just returned from 12 days in SA - a trip report.
Jul 31st, 2007, 01:17 PM
#1
just returned from 12 days in SA - a trip report.
Hi,
We got back today from a wonderful trip to SA, and I'm just gearing my self up for the trip -report. I'll be doing this in sections - hotels, food, travel, etc,. then if I have the energy, a day by day account.
for now, a big thank you to all you kind people who helped my planning - Selwyn, Kurt, and many others. I really appreciated your input and found it very useful.
but now, I'm off to make a proper english cuppa!
regards, ann
We got back today from a wonderful trip to SA, and I'm just gearing my self up for the trip -report. I'll be doing this in sections - hotels, food, travel, etc,. then if I have the energy, a day by day account.
for now, a big thank you to all you kind people who helped my planning - Selwyn, Kurt, and many others. I really appreciated your input and found it very useful.
but now, I'm off to make a proper english cuppa!
regards, ann
Aug 1st, 2007, 02:10 PM
#4
right, well here goes.
WHO WE ARE : me and DH [both 50 somethings living in cornwall in the UK] plus our two "kids", DD aged 19 and on her way to Uni in October to study animal science, and DS, 16 with ADHD, just finished his GCSEs [public exams
taken by most 16 year olds in the UK].
WHY SOUTH AFRICA? we wanted a family holiday [probably the last though we keep saying that] and originally thought of Italy, but it ned to fit in between the end of DS's exams and DD going to Uni/ plus our house-sitter's commitments, [to look after dogs, chickens and donkeys] and Venice and July didn't seem like a good idea. I fancied an east african safari, but the family felt that would be too much of the same, and SA offered a wider variety, plus very good value against the £. so despite the possiblity of inclement weather (!) SA it was.
AGENT: We have always organised Europe trips ourselves. but as this was a new venture for us, and we were taking the kids, I wanted the extra security of and UK agent to help with planning and do the booknig for us. After a lot of e-mailing/phoning, I came across Abi at www. bushbaby.travel.com. based in the UK. although they specialise in trips for families with smaller kids, she came up with ideas and suggestions that just seemed to fit with what we wanted, and answered all my queries with endless patience. that said, another time, I'd certainly think about doing it myself, especially if it was just the two of us.
ITINERARY: we only had 12 nights for reasons set out above, so we had a number of compromises to make. the kids and DH wanted to have as many varied experiences as possible, and not too much travelling about. after a lot of debate, we ended up with the following:
4 nights/3 days CPT
2 nights Grootbos [on the coast east of Hermanus down towards Gansbaii]
3 nights near Plettenberg Bay on the garden route, at a country lodge called Hog Hollow.
1 night Schotia, a private game reserve north of Port Elizabeth, recommended by Selwyn.
2 nights Shamwari [another better known private game reserve very near Schotia].
FLIGHTS: we flew from Bristol [our nearest big airport, about 3 hours' drive from home] to Amsterdam on KLM, then KLM to CPT on a day flight lasting 11 1/2 hours. NEVER AGAIN. we flew back from PE via Jo'burg, Amsterdam, and into BRistol. the long leg was 10 hours over night and this was a lot easier. also we left Amsterdam at 12.45pm and arrived at Bristol at 12.30 pm - 15 minutes before we left because of the time diffference - DS loved this! I'd certainly do this again, even though it was one extra leg.
ACCOMMODATION:
CPT - we stayed at the Radisson, which is about 1 mile west of the waterfront. it is not the sort of place we'd normally choose, but 3 nights came free with 2 nights at Shamwari, and we decided to pay for an extra night to give us another day in CPT. even so our time there felt quite rushed, and we could have done with at least another day. the extra night cost us £100/U$200 per room including breakfast, and for the standard of accommodation, service and the breakfast, it seemed a real bargain.
the hotel was great - arriving late at night, it was very welcoming, warm and comfortable, and we got up in the morning to a wonderful view and the best breakfast we've ever had. DS was mesmerised by it and by the end of our stay, had worked his way though virtually the whole lot. He was also very taken with the complimentary dressing gowns and the slippers! [I have a horrible feeling that he might find life at home rather disapppointing after this trip!]
despite the time of year, we were able to have breakfast on the terrace twice, and evening drinks on two evenings as well, thanks to the patio heaters and blankets.
it was easy to get around - during the day we used our hire car, and at night the taxis - on two evenings we got a cab down to the waterfront and back [less than £5 round trip] and on the third we had a bar snack as we were too full from lunch. [see "Food" below].
this was a recommendation by our agent and she got it just right - I'd stay there again any time.
GROOTBOS: another recommendation from our agent. They provide an "all in" experience, and bit like a game safari without the game. it is on the coast between Stanford and Gansbaii about 1 1/2 hours' drive from CPT, just past Hermanus.
As well as the beautifully appointed main building, where you meet your guide and eat meals, there are a number of luxurious individal lodges, which are fully equipped with kitchenettes, wood-burning stoves, and underfloor heating, which stopped DS bemoaning the lack of complimentary slippers! Although it was bit cold, we were able to wake up both mornings to fabulous views of the bay from our beds, drinking our early morning cups of tea.
the food was excellent, with plenty of choice, including enough to please DS, who is a bit picky. if anything, it was a bit rich and two days of it was enough for our digestive systems to cope with.
there was plenty of choice of activities which were all inclusive [apart from whale-watching which was cancelled due to the weather]. We really enjoyed the flower safari and walks that we did, and appreciated the attention DS received from the guides who really connected with him.
HOG HOLLOW: this is another country lodge, this time near Plettenberg Bay. By the time we got there, we were wondering if we wanted to stay at another remote lodge a bit like grootbos, but the staff immediately won us over. the welcome was exceptionally friendly, and they went out of their way to find out what we wanted to do and help us organise it. the first day we were able to fit in whale watching, plus a visit to the nearby monkey, bird and elephant sanctuaries, and the next day we took it easy with a visit to the snake park plus a drive to Knysna, and a boat trip there out to the heads.
the accommodation again comprised a main building with wonderful views across the valley, plus a number of individual lodges, all eqipped with full bathrooms, wood burning stoves and electric heaters. nice touches were the hot-water bottles we found in our beds after dinner, and the bed-time stories left on the pillows - little short stories written by SA writers, some funny, some poignant.
again the food was pretty good, with lavish breakfasts particularly appreciated by you-know-who, and optional table d'hote diners, all eaten together at the same long table, which led to a number of lively conversations amongst guests.
