Israel Feature

Falafel

Falafel sandwiches are a fast-food staple in Israel, and stands are found from the busy streets of downtown Tel Aviv to the ultra-Orthodox areas of Jerusalem and the Eilat beach promenade.

It starts with a scoop of seasoned chickpeas mashed into small spheres that are quickly fried in oil then thrust—six or so—into a pita. Patrons give a nod or a "no thanks" to some hummus or harif (hot sauce), and to each of the colorful accompaniments: finely chopped cucumbers and tomatoes, shredded cabbage (white or red), parsley, pickles, and even french fries stuffed on top. Some establishments give you little bowls to fill with extra side dishes. Many customers drizzle their creation with self-serve sauces: amba (spicy pickled mango) and tahini. Be sure to have a few extra napkins ready, and assume the falafel position before taking your first bite: leaning forward well away from clothing and shoes.

The Sabra Personality

Israelis are reputed to have prickly personalities. Although you will hear the word savlanut (patience) bandied about, natives don't seem to be blessed with an overabundance of that quality.

An old saying tries to explain the character of Israelis, masters of the short retort, by comparing it to the prickly pear, a cactus known as the sabra, which is thorny on the outside but sweet on the inside. By extension, native-born Israelis are known as sabras. Fortunately, this national tendency toward abruptness is tempered with a generous dose of Mediterranean warmth. But there's a trick to dealing with the perceived cold shoulder: persevere. A welcome thaw is likely to be close at hand.

Markets and Bargaining

Israel's open-air markets are just the place to soak up local culture while shopping for snacks to stock your hotel room. Many produce markets also have stalls selling cheap clothing and other textiles. Machaneh Yehuda in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv's Carmel Market are famous. For markets that sell decorative brass, ceramic and glass items, beads, embroidered dresses, and jackets or secondhand funky clothes, head to Jerusalem's Old City or the Jaffa Flea Market.

Bargaining can be fun—but there are some useful pointers. Never answer the question "how much do you want to pay?" When the seller names a price, come back with about half. If the seller balks, be prepared to walk out; if you're called back, they want to make a sale. If you're in a hurry, vendors will know it and won't drop the price. Not every vendor will be in the mood for the bargaining game: Don't begin the process unless your intentions are serious.

Café Culture

Café sitting is an integral part of Israeli life, especially in the cities where it seems as if there's one on every corner. The locals love their café hafuch (latte: literally, "upside-down coffee"). In many cafés a request for cappuccino gets you the same beverage, perhaps with more froth and a shake of cinnamon. Rival Israeli coffee chains have multiplied like crazy across the country since the late '90s. The coffee, invariably made in Italian machines, is usually excellent. Unlike European cafés where the waiters get antsy if you stay too long, in Israel you can sit unhassled. Most cafés offer reasonably priced full breakfasts, sandwiches, main-dish salads, quiche, pizza, and soup. There are also upscale bistro-cafés, great for everything from a glass of wine to a heartier meal.