By Air

Beijing is one of China's three major international hubs, along with Shanghai and Hong Kong. You can catch a nonstop flight here from New York (13¾ hours), Chicago (13 1/2 hours), Sydney (11 1/2 hours), Los Angeles (13 hours), and London (11 hours). Note that Air China is the only operator that runs nonstop Los Angeles and London flights. Otherwise flights from Los Angeles generally stop in Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong, or Vancouver, taking between 17 and 25 hours.

Though most airlines say that reconfirming your return flight is unnecessary, some local airlines cancel your seat if you don't reconfirm. Play it safe: check with your airline beforehand.

Airports

The efficient Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) is 27 km (17 mi) northeast of the city center. There are two terminals, connected by a walkway. China Southern's domestic flights operate out of Terminal 1; all other airlines out of Terminal 2. If you can't find your flight on the departure board when you arrive, check that you're in the correct terminal.

Beijing's airport tax (enigmatically known as the "airport construction fee") is Y90 for international flights and Y50 for domestic. You pay before check-in by purchasing a coupon from the booths inside the terminal, which is then collected at the entrance to the main departure hall.

Clearing customs and immigration can take a while, especially in the morning, so make sure you arrive at least two hours before your scheduled flight time.

Both Chinese and Western-style fast-food outlets abound -- Starbucks and KFC are just two names you'll recognize. Most are open from around 7 AM to 11 PM. Be warned that prices for even a soft drink vary wildly from place to place.

The airport is open all day and there is an uninspiring transit lounge in which to while away the hours. If you've got a long stopover and need a rest, consider buying a package from the Plaza Premium Traveler's Lounge, near Gate 11. It has comfortable armchairs, Internet access, newspapers, and a buffet. Unfortunately, it's closed between midnight and 6 AM. There's another rest area in the basement, with private rooms, which is open 24 hours. The third-floor recreation center has traditional massage facilities and a hairdresser.

While wandering the airport, someone may approach you offering to carry your luggage, or even just to give you directions. Be aware that this "helpful" stranger will almost certainly expect payment.

Airport Information

Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) (010/6456-3604. www.bcia.com.cn).

Ground Transportation

The easiest way to get from the airport to Beijing is by taxi. In addition, most major hotels have representatives at the airport able to arrange a car or minivan. When departing from Beijing by plane, prebook airport transport through your hotel.

When you arrive, head for the clearly labeled taxi line just outside the terminal, beyond a small covered parking area. The (usually long) line moves quickly. Ignore offers from touts trying to coax you away from the line -- they're privateers looking to rip you off. At the head of the line, a dispatcher will give you your taxi's number, useful in case of complaints or forgotten luggage. Prices per kilometer are displayed on the side of the cab. Insist that drivers use their meters, and do not negotiate a fare. If the driver is unwilling to comply, feel free to change taxis.

Most of the taxis serving the airport are large-model cars, with a flagfall of Y12 (good for 3 1/2 km) plus Y2 per additional kilometer. The trip to the center of Beijing costs around Y100, including the Y10 toll for the airport expressway. If you're caught in rush-hour traffic, expect standing surcharges. In light traffic it takes about 40 minutes to reach the city center, during rushhour expect a one-hour cab ride. After 11 PM, taxis impose a 20% late-night surcharge.

Air-conditioned airport shuttle buses are a cheaper way of getting into town. There are six numbered routes, all of which leave from outside the arrivals area. Tickets cost Y16 -- buy them from the ticket booth just inside the arrivals hall. Most services run every 15 to 30 minutes. There's a detailed route map on the airport Web site.

Flights

Air China is the country's flagship carrier. It operates nonstop flights from Beijing to various North American and European cities. Its safety record has improved dramatically, and it is now part of Star Alliance. China Southern is the major carrier for domestic routes. Like all Chinese carriers, it's a regional subsidiary of the Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC).

You can make reservations and buy tickets in the United States directly through airline Web sites or with travel agencies. It's worth contacting a Chinese travel agency like China International Travel Service (CITS) to compare prices, as these can vary substantially.

The service on most Chinese airlines is more on-par with low-cost American airlines than with big international carriers -- be prepared for limited legroom, iffy food, and possibly no personal TV. More important, always arrive at least two hours before departure, as chronic overbooking means latecomers lose their seats.

Airline Contacts

Continental Airlines (800/523 -- 3273 for U.S. and Mexico reservations; 800/231-0856 for international reservations. www.continental.com). Delta Airlines (800/221-1212 for U.S. reservations; 800/241-4141 for international reservations. www.delta.com). Northwest Airlines (800/225-2525. www.nwa.com). United Airlines (800/864-8331 for U.S. reservations; 800/538-2929 for international reservations. www.united.com).

Air Canada (010/6468-2001. www.aircanada.com). Air China (010/6601-7755. www.airchina.com). Air France (010/6588-1388. www.airfrance.com). All Nippon (010/6590-9191. www.fly-ana.com). Asiana (010/6468-4000. www.us.flyasiana.com). Austrian Airlines (010/6462-2161. www.austrianair.com). British Airways (010/6512-4070. www.ba.com). Cathay Pacific (010/8486-8532. www.cathaypacific.com). China Eastern (010/6468-1166. www.ce-air.com). China Southern (010/6459-0539 or 010/6459-6490. www.cs-air.com/en). Emirates (021/3222-9999 Shanghai. www.emirates.com). Japan Airlines (010/6513-0888. www.jal.com). KLM (010/6505-3505. www.klm.com). Lufthansa (010/6468-8838. www.lufthansa.com). Korean Air (010/6505-0088. www.koreanair.com). Northwest (010/6505-3505. www.nwa.com). Singapore Airlines (010/6505-2233. www.singaporeair.com). Thai Airways (010/8515-0088. www.thaiair.com). United (010/6463-1111; 800/810-8282 in China. www.ual.com).