SCHOTIA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE: this was a rather different but none the less very enjoyable experience. we arrived in teeming rain at about 3.30pm for the start of the afternoon game drive, not realising that we wouldn't get any access to our luggage until we went to bed. not having been properly prepared for this, we found that we were barely warm, and certainly not dry, which led to perhaps less enthusiasm for game-watching that we might otherwise have had. nevertheless we did what we could [which meant donning every scrpa of clothing we could lay our hands on] and joined in with as much enthusiasm as we could muster.
after a couple of hours, we ended up at the lapa, where we were warmed up with tea and coffee, then it was off again on the more or less open land-rovers for more game spotting, until about 7.30 when we were returned to the lapa for an african supper. finally another night-time game drive, bringing us to our accommodation which turned out to be two individual thatched huts in the bush, complete with running hot and cold water, but NO ELECTRICITY! heating was by a coal stove, [greatly needed due to the wet and cold] lighting by parrafin lamps. one hut had a double plus bunk-beds, the other just a large double, so we could all have gone in together, but the kids were very happy to be saved our snoring! the huts were about 100 yards apart, so ok for our kids, but families with younger children might want to share, or be in the rather more modern accommodation on another part of the reserve, that other guests were in.
once we'd got warm, this was a magical experience, all the better because it was completely unexpected.
in the morning we were collected at about 7.30, and after another drive, were treated to the owner demonstrating firing his elephant cannon[!] thankfully not at any passing elephants, another good breakfast, and then a game drive at the nearby Addo elephant park, which was fun mainly due to the lack of rain, despite a lack of any visible elephants!
after an inclusive lunch at a near-by cafe, we were returned to the secure parking area and reunited with our car, and warm clothing!
this was a booking made as a result of a recommendation from Selwyn, and was a big hit, so thanks, selwyn!
SHAMWARI: everyone we met said we would love it, so perhaps we expected too much. we stayed at the Bushman's river lodge, which was every bit as luxurious as the pictures suggest, in fact, possibly too lavish - did we really need complimentary slippers AND underfloor heating? [have I really just written that sentence?] it was very efficiently run, but perhaps a bit souless after the other places. food was good but not spectacular, and the game was a bit shy, perhaps because of the weather, which was wndy and cold, though thankfully not raining.
I'm getting a bit tired - 24 hours travelling takes it out of you a bit - so I'll leave the rest for now. please feel free to ask and Qs about the above or anything else, for that matter. Next I'll be moving onto FOOD.
regards, ann
WHO WE ARE : me and DH [both 50 somethings living in cornwall in the UK] plus our two "kids", DD aged 19 and on her way to Uni in October to study animal science, and DS, 16 with ADHD, just finished his GCSEs [public exams
taken by most 16 year olds in the UK].
WHY SOUTH AFRICA? we wanted a family holiday [probably the last though we keep saying that] and originally thought of Italy, but it ned to fit in between the end of DS's exams and DD going to Uni/ plus our house-sitter's commitments, [to look after dogs, chickens and donkeys] and Venice and July didn't seem like a good idea. I fancied an east african safari, but the family felt that would be too much of the same, and SA offered a wider variety, plus very good value against the £. so despite the possiblity of inclement weather (!) SA it was.
AGENT: We have always organised Europe trips ourselves. but as this was a new venture for us, and we were taking the kids, I wanted the extra security of and UK agent to help with planning and do the booknig for us. After a lot of e-mailing/phoning, I came across Abi at www. bushbaby.travel.com. based in the UK. although they specialise in trips for families with smaller kids, she came up with ideas and suggestions that just seemed to fit with what we wanted, and answered all my queries with endless patience. that said, another time, I'd certainly think about doing it myself, especially if it was just the two of us.
ITINERARY: we only had 12 nights for reasons set out above, so we had a number of compromises to make. the kids and DH wanted to have as many varied experiences as possible, and not too much travelling about. after a lot of debate, we ended up with the following:
4 nights/3 days CPT
2 nights Grootbos [on the coast east of Hermanus down towards Gansbaii]
3 nights near Plettenberg Bay on the garden route, at a country lodge called Hog Hollow.
1 night Schotia, a private game reserve north of Port Elizabeth, recommended by Selwyn.
2 nights Shamwari [another better known private game reserve very near Schotia].
FLIGHTS: we flew from Bristol [our nearest big airport, about 3 hours' drive from home] to Amsterdam on KLM, then KLM to CPT on a day flight lasting 11 1/2 hours. NEVER AGAIN. we flew back from PE via Jo'burg, Amsterdam, and into BRistol. the long leg was 10 hours over night and this was a lot easier. also we left Amsterdam at 12.45pm and arrived at Bristol at 12.30 pm - 15 minutes before we left because of the time diffference - DS loved this! I'd certainly do this again, even though it was one extra leg.
ACCOMMODATION:
CPT - we stayed at the Radisson, which is about 1 mile west of the waterfront. it is not the sort of place we'd normally choose, but 3 nights came free with 2 nights at Shamwari, and we decided to pay for an extra night to give us another day in CPT. even so our time there felt quite rushed, and we could have done with at least another day. the extra night cost us £100/U$200 per room including breakfast, and for the standard of accommodation, service and the breakfast, it seemed a real bargain.
the hotel was great - arriving late at night, it was very welcoming, warm and comfortable, and we got up in the morning to a wonderful view and the best breakfast we've ever had. DS was mesmerised by it and by the end of our stay, had worked his way though virtually the whole lot. He was also very taken with the complimentary dressing gowns and the slippers! [I have a horrible feeling that he might find life at home rather disapppointing after this trip!]
despite the time of year, we were able to have breakfast on the terrace twice, and evening drinks on two evenings as well, thanks to the patio heaters and blankets.
it was easy to get around - during the day we used our hire car, and at night the taxis - on two evenings we got a cab down to the waterfront and back [less than £5 round trip] and on the third we had a bar snack as we were too full from lunch. [see "Food" below].
this was a recommendation by our agent and she got it just right - I'd stay there again any time.
