Israel Feature

Israel's main markets are found in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. As for bargaining (not done at produce stalls)—sure, give it a go, but these days it's a hard drive, so decide if you want to have fun playing the game, or not. The difference in price is likely to be less than you think.

Jerusalem

The Machaneh Yehuda Market offers produce that is as flavorful as it is colorful. Recent additions to this collection of alleys running off the main market street include a sprinkling of boutique cafés and unusual restaurants, and stalls selling clothes from India. The market, quite a bit cheaper than the supermarket, is a great place to grab some goodies while on the go or for the hotel room later. Think globally: start the fun with an Indian lassi (yogurt drink); and try the French cheeses and hearty whole-grain bread. Then you must—but must—end such a meal with a chunk of sweet sesame halvah.

Weaving through the Old City market (the souk) will cast you even further back in time. Lavish rugs and fabrics, oriental ceramics, blown-glass items, not-so-antique antiques, beads, embroidered kaftans, and leather thongs line the stone alleyways. Be cautious about buying items with an intrinsic value: gold, silver, precious stones, and antiquities may not be as advertised. Almost all the salespeople here speak English, but a polite quip or two thrown at them in Arabic—-check the nuances first!—-may bring a wonderful smile, and perhaps a little discount. There's hummus and pickles, Arabic coffee and honey-dripping pastries to buy. Go to the Austrian Hospice (actually a guesthouse) at Station III on the Via Dolorosa for real Wiener schnitzel and apple strudel (but don't let them rubberize them in a microwave). Some well-established stores can handle shipping of items. And beware of pickpockets (your passport is best left in the hotel safe).

Tel Aviv

The Carmel Market, or Shuk Hacarmel, begins at its top end (Allenby Road), with stalls of clothes and housewares, and then becomes the city's primary produce market, extending almost down to the sea. The scents are sensational—fresh greens (mint, parsley, basil), lemons and other citrus fruit, salty herring, and more. It can get packed—hold onto your belongings, though pickpocketing is not usually the problem here. The shuk borders the Yemenite Quarter, with a host of small eateries offering Yemenite cooking.

You'll find some true artisans at the Nahalat Binyamin Pedestrian Mall, primarily a crafts market, along with the unsung peddlers of imported goods. It's a great place to pick up original and reasonably priced gifts. The pedestrian street converges with the Carmel Market at its Allenby Street end. It's lively, with street performers sharing space with shoppers and strollers. Because it is only open on Tuesdays and Fridays, it gets pretty crowded—especially on Fridays and as holidays approach—though the vibe is always cheery.

The Jaffa Flea Market in Jaffa is another such shopping option. In the warren of small streets you can shop for—or just take in the view of—rugs, Mideast finjan coffee sets (with the tiny cups for that strong, strong coffee), clothes from India, jewelry, retro lamps, and other junk-mixed-with-bargains. Along with stores and stalls are many small workshops—tinsmiths and carpenters, for example.