hanoi and luang prabang trip
May 27th, 2007, 03:06 AM
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hanoi and luang prabang trip
I just got back from two weeks in Hanoi and Luang Prabang, and in case it helps had some thoughts about both places.
First, thanks to Kathie and Crellston for their good advice in various posts.
Hanoi:
1. I took Kathie's recommendation and stayed at the Desyloia Hotel. It was perfect for me -- quiet, air-conditioned, super helpful front desk, good food, and I like the location -- a little south and east of Lenin park, which took it out of the mainstream bustle but not too far to walk. I considered the higher end hotels but feel this place strikes the perfect balance between great accomodations and a reasonable price.
2. Hello Hanoi -- this service was recommended by someone on this board. It's a non-profit group that pairs high school and college age students with tourists. The students act as guides in exhange for you concentrating on speaking english with them. I had two -- a college age guy and a girl in high school. They were both terrific. I spent more time with the guy, whose name is Thanh, b/c he had a more flexible schedule. He was incredible - knowledgeable, advanced English speaker who wondered about the definition of words like 'spectrum'. We had some fascinating conversations about Vietnamese and American culture, perspectives I never would have gotten with a commercial guide. I can't recommend the service enough. I paid for all the entry fees and meals, but he refused to take any money -- I felt kind of bad about that but he was adamant.
3.Massage -- There are probably a million good places, but I ended up liking a place called QT on the west side of Lenin park -- in a row with boutique cosmetic stores. Great staff, great massage, and less than $30 for an hour.
Luang Prabang
1. Thanks to Crellston for a 3 Nagas recommendation - great place, and the junior suite their is a must if you are a couple trying to get away for a romantic holiday.
2. Lao Spirit Resort -- this is an eco-resort outside Luang Prabang. Staying there was the high point of my trip. Although the resort is only about 45 minutes drive from LP, it feels like you've fallen off the face of the earth -- beautiful and remote. There are only 5 bungalows at the resort, made from native teak, with beautiful views of the mountains. There are things to do like elephant rides (which I didn't do) and trekking (which I did). It is in the jungle so be prepared for a serious dose of nature -- a gazillion different insects chirp and sing at night, and I apparently shared my bungalow with a gecko, who would break out in a weird song about once an hour, which woke me up every time, but after three nights I came to love the night sounds and found it all relaxing. For me Lao Spirit combined a lot of good things -- eco-friendly, more remote and somewhat away from the tourist mainstream, great hiking / mountain biking, and a lot of peace and quiet.
Hope this helps with someone's planning.
First, thanks to Kathie and Crellston for their good advice in various posts.
Hanoi:
1. I took Kathie's recommendation and stayed at the Desyloia Hotel. It was perfect for me -- quiet, air-conditioned, super helpful front desk, good food, and I like the location -- a little south and east of Lenin park, which took it out of the mainstream bustle but not too far to walk. I considered the higher end hotels but feel this place strikes the perfect balance between great accomodations and a reasonable price.
2. Hello Hanoi -- this service was recommended by someone on this board. It's a non-profit group that pairs high school and college age students with tourists. The students act as guides in exhange for you concentrating on speaking english with them. I had two -- a college age guy and a girl in high school. They were both terrific. I spent more time with the guy, whose name is Thanh, b/c he had a more flexible schedule. He was incredible - knowledgeable, advanced English speaker who wondered about the definition of words like 'spectrum'. We had some fascinating conversations about Vietnamese and American culture, perspectives I never would have gotten with a commercial guide. I can't recommend the service enough. I paid for all the entry fees and meals, but he refused to take any money -- I felt kind of bad about that but he was adamant.
3.Massage -- There are probably a million good places, but I ended up liking a place called QT on the west side of Lenin park -- in a row with boutique cosmetic stores. Great staff, great massage, and less than $30 for an hour.
Luang Prabang
1. Thanks to Crellston for a 3 Nagas recommendation - great place, and the junior suite their is a must if you are a couple trying to get away for a romantic holiday.