GROOTBOS: another recommendation from our agent. They provide an "all in" experience, and bit like a game safari without the game. it is on the coast between Stanford and Gansbaii about 1 1/2 hours' drive from CPT, just past Hermanus.
As well as the beautifully appointed main building, where you meet your guide and eat meals, there are a number of luxurious individal lodges, which are fully equipped with kitchenettes, wood-burning stoves, and underfloor heating, which stopped DS bemoaning the lack of complimentary slippers! Although it was bit cold, we were able to wake up both mornings to fabulous views of the bay from our beds, drinking our early morning cups of tea.
the food was excellent, with plenty of choice, including enough to please DS, who is a bit picky. if anything, it was a bit rich and two days of it was enough for our digestive systems to cope with.
there was plenty of choice of activities which were all inclusive [apart from whale-watching which was cancelled due to the weather]. We really enjoyed the flower safari and walks that we did, and appreciated the attention DS received from the guides who really connected with him.
HOG HOLLOW: this is another country lodge, this time near Plettenberg Bay. By the time we got there, we were wondering if we wanted to stay at another remote lodge a bit like grootbos, but the staff immediately won us over. the welcome was exceptionally friendly, and they went out of their way to find out what we wanted to do and help us organise it. the first day we were able to fit in whale watching, plus a visit to the nearby monkey, bird and elephant sanctuaries, and the next day we took it easy with a visit to the snake park plus a drive to Knysna, and a boat trip there out to the heads.
the accommodation again comprised a main building with wonderful views across the valley, plus a number of individual lodges, all eqipped with full bathrooms, wood burning stoves and electric heaters. nice touches were the hot-water bottles we found in our beds after dinner, and the bed-time stories left on the pillows - little short stories written by SA writers, some funny, some poignant.
again the food was pretty good, with lavish breakfasts particularly appreciated by you-know-who, and optional table d'hote diners, all eaten together at the same long table, which led to a number of lively conversations amongst guests.
SCHOTIA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE: this was a rather different but none the less very enjoyable experience. we arrived in teeming rain at about 3.30pm for the start of the afternoon game drive, not realising that we wouldn't get any access to our luggage until we went to bed. not having been properly prepared for this, we found that we were barely warm, and certainly not dry, which led to perhaps less enthusiasm for game-watching that we might otherwise have had. nevertheless we did what we could [which meant donning every scrpa of clothing we could lay our hands on] and joined in with as much enthusiasm as we could muster.
after a couple of hours, we ended up at the lapa, where we were warmed up with tea and coffee, then it was off again on the more or less open land-rovers for more game spotting, until about 7.30 when we were returned to the lapa for an african supper. finally another night-time game drive, bringing us to our accommodation which turned out to be two individual thatched huts in the bush, complete with running hot and cold water, but NO ELECTRICITY! heating was by a coal stove, [greatly needed due to the wet and cold] lighting by parrafin lamps. one hut had a double plus bunk-beds, the other just a large double, so we could all have gone in together, but the kids were very happy to be saved our snoring! the huts were about 100 yards apart, so ok for our kids, but families with younger children might want to share, or be in the rather more modern accommodation on another part of the reserve, that other guests were in.
once we'd got warm, this was a magical experience, all the better because it was completely unexpected.
in the morning we were collected at about 7.30, and after another drive, were treated to the owner demonstrating firing his elephant cannon[!] thankfully not at any passing elephants, another good breakfast, and then a game drive at the nearby Addo elephant park, which was fun mainly due to the lack of rain, despite a lack of any visible elephants!
after an inclusive lunch at a near-by cafe, we were returned to the secure parking area and reunited with our car, and warm clothing!
this was a booking made as a result of a recommendation from Selwyn, and was a big hit, so thanks, selwyn!
SHAMWARI: everyone we met said we would love it, so perhaps we expected too much. we stayed at the Bushman's river lodge, which was every bit as luxurious as the pictures suggest, in fact, possibly too lavish - did we really need complimentary slippers AND underfloor heating? [have I really just written that sentence?] it was very efficiently run, but perhaps a bit souless after the other places. food was good but not spectacular, and the game was a bit shy, perhaps because of the weather, which was wndy and cold, though thankfully not raining.
I'm getting a bit tired - 24 hours travelling takes it out of you a bit - so I'll leave the rest for now. please feel free to ask and Qs about the above or anything else, for that matter. Next I'll be moving onto FOOD.
regards, ann
Aug 1st, 2007, 04:47 PM
#5
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Enjoying it so far. I've had my eye on Grootbos so it's nice to read an opinion on it. I hadn't considered that whale watching trips might be cancelled, that was my main reason for choosing this lodge.
What other animal/nature encounters were available while you were there? Would you visit again?
It's ok if you wait to answer these questions until later in the report. Thanks for posting.
What other animal/nature encounters were available while you were there? Would you visit again?
It's ok if you wait to answer these questions until later in the report. Thanks for posting.
Aug 1st, 2007, 04:53 PM
#6
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Your report is so nice and personal. I really appreciate the background information.
Are you going to write more about what you did and saw in the Cape Town area?
Your kids are so lucky to have Mom and Dad take them to Africa.
Are you going to write more about what you did and saw in the Cape Town area?
Your kids are so lucky to have Mom and Dad take them to Africa.
Aug 2nd, 2007, 08:26 AM
#8
hi, y'all,thanks for the feed-back. I always like the personal details too, but I'll try not to overdo it.
