Mala Mala Trip Report May 2007
Jun 4th, 2007, 08:17 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mala Mala Trip Report May 2007
African Report Mala Mala for 12 nights, May 2007
We flew from Boise Idaho to Minneapolis and Minneapolis to Amsterdam on NWA. We had business class tickets due to the lengthy journey and the fact that I had broken back and wrist in January. The seats on the flight to Amsterdam were not functional and the entertainment centers went out as well. We were a little disappointed, but were able to get instructions from the stewardess on "how to manually" adjust the seats in upright and reclining position. NWA did give us a 25K mileage certificate for our inconvenience. So as one might suspect, I did not sleep on the flight over the Atlantic.
The next leg of the flight from Amsterdam to Johannesburg was on KLM and was very nice, working chairs that had an almost flat bed position, a nice selection of entertainment options and excellent service and foods. We arrived in Johannesburg and were greeted by Yolanda a travel representative arranged by our booking agent. She assisted us across the street to the Intercontinental Sun Hotel and had already checked us in and arranged for someone to assist us to domestic flights on SAA to Mala Mala for the next morning. We had a nice breakfast that morning in hotel and walked over to the domestic flight departures for SAA to Mala Mala. They weighed our two duffle bags together and gave us a tag. The flight was delayed about an hour, so we visited with another couple who happened to be on their way to Mala Mala as well. The husbands discussed cameras. I was able to carry on a laptop computer and small backpack onto the SAA flight. My husband had a camera bag.
We had a smooth flight to Mala Mala and were greeted by the Rattray's (owners of Mala Mala) who happened to be at the lodge that week. We were upgraded to Sable Camp, had lunch and then headed out for the first game drive. Our guide was amazed that we had come for 12 nights with only two duffle bags as luggage. We found that what we had brought was sufficient and were glad that we had not over packed. We took advantage of the daily laundry service as well.
The first few days were pleasant and we had warm weather, reaching 90 F during the days. But as the days past a cold front blew in and the weather turned very cold . We were glad that we had the fleece coats, gloves and scarfs to keep us warm in the open jeeps. For the first 4 or 5 days we were accompanied in our jeep by persons who were staying only a couple of nights. Therefore, we spent the first 4 days rushing around in the jeep trying to see the Big 5. We saw the Big 5 nearly everyday and managed to see the Mala Mala 7 by the 5th day. (Mala Mala 7 includes Big 5 + wild dogs & cheetah).
We saw kudo, waterbuck and nyala near our bungalow at Sable Camp, as well as, baboons. One nite we had roaring lions which lasted until 5AM. There were elephants, duikers and kudo that came up near the swimming pool, during afternoon lunches.
We were fortunate to see some very interesting action: leopards mating, lions mating, 5 lions next to jeep that were charged by a rhinoceros that came out of the reeds, a group of 7 lionesses stalking at night and drinking at the river, wild dogs running, and a young male leopard playing with a porcupine.
We spent the last 5 days at Rattray's and it was a nice change of scenery, a different guide and setting. We enjoyed both camps and even managed to use the gym every other day. Watching elephants while walking on treadmill was quite exciting. We used the internet at Ratrray's that was in our room. The internet at Sable Camp was almost non functional and the one at Main Camp worked but took about 30 minutes to log onto email page. Nearly half of our game drives we were the only two people in the jeep and this gave us an opportunity to pace our drives, allowing for nice viewing and photo shooting of birds and other animals, as well as get to know our guides and trackers.
Each day was a new adventure seeing many large and small mammals, as well as birds and reptiles. Some of the more unusual ones that we saw were: secretary bird, servel (small cat), tortoise, porcupine, puff adder, cameleon, little blue heron, wildebeest, giraffe, zebras, and many more. I even spotted a Baird's owl on morning drive as well as a female cheetah, before the tracker or guide sited them. My husband is still amazed that I saw that owl.
