Wellington and the Wairarapa

Wellington and the Wairarapa Travel Guide

More and more people are finding their way to Wellington, New Zealand's capital, and not merely because it's the sailing point for the ferries heading south. Arguably the country's most cosmopolitan metropolis, this charming city has gained a justifiable reputation for fostering the arts. Its world-class Te Papa Tongarewa-Museum of New Zealand is a don't-miss attraction, and the burgeoning film industry -- led, of course, by the Lord of the Rings extravaganzas -- has injected new life into the local arts scene. Ardent film fans can still visit the many LOTR sites around the city, but everyone is benefiting from the lively café scene and the rapidly expanding restaurant culture. Attractive and compact enough to be explored easily on foot, New Zealand's capital is a booming destination.

The city of Wellington nestles between the sea and the Tararua ranges, which tower almost 3,000 feet. Colored roofs cascade down the steep hillsides, creating a vibrant collage against a spectacular green backdrop. An old brick monastery peers down on a jigsaw of masts and sails in the marina; alongside the marina is the impressive Te Papa museum. Modern high-rise buildings gaze over Port Nicholson, surely one of the finest natural anchorages in the world. Known to local Maori as The Great Harbor of Tara, its two massive arms form the "jaws of the fish of Maui" from Maori legend. The interisland and east-west ferries churn patterns on the green water, while sea birds preen and survey the scene. On the waterfront, the Westpac Trust Stadium, the place for rugby matches and rock concerts, dominates the skyline.

Sometimes referred to as "the windy city," Wellington has been the seat of government since 1865. The Parliamentary enclave with its distinctive "Beehive" building stands close by a lively city center. Civic Square is the heart of town. Lambton Quay is part of a waterfront constructed on land reclaimed from the waters of Port Nicholson and, with Willis Street and Cuba Street, forms a bustling shopping area. Courtenay Place is the center of the entertainment district. Thorndon, the oldest part of the city -- notable for its many historic wooden houses -- lies just north of the Parliamentary district. At the southern end of the harbor, Norfolk pines line the broad sweep of Oriental Bay, a suburb with a small beach and a wide promenade, backed by a clutch of fine art deco buildings and some of the most expensive real estate in the city.

Wellington and the adjacent Hutt Valley are the southern gateway to the Wairarapa, a region whose name has recently become synonymous with wine. Head out over the hills to meander along the ruler-straight highways or quiet byways from vineyard to vineyard for a day -- or two or three -- of wine-tasting and first-class dining. Even if wine isn't your thing, the Wairarapa is worth an excursion for its gardens, fishing, walks, and even hot-air ballooning. Head for the coast here, too, where waves crash against craggy, windswept beaches, and you can gaze in silent awe at the dramatic sunsets.

Photo: Ian Trafford/Tourism New Zealand