I'll do a section on animals, as i know that this is one of teh mani reasons we went, and that probably applies to OPs like Femi. also, I'm aiming to do a day by day a/c, which should cover our CPT activities in more detail.
let me know if there's any other topics i can help with, now it's back to the gardening!
regards, ann
I'll do a section on animals, as i know that this is one of teh mani reasons we went, and that probably applies to OPs like Femi. also, I'm aiming to do a day by day a/c, which should cover our CPT activities in more detail.
let me know if there's any other topics i can help with, now it's back to the gardening!
regards, ann
Aug 2nd, 2007, 02:24 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ann,
Welcome back. Good report so far (although I gotta tell ya.... I had never heard of any of these places except Capetown, and pronouncing them sounds pretty tricky). I had also never heard of "flower safari" before
Okay, so you really shouldn't be working in the night. Typing fodors reports, yes; work, no.
Best.
Welcome back. Good report so far (although I gotta tell ya.... I had never heard of any of these places except Capetown, and pronouncing them sounds pretty tricky). I had also never heard of "flower safari" before
Okay, so you really shouldn't be working in the night. Typing fodors reports, yes; work, no.
Best.
Aug 3rd, 2007, 06:24 AM
#11
hi, comfy and friends,
perhaps I assumed too much in my original post, so I'll try to help orient you, remembering that my take on SA geography was almost non-existant before we went and it's pretty sketchy now.
CPT is in the western cape, near the cape of good hope, which is NOT the most southerly point of the african continent [that is cape agulhas, further east where the atlantic and indian oceans meet]. we drove east from CPT, along the N2 which is the most southerly road on the continent [and in places was almost deserted!] and goes all the way along the coast, past PE and far beyond.
grootbos is a few KMs past hermanus, itself just under 100 kms from CPT, on the coast, its main claim to fame 100 years ago having been whale catching, now thankfully whale watching.
about 400kms out of CPT at Mosselbay is the start of "the Garden Route" where the scenery changes from the stark mountain range that surrounds CPT and includes Table Mountain to the lush forest of the Eastern CApe. the centre of this area is around Knysna on the coast and Tsitsikamma inland. we stayed a little further east than Knysna near Plettenberg Bay, again a whaling port many years ago.
towards Port elizabeth [PE] the scenery flattens out and becomes more "bush" than forest, and in the area north of PE are the private game reserves like Schotia and Shamwari covering many hectares of land, as well as the national park of Addo, which is probably the size of half of Cornwall![Kruger is the size of Wales!]
CPT to PE is about 760 kms. somehow we managed to do twice that in our trip.
geography lesson over.
regards, ann
perhaps I assumed too much in my original post, so I'll try to help orient you, remembering that my take on SA geography was almost non-existant before we went and it's pretty sketchy now.
CPT is in the western cape, near the cape of good hope, which is NOT the most southerly point of the african continent [that is cape agulhas, further east where the atlantic and indian oceans meet]. we drove east from CPT, along the N2 which is the most southerly road on the continent [and in places was almost deserted!] and goes all the way along the coast, past PE and far beyond.
grootbos is a few KMs past hermanus, itself just under 100 kms from CPT, on the coast, its main claim to fame 100 years ago having been whale catching, now thankfully whale watching.
about 400kms out of CPT at Mosselbay is the start of "the Garden Route" where the scenery changes from the stark mountain range that surrounds CPT and includes Table Mountain to the lush forest of the Eastern CApe. the centre of this area is around Knysna on the coast and Tsitsikamma inland. we stayed a little further east than Knysna near Plettenberg Bay, again a whaling port many years ago.
towards Port elizabeth [PE] the scenery flattens out and becomes more "bush" than forest, and in the area north of PE are the private game reserves like Schotia and Shamwari covering many hectares of land, as well as the national park of Addo, which is probably the size of half of Cornwall![Kruger is the size of Wales!]
CPT to PE is about 760 kms. somehow we managed to do twice that in our trip.
geography lesson over.
regards, ann
Aug 4th, 2007, 11:56 AM
#13
hi, Comfy,
not sure how much help I can be with language issues. SA has 11 official ones, plus many others.
one very interesting place we went to in CPT was the "slave lodge" museum, which had a section on language. my understanding is that both Afrikaans and Xhosa are "creole" languages, that is to say they are amalgams of other languages, adaopted to meet the needs of the population. AFrikaans for example developed as a way for the black and coloured populations to communicate with the dutch farmers.
of the places we visited, cape town is obviously english in origin, but is known as "Kapstadt" in Afrikaans. "Gansbaii" is obviously Afrikaans, ditto "Mosselbaii"; "Knysna" [pronounced without the K] is ???, "Tsitiskamma" may be Xhosa or another local language possibly "san".
Often a traffic sign would give the place name in one language, then follow it a few kms later with the same name in the other language entirely! but they are so similar that this was never a problem.
regards, ann
not sure how much help I can be with language issues. SA has 11 official ones, plus many others.
one very interesting place we went to in CPT was the "slave lodge" museum, which had a section on language. my understanding is that both Afrikaans and Xhosa are "creole" languages, that is to say they are amalgams of other languages, adaopted to meet the needs of the population. AFrikaans for example developed as a way for the black and coloured populations to communicate with the dutch farmers.
of the places we visited, cape town is obviously english in origin, but is known as "Kapstadt" in Afrikaans. "Gansbaii" is obviously Afrikaans, ditto "Mosselbaii"; "Knysna" [pronounced without the K] is ???, "Tsitiskamma" may be Xhosa or another local language possibly "san".
