Hiking

Hiking

Most visitors don't come for the lush lowlands, bamboo and pine forests, rugged mountains with panoramas of the sea, and secluded beaches, but nature is never very far from all the skyscrapers. Truth be told about 40% of Hong Kong is protected in 23 parks, including three marine parks and one marine reserve.

Don't expect to find the wilderness wholly unspoiled, however. Few upland areas escape Hong Kong's relentless plague of hill fires for more than a few years at a time. Some are caused by dried-out vegetation; others erupt from small graveside fires set by locals to clear the land around ancestors' eternal resting spots. Partly because of these fires, most of Hong Kong's forests, except for a few spots in the New Territories, have no obvious wildlife other than birds -- and mosquitoes. Bring repellent.

Gear

Necessities include sunglasses or a hat, bottled water, day pack, and sturdy hiking boots. Wear layered clothing; weather tends to be warm during the day and cold toward nightfall. The cliff sides get quite windy. If you need some basics, there are several options.

Although it doesn't sell the same range of equipment, backpacks, and clothes you'd find back home, Great Outdoor Clothing Company (Basement, Silvercord Bldg., 30 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. 2730-9009) will do in a pinch. Timberland (Shop 212, Pacific Pl., 88 Queensway, Admiralty. 2868-0845) sells hiking boots, backpacks, and appropriate togs. World Sports Co. Ltd. (2/F, 83 Fa Yuen St., Mong Kok, Kowloon. 2396-9357) caters to your every outdoor need with a very helpful staff.

Pick up guides such as Hong Kong Hikes from any bookstore. You can buy trail maps at the Government Publications Centre (Pacific Pl., Government Office, G/F, 66 Queensway, Admiralty. 2537-1910). Ask for blueprints of the trails and the Countryside Series maps. Note that the HM20C series has handsome four-color maps, but they're not very reliable. The HKTB also provides maps with good walking trails and hikes.

Trails

Dragon's Back. One of the most popular trails crosses the "rooftop" of Hong Kong Island. Take the Peak Tram from Central up Victoria Peak, and tackle as much or as little of the range as you feel like -- there are numerous exits "downhill" to public-transport networks. Surprisingly wild country feels a world away from the urban bustle below, and the panoramas -- of Victoria Harbour on one side, and South Island and outlying islands on the other -- are spectacular. You can follow the trail all the way to the delightful seaside village of Shek O, where you can relax over an evening dinner before returning to the city by minibus or taxi. The most popular route, and shorter if you're not up for a huge hike, is from Shek O Country Park. Take the MTR from Central to Shaukeiwan, then Bus 9, alight after the first roundabout, near the crematorium. The entire trip takes the better part of an unforgettable day.

Lion Rock. The easiest way to access the trail to Lion Rock, a spectacular summit, is from Kowloon. The hike passes through dense woodland with bamboo groves along the Eagle's Nest Nature Trail and up open slopes to Beacon Hill for 360-degree views over hills and the city. The contrasting vistas of green hills and the cityscape are extraordinary. There's a climb up the steep rough track to the top of Lion Rock, a superb vantage point for appreciating Kowloon's setting between hills and sea. The trail ends at Wong Tai Sin Taoist Temple, where you can have your fortune told. To start, catch the MTR to Choi Hung (15 minutes from Tsim Sha Tsui) and a 10-minute taxi ride up Lion Rock. From Wong Tai Sin, return by MTR.

MacLehose Trail. Named after a former Hong Kong governor, the 97-km (60-mi) MacLehose is the grueling course for the annual charity event, the MacLehose Trailwalker. Top teams finish the hike in an astonishing 15 hours. Mere mortals should allow three to four days from beginning to end or simply tackle one section or another on a day hike or two.

This isolated trail through the New Territories starts at Tsak Yue Wu, beyond Sai Kung, and circles High Island Reservoir before breaking north. A portion takes you through the Sai Kung Country Park, Hong Kong's most beloved preserve, and up a mountain called Ma On Shan. Turn south for a high-ridge view, and walk through Ma On Shan Country Park. From here walk west along the ridges of the mountains known as the Eight Dragons, which gave Kowloon its name.

After crossing Tai Po Road, the path follows a ridge to the summit of Tai Mo Shan (Big Hat Mountain), which, at 3,140 feet above sea level, is Hong Kong's tallest mountain. On a clear day you can even see the spire of the Bank of China building in Central from here. Continuing west, the trail drops to Tai Lam Reservoir and Tuen Mun, where you can catch public transport back to the city. To reach Tsak Yue Wu, take the MTR to Choi Hung and then Bus 92 or 96R, or Minibus 1 to Sai Kung Town. From Sai Kung Town, take Bus 94 to the country park.

An easier way to access Tai Mo Shan is via an old military road. En route you'll see the old British barracks, now occupied by the People's Liberation Army. A lookout about two-thirds of the way up affords views of rolling green hills in the foreground and urban development in the distance. Take the MTR to Tsuen Wan and exit the station at Shiu Wo Street, then catch Minibus 82.

Wilson Trail. The 78-km (48-mi) long trail runs from Stanley Gap on the south end of Hong Kong Island, through rugged peaks that have a panoramic view of Repulse Bay and the nearby Round and Middle islands, and to Nam Chung in the northeastern New Territories. You have to cross the harbor by MTR at Quarry Bay to complete the entire walk. The trail is smoothed by steps paved with stone, and footbridges aid with steep sections and streams. Clearly marked with signs and information boards, this popular walk is divided into 10 sections, and you can easily take just one or two (figure on three to four hours a section); traversing the whole trail takes about 31 hours.

Section 1, which starts at Stanley Gap Road, is only for the very fit. Much of it requires walking up steep mountain grades. For an easier walk, try Section 7, which begins at Sing Mun Reservoir and takes you along a greenery-filled, fairly level path that winds past the eastern shore of the Sing Mun Reservoir in the New Territories and then descends to Tai Po, where there's a sweeping view of Tolo Harbour. Other sections will take you through the monkey forest at the Kowloon Hill Fitness Trail, over mountains, and past charming Chinese villages.