Yuki

Yuki Review

Carp dishes—yes, carp—and delectable mountain vegetables maintain Yuki's highly venerated reputation. They have ayu, or river smelt, and other things, but for only ¥2,800 you can get the Tsuwano teishoku, a gourmet carp course that offers a smattering of everything a fat and happy carp can become: there's chewy carp sashimi (with a wonderful lemony-mustard-thyme dipping sauce); tender deep-fried carp; carp steeped so long in soy sauce, sake, and brown sugar that it is dense and even slightly dry but very delicious; and carp boiled in a tangy miso soup until it's almost flaky. This is bona-fide stamina food, and tastes way better than you might think—these are not like the carp you and your uncles pulled out of those old muddy ponds! The dining room is chock-full of old farm and country-life implements, and there's even a stream burbling at your feet. Come early, as they close at around 7 pm, and after 3 early dinner is served by reservation only.