Often a traffic sign would give the place name in one language, then follow it a few kms later with the same name in the other language entirely! but they are so similar that this was never a problem.
regards, ann
Aug 4th, 2007, 01:15 PM
#14
hi, y'all,
back to the trip report, and a subject close to my heart -
FOOD.
it varied from good to excellent. we only had one, possibly two less than good meals.
the first night in CPT we got a cab down to the waterfront, and after some wandering around, went back to the place we first spotted called "the city grill" mainly because it had "south african" food and oysters, of which DH and I shared a dozen, while the kids had some garlic bread. [they don't like those "slippery slimey yucky things" as DS called them.]
then we tucked into a variety of SA meats - DD had Kudu in a greenpepper sauce, which she really liked, DH and I shared a mixed venison kebab [quite enough for two with impala, wildebeest, and several other meats I've forgotten]and DS had impala. with it we drank some sparkling wine [too sweet for my taste] and a bottle of something red, that I can't remember.
altogether with puds for the kids and coffees, the whole lot came to 888ZAR, which is about £60/U$120. not a steal, but it was vey well cooked and we enjoyed sitting outside in a very vibrant atmosphere.
in fact, we enjoyed the experience so much, we went back the next night, but ate at "Den Anker" - a belgian style brasserie. Again we had a great meal, apart from the mussels [the main reason we ate there!] which DH wanted, but were either not very fresh, or overcooked, or both. however, his fish soup was superb, and the springbok stew , prawns and duck were excellent. one thing we liked about this restaurant was that for each dish, they suggested appropriate wines, many of them available by the glass; they also had a good range of belgian beers of course.
again with puds and coffees, the meal cost about 800Zar.
one thing to watch is the service charge, or rather the lack of one - tipping is the order of the day. Rather than add it to the credit card, we generally chose to give it in cash to the "waitron" but I've no idea whether this was appropriate or desirable. Normally we left about 10% - again, no idea of this was right. Also between 2-5Zar for petol pump attendants, car park guards, etc, and 50Zar in the rooms for the chamber maids.
THe other place we ate in the CPT area was the "2 OCEANS RESTAURANT" at the base of the cape of good hope funicular. this was absolutely worth the trip, not just for the food but also the view we could see from our table up along the coast and the mountains beyond.
we earned the meal first by walking out along the path from the top of the funicular right to the "point" [billed as being 1 & 1/2 hours and dangerous, but in reality 40 minutes and easy] and were glad we did, because we'd have been doing no walking after wards!
between us we stuck away very generous to huge portions of BBQ ribs, calamari, stir-fry and fish curry [my choice and to my mind definitely the yummiest I've ever had], plus we had puds, coffeees and beers/cokes, all for 600Zar. [about £40].
what really impressed us about this place was that although they are the only choice for many miles, they are not taking their customers for granted, the food was excellent and the service very attentive. we couldn't help but draw comparisons with Lands End in Cornwall, which last time we went was truly dire.
after this meal for lunch we didn't need dinner, and instead had cocktails and snacks on the terrace at the radisson. although they weren't cheap, for the location and atmosphere, they were not expensive and this made a really nice ending to our trip to CPT. Even if you don't stay here, I would recommend an evening visit on a nice night for a drink at least.
we couldn't leave the CPT area without visiting the winelands, so we made a detour to Franschoek for sunday lunch. Unfortunately, we were stil full of the Radisson breakfast, so didn't want much, especially DS who had eaten his way through their buffet and hot menu by the time we left. this was a great pity in this very foodie town and most places were very much geared up for serious eaters. even in July, which is the SA equivalent of January here, many places were booked out. however, we found a small cafe called "LE BISTRO" at the monument end of town, where DD and DH had very good home-made soup and i had a salad. with drinks [which originally they failed to charge us for!] it all came to 180Zar.
it turned out to be just as well that we didn't eat much at lunch, as the "all-inclusive" dinner at GROOTBOS was a five course affair, plus complimentary "amuses bouches". The menu was more or less the same both evenings:
a starter such as tempura crayfish
soup [thai style or a cream veg]
sorbet
mains ranging from fillet of beef to grilled kingclip to venison wellington
dessert/cheese
coffee & chocs.
what with the breakfasts [buffet plus a hot choice of eggs, bacon, etc] and the lunches, I think it was a good thing we weren't there more than two nights!
fortunately, the arrangement at HOG HOLLOW was for B & B, so our stomachs were able to recover a bit. the breakfasts were again excellent [the pancakes particularly good, and we were always too full to try the Whole Hog which included caramalised banana!] and the table d'hote dinners were reasonable - 190 Zar for 3 courses and coffee. there were also sea-food alternatives that you could substitute for the main course - we didn't do this but they looked very good.
one very attractive aspect of meals here was that they wre all eaten around the same table [unless you asked to eat separately]. Both nights we ate in there was a very lively atmosphere, with guests swapping their travellers' tales, but generally in a very friendly non-competitive way. most of the people we met there were doing the same sort of trip - CPT/garden route/safari or vv, and several of us had stayed at the Radisson too. [and every one without fail had loved it!]
the third night, we'd decided to follow a number of recommendations to eat seafood at 34degrees south in Knysna, especially as it fitted in with our plans to spend the afternoon there on a boat trip. this was really the one and only poor meal we had - the sushi was uninspired, the crayfish were waterly and tasteless, and worst of all, NO LOOS!!! you had to go to the public one round the corner [not such a good idea after dark in SA, even in a very salubrious area like the Knysna waterfront] and by the time we left, and all needed the loo, the ladies was shut! however, the cleaner took pity on us, and suggested we use the gents, checking that our menfolk had already finished. [how embarassing could that have been?]as it was about a 40 minute drive back to the hotel, in the dark, calling in somewhere else or crossing our legs were not options.
this restaurant seemed to fall between several stools - was it a deli? a fishmonger? a cafe? a sushi bar? a restaurant? and did none of them well.
as this was a last meal before the safaris started [which were on an "all inclusive" basis] it was a shame that it was so poor.
THe food like everything else at SCHOTIA was quite different. It was by no means gormet, and was closer to the camp food i remember in guides, except that it was african, eaten in a Lapa around an open fire in the middle of the bush, and we were cold and it was hot and tasty. Beef stew, roast potatoes, squash and veg in cheese sauce were very welcome, so much so that DS even ate the veg. Puds were similar to bakewell tart & custard. the wine/beer/coke were free within reason, ditto tea & coffee.
The breakfast was standard "camp" fare - scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, etc. plus cereal and fruit juice, tea/coffee and I didn't see anyone turn it down!
At SHAMWARI [Bushman's River Lodge - there are a max of 8 guests here unlike long lee manor where there may be as many as 70, so the arrangements may be different there] the cooking was somewhat more sophisticated, albeit with a limited choice, which still managed to supply something we all liked at every meal. the french toast for breakfast with bacon and maple syrup was particularly enjoyed by DD & DS.
