Shimanami Kaido (Shimanami Sea Road)

Shimanami Kaido (Shimanami Sea Road) Review

By far the most scenic way to travel between Shikoku and western Honshu is the Shimanami Kaido. This series of 10 long bridges connects Imabari (just north of Matsuyama) with Onomichi (just east of Hiroshima) by way of a series of islands in the Seto Inland Sea. Most of the islands on the Shimanami route were accessible only by ferry until the bridges were completed in 1999, and despite the new infrastructure they still run on island time. A trip over the Shimanami bridges lets you take in fishing villages, tangerine orchards, pearl farms, seaweed pastures, and stretches of sparking sea. It's the only bridge between Shikoku and Honshu on which you can cycle, and it has quickly become one of the most popular cycling routes in western Japan.

Biking the Shimanami Kaido is a safe, exciting experience that anyone with a reasonable level of fitness can accomplish. The bridges were built with cyclists in mind: a separate cycling track runs along each bridge, so you won't deal with car traffic for almost the entire ride. Cycling paths are clearly marked on the islands, and maps are readily available. The cycling isn't strenuous, so don't get discouraged by the first big corkscrew pathway up from Imabari to the Kurushima Ohashi, or the unattractive hills on the first island, Oshima. After that it's clear sailing.

Biking straight to Onomichi takes about six hours, but you don't have to cycle the whole way: leave the bikes on any of the islands' rental stations and take a ferry or bus the rest of the way across. Staff at the rental stations have all the schedules and are very helpful. Your hotel can even send your luggage ahead.