We saw a great variety of lions and leopards and rhinos. The first evening we saw the two Roller coaster Males with two Eyrefield female lionesses, one of which looked pregnant. We encountered one Roller Coaster Male lions on the road another evening. We also encountered the other Roller Coaster Male lion and one of females mating the same day that we sighted his brother with a very full belly sunning near a water hole. We saw 5 Charleston female lions at rivers edge, that scattered when a rhino charged them from the reeds. We saw the 7 styx females one evening devouring a kudo in a matter of seconds. As well as these same females at a water hole the night before. We saw 7 or 8 different leopards and I am not able to site their names: two sisters, grandmother to two sisters & male mating, single female in southern end of reserve stalking impala, young male leopard cub learning a lesson when poking a porcupine. The young male leopard cub ended up with quills in his paw. We saw at least 13 different rhinos and lots of elephants and giraffes.
In my opinion Mala Mala still remains one of the best places to view game. Nothing like riding in an open jeep, over the brush and off road while chasing wild dogs, or trailing the lions or leopards stalking game. Overall, a very enjoyable, yet relaxing trip and already counting the days until we can return again.
The flight back to states was via Frankfurt and San Francisco. It took 39 hours from the time we left Mala Mala and unfortunately got little rest on the flights as we had children in the area near us that seemed to sense when you were about to doze off. But can't complain, at least we had leg room and good service in business class. We actually flew over Boise on way to San Francsico and felt like parachuting out at that point. But that leg of trip was non-stop from Frankfurt to San Francisco and we had a 5 hour layover until we got back on plane and flew back 1 hour to Boise.
Hope to post some of the photos soon. I took some with a backup Cannon S2 and did ok, for my first photo shoots. But it was so hard to take photos, when the action was so captivating. We have so many photos to go through, before I post some of the better ones.
Thanks again to all those who helped with questions when I was planning this trip, your advise was invaluable.
-Granny Joan
We flew from Boise Idaho to Minneapolis and Minneapolis to Amsterdam on NWA. We had business class tickets due to the lengthy journey and the fact that I had broken back and wrist in January. The seats on the flight to Amsterdam were not functional and the entertainment centers went out as well. We were a little disappointed, but were able to get instructions from the stewardess on "how to manually" adjust the seats in upright and reclining position. NWA did give us a 25K mileage certificate for our inconvenience. So as one might suspect, I did not sleep on the flight over the Atlantic.
The next leg of the flight from Amsterdam to Johannesburg was on KLM and was very nice, working chairs that had an almost flat bed position, a nice selection of entertainment options and excellent service and foods. We arrived in Johannesburg and were greeted by Yolanda a travel representative arranged by our booking agent. She assisted us across the street to the Intercontinental Sun Hotel and had already checked us in and arranged for someone to assist us to domestic flights on SAA to Mala Mala for the next morning. We had a nice breakfast that morning in hotel and walked over to the domestic flight departures for SAA to Mala Mala. They weighed our two duffle bags together and gave us a tag. The flight was delayed about an hour, so we visited with another couple who happened to be on their way to Mala Mala as well. The husbands discussed cameras. I was able to carry on a laptop computer and small backpack onto the SAA flight. My husband had a camera bag.
We had a smooth flight to Mala Mala and were greeted by the Rattray's (owners of Mala Mala) who happened to be at the lodge that week. We were upgraded to Sable Camp, had lunch and then headed out for the first game drive. Our guide was amazed that we had come for 12 nights with only two duffle bags as luggage. We found that what we had brought was sufficient and were glad that we had not over packed. We took advantage of the daily laundry service as well.
The first few days were pleasant and we had warm weather, reaching 90 F during the days. But as the days past a cold front blew in and the weather turned very cold . We were glad that we had the fleece coats, gloves and scarfs to keep us warm in the open jeeps. For the first 4 or 5 days we were accompanied in our jeep by persons who were staying only a couple of nights. Therefore, we spent the first 4 days rushing around in the jeep trying to see the Big 5. We saw the Big 5 nearly everyday and managed to see the Mala Mala 7 by the 5th day. (Mala Mala 7 includes Big 5 + wild dogs & cheetah).
We saw kudo, waterbuck and nyala near our bungalow at Sable Camp, as well as, baboons. One nite we had roaring lions which lasted until 5AM. There were elephants, duikers and kudo that came up near the swimming pool, during afternoon lunches.