For dinner, one night we had a "Brai" [BBQ to the rest of us], the next night, and our last in AFrica, I've completely forgotten!
apart from the main meals described above, we had the odd snack - chicken mayo toasted sandwiches are very popular, as are UK type steak and kidney pies!
that's all for now - tomorrow I'll try to cover animals, plus travel and safety.
regards, ann
back to the trip report, and a subject close to my heart -
FOOD.
it varied from good to excellent. we only had one, possibly two less than good meals.
the first night in CPT we got a cab down to the waterfront, and after some wandering around, went back to the place we first spotted called "the city grill" mainly because it had "south african" food and oysters, of which DH and I shared a dozen, while the kids had some garlic bread. [they don't like those "slippery slimey yucky things" as DS called them.]
then we tucked into a variety of SA meats - DD had Kudu in a greenpepper sauce, which she really liked, DH and I shared a mixed venison kebab [quite enough for two with impala, wildebeest, and several other meats I've forgotten]and DS had impala. with it we drank some sparkling wine [too sweet for my taste] and a bottle of something red, that I can't remember.
altogether with puds for the kids and coffees, the whole lot came to 888ZAR, which is about £60/U$120. not a steal, but it was vey well cooked and we enjoyed sitting outside in a very vibrant atmosphere.
in fact, we enjoyed the experience so much, we went back the next night, but ate at "Den Anker" - a belgian style brasserie. Again we had a great meal, apart from the mussels [the main reason we ate there!] which DH wanted, but were either not very fresh, or overcooked, or both. however, his fish soup was superb, and the springbok stew , prawns and duck were excellent. one thing we liked about this restaurant was that for each dish, they suggested appropriate wines, many of them available by the glass; they also had a good range of belgian beers of course.
again with puds and coffees, the meal cost about 800Zar.
one thing to watch is the service charge, or rather the lack of one - tipping is the order of the day. Rather than add it to the credit card, we generally chose to give it in cash to the "waitron" but I've no idea whether this was appropriate or desirable. Normally we left about 10% - again, no idea of this was right. Also between 2-5Zar for petol pump attendants, car park guards, etc, and 50Zar in the rooms for the chamber maids.
THe other place we ate in the CPT area was the "2 OCEANS RESTAURANT" at the base of the cape of good hope funicular. this was absolutely worth the trip, not just for the food but also the view we could see from our table up along the coast and the mountains beyond.
we earned the meal first by walking out along the path from the top of the funicular right to the "point" [billed as being 1 & 1/2 hours and dangerous, but in reality 40 minutes and easy] and were glad we did, because we'd have been doing no walking after wards!
between us we stuck away very generous to huge portions of BBQ ribs, calamari, stir-fry and fish curry [my choice and to my mind definitely the yummiest I've ever had], plus we had puds, coffeees and beers/cokes, all for 600Zar. [about £40].
what really impressed us about this place was that although they are the only choice for many miles, they are not taking their customers for granted, the food was excellent and the service very attentive. we couldn't help but draw comparisons with Lands End in Cornwall, which last time we went was truly dire.
after this meal for lunch we didn't need dinner, and instead had cocktails and snacks on the terrace at the radisson. although they weren't cheap, for the location and atmosphere, they were not expensive and this made a really nice ending to our trip to CPT. Even if you don't stay here, I would recommend an evening visit on a nice night for a drink at least.
we couldn't leave the CPT area without visiting the winelands, so we made a detour to Franschoek for sunday lunch. Unfortunately, we were stil full of the Radisson breakfast, so didn't want much, especially DS who had eaten his way through their buffet and hot menu by the time we left. this was a great pity in this very foodie town and most places were very much geared up for serious eaters. even in July, which is the SA equivalent of January here, many places were booked out. however, we found a small cafe called "LE BISTRO" at the monument end of town, where DD and DH had very good home-made soup and i had a salad. with drinks [which originally they failed to charge us for!] it all came to 180Zar.
it turned out to be just as well that we didn't eat much at lunch, as the "all-inclusive" dinner at GROOTBOS was a five course affair, plus complimentary "amuses bouches". The menu was more or less the same both evenings:
a starter such as tempura crayfish
soup [thai style or a cream veg]
sorbet
mains ranging from fillet of beef to grilled kingclip to venison wellington
dessert/cheese
coffee & chocs.
what with the breakfasts [buffet plus a hot choice of eggs, bacon, etc] and the lunches, I think it was a good thing we weren't there more than two nights!
fortunately, the arrangement at HOG HOLLOW was for B & B, so our stomachs were able to recover a bit. the breakfasts were again excellent [the pancakes particularly good, and we were always too full to try the Whole Hog which included caramalised banana!] and the table d'hote dinners were reasonable - 190 Zar for 3 courses and coffee. there were also sea-food alternatives that you could substitute for the main course - we didn't do this but they looked very good.
one very attractive aspect of meals here was that they wre all eaten around the same table [unless you asked to eat separately]. Both nights we ate in there was a very lively atmosphere, with guests swapping their travellers' tales, but generally in a very friendly non-competitive way. most of the people we met there were doing the same sort of trip - CPT/garden route/safari or vv, and several of us had stayed at the Radisson too. [and every one without fail had loved it!]
the third night, we'd decided to follow a number of recommendations to eat seafood at 34degrees south in Knysna, especially as it fitted in with our plans to spend the afternoon there on a boat trip. this was really the one and only poor meal we had - the sushi was uninspired, the crayfish were waterly and tasteless, and worst of all, NO LOOS!!! you had to go to the public one round the corner [not such a good idea after dark in SA, even in a very salubrious area like the Knysna waterfront] and by the time we left, and all needed the loo, the ladies was shut! however, the cleaner took pity on us, and suggested we use the gents, checking that our menfolk had already finished. [how embarassing could that have been?]as it was about a 40 minute drive back to the hotel, in the dark, calling in somewhere else or crossing our legs were not options.
this restaurant seemed to fall between several stools - was it a deli? a fishmonger? a cafe? a sushi bar? a restaurant? and did none of them well.
as this was a last meal before the safaris started [which were on an "all inclusive" basis] it was a shame that it was so poor.
