You'll have to take a taxi to the quiet Sai Ying Pun residential neighborhood to sample the delights of this private kitchen, which, unlike most of Hong Kong's many so-called "speakeasy restaurants," is actually licensed. The chef, who goes by "Master Law," takes orders in advance for dishes from all over China, which might include chicken in a farmer's bucket, jumbo shrimp in sweet sauce, or Ningbo pine-nut fish. The restaurant also pitches a health-food angle, but as is generally the case in Hong Kong, it's dubious. This will take you well off the tourist track, and delightfully so.
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