Israel Feature

Archaeology

For earlier Israeli generations, archaeology was something of a national sport. It's still riveting to walk where the ancients did—-and often you can read about the very site in the Bible.

Old Testament stuff doesn't get better than Megiddo, with its 25 strata of history. Get a free brochure with your ticket, and take a few minutes in the tiny museum. Explore Second Temple period remains at Masada (again, take the brochure—-and find 30 minutes for the wonderful museum), near the Dead Sea, and monumental masonry and audiovisuals at the Jerusalem Archaeological Park (Davidson Center). On the Mediterranean, Caesarea, with its Roman theater, hippodrome, sunken harbor, mosaics and Crusader ruins, is a must-see for many. Capernaum, by the Sea of Galilee, was a Jewish town with New Testament echoes: minimal explanations, but an ancient synagogue and church remains evoke the story.

If a hands-on excavation, dirt and all, appeals to the Indiana Jones within you, Archaeological Seminars has a year-round Dig for a Day program—-actually three hours of fun—-in the caves of Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park. More heavy-duty digs require a one-week minimum commitment from its volunteers; some insist on a month. Most are scheduled for the spring or summer. For a list of expeditions looking for pay-your-own-way labor, browse the Internet and follow the links; they change from year to year.

In Jerusalem, reinforce your newfound archaeological expertise with a visit (best with a docent) to the Israel Museum's excellent Archaeological Wing, or the neighboring Bible Lands Museum.

The Great Outdoors

Think green. After a tour of the cities and sites, visit one or more of Israel's tranquil nature reserves to mellow out and commune with the flora and fauna. It's also a great way to experience the diversity of the countryside.

The Hula Valley, in the Upper Galilee, is the best-watered part of the country. Tel Dan Nature Reserve is a fairyland of brooks and streams. It also has impressive biblical ramparts and a high place as an added bonus.

The Banias (officially the Hermon Stream Nature Reserve) seeps out softly beneath Mt. Hermon, right at a shrine to Pan, and then churns its way south. An easy trail offers great views of waterfalls and cataracts.

Israel is a major bird migration route from northeastern Europe to Africa in the autumn, and back again in the spring. Many of the estimated 500 million frequent flyers rest awhile in the wetlands Hula Nature Reserve (where you sometimes get tantalizing views of water buffalo, wolves and water creatures) and nearby Agmon Ha-Hula, popular with pelicans and noisy cranes.

On the Golan Heights, eagles and griffon vultures nest in the craggy Gamla Nature Reserve. View a fine waterfall, and visit remains of one of the oldest synagogues ever found.

Do you like caves? The small but exquisite Soreq Cave (Avshalom Reserve), not far from Jerusalem, boasts almost every type of stalactite formation known.

Desert Adventures

The desert has its own subtle beauty. No wonder that contemplative religions were born there, or that hermits sought solitude on its hillsides. Your excursion can be as short as a few hours or as long as a day, or several days. Tours can be booked through travel agents or through your hotel, but some tours don't operate in the hot summers. On all hikes, make sure you wear a hat and good walking shoes, and drink plenty of water.

The booming silence of Makhtesh Ramon, the wild canyons behind Eilat, and the enormous ravines of the Judean Desert attract serious hikers, but should not be done alone. Consider an organized hike with (for example) the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel.

Running water in the desert is pure magic. The photo-op canyon of Ein Avdat, near Sde Boker, south of Beersheba, is easily accessible. The Ein Gedi oasis, near the Dead Sea, offers a twofer: the shorter but often crowded Nahal David, and the much longer, more primeval Nahal Arugot trail. Both have natural freshwater pools and waterfalls, and are home to ibex (wild goats) and hyrax (small furry creatures).

Hai Bar, a nature reserve 30 minutes north of Eilat, breeds biblical animals that are now endangered species. The horned addax and oryx, and the ostrich and the Somali wild ass may be released into the wild once numbers justify it. Predators—-animals, birds and reptiles—-are kept in a zoolike environment. Tour alone or (better) with a local guide.

If you prefer to travel by other means than by foot, you can sign up to see the desert by Jeep. Another option is a camel trip into the Negev northwest of Eilat.

Sacred Spaces

Sanctity comes in different forms in the Holy Land, and its sights, sounds, smells and textures make for a multisensory experience as well. Some pilgrims find the hubbub at many sites disconcerting, but keep in mind that most places were not pristine and ethereal in their day either.

For Christians of every denomination, Israel offers a unique opportunity to follow in the footsteps of Jesus. From the Sea of Galilee to the Jordan River and Nazareth, scripture comes alive. Ride a boat, explore ancient Capernaum, and contemplate the landscape where Jesus preached. In Jerusalem, the Garden of Gethsemane, the Via Dolorosa, and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher evoke the scenes of Jesus' final days. The Garden Tomb is a mandatory stop for many Protestants.

For the Jewish faith, the holiest place in the world is the Western Wall, a remnant of Jerusalem's ancient Temple Mount. Graves traditionally identified with biblical figures, Talmudic sages, and medieval rabbis dot the Galilee. The tombs of King David in Jerusalem and Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai on Mt. Meron in Upper Galilee are famous. But for many Jews, the entire land, rather than individual sites, is biblical and blessed.

The black-domed al-Aqsa Mosque, in Jerusalem's Haram esh-Sharif (or Temple Mount), is the third-holiest place in Islam. The golden Dome of the Rock nearby is built on the spot where the Prophet Muhammad is believed to have ascended to the heavens to receive the teachings of Islam.

The landmark gold-domed Baha'i Shrine on the slopes of Mt. Carmel, in Haifa, covers the tomb of the Bab, the forerunner of the Baha'i faith. Its gardens provide a serene environment for this gentle faith.