Sai-kan

Sai-kan Review

This temple lodge connected to Dewa-Sanzan Jinja by a long stairway allows you to enjoy the shrine and scenery at the summit after most tourists have gone home. The cedar-lined approach is more than majestic, but inside, this shukubo, or monks' lodging, is spartan. The large tatami-mat rooms can be separated by fusuma (sliding paper doors on wood frames) to create smaller guest rooms. Two vegetarian meals of local goodies are served daily. If you are not vegetarian, fish can be added into the dinner. Its signature dish, tasty sesame tofu is thicker, richer, and creamer than regular tofu. The place is a madhouse at festival times, but because Sai-kan can handle 200 guests, one more person can probably flop down a futon and squeeze in. Early birds should join priests at the main shrine for morning prayers. It's a great way to start the day. Most important, ask the lodge or at the shrine's office in Shamusho to have your bags carried up to your room if you plan to climb Mt. Haguro from Haguro Center. Or you can check in first; the lodge is down from the summit (closest stop is Haguro Chojyo).