfl

I'm sure that you are going to be ok because you are asking the right questions.

Can you do this, having never been to Asia? Sounds like you've done some travel in the U.S. If you've travelled to Chicago or L.A. or Des Moines or wherever and worked out the logistics then sure, you can manage arriving in Bangkok. Not much difference anywhere, except for the currency exchange, so maybe it's more like arriving in Paris or Buenos Aires than Des Moine. It's the same only <i>different</i>

Bangkok is a megalopolis and BKK is a (THE?) transport hub in SE Asia. Millions of people have arrived there with the same questions and they worked it out (that's millions in the last YEAR). There are always inexpensive ways to get to/from an airport because the employees have to get there. There are always people who will try to take advantage of travellers because there is a lot of money at the airport. Which is also why the police and other authorities are there to keep it running and keep the travellers safe: it is a big business.

If any of the above sounds at all sarcastic I certainly didn't mean it that way. Exactly the opposite. Rather than being scary I am suggesting that with your experience (or even without it) you can arrive there in command.

MaryW

As everyone is saying - you will be just fine. It always seems a bit daunting when you don't know a place. If you choose to go alone then its very easy to get from the airport to a hotel - as Kathie says taxi, car or hotel transport. A couple of extra points - taxi first - when you leave the baggage pickup you will enter an area open to the public but roped off to give travellers a bit of room - thats where you'll fine the bank booths. Turn left and go into the general area and there is a sign saying taxis - outside there will be a queue - when you get to the front there is a little booth that will ask where you are going - they write it down for the driver. You pay the driver at the end of the journey plus an additional 50bt for this service (above the meter price) If you use the toll ways then you pay the tolls - the driver will ask you for first 20bt to hand over to the toll booth and then 40 bt for the second (depends of course just where you are heading) - so you will need to get some small money when you change money at the airport. Sometimes when you go outside the airport door there are a few taxis trying to pick people up without going through the booth system. Fine but make sure they use the meter. Lately there has been a lot of this going on and the taxi queues get longer and longer. A taxi should cost between 200 and 300 bt into Bangkok with tolls of about 60 bt and the 50 bt surcharge.

If you want to pay a bit more you can get what is called a limo - you can prebook but there are always people standing just where you join the public crowded area trying to get customers. They will change you between 600 and 700 bt - upfront for a good and comfortable car. If you use the tollway then you still pay the extra 60bt. Another option is to get your hotel to send a car for you but this will probably cost about twice again.

I usually use taxis but my last trip used the limos each time because the taxi queues were enormous - we had great and very comfortable cars. Usually I also use taxis back to the airport - just ask the doorman on your hotel to flag one down. However if you have a lot of luggage they can be a bit tricky - many have gas (LGP) tanks in the boot and its very difficult to fit in the luggage. If you decide on the limo you can either prebook at the airport(and pay) or phone them the day before. They are very efficient usually.

There is a website for the airports in Thailand which shows plans and may help you a bit - www.airportthai.co.th

MaryW

I forgot to mention that in places like Siem Reap and LP there is usually a set price for taxis leaving the airport so you won't get ripped off- at least no more than everyone else using that airport.

althom1122

Thanks so much for such great advice - it's always the details that are scary. I've traveled quite a bit in Europe (some on my own) and even went to Africa (with a group) but Asia seems particularly daunting - because of the alphabet, I think. In Europe, I always knew I could show someone a word in a guidebook and they'd be able to figure out what I meant. But in Asia... not. I checked Travelocity last night and found a fare for less than $1200 on British Air that goes through London rather than west. Would that make sense? And has anyone used Wayfarer for daytours? How important is location in Bangkok? I see everyone here tends to prefer a river location. But what about somewhere else? I don't want to spend a lot - maybe $100? I'll be asking TONS of questions until I get this nailed down!

glorialf

You can definitely do this on your own. Some answers (most of which is just me agreeing with others)
1. You can get a taxi at the airport but I would definitely recommend using one of the limo services and prearrange it. Bob can tell you who to use.
2. If you want Ratt (who isn't really a guide) you need to book her in advance. Same is probably true of others suggested on this forum. You can definitely join a tour which can be booked through your hotel.
3. You can take a taxi to your hotel in chiang mai or arrange a pick up ahead of time through your hotel. However, you will need a driver in Chiang Mai in order to see a lot of the sights so get some names from this forum and book that in advance. That driver can also take you to wherever you want to go in northern thailand.

