This upscale bistro treads a very fine line between mannered elegance and decadence. A sleek marble bar and modishly ravaged walls contribute to the sense that you've stepped into a scene from La Dolce Vita. Happily, the restaurant is as serious about its food as its sense of style. Crisply roasted duck is now a local legend, char-grilled baby squid is a sheer delight, and the pasta is always al dente. If the amazingly delicate lobster omelet is on the menu, do yourself a favor and order it.
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