THe food like everything else at SCHOTIA was quite different. It was by no means gormet, and was closer to the camp food i remember in guides, except that it was african, eaten in a Lapa around an open fire in the middle of the bush, and we were cold and it was hot and tasty. Beef stew, roast potatoes, squash and veg in cheese sauce were very welcome, so much so that DS even ate the veg. Puds were similar to bakewell tart & custard. the wine/beer/coke were free within reason, ditto tea & coffee.
The breakfast was standard "camp" fare - scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, etc. plus cereal and fruit juice, tea/coffee and I didn't see anyone turn it down!
At SHAMWARI [Bushman's River Lodge - there are a max of 8 guests here unlike long lee manor where there may be as many as 70, so the arrangements may be different there] the cooking was somewhat more sophisticated, albeit with a limited choice, which still managed to supply something we all liked at every meal. the french toast for breakfast with bacon and maple syrup was particularly enjoyed by DD & DS.
For dinner, one night we had a "Brai" [BBQ to the rest of us], the next night, and our last in AFrica, I've completely forgotten!
apart from the main meals described above, we had the odd snack - chicken mayo toasted sandwiches are very popular, as are UK type steak and kidney pies!
that's all for now - tomorrow I'll try to cover animals, plus travel and safety.
regards, ann
Aug 4th, 2007, 04:12 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ann, Very interesting. I understand Zulu, Xhosa, Afrikaans, and English, are the top four (in order) spoken languages in South Africa. I have heard Afrikaans spoken but not the other two.
I liked your description of food although I have to ask if you really mean that fish curry was best you have ever had I mean all the way from U.K. which I thought has better Indian food than India itself!! Just kidding about that.
Did you feel worried about your safety? I am told people go through airport-style security checks in S.A. even at shopping malls but, as you know, have never been there myself.
I liked your description of food although I have to ask if you really mean that fish curry was best you have ever had
I mean all the way from U.K. which I thought has better Indian food than India itself!! Just kidding about that. Did you feel worried about your safety? I am told people go through airport-style security checks in S.A. even at shopping malls but, as you know, have never been there myself.
Aug 5th, 2007, 01:25 PM
#16
hi, comfy,
thanks for the feedback.
regarding languages, english was the "lingua franca" where we were. we didn't meet anyone who didn't speak it. lots of people also spoke afrikaans, including many black/coloured people [which we now understand, see above] and we heard some Xhosa, which is a "click" language ie some letters are replaced by clicks, a bit like a "tut". we didn't knowingly hear any Zulu, but I think we were in the wrong area for that.
yes, the fish curry really was the best I've ever had. Indian food in the UK, especially somewhere like cornwall tends to be very formulaic ie the same in every restaurant, where for some obscure reason, all the chefs are bangladeshi!
safety if something I'm about to deal with, but i rarely if ever felt worried. we didn't wander around at night, except at the waterfront, and only drove at night once, but we did walk around CPT in the day, AND in a not very nice area, [around the castle] in complete safety. We didn't come across any shopping malls with airport type security, though there were a few security guards in the waterfront and elsewhere.
we heard lots of horror stories, but we got home to newspaper reports of drive-by shootings and such-like, so it seems that crime is universal.
clearly, going out at night in Jo'burg might not be the best idea, but I'm not sure I'd like to walk round Brixton after dark either.
we tried to be sensible, and never felt worried.
regards, ann
thanks for the feedback.
regarding languages, english was the "lingua franca" where we were. we didn't meet anyone who didn't speak it. lots of people also spoke afrikaans, including many black/coloured people [which we now understand, see above] and we heard some Xhosa, which is a "click" language ie some letters are replaced by clicks, a bit like a "tut". we didn't knowingly hear any Zulu, but I think we were in the wrong area for that.
yes, the fish curry really was the best I've ever had. Indian food in the UK, especially somewhere like cornwall tends to be very formulaic ie the same in every restaurant, where for some obscure reason, all the chefs are bangladeshi!
safety if something I'm about to deal with, but i rarely if ever felt worried. we didn't wander around at night, except at the waterfront, and only drove at night once, but we did walk around CPT in the day, AND in a not very nice area, [around the castle] in complete safety. We didn't come across any shopping malls with airport type security, though there were a few security guards in the waterfront and elsewhere.
we heard lots of horror stories, but we got home to newspaper reports of drive-by shootings and such-like, so it seems that crime is universal.
clearly, going out at night in Jo'burg might not be the best idea, but I'm not sure I'd like to walk round Brixton after dark either.
we tried to be sensible, and never felt worried.
regards, ann
Aug 5th, 2007, 11:34 PM
#18
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ComfyShoes: "I am told people go through airport-style security checks in S.A. even at shopping malls . . ."
Nope! Only at airports and at some Government department buildings. I seem to spend way too much time in many shopping malls (and in Jo'burg, where I regularly go out at night!) and there are definitely no such things at any of them. Nor armed guards, unless the guys with security flashes have their guns very well hidden.
Correction. Although it's been a long while since I was last there, I've just remembered being "frisked" on entry to Jo'burg's faux-Tuscan Montecasino complex. I don't recall any metal detectors. But then there's a major casino there amongst the shops, restaurants and theatres.
Nope! Only at airports and at some Government department buildings. I seem to spend way too much time in many shopping malls (and in Jo'burg, where I regularly go out at night!) and there are definitely no such things at any of them. Nor armed guards, unless the guys with security flashes have their guns very well hidden.
Correction. Although it's been a long while since I was last there, I've just remembered being "frisked" on entry to Jo'burg's faux-Tuscan Montecasino complex. I don't recall any metal detectors. But then there's a major casino there amongst the shops, restaurants and theatres.
Aug 6th, 2007, 12:24 PM
#20
hi, pago,
love the new interpretation of DH and DD. What can you suggest for DS?
however, given DH's heroics in changing the flat tyre of our hire car in double-quick time [well, he was driving when it burst] and never swearing once, I wont' hear a word against him. and DD is leaving soon to go to uni so I'll not tempt fate - i suspect I'll miss her once she's gone.
well, I've put it off for long enough - here's comes the blow sorry day by day a/c.