We were fortunate to see some very interesting action: leopards mating, lions mating, 5 lions next to jeep that were charged by a rhinoceros that came out of the reeds, a group of 7 lionesses stalking at night and drinking at the river, wild dogs running, and a young male leopard playing with a porcupine.
We spent the last 5 days at Rattray's and it was a nice change of scenery, a different guide and setting. We enjoyed both camps and even managed to use the gym every other day. Watching elephants while walking on treadmill was quite exciting. We used the internet at Ratrray's that was in our room. The internet at Sable Camp was almost non functional and the one at Main Camp worked but took about 30 minutes to log onto email page. Nearly half of our game drives we were the only two people in the jeep and this gave us an opportunity to pace our drives, allowing for nice viewing and photo shooting of birds and other animals, as well as get to know our guides and trackers.
Each day was a new adventure seeing many large and small mammals, as well as birds and reptiles. Some of the more unusual ones that we saw were: secretary bird, servel (small cat), tortoise, porcupine, puff adder, cameleon, little blue heron, wildebeest, giraffe, zebras, and many more. I even spotted a Baird's owl on morning drive as well as a female cheetah, before the tracker or guide sited them. My husband is still amazed that I saw that owl.
We saw a great variety of lions and leopards and rhinos. The first evening we saw the two Roller coaster Males with two Eyrefield female lionesses, one of which looked pregnant. We encountered one Roller Coaster Male lions on the road another evening. We also encountered the other Roller Coaster Male lion and one of females mating the same day that we sighted his brother with a very full belly sunning near a water hole. We saw 5 Charleston female lions at rivers edge, that scattered when a rhino charged them from the reeds. We saw the 7 styx females one evening devouring a kudo in a matter of seconds. As well as these same females at a water hole the night before. We saw 7 or 8 different leopards and I am not able to site their names: two sisters, grandmother to two sisters & male mating, single female in southern end of reserve stalking impala, young male leopard cub learning a lesson when poking a porcupine. The young male leopard cub ended up with quills in his paw. We saw at least 13 different rhinos and lots of elephants and giraffes.
In my opinion Mala Mala still remains one of the best places to view game. Nothing like riding in an open jeep, over the brush and off road while chasing wild dogs, or trailing the lions or leopards stalking game. Overall, a very enjoyable, yet relaxing trip and already counting the days until we can return again.
The flight back to states was via Frankfurt and San Francisco. It took 39 hours from the time we left Mala Mala and unfortunately got little rest on the flights as we had children in the area near us that seemed to sense when you were about to doze off. But can't complain, at least we had leg room and good service in business class. We actually flew over Boise on way to San Francsico and felt like parachuting out at that point. But that leg of trip was non-stop from Frankfurt to San Francisco and we had a 5 hour layover until we got back on plane and flew back 1 hour to Boise.
Hope to post some of the photos soon. I took some with a backup Cannon S2 and did ok, for my first photo shoots. But it was so hard to take photos, when the action was so captivating. We have so many photos to go through, before I post some of the better ones.
Thanks again to all those who helped with questions when I was planning this trip, your advise was invaluable.
-Granny Joan
Jun 4th, 2007, 09:22 AM
#3
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good report, thanks. Were the "couple of nights" guests newlywed/honeymooners? I had some vehicle companions like that and they were sooooo silly. And a general aggravation in wanting to take videos of EVERYTHING. (My trip report in progress).
regards - tom
regards - tom
Jun 4th, 2007, 09:38 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you had a fantastic time! My husband and I are going to MM for four nights in July, so I was glad to read that you had such a good experience. Looking forward to seeing your photos! Welcome back!
Jun 4th, 2007, 09:50 AM
#5
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi GJ and thanks for the report. Much appreciated and glad you and your husband had a nice time and saw lots of wildlife.
Did they charge you for extras such as cokes and laundry and wines etc at Mala Mala?
Warm regards
Mohammed
(Sri Lanka)
Did they charge you for extras such as cokes and laundry and wines etc at Mala Mala?
