By Air

O. R. Tambo International Airport (formerly Johannesburg International Airport) is Africa's busiest airport. More than 17 million travelers pass through every year. It's about 19 km (12 mi) from Johannesburg and is linked to the city by a fast highway, which is always busy, but especially so before 9 AM and 4-7 PM, when commuters use it most. Most international flights depart from this airport, which has been refurbished in the last several years and now looks a bit like an upscale mall. There's a tourist information desk in the international arrivals terminal, and the domestic terminal offers a slew of restaurants and coffee shops. There's also a duty-free mall and V.A.T. refund office. You can also leave your bags at Lock-Up Luggage, which is one level below international departures. It costs about $5 per bag per day. Information and airport maps can be obtained from the ACSA Web site. Flight and general information is available from the airport itself. There are a number of hotels near the airport, as well as one within the airport precinct.

Expect long lines at check-in counters in the early evening, when many long-distance flights depart, but the lines move quickly; it shouldn't take more than a half hour to get through. Baggage claim usually takes about 15 minutes. The airport has its own police station, but security has been a problem in recent years, with many people's baggage being stolen either in transit or even within the airport itself. Be vigilant and keep your belongings close and within your sight at all times.

Major airlines serving Johannesburg include Air Namibia, British Airways, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, South African Airways, and Virgin Atlantic, among others. In addition to South African Airways, the major domestic carriers serving Johannesburg are British Airways, operated by Comair, and SA Airlink. In the past few years several good-quality, low-cost domestic airlines have sprung up, and all are worth flying -- they tend to have less legroom and smaller seats, and you will need to pay for snacks on board, but they're usually considerably cheaper than SAA and its affiliates.

Ground Transfers

Magic Bus operates a minibus service that connects to all the major hotels in Sandton. It runs all day on the half hour, costs R110, and takes 30 minutes to an hour. Airport Link will ferry you anywhere in Johannesburg in a Toyota Camry or Mercedes minibus for R255 per person. Wilro Tours charges R465 to Sandton for three people. In addition, scores of licensed taxis line up outside the airport terminal. By law they must have a working meter. Expect to pay about R250-R350 for a trip to Sandton. If you're transferring directly between a train or an intercity bus and the airport, head to the Rotunda; the main hub for airport shuttles, it's outside the Johannesburg train station at Leyds and Loveday streets. It's not a particularly safe area, so avoid it if you can.

Airlines

American Airlines (021/440-6440). British Airways (011/441-8600). KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (011/881-9696). Qantas (011/441-8550). SA Airlink (011/978-1111, flies to some of the smaller, out-of-the-way domestic locations. Singapore Airlines (011/880-8566). South African Airways (011/978-1111). Virgin Atlantic (011/340-3400).

Airport

ACSA (www.acsa.co.za). O. R. Tambo International Airport (086/727-7888 help line).

Airport Transfers

Airport Link (011/792-2017 or 083/625-5090. www.airportlink.co.za). Magic Bus (011/548-0822. www.magicbus.co.za). Wilro Tours (011/789-9688. www.wilrotours.co.za).

Low-Cost Domestic Airlines

Kulula.com (0861/585-852. www.kulula.com). Mango (0861/162-646. www.flymango.com). 1Time (0861/345-345. www.1time.co.za).