I think you're trying to do too many places. I would probably eliminate Luang Prabang and add the time to northern thailand and bangkok.

Your budget -- you should be able to easily get hotels in that range. I do prefer the river in Bangkok but that might be hard on your budget. Maybe stay on the river at the Marriott one of the times you are there and in town (where you can probably stay for under $100) for the other.

What kinds of hotels do you like? Bib, small, resorty, modern? If you like small hotels you might consider Old Bangkok Inn in Bangkok which looks wonderful and sounds like a place where you can talk with other people. And in Chiang Rai I would suggest Baan Orapin.

When are you going?

althom1122

We tend to prefer small, family-run hotels - although in Bangkok, we might enjoy a big-city hotel! And we're going in February, probably the second or third week.
Eliminate Luang Prabang?? OH NO!!

It really appeals to me! I'm thinking of adding at least one day in northern Thailand but keeping LP - i don't think I can bear to cut it! I KNOW we're probably trying to do a little much, but at least I've avoided any one-nighters...
Fern Resort in Mae Hong Son looks fabulous. Am torn between Mae Hong Son and Chiang Rae - have read all the threads on both of them and can't quite decide. The option of crossing into Burma is very appealing, but Mae Hong Son sounds fabulous, too. I've considered the boat to LP. Anyone done that?
Keep the comments coming! Talking about it (now that it's starting to seem like a reality!) is so exciting!
(I'm easily amused.)

Kathie

A couple more thoughts in response to your last comments. Don't go to Mae Hong Son (or to the Golden Triangle) in order to cross into Burma. While you can do this as a day trip, it's rather like visiting any other border town (think Tijuana if you've been there) so has little of the charm and all of the problems.

Kathie

Oops - posted too soon.

My other comment is about taking the boat to LP. To take the &quot;slow&quot; boat is two full days, with an overnight in a village. That would take up all the time you've allocated to LP, and you wouldn't even see the town. The fast boat is awful - very dangerous, and I wouldn't recommend it.

Sad as it seems, I think you will have to winnow out some of the wonderful things you want to do or see as it just isn't practical. Remember that most of us return to SE Asia again and again because there is so much to see and do.

glorialf

Sjip going into Burma or to the border. I know several people who have stayed at Fern Resort and loved it.

If you can add 3 days to your trip you can do it all.

althom1122

Really, Gloria? You think we could do it all if we added three days? And, ok, I'll drop the boat ride to LP idea, Kathie, and stick with the Discovery Pass.
So if we definitely want to see Bangkok, northern Thailand (either CM/CR or CM/Mae Hong Son), LP, and Siem Reap - how would you divide up the time? Say... 18 nights. I get templed out easily - so while I definitely want to see Siem Reap, do not want to linger too long. (My daughter would tell you I don't like to linger ANYWHERE too long!) I could probably swing 3 weeks off work. And my daughter is a hippie child of the '60s just born in the wrong decade who can easily manage 3 weeks (to include travel time). So... further ideas?

artmarth

Hi Karen &amp; Julie--- My wife &amp; I are seniors who will be taking a 36 day tour , starting in BKK, to CR, CM, on to Burma, to Laos, VN &amp; Cambodia, departing 2/27. It is our 1st time to se Asia, although we have been to China.
We did a custom itinerary working with a VN based tour company that has been exeptionally helpful. We will be met a each A/P by a guide &amp; driver and travel in an A/C car.
We believe it is quite economical, and we, as you, did not opt for a tour, nor did we want to be totally on our own.
If you have any interest or questions, please feel free to email me at artmarth @comcast.net. We'll try and answer any questions you may have.

Kathie

If I was going to add three nights (which would definitely make this more do-able) I'd add one night in LP, one in Northern Thailand and one in Bangkok.

glorialf

If you have 3 weeks I would do:
7 days bangkok
4 days Chiang Mai
3 days Mae Hong Son or Chiang Rai
4 days Luang Prabang
3 days Siem reap

Kathie

(Gloria, she only has 18 nights; the three weeks included travel time)