Warm regards
Mohammed
(Sri Lanka)
Jun 4th, 2007, 10:01 AM
#7
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Joan
Sounds like you had a great time. 12 nights is a huge luxury at MM, and did give you plenty of drives with no other people always a major plus. I have been there ten times and never seen the 7 in one visit. About 2% of visitors actually get that lucky. I was reading the cyberdiar for the period of your stay and you did really well.
Thanks for the report.
Sounds like you had a great time. 12 nights is a huge luxury at MM, and did give you plenty of drives with no other people always a major plus. I have been there ten times and never seen the 7 in one visit. About 2% of visitors actually get that lucky. I was reading the cyberdiar for the period of your stay and you did really well.
Thanks for the report.
Jun 4th, 2007, 02:45 PM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mohammed,
They do NOT charge for laundry. They do charge for drinks such as cokes and wine. We aren't big coke drinkers and the lemonade and ice tea was available. We had wine and beer which you would normally pay for on most safaris I believe.
Lily, I am sure you will have a great time at MM in July. Is this your first visit to MM?
Granny Joan
They do NOT charge for laundry. They do charge for drinks such as cokes and wine. We aren't big coke drinkers and the lemonade and ice tea was available. We had wine and beer which you would normally pay for on most safaris I believe.
Lily, I am sure you will have a great time at MM in July. Is this your first visit to MM?
Granny Joan
Jun 4th, 2007, 03:37 PM
#9
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We are also going to MM from JNB. Does the flight only allow duffle bags? We are unfortunately going for just three days so we do not need to take much with us, but I did not realize that we needed to repack into duffles.
Jun 4th, 2007, 06:45 PM
#10
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12 nights-how wonderful. Isn't that Shakespeare?
Nice to get an upgrade to Sable. Even nicer to have your tremendous wildlife sightings. The poor leopard cub with the porcupine quills in his paw. Oh well, one of those invaluable lessons.
Wild dogs running! Did you know where to or from what?
Good job with the owl and cheetah!
Thanks for the report!
Nice to get an upgrade to Sable. Even nicer to have your tremendous wildlife sightings. The poor leopard cub with the porcupine quills in his paw. Oh well, one of those invaluable lessons.
Wild dogs running! Did you know where to or from what?
Good job with the owl and cheetah!
Thanks for the report!
Jun 4th, 2007, 07:16 PM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Elainee,
Others on the flight checked regular type small suitcases on the SAA flight from JNB to Mala Mala. We already had the duffles from a previous trip and just find them easier to use on trips to Africa.
Granny Joan
Others on the flight checked regular type small suitcases on the SAA flight from JNB to Mala Mala. We already had the duffles from a previous trip and just find them easier to use on trips to Africa.
Granny Joan
Jun 4th, 2007, 07:29 PM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Granny Joan -
Yes, this will be our first trip to MM. We went to Botswana last year and were lucky enough to put together a somewhat last minute trip to SA this July. We can't wait - and are now even more excited after reading about your trip!
-Lily
Yes, this will be our first trip to MM. We went to Botswana last year and were lucky enough to put together a somewhat last minute trip to SA this July. We can't wait - and are now even more excited after reading about your trip!
-Lily
Jun 4th, 2007, 08:20 PM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carla,
Yes we did see Kirkman vehicles several times when in the Southern area of MM. We also attempted to help one of the local residents who got stuck at one of the river crossings.
Granny Joan
Yes we did see Kirkman vehicles several times when in the Southern area of MM. We also attempted to help one of the local residents who got stuck at one of the river crossings.
Granny Joan
Jun 5th, 2007, 05:54 AM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carla,
It seems that we saw more leopards in the Northern area, as well as elephants and giraffes. But along the main road into Mala Mala we did see giraffes as well. We only had one sighting as I recall of leopards in the southern area. Did have lions in both areas. The cheetahs were sighted in daytime in more central area. It is hard to say, as the animals tend to move around somewhat.
I am almost ready to post a few videos and photos. I am trying to put the variety of animals I saw and since I have thousands of photos it is hard to choose the best ones ... but will post a link as soon as I get it all together.
