Bus Travel

Buses can take you almost anywhere in Israel. City bus routes are run exclusively by Egged, except in metropolitan Tel Aviv, where Dan provides some competition. Buses in Israel are clean, comfortable, and air-conditioned. Intercity bus fares vary according to the distance traveled. During weekday rush hours allow time for long lines at the obligatory security checks to enter the bus station. Buses are often overcrowded on Saturday nights after Shabbat and always on Sunday mornings when it looks like the entire Israeli army is returning to base after a weekend at home.

The Central Bus Station in Tel Aviv resembles the work of a mad scientist. The stark concrete building has multiple entrances on several levels, endless corridors, and a confusing array of platforms. It's all topped off by dozens of kiosks selling fast food and cheap merchandise. By contrast, Jerusalem's Central Bus Station is clean, well organized, and easy to navigate. There's a pleasant food court, an ATM, an efficient information desk, and branches of some of the country's best-known stores.

Although the buses resemble those in most other countries, there are a few quirks. When you're in Jerusalem, remember that the ultra-Orthodox population primarily uses Buses 1 and 2, which service the Western Wall area. It's generally accepted that women sit separately in the rear of the bus. Women should never sit in an empty seat next to an ultra-Orthodox man and shouldn't be offended if a man would rather stand than sit beside them in an empty seat. (And in case you're wondering, ultra-Orthodox women generally accept this arrangement.)

Frequent bus service is available between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Egged Bus 405 runs from the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station, and Bus 480 from the Arlozorov Street terminal, each with two to five departures per hour, depending on the time of day (NIS 19.70). There is a similar service to Jerusalem from most major cities, terminating at the Central Bus Station. The two small bus stations in East Jerusalem are for private, Palestinian-operated bus lines, with daily service to West Bank towns such as Bethlehem and Jericho.

Fares

For both local and long-distance travel, drivers accept payment in shekels. Drivers on the long-distance buses will grumble when they have to make change for a bill over NIS 100, so make sure to have smaller denominations. Unless you're running to catch a bus, it's almost always faster to buy your ticket at the station. On city buses you don't need exact change.

For travel between major cities and within each city, Egged offers good rates on packs of 10 or more tickets and monthly passes that give you an unlimited number of rides. These may be purchased at any city bus station or on the bus. These are particularly good for children and senior citizens, who get large discounts. Children under age five ride free whether or not they occupy their own seat.

The fare on all city routes is NIS 6.20. If you'll be taking another bus within 75 minutes, ask for a free ma'avar, or transfer ticket. Intercity fares are based on distance traveled. The one-hour trip between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem will cost you about NIS 20, while the three-hour journey between Tel Aviv and Tiberias runs about NIS 47. There are no advance reservations except to Eilat.

Schedules

All bus service is available Sunday to Thursday from 5:30 am to 12:30 am. Keep in mind that public transportation in all cities except Haifa ceases to run on Jewish holidays and on Shabbat, which lasts from sundown Friday afternoon to an hour after sundown Saturday evening. Be sure to give yourself extra time if traveling just before Shabbat.

Every large bus station has an information booth where you'll generally be able to find schedule and platform information in English. Bus maps in English are virtually nonexistent—just tell the clerk where you want to go and you'll probably get a handwritten map.

Tours

Egged operates Route 99, a two-hour circle tour of Jerusalem for visitors. Its distinctive red double-decker buses are equipped with audio explanations in eight languages (via individual headphones). The route begins at the Central Bus Station at the city's western entrance, and its 24 stops include the Machaneh Yehuda market, the edge of the downtown, Mt. Scopus, City of David, Dung Gate, Mt. Zion, Jaffa Gate, City Hall (Safra Square), King David Hotel (and other hotels en route), Haas Promenade, Jerusalem (Malcha) Mall, the railway station at the Biblical Zoo, Mt. Herzl, Yad Vashem, Israel Museum, the Knesset, and the Supreme Court. Departures are Sunday to Thursday at 9 am, 11 am, 1:30 pm, 3:45 pm, and 6 pm (the last tour does not operate from November to February). On Friday and the eves of Jewish holidays, the last bus leaves at 1:30 pm. The cost is NIS 60 for one full trip, NIS 80 for a one-day ticket (unlimited transfers), and NIS 130 for an unlimited two-day ticket; children's discounts are available.

In Tel Aviv, Dan operates the hop-on, hop-off Route 100. The two-hour circuit, which begins at the Reading Terminal in north Tel Aviv, departs Sunday to Thursday at 9 am, 11 am, noon, 1 pm, 2 pm, 3 pm, and 4 pm. On Friday, buses leave until 2 pm. The fare is NIS 45. There are 28 stops along the way, including Tel Aviv University, Dizengoff Center, and Carmel Market.

Bus Information

Dan (03/639-4444. www.dan.co.il/english/default.asp.)

East Jerusalem Bus Station. Sultan Suleiman St., opposite Damascus Gate, East Jerusalem, Jerusalem, 91190. 054/449-3088.

Egged (03/694-8888. www.egged.co.il/eng.)

Jerusalem Central Bus Station. 224 Jaffa Rd., Romema, Jerusalem, 94383. 03/694-8888.