The Western Gulf

South of Bangkok lies the Western Gulf coast, hundreds of miles of shoreline where resort towns are the exception rather than the rule. Most towns along the gulf are either sleepy fishing villages or culturally and historically significant towns, such as Surat Thani. Some touristy areas have grown up out of the smaller villages, but they are considerably less developed than some of their counterparts in the other coastal areas. Thus, the allure of the Western Gulf is its charming towns, spectacular beaches, and developed–but not overgrown–tourist destinations.

About three hours south of Bangkok are the laid-back beaches of Cha-am and Hua Hin. Popular with families and weekend warriors escaping from the bustling capital, these nearby towns offer visitors quiet beaches and lots of great seafood restaurants. Bangkokians have traveled to Hua Hin since the 1920s, when King Rama VII built a palace here. Where royalty goes, high society inevitably follows, but despite the attention the city received, Hua Hin was spared the pitfalls of rapid development thanks to Pattaya's explosion onto the tourism scene. The Eastern Gulf city received most of the development dollars, as well as most of the woes of overdevelopment, while Hua Hin retained its tranquil beauty.

Another 483 km (300 mi) south is Surat Thani, the former capital of an ancient Siamese kingdom. As the center of its own civilization, Surat Thani developed its own artistic and architectural style. In modern times it has remained an important commercial and historic Thai city, and the province is home to one of the most pristine tropical forests in Thailand, Khao Sok National Park. However, most travelers know Surat Thani only as a departure point for the islands off its coast, primarily Koh Samui.

Koh Samui is the most popular tourist destination on the Western Gulf coast, which isn't surprising, considering Samui's gorgeous beaches, perfect weather, and sparkling blue water. Samui has been developed quite rapidly since the mid 1990s, but there's still a good variety of experiences to choose from. Here, you can find beaches in all stages of development. If you can't find what you want on Samui, there are boats departing regularly to Koh Phangan, a more natural island that draws backpackers, new-age types, and hippies, and to Koh Tao, a hot spot for scuba divers.