-Granny Joan
It seems that we saw more leopards in the Northern area, as well as elephants and giraffes. But along the main road into Mala Mala we did see giraffes as well. We only had one sighting as I recall of leopards in the southern area. Did have lions in both areas. The cheetahs were sighted in daytime in more central area. It is hard to say, as the animals tend to move around somewhat.
I am almost ready to post a few videos and photos. I am trying to put the variety of animals I saw and since I have thousands of photos it is hard to choose the best ones ... but will post a link as soon as I get it all together.
-Granny Joan
Jun 5th, 2007, 06:03 AM
#17
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi GrannyJoan
Great to hear that you had a fantastic trip. Certainly when you stay 12 nights, you shall get your share of 2 nighters and I have had my share of racing around after the big 5 when I am at MalaMala for 3 weeks or so. I love looking at many, many, many things and probably the more I return to MM, the less interest I have in seeing "the big 5" on a daily basis.
Matt,
are you kidding when you say you have not seen the MM 7 in any one visit? That is amazing! I had dry spells for a few years, and it was those wild dogs that were normally missing, but my luck has returned this year with both visits giving me the 7.
CarlaM
Great sightings to be had in both north and south. I am never disappointed in heading south, although you do not always make it, if some viewing brings you back north. Staying there for a few nights usually only means one visit to the south but it also depends on your ranger. Some of the newer ones do not have the experience of the south, especially since Kirkmans was sold. It also helps if your ranger has worked at Kirkmans, and that is the case with Bens and was the case with past rangers. I also know that Kirkmans have made a huge number of new roads, and that is a whole new learning process for the MM rangers, as obviously they need to learn the new roads now.
I am not returning until mid December, so a long long time to wait.
Kind regards
Kaye
Great to hear that you had a fantastic trip. Certainly when you stay 12 nights, you shall get your share of 2 nighters and I have had my share of racing around after the big 5 when I am at MalaMala for 3 weeks or so. I love looking at many, many, many things and probably the more I return to MM, the less interest I have in seeing "the big 5" on a daily basis.
Matt,
are you kidding when you say you have not seen the MM 7 in any one visit? That is amazing! I had dry spells for a few years, and it was those wild dogs that were normally missing, but my luck has returned this year with both visits giving me the 7.
CarlaM
Great sightings to be had in both north and south. I am never disappointed in heading south, although you do not always make it, if some viewing brings you back north. Staying there for a few nights usually only means one visit to the south but it also depends on your ranger. Some of the newer ones do not have the experience of the south, especially since Kirkmans was sold. It also helps if your ranger has worked at Kirkmans, and that is the case with Bens and was the case with past rangers. I also know that Kirkmans have made a huge number of new roads, and that is a whole new learning process for the MM rangers, as obviously they need to learn the new roads now.
I am not returning until mid December, so a long long time to wait.
Kind regards
Kaye
Jun 5th, 2007, 06:09 AM
#18
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
GrannyJoan just posted her response to CarlaM as I was posting. Really, great leopard viewing to be had in both north and south.
Cartainly, the fantastic sightings of the hyena dens I had in March were only in the south - and even though we visited the den quite a few times, the hyena were not always there! But always plenty of other things to view!
Kind regards,
Kaye
Cartainly, the fantastic sightings of the hyena dens I had in March were only in the south - and even though we visited the den quite a few times, the hyena were not always there! But always plenty of other things to view!
Kind regards,
Kaye
Jun 5th, 2007, 06:27 AM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, here goes the link to my photos and video clips. Enjoy. I tried to pick a few for variety and none have been cropped or enhanced and hope they give you an idea of what to expect at Mala Mala.
I may add to this link as time allows and update periodically if I find some better photos in the thousands we took while on this trip.
http://web.mac.com/jheitzeb/iWeb/Sou...07/Photos.html
-Granny Joan
I may add to this link as time allows and update periodically if I find some better photos in the thousands we took while on this trip.
http://web.mac.com/jheitzeb/iWeb/Sou...07/Photos.html
-Granny Joan
