By Air in Hong Kong

By Air

Flying time to Hong Kong is around 16 1/2 hours direct from Newark/New York, 13 1/2 hours direct from Los Angeles, or 12¼ hours direct from San Francisco.

Airports

The sleek, sophisticated Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) is never called by its official name; it's universally referred to as Chek Lap Kok, which is where it's located. At almost a mile long, its Y-shape passenger terminal is the world's biggest.

Chek Lap Kok is one of the friendliest, most efficient airports around. Walkways connect the check-in and arrival halls with nearby gates. An electric train glides to gates at the end of the terminal. Restaurants, fast-food outlets, and bars abound -- try Oliver's Super Sandwiches for snacks; Grappa's and Cafe Deco are both good bets for a bigger meal. Most eateries are open from 7 AM to 11 PM or midnight; only local chain Café de Coral in the east departures hall is open 24 hours.

There's Wi-Fi access all over the passenger terminal after check-in, but you have to pay for it. The Internet is free at the PCs in the Cyber Lounges near Gates 20 and 60. You can also surf the Net or make calls from the high-tech PowerPhones throughout the terminal.

If you're going to be overnighting at Chek Lap Kok, consider buying a package from the Plaza Premium Traveler's Lounge, near Gate 60. It has a rest area, showers, free 15-minute massages, Internet access, newspapers, and a 24-hour buffet -- an overnight package costs HK$450. Note that there are no other public showers or spa or massage facilities at Chek Lap Kok.

Check in at least two hours before departing from Chek Lap Kok. If you're flying to anyplace but the United States and plan on taking the train to the airport, most major airlines let you use the In-Town check-in service at the Hong Kong or Kowloon Airport Express stations. You can check your bags up to 24 hours before your flight -- a boon if you're flying at night and don't want to return to your hotel to look for your bags. The service closes 1 1/2 hours before your flight-time. After September 11, 2001, carriers flying to the United States discontinued In-Town check-in indefinitely. Check with your carrier beforehand in case the rules have changed.

Airport tax is normally included in your ticket price. If it's not, hold on to HK$120 for the airport tax, payable on departure from the country. It's only levied on those 12 years and older and is waived for all transit and transfer passengers who arrive and leave on the same day. When you go through immigration, have your Hong Kong entry slip (given to you on arrival) ready to show officials along with your passport.

The arrivals hall is vast, so you might have trouble finding those who come to meet you. Each flight is allocated one of the two exit points, A and B, so stick with yours to avoid confusion.

Airport Information

Hong Kong International Airport (852/2181-0000. www.hkairport.com). Plaza Premium Lounge (852/2261-2068. www.plaza-ppl.com).

Ground Transportation

The Airport Express train service is the quickest and most convenient way to and from the airport. Gleaming, high-speed trains whisk you to Kowloon in 19 minutes and Central in 24 minutes. Trains run every 12 minutes between 5:50 AM and 1:15 AM daily. There's plenty of luggage space, legroom, and comfortable seating with TV screens on the backs of the passenger seats showing tourist information and the latest news. Although it's the most expensive public transport option, the speed and efficiency make it well worth the extra cost.

The Airport Express station is connected to the MTR's Tung Chung, Kowloon and Central stations -- the latter is via a long, underground walkway with no luggage carts, however. One-way or same-day return fare to or from Central is HK$100; from Kowloon, HK$90. Round-trip tickets valid for one month cost HK$180 for Central and HK$160 for Kowloon. The Airport Express also runs free shuttle buses every 12 minutes between major hotels and its Hong Kong and Kowloon stations -- there are seven routes. To board, you must show your ticket, boarding pass, or Airport Express ticket.

Citybus runs five buses ("A" precedes the bus number) from Chek Lap Kok to popular destinations. They have fewer stops than regular buses, which have an "E" before their number, so are more expensive. Two useful routes are the A11, serving Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay; and the A21, going to Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan, and Mong Kok. There's plenty of space and onboard announcements in English, so you won't miss your stop.

Several small shuttle buses with an "S" before their number run to nearby Tung Chung MTR station, where you can get the MTR to Central and Kowloon. The trains follow the airport express route, but are a little slower and ¼ of the cost.

Taxis from the airport are reliable and plentiful and cost around HK$340 for Hong Kong Island destinations and HK$270 for Kowloon destinations, plus HK$5 per piece of luggage. Two limo services in the arrivals hall, Parklane and Intercontinental, will run you into town in style. Depending on the zone and the type of car, limo rides from the airport range from HK$500 to HK$600.

Contacts

Airport Express (2881-8888 for MTR hotline. www.mtr.com.hk). Citybus (2873-0818. www.citybus.com.hk). Intercontinental Hire Car (2261-2155. www.trans-island.com.hk). Parklane Limousine Service (2261-0303. www.hongkonglimo.com).

Flights

Cathay Pacific is Hong Kong's flagship carrier. It maintains high standards, with friendly service, good in-flight food, and an excellent track record for safety -- all of which drive its prices higher than some of the other regional carriers. Cathay has nonstop flights from both Los Angeles and San Francisco on the west coast and from New York-JFK on the east, with connecting services to many other U.S. cities. Singapore Airlines is usually slightly less expensive and offers direct flights to San Francisco on the west coast and Newark on the east coast. Considerably less comfortable, Continental also frequently offers good price deals, and has a nonstop flight to Hong Kong from Newark Liberty International Airport. Several other airlines offer service from the United States to Hong Kong, sometimes with connections in Asia.

Airline Contacts

Cathay Pacific Airways (800/233-2742 in U.S.; 800/268-6868 in Canada; 2747-1888 in Hong Kong. www.cathay-usa.com). China Airlines (800/227-5118; 2868-2299 in Hong Kong. www.chinaairlines.com.hk). Continental Airlines (800/523-3273 for U.S. and Mexico reservations; 800/231-0856 for international reservations; 852/3198-5777 in Hong Kong. www.continental.com). Singapore Airlines (800/742-3333 in U.S.; 852/2520-2233 in Hong Kong. www.singaporeair.com).