This nostalgic replica of old Shanghai is part of a chain expanding across Asia. The old-fashioned setting includes 1950s furnishings and ceiling fans. First there are the dumplings: an exemplary version of steamed pork soup dumplings, for instance; then, entrées like pork knuckle braised in sweet soy sauce, or braised meatballs ("lion's head"). For dessert, try the Shanghai staple, deep-fried egg white stuffed with banana and mashed red-bean paste. Reserve early for comfortable booth seats or window tables. A band plays Chinese oldies on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights.
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