Shanghai: By Air

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By Air

Shanghai is one of China's three major international hubs, along with Beijing and Hong Kong. You can catch a nonstop flight there from Chicago (14 1/2 hours), San Francisco (17 hours), Los Angeles (16 hours), Sydney (13 hours), and London (12 hours). Note that China Eastern is the only operator that runs nonstop LA and London flights. Flights from New York generally have a stopover in Beijing, Hong Kong, or a U.S. city, and take between 17 and 25 hours.

Though most airlines say that reconfirming your return flight is unnecessary, some local airlines cancel your seat if you don't reconfirm. Play it safe, and check with your airline carefully.

Airports

Shanghai has two major airports: most international flights go through ultramodern Pudong International Airport (PVG), 45 km (30 mi) east of the city, wheras domestic routes operate out of the older Hongqiao International Airport (SHA), 15 km (9 mi) west of the city center.

Both Pudong and Hongqiao have a departure tax of Y90 for international flights and Y50 for domestic.You pay before check-in by purchasing a coupon from booths (near the check-in counters at Pudong, or just inside the terminal at Hongqiao); this coupon is collected at the entrance to the main departure hall.

Clearing customs and immigration can take a while, especially at overcrowded Pudong, so make sure you arrive at least two hours before your scheduled flight time. Check-in desks at Pudong are not always clearly signed, so bank on hunting around a little. Likewise, prepare for some exercise between immigration and the gate: this is one big airport, and there are few people movers. Hongqiao may look worn and tattered in comparison, but fewer passengers and smaller distances make both departure and arrival processes smoother and quicker. Indeed, many business travelers prefer to fly to Hongqiao.

At Pudong, both Chinese and Western-style fast-food outlets abound -- Starbucks and KFC are two names you'll recognize -- but quality is generally poor. Most are open from around 7 AM to 11 PM. Be warned that prices for even a soft drink vary wildly from place to place. Take ample distractions in case of delays: the shopping in both airports is poor, and even airline business-class lounges have limited Internet access and little entertainment.

While wandering either airport, someone may approach you offering to carry your luggage, or even just give you directions. This "helpful" stranger will almost certainly expect payment. Many of the X-ray machines used for large luggage items aren't film-safe, so keep film in your carry-on luggage.

Airport Information

Hongqiao International Airport (021/6268-8918. www.shanghaiairport.com). Pudong International Airport (021/9608-1388. www.shanghaiairport.com).

Ground Transportation

Taking a taxi is the most comfortable way into town from Pudong International Airport. Expect to pay around Y150 to Y160 for the hourlong trip to Puxi; getting to the closer Pudong area takes 40 minutes and costs Y120. Note that at rush hour, journey times can easily double.

From Hongqiao, a taxi to Puxi starts at Y60 and takes 30 to 40 minutes; expect an hour for the costlier trip to Pudong hotels. A taxi from one airport to the other takes about an hour and costs Y200 to Y240.

When you arrive, head for the clearly labeled taxi stand just outside each terminal. The (usually long) line moves quickly. Ignore offers from touts trying to coax you away from the official taxi line -- they're privateers looking to rip you off. Insist that drivers use their meters, and do not negotiate a fare. If the driver is unwilling to comply, feel free to change taxis.

If you're feeling sci-fi, consider taking the flashy MagLev (magnetic levitation) train, which floats above its tracks at 430 kph (267 mph), whipping you to the Longyang Lu subway station in just eight minutes. Though exciting, the trip isn't very practical. Unless you're staying in eastern Pudong, you need to transfer to the subway to get downtown. This involves walking and suitcase-hauling and a ride of at least another half hour. The MagLev runs between 7 AM and 9 PM and costs Y50 one-way, so if there's more than two of you it makes economic sense to take a cab and save the ride for another day.

Many hotels offer free airport transfers to their guests -- ask when you book. Otherwise, shuttle buses link Pudong Airport with a number of hotels (routes starting with a letter) and transport hubs (routes starting with a number) in the city center. Timetables vary, but most services run every 10 to 20 minutes between roughly 7 AM and the last flight arrival (usually around midnight). Trips to Puxi take about 1 1/2 hours and cost between Y19 and Y30. From Hongqiao, Bus 925 runs to People's Square, but there's little room for luggage. It costs Y4.

Dazhong Taxi Company (021/96822). Jinjiang Taxi (021/96961). MagLev Train (021/2890-7777. www.smtdc.com). Pudong Airport Shuttle Buses (021/6834-6612). Qiangsheng Taxi (021/6258-0000).

Flights

Air China is China's flagship carrier. It operates nonstop flights from Shanghai to various North American and European cities. Although it once had a slightly sketchy safety record, the situation has improved dramatically, and it is now part of Star Alliance. China Southern is the major carrier for domestic routes, and connects Shanghai to cities all over the country, and is operating more and more international routes, as is China Eastern.

The service on most Chinese airlines is more on par with low-cost American airlines than with big international carriers -- be prepared for limited legroom, iffy food, and possibly no personal TV. More importantly, always arrive at least two hours before departure, as chronic overbooking means latecomers just don't get on.

You can make reservations and buy tickets in the United States directly through airline Web sites or with travel agencies. It's worth contacting a Chinese travel agency like China International Travel Service (CITS) to compare prices, as these can vary substantially.

Airline Contacts

Air Canada (021/6279-2999. www.aircanada.com). Air China (021/5239-7227 or 021/6269-2999. www.fly-airchina.com). Asiana (021/6219-4000. www.us.flyasiana.com). British Airways (800/810-8012. www.ba.com). China Eastern (021/6268-8899. www.ce-air.com). China Southern Airlines (021/6226-2299. www.cs-air.com/en). Japan Airlines (021/6288-3000. www.jal.com). Northwest Airlines (800/225-2525; 021/6884-6884 in Shanghai. www.nwa.com). Shanghai Airlines (021/6255-8888. www.shanghai-air.com). Singapore Airlines (021/6289-1000. www.singaporeair.com). Thai Airways (021/5298-5555. www.thaiair.com). United Airlines (800/864-8331 for U.S. reservations; 800/538-2929 for international reservations; 021/3311-4567 in Shanghai. www.united.com). Virgin Atlantic Airways (021/5353-4600. www.virgin-atlantic.com).