What's a Vegetarian to Do?

What's a Vegetarian to Do?

Tokyo is a great gastronomic center, but it can be a bit daunting for vegetarians. Most Japanese recipes use fish stock, and it's almost unheard of to ask chefs to tweak their recipes. If you do find a flexible eatery, your choice might still arrive with ham, bacon, or chicken, because in Japanese, none of these words fall semantically under the term "meat."

There are a handful of restaurants in Tokyo (such as Sasa-no-yuki) that specialize in shojin ryori. This traditional zen vegetarian food emphasizes natural flavors and fresh ingredients without using heavy spices or rich sauces. The variety and visual beauty of a full-course shojin ryori meal offers new dining dimensions to the vegetarian gourmet. Goma-dofu, or sesame-flavored bean curd, for example, is a tasty treat, as is nasu-dengaku, grilled eggplant covered with a sweet miso sauce.

The number of veggie-friendly oases is growing, but another safe bet is one of the city's numerous Italian and Indian joints. For a list of vegetarian restaurants, visit Tokyo Vegetarian Guide (www.vegietokyo.com). Here are four favorites:

Itosho. At this zen restaurant, food arrives in a procession of 13 tiny dishes, each selected according to season, texture, and color. Dinner costs between ¥8,400 and ¥10,500, and reservations must be made at least two days in advance.[. 3-4-7 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku. 03/3454-6538. No credit cards. Subway: Namboku and Oedo subway lines, Azabu-Juban Station (Exit 1)

Brown Rice Café. Tucked inside a Neal's Yard Remedies store, this café has just 10 tables and closes by 9 PM, but if you're shopping in Harajuku, it's a great place to stop for a tempeh burger or stuffed tofu pouch. In good weather, try the outdoor patio.[. 5-1-17 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku. 03/5778-5416. www.brown.co.jp. No credit cards. Subway: Ginza and Hanzo-mon subway lines, Omotesando Station (Exit A1)

Pure Café. Though this airy vegan café's menu is limited, the nutritious, organic fare never disappoints. Try the samosas, veggie burgers, or wholesome soups. Pure Café, which is a stone's throw from the upscale fashion hub of Omotesando, serves breakfast.[. 5-5-21 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. 03/5466-2611. No credit cards. Subway: Ginza and Hanzo-mon subway lines, Omotesando Station (Exit B3)

Café 8. A short walk from the trendy neighborhood of Naka-Meguro, this cute café serves an inventive fusion of Eastern and Western cuisines. The menu changes often, but might include spring rolls, nutritious curries and soups, or couscous salads.[. 3-17-7 Aobadai, Meguro-ku. 03/5458-5262. AE, DC, MC, V. Subway: Denentoshi subway and private rail lines, Ikejiri-Ohashi Station

If you plan on staying in town long term, check out Alishan (www.alishan-organic-center.com), a vegetarian mail-order specialist that delivers local and imported flesh-free food.