Shanghai: By Train

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By Train

China's enormous rail network is one of the world's busiest. Trains are usually safe and run strictly to schedule. Buying tickets can be complicated but trips are generally hassle-free.

Shanghai is connected to many destinations in China by direct train. Trains to southern China, including Hong Kong, will eventually leave from the gleaming Shanghai South Railway Station in Xuihui. Billed as the world's biggest circular station, it looks more like an airport inside than a train station. It opened in mid-2006 with limited services, but more routes will eventually transfer here. The huge ticketing hall is on the ground floor; the upstairs waiting room can accommodate over 16,000 people. Trains to northern and western China leave from the older Shanghai Railway Station. Both stations have easy transfers to the subway. The best train to catch to Beijing is the overnight express that leaves around 6 PM and arrives in Beijing the next morning. The express train for Hong Kong departs around noon and arrives at the Kowloon station 24 hours later.

The train system has four classes, but instead of first class and second class, in China you talk about hard and soft. Hard seats (yingzuo) are often rigid benchlike seats guaranteed to numb the buttocks within seconds; soft seats (ruanzuo) are more like the seats in long-distance American trains. For overnight journeys, the cheapest option is the hard sleeper (yingwo), open bays of six bunks, in two tiers of three. They're cramped, but not uncomfortable; however, you take your own bedding and share the toilet with everyone in the car. Soft sleepers (ruanwo) are more comfortable: their closed compartments have four beds and include bedding. Trains to Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Xian have a deluxe class, with only two berths per compartment and private bathrooms. The nonstop Z-series trains are even more luxurious. Train types are identifiable by the letter preceding the route number: Z is for nonstop, T is for a normal express.

Train fares are more expensive for foreigners than for the Chinese, and vary drastically depending on where you buy them. You can buy most tickets 10 days in advance; 2 to 3 days ahead is usually enough time, except during the three national holidays -- Chinese New Year (two days in mid-January to February), Labor Day (May 1), and National Day (October 1). If you can, avoid traveling then: tickets are sold out weeks in advance.

The cheapest rates are at the train station itself, where they only accept cash. Most travel agents, including China International Travel Service (CITS), can book you tickets for a small surcharge (Y20 to Y50), and save you the hassle of going to the station. You can also buy tickets through online retailers like China Train Ticket. They deliver the tickets to your hotel but you often end up paying much more than the station rate.

Overpriced dining cars serve meals that are often inedible, so you'd do better to make use of the massive thermoses of boiled water in each compartment and take along your own noodles or instant soup, like locals do. Trains are always crowded, but you are guaranteed your designated seat, though not always the overhead luggage rack. Note that theft on trains is increasing; on overnight trains, sleep with your valuables or else keep them on the inside of the bunk.

You can find out just about everything about Chinese train travel at Seat 61's fabulous Web site. China Highlights has a searchable online timetable for major train routes. The tour operator Travel China Guide has an English-language Web site that can help you figure out train schedules and fares.

Note that the operators at train station information numbers don't usually speak English.

Information

China Highlights (www.chinahighlights.com/china-trains/index.htm). Seat 61 (www.seat61.com/China.htm). Shanghai Railway Station (303 Moling Lu, Zhabei. 021/6317-9090). Shanghai South Railway Station (Between Liuzhou Lu and Humin Lu, Xuhui. 021/6317-6060). Travel China Guide (www.travelchinaguide.com/china-trains/index.htm).