PROLOGUE
Having an early flight to Amsterdam, [6.30am] we've booked B&B near Bristol airport, at the place we normally leave our car. [www.theoldchaffmill.com]. it's only 2 minutes' drive from the service entrance to the airport so very convenient. after a lot of debating, we decide that 5am will be early enough to check-in despite advice that it should be a minimum of 2 hours for international flights, and true to form, an hour would have been quite sufficient. there were no queues to speak of either at check in [we'd actually checked in on-line and so just had to check the luggage]or at security, and we were well prepared for the "one pice of luggage only" rule. we'd managed to get all our luggage into 3 suitcases too, and bade them a fond farewell, hoping we'd see them again at CPT. we'd originally hoped to keep it to 2 between the 4 of us, but given we were packing for winter and spring, and had a teenage daughter in tow, with walking boots, waterproofs and fleeces for all 4 of us, I think we did quite well.
KLM seem very efficient, and although our take-off was not exactly on time, we landed punctually, and made directly for the gate for the CPT flight, as we had a pretty tight window, or so we thought.
isn't schipol wonderful? so well organised, so clearly marked, so many nice shops and cafes. unfortunately we missed al these delights as our check-in time was so limited, but of course we spend ages waiting for check-in for the next flight. Finally we boarded, DD took her travel-sickness tablets [useless on this leg, as it turned out] and at about 11am, took off.
11 1/2 hours is a very long time. DH hated it, DD spent most of her time being sick, and DS hated the food, so starved. but all things good or bad come to an end, and at about 9pm we were on the ground in SA. hurrah. and our luggage came off the carosel - another hurrah. and we got through immigration in one piece, managing to produce all the bits of paper they needed, including the details of the return part of our journey, which no-one had told us we needed. [even more important apparently, are two clear facing pages in your passport, which luckily we had. travellers without this have been sent back!!!]
outside we were met by CC africa [our agent's agents] and taken to our taxi - a large people carrier. soon we wre being whisked through the evening CPT traffic, with our driver getting quite excited that the limos whizzing past us contained FIFA delegates there for the football match to celebrate NElson mandela's birthday, or even Nelson Mandela himself. we'll never know.
Finally arrival at our hotel, the radisson. wow. DS is in heaven. a glass lift, dressing-gown and slippers waiting for him, room service [in his dreams] and a room that does not adjoin ours! [though he does have to share with DD who keeps him in order].
the kids' twin is a little down the corridor from ours but on the same floor and side, and at their age, this is no problem. we check how the room phone workds, just in case, and make sure they know how to use it. both rooms are very spacious, and in the morning we discover that we have a view [over the car park] of table mountain, the kids have a triple aspect, including a side-view of the beach. for rooms that are effectively free, except for the last night, they are pretty good.
very soon as are in bed, and certainly in our case, asleep.
DAY ONE
love the new interpretation of DH and DD. What can you suggest for DS?
however, given DH's heroics in changing the flat tyre of our hire car in double-quick time [well, he was driving when it burst] and never swearing once, I wont' hear a word against him. and DD is leaving soon to go to uni so I'll not tempt fate - i suspect I'll miss her once she's gone.
well, I've put it off for long enough - here's comes the blow sorry day by day a/c.
PROLOGUE
Having an early flight to Amsterdam, [6.30am] we've booked B&B near Bristol airport, at the place we normally leave our car. [www.theoldchaffmill.com]. it's only 2 minutes' drive from the service entrance to the airport so very convenient. after a lot of debating, we decide that 5am will be early enough to check-in despite advice that it should be a minimum of 2 hours for international flights, and true to form, an hour would have been quite sufficient. there were no queues to speak of either at check in [we'd actually checked in on-line and so just had to check the luggage]or at security, and we were well prepared for the "one pice of luggage only" rule. we'd managed to get all our luggage into 3 suitcases too, and bade them a fond farewell, hoping we'd see them again at CPT. we'd originally hoped to keep it to 2 between the 4 of us, but given we were packing for winter and spring, and had a teenage daughter in tow, with walking boots, waterproofs and fleeces for all 4 of us, I think we did quite well.
KLM seem very efficient, and although our take-off was not exactly on time, we landed punctually, and made directly for the gate for the CPT flight, as we had a pretty tight window, or so we thought.
isn't schipol wonderful? so well organised, so clearly marked, so many nice shops and cafes. unfortunately we missed al these delights as our check-in time was so limited, but of course we spend ages waiting for check-in for the next flight. Finally we boarded, DD took her travel-sickness tablets [useless on this leg, as it turned out] and at about 11am, took off.
11 1/2 hours is a very long time. DH hated it, DD spent most of her time being sick, and DS hated the food, so starved. but all things good or bad come to an end, and at about 9pm we were on the ground in SA. hurrah. and our luggage came off the carosel - another hurrah. and we got through immigration in one piece, managing to produce all the bits of paper they needed, including the details of the return part of our journey, which no-one had told us we needed. [even more important apparently, are two clear facing pages in your passport, which luckily we had. travellers without this have been sent back!!!]
outside we were met by CC africa [our agent's agents] and taken to our taxi - a large people carrier. soon we wre being whisked through the evening CPT traffic, with our driver getting quite excited that the limos whizzing past us contained FIFA delegates there for the football match to celebrate NElson mandela's birthday, or even Nelson Mandela himself. we'll never know.
Finally arrival at our hotel, the radisson. wow. DS is in heaven. a glass lift, dressing-gown and slippers waiting for him, room service [in his dreams] and a room that does not adjoin ours! [though he does have to share with DD who keeps him in order].
the kids' twin is a little down the corridor from ours but on the same floor and side, and at their age, this is no problem. we check how the room phone workds, just in case, and make sure they know how to use it. both rooms are very spacious, and in the morning we discover that we have a view [over the car park] of table mountain, the kids have a triple aspect, including a side-view of the beach. for rooms that are effectively free, except for the last night, they are pretty good.
very soon as are in bed, and certainly in our case, asleep.
DAY ONE