2. Lao Spirit Resort -- this is an eco-resort outside Luang Prabang. Staying there was the high point of my trip. Although the resort is only about 45 minutes drive from LP, it feels like you've fallen off the face of the earth -- beautiful and remote. There are only 5 bungalows at the resort, made from native teak, with beautiful views of the mountains. There are things to do like elephant rides (which I didn't do) and trekking (which I did). It is in the jungle so be prepared for a serious dose of nature -- a gazillion different insects chirp and sing at night, and I apparently shared my bungalow with a gecko, who would break out in a weird song about once an hour, which woke me up every time, but after three nights I came to love the night sounds and found it all relaxing. For me Lao Spirit combined a lot of good things -- eco-friendly, more remote and somewhat away from the tourist mainstream, great hiking / mountain biking, and a lot of peace and quiet.
Hope this helps with someone's planning.
May 27th, 2007, 07:57 AM
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Thanks for the review, Matt. I'm glad my suggestions were helpful.
How did you arrange your time at Lao Spirit? Do they have a website or did you have to book through an agent in LP. And do I remember correctly that Lao Spirit provides transport to and from?
How did you arrange your time at Lao Spirit? Do they have a website or did you have to book through an agent in LP. And do I remember correctly that Lao Spirit provides transport to and from?
May 27th, 2007, 08:41 AM
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Thanks for the report!
I am so glad someone has finally taken me up on the recommendation to contact www.hellohanoi.org! They are such a fantastic organization and I had such a great experience with Linh!
Cheers!
I am so glad someone has finally taken me up on the recommendation to contact www.hellohanoi.org! They are such a fantastic organization and I had such a great experience with Linh!
Cheers!
May 27th, 2007, 09:54 AM
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you must have posted your 'hello hanoi' experience which gave me the idea. they were really terrific. so many tourist experiences are generic, but contact with these folks was really unique. thanks for the suggestion.
May 27th, 2007, 06:23 PM
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kathie,
i booked directly through their website,(http://www.lao-spirit.com/). they were very responsive. they provided transportation to the resort from where i was staying in luang prabang, and provided transportation to the airport for my flight back to hanoi. the cost both times was U.S. $10.
i booked directly through their website,(http://www.lao-spirit.com/). they were very responsive. they provided transportation to the resort from where i was staying in luang prabang, and provided transportation to the airport for my flight back to hanoi. the cost both times was U.S. $10.
May 28th, 2007, 03:13 AM
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Crellston,
The bungalows are roomy with a large bath area with tub, and indoor and outdoor showers. Each bungalow has a veranda facing the mountains, which are spectacular. The veranda has sitting chairs where I spent a fair amount of time reading or just looking at the mountains. There are glass-paned french sliding doors that open onto the veranda. No A.C. - ceiling fans and mosquito netting. Late May is getting toward the hot season, and I was very comfortable. The 5 bungalows are staggered along a slope so each has a good view of the mountains. They are in a large garden area, connected by stone paths. It's about a 3 minute walk to the restaurant, which is open just about whenever you want it to be. Overall, very well executed. I wish I had of timed things to spend more nights there, and fewer at 3 Nagas, and you know 3 Nagas is a nice place. Hope that helps.
The bungalows are roomy with a large bath area with tub, and indoor and outdoor showers. Each bungalow has a veranda facing the mountains, which are spectacular. The veranda has sitting chairs where I spent a fair amount of time reading or just looking at the mountains. There are glass-paned french sliding doors that open onto the veranda. No A.C. - ceiling fans and mosquito netting. Late May is getting toward the hot season, and I was very comfortable. The 5 bungalows are staggered along a slope so each has a good view of the mountains. They are in a large garden area, connected by stone paths. It's about a 3 minute walk to the restaurant, which is open just about whenever you want it to be. Overall, very well executed. I wish I had of timed things to spend more nights there, and fewer at 3 Nagas, and you know 3 Nagas is a nice place. Hope that helps.
May 29th, 2007, 02:26 AM
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No, didn't meet a Linh. The girl's name was Hien, who preferred to be called by the more western 'Hannah'. I spent a day with her and Thanh, then another day with Thanh. Hannah told me she missed some classes the day she was with me, so I got the impression that didn't fly for 2 days. Thanh was on a college schedule and was more independent (plus had a motor scooter